PRSRT STDU.S. POSTAGE

PAIDUrban Call

URBAN CALL4265 Brownsboro Road Suite 225Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425Tel. (336) 759-7477FAX: (336) 759-7212E-mail: urbancall@smsi-net.com

The multicultural beauty-care source delivered to 100,000 readers.

Vol. 3, Issue 1

Urban Call —Beauty Salon andBarbershopEdition is distrib-uted to 100,000stylists nationallyand their patronsin the multicul-tural beauty careindustry. It isalso availablethrough theNational Beauty Culturists League(NBCL) state and local chapterswhose officers receive copies fordistribution. Thanks to the contin-ued sponsorship of Sally BeautyCo., we put our best foot forwardat multicultural professional hairand beauty shows and conferenceslike Bronner Brothers in Atlanta,Premiere Beauty Show and otherleading events. Our mission, asalways, is to be a bridge betweencosmetologists and their patrons,and a road for manufacturers anddistributors who meet the uniquehair and beauty care needs of peo-ple of color. Glad you can join uson the path.

Lafayette Jones Publisher

Bridgingthe beautyindustry

Black Beauty:

Show Time 8

Beauty Watch 7

Beauty and Skin Care Experts 6

Premiere Beauty ShowInside...

Renée R

eynold

s

CuttingEdge

Black Caucus

Opra

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Maya A

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Healthy Living — Every Day!4

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Explore the divine paths toinner and outer beauty as itrelates to hair, skin and spiritu-ality: The Beauty of Color Iman:The Ultimate Beauty Guide forSkin of Color by Iman; AndreTalks Hair! by Andre Walker;and Self-Seduction: YourUltimate Path to Inner andOuter Beauty by Mikki Taylor.

style and cultureURBAN CALL STAFF WRITER

t’s a sign of the times. The number of booksabout multicultural hair and beauty care con-

tinues to grow. Most discuss hair care in all itsaspects — natural or relaxed, colored or curled,extended, braided or locked. Others address theculture surrounding multicultural hair care.

Stylist Andre Walker, in his book Andre TalksHair, with a special message from Oprah Winfrey,provides page after page of fabulous photos ofwomen of all ages and skin tones. In The Beautyof Color — The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin ofColor, successful actress/model Iman revolution-izes the way women of color can think aboutbeauty and delivers a fresh, new approach tomakeup and skin care.

Beauty and cover editor of Essence magazine,Mikki Taylor, shares skin, hair and makeup tipsand writes from the vantage of a lifestyle coachin her book, Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Pathto Inner and Outer Beauty. She describes “self-seduction” as “a sense of loving ourselves in thehighest order by committing to what honors us,both within and without — not what moves usto be self-centered, but rather what allows us tobecome the empowered women we are called tobe on all levels.”

BLACK BEAUTY: STYLE AND CULTURE(CONT. ON PAGE 6)

I

For information on subscribing to this publication contact Urban Call — Beauty Salon andBarbershop edition at 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425.

©2006 Segmented Marketing Services Inc., 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425. Urban Call is published by SMSi as part of a strategic alliance with Segmented Marketing ServicesInc. (SMSi) and Piedmont Publishing, a Media General company. All rights reserved. Reproduction inwhole or in part of any material in this publication without the written permission of SMSi is expresslyprohibited. Publishers reserve the right to accept or reject all advertising matter.

SMSi, founded in 1978, is a Winston-Salem, N.C., minority-owned national marketing, promotion andpublishing company that specializes in helping major companies and organizations better serve ethniccustomers. This publication is distributed to 100,000 beauty salon and barber professionals and theirclients in the SMSi Beauty Salon and Barbershop Networks, through National Beauty Culturists’ League(NBCL) national officers, state presidents and chapter leaders, as well as to attendees of leading ethnicbeauty trade shows. SMSi distributes millions of free product samples, publications and consumer offersthrough its national networks of African-American and Hispanic churches, beauty salons, barbershops,entertainment venues and health-care networks. Urban CallTM and SMSiTM are registered trademarks ofSegmented Marketing Services Inc.

Publishers: Lafayette Jones, Sandra Miller Jones

Associate Publisher: Joseph Rodney Lawrence

Director of Client Services: Gerry Patton

Executive Editor: Alan Cronk

Editorial Director: Rose Walsh

Production Manager: Myra Wright

Designer: Renée Canada

Art Direction: 3CCreativeStaff Portrait Artist: Leo Rucker

Photo Editor: Suvondra Montgomery

Photographers: Michael Cunningham,Washington, D.C.Dorothy Lewis,Goldsboro, N.C.Elijah Lindsay,New York, N.Y.Jason Pitt,Winston-Salem, N.C.

