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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Growing native plants by seed………………………………………………………………………….…..….3

Purdue University protocols for propagating by cuttings……………………………………......5

“Water” you doing with your water?........................................................................................... .17

Native Bees……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..19

Waterwise and native plant resources…………………………………………………………………....20

Demonstration gardens……………………………………………………………………………………….....21

Indoor Light Garden Construction……………………………………………………………………….....22

Building a modified mist bench……………………………………………………………………………...23

Plant Fact Sheets…………………………………………………………………………………………………….29

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Growing Utah Native Plants from Seed Susan E. Meyer

Introduction

The purpose of this propagation workshop is to introduce you to some plants that are

not ordinarily found in gardens, but that can be very beautiful additions to home landscapes,

particularly waterwise home landscapes. It will also provide you with the opportunity to become

familiar with the process of development from seed to plant for plants that are adapted to

survival in the real world of Utah‟s semiarid climate and rocky, infertile soils. Native plants are

enjoyed by many people in the wild, yet they rarely think about how good these plants would

look in a landscape setting. You will have the opportunity to learn to grow some of these

plants from seed, and hopefully to enjoy the plants you have produced after transplanting them

into your own garden.

Growing Tips

While there are many similarities between growing native plants from seed and growing

more familiar garden plants such as vegetables and annual flowers, there are some important

differences.

The first thing you will notice about these growing containers is that, unlike flats used for

vegetables and cultivated flowers, these containers are much deeper than wide. This helps

the plants develop the long roots they will need to become established and drought-hardy as

quickly as possible. First developed for forest tree seedlings, these containers and others of

similar shape, such as Ray Leach containers have proven ideal for most Utah native plants.

Drought-hardy natives generally invest much more in root than plants that require a moist

growing environment. These containers give them room to do that. The book planters have

the added advantage that you can open them to examine the roots or to remove the seedlings

at out planting time. And the channeled sides of these „root-trainer books‟ direct the roots to

grow downward, not to spiral as they would in traditional shallow, smooth-sided containers.

Another thing that natives need even as small seedlings is STRONG LIGHT. In fact,

there are three things that native seedlings really need most: light, light, and LIGHT. Please

Don‟t think that a winter windowsill will be adequate. Fluorescent shop lights--the kind you can

get at K-Mart for ten dollars or so, will work great, and will also give you a good place to grow

vegetable transplants. We have chosen a small flat size so that you will be able to provide

good light. The light should be placed only an inch or two above soil level and raised as the

plants grow. If fluorescent tubes are more than a year old, they should be replaced with new

ones--you can use the old ones in an application where maximum intensity isn‟t so important.

Our soil mix is made up mostly of peat moss, vermiculite, sand, and calcined

montmorillonite clay (turface or kitty litter)--regular potting mix will have to be cut with coarse

materials like sand or turface, as many of these seedlings are susceptible to damping off if the

soil is too soggy. We have used a slow release fertilizer (Osmocote) in the mix, so you will not

have to worry about fertilizing during the three or four months the plants will live in these

containers. If you make your own mix, any fertilizer that works for vegetable seedlings will do

just as well.

The new seedlings must be kept moist but not soggy--overwatering is a serious risk.

Because of the container shape, the soil dries out slowly, especially when the plants are small

and not using much water themselves. It is OK to let the surface dry out for a day or so

between waterings. By the time the cotyledons (seed leaves) open, most of these plants will

already have roots that are an inch or more long. Most of these plants emerge in nature in the

cool temperatures of very early spring. If you keep the flat in a cool place (50-70F), the plants

will be happier, and drying out will be less of a problem. When you do water, it is best to water

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very thoroughly and deeply, until you can see water dripping out of the bottom of the books.

This ensures that the entire soil profile is wetted, not just the top layer.

Appropriate planting depth is determined by seed size--the bigger the seeds, the deeper

they should be planted. For fine seeds, less than an eight of an inch of soil, just barely to

cover, is sufficient. An old rule of thumb that also works well for natives is to plant the seeds at

a depth twice their maximum diameter. For long slender seeds like grass seeds, place the

seeds vertically in the soil nose-down, so that their tops are flush with the surface.

If you are planting germinated seeds, pick the seeds with the shortest radicles, as they

are the easiest to plant without damage. Make a hole first with the tip of a pencil, and lay the

seedling into the soil by placing the seed on the edge of the hole with the radicle hanging

down. Always pick the seedling up by the seed coat to avoid injuring the tender radicle. Once

the seedling is placed, press the soil gently around the radicle from the side.

If you have planted extra seeds in each cell to ensure the presence of a plant, it may be

necessary to thin, once the plants are big enough that their survival is likely. The best way to

thin in these small cells is by cutting the extra plants off at or just below ground level with a pair

of nail scissors. This prevents disturbance of the root system of the remaining plant, which

could weaken it and make it less likely to survive after transplanting.

If you are planting several different species in the same box, group them according to

their growth rates. Put the fast growing grasses and shrub at one end of the box, and slow

growing plants like succulents at the other. It is OK to clip the grasses if they get so tall that is

difficult to get the other plants in the box close to the lights.

Once the plants have grown for a few weeks and you think they might be outgrowing

their containers, check their roots by opening the books. If the plants are well-rooted and the

root ball holds together when lifted, it is OK to transplant, either to larger containers or to their

place in the garden. Native seedlings require hardening before planting out just as vegetable

seedlings do, though they are usually not as delicate. The plants may be held in the books for

several additional weeks after they are well-rooted, but the watering must be watched very

carefully, as larger plants in books tend to dry quickly.

