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Trip to Brazil from Martha’s Diary and Photo Album

Ship Description

S.S. Del Santos, a cargo ship – carrying about 3 or 4 million

dollars worth. A crew of 46. Officers – The captain Mr.

Smith

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Twelve passengers

1. Five in our group

2. Jo Withauer – going to Rio under the Southern Baptist Board to work in publishing

house as a secretary. A friend of hers is a friend of Uncle Willie’s (Louise Smith and

Jo Jones)

3. Mr. and Mrs. Hargroves, an Assembly of God minister. His wife and little daughter,

Sandy, 20 months old. “Our pet.” They are going to Rio to establish a publishing

house.

4. Senhor da Cunha – from Sao Paula, Brazil. Returning from 3 months’ stay in the

U.S. Presbyterian of an Export-Import firm in Brazil (Lots of fun)

5. Mrs. Spaulding from California, a tourist. Her first trip to Brazil. A Catholic.

6. Mrs. Crejo – a Mormon – Lived in Brazil, 15 years. Came back to U.S. and is now

returning to Brazil.

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Tuesday, December 2nd

Left New Orleans Hotel about 1:45. Sent telegram to Unity Young People just before

leaving (Young people from Unity Presbyterian Church in Ft. Mill, SC – the church where

Martha had served as a Home Missionary).

Hoyt Miller came to the hotel and rode in the taxi with me to the boat.

Watched them fill boat with water. Saw trunks, bed, etc., go onboard. We were assigned

to state rooms (describe). Mrs. Heindel came down to see us off. Also, Mrs. Long, Presbyterial

President, brought box of pralines and envelopes for each of us to open on Christmas.

Boat not to leave till seven so all our company left. Supper bell rings at 5 – a grand

supper – ham potatoes, butterbeans, cake, coffee, tomato and lettuce salad. While eating Hoyt

and Mr. Dubose walked in. Merle and Mrs. Dubose in car. Mrs. Dubose brought a nice box of

fudge for all of us.

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All the workmen get off and the wharf doors close, so they leave.

All of us go aboard and watch the tow boat turn us around. We start pulling away

from wharf at 7:45.

We stand out and watch till the New Orleans wharf is almost out of sight.

We went to bed about 8:30 and didn’t sleep much

Wednesday, December 3rd

Got up at 6:30 to see if we were still in sight of land – water on all sides – a beautiful

sunrise and we were headed right toward it. “Still, Still with Thee.”

Couldn’t make it to breakfast – ate orange in room – toast and more fruit later. Lost it just

before lunch so ate only soda crackers for lunch. Stayed on deck until 3:15.

Boat drill – Donned our life safer belts and came to life boat. Went back to state room and

stayed in bed most of the rest of the day. Didn’t try to go to supper – ate fruit and bread and

butter in the room, but lost it before bed time. Early to bed.

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Thursday, December 4th

Breakfast in bed. A visit from the captain to inquire about my feelings. Finally about 10

o’clock got up and took a shower, dressed and came up on deck – just in time to see a glimpse of

two of the Florida Keys. The last sight of land till we get to Cuba.

Saw lots of ships during the morning – 6 at one time – Captain let us look through his

binoculars.

I made it to lunch today – fried chicken, mashed potatoes, noodle soup, milk.

Back up on deck to sit in the sun. Water very smooth and a beautiful blue. Ship

smoother riding than a train. Saw several navy ships, a dirigible and a plane. One of the officers

says there must be some submarines around. Took pictures on top deck.

Made it to supper again. After supper we all sat on deck and talked. Saw lights of Cuba.

Ran watches up an hour tonight.

Friday, December 5

On north side of Cuba. Captain took me into his office and showed me just where we are

by his charts. Cay Verde in Cuba on one side, a tower on Cape Logos in the Bahamas (a prison

owned by British). He also showed me how fathoms are measured, how the ship is steered, etc

All day we are along the coast of Cuba. Saw only one ship today. Met one ship at night

going north. Rain tonight just at bedtime.