Director of Operations: Constance Harris

Database Management andCirculation Manager: Tahnya Bowser

Editorial Assistants: BridgetteMiller Jones, Lori Lawson

Beauty Consultant: Jacqueline Cash,Jacqueline First Impressions

Warehouse and Shipping:Supervisor: Ric WoodsManager: Jordan Lash

Financial Services: Roslyn Hickman

4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225 ❍ Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425www.segmentedmarketing.com

FAX: (336) 759-7212 ❍ PHONE: (336) 759-7477

Vol. 3 Issue 1

URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Sally Beauty Co. has namedMichael G. Spinozzi as president

of Sally BeautySupply for theUnited Statesand Canada. Thisnew positionwill report toGaryWinterhalter,president ofSally Beauty Co.

and Beauty Systems Group. As president of Sally Beauty

Supply, Michael (Mike) Spinozziwill direct the store operations,merchandising/purchasing,

advertising, customer service,customer-relationship marketing,loyalty programs and public rela-tions. A retail veteran of 24years, Spinozzi will direct theoverall strategic direction for themore than 2,100 Sally Beautystores in the U.S. and Canada.His wide-ranging experienceincludes the food, drug, book,music and movie industries, wherehe has touched every aspect ofthese businesses, from store oper-ations and merchandising to mar-keting and distribution.

“We are pleased to welcomeMike to Sally Beauty,” said

Winterhalter, “and I know thathis extensive background andexpertise in a broad range ofareas will prove a great fit forSally and its continued success.”

Sally Beauty Company Inc. isthe world’s largest distributor ofprofessional beauty products tosalon professionals and retailcustomers. The company hasmore than 3,000 stores in theU.S., Puerto Rico, UnitedKingdom, Canada, Germany,Mexico and Japan. For moreinformation, visit www.sallybeauty.com or call 1-800-ASK-SALLY for store-locationinformation.

Page 2 URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

PRSRT STDU.S. POSTAGE

PAIDUrban Call

URBAN CALL4265 Brownsboro Road Suite 225Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425Tel. (336) 759-7477FAX: (336) 759-7212E-mail: urbancall@smsi-net.com

The multicultural beauty-care source delivered to 100,000 readers.

Vol. 3, Issue 1

Urban Call —Beauty Salonand BarbershopEdition is dis-tributed to100,000 stylistsnationally andtheir patrons inthe multicul-tural beauty-care industry. Itis also availablethrough the National BeautyCulturists League (NBCL) stateand local chapters whose officersreceive copies for distribution.Thanks to the continued sponsor-ship of Sally Beauty Co., we putour best foot forward at multicul-tural professional hair and beautyshows and conferences likeBronner Brothers in Atlanta andother leading events. Our mis-sion, as always, is to be a bridgebetween cosmetologists and theirpatrons, and a road for manufac-turers and distributors who meetthe unique hair and beauty-careneeds of people of color. Gladyou can join us on the path.

Lafayette Jones Publisher

Bridgingthe beautyindustry

Black Beauty:

Show Time 8

National BeautyCulturists League 7

Premiere Beauty ShowInside...

Renée R

eynold

s

CuttingEdge

Black Caucus

Opra

h W

infr

ey

Maya A

ngelo

u

Healthy Living — Every Day!4

Honora

ble

Mel W

att

9 10

For our online edition, visitwww.smsibeautynetwork.com

Explore the divine paths to innerand outer beauty as it relates tohair, skin and spirituality: TheBeauty of Color Iman: The UltimateBeauty Guide for Skin of Color byIman; Andre Talks Hair! by AndreWalker; and Self-Seduction: YourUltimate Path to Inner and OuterBeauty by Mikki Taylor.

style and cultureURBAN CALL STAFF WRITER

t’s a sign of the times. The number of booksabout multicultural hair and beauty care con-

tinues to grow. Most discuss hair care in all itsaspects — natural or relaxed, colored or curled,extended, braided or locked. Others address theculture surrounding multicultural hair care.

Stylist Andre Walker, in his book Andre TalksHair, with a special message from Oprah Winfrey,provides page after page of fabulous photos ofwomen of all ages and skin tones. In The Beautyof Color — The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin ofColor, successful actress/model Iman revolution-izes the way women of color can think aboutbeauty and delivers a fresh, new approach tomakeup and skin care.

Beauty and cover editor of Essence magazine,Mikki Taylor, shares skin, hair and makeup tipsand writes from the vantage of a lifestyle coachin her book, Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Pathto Inner and Outer Beauty. She describes “self-seduction” as “a sense of loving ourselves in thehighest order by committing to what honors us,both within and without — not what moves usto be self-centered, but rather what allows us tobecome the empowered women we are called tobe on all levels.”

BLACK BEAUTY (CONTINUED ON PAGE 7)

I

Sally Beauty Supply names new president

Spinozzi

By Gerry PattonURBAN CALL WRITER

Sally Beauty Co. has estab-lished an annual endowment togive 10 scholarships of $1,000each to National BeautyCulturists League (NBCL) mem-bers who meet scholarship crite-ria. The goal is to helpstrengthen the network, furtherexcellence in the profession, andprovide opportunities for train-ing in product knowledge andtechnology.

Scholarships will be awardedat the annual NBCL Conventionand Trade Show to be held July21–28, 2006, at the Renaissancein Cleveland, Ohio.

2006 SALLY BEAUTY SUPPLY CO. ANDNBCL SCHOLARSHIP RECIPIENTS

Ricardo Murphy, Colorado Springs, Colo.

Leroy Charles Jackson, Denver, Colo.

Larry Weekly, Denver, Colo.

LaQuita D. Johnson, Denver, Colo.

