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HIGHLIGHTS

This is the south at its greenest. Rain rears grasses and temperate rainforest into

a palette of emerald, olive, lime and sage. This lush, mud-spattered backdrop

sets the stage for the star attractions: the undulating hills, craggy peaks and

snowcapped volcanoes.

Water, taking the form of huge glacial lakes, hot springs and clear streams,

is another defining feature. And where theres water, there is life. In the Lakes

District, hikers will find the greatest diversity of plants and animals found

anywhere in Patagonia. Even if you travel to the end of the continent, it is more

likely that in these dense forests youll spot a miniature pudu (deer), marvel over

an ancient alerce (one of the worlds oldest trees) or trace the shape of a fresh

puma track.From volcanic plateaus to wild mountain passes theres a diversity of landscapes

that makes this area a real delight to explore. Trekkers may be drawn to the

well-structured refugio treks around Bariloche or the wilder, overgrown trails

on the Chilean side. Given the ready accessibility of this region, its not hard to

understand why the Lakes District has become the premier trekking region of

Chile and Argentina.

Lakes District

Getting high on the craggy Nahuel Huapi Traverse(p103)

Crunching over scoria dunes amidst geysers and bubbling mud pools on the Baos de Caulletrek (p89)

A remote farmland trek to a thermal soaking in the hardwood tubs at Termas de Callao(p97)

Summiting the snow-covered Volcn Lann(p81) for a gaping Lakes District panorama

Worshipping the natural cathedral of alerces on the trek to Laguna Fra(p118)

HIGHLIGHTS

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GATEWAYSSee Bariloche (p124), Osorno (p126),Puerto Montt (p127).

PARQUENACIONAL LANNA skyscraper over the Andean wilderness, thesnowcapped cone of Volcn Lann (3776m)is the centerpiece of Parque Nacional Lann,a 3790-sq-km park that stretches 150kmfrom Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi in thesouth to Lago orquinco in the north. The

volcano effectively splits the park into north-ern and southern zones.

The northern zone theoretically inthe Araucana covers about one-thirdof the parks area. It centers around theelongated, fjord-like Lago Quilln. To thesouth, a much larger and broader zoneforms a band of rugged mountains dis-persed with the major glacial lakes of LagoHuechulafqun, Lago Lolog and Lago

Lcar splayed eastward almost as far asthe Patagonian steppes.

Until the late 19th century this vast areaof the park was inhabited by the Pehuenchepeople. The lifestyle of this large Mapuchetribe was integrally linked with the annualharvest of nuts from the regions extensivemontane forests of coniferous araucariatrees. The Mapuche reservations of Cur-ruhuinca and Rucachoroi are located within

the park, fittingly called reducciones.

ENVIRONMENTArgentinas richest southern beech forestsgrow in the park. The evergreen coige(speltcoihue in Argentina), is present mainly atthe lowest elevations. Two deciduous speciesof southern beech dominate these subalpineforests: rauland roble (orpelln). Raulhaslong leathery, almost oval-shaped leaves,

while its close relative roble has oaklikeleaves with deep serrations.The alpine zone (roughly above 1000m)

features two other deciduous southernbeech species, irre(spelt ire in Argentina)and lenga. The two trees are easily distin-guishable: lengaleaves have rounded doublenotches, while those of the irrehave irregu-larly crinkled edges. Lengagrows right up tothe tree line in low, weather-beaten scrub. In

fall the mountainsides are aflame with coloras these forests turn golden red.

Various parasitic plants attack the south-ern beech. Common parasites are the liga,native mistletoes, the quintral, whose rednectar-filled flowers attract hummingbirds,and the llao-llao, a fungus that deforms thewood into a large, knotted growth on whichround spongy balls form.

Extensive forests of umbrellalike arau-caria cloak the northern zone of ParqueNacional Lann. Particularly in the parkssouthern zone, forests of Cordilleran cy-press, with occasional stands of maitn (anative willowlike species), spread across theless watered Andean foothills.

Numerous species of native wildflowerscan be identified. The bright spots of yellowscattered around the floor of montane forestscould be the delicate violeta amarilla, or per-haps the yellow topa topa, which resembles alarge pea flower. Two pretty white species arethe centella, a native anemone, and the cuyeeldorado, an oxalis species that has long beena favorite of gardeners in the British Isles.

Parque Nacional Lann is one of the lasthabitats of the tunduco, an extremely rarespecies of native rat. A member of an ancientrodent family (the so-called octodontids),the tunducotypically inhabits quilaand coli-huethickets, feeding on the roots and shoots.Other mammals found in the park includethe monito del monte(or mouse oopossum),pudu, coipo, viscacha and the rare Andeandeer known as the huemul. These animals

are variously preyed on by the puma, thePatagonian red fox, the huillnand huia.

There are many small ground-dwellingbirds, including the chucao, the huet-huetand the churrn, or Andean tapaculo, whichall find shelter in bamboo thickets, forestunderbrush or alpine heathland. Unmistak-able because of its absurdly long tail aboutdouble the length of the birds body is DesMurs wiretail, or colilarga.

CLIMATEParque Nacional Lann has a continentalclimate ranging from subalpine to alpine,with a relatively low proportion of rainfalloutside the spring-to-fall period. Summersare warm to hot, particularly in the parksnorthern (Araucana) sector, while win-ters are crisp and white, particularly on thehigher ranges. The areas immediately east

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40

17

259

231

To Temuco

O C E A N

P A C I F I CReloncav

Seno

CorcovadoGolfo

Golfo de Ancud

Alerce Costero

Monumento Natural

LlanquihueNacionalReserva

(Parque Pumalin)

PumalnParque

TantaucoParque

AndinoAlerce

NacionalParque

(Sector Anay)

(Sector Chepu)Lago Puelo

Parque Nacional

Nahuel HuapiParque Nacional

Parque

Los AlercesParque Nacional

Parque

El Amarillo

Parque Pumaln

HornopirnNacional

ChiloNacionalParque

Parque

ChiloNacional

Vicente Prez Rosales

Parque Nacional

PuyehueParque Nacional

LannNacional

(1861m)VolcanicoCerro

CenizasVolcn

Vulcn

Chaitn

Volcn

(2770m)Cerro Cnico

(2153m)Nahuel Pan

Cerro

(2300m)Corcovado

Volcn

(2404m)Michinmahuida

Volcn

(2492m)Cerro Tres Picos

Sur (2268m)Cerro Aguja

(2276m)la TorreCerro de

(1572m)Volcn Hornopirn

(2652m)Volcn Osorno

(2405m)Cerro Catedral

Monte Tronador(3554m)

Puntiagudo (2490m)

(1990m)CasablancaVolcn

(2236m)Volcn Puyehue

Lipinza (1740m)Cerros de

Volcn

(2415m)Choshuenco

(3776m)Volcn Lann

Lago

CurruhuLago

GrisLago

Puelo

Ro

QueiLago

YelchoLago

EspolnLago

Lago Rosario

Lago Kruger

Amutui QuimeiLago

FutalaufquenLago

MenndezLago

Reihue

CholilaLago

AbascalLago

EpuynLago

PueloLago

AzulLago

Tagua TaguaLago

ChaiguataLago

ChaiguacoLago

TepuhuecoLago

Tarahuin

Lago

HuillincoLago

TrinidadLago

ChapoLago

MartnLago

MascardiLago

Los SantosLago Todos

Puyehue

CorrentosoLago

HuapiNahuel

Lago

ConstanciaLago

RupancoLago

Lago

Falkner

Lago

TrafulLago

MeliquinaLago

HuishueLago

MaihueLagoRanco

Lago Lago Lcar

Lago LologPirehueicoLago

HuechulafqunLago

RiihueLago

PanguipulliLago

LlanquihueLago

de ChiloIsla Grande

SamorPaso

Paso de

(1188m)Menndez

CochamoPaso

(1123m)Carirrie

Paso

(659m)Paso HuahumPirehueico

PuelcheCaleta

Puerto

FuyPuerto

LargoFiordo

Puelo

ChaitnEsquel

BolsnEl

Lenca

Futaleuf

GonzaloCaleta

Leptep

Pichanco

Hornopirn

La ArenaCaleta

Quelln

Cucao

Puchabrn

Castro

Chepu

Ancud Chacao

Pargua

Peulla

CorrentosoRaln

Petrohu

Ensenada

MonttPuerto

Puerto Varas

Llao LlaoBlestPuerto

FrasPuerto

Villa Mascardi

Bariloche

HuapiNahuel

El IsloteEl Poncho

Antillanca

CalientesAguas

OctayPuerto

Llanquihue

Frutillar

Los Muermos

PurranqueNegro

Ro

Osorno

de los AndesSan Martn

los AndesJunn de

Choshuenco

Enco

Riihue

Futrono

Riinahue

BuenoRo

Trumao

La Unin

Maicolpu

Baha Mansa

Hueicolla

Panguipulli

Los LagosCorral

NieblaValdivia

C H I L E

A R G E N T I N A

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

RN

RP

RN

RN

RP

RN

RN

RP

RPRN

RN

RP

RP

RP

40

15

258

258

80

237

231

65

63234

234

62

60

23

7

7

225

215

5

5

5

5

5

207

205

p105

p119p113

p98

p86p82

p91

7 Laguna Fra

1 Ascent of Volcn Lann2 Termas de Lahuen Co to La Unin3 Baos de Caulle & Pampa Frutilla4 Termas de Callao5 Nahuel Huapi Traverse6 Paso de las Nubes

LAKES DISTRICT MAPS

Lakes District

1:4,000,000

0 50 km0 30 miles

80 LAKES DISTRICT Climate

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Towering over the northern Lakes Dis-trict, Volcn Lann rises from a base plainof around 1100m to a height of 3776m.Viewed from any other direction than theeast, Volcn Lanns thick cap of heavilycrevassed glacial ice makes it look almostimpossible to climb, but up its eastern sideis a strenuous, though straightforward as-cent route. In fact, Lann is probably thehighest summit in Patagonia safely attain-able without ropes.