Native Plants from Cuttings

Plant grown from cuttings have an advantage in that they are a genetic equivalent from

the parent plant, displacing any variations from plants. Certain species of plants are easily

grown from cuttings with little treatment. Other species can be propagated by cuttings using

several methods that increase the success of rooting.

Cuttings can be taken throughout the year. Cuttings of woody plants taken when the

plant is dormant are called hardwood cuttings. These generally have no leaves, and are less

susceptible to drying out. Not mist bench is needed. Cuttings can either be directly stuck in the

ground during the dormant season, where they will root out in the spring, or forced to root in a

greenhouse with added heat.

Cuttings of woody plants taken when the plant is actively growing or non-dormant are

softwood cuttings. These cuttings have leaves that actively photosynthesizing, and transpiring,

and henceforth are very prone to water loss. These cuttings are generally rooted on a mist

bench, or other controlled environment.

Cuttings are generally stuck in a tray with porous material like vermiculite or a

peat/perlite mix. When they root, they are then transplanted to a container. In order to get

cuttings to root, several treatments are used. Different species are often more likely to root

when taken at specific times of the year, or from specific places on the plant. The end of the

cutting is often treated with a rooting hormone compound including IBA, gibberellic acid, and

NAA (Dip N‟ Grow, Roottone, Hormex etc.)

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HO-37 New Plants from Cuttings Mary Welch-Keesey and B. Rosie Lerner*

Plants can be propagated, or multiplied, in several different ways. Most people are familiar with growing new plants from seeds, but

new plants can also be created by cutting off a portion of an established plant. This "cutting" is placed in an environment that encour-

ages it to produce new roots and/or stems, thus forming a new, independent plant.

There are several advantages to propagating plants using cuttings:

1. The new plant will be identical to the parent plant. For example, if the parent plant has variegated (multi-colored) foliage, the new

plant grown from the cutting will have the same foliage. If the parent plant is female (as a holly or ginkgo might be), the new plant

will also be female. Propagating a plant by cuttings will allow you to keep the special characteristics of that plant. Plants grown from

seed will often be different from the parent plant and from each other.

2. Propagating a new plant via cuttings avoids the difficulties of propagating by seed. For example, by using cuttings you could

propagate a young tree that has not yet flowered (and thus has not yet produced seed), a male tree, or a sterile plant such as a navel

orange. Additionally, some seeds are difficult to germinate, taking two to three years for the seedling to appear.

3. A new plant grown from a cutting will frequently mature faster and flower sooner than a plant grown from a seed.

Types of Cuttings Cuttings can be made from any part of the plant. Most frequently, however, either a stem or leaf is used. A stem cutting includes a

piece of stem plus any attached leaves or buds. Thus, the stem cutting only needs to form new roots to be a complete, independent

plant. A leaf cutting uses just the leaf, so both new roots and new stems must be formed to create a new plant.

Stem Cuttings Stem cuttings can be taken from both herbaceous plants (e.g., garden flowers and houseplants) and woody trees and shrubs. Because

the new growth of trees and shrubs hardens as the summer progresses, cuttings taken at different times of the year vary in their abil-

ity to form roots. Softwood and herbaceous cuttings are the most likely to develop roots and become independent plants, hardwood

cuttings the least likely.

1. Herbaceous

Stem cuttings from herbaceous plants can be taken any time the plant is actively growing.

2. Softwood

Softwood cuttings are prepared from soft, succulent new growth of woody plants just as it begins to harden (typically May through

July). Shoots at the softwood stage will snap easily when bent. The youngest leaves have not yet reached their mature size.

3. Semi-hardwood

Purdue University Consumer Horticulture Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture

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Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from the current season's growth after the wood has matured. The wood is firm and all leaves are

full size. This occurs in mid-July to early fall for most plants. Many broadleaf evergreens (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron) can

be propagated by semi-hardwood cuttings.

4. Hardwood

Hardwood cuttings are prepared from shoots that grew the previous summer. They are cut in winter or early spring while the plant is

still dormant. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Some deciduous shrubs and needled evergreens will root from hardwood

cuttings.

Leaf Cuttings Leaf cuttings are prepared by taking a single leaf from the plant. This leaf must generate not only new roots, but new shoots as well.

The leaf used for propagation usually does not become part of the new plant, but disintegrates after the new plant is formed. Only a

limited number of plants have the ability to produce new roots and shoots from just a leaf.

Root Cuttings Cuttings taken from roots may also be used but only a few species can be propagated this way. Cuttings are taken when the plant is

dormant and the roots contain the most stored energy. Each root produces two to three new stems and each stem then produces its

own roots. The original root cutting disintegrates.

Propagation Basics To successfully propagate plants from cuttings, a number of challenges must be overcome. Once a cutting is severed from the parent

plant, it can no longer take up water, and excessive water loss will result in death. The wound from the cut makes it susceptible to

diseases. New roots must be formed as rapidly as possible if the new plant is to survive.

Decreasing Water Loss Start with cuttings that contain as much water as possible. Water the plant well the day before and take the cutting before the heat of

the day reduces water content.

Once the cutting is harvested, excessive water loss must be prevented. To minimize water loss:

1. Process the cutting immediately. If this is not possible, stand the cut end in water or place the cutting in a plastic bag with a damp

paper towel and store out of direct sun. If the plant is frost-tolerant, store the bagged cutting in the refrigerator.