Tiffinee Keeton, Oakland, Calif.

Tori Pinkney, Denver, Colo.

Marcia Blake, Aurora, Colo.

Beverly Johnson-Houston, Dallas, Texas

Meka La Pele-Futrell, Ahoskie, N.C.

Kisha Collier, Torrance, Calif.

ANONYMOUS NBCL SCHOLARSHIP DONOR RECIPIENT

Latoya Rogers, Mount Vernon, N.Y.

Sally Beauty sponsors NBCL scholarship

Sally magazine’s Color Me Beautiful provides useful tips and adviceURBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

If you’re looking for multicul-tural hair and beauty care prod-ucts, be sure to stop at your nearest Sally Beauty Supplystore. And while you’re there,pick up an issue of Sally maga-zine, which is distributed inmore than 2,100 Sally storesnationwide. The Color MeBeautiful column by multiculturalhair and beauty care expertLafayette Jones covers topics of interest to men and women of color and carries useful tipsand advice.

In one column on hot irons,Jones quotes National Beauty

Culturist’s League (NBCL) educatorand stylist Dr. Brenda Kynard,who advises that “press and curl”irons, because of their higherheating levels, “should be usedonly on virgin hair.” She alsosays they can be useful for chil-dren who are “too young forchemical relaxers.”

Look for upcoming columns todiscuss the wide selection ofbooks that cover multiculturalhair and beauty care. Others willtell the story of business pio-neers who helped create productsthat address the specific hair andbeauty care needs of men andwomen of color.

Page 4 URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Photo courtesy of Diggit EntertainmentSinger and dancer Tionne “T-Boz” Watkins stays upbeatwhile dealing with sickle cell disease. She and her daughter,Chase, enjoy a quiet moment.

URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Sickle cell disease, primarily foundin people of African and African-Caribbean descent, is an inherited dis-order that leads to abnormal hemoglo-bin, the substance that carries oxygenin red blood cells. An abnormal hemo-globin level causes soft and round redblood cells to become hard andpointed. These abnormally shaped redcells restrict the flow of blood to

bones and various organs like the kid-neys and lungs. Currently there is nocure for sickle cell disease. Problemscaused by sickle cell disease include:

❏ Impaired blood circulation

❏ Severe pain episodes

❏ Damage to the body’s tissues

and organs

❏ A shortened life span

While sickle cell disease affectsabout 100,000 people in the UnitedStates who are predominately African-American, more than 2 million maycarry the sickle cell trait. Individualswho have the trait have inherited onlyone gene for sickle cell (sickle cell dis-ease is caused by two sickle cell genes)and are generally healthy. However, ifboth mother and father carry the trait,

there is a 25 percent chance of havinga baby with sickle cell disease witheach pregnancy according to the book,A Guide to Sickle Cell Disease, by Dr.Graham Serjeant. Screening for adultsis recommended so they can makeinformed decisions about family plan-ning. Newborns are screened for sicklecell and other disorders within hoursof birth in most states.Th

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Dise

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lends her voice toT-BozBy Blanche CarterURBAN CALL WRITER

Pop star Tionne “T-Boz” Watkins knows wellthe words “pain” and “perseverance.” The 36-year-old singer and dancer, who rose to famewith the R&B group TLC, was diagnosed withsickle cell disease at the age of 7. Her illnesshas landed her in the hospital for days, evenweeks at a time, including one four-month stay.

“Sickle cell [pain] is very excruciating pain,”says the recording artist. “It feels like somebodyis stabbing you over and over again,” she saidin a USA Weekend interview.

There were days when T-Boz couldn’t walk,much less perform. Having a baby is high risk fora sickle cell patient, but through aggressive med-ical care and healthy living, she gave birth to a

daughter, Chase. Throughout her career with TLC— which included singing with Lisa “Left Eye”Lopes until her death in a car accident severalyears ago, and Rozonda “Chilli” Thomas — T-Bozhas tried to stay upbeat and continue with herwork. TLC albums have sold more than 27 millioncopies and nine million singles (Waterfalls, Creepand No Scrubs).

Adults need to be tested“I feel very strongly about the need for people

of child-bearing age who might have the sicklecell trait to be tested and counseled,” says T-Boz,who is a spokeswoman for the Sickle Cell DiseaseAssociation of American (SCDAA). She hasappeared in their 60-minute documentary, SickleCell: The Forgotten Disease.

Sickle Cell Disease awareness

By Rose WalshURBAN CALL STAFF REPORTER

Dr. Kristy Woods, a nationally recog-nized authority on sickle cell disease,heads the Maya Angelou ResearchCenter on Minority Health at WakeForest University Health Sciences(www1.wfubmc.edu/minorityhealth) inWinston-Salem, N.C. The center wasestablished by the internationallyrenowned writer Maya Angelou toaddress the health issues of African-Americans, Hispanics and other peopleof color. It provides education andawareness about diseases like sickle celldisease as well as other health prob-lems like HIV/AIDS, diabetes, hyper-tension, heart disease and cancer. One

conference hosted at the center wasCancer Prevention in UnderrepresentedMinorities: How Do We Make it Work? Ithighlighted breast, prostate and lungcancer prevention programs that havebeen successful. The center has workedwith local Hispanic radio and newspa-pers to spread health information fromWake Forest University Baptist MedicalCenter physicians, staff and other com-munity health-care professionals toNorth Carolina’s growing Hispanic popu-lation. Angelou is a professor ofAmerican studies at Wake ForestUniversity in Winston-Salem. Woodstaught at Meharry Medical College inNashville, Tenn., and was director of itssickle cell center before being namedthe first leader of the Angelou Center.