Lanns Mapuche name means DeadRock, as the Mapuche people believed thatanyone who climbed the mountain wouldbe killed by evil spirits (although, today,freezing winds and glacier crevasses aregenerally a greater danger).

PLANNINGWhen to TrekAlthough winter ascents of Volcn Lannare not unheard of, the summit is normallytackled between November and February.All climbers must carry an ice axe andcrampons. Ascents early in the season are

generally easier because the remainingsnowpack provides a more stable surfacethan the often loose volcanic earth under-neath. An early start is imperative, sinceafter midday the snow often becomes softand slushy, making the going tiring uphilland hazardous on the descent.

The volcanos exposed, steep slopes aredefinitely no place for tents, so all trekkersmust stay at one of the three unstaffed refu-

gioson Lann, which are all roughly halfwayup the mountain.

The refugios provide good, basic shelter free of charge but it is essential to carryyour own means of cooking and a warmsleeping bag. The ascent of Volcn Lann isa popular excursion, and in the peak holi-day season (January to mid-February) thenumber of climbers on the mountain mayexceed the huts comfortable capacity.

With good weather, very experiencedclimbers in top shape may make the climbin one day with day packs.

What to BringIt is now mandatory for all trekkers to carryan ice axe and crampons, waterproof jacket,mountain sunglasses, sleeping bag, stove,sturdy boots (suitable for snowy condi-tions), headlamp and a medical kit.

Ascent of Volcn Lann LAKES DISTRICT 81

and north of Volcn Lann lie in a markedrain shadow created by the volcanic rangeextending east from Volcn Villarrica. Froman annual maximum rainfall of 4500mm onthe snowy upper slopes of Volcn Lann,precipitation levels drop away sharply to wellunder 1000mm near the dry plains border-ing the eastern fringes of the park. Towardsthe south, in the moist temperate forests ofthe parks mountainous western sectors, an-nual precipitation is around 2500mm. Thetemperature averages 20C in summer and4C in winter.

PLANNINGThe APN Intendencia in San Martn de losAndes (p128) can give up-to-date adviceand information (including weather fore-casts) on trekking and climbing.

An entry fee of AR$9 applies but ispayable only when you enter via an APNportada (entrance gate). Camping is notpermitted outside organized campsites andestablished en route campsites.

Maps & BooksA 1:200,000 trekking map titled ParqueNacional Lann and published by Sendas

y Bosques (www.sendasybosques.com.ar)covers the entire park. It shows most officialtrails and, although its scale is small forcomfortable navigation, it is the only widelyavailable quality map. Sendas y Bosquesalso publishes Parques Nacionales Lann yNahuel Huapi, a Spanish-language trekking

guidebook to the Argentine Araucana thatincludes some information in English.

ACCESS TOWNSSee San Martn de los Andes (p128) andJunn de los Andes (p125).

Duration 3 days

Distance 25kmDifficulty demandingStart/Finish Guardera TromenNearest Towns Junn de los Andes SanMartn de los Andes

Transport (international) bus

SummaryA climb to the top of a majesticvolcanic cone that gives a tremendous pano-

rama of the Lakes District and Araucana.

ASCENT OF VOLCN LANN

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1000

1250

1000

1250

1500

1750

2000

2250

2500

2750

3000

3250

3500

3250

3000

2750

2500

2250

2000

1750

Puerto Canoa

(104km)de los AndesSan Martn

(63km);

(90km)

To Pucn

To Lago Huechulafqun;

de los AndesTo Junn

RefugioRIM-26

TromenGuardera

Nacional

Gendarmera

CAJARefugio

BIM-6

Refugio

L A N N

N A C I O N A LP A R Q U E

(2110m)

(3776m)LannVolcn

NegroCerro

2143m

2018m

1546m

1358m

1417m

1142m

1295m

2051m

1338m

1373m

1336m

MalleoEnsenada de

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e

d

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ed

a

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A R G E N T I N A

C H I L E

2&3DAYSSTART

RouteAlternative

RouteAlternative

START/FINISH

winter 2001by avalanche in

Refugio destroyed

Route OnlyMountaineering

Ascent of Volcn Lann

1:95,000

0 2 km0 1 mile

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You can hire an ice axe and crampons(each around AR$30 per day) in San Martnor, less reliably, in Junn. Trekking poles canbe useful for balance. Climbing ropes areof little use and not required, but wearinggaiters to protect your shins and keep rocksand snow out of your boots is advisable.Charting your route with a compass andaltimeter or GPS unit can be a tremendousadvantage if visibility becomes poor uponthe return.

MapsThe best map available is the Chilean IGM1:50,000 map, Paimn(Section G, No 114).This map provides good topographical in-formation on Volcn Lann, but does notshow huts, ascent routes or the correct posi-tion of glaciers. JLM Mapas 1:250,000 map,Pucn San Martn de los Andes (No 07),includes an inset scaled at 1:65,000 that ac-curately shows the route and refugios.

Permits & RegulationsAll parties must receive authorization to

climb the volcano from the guardaparque(national-park ranger) at the GuarderaTromen. Trekkers without proper ice-climbing gear (see What to Bring, above)will not be permitted to make the ascent.Be sure to inform the ranger upon yourreturn.

Camping is not permitted anywhere onor around the base of Volcn Lann apartfrom at the Guardera Tromen and the

campsite at the southern shore of LagoTromen. For details on accommodation inthis area, see p126.

GuidesSee under Information for San Martn delos Andes (p128).

GETTING TO/FROM THE TREKThis trek begins and ends at GuarderaTromen. A number of bus companies, in-cluding Empresa San Martn, Igi-Llaima andJAC, run buses almost daily to/from Temucoand Bariloche, San Martn or Zapala.

In January and February, there may bepublic transportation to Tromen, whichwas unavailable at the time of research,check with Junns tourism office. Other-wise, Julio Villanueva (%02972-491375)in Junn runs shuttles to Tromen (four pas-sengers one-way AR$140).

After clearing customs, trekkers arriv-ing directly from Chile can disembark atTromen. It might be worth reserving a seatwith the bus company for the trip back out,even if you have to pay a bit extra, to ensurean onward seat when you return.

Trekkers intending to cross the borderafter the climb should note that they arenot normally permitted to board a Chile-bound bus in Tromen unless their namesare on the official passenger list. Its impor-tant that you have a ticket to Chile with

a definite arrangement to join that bus before you get to Tromen; this can beorganized in San Martn de los Andes orJunn de los Andes. The road is remote andcarries only light traffic, so hitching is anunreliable transport option and we dontrecommend it as a rule.

THE TREKDay 1: Guardera Tromen to

Refugio CAJA45 hours, 7km, 1518m ascentAs there is unlikely to be any running waterfor most of todays sweaty climb, fill up atthe campsite when you sign in at GuarderaTromen (1142m). Pick up the trail behindthe Gendarmera Nacional building and

WARNINGThe trek involves a total ascent of almost 2700m (from around 1100m to 3776m) over looseearth and/or snow slopes. Trekkers should be physically fit, carry basic ice-climbing gear (see

What to Bring, p81) and have some experience in mountainous terrain. Although the ascent

route itself (apart from the summit) is not exposed to the worst of the westerlies, strong, freez-

ing winds can pick up at any time and with little warning. Attempt the summit only in perfect

weather. As you climb, watch for changing conditions and be prepared to descend if conditions

deteriorate. Lann is high enough to cause altitude sickness (p258), so be alert to symptoms in

yourself and your companions. Although the route does not cross glaciers, there are dangerous,

heavily crevassed glaciers near the summit keep to the route.

Ascent of Volcn Lann LAKES DISTRICT 83

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follow this roughly southwest through at-tractive lenga forest, then across a plain of

volcanic sand to cross the Arroyo Turbioafter 30 to 45 minutes. (Early in the daythis stream may carry little or no water, butLanns melting nvs and glaciers normallyproduce a steady flow by late afternoon.)

You will notice the Espina de Pescado,a long, lateral moraine ridge that snakesaround to the right above the stream. Climbthis spine, following the narrow ridgetopas it steepens and curves slightly rightwardpast an old secondary crater on the left toreach the Sendero de las Mulas turn-offgoing off to the right (see Alternative Route,p84), one to 1 hours from the ArroyoTurbio.