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Saturday, December 6

After breakfast just sat on deck – feeling too bad to

do anything else. After lunch began to see mountains of

Haiti – Monte Cristo.

During afternoon came very close to land – only

about 7 ½ miles could even see green trees and land. Saw

city of Puerta Plata. We were along Hispaniola all day.

After supper we all sat on deck and sang hymns.

Saw a very bright star – Venus. We ran our watches up an

hour tonight.

Jo Withauer has such a nice short wave radio

and how we love to hear programs from the

U.S. This afternoon we heard the President

at the Dedication of the Everglades National

Park. We also heard the Hallelujah Chorus

sung by a choir of the Church of the

Nazarene, a transcribed program, from San

Juan, Puerto Rico.

Sunday, December 7

On the coast of Puerto Rica! Very pretty – rugged sea coast – mountains. Going into

Caribbean.

At 10 o’clock we had such a nice service on deck. I wrote out some hymns from memory

and led the singing. We sang “Holy, Holy, Holy.” A prayer by Mr. Hargroves. Sang, “I Am

Thine, O Lord”, “Sweet Hour of Prayer.” Scripture in unison – John 3:1 – 16. Hymn, “Take

Time to Be Holy”, prayer and sermon. Mr. Hargraves – Ezekiel 30:16. Hymn, “Tis So Sweet to

Trust in Jesus” A service never to be forgotten! The congregation consisted of 5 Presbyterians,

1 Baptist, 1 Catholic, 1 Mormon, and 3 Assembly of God.

After service I took colored pictures of Sandy. Lunch at 11:30. Noodle soup, baked

chicken, candied yams, and iced tea!

After lunch I tried to stay in room but couldn’t. Came back on deck and looked at Mr.

Do Cunha’s scrapbook of his visit in U.S. and Jo’s photograph album.

Donned a summer dress today. Weather much warmer. Sea so calm. Sky so blue. Sun

so warm.

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Monday, December 8

Washed my hair this a.m. Had to stay in stateroom while the decks were being washed.

Went up about 9 to see the land on the left – Martinique – Mount Pelee, a volcano which erupted

in 1901.

The city of St. Pierre. On the right we saw St. Lucia in a.m. British Island between these two

islands we came out into the Atlantic. Then we began to roll after lunch we went on top deck to

see the land through the captain’s binoculars. He took Katherine, Joe, Mr. Cunha and me on a

tour to see all the workings of the navigation of the boat. Wonderful!

After supper on deck we listened to the radios. Heard Richmond and New York very clearly.

Bing Crosby singing White Christmas – sort of got the best of me.

Tonight on the right we saw the lights of Barbados. The last of land until we see Brazil.

About 9:30 started to bed but stopped by the captain’s room for a chat. He gave me a Testament.

Tuesday, December 9

Just dawned on me this morning that I’ve been a whole week without mail. It was the

first time I had missed it. Our anniversary. One week ago today we left New Orleans. A whole

week on the water. It really has been an experience.

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Wednesday, December 10

Feeling pretty unsettled but made a try at breakfast. Couldn’t stay. Spent the morning on

the rear deck doing nothing but sitting and entertaining Sandy.

Didn’t try to go to lunch – ate melba toast and iced tea on deck. Felt much better and walked

around a while. Went on upper deck with Frances, Mrs. Campbell and Jo to take some pictures.

They left and I stayed up awhile to be alone. After supper we had rain so we had to stay

downstairs for awhile. Jo and I went up on top deck to look at stars. K. Werner, a third mate

was there and we talked to him awhile. We ran our watches up another hour so bed time came

early.

Thursday, December 11

Didn’t try to go to breakfast. Sat on deck all morning. It rained this afternoon so I went

down in the captain’s office. I get so-o-o-o-o sick in the stateroom. At 3:15 we had another fire

and boat drill. After that I went back to the captain’s office till supper time. Jo came in and we

heard “Jesu, Joy of Man’s Desiring.” After supper more rain so we all went into the captain’s

room and talked. Found out I could send radiogram home tomorrow. Can hardly wait!