Woods, Winfrey photos courtesy of Lou Davis/WFUHS PhotographyAngelou photo courtesy of Random House, Hallelujah! The Welcome Table

Dr. Kristy Woods, left, head of the Maya Angelou Research Center on Minority Healthat Wake Forest University Health Sciences, poet and author Maya Angelou, and TVtalk-show star Oprah Winfrey raised $127,000 for the center at the St. Peter’sChurch fundraiser in Winston-Salem, N.C.

Maya Angelou Centertackles health issues of African-Americans

Page 6 URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Beauty and Skin Care ExpertsSome beauty books are geared specifically to African-American

women, like Sam Fine’s book, Fine Beauty: Beauty Basics andBeyond for African-American Women. He discusses makeup toolsincluding the many varieties of brushes used in applying cosmet-ics and other tips on using powder, eye shadow, blush, lipstick,eyeliner, mascara, shaping eyebrows and attaching false eye-lashes. Fine shares his photo diary, which includes stories of work-ing with his star-studded clientele including Patti LaBelle, NaomiCampbell, Brandy and Vanessa Williams, among others.

If you are among the nearly half of the United States popula-tion that share the hallmarks of skin of color, you are likely tohave received confusing advice — or no advice at all — abouthow to care for your skin. Finally, Beautiful Skin of Color: AComprehensive Guide to Asian, Olive, and Dark Skin unlocks theparticular secrets of your skin and provides the answers you'vebeen searching for. Dermatologists Dr. Jeanine Downie and Dr.Fran Cook-Bolden, along with Barbara Nevins Taylor, an award-winning reporter on skin and hair issues, offer clear, specificadvice to help you achieve and maintain a healthy, gorgeouscomplexion.

Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Path to Inner and Outer Beautycovers skin, hair, makeup, health and weight-loss tips. (“Watchyour portions — in general, a single serving should be about thesize of your palm.”) Author Mikki Taylor has been with Essencemagazine, which celebrates its 38th anniversary this year, formore than 20 years. It is the oldest and most well-known maga-zine for African-American women.

While many booksfocus on the how-toof hair, several addressthe culture surround-ing it. Craig Marberry’sbook Cuttin’ Up: Witand Wisdom from Black Barber Shops(Doubleday, 2005) is acollection of 50 inter-views distilled from alifetime of listening tofunny anecdotes andstories in black bar-bershops. One of hisinterviews is with

Oprah’s father, Vernon Winfrey, a barber in Nashville,Tenn. He also interviewed Bernard Mathis, the barberwho once tried to convince Don King, the famous box-ing promoter, to give his sometimesstartling stand-up hair a cut.

Michael Cunningham, famous for hisportraits of black women in theirchurch hats (Crowns, Doubleday, 2000,written with Marberry) has producedanother treasure trove of pictures inQueens: Portraits of Black Women andTheir Fabulous Hair (Doubleday, 2005).Teaming with Cunningham to write thenarrative is George Alexander. SandraMiller Jones, founder of SegmentedMarketing Services Inc. (SMSi), tells her

experience with hair at Howard University inWashington, D.C. As a sophomore, shenoticed that students at this historicallyblack college were at first “anti-natural”—not liking the look of the afro. But when R&Bsingers like James Brown sang I’m Black andI’m Proud, and Howard students like fierycivil-rights leader Stokely Carmichael stood

on cafeteria tables givingspeeches, “attitudes aboutracial pride were beingaltered,” says Jones. “Bythe time I was a senior,the homecoming queenhad a natural.” Other women fea-tured in the book include TonyaLewis Lee, wife of movie makerSpike Lee (Malcolm X and She’sGotta Have It) and author ofGotham Diaries (Hyperion, 2005), who talks about her natural

blondish/reddish hair, andShelia Bridges, interior dec-orator and TV show hostwho speaks about losing herhair — a condition calledalopecia.

Queens includes 50 black-and-white photos and per-sonal narratives of womenfrom the U.S., Africa andEngland. A wide variety oflooks are shown, including“fantasy hair”— where cre-

ative boundaries are wide. Jennelle Byron illustratesthe category with hair made up on the top of her headto look like the Twin Towers of the former World TradeCenter in New York City. It is her tribute to a familymember who was killed along with 3,000 otherAmericans on Sept. 11, 2001, when an attack broughtboth towers crashing down.

Cosmetologists who are looking to passthe state exam may find Toni Love’s bookuseful — Tips to Passing the CosmetologyStateboard (sic) Exam. Love self-publishedthe book that carries basic informationmost state boards require. Love, formerlydirector of continuing education for DudleyProducts and a Sally Beauty Co. platformartist, established Toni Love’s TrainingCenter in Moundville, Ala., in 2002. “It isthe only advanced training center for

cosmetologists in the state,” said Love.The school specializes in small classeswith individualized training. Love is alsothe author of The World of Wigs, Weaves & Extensions. See her Web site at www.tonilove.com or call (205) 371-8950 formore information.