Keep to the craggy ridge line, whereunstable rock calls for careful footwork,minor detours are necessary to negoti-ate small outcrops. The route climbs upalongside a long, broken-up glacier downto your left to arrive at the red- and or-ange-painted Refugio RIM-26, two to 2hours on. Built at 2450m along the Espina

de Pescado route by the Regimiento de In-fanteria de Montaa, the refugiois on a flatrazed by a receding glacier. It has capacityfor up to 10 people. Afternoon meltwatercan be collected from the glacier, but takecare not to get too close to where the icefalls away abruptly. Tread cautiously ondirt-covered ice, and save enough waterfor the next day.

Just above the refugio, pick up a vague

trail leading up beside the glacier, followingthis up to where the rock rib disappears.The route continues up for 100m, beforeleaving the ridge line and heading rightthrough an area of broken-up rock rub-ble to reach the much more rustic RefugioCAJAafter 25 to 35 minutes. The rustic tin-roofed hut stands at 2660m on a low, flatridge. Built and owned by the Club Andinode Junn de los Andes, this smaller civilian

refugio has space for up to eight people.Collect water from a small nv just aroundto the west.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: VIA SENDERO DELAS MULAS57 hours, 9km, 1518m ascentThe Sendero de las Mulas (litreally muletrack) is a longer but less strenuous routethat follows a trail proper (rather than the

much steeper Espina de Pescado). It is abetter option for slower or less fit trekkers.

From the turn-off, the trail turns awaywestward, winding and switchbacking uprepeatedly through the scoria to finallyreach Refugio BIM-6 after two to threehours. This comfortable refugio (built bythe Batallon de Ingenieros de Montaa)is situated at 2350m and sleeps up to 15people. The path continues its serpentinecourse, rising around slightly leftward toarrive at Refugio CAJAafter a further oneto 1 hours.

Day 2: Refugio CAJA Return (viaSummit of Volcan Lann)711 hours, 11km, 1116m ascent/descentWhen not snowbound, this final sectionclimbs over extremely unstable scoriaslopes. The steep and loose earth makes afrustratingly unstable trekking surface, andyou need to step very carefully to avoid slip-ping. Allow yourself plenty of time and donot try for the summit unless the weather isgood. There is no running water higher up,

so carry plenty (at least a litre per person).Head up the initially gentle slope over

large patches of snow, passing between thetwo larger permanent snowfields (about400m over from the glacier), where thegradient begins to steepen. As the groundbecomes looser, often giving way as you step,keep an eye out for marker stakes and paintsplashes on rocks. Layers of volcanic rockhave weathered unevenly to produce very

low ridges that lead up the slope. These aremuch more stable and, if winds are not toostrong, they may make for easier climbing.

Although strenuous, the route is nowstraightforward. In the last stages beforeyou reach the summit, a scramble over rockledges leads up past the impressive seracsof a glacier that descends westward. Followa few rock cairns left on to the small nvleading up to the summit of Volcn Lann,

which atypically for a volcano is nottopped with a wide caldera. The relativelysmall summit is capped by glacial ice whichfalls away sharply on the south side. Youshould be extremely careful here. Small cre-

vasses sometimes open up.Llaima, Villarrica, Tronador and many

major peaks of the Lakes District and Arau-cana regions are visible from the summitof Lann. Directly north and south are the

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large lakes Tromen and Huechulafqun,and a number of beautiful smaller lakes lieon the northwestern slopes of the volcano.In clear conditions you might even be ableto make out Chiles Pacific coast far to thewest.

Retrace your way back to RefugioCAJA.

Day 3: Refugio CAJA ToGuardera Tromen47 hours, 7km, 1518m descentRetrace your steps as on Day 1. Fit and fasttrekkers often prefer to descend the wholeway from the summit to Guardera Tromenon their long second day. Despite theslopes steepness, the loose volcanic earthbreaks your fall. This often makes the goingeasier. If the sustained descents are painfulfor your knees, opt for the Sendero de lasMulas route.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: PUERTO CANOA912 hours, 17km, 2850m descentExperienced climbers can opt for an alterna-

tive and more difficult descent route leadingsoutheast to the ruins of a refugio. At anelevation of 2400m, it was destroyed by anavalanche in the winter of 2001. From there,a path goes on southward down the ArroyoRuc Leufu to Puerto Canoa, near La Uninon Lago Huechulafqun. Once down, besure to report back to the Guardera Tromenor the Guardera Puerto Canoa.

This A-to-B style destination route leadsfrom the Termas de Lahuen Co along aban-doned roads (last used in the 1960s), over

abandoned pastures and past an old sawmillto the last remaining farmlets on the south-ern shore of Lago Paimn. Trekkers willsee the gradual regeneration of vegetationcleared by settlers in the early decades of thelast century. Introduced wild boar and reddeer (known to North Americans as elk) areabundant along this route but, being waryof humans, they are seldom seen.

PLANNINGWhen to TrekThis relatively low-level trek is normallypassable from mid-November until mid-May, although seasonal weather conditionsmay compromise road access to the trail-heads (especially to Termas de Lahuen Co).

MapsThe best available topographical map is theChilean IGM 1:50,000 map Paimn(SectionG, No 114), which does not show the routeand is not available locally. The ArgentineIGM 1:100,000 map, also titled Paimn(Neuqun, No 3972-34), is extremely out

of date but still shows the route fairly ac-curately. The Sendas y Bosques 1:200,000Parque Nacional Lannmap also covers thetrek and is sold locally.

Permits & RegulationsPermits are not necessary, but all trekkersshould register with the appropriate APNoffice (either in San Martn or at GuarderaCarilafquen). Camping is permitted only at

the park-authorised Camping Libre Aila onLago Paimn.

ACCESS TOWNSSee San Martn de los Andes (p128) andJunn de los Andes (p125).

GETTING TO/FROM THE TREKTermas de Lahuen (start)The trek begins at Termas de Lahuen Co.

These remote hot springs (once known asthe Baos de Epulafquen) lie at 930m, justoff Ruta Provincial 62, 350m past (ie westof) the APNs Guardera Carilafquen. Thenow privately run Lahuen Co Spa Termalde Montana(www.lahuenco.com) is upscalebut expensive and not particularly friendly.Camping is not allowed in the area.

Termas de Lahuen Co is an 80km, 2-hour drive northeast from San Martn de

Duration 2 daysDistance 26kmDifficulty easyStart Termas de Lahuen CoFinish La UninNearest Towns San Martn de los AndesJunn de los Andes

Transport guided tour and/or taxiSummary An uncomplicated trek fromremote hot springs to the scenic shores of

Lago Paimn under the spectacular cone of

Volcn Lann.

TERMAS DE LAHUEN CO TOLA UNIN

Termas de Lahuen Co to La Unin LAKES DISTRICT 85

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los Andes (p128) via Ruta Provincial 62(which continues 7km over Paso Carirrieinto Chile). The last 20km of road is nar-row and sometimes rough, but passable fornon-4WD vehicles except in wet or snowyconditions.

Termas de Lahuen Co is not accessibleby public transport, but throughout the

summer season (from mid-December untilmid-March) travel agencies in San Martnde los Andes run organized tours to boththe Termas and to the eastern end of LagoPaimn (which make a stop at the chapel inLa Unin, where the trek ends). Most agen-cies are quite happy to drop off trekkers byarrangement, but their normal practice isusually to charge trekkers the full price foreach tour.

La Unin (finish)The trek ends at the chapel in La Unin. LaUnin is the name given to the picturesquenarrows where Lago Paimn drains intoLago Huechulafqun, at the western end ofRuta Provincial 61.

Transporte Castelli (%02972-491557)runs buses between La Unin and Junin

de los Andes (AR$16), leaving the APNguarderia at 10.15am, 3pm and 7.45pm.La Unin-bound buses leave Junin de losAndes at 8am, 12.45pm and 5.30pm.

THE TREKDay 1: Termas de Lahuen Co toCamping Aila45 hours, 16km, 350m ascent/descentFrom the Termas, follow the road across

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the Ro Oconiuphill through lush, tall rainforest to where the Senda Paimn(GPS 3947.821 S, 71 39.222 W) departs on yourright after one to 1 hours. Quite over-grown, the path drops directly northeastto ford the very smallArroyo Burriquete,

then continues smoothly downvalley (oftenon an old road) to recross the stream (via ahuge fallen tree trunk) after 45 minutes toone hour. Views are few apart from glimpsesof the bald ridgetops around Cerro Huecuifaup to your right, but trekking is pleasantthrough mixed stands of irre, araucaria,lengaor raulwith a largely dead quilaunderstorey (see boxed text).

Continue on through the forest to reach

Pampa Grande cleared farmland that isgradually regenerating. Guided by occa-sional blue or yellow markings where stocktrails confuse the route, head along the right(eastern) side of these scrubby meadows toencounter a rusted old locomotive (onceused to power a local sawmill) near thesoutheastern corner of Lago Paimn, one to1 hours from the second stream crossing.

The track climbs rightward, passing

below a square of living poplars (the formersite of a farmhouse) before it begins anundulating traverse along Lago Paimnssoutheastern side, where pink mutisiasandorange amancaysgrow.