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Friday, December 12

Katherine and I went on top deck and sat in the sun. Coming down the steps she turned her

ankle and almost fainted. After lunch Katherine, Jo, and I went in and wrote out our ocean

letters. 10 words for $2.00. In the night the boat whistle blew 5 times straight – because of heavy

rains – a weird sound to hear in the middle of the night. This afternoon we played jump rope and

pitched the captain’s medicine ball around. Made us feel better because we really needed

exercise. After supper we saw a comet in the sky. Beautiful through the binoculars.

Also saw an oil tanker in the distance. Then we sat down on the rear deck as usual and talked.

Katherine and I sang. Ken kept standing around but how was I to know what he wanted to do?

Consequently, he went downstairs, and I stayed with the crowd.

Saturday, December 13

Got up early this morning – 5:45. Hope to see the sun rise but was not quite smart

enough. Went out first in my house coat and then came back in and dressed and went up on

deck. Had a wonderful quiet time reading Psalms and praying – ate an orange and came down

just a little before breakfast time.

After breakfast I sat around on the side deck and played with Sandy. She finally went to

sleep on my shoulder and slept till lunch time. Everybody is working on the declaration of

baggage, etc., to give to customs. Guess I’ll get mine done before Monday. After lunch we

discussed having initiation into King Neptune’s Court* but since I am the only one with a

bathing suit, they decided to call it off. The captain issued our diploma’s anyway.

Saturday a.m. we just played around – went down a little early and dressed for supper.

The comet was still visible tonight.

We sat around “star gazing” until a certain mate decided to quit work. Then we went up

on top deck and had a wonderful time star gazing together. Shooting stars seemed to put on a

show for us. He loves to sing so we enjoyed that, too. Went down about 10:30.

Sunday, December 14

Another Sunday aboard the S.S. Del Santos. After breakfast Katherine and I hunted up

song books with Christmas carols to use for the service and practiced a duet, “Long Ago, There

Was Born”.

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Mr. Hargrove preached a wonderful Christmas sermon bringing out the significance of “A Child

Is Born, A Son Is Given” and also the wonderful “Jesus, the prophecies concerning his birth, his

life, his death, resurrection , his name and his coming again. We enjoyed singing the familiar

carols. I, leading the singing asked the group to turn to hymn 204, and I was the only one who

had a book-a most unusual congregation, 5 Presbyterians, 1 Baptist, 1 Mormon, 3 Assembly of

God, and 2 Catholics.

After service until lunch time we took many pictures of the whole group.

Sunday afternoon I took a nap on deck in the sun – woke up just burning up, feeling

terrible. Went downstairs and found Pauline in the captain’s office writing letters and he

listening to the radio. I joined them and lo and behold! He served us Cokes!

The funniest thing happened. Frances walked in and he tried to hide the glasses behind him and

back out the door with the glasses and broke all three to smidgens.

After supper he carried Frances, Katherine, Pauline, Jo and me out to the bow of the ship

– we hoped to see porpoise but didn’t. We came back and went up on top deck to star gaze

awhile – I left the crowd and met Ken downstairs. Then we went up together “to smoke a

cigarette” before he had to go to bed. His hours are from 2 to 4 so he has to turn in early. The

crowd was most surprised when I came down so early and joined them in a hymn sing. We had

such a good time laughing at Mr. Cunha telling things in Portuguese and having Frances to

translate.

Monday a.m., December 15

Got up before seven and went upstairs. Had a quiet time and then went on top deck

where I found Ken sleeping.

I waked him and we talked till breakfast time. After breakfast

we went back up and sat in the sun – or rather he did – and

was it hot! I sat in the shade and still got my arms and legs

burned. We went down just in time for lunch. After lunch I

made out my declaration for the purser, washed my hair and

rolled it, pressed a dress to put on, and then went up on deck

to write a letter home. Helped Mrs. Hargrove learn Happy

Birthday in Portuguese to sing to Mr. Cunha at dinner tonight.