2. For a stem cutting, remove some of the leaves. Most of the water will be lost through the leaves, so by decreasing the leaf surface

you also decrease the amount of water loss. A general rule of thumb is to remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the leaves. Cut remaining leaves in

half if they are large.

3. Once the cutting has been prepared and placed in the rooting mix, enclose the pot in a plastic bag. Insert straws or wooden sticks

around the edge of the pot to hold the bag away from the cutting. Place the pot in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight, so the

leaves will receive the light they need but the plant will not get overly hot. The plastic bag insures that humidity around the leaves

remains high, which slows the rate of water loss.

Preventing Disease Take cuttings only from healthy plants. To prevent the spread of disease, use clean tools and pots (clean with 10% bleach, rinse, and

let dry thoroughly). Use fresh soilless potting mix since garden soil can harbor plant diseases.

Encouraging Root Formation Just like leaves, the roots of plants need air to live. Rooting mix that is continuously waterlogged is devoid of air and cuttings will rot

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rather than form roots. A mixture of 50% vermiculite/50% perlite holds sufficient air and water to support good root growth, but any

well-drained soilless potting mix is acceptable. If your cuttings frequently rot before they root, you know the mix is staying too wet.

Add vermiculite or perlite to increase its air- holding capacity.

Cuttings use energy to form new roots. If the cutting has leaves, most of the energy comes from photosynthesis. Expose these cut-

tings to bright light, but not direct sunlight, during the rooting period. If you use hardwood cuttings that have no leaves, the energy

will come from reserves stored in the woody stem. For best results, select shoots that are robust for the species. Since you want all

the energy to go into the new roots, make sure you cut off any flowers or fruits that would compete for energy.

Auxin, a naturally occurring plant hormone, stimulates root formation. Several synthetic forms of auxin are sold as "rooting hor-

mone." Though some plants will root readily without treatment, application of rooting hormone to the base of the cutting will often

improve your chance for success. Two synthetic auxins, IBA (indolebutyric acid) and NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid) are most fre-

quently used. They are available in several concentrations and in both liquid and powder form. 1,000 ppm (0.1%) is used most often

for herbaceous and softwood cuttings; 3,000 ppm (0.3%) and 8,000 ppm (0.8%) are used for semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings.

Liquid formulations can be used at low or high concentration for softwood or hardwood cuttings, respectively. To determine the ap-

propriate concentration for your cutting, follow the instructions on the product label and the general guidelines just given, or consult

the references listed at the end of this publication.

To use rooting hormone, place the amount needed in a separate container. Any material that remains after treating the cuttings should

be discarded, not returned to the original container. These precautions will prevent contamination of the entire bottle of rooting hor-

mone.

Cuttings will root more quickly and reliably in warm rooting mix. Keep your cuttings between 65°F and 75°F, avoiding excessive

heat. If your area is too cold, consider a heating mat or cable especially designed for this purpose.

How to Make Herbaceous and Softwood Stem Cuttings

Many houseplants, annuals, perennials, and woody plants can be propagated by stem cuttings when they are in active growth and the

stems are soft.

1. Cut off a piece of stem, 2-6 inches long. There should be at least three sets of leaves on the cutting.

2. Trim the cutting in the following way:

a. Make the bottom cut just below a node (a node is where the leaf and/or the bud joins the stem) (Figure 1).

Figure 1: Herbaceous and softwood: cutting below a node

b. Remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the leaves, starting from the bottom of the cutting. Cut large leaves in half (Figure 2).

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Figure 2: Herbaceous and softwood: trimmed shoot tip

c. Remove all flowers, flower buds, and fruit.

3. (optional) Dip the lower inch of the cutting in rooting hormone.

4. In a pot of damp, but drained, rooting mix, make a hole for the cutting using a pencil. Put the cutting in the hole and firm the root-

ing mix around it. If any leaves are touching the surface of the mix, trim them back. Several cuttings can be placed in the same pot as

long as their leaves do not touch.

5. Enclose the pot in a plastic bag, making sure the bag does not touch the leaves.

6. Place the pot in a warm, bright spot but out of direct sunlight. Every few days, check the rooting mix to make sure it is damp, and

water as necessary. Discard any water that collects in the bottom of the bag.

7. After two or three weeks, check to see if roots have formed by working your hand under the cutting and gently lifting (Figure 3).

If no roots have formed, or if they are very small, firm the cutting back into the mix, rebag, and check for roots again in one to two

weeks.

Figure 3: Herbaceous and softwood: checking for roots

8. Once roots have formed, slowly decrease the humidity around the plant by untying the plastic bag and then opening it a little more

each day. When it is growing well without a plastic bag, pot in a good quality potting mix and move to its permanent location.

How to Make Semi-hardwood Cuttings

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Follow the same steps as described for herbaceous cuttings. Semi-hardwood cuttings may need a higher level of rooting hormone

and may take longer to form roots. Wounding the base of the cutting sometimes stimulates root initiation (see Step 5 in "How to

Make a Hardwood Cutting" below).

How to Make Hardwood Cuttings Take hardwood cuttings in winter or early spring. Deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves every winter) have no leaves at this

time. Thus, water loss is not a serious problems with these cuttings, unless the buds open. Hardwood cuttings are more difficult to

root than softwood cuttings, and it may take two to four months for roots to form. The technique does work well with some shrubs

such as forsythia, privet, and willow. Needled evergreens can also be propagated using hardwood cuttings, but care must be taken to

reduce water loss.