Do not descend at a small sloping shelfdotted with calafateand rose bushes (fromwhere there are the first clear views acrossthe lake to Cerro Caquituco and aheadto the stunning glacier-capped southwest

face of Volcn Lann), but contour directlyalong the slope, eventually reaching an-other pampa (about an hour from the oldlocomotive) that features a lone araucaria.Continue straight another 10 minutes untilyou see a sign marked camping pointing

left toward the lake.You can then either short-cut down left

across cattle pastures (in places infested bypega-pega, whose annoying prickly seedsattach to clothing) to reach Camping Ailaon the lake shore, 1 to 1 hours from theold locomotive, or continue a short way onto Arroyo Rimecoand follow the streamsleft (west) bank down, which takes five to10 minutes longer.

The idyllic campsite (AR$5) sits underaraucarias beside a tiny beach, fromwhere you can admire Volcn Lanns redalpenglow.

Day 2: Camping Aila to La Unin22 hours, 10km, 255m ascent/descentFollow a trail up the stream past a shortturn-off that crosses to the house of DonAila, whose family established this small

farm in the 1940s, before beginning asteeper southeastward ascent. The gradienteases as you head through a series of prettytussock-grass meadows among low irrestocross the now tiny Arroyo Rimeco. Climbgently across probably without notic-ing it the broad, flat, forested saddle ofPortezuelo Rimeco (around 1135m), oneto 1 hours from the lake shore. Virtuallythe only views around here are of black

THE QUILA CYCLENumerous species of native bamboo of the Chusquea genus grow in the moist, temperate Valdiv-

ian rainforests of Patagonia. Even for botanists, these species are difficult to differentiate, although

most are commonly known by the Mapuche name of quila. An extremely vigorous and aggressive

plant, quila often smothers smaller trees as it spreads out to monopolize sunnier sites in the forest.

Like bamboo world-over, quila flowers only at the end of its reproductive cycle. In a given

area, up to 90% of the quila may be on the same cycle approximately 25 years for most

species which results in big simultaneous blooms. These events are a party for mice and rats,

which thrive from gorging on this nutritious fruit, causing rodent population booms. Once their

food source is exhausted, the rodents leave the forest for surrounding farms and villages. Later,

dry canes present a fire hazard that lasts for many years.

Quila can barely survive in a mature, closed rainforest because too little sunlight reaches the

ground, yet its regrowth is particularly vigorous after fires, which destroy the shade of the forest

canopy and release nutrients. This has led some botanists to theorise that quila may actually

have evolved its die-back cycle as a way of `provoking fires, in order to create new openings in

the forest.

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Magellanic woodpeckers tapping about thehighland lenga forest (where the quilaun-derstorey has also largely died back).

The path dips gradually through maturestands of araucarias, where wild pigs ploughup the ground as they forage for piones,then traverses the valleys right (southern)slope well above the rushing Arroyo Ecufu,opposite Cerro Huemules. Descend moresteeply through coige forest into littlemeadows (frequented by mountain cara-caras spying small prey) under the ruggedridges of Cerro Cantala. Views emerge ofthe southern face of Volcn Lann. Finally,the route switchbacks down to arrive at a

farmhouse on the west side of La Unin,1 to 1 hours from Portezuelo Rimeco.

From here, a worthwhile 18km, four- tofive-hour side trip leads south around theshore of Lago Huechulafqun to Crter delEpulafquen, a tiny extinct volcano.

Near the farmhouse on Lago Paimnswestern shore is the rustic but popularCamping Ecufu (camping per personAR$10), without facilities. The owners run

the Balsa La Union ferry, and will row youacross the 50m-wide narrow for AR$8 perperson, including pack.

On the eastern shore of La Unin, youcan summon the ferry by ringing themakeshift gong beside the picnic area,about 200m south of a rather incongruousAustrian-style chapel and GendarmeraNacional post. Near here, a road turn-offgoes 3km north past Restaurante Mawiz-

ache, serving quality meals, and CampingEl Rincn (camping per person AR$16),which has no facilities, to Camping PiedraMala (camping per person AR$16) on ablack-sand beach.

At nearby Puerto Canoa is an APNguardera and the Hostera Refugio Pes-cador (%02972-491132; r with full boardAR$315 per person).

PARQUENACIONALPUYEHUEVolcn Puyehue (2236m) blew its top theday after southern Chiles major earth-quake in 1960, turning a large chunk

of dense, humid evergreen forest into astark landscape of sand dunes and lavarivers. Situated to the east of the Chil-ean provincial city of Osorno, ParqueNacional Puyehue (pooh-yay-way) con-sists of 1070 sq km of forested wildernessstretching from the eastern shores of LagoPuyehue and Lago Rupanco as far as theChileArgentina frontier. Its Mapuchename translates as place of the puye ,after a small native fish abundant in thefreshwater lakes and rivers of the LakesDistrict.

Volcn Puyehue and a fascinating broadvolcanic plateau stretching out to its north-west are the parks central features. The

volcano has remained dormant since the1960 eruption, and vulcanologists suspectthat the center of geothermal activity maybe shifting north to nearby Volcn Car-rn, a much younger and lower volcanothat has erupted a number of times in re-cent decades. The combination of intense

volcanic activity and high precipitationlevels gives rise to numerous hot springs,

including Chiles premier spa resort, AguasCalientes/Termas de Puyehue at the parkswestern extremity. There are also numerousother small, undeveloped thermal springsin the area.

ENVIRONMENTLuxuriant temperate rainforest the mostspecies-rich ecosystem found anywherein the Lakes District blankets the slopes

surrounding Volcn Puyehue and VolcnCasablanca. The chief botanical features ofthese so-called Valdivian forests are severalsouthern beech species, the three maosaswell as ulmoand fragrant tepa. Tineo, whichhas attractive fernlike branchlets with ser-rated opposing leaves, is also common, andthere are even examples of the coniferousalerce and Guaitecas cypress. The often

very thick forest understorey nurtures spe-

cies such as the chilco the progenitor ofcountless fuchsia cultivars grown in gar-dens throughout the world whose nectarattracts the green-backed firecrown, a tinyhummingbird.

Half a dozen or so species of the genusBaccharisgrow as small upright bushes thatproduce fluffy, pale-yellowish flowers, in-cluding the pail. Bushes of murta, whosefive-petalled, bell-shaped, pinkish-white

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flowers develop into yummy edible red ber-ries in March, are found at the edge of forestclearings.

The flowering trees and shrubs supportan abundance of insects. Two native beetlesare the beautiful, multicolored colepteroand the carnivorouspeorro, a large carabidwhose black, shell-like abdomen has a lu-minescent, reddish-green sheen. Thepeorrocrawls about tree trunks sniffing out antsand other tiny prey. Also remarkable is theneuroptera, a well-camouflaged predatoryinsect with pale-green wings that resem-ble the leaves of quila. One extraordinarybutterfly is Eroessa chilensis, a living fossilwhose evolutionary development has re-mained almost static for millions of years; itis found in close association with the thornytayu, orpalo blanco, an ancient tree speciesthat has also changed little over time.

Often seen in the park is the house wren,known locally as the chercn, which hasa yellow underbody and coffee-colored,black-striped wings and tail. Also quitecommon is the austral thrush, which mi-

grates up from the Pacific coast to spendthe summer foraging for insects, seeds andberries in the rainforests of Puyehue. It hasa brownish head and wings, a white breastand its beak and legs are yellow. The black-winged ground dove, or trtol cordillerana,lives in the forests of the montane zoneabove 600m.

The less conspicuous mammalian wild-life includes the vizcacha, monito del monte

(mouse oopossum), pudu, puma and thesmall, grey Azaras fox.

CLIMATEThe parks proximity to the high moun-tains along the continental divide producesa very wet climate, even by the standards ofthe southern Lakes District. Precipitationlevels start at around 4000mm annually inAnticura and Aguas Calientes on Puyehues

western edge, rising progressively towardsthe east. At elevations above 1000m, win-ter snows begin to accumulate after May,when skiing is possible at the alpine re-sort of Antillanca on Volcn Casablanca.By early summer (December) snow coveris mostly confined to areas above 2000m,although large wind-blown drifts remainin many places. The temperature averages14C in summer and 5C in winter.

ACCESS TOWNSee Osorno (p126).

This trek takes you into a stark, but spec-tacular landscape of dunelike ridges ofpumice and enormous black lava flows tothe northwest of Volcn Puyehue, wheresteaming fumaroles (volcanic steam vents)break through the ground in places, de-positing sulfurous crystals over the bareearth. Geysers gush out among pools of

perpetually boiling water and bubblingmud pits, and thermal springs providenaturally heated bathing high above thetree line.

PLANNINGAlthough described below as an out-and-back route, this trek can be done as acircuit via the Ruta de los Americanos oras a one-way traverse by continuing north

to Riinahue (see Alternative Finish: Rii-nahue, p93).

When to TrekThe trek can be done from December tomid-April, although this can vary some-what depending on seasonal (snow)conditions and the impact of this on accessinto the area.

MapsTwo Chilean IGM 1:50,000 maps coverthis trek: Volcn Puyehue (Section H, No27) and Riinahue(Section H, No 17), butdo not show the route of the trek. FundoEl Caulle has produced a quality 1:40,000 not 1:50,000 as it claims map based onthe IGM maps (although it does not showgrid coordinates), which is available at theEl Caulle entrance.