Another book for cosmetologists is SalonSuccess (Nolas Publishing, 2005), by styl-ist and educator Julia Smith. Call (312)363-8000 for more information.

Natural HairBooks on natural hairstyles that don’t require

chemical relaxers are numerous. Nekhena Evans’Hairlocking: Everything You Need to Know: African,Dread & Nubian Locks covers 10 misconceptionsabout locks, among them — that you can growlocks fast and that locked hair is not versatile.“Locked hair can be worn in any style. For exam-ples, braided, twisted, crimped, pinned up, rolledare all possibilities.” She also explains the differ-ence between locks and dreadlocks: “Dreadlocks areorganic [hair is left in a natural state and nothingis done to it], and African locks are cultivated.What they have in common is that both are natural(chemical-free), Africentric (sic), and are usuallyrooted in a sense of spirituality, consciousness andcultural pride.”

Pamela Ferrell also covers the subject of naturalhair in Let’s Talk Hair: Every Black Woman’s PersonalConsultation for Healthy Growing Hair. In it she dis-cusses the need for good conditioners. “Hair condi-tioners are like lotion to the hair. Conditioners weremade to do what sebum [oil from the hair folliclein the scalp] does naturally — provide a protectivelubricant to the hair to make the scalp supple andthe hair pliable. Conditioners with natural oils giveluster to the hair shaft, making it appear glossy. Agood conditioner should disappear when handsare rubbed together.”

Cosmetology TrainingThe Culture in Multicultural

BLACK BEAUTY: STYLE AND CULTURE (CONT. FROM COVER)

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Page 7URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

We have always knownthat there is somethingunique about the ability ofblack women to thrive andachieve. Now the Hunter-Miller Group research firm,which publishes MarketSnapshot, a compilation ofmulticultural statistics,proves it with some num-bers. The report notes thatblack women are more likely thanwomen of other races to be busi-ness owners. “Over 365,000 busi-nesses are owned by blackfemales,” says the research. Thereport goes on to say that theincome of all black women is 49percent of the black population’stotal income, while white andHispanic women account for only33 percent of the total income fortheir races.

“African-American womenrepresent a powerful consumergroup,” says Pepper Miller,president of Hunter-Miller.“These women are fashiontrendsetters who haveincreased their spending onclothing and accessories by 31percent between 1999 and2000.” They spend more thana billion dollars a year onhair-care products, says

Datamonitor. Black women are themeans “for reaching the total blackmarket, which has substantial andincreasing spending power,” says thereport. It cites the importance of“targeted media and grassrootsefforts in churches, black organiza-tions and the community” to reachthis consumer.

Contact the Hunter-Miller Groupat (773) 363-7420; www.huntermillergroup.com.

Multicultural consumers are a grow-ing part of the U.S. economy, andtheir numbers are increasing everyyear. African-Americans, Hispanicsand Asians number around 30 percentof the U.S. population, and by mid-century, those numbers are expectedto be at 50 percent. Their buyingpower is also increasing. The SeligCenter at the University of Georgiaestimates that African-American buy-ing power will reach $965 billion by2009. The Hispanic total will reach $992 bil-lion, and the Asian-American total will reach$528 billion.

Marketers are learning that some of thebest ways to reach this consumer are through

nontraditional venues — churches,beauty salons and barbershops, andcultural events. Segmented MarketingServices Inc. (SMSi) reaches 40,000salon professionals in black andHispanic beauty and barbershops inits beauty salon and barbershop net-works, which serve nearly 3.25 mil-lion consumers. The organizationalso has an outreach to 8,000African-American families consistingof nearly 3 million consumers who

belong to the church family network.

To find out how to join SMSi’s commu-nity of networks, visit www.segmentedmarketing.com.

Sandra Miller-Jones

SMSiFounding

Chair

JosephRodney

LawrenceSMSi

Executive Vice President

Face of American consumers is changingBlack women are becoming entrepreneurs, trendsetters

The history of the multicultural hair and beauty-careindustry is often considered to begin with Madam C.J.Walker, who in the early 1900s created one of the first suc-cessful, widely marketed products to meet the hair-careneeds of African-American women. Her story is told in thebook, On Her Own Ground — The Life and Times of MadamC.J. Walker, written by her great-great granddaughter, A’leliaPerry Bundles. Walker became the first female of any race tobecome a selfmade millionaire in the United States. In the30s Chicago cosmetics entrepreneur S.B. Fuller had a dreamto create many millionaires by sharing the fruits of laborfrom his door-to-door sales company, Fuller Products. Hisoldest child, daughter Mary Fuller Casey, tells his story inS.B. Fuller: Pioneer in Black Economic Development. CornellMcBride, a charter member of the American Health andBeauty Aids Institute (AHBAI) founded two companies —

M&M Products (which cre-ated a product that pre-vented breakage and madethe afro more manageable)and McBride ResearchLaboratories. His book, ACut Above: How the ManWho Gave the World the AfroMade $$ Millions!, was pub-lished in 2006.