Preparing Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

1. Select a robust stem.

2. Cut off a length of stem that was formed over the past summer (depending on species, it may be 1-2 feet long).

3. Trim the cutting in the following way:

a. Working from the base of the stem, cut just below a node (Figure 4).

Figure 4: Hardwood: cutting below a node

b. With a pencil, gently make a line 2 inches above this cut. The portion of the stem between the cut and the line will be in the root-

ing mix (Figure 5).

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Figure 5: Hardwood: 2-inch mark

c. Make a second cut 2-6 inches above the line, making sure that this segment contains at least two buds.

4. Remove buds from the bottom 2 inches of the stem so they will not grow during the rooting period.

5. Wound the cutting by removing two 1-inch slices of bark from opposite sides of the base of the stem. Cut deeply enough to expose

the green layer under the bark, but not so deeply that the stem is cut in half (Figure 6).

Figure 6: Hardwood: wounding

6. Apply rooting hormone to the lowest 1 inch of stem and place it into damp rooting mix up to the pencil line. Firm the rooting mix

around it.

7. It may be possible to get two to five cuttings from each stem. Repeat steps three through six if the remaining stem is long enough.

Make sure you keep track of which end of the cutting is the base and which is the top. The base of the cutting, not the top, should

always be the end placed in the rooting mix.

8. There are now two options, depending on the facilities and equipment available.

a. If you have a cold garage and a heating system to warm the rooting mix, place the pot on the heating system in the cold garage.

The cold air will keep the buds from opening and forming leaves, and the heater will keep the mix warm enough for roots to form

(65 to 75°F). It is acceptable for the air temperature to go below freezing as long as the heater can keep the rooting mix between 65°

F and 75°F. For information on constructing heated beds, refer to HO-53: Hot Beds and Cold Frames (http://www.hort.purdue.edu/

hort/ext/Pubs/HO/HO_053.pdf).

b. If you do not have a cold garage with a heating system, place the pot in a plastic bag as you would for herbaceous cuttings, and

place in a warm room. In two or three weeks the buds will open, but the plastic bag should keep humidity around the leaves high and

prevent excess water loss. Make sure the pot is in a bright spot, that it does not overheat, and that the rooting mix is moist but not

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waterlogged.

9. Check for roots every two to three weeks.

10. Acclimate rooted cuttings to warmer, less humid conditions as described for softwood cuttings (Step #8).

Preparing Needled Evergreen Cuttings Needled evergreens are often propagated as hardwood cuttings. Because they still have leaves (needles), these cuttings are handled in

a different manner than hardwood cuttings of deciduous plants.

1. Use shoot tips only, making the cutting 6-8 inches long.

2. Remove the needles from the bottom 3-4 inches of the cutting. To reduce water loss, trim the remaining needles so that they just

cover the palm of your hand (Figure 7).

Figure 7: Needled evergreen: trimmed needles

3. Wound the base of the cutting by drawing a knife point down the lower inch of stem on two sides (Figure 8). Cut into the stem but

do not split it. Apply rooting hormone to the lower inch of the stem and place about 2 inches of the stem into the rooting mix, mak-

ing sure that no needles touch the surface of the mix. Firm the mix around it.

Figure 8: Needled evergreen: wounding

The potted cuttings may be placed in an unheated area with a heating element to warm the rooting mix if the area is well lit. If not,

cover the pot and cuttings with a plastic bag and place in a warm, brightly lit room, as with deciduous hardwood cuttings. Providing

light is essential for successful rooting of these cuttings. Check for roots once a month. It may take three or four months for roots to

develop. Acclimate rooted cuttings as described above.

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How to Make Specialized Stem Cuttings Some houseplants can be propagated most easily using these variations of stem cuttings.

Cane Cane cuttings are used for Dieffenbachia, Dracaena (including corn plant), and other plants with thick stems. The stem, or cane, is

cut into segments and placed into rooting mix. New shoots emerge from the buds that are on the cane; roots grow from the portion of

the cane in the rooting mix (Figure 9). The initial absence of leaves reduces water loss.

Figure 9: Cane: Dieffenbachia bud and roots

1. Cut the cane into segments that contain several buds (usually 2-3 inches in length).

2. Select a healthy bud and place the cane horizontally into the rooting mix so that this bud points up and only the bottom half of the

cane is in the rooting mix. The portion of the cane placed in the rooting mix may be treated with rooting hormone.

3. Alternately, the end of the cane closest to the base of the plant can be treated with rooting hormone. The cutting is then placed into

the rooting mix vertically, about 1/2-inch deep (Figure 10).

Figure 10: Cane: Dieffenbachia segments placed vertically

Leaf-bud

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Leaf-bud cuttings use just a small portion of the stem (up to 1 1/2 inches) that contains a single bud and single leaf. The stem portion

produces roots, and a new shoot develops from the bud (Figure 11). Treat the stem with rooting hormone, then place in rooting mix

so that the bud is below the surface and the leaf is exposed to light. This method is used with grape ivy, geranium, philodendron,

English ivy, and the fleshy-leaved peperomias.

Figure 11: Leaf-bud: rooted cutting

Since both types of specialized stem cuttings will lose water easily, place the pot in a plastic bag until roots form.

How to Make Leaf Cuttings Some plants can be propagated from just a single leaf. Many of these plants have compressed stems, making it impossible to take

stem cuttings. These include African violets, bush-type peperomias, and Sansevieria. Some succulents, such as jade plant and jelly

bean plant, can also be propagated from a single leaf.