Duration 4 daysDistance 50kmDifficulty moderateStart/Finish AnticuraNearest Town OsornoTransport bus

Summary A marvellous trek to a thermalfield with fumaroles, geysers and undevel-

oped hot springs on a high, barren volcanic

plateau.

BAOS DE CAULLE

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Permits & RegulationsPermits are not required, but all trekkingparties should register at Conafs GuarderaAnticura before setting out.

See also Fundo El Caulle (below).

GETTING TO/FROM THE TREKAnticura (start/finish)The trek starts and finishes in Anticura.In summer, Expreso Lago Puyehue, at thecompanys terminal at the eastern end ofMercado Municipal in Osorno, runs twodaily buses to/from Anticura (CH$4500, 1hours). These leave Osorno at 10.30am and3pm, and return at 12.10pm and 4.30pm.International buses running from Osor-nos main bus terminal, via Paso Puyehueto Bariloche, will normally carry passengerstravelling only as far as Anticura (or back)if there are spare seats.

THE TREKDay 1: Anticura to Refugio ElCaulle34 hours, 10.5km, 1070m ascent

After signing in at theguardera, walk for 25to 30 minutes northwest along the highwayand across the Ro Golgol bridge to reachthe entrance gate to Fundo El Caulle(Seeboxed text, below), where trekkers mustsign in and pay an entry fee. Here, you canalso buy maps and basic supplies (includinghomemade bread and cheese).

Head along the dirt road directly pasta (left) trail turn-off (signposted Mira-dores) near the new hostera, beforeturning around to the right through thepastures past the El Caulle administra-tion building. The road passes a (right)trail turn-off (signposted Saltos del RoGolgol) to reach a trail junction imme-diately before Campamento Los Ciervos,15 to 20 minutes from the entrance gate.

There are idyllic campsites with tables andfireplaces here on grassy meadows by asmall stream.

Turn left and climb gently along arougher bulldozed track through the forestto reach a large flat clearing scattered withblackberry bushes and fringed by ulmos,20 to 25 minutes on. Follow white-tippedwooden posts past Campamento de Per-dida to briefly glimpse a gushing waterfall

in the rainforest up to the left before youcut right into the trees.

A foot track leads up steadily northeast tocross a trickling streamlet under high cliffs,continuing up across a second streamlet(the last water until the end of Day 1) afterone to 1 hours. Contour briefly arounderoded gullies before beginning a steep,strenuous and sustained ascent over slopesof unstable volcanic earth. Make a final

climb through pleasant, open lenga forestto emerge onto grassy alpine meadows, andsidle 300m ahead to arrive at Refugio ElCaulle (also called Refugio Volcn Puye-hue), 1 to 1 hours after crossing thesecond streamlet.

The refugio(GPS 40 36.904 S, 72 08.525W) stands at the tree line, just under 1400m,in a very scenic spot at the base of VolcnPuyehue. This new but very basic hut sleeps

WARNINGThe trek crosses an exposed and unveg-

etated plateau well above the tree line

where it is surprisingly easy to become

disoriented during bad weather or misty

conditions. The loose pumice is shifted

constantly by wind, rain and snow, mak-

ing the trodden path harder to follow.

Wooden stakes marking the route are

often pushed over by the elements

please firmly re-erect any fallen marker

stakes you encounter.

FUNDO EL CAULLEThe start and finish of the Baos de Caulletrek leads through Fundo El Caulle (www.elcaulle.com). A peculiarity of land owner-

ship in Chile, the area of this 270-sq-km

private property overlaps extensively with

national park territory. El Caulle now oper-

ates mainly as an ecotourism business and

runs regular guided (especially horse-rid-

ing) trips in the Puyehue area.

At the El Caulle entrance gate on Ruta215, 2km west of Anticura, trekkers pay a

fee of CH$10.000 with CH$3.000 refunded

once they have packed out their trash. As

El Caulle built and/or maintains most of

the infrastructure (including tracks, picnic

tables, signposts and a free refugio), this

payment is not unreasonable. The complex

includes a high-end restaurant.

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up to 16 people and has a wood stove (thenearby wood shed is regularly stocked byFundo El Caulle).

The campsites (with picnic tables andbenches) receive heavy usage throughoutthe summer, so please use the pit toiletprovided and light campfires only in ex-isting fireplaces. The tiny stream in thenearby gully tends to flow underground,but higher up it often stays running. Dueto the possibility of fecal contamination,avoid collecting water from anywherebelow the hut and campsites unless youcan properly treat it.

Day 2: Refugio El Caulle toBaos de Caulle34 hours, 14.5km, 350m ascentHead to the right of a stream gully overgrassy meadows dotted with daisy bushes,following staked cairns moderately north-east to reach the track turn-off up tothe Mirador Volcn Puyehue (see sidetrip, this page) at roughly 1600m on the

volcanos bare upper slopes, 35 to 45

minutes from the refugio. From here, youcan enjoy an excellent panorama of themajor volcanic peaks to the south: Osorno(the magnificent cone to the southwest),Puntiagudo, Casablanca and Tronador(the high, irregular, ice-covered mountainto the southeast). Lago Puyehue is belowto the west.

Continue left (northwest) along theSendero Los Baos, which makes a long,

undulating ascent around the steep, rockymountainsides, across ravines (many filledwith snow until late summer) and smallridges. Well-marked by cairned bamboostakes, the track turns gradually northeast,giving views of the amazing Ro de Lava,an enormous black lava flow that looks likea petrified glacier. Head on below puffingfumaroles on Volcn Puyehues northwestside, through the broad, snow-smothered

saddle of Portezuelo Puyehue (around1730m), 1 to two hours from the mirador(lookout) turn-off.

The route dips northeast into the barren,rolling plateau on the volcanos northernside to reach a sturdy steel signpost (GPS40 33.545 S, 72 07.439 W) at 1635m mark-ing the fork where Ruta de los Americanosdeparts right (see Alternative Route, p93),15 to 20 minutes on.

Continue left along the Sendero LosBaos, which leads gently down slightlynorthwest (towards Volcnes Mocho andChoshuenco in the distance), over dunelikeslopes of grey pumice, skirting the right(east) side of a deep, green stream gully toreach another signpost (GPS 40 32.526 S,72 07.556 W) at around 1525m after 25 to30 minutes. From here, a multiday routedeparts right (north) to Riinahue (see Al-ternative Finish, p93).

The Sendero Los Baos now turns west-ward, winding around past some extinctfumaroles. It then cuts down left to crossthe stream gully at its confluence withanother similar stream a short way belowCampamento Baos Antiguos (1430m;GPS 40 32.374 S, 72 08.117 W) after 15to 20 minutes. There are secluded, semi-sheltered campsites just upstream aroundthese former hot springs (which dried upmany years ago).

Head northwest over the desolate ter-rain, crossing a (cold) side stream of theupper Ro Nilahue to reach Campamento

Baos 1(GPS 40 32.113 S, 72 08.964 W),beside the river at the start of the smallBaos de Caulle thermal field after 20 to25 minutes. This tiny, flat area has a fewpoorly sheltered campsites by the track. Adug-out bath hidden among the ferns andnalcas here is often uncomfortably tepidbut bathers regulate the hotter springsemerging directly from the rocky river bedby building shallow pools. (Avoid a larger

and very warm hot spring slightly down-stream, however, as it mixes erratically withthe river water.)

The path continues a few minutes up-stream along the rivers true right (west)bank to the Campamento Baos 2, by awarm stream coming from the left. Thereis better camping here, although these sitesare often occupied by guided horse-ridingtours from El Caulle. This side stream can

be followed for five or 10 minutes up towhere various other bathable hot springsarise.

The track continues northward to LosGeisers (see side trip, p93).

SIDE TRIP: MIRADOR VOLCN PUYEHUE23 hours return, 3.5km, 630m ascent/descentThis side trip continues from the junctionabove the refugiosignposted simply Crater

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and cuts up northeast to the left of a spur.The most popular route climbs (virtuallystraight up) across snowdrifts in a minorbasin, then curves around to the left to gaina ridge leading to the highest point (2236m)on the volcanos rim overlooking the ice-filled crater. Snow-corniced cliffs drop awayinto the crater, so be careful where youtread. From the rim there is a superb viewof the surrounding countryside, with thedouble summit of Volcn Choshuenco nowalso visible towards the northeast, as well asLago Rupanco to the southwest.

SIDE TRIP: LOS GEISERS34 hours return, 11km, 120m ascent/descentThis easy trek to a small field of bubblingmud tubs, effervescent pools and geysersis a must.

From the Baos de Caulle, trek a shortway upstream along the true right (west)bank of the Ro Nilahue, briefly follow-ing then crossing a side stream. The routeheads northwest through a pumice gully,before cutting across a sparse plain to make

a (sometimes knee-high) wade through alarger spring-fed side stream, 25 to 30 min-utes from Campamento Baos 2.