Other black businessmenin Chicago, inspired byFuller’s example, includedGeorge H. Johnson, founderof Johnson Products, whichintroduced Ultra-Sheen as a

relaxer for professional use.When the companylaunched an at-home Ultra-Sheen relaxer kit, ittook the industry by storm.Johnson’s was the firstAfrican-American- ownedcompany to be listed onthe New York StockExchange. Both GeorgeJohnson and CornellMcBride were charter mem-bers of AHBAI, an associa-tion of minority-ownedbeauty industry manufac-turing companies that wasfounded in 1981.

Joe L. Dudley, Sr., chief executive officer of Dudley Productsand an AHBAI member, traces his success to Fuller Products, acompany in which he and Eunice Mosely Dudley both worked.They went on to co-found Dudley Products in the ‘60s. Today,the Dudleys and their three adult children, Joe Dudley Jr.;Ursula Dudley Oglesby and Genea Dudley, are actively involvedin running the N.C.-based company. Dudley tells his businessstory in Walking by Faith: I Am, I Can & I Will.

The late John H. Johnson, who died in August, 2005, isbest known as the founder of Ebony and Jet magazines. Buthe too got into the beauty business with makeup and hair-care brands (Duke for men, Raveen for women). In his auto-biography, Succeeding Against the Odds, he tells how hefounded Fashion Fair Cosmetics so that the models in theJohnson Publishing Co.’s Fashion Fair tour would have appropriate makeup.

Children’s Hair CareMichele N-K Collison gives a lot of great

advice in It’s All Good Hair: The Guide to Stylingand Grooming Black Children’s Hair. “Our chil-dren come in a rainbow of hues and with alldifferent types of hair — curly, kinky, wavy,straight, short, long, relaxed, locked. But all ofour children’s hair is beautiful, and we mustbegin to tell our children so,” says Collison. Shediscusses braiding, locks, simple twists, flattwists, double-stranded twists with ponytail andother styles. For parents who want to relax theirchildren’s hair, Collison says a commitmentmust be made. “Relaxers need regular mainte-nance. Don’t think that once you relax yourchild’s hair that you’re done. She must get regu-lar touchups to keep her hair looking healthy.... Hair breakage can result from waiting toolong between relaxer retouches.”

History Makers

BLACK BEAUTY: BLACK BEAUTY: STYLE AND CULTURE (CONT. FROM PAGE 6)

By Suvondra MontgomeryURBAN CALL WRITER

Shows, dates and locations are subject tochange on this 2006–2007 calendar. Callor check the Web site to confirm a date.

American Health & Beauty Aids Institute(AHBAI)Proud Lady ShowMidyear ConferenceAug. 28–30, 2006New Red Rock ResortLas Vegas, Nev.April 2007Tinley Park Convention CenterTinley Park, Ill.Contact: Geri Jones, Executive Director(708) 333-8740E-mail: gjonesahbai@sbcglobal.net Web site: www.proudlady.org

Afro Hair & Beauty ShowMay 27–28, 2007Alexandra Palace Way London, EnglandContact: Verna McKensie, Event Manager011 44 207-498-1795E-mail: info@afrohairshow.com Web site: www.afrohairshow.com

Beauty Expo Trade ShowJan. 22–23, 2007Riviera Hotel Convention CenterLas Vegas, Nev.Contact: Ann Park, Marketing Director(314) 454-1112E-mail: btexpo@yahoo.com Web site: www.beautyexpousa.com

Beauty Revolution LAJan. 28–29, 2007Los Angeles Convention CenterLos Angeles, Calif.Contact: Tom Berger & Associates(602) 569-9039E-mail: todd@tombergerassociates.com Web site: www.tombergerassociates.com

Bonners International Gold Hair & Trade ShowNov. 10–12, 2006Long Beach Queen MaryDome & HangerLong Beach, Calif.Contact: Richard Bonner,President(310) 603-0731E-mail: bonnerhairshow@verizon.net

Bronner Brothers Hair ShowsSummer 2006Aug. 5–8, 2006Atlanta, Ga.Seminars by the SeaOct. 28–Nov. 2, 2006Cruise to Grand Cayman and OchoRios, JamaicaWinter 2007Feb. 17–19, 2007Atlanta, Ga.Midyear 2007May 5–7, 2007Baltimore, Md.

Summer 2007Aug. 11–13, 2007Atlanta, Ga.Contact: Janet Wallace, Show Manager(800) 547-7469E-mail: bbshow@bronnerbros.com Web site: www.bronnerbros.com

Carolina Trade ShowJune 2007Charlotte, N.C.Contact: Bobby Benet, Show Director(800) 385-5535E-mail: benetinc@aol.comWeb site: www.hairsymposium.com

Chicago Midwest Beauty ShowMarch 3–5, 2007Donald E. Stephens Convention CenterRosemont, Ill.Contact: Paul Dykstra, CEO(312) 321-6809E-mail: cmbs@isnow.com Web site: www.isnow.com