Leaf Petiole African violets and bush-type peperomias are propagated from the whole leaf, that is, the blade (the flat part of the leaf) plus the peti-

ole (the leaf stalk). Break off a robust leaf, trim the petiole so it is no more than an inch long, apply rooting hormone, and sink the

petiole into the rooting mix. The base of the leaf blade should just touch the mix (Figure 12). Place the pot in a plastic bag in a bright

spot. In a few weeks roots will form and new plantlets will develop from these roots. When they are large enough to handle, gently

divide them, making sure each plantlet has roots, and plant in individual containers. A single leaf will give rise to several small plant-

lets (Figure 13).

Figure 12: Leaf petiole: leaf blades stuck in medium

Figure 13: Leaf petiole: rooted cutting with plantlets

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Leaf Blade Some succulent plants (for example, jade plant and jelly bean plant) have leaves that lack petioles (Figure 14). These leaves can sim-

ply be broken off the stem, the broken end dipped in rooting hormone, and the leaf inserted about 1/3 of its length into rooting mix.

Since these plants are very sensitive to excess water, make sure the rooting mix stays damp but DO NOT enclose the pot in a plastic

bag. Roots and then new shoots will develop at the base of the leaf and can be separated into individual plantlets (Figure 15). If the

leaves rot instead of root, start over with fresh cuttings and media, add vermiculite or perlite to your rooting mix, and water only

when the upper 1/4 inch of mix has dried.

Although not a succulent, Rex begonias can also be propagated from just the leaf blade. Two techniques can be used.

Method 1: With a knife cut the major veins on the underside of the leaf (Figure 16). Dust with rooting hormone. Place the leaf flat

onto a bed of rooting mix, underside down. Use small wire hairpins or bent paperclips to hold the leaf firmly against the rooting mix

(Figure 17).

Method 2: Roll up the leaf blade, dip the base in rooting hormone, and insert about 1/3 of the roll into the rooting mix. Place extra

mix into the center of the leaf roll to hold it in place (Figure 18). Rolling should break some of the veins, so cutting is not required.

Figure 14: Leaf blade: succulent leaves with no petioles

Figure 15: Leaf blade: succulent leaf with plantlets

Figure 16: Leaf blade: major veins cut on Rex begonia

Figure 17: Leaf blade: Rex begonia leaf pinned flat

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Figure 18: Leaf blade: Rex begonia leaf rolled and stuck in medium

For both methods, enclose the pot in a plastic bag as with softwood cuttings. Check the pot frequently to make sure the veins are in

contact with the rooting mix. If the leaf pulls away from the mix, no roots or plantlets will form. Each wound in a major vein will

give rise to roots and small plantlets (Figure 19). Transplant each plantlet into a separate pot when large enough to handle (Figure

20).

Leaf Section Sansevieria, or mother-in-law's tongue, has long, sword-like leaves attached to a compressed stem. Cut off one of the leaves at its

base, then cut it into 2-4 inch segments. Dip the basal end (the end of the segment that was closest to the base of the plant) of each

segment in rooting hormone and then insert 1-2 inches into the rooting mix. If the segments are put into the mix upside down, no

roots will form. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place in a bright spot. After several weeks, first roots, then shoots, will develop at the

base of the cutting (Figure 21). Each new shoot with roots can become a separate plant.

Figure 19: Leaf blade: Rex begonia leaf with plantlets

Figure 20: Leaf blade: separating Rex be-gonia plantlets

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Figure 21: Leaf section: rooted and growing Sansevieria section

How to Make Root Cuttings Though very few plants can be propagated from root cuttings (for example, oriental poppy, phlox, and horseradish), the technique is

simple and should be tried if you wish to propagate these species. When the plant is dormant, dig it up and cut off robust segments of

the root, 2-3 inches long (replant the parent plant). If the roots are thin, lay them horizontally on the rooting mix and cover with 1/2

inch of the damp mix. If the roots are thick, lay them horizontally or place them vertically into the rooting mix, covering them com-

pletely. If placing the root vertically, make sure the end of the cutting that was nearest the crown of the plant points up. Put the pot in

a plastic bag and place in a bright spot. In several weeks, shoots should emerge from the rooting mix. Keep the pot in the plastic bag

until new roots have formed on the shoots.

References:

General:

Hartman, H.T. et al (1997) Plant Propagation: Principles and Practices, Sixth Edition, Prentice Hall, New Jersey.

Toogood, Alan, (1999), American Horticulture Society Plant Propagation: The Fully Illustrated Plant-by-Plant Manual of Practical

Techniques, AHS.

Heuser, Charles W. (Editor), Richard Bird, Mike Honour, Clive Innes, Jim Arbury (Contributing Authors), (1997) The Complete

Book of Plant Propagation, Taunton Press.

Woody plants:

Dirr, M.A. and C.W. Heuser (1987) The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation, Varsity Press, Inc. Athens GA.

Perennials:

Jim Nau, (1996), Ball Perennial Manual; Propagation and Production, Ball Publishing.

Houseplants:

Heuser, Charles W. (Editor), Richard Bird, Mike Honour, Clive Innes, Jim Arbury (Contributing Authors), (1997) The Complete

Book of Plant Propagation, Taunton Press.

Jantra, I. and Kruger, U. (1997), The Houseplant Encyclopedia, Firefly Books, Inc. Buffalo, New York.

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‘Water’ You Doing with Your Water? - Loralie Cox

Cache County Water

>Utah – second driest state in the nation with 13” annual precipitation

(Cache Valley – 16” annually).

>Kentucky bluegrass lawn requires about 24 inches of water annually to maintain. Generally,

land owners apply over twice that amount.