The main path evidently routed morefor the convenience of horse-riders crossesand recrosses the now very small Ro Nila-hue several times as it leads on upstream pastfumaroles on the slopes over to the right.A less-prominent track saves trekkers eithertime or wet feet by continuing along the true

right (ie west) bank until crossing at the shal-low, uppermost ford (GPS 40 30.741 S, 7209.943 W), after 20 to 25 minutes.

Ascend away right (northwest), wherethe river emerges in several clustered coldsprings to the top of a minor ridge over-looking an undrained depression normallyfilled by a shallow, murky lake. Follow theridge rightward (north) then cut down tothe far end of the boggy basin. There, make

a quick, steep climb to the right high abovethe lake, continuing northeast to a point(GPS 40 29.770 S, 72 09.556 W) directlyabove the steaming, sulfurous thermal fieldof Los Geisers, 45 minutes to one hourfrom the final upper Ro Nilahue crossing.For your own safety, and to preserve thedelicate formations, be careful where youtread while exploring the area. Return viathe same route.

Days 3 & 4: Baos de Caulle toAnticura58 hours, 25kmRetrace your steps as on Day 2 and Day 1.Fitter and faster parties can opt to do bothsections in one long day.

A worthwhile short trek from Anticuragoes to Salto del Indio, a churning, 6m-highwaterfall on the Ro Golgol (where legendhas it that a Mapuche fleeing slavery in agold mine eluded the colonial Spaniardsby hiding behind the cascading curtain ofwater).

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: VIA RUTA DE LOS

AMERICANOS3 days, 49kmAlthough it is 24km longer, the Ruta delos Americanos is an excellent alternativeto backtracking via Refugio El Caulle. (It isalso more interesting and challenging thanthe other alternative route to Riinahue.)The route receives only light use and is notalways well marked, so careful navigationand route-finding are needed. Fundo El

Caulle is establishing well-spaced campsitesalong the way.

Retrace your steps (as per the de-scription Day 2) to the signposted trail

junction just northeast of PortezueloPuyehue, then head northeast via a nar-row, snowy gap and a broad ridge to PasoPiuquenes (around 1425m). The routethen drops southward along the westernside of the Ro Piuquenes, climbing high

above the Saltos del Piuquenes (severalwaterfalls spilling over escarpments), be-fore turning southwest to cross a seriesof stream gullies on the tundra-coveredeastern slopes of Volcn Puyehue.

Watch for where a foot track enters thelargely dead upper scrub (GPS 40 35.537S, 72 03.711 W) and descend throughthe forest to meet a disused road on thenorthern side of the Ro Golgol. The old

road continues west through superb tallrainforest that gradually gives way to cowpastures before you reach CampamentoLos Ciervos(see Day 1).

ALTERNATIVE FINISH: RIINAHUE3 days, 36kmThis easier alternative is more straightfor-ward, although generally less scenic, thanthe Ruta de los Americanos. From Baos

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de Caulle retrace your steps (as on Day2) to the signposted trail junction east ofCampamento Baos Antiguos, then headnorthward between two branches of the RoNilahue. The route drops steeply right tocross the eastern branch before climbing to

join a disused road. Continue along a broadridge separating the Ro Nilahue from theRo Contrafuerte, before fording and reford-ing the latter river several times due to recentlandslides. The often muddy trail continuesthrough the wet rainforest to meet a roughroad shortly before reaching a farmhouse(the owner here charges a transit fee ofCH$2000 watch out for aggressive dogs).

The road steadily improves as it crossesthe Ro Nilahue (not far above its conflu-ence with the Ro Contrafuerte) and theRo Los Venados, passing dairy farms andpatches of forest. Campsites can be foundin attractive meadows scattered with wildblackberry bushes. Proceed past the pic-turesque Laguna Pocura, from where thereare daily buses to Riinahue. Otherwise,continue through the scattered settlement

of Quirrasco to intersect with the FutronoLago Ranco road, then turn left and heada short way on to Riinahue. This villagehas two hosteras and several daily busesto the town of Lago Ranco. At Riinahue,free camping is possible on the southeast-ern shore of Lago Ranco ask permissionbefore camping on private property.

Pampa Frutilla, whose lowest point lies atjust over 1200m, is an attractive subalpineplateau at the northeastern foot of VolcnCasablanca. Its Spanish name (meaningstrawberry field) refers to the native Chil-ean strawberry, or quelln, found amongthe tussocky grasses of Pampa Frutilla.

These scrumptuous little red berries beginto ripen in late January.

The trek follows an old road originallybuilt by the Chilean military in the late 1970sduring the period of confrontation with Ar-gentina. Now quite impassable to motorized

vehicles, the road forms a section of theSendero de Chile, or the Chilean Trail (seeboxed text, p35) a planned trail extensionwill eventually take it from Pampa Frutillaup to Volcn Casablanca.

PLANNINGWhen to TrekThe trek can normally be done between lateNovember and late April. In January, tba-nos(native horseflies) are likely to be out inforce at lower elevations, but you will leavemost of them behind as you climb throughthe damp, dim forest.

MapsTwo Chilean IGM 1:50,000 maps, VolcnPuyehue (Section H, No 27) and VolcnCasablanca (Section H, No 36) cover the

trek.

Permits & RegulationsTrekkers are required only to sign in be-fore they depart and sign out after theyreturn. Although Pampa Frutilla receives amoderate number of visitors, practice leave-no-trace principles to keep it pristine.

GETTING TO/FROM THE TREKSee Anticura (p124).

THE TREKDay 1: Anticura to Lagunas delos Monos7-8 hours, 22km, 875m ascentAfter signing in at the Guardera Anticura,enter the complex on foot, passing the signfor Salto Pudu on your right and bearingslight left to join the trail signposted Sen-

dero de Chile. The 2.5km section goes east,parallel to Ruta 215 for 40 to 50 minutes toa hanging footbridge. Cross the bridge andhead left 50m to join the main trail. Theleft branch goes to a parking area on Ruta215 (GPS 40 39.679 S, 72 08.634 W) nearwaterfall Salto de los Novios; go right forPampa Frutilla.

Continue along the old road (not passa-ble for vehicles) fringed by stinging nettles,

Duration 2 daysDistance 44kmDifficulty easymoderateStart/Finish AnticuraNearest Town OsornoTransport bus

Summary A straightforward out-and-backtrek up to one of the Chilean Lakes Districts

most extensive coirones, or natural highland

pastures.

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elephant-ear nalcas and red-flowered es-calloniabushes. The track leads southeast,rising only very gently up through moistforest of tiacaand fragrant tepa. After oneto 1 hours you reach an open grassy fieldoffering views of the snowy tops of Vol-cn Casablanca to the south as well as toVolcn Puyehue back north a welcomerespite from the temperate jungle. Idealcampsitescan be found here.

Cross the Estero Ultimoas you re-enterthe forest this stream is the last watersource for some time and begin a steadybut moderate climb through well-spacedstands of common coigewith a dense un-derstorey of fuchsias and quila. In places,the scarlet flowers of creeping estrellitaslight up the dark, mossy trunks, but thereare no views until the track leads up undera jagged ridge over to your left. The trackrises into stands of coige de Magallanesthat gradually give way to highland lenga,passing an unmarked turn-off (shortly afterthe route makes a rightward curve) thatgoes off southwest down to refugio ruins

by the aptly named Laguna Seca, two to2 hours from Estero Ultimo.

The old road cuts up around to the left,skirting the side of the ridge as it ascendsthrough irre scrub into grassy rollingtundra dotted with chaura. There are great

vistas southeast along the wild, denselyforested basin of the Ro Negro as far asthe mighty Monte Tronador massif. Makeyour way around eastward across a broad

pass (1350m), before short-cutting downleft to rejoin the old road. There are new

views across the alpine meadows of PampaFrutilla immediately below to Cerro Fru-tilla and further southeast to the remarkablehorn of Cerro Pantojo.

Continue left across a normally dry,eroding stream bed to reach scenic, semi-sheltered campsites at the forest fringeby the upper lake of the Lagunas de los

Monos, two to 2 hours from the LagunaSeca turnoff. The larger, lower (northeast)lake can be reached in five minutes by cut-ting over in a northeasterly direction; itssoutheastern shore is suitable for camping.Pairs of Andean gulls frequent these lakes.

SIDE TRIP: LAGUNAS DEL PAJARITOS23 hours return, 10km, 120m ascentFrom the upper of the Lagunas de los

Monos, cut 1km southeast across the openmeadows, then turn around left and followa narrow extended clearing within the lengaforest (GPS 40 44.774 S, 72 02.027 W)until it ends. Here, pick up the sometimesslightly overgrown track leading northeastover a crest to reach a small stream (whichdrains into the lower of the Lagunas de losMonos), crossing and recrossing the streamas it heads up into an eroding, gravelly can-yon. At a small, isolated stand of lengas, cutup steeply rightward then traverse well abovethe stream, past where it divides into severalbranches to a ridgetop. From the ridgetopthe nearby Cerro Frutilla (1585m) can beclimbed in around two hours return.

The route skirts around to the left into aminor pass (around 1335m) covered withbrecillo, 45 minutes to one hour from Lagu-nas de los Monos. Head around left onto ascoria embankment, then cut down south-east through the forest to reach the Lagunasdel Pajaritos after 25 to 30 minutes. Thesebeautiful aqua-blue lakes offer excellentcampingon grassy meadows (which extend

well to the southeast of the lakes). Return viathe same route.