Parabéns pra você, Nesta data querida.

Muitas felicidades,

Muitos anos de vida.

After dinner we went up on deck. Ken came up, but the Captain sent him back down to

look at the stars. Finally tho’ he came back as the crowd vanished – very considerate of them.

We talked and sang till about 9 and then he went to bed. They all think I’m a good child to come

in so early. I would love to have stayed up to see the Southern Cross at Midnight but no one else

had that ambition so I followed suit and went to bed.

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(Lost my diary this afternoon and searched the place over for it. Surely hope it is in my room.) –

See Tuesday below.

Tuesday, December 16 (Bill’s Birthday)

Our last full day on board ship.

Went up on deck to read some Psalms before breakfast. After breakfast played with

Sandy for awhile and then took a short sun bath on the “hair pin” deck – trying to brown the

backs of my legs.

Spent a busy morning packing and washed two dresses.

After lunch came upstairs to let my dinner settle and to be sure that everyone else was on

the job. Finished my letter home leaving enough space to add a note tomorrow.

Found this precious diary while packing this morning so it is taking quite a while to catch

up – writing Sunday, Monday and today.

Tuesday night went on deck right after supper. Ken was there but had to leave to work

for awhile. He came back up about eight, and we sat on deck and talked. The wind was blowing

hard and the soot was terrible. Got it all over my blue dress – the one Clara Merritt gave me.

‘Twas worth it tho.’

A Perfect Day – Wednesday, December 17

Worked hard this morning getting things packed up so I could see the first signs of land.

Saw some mountains just after breakfast. Went down and ironed 2 dresses and then bathed and

dressed. Lunch – everyone on deck – all excited because the Harbor of Rio is in sight. It is

indescribable! We see a fort just before we turn into the Bay. The airport, Copacabana Beach,

the city sky scrapers – and very close is the famous Sugar Loaf – in the distance is Corcovado

with the huge statue of Christ with open arms – welcoming us to Brazil.

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The Brazilian flag is raised over the bow of

the ship. Our ship’s flags giving her name are

raised. The quarantine flag – black and white.

Kenneth does all the flag raising. I got a picture of

the Brazilian flag and many pictures of the harbor

and of us onboard.

We pulled in about 2 p.m. The Brazilian

officials came aboard, checked our passports, took

our fingerprints (messy) and checked our

immunization records. It was very exciting to see

the launches come up close to the ship, let the men

off and then ride around until they were ready to

go back to shore. Mr. Cunha’s brother-in-law

came aboard and he introduced all of us. Soon we

heard there was no room in the docks and we

would have to spend the night on the ship. I gave a

shout of glee – one more night with Ken, and, too,

we can see Rio at night.

In the afternoon Miss Crago’s brother came aboard for her. Her mother and friends

waited in a launch. What a thrill to see them meet after 18 years of separation. Her brother

brought us orchids and word from the Hursts. After the excitement was over we went in and

undressed and dressed more comfortably. Ken came around and at first said he was going ashore

at 6:30 – I was dumbfounded. Said he thought it best for us both. Finally talked till too late for

him to go. Then we decided to go fishing. He went downstairs and stayed about an hour getting

the line untangled. We fished awhile but no luck. Went aboard and enjoyed the light of Rio

from the top side. The captain was so kind to us all afternoon and let us use his binoculars .

About 10:30 we came back and tried our luck again and lo and behold we caught a fish – a bulls

head about 21? inches long. So much fun! I carried it in to show the other girls.

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The rest of the crowd went downstairs for a feast. Our last night!

Rain! Thursday a.m., December 18 – Rain!

Got up early and packed up again. A launch to come at 9:30 to take us and our hand

luggage aboard. Ken came around after breakfast and we talked awhile at the side door. We

took pictures of our fish in the rain.