>Snow and rainfall come during January through May, highest demand occurs in July and

August.

>Over 65% of Utah‟s municipal water is used for outdoor landscapes.

>Cost of culinary water for landscape use (based on two 5/8” hoses at 60 psi):

Denver, CO .80/hour

Boulder, CO 2.15/hour

Pine Brook Hills, CO $18.50/hour

Santa Fe, NM $42.00/hour („96 emergency rate)

Five percent of the population used 25-40% of water

>Multiple years of low water reserves have increased need to conserve available sources.

>Continuing growth and development have placed increasing demands on current supplies.

>Conservation is the least-cost alternative to new water supplies.

Effects of poor landscape watering practices:

-Concrete losses strength and cracks, weeds grow in sidewalk cracks, and excessive runoff

-Carries nutrients away from the landscape

-Too much water applied too quickly causes runoff and shallow-rooted turf

-A properly irrigated and fertilized lawn will out-compete weeds

-Trees and shrubs have different water requirements than turf – water deeper and less

frequently

Strategies to conserve water in the landscape:

-Planning and design

-Reduce turf areas

-Appropriate plant selection

-Soil amendments

-Efficient irrigation systems

-Mulch to conserve soil moisture

-Proper maintenance

18

19

Native Bees

Utah is home to some 800 species of wild bee. (There are over 4000 named species worldwide.) They

are mostly solitary bees, do not produce honey, usually produce only one or two generations per

year, and generally go about their business with little interference with people. They are very impor-

tant, though, in the pollination of many plants. They use pollen and nectar from plants to provide

food for the next generation of bees and by doing so, they pollinate plants.

We can help bees and other pollinators by increasing the diversity of plants in our yard, making sure

that there are plants blooming from early spring until fall to provide season long pollen and nectar,

leaving areas “wild” for ground nesting bees, cutting down on our use of broad spectrum pesticides

and even putting up nest boxes for bees that nest in holes in trees.

There are several websites to check out that have a great deal of good information on native bees.

The extension website has a fact sheet that lists nearly 200 species of flowering plant that grow well

in Utah and are good for bees. Go to extension.usu.edu, click the tab “gardening,” then “Utah pests,”

then “fact sheets.” Search “native bees.” The USDA Bee Lab in Logan also has a website

(ars.usda.gov) with many articles about growing plants for bees and the Xerces Society (xerces.org) is

an organization devoted to invertebrate conservation, including pollinators such as bees.

20

Waterwise Landscapes and Native Plant Resources

Extension publications on landscape water use:

• Designing a low water use landscape: http://extension.usu.edu/files/gardpubs/hg525.pdf

• Water-wise landscaping: http://extension.usu.edu/files/gardpubs/hg518.pdf

•Water-wise landscaping: Soil preparation and management:

http://extension.usu.edu/files/gardpubs/hg522.pdf

• Basic turfgrass care: http://extension.usu.edu/files/gardpubs/hg517.pdf

• Turfgrass water use in Utah: http://extension.usu.edu/files/engrpubs/biewm36.pdf

• Garden water use in Utah: http://extension.usu.edu/files/engrpubs/biewm37.pdf

• Selecting and planting landscape trees: http://extension.usu.edu/files/natrpubs/nr460.pdf

• Efficient irrigation of trees and shrubs: http://extension.usu.edu/files/gardpubs/hg523.pdf

• Specific irrigation scheduling information: www.conservewater.utah.gov

• Plant Maintenance:

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_Landscaping_2008-01pr.pdf

• Water-wise landscaping/Practical turf areas

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_Turf_2006-01.pdf

• Water-wise landscaping/Mulch

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_Landscaping_2007-01pr.pdf

• Water wise plants for Utah landscapes:

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-2003-01.pdf

Other related web sites:

• Central Utah Water Conservancy District: http://cuwcd.com

• Water Wise Landscaping, Utah Botanical Center: http://www.usu.edu/ubc/waterpage.html

• WaterWiser: www.waterwiser.org

• http://www.wildflower.utexas.edu

• http://www.unps.org

• http://www.utahschoice.org

• http://www.NativePlantNetwork.org

•http://www.nativeplantnetwork.org/network/

Books:

How to grow the Wildflowers, E. Johnson and S. Millard

Native Plants for High Elevation Western Gardens, J. Busco and N. Morin

Water-Wise and Native Plants:

Utah Water-Wise Plants list: www.waterwiseplants.utah.gov

Plant Select: www.ext.colostate.edu/psel/index.html

Wildland Nursery: http://www.wildlandnursery.com

Great Basin Natives: www.grownative.com

Willard Bay Gardens: www.willardbaygardens.com

A High Country Garden: www.highcountrygardens.com

USDA Plant Database: www.pants.usda.gov

21

Demonstration Gardens:

Jordan Valley Water Conservancy District

8215 South 1300 West

West Jordan, UT 84088

www.slowtheflow.org

Red Butte Garden & Arboretum

300 Wakara Way

Salt Lake City, UT 84108

http://www.redbuttegarden.org

Utah Botanical Center

725 South Sego Lily Drive

Kaysville, UT 84037

http://utahbotanicalcenter.org

Greenville Farm

1850 North 800 East

North Logan, UT

22

INDOOR LIGHT GARDEN CONSTRUCTION Maggie Wolf, USU Extension Agent

Salt Lake County FRAME

PVC FRAME MATERIALS ¾ “ schedule 40 PVC pipe: 4 ea 4 ft lengths 4 ea 20 in lengths 8 ea 4 in lengths 4 ea 10 in lengths (total of about 29 feet pipe) Connectors: 12 T‟s 4 L‟s 4 hooks or screw eyes