Cosmoprof North AmericaJuly 16–18, 2006Mandalay BayLas Vegas, Nev.Contact: Melissa Coe(800) 557-3356E-mail: Melissa@probeautyassociation.orgWeb site: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Golden Scissors ShowJuly 16, 2006Navy PierChicago, Ill.July 30, 2006Camelot CenterUpper Marlboro, Md.Nov. 5, 2006Constitution HallWashington, D.C.Nov. 4, 2007Constitution HallWashington, D.C.Contact: Glynn Jackson, Creator(202) 452-7445E-mail: glynn@goldenscissorsawards.com Web site: www.goldenscissorsawards.com orwww.fashionjackson.com

Hair Etc. Beauty & Health ExpoJuly 29–31, 2006Gaillard Municipal AuditoriumCharleston, S.C.July 29–30, 2007Charleston, S.C.Contact: Tia Brewer-Footman, MarketingDirector(866) 365-3976E-mail: tia@myhairetcmag.com Web site: www.myhairetcmagazine.com

Hair WarsJuly 30, 2006Bert’s Warehouse TheatreDetroit, Mich.Nov. 2006Contact: David Humphries, Show Producer (313) 534-8318E-mail: hairwars@ameritech.net

Hispanic Health & Beauty Care/General MerchandiseAug. 23–25, 20006Renaissance Houston HotelHouston, TexasContact: Melinda Hall(773) 281-5276Web site: www.ecrm-epps.com

International Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa ConferenceOct. 7–9, 2006Orlando/OC Convention CenterOrlando, Fla.June 2–4, 2007Las Vegas Convention CenterLas Vegas, Nev.Sept. 29–Oct. 1, 2007Orlando/OC Convention CenterOrlando, Fla.Contact: Jonnell Gailey(800) 624-3248E-mail: info@iecsc.com Web site: www.iecsc.com

International Beauty ShowMarch 11–13, 2007 Jacob Javits Convention CenterNew York, N.Y.Contact: Mike Boyce, Show Manager (212) 895-8200E-mail: mboyce@questex.com Web site: www.ibsnewyork.com

International Hair and Nail ShowSept. 17–18, 2006 Cook Convention CenterMemphis, Tenn.May 20–21, 2007Meadowlands Expo Center

Secaucus, N.J.Sept. 9–10, 2007Cook Convention CenterMemphis, Tenn.Contact: Rudy Armstrong/Sylvia Callaway (800) 676-7469E-mail: sylvia@ihshow.com Web site: www.ihshow.com

International SPA AssociationSept. 25–26, 2006The Hotel HersheyHershey, Pa.Nov. 6–9, 2006The Venetian Resort Hotel CasinoLas Vegas, Nev.Nov. 12–15, 2007Gaylord Palms Resort & Convention CenterKissimmee, Fla.Contact: International SPA Association(888) 651-ISPAE-mail: ispa@ispastaff.com Web site: www.experienceispa.com

National Beauty Culturists League (NBCL)87th Annual Convention & Trade ShowJuly 21–28, 2006RenaissanceCleveland, Ohio88th Annual Convention &Trade ShowJuly 20–28, 2007Hyatt Fair LakesFair Lakes CircleFairfax, Va. 22033Contact: Dr. Katie B.Catalon, National President(202) 332-2695E-mail: drlindsay@nbcl.org Web site: www.nbcl.org

Premiere Show GroupAug. 27–28, 2006Orlando/Orange County Convention CenterOrlando, Fla.June 10–11, 2007Orlando, Fla.Sept. 30–Oct. 1, 2007Birmingham, Ala.Contact: Lynn Finch,Creative Director(407) 265-3131Web site: www.premiereshows.com

World Natural Hair, Braiding & Weaving SeminarJuly 16–18, 2006Amerisuites HotelAtlanta, Ga.Contact: Taliah Waajid(877) 480-9328E-mail: asktaliah@naturalhair.org Web site: www.naturalhair.org

Pretty Girls Fashion AwardsAug. 13, 2006Chicago, Ill.Contact: Carol Dunbar, producer/director(773) 752-8563E-mail: dunbardiva@sbcglobal.net

Your Beauty NetworkSept. 23–25, 2006Hyatt Regency Newport BeachNewport Beach, Calif.(866) 364-4926Web site: www.ybn.com

Contact Joseph Lawrence at Urban Call withnews on your show: jrlawremce@smsi-net.com.

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Page 8 URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Page 9URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Andre ChristburgAndre Christburg is publisher of Style Q Hair Magazine, a magazine that show-

cases the work of stylists across the country. He also publishes The Hot AtlantaHair Directory. Christburg can be reached at (770) 498-7492 or by e-mail atstyleq@hotmail.com.

Images courtesy of Style Q Hair Magazine

Elijah Lindsay

Elijah Lindsay is a former professional modeland actor turned professional photographer.Lindsay can be reached at (212) 864-2635,(917) 952-4997 (cell) or by e-mail atinfo@elindsaysite.com. View his work online at www.elindsaysite.com.