Day 2: Lagunas de los Monos toAnticura56 hours, 22km, 875m descentRetrace your steps as on Day 1.

ALTERNATIVE FINISH: ANTILLANCA VIAVOLCN CASABLANCA

69 hours, 18km, 1020m ascentThis difficult traverse across VolcnCasablanca is suited only to trekkers withexcellent navigational and route-findingabilities. Before January, an ice axe (andperhaps also crampons) is advisable.

Return to the small pass above PampaFrutilla (see Day 1), then cut down south-west through the light forest and acrossthe uppermost streamlets of the Ro Negro

basin. The route climbs westward via openvolcanic ridges to the summit of VolcnCasablanca, whose views do not disap-point. The descent normally leads viaCrater Rayhun (a small side crater) thenalong a dirt road to reach the tiny ski vil-lage of Antillanca(www.skiantillanca.cl, inSpanish) on the volcanos western slopes,18km by road from the hot-springs resortof Aguas Calientes. In summer, you can

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stay at Antillancas Refugio Buschmann(contact in Osorno;%65-235114; s/d fromCH$17,000/24,000).

Alternatively, trekkers can follow an11km trail from Crater Rayhun northwest

via Conafs rustic Refugio Bertin to AguasCalientes.

PARQUE NACIO-NAL VICENTEPREZ ROSALESFeaturing a great emerald lake ringedby steep Valdivian rainforest and volca-noes, Chiles oldest national park protects251,000 hectares. The vegetation is lushand the scenery stunning. The largest parkin the Chilean Lakes District, it reachesthe Argentine border, connecting withParque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. These twoparks, together with the adjoining ParqueNacional Puyehue, form the largest tract

of trans-Andean wilderness in the LakesDistrict. The parks name pays homage tothe Chilean businessman and mining mag-nate Vicente Prez Rosales, who was alsoan accomplished writer and the founder ofPuerto Montt.

Lago Todos Los Santos, at only 184mabove sea level, is the parks lowest point.This 221-sq-km lake is ringed by some ofthe highest and most prominent volcanic

peaks of the southern Lakes District: thesnowtipped volcanoes Osorno (2652m),Puntiagudo (2190m) and Monte Tronador(3554m). Apart from Lago Pirehueico, somedistance to the north, Lago Todos Los Santosis the only major low-level lake on the Chil-ean side that stretches deep into the Andes.

The lake lies deep within a glacial trough,not at the termination of a former glacierspath (like nearby Lago Llanquihue). Im-

mediately following the last ice age, LagoTodos Los Santos was joined with LagoLlanquihue in an enormous body of water,but subsequent eruptions of Volcn Osornoand Volcn Calbuco divided them into sep-arate lakes. Apart from the access road toPetrohu at its outlet and the isolated roadbetween Peulla and Puerto Fras at its east-ern tip, no roads penetrate its wild, denselyforested shoreline.

Todos los Santos, which means AllSaints Lake, was christened by early-17th-century Jesuit missionaries, who took thisroute from Chil to Argentina, seeking anAndean passage to form missions with hos-tile Mapuche tribes around Lago NahuelHuapi.

ENVIRONMENTThe heavy rainfall and mild weather ofVicente Prez Rosales support dense, lushValdivian rainforest whose predominanttrees are coige, tepa, mao, ulmo, canelo,olivillo(or teque), lingueand avellano. Lesscommon tree species include the lleuque, apodocarp that grows on moist slopes above600m. The lleuques small yellow fruit havethe appearance of tiny lemons. The maquiis a very small tree typically found in stands(so-called machales) at the edge of the for-est. It has oval leaves on a reddish stemand produces seedy edible purple berries,from which the Mapuche made an alcoholicdrink called tecu.

The rainforest understorey harbors great

botanical diversity. The park is an importantrefuge for the ciprs enano, an extremelyrare dwarf member of the podocarp familythat is almost identical to the pygmy pineof New Zealand. This tiny, prostrate conifergrows in montane swamps, often largelyhidden by other nearby plants. More com-mon is the quilquil, a species of tree ferntypically found growing in stream gullies.Its palm-like appearance earned it the com-

mon name of palmilla. In small clearingsyoull find several species of ipa, recognis-able by their red or pinkish tubular flowersthat end in five out-turned petals. Foundalong streams or wetlands, the distinctivechaquihue (also called polizonte) producesbright-red, rounded, podlike flowers on itslarge, leafy twigs.

The parks lush vegetation makes it a ver-itable paradise for birds, of which parrots

and nectar-eating hummingbirds are espe-cially plentiful. The choroy, a large greenparakeet most easily identified by its longcurved beak, dwells in these forests. Therun runis a species of tyrant flycatcher thattypically frequents wetlands, lake shoresand riverbanks; apart from its yellow beakthe male is black, while the female has acoffee-colored upper body and a pale-yel-low breast with dark longitudinal stripes.

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The yeco, also called bigua, a large blackcormorant common throughout the moistcoastal areas of southern South America,often visits Lago Todos Los Santos, to feedon its abundant fish and small amphibians.This large waterbird is an excellent diverand can often be seen perched on a log orrock with its wings outstretched.

The tiny brown monito del monte, ormouse oopossum, inhabits these temperaterainforests along with its marsupial cousin,the rincholesta. The rincholesta is a rarenocturnal insectivore that was only discov-ered by science although the indigenousMapuche people certainly knew about it in the 1950s. Other mammals common tothe forests of Vicente Prez Rosales includethe pudu, coipo, huia, Patagonian red foxand puma.

Numerous native fish live in the parkslakes and rivers. The main species arepejer-rey,puyen, Patagonian perch and peladilla.More plentiful are introduced salmon andtrout. The peculiar Darwins frog (sapopartero as its known in Spanish or mid-

wife frog), first zoologically classified byCharles Darwin, also inhabits the parksponds, lakes and rivers. After fertilization,the male frog incubates and hatches theeggs inside his own mouth, from which thefully developed froglets not tadpoles emerge after three weeks.

CLIMATEIn this extremely wet coastal climate, annual

rainfall averages 2500mm at Ensenada onthe parks western extreme, and rises steadilytowards the east. Precipitation levels aroundPaso de Prez Rosales on the ChileAr-gentina frontier reach over 5000mm thehighest levels in the Lakes District. Mod-erated by the lakes low elevation andproximity to the Pacific coast, average an-nual temperatures around the shore of LagoTodos Los Santos are a relatively high 12C.

The hottest summer days rarely exceed 30C.Conditions are less mild at higher altitudesin the surrounding ranges, where wintersregularly bring heavy snowfalls.

PLANNINGWhen to TrekUnless youre planning to go above the treeline, treks in Parque Nacional Vicente PrezRosales can generally be done between early

November and early May. The hot weatherbetween mid-December and late Januaryusually brings out the tbanos, which canbe a particular nuisance in locations belowthe tree line.

Permits & RegulationsThere are few restrictions on trekking inParque Nacional Vicente Prez Rosales. Nopermit is required but, where possible, in-form the park authorities of your intendedroute and the names of all members in theparty. There are a number of small enclavesof freehold land within the park, and al-though the trekking routes are public rightsof way, trekkers should respect private prop-erty. Some recognized campsites are alsoon private land and an increasing numberof property owners levy a small charge forcamping. Wild camping is permitted, butuse discretion when choosing your site.

ACCESS TOWNSee Petrohu (p127).

Relatively remote, Termas de Callao lieshidden behind Volcn Puntiagudo in theValle Sin Nombre. These luxuriant natu-ral hot springs sit just beside the small RoSin Nombre, which flows into Lago Todos

Los Santos. The forest banking the river isdotted with small farms. The trek reachesits highest point at a forested pass around800m, then descends to finish along theshore of tranquil Lago Rupanco.

The trek generally follows horse trails keptin condition by the local inhabitants, and alllarger streams are bridged. Along the centralsection of the route between the Termas deCallao and Laguna Los Quetros, however,

Duration 3 daysDistance 40kmDifficulty easyStart El RincnFinish El PonchoNearest TownsPetrohu, OsornoTransport boat, bus

Summary Trek through dense temperate

rainforest and farmland with volcano viewsand soak in a wooden hot tub on this

traverse between two major lakes.

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fallen trees obscure the way in places, so care-ful route-finding is occasionally required.Throughout this trek, where the earth iscomposed of friable pumice, the path rapidlyerodes to form deep trenches, revealing thehistory of previous local volcanic eruptionsin the layers of the soil. In places where thetrenches have become too deep the path hasbeen rerouted or reinforced with logs.

Trekkers are strongly advised to walk in asouth-to-north direction, as there is no reli-able way of getting out from El Rincn (onthe remote northern shore of Lago TodosLos Santos).

PLANNINGWhen to TrekBecause of their low elevation and relativelysheltered aspect, the Termas de Callao canbe visited from late spring until late fall (lateOctober to early May) when other walks maybe out of condition. However, summer (De-cember to February) is the best time to do thetrek. An additional day could be spent enjoy-ing the lovely valley around the springs.