OTHER MATERIALS: 2 each 4 ft long shop light fixtures 4 each shop light fluorescent bulbs (cool white, warm, or full-spectrum TOOLS for assembly: Surge-protector power strip OR GFI-protected electrical outlet: PVC cutters or hacksaw Outlet box Electric drill and drill bits GFI-protected outlet Wire cutters/strippers Outlet box cover, with gasket Needle-nose pliers 2 each machine screws, 1 ½” to 2” long Screwdriver 2 each, locking nuts to match screw diameter Adjustable wrench 3-prong extension cord Heavy duty electrical timer (3-prong) Fabricated sheet metal pan, or plywood ‘pan’ with thick plastic liner. Directions for assembly of PVC frame: 1. Cut PVC segments to correct lengths. 2. Drill pilot holes for hooks at the ends of the 4 ft segments 1” in from the edges. Be sure that the holes line up so both will be at the bottom of the pipe. Insert the screw eyes or hooks into the pilot holes. 3. Taking care not to jam the pieces too tightly together, attach connectors to PVC segments. 4. Assemble the structure as illustrated on front page, but leave out one of the 4” segments (to be used in the electrical outlet assembly). Again, do not jam the pieces too tightly together. If a power strip is being used rather than the GFI outlet, go ahead and assemble the entire frame.

23

Directions for wiring the GFI-protected outlet:

1. Gather the outlet, outlet box, outlet face plate, extension cord, the 4” PVC segment,

machine screws and nuts.

2. Drill holes through the back of the outlet box and 4” PVC pipe to attach the box to the

pipe. Fit machine screws through the holes and attach nuts.

3. Cut the female end off the extension cord and strip outer wire cover a bout 2 inches.

Strip inner wire covers to about ½“.

4. Feed the stripped extension cord end up through the bottom hole of the outlet box.

Attach the stripped wires to the outlet wire connections, matching wire cover color to the

matching color terminals.

5. Attach the wired outlet into the outlet box.

6. Attach the outlet face plate to the outlet and outlet box.

7. Insert the 4” PVC segment (with electrical outlet now attached) into he Indoor Light

Garden frame structure.

Completing the Indoor Light Garden Assembly:

1. Install fluorescent tubes into shop light fixtures.

2. Attach chains to the light fixtures and hang from the screw eyes or hooks.

3. Plug the light fixture electrical cords in the GFI-protected outlet or power strip. Plug the

outlet cord into heavy-duty timer. Plug the timer into the nearest electrical outlet then

turn the timer „ON‟. If your lights do not light up, unplug the main cord and push the GFI

„reset‟ button or switch on the power cord. Try plugging the main cord in again. If the

lights still won't light, you will need to recheck your wiring. Set the timer to light 14 to 16

hours per day when seeds are sprouting.

4. Place the sheet metal pan at the base of the frame.

Other options:

-Use three shop light fixtures instead of two for more uniform light coverage.

-Make a wood tray to fit on the bottom of the Indoor Light Garden rather than a

fabricated metal tray. Use ¼” plywood with a fir strip or molding tacked on the outer

edge as a lip. Line the wood tray with plastic.

-Grow twice as many plants in a double-decker Indoor Light Garden! Use 1” diameter

PVC instead of ¾” for extra sturdiness.

24

Building a Modified Mist Bench for a Hobby Greenhouse

Almost all commercial growers utilize what is known as a mist bench. Mist benches can speed

seed germination and growth for vegetative propagation. Commercial systems are composed of

irrigation nozzles that emit a fine mist, a bottom heating system that warms the soil to an optimal

temperature for germination and rooting, a covering that maintains high humidity and a specialized

clock capable of activating the system for seconds at a time several times an hour. These systems can

cost from hundreds to thousands of dollars.

Many hobbyists desire to have a similar system, and they can be ordered from multiple

companies starting at a few hundred dollars. However, a modified system can also be constructed of

parts available from local hardware and irrigation stores at a reduced cost. To lower the cost of the

modified system, one item that may be dispensed with is the bottom heat system. A less expensive lawn

sprinkler clock can also help reduce costs. Eliminating bottom heat and replacing the clock may limit

the times of year when using the system is practical. Additionally, propagation of some species may

become more difficult. However, the modified system is generally sufficient to germinate most seeds

efficiently and successfully propagate many plants asexually, especially when used in the spring and

summer.

The following mist irrigation system can be constructed of either ½-inch or

¾-inch PVC, schedule 40, irrigation pipe. It is intended to be connected to culinary water. If secondary

water is used, filtration will be necessary. The parts list provides enough material to create a mist bench

approximately 7 feet long. However, especially as the system is modified, required parts will differ. It

can be connected directly to a pressurized system or connected to a hose. Appropriate fittings to con-

nect it to a hose can be purchased from many garden centers, irrigation supply stores or hardware

stores.

Parts list for mist bench irrigation system:

Nine (9) feet of PVC pipe.

6 each- slip x ½-inch threaded x slip tees (threaded to accept a ½-inch riser)

6 each- 3 to 6-inch long ½-inch risers

1 each- slip x slip x slip tee

2 each- slip caps

PVC glue and primer

1 each- role of Teflon tape

1 each- role of electrical tape

2 each- wire nuts

1 each- electric sprinkler valve

1 each- outdoor 4-8 station sprinkler clock. A 4 station clock is suitable, but the more times per

day the sprinklers are activated increases success slightly.