Images courtesy of Elijah Lindsay

By Dr. Katie B. CatalonSPECIAL TO URBAN CALL

Black beauty professionals are a largeand important business segment, accordingto the United States Census Departmentand independent industry research con-ducted among beauty salon and barbershopowners and operators by SegmentedMarketing Services Inc. (SMSi). There areabout 120,000–125,000 black beauty pro-fessionals in the country who serve a grow-ing customer base of 37.5 million blackclients. What this means for our cosmetol-ogy business is more customers — morewomen and men of color seeking profes-sional services to meet their unique needsin hair and beauty care.

Beauty and barber professionals arealways looking for ways to advance theirbusinesses and careers. One of the bestways to increase your trade knowledge and network of pro-fessional friends is to join the National Beauty Culturists’League (NBCL). As our motto states, there is “Strength inUnity.” Founded in 1919, NBCL is an association of 8,000cosmetologists, estheticians, barbers and nail technicianswith members in 42 states. It is one of the oldest and

most prestigious trade organizations forcosmetologists and allied industries in theworld.

There are also opportunities for highereducation. The National Institute ofCosmetology is the only accredited insti-tution nationally that offers NBCL mem-bers higher degree programs (B.A., M.A.and Ph.D.) in cosmetology. Members alsoearn degree credits by attending educa-tional workshops at state, regional andnational conventions held every year. AtNBCL’s annual conventions and tradeshows, members gather to learn about thenewest trends, techniques and productsavailable to professionals in our industry.NBCL members get a 5 percent discountat Sally Beauty Supply.

Join NBCL today. Small-business mem-bership is $200. Corporate membership is $500. Call us at(202) 332-2695 or visit www.nbcl.org.

Dr. Katie B. Catalon is president of the National BeautyCulturists’ League (NBCL), headquartered in Washington,D.C. Its next convention will be July 22–29 in Cleveland.

Page 10 URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

It’s been my pleasure to serve thebeauty industry for 20 years now. I havehad the privilege of working in all aspectsof management, including buying, productdevelopment, asset management, inven-

tory control, advertis-ing and packagedesign. My team and Ihave the responsibilityto ensure that anyproduct sold at SallyBeauty Supply Co. istop of the line quality— we will not acceptanything less than thebest.

Sally prides itself on having the mostextensive selection of products availableanywhere — not only for African-Americanwomen, but for all women of color. Thiscommitment to the customer guaranteesthat she will find the widest selection ofthe highest quality products in all 2,200Sally Beauty Supply stores in the UnitedStates.

We have been actively involved in craft-ing the new line, Silk Elements. In addi-tion to the extensive testing that is donefor a product launch, we try out the newproduct on ourselves, so that we have per-sonally tested anything new that will beoffered to the public. The manufacturerhas been very responsive to our requestsfor changes, modifications and productsthat we would like to see added to theline. We are pleased to report that we arehaving a hard time keeping the product onthe shelves — it has been flying out thedoors. Silk Elements is a hit!

We are working on another line of prod-ucts under the Silk Elements brand namecalled “Revive and Restore.” This is a lineof organic botanical treatments and con-ditioners, designed for the customerwho desires to maintain or restorehealthy hair with natural ingredients.

As the largest purveyor of professionalbeauty supplies in the world, Sally Beautyhas more than 2,100 stores that offer thesalon professional and the consumer,between salon visits, more than 5,000salon-quality products for hair, nail andskin care. For more information, visit ourWeb site at www.sallybeauty.com or call800-ASK-SALLY for the store nearest you.

Renée Reynolds in the director of mer-chandising for ethnic and multiculturalproducts for Sally Beauty Co.

Renée Reynolds

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Founded in 1981 to represent theethnic health and beauty care indus-try, the American Health and BeautyAids Institute (AHBAI), was createdfor black-owned hair companies.Pictured (standing, left to right) arefounder Lafayette Jones, who was

then president of Smith, Jones &Associates, an association

management firm and firstAHBAI executive director

(1981–1986); FrankDavies, World ofCurls; Comer

Cottrell, Pro-Line Corp.; thelate Nathaniel

H. Bronner Sr. of Bronner Brothersand the late Marcus Griffith ofHairlox; Edward Gardner, Soft Sheen;Cornell McBride Sr., McBride ResearchLaboratories: and Ken Wibecan,Smith, Jones & Associates. Seatedfrom left to right are GeorgeJohnson, Johnson Products — thefirst chairman of AHBAI; Henry

Bundles, Madame C.J. Walker Co.;James Cottrell, Pro-Line Corp.; thelate Freddie Luster, Luster Products;and Dr. Austin Curtis, CurtisLaboratories. Not pictured is chartermember Melvin Calloway, 6 N 1

Products. In 1982, the Proud Ladysymbol was developed and affixed toproducts whose companies work tosupport the black community. GeriJones is the current executive direc-tor, (708) 333-8740, www.ahbai.org

AHBAI FORMED FOR HAIRCARE MANUFACTURERS

Sophisticate’s Black Hair Stylesand Care Guide features “LinkingPros” in every issue.

The documentary film, My NappyROOTS: A Journey Through Our Hair-tage, traces the history and cultureof African-American hair from ancientAfrica to the present. ReginaKimbell, president of Virgin MOONproductions is the film’s executiveproducer who called on actress KimFields, icon Lafayette Jones, the lateentrepreneur Art Dyson and others toprovide historical insights.

There is strength in our unity