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The launch came on time and soon we were aboard. As I started down the gang plank, Ken

handed me his address. When I opened it, it was a grand picture of him.

Steve Sloop with his beard and Mr. Hurst met us and soon we were “going through customs”.

What an experience! Didn’t take too long, and at 12:30 we were on our way to the Argentina

Hotel in a taxi

The streets of Rio were jammed and never have I seen so many black umbrellas,

especially the men with the long black ones. The beautiful park with hedges cut like elephants,

bears, camels, etc.

We went to the Argentina Hotel and up to the Hurst’s room. They had brought mail for

me from Miriam Heindel, Dorothy and Frances Sloop and from Uncle Willie and Tony Dehler.

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My first mail – I couldn’t help but cry. We had lunch there – more fun. Mr. and Mrs. Hurst, and

Clemy, Stephen and Granny, Frances, Pauline, Kathryn and me. The hotel had a pretty

Christmas tree in the dining room. After dinner we went to Calegio Bennett where we are to stay

while in Rio.

We unpacked some, bathed, rested and dressed for dinner. After dinner Miss Hyde showed us

around the dormitory. Later Mrs. Hurst, Clemy, Stephen, Bernice Kenney and the other girls

came to our room. We had fun talking and eating ice cream.

Friday a.m., December 19

Wrote to Kenneth. Frances, Pauline, Katharine and I rode to town on the funny street car.

Frances went to the dentist and we walked around the block. We really attracted

attention with our boots and colored plastic hoods. Went to the post office and mailed letters

home and to Ken. We had a delicious club sandwich, chocolate milk shake and pie at the

Sorveteria Americana.

After lunch we walked down to the Delta Place. On the way met the captain. Katherine

squealed out and caused quite a commotion. We learned that the ship was to dock Saturday a.m.,

but we couldn’t get our things till Monday. The captain took a note to Ken for me, telling him

our address and phone number. We went home in the rain, had supper and to bed early.

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Saturday a.m., December 20

Still raining. Went to the town and to the Delta place. The captain was there. Katherine,

Bernice and I went to the boat. Thrill! Thrill! The steward went in and waked Ken for me, and

was he surprised! We arranged a meeting for 2:30 at the Delta place. Then we walked all the

way back down to the Americana for lunch. They went home and I walked all the way back

down to the Delta office. I was early so I had to walk up and down till Kenneth came. We

walked back down the Rio Branco and had a drink in front of the street cafe. So much fun.

He went with me out to the college on the street car and stayed till time for us to go out to the

North Conference house for supper. We went in a taxi, and he rode to town with us. After

supper he came out to the college again and stayed till after eleven. I’m sorry I didn’t insist that

he go home early because now he didn’t have any sleep, working from 12 to 8 a.m. He left

saying he would see me Monday.

Sunday, December 21

Went to the Union Church at Copacabana, an English speaking church. The minister,

Mr. Lezy, preached on Christmas or Else. The minister and his wife and Mr. and Mrs. Harris

came for Sunday dinner. In the afternoon we rode out to see the Dunas, English friends of

Frances and then along the beach. At 7:30 we went back to church to see the Christmas play,

“Why the Chimes Rang.” -

This charming musical combines an old Christmas folk story with new music that reminds us of

the true meaning of giving. The musical tells the story of a church that had the most amazing

chime of bells in its great ivory tower. According to a legend, on Christmas Eve, all the

townspeople would bring gifts for the Christ Child. When a very special gift had been given, the

chimes would ring sending forth the sweetest sound anyone had ever heard. Unfortunately, the

bells had been silent for many years. Things began to change, however, when a young girl

named Sara and her little brother journey to the church hoping to hear the chimes ring. – The

program and the Christmas music were too much for me. I cried and cried. After service they

sang carols around a lighted tree in the yard.

The diary stops here but the pictures do not. Here is a photo of the train that took her to next leg of her long trip to

the mission field.