Enough sprinkler wire to run from the valve to the sprinkler clock.

6 each- mist nozzles that spray 3 feet wide threaded to fit on the ½-inch risers. You may need to

purchase additional adapters for the mist nozzles to fit on the risers or to tap a threaded ½-inch

cap for the nozzle to fit, depending on the mist nozzles you purchase. The company where

nozzles are purchased will provide specific information.

You may also need the following:

-An appropriate filtration system for use with a secondary water

-An PVC pipe to hose end adapter

-Additional PVC pipe and fittings to plumb into a pressurized system

25

Illustration 1. Assembling your mist system

Step 1. Cut 2 pieces of PVC pipe six inches long and one (1) piece to two (2) feet long. Set these aside.

Step 2. Obtain the 6-foot long piece of PVC pipe. Cut 6 inches off either end of the pipe. Then cut the

remaining pipe into 5 pieces, 12 inches each.

Step 3. Reassemble and glue all the pieces from step 2 back together using the slip x threaded x slip

tees, making sure that the pieces cut to six inches are at either end. Be sure that the tees are glued so

that the risers will rise straight into the air when they are screwed in.

Step 4. Wrap Teflon tape around both threaded ends of each riser. Insert and

hand tighten the risers into the threaded part of the tees.

Step 5. Attach the mist nozzles to the other end of the tees.

Step 6. Glue the 2-foot section of pipe from step one (1), using a coupler, to the

end of the system where the electric valve will be eventually be attached. Keep

in mind that the valve placement should be customized to fit your situation. It

especially should be placed so that the electric wires are not

regularly exposed to water.

Step 7. Attach the slip x slip x slip tee to the other end of the line, gluing the two

six-inch pieces from step one into either side of the tee. Glue the two slip caps

onto the other ends of the six-inch pieces.

Step 8. When the valve is glued in, attach a hose end adapter to the PVC pipe to or plumb the system

into your pressurized irrigation.

Illustration 2. Reference this illustration when connecting the electric valve

26

Step 9. Wire the valve to the sprinkler clock.

Step 10. Set the clock to water in the early morning, late morning,

mid afternoon and in the evening.

How many minutes to run the clock is variable and is best deter-

mined by careful observation. If an 8 station clock is used, stagger

the time appropriately throughout the day. If electricity is not readily

available, battery operated clocks are available.

A complete mist system and cover with

the plastic sheeting removed. This

bench is also a prototype and the fit-

tings used in this unit varies slightly

from instructions given.

Parts List for mist bench cover:

60-80 ft of schedule 40 pipe

8 each 90º elbows

8 each slip x slip x slip tees

5 each slip x slip couplers (These are useful for connecting smaller pieces of pipe to make longer

lengths)

Clear, construction plastic sheeting to fit (This can be purchased at most hardware stores.)

Step 1. Cut to length the following pieces of PVC pipe:

27

Step 2. Using both pieces cut to 7 feet 6 inches and both pieces cut to 3 feet 2 inches, form a rectangular

shape using four (4) elbows (See illustration 3).

Illustration 3. Overhead view of the base of the mist bench cover.

Step 3. Once the pieces are connected, cut the 7 foot 6 inch pipes six inches from the edge on all four

corners. Where the pipes were cut, insert slip x slip x slip tees (see illustration 3).

Step 4. Insert the four (4) pipes cut to 2 feet in length into the four (4) slip tees (See illustration 4).

Illustration 4. Side view of bench cover with 2 ft pipes inserted into slip x slip x slip tees.

Step 5. Next find both pieces cut to three (3) feet in length. Measure 6 inches from each edge and cut

the pipe. You will make four cuts. Obtain the remaining four (4) slip x slip x slip tees and reassemble

the three (3) foot pipes (See illustration 5).

28

Illustration 4. Overhead view of the top of the bench cover.

Step 6. Place the remaining 4 elbows on each edge of the 3-foot pipes and connect these to the upright

2-foot pipes (See illustration 4).

Step 7. Insert the two (2) pipes cut to 6 feet 6 inches into the slip tees from step 5 (See illustration 4).

Step 8. Drape the plastic sheeting over the top of the plastic structure. It may be cut to fit but leave

enough plastic on the bottom edges so that it can be weighted down.

29

FACT SHEET: Alisma sp. Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Mudplantain Other Common Names: Water plantain Scientific Name: Alisma sp. (most likely Alisma subcordatum) Etymology: Alisma is an ancient Greek name Family: Alismataceae Distribution: Genus is distributed nearly worldwide; 3 species occur natively in the U.S. Habitat: wetlands, shallow water Habit: perennial Height: to 3 ft. Spread: to 2 ft. Foliage Color: green

Leaves: oval to elliptic, slender and elongate when underwater Flower Color: white, sometimes blue or pink tinged Flower Form: small, occurring in highly branched, whorls Flowering Season: June - August Fruit: achenes Cultural Requirements: Full sun, shade intolerant. WATER PLANT! Muddy soil to shallow (to 18 in) water. Does not tolerate dry soil.

Propagation: Seeds – cold, moist stratification for 4-6 weeks, keep soil wet (to saturated) once growth states place pot in shallow water (just above soil surface but not submerging young plant). Vegetative – divisions and rhizomes. Uses and Notes of Interest: Plants growing in very shallow water resemble the weedy plantain in lawns. Attractive bog plant, but can become weedy.

Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent. Photos:

30

FACT SHEET: Amelanchier alnifolia Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Serviceberry