What to BringThere is only one area with lodging alongthe route. Although it is possible for fit andfast parties to do the trek without carryinga tent, this is not recommended.

Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas are thelogical places to buy supplies before thetrek. Farms along the trek often sell home-baked bread, honey and other produce.

MapsThe JLM Mapas Ruta de los Jesuitas map(No 15) includes a 1:50,000 (approxi-mately) map of the Termas de Callao sectorof Parque Nacional Vicente Prez Rosales.It and the two Chilean IGM maps on whichit appears to be based Volcn Casablanca(Section H, No 36) and Peulla(Section H,No 44) show the walking track but suffer

from omissions and errors regarding theexact route.

GETTING TO/FROM THE TREKEl Rincn (start)Trekkers must bus to Petrohu, then chartera boat to the trailhead. The trek begins at ElRincn (also known as Puerto Callao) in aninlet on the northern shore of Lago TodosLos Santos, about halfway across the lake.

BUSYou can get to Petrohu from Puerto Monttby catching a minibus to Puerto Varas onLago Llanquihue these leave throughoutthe day from the eastern end of PuertoMontts main bus terminal (CH$1000, 30minutes) changing in Puerto Varas forPetrohu (CH$2000, one hour). In sum-mer, buses run between Puerto Varasand Petrohu about every half hour from8.30am to 6pm.

BOATIn summer, boats wait for passengers atthe dock in Petrohu. The starting pricefor a boat to El Rincn is CH$70,000, sotry to find other trekkers to share the cost.The trip takes between one and two hours,depending on the type of boat as well asthe direction and speed of the winds. Itshould also be possible to charter a boatto El Rincn from Peulla, a village on thelakes remote eastern shore. Remember,once you reach El Rincn the only way outis the trek described below.

El Poncho (finish)The walk finishes at El Poncho, a smallscattering of holiday houses on the south-ern shore of Lago Rupanco. Buses leave ElPoncho for Osorno (CH$2300, 2hours)at 6am Monday through Saturday and at1pm on Sundays.

THE TREKDay 1: El Rincn to Termas deCallao34 hours, 12kmThe boat lands on the sandy beach of ElRincn. Make your way uphill past thebeach, through a clearing (a pleasant camp-site), and over a minor crest with viewsof Lago Todos Los Santos. (You can alsofind good camping on the scenic flats wherethe Ro Sin Nombre enters Lago Todos Los

Santos, 15 to 20 minutes west around thelakeside via a good trail.) Continue throughsemicleared fields. A good horse track si-dles down northward through ulmo forestabove the Ro Sin Nombre, which rushesthrough a deep gully on your left, to crossthe Ro La Junta side stream after 40 to50 minutes. If you dont trust the ricketysuspension bridge, wade the shallow waterslightly downstream.

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Follow the sometimes muddy path for20 to 25 minutes to cross the Ro Sin Nom-bre itself on another precarious suspensionbridge and continue upstream. The pathdips and rises along the rivers steep-sidedwestern bank before it climbs away to theleft past a farm (with produce for sale) andcrosses another suspension bridge over alarge side stream, the Ro Hassmann, aftera further one to 1 hours. Here, the trailgoes briefly left, upstream, then climbsback to the right and proceeds on throughthe rainforest. Termas signs direct youthrough a bamboo-scattered clearing andback across the Ro Sin Nombre to reach afarmhouse 35 to 45 minutes on.

The farmhouse Hospedaje el Callao (inPuerto Varas %065-252998; r per personwith dinner and breakfast CH$16,000,lunch CH$7000) boasts full views of themajestic summit of Volcn Puntiagudo tothe west. You can pick up the keys to therefugioand hot springs, and pay your dues,at the farmhouse. It may be wise to arrangeto leave the keys at the refugioto save back-

tracking to the farm.The route now leads along the eastern

bank of the Ro Sin Nombre, crossing oncemore before it passes an abandoned, shin-gled, wooden cottage and arrives after afinal 30 to 40 minutes at Termas de Callao(camping per tent CH$3500, refugio perperson CH$6000). This excellent hut, builtfrom native timbers, stands on private landand has a wood stove, a sink, bamboo fur-

niture and space for six people.There is very attractive camping just

below the refugio. The thermal baths(CH$2500) are just down by the river in alittle shed with two tubs inside. The water ispiping hot, moderated with a hose comingfrom the cold stream. The valley sits en-closed by high, densely rainforested granitepeaks on either side, well-worth a day ofexploring.

Day 2: Termas de Callao to LasGaviotas45 hours, 16kmFrom the refugio make your way up val-ley through scrubby pastures along therivers western bank before rising into therainforest. Bear left at the second (prob-ably dry) major side stream you come to,carefully following the route through an

area of fallen trunks, then on through tinygrassy patches.

After 40 to 50 minutes the well-main-tained path turns away from the RoSin Nombre and begins climbing gentlynorthwestward beside a cascading stream,through a forest of gnarled maoand fra-grant-leafed tepa.

Cross the stream and ascend along a steepspur through dense thickets of bamboo untilthe gradient eases, 50 minutes to 1 hourson. The path briefly follows the ridgetopnorthward through montane coige andulmoforest, dropping down steeply to cross astream, then climbing again, before it makesa proper descent northeast into fire-clearedpastures where the southwestern corner ofLaguna Los Quetroscomes into view.

Continue for 40 to 50 minutes aroundthe lakes reedy western shore to reachCamping Vieja Cabaa(camping per tentCH$3500), which has a pit toilet, beside asmall stand of alerce trees. There is a pic-turesque farm cottage on the opposite sideof Laguna Los Quetros, which lies in a basin

that drains underground through the po-rous volcanic soil. The lake and campsiteare on private land attached to the cottage,and the owner rows across the lake to col-lect fees.

Follow the prominent horse track, inplaces massively reinforced with logs, uparound the northwest side of the tranquillake into the forest and over a low water-shed. Make your way down beside a stream

(a small tributary of the Ro Gaviotas) to-wards the snowy cap of Volcn Casablanca.The path descends steadily through clear-ings, giving way to open hillsides, to passthe first farmhouse at the edge of a broadgreen bowl after 1 to 1 hours. Horses,cattle and flocks of noisy black-necked ibisgraze on these choice Lakes District pas-tures.

Skirt northwestward through a series of

gates in the middle of the fields into a minorsaddle high above Lago Rupanco. With thevolcano and shimmering lake ahead of you,drop down past wooden cottages, neat veg-etable gardens and a rural school to reacha trail fork on grassy slopes scattered withblackberry bushes after 30 to 40 minutes.Five minutes further down, the left-handbranch meets a wide track along the black-sand shore of Lago Rupanco, while the

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right-hand path goes down almost to thevillage of Las Gaviotas at the lakes south-eastern corner.

Las Gaviotashas no accommodation orstore, and there is no particular reason to goright into the village unless you need a pub-lic telephone, which it does have. There is anice campsite(camping per tent CH$3000),with picnic tables and firewood provided, a10- to 15-minute walk west, near where astream enters the lake; a landowner collectsthe fee. Other camping possibilities existalong the black-sand beach a short wayfrom where you meet Lago Rupanco.

Day 3: Las Gaviotas to El Poncho22 hours, 12kmFollow the dark, sandy shore west throughthe front yards of lake-side holiday houses.The wide, graded track rises and dips aroundthe often very steep banks of Lago Rupanco,past rustic shacks and through patches offorest fringed by blackberry bushes. Cross alarge, dry gully and head up to the left, pastthe remains of a suspension footbridge, just

before you come out above a lovely lake-side pasture after one to 1 hours.

The trail climbs away left over scrubbyslopes high above the lake, bringing into

view the bare volcanic ridges surroundingVolcn Puntiagudo to the south. Drop downbehind more holiday houses around a broadtranquil bay, its western side now scarredby an unsightly road extension, to cross amajor stream on a sturdy log bridge, 30 to 40

minutes on. On the far side of this bridge thedirt road begins. Follow this around the bay,past a kiosco (store) and across the PuenteRo Blanco, then past the exclusive BahaEscocia Fly Fishing Lodge, to reach the tinysettlement of El Ponchoafter a final 40 to 50minutes. El Poncho itself has a small storeand a bus stop but little else.

PARQUENACIONALNAHUEL HUAPIWith craggy ranges, deep forested valleysand big lakes, the great Parque NacionalNahuel Huapi (nah-well-wah-pee) is thelargest national park on either side of the

northern Patagonian Andes. One of SouthAmericas finest climbing destinations,it lies to the west of the popular touristhub of Bariloche in the Argentine LakesDistrict. Nahuel Huapis rugged interioris accessible via an extensive network ofwell-maintained trails as well as numer-ous rougher, unmarked routes supportedby many excellent alpine refugios.

HISTORYFormally established in 1934, NahuelHuapi is the oldest of Argentinas nationalparks. The original park (whose title wasParque Nacional del Sur) was first grantedto the pioneering explorer Francisco PeritoMoreno for his services to the ArgentineBoundary Commission. Perito Moreno do-nated it back on the condition that it beturned into a national park.

Todays park once formed a large part ofthe Mapuche heartland, with tribes inhab-iting the eastern shores of the great lake.Several low Andean passes