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Appendix

Additional facts and photos regarding Martha’s trip that were not in her diary.

Venus

SS Del Santos started life as the USS Thurston (AP-77) and was a troop transport that served with the United States Navy during World War II. She was named after counties in Nebraska and

Washington. Thurston was laid down under Maritime Commission contract (MC hull 134) as SS Del

Santos on 9 December 1941 at Kearney, New Jersey, by the Federal Shipbuilding & Drydock

Company, for the Mississippi Shipping Company; launched on 4 April 1942; and delivered on 11 July 1942.

The ship was acquired by the Navy from the War Shipping Administration under a bare boat charter on 13 September 1942 and was renamed Dauphin and designated AP-77 on 16 September. However, to

avoid confusion with a Canadian ship named Dauphin, the ship was again renamed on 18 September,

this time as Thurston. Thurston was decommissioned and returned to the War Shipping Administration on 1 August 1946 and resumed the name Del Santos. She was struck from the Navy list on 28

August 1946. Del Santos was sold to the Waterman Steamship Company in 1948. The following year,

she was renamed Chickasaw. She remained in merchant service as Chickasaw until 7 February 1962 when she ran aground in thick fog on Santa Rosa Island off the coast of California.

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In the last month of 1947 there suddenly appeared, close to the setting sun, a truly great comet, the brightest to be observed

since Halley's comet made its latest spectacular return to perihelion in 1910. So many people saw the new comet at the same time that no one observer could he credited with the discovery. Following the practice of naming comets

alphabetically in the order of discovery in the current year, the new comet soon received the name of 1947n. It was, as its name indicated, the fourteenth, and, as it turned out, the last comet to be discovered in 1947.

Crossing-the-Line Ceremony or Initiation into King Neptune’s Court

A ceremony performed on board ships for passengers and crew crossing the equator

for the first time, known as (Slimy) Pollywogs. Traditionally, it is performed by one of

the ship's crew attired as King Neptune, wearing a golden crown and flowing

beard, and clasping a trident, sometimes including his first assistant Davy Jones

and her Highness Amphitrite and other dignitaries. King Neptune summons the

Pollywogs one by one who, after receiving various attentions and enduring

various initiations and ordeals, are tipped backwards into a bath of sea water,

where King Neptune's assistants ensure they receive a good ducking. The

initiates are then received into the kingdom of Neptune and henceforth known

as Shellbacks. Often times the Pollywogs are awarded a certificate or diploma.

Brahms' Bethlehem Lullaby lyrics

Long ago, there was born In the City of David

A sweet, holy Babe Who was Jesus our King

Angels sang at His birth, "Lullaby, Peace On Earth"

Angels sang at His birth, "Lullaby, Peace On Earth"

Jesus came as a Child From His Father in Heaven And has shown us the way

To be loving and kind While the stars sang above, "Lullaby, God Is Love"

While the stars sang above, "Lullaby, God Is Love"

Lullaby and goodnight

Thy mother's delight Bright angels beside The Baby abide

They will guard thee at rest, thou shalt wake on her breast They will guard thee at rest, thou shalt wake on her breast

Angels sang at His birth, "Lullaby, Peace On Earth" Angels sang at His birth, "Lullaby, Peace On Earth

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Postcards from Aunt Martha’s scrapbook

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The trams

Christ the Redeemer (Portuguese: Cristo Redentor, standard Brazilian Portuguese: [ˈkɾistu ʁedẽˈtoʁ], is a statue ofJesus Christ in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; considered the largest Art Deco statue in the world. It is 98 ft tall, not including its 26 ft pedestal, and its arms stretch 92 ft wide. It weighs 700 short tons), and is located at the peak of the (2,300 ft) Corcovado mountain in the Tijuca Forest National Park overlooking the city. A symbol of Brazilian Christianity, the statue has become an icon for Rio de Janeiro and Brazil. It is made of reinforced concrete and soapstone, and was constructed between 1922 and 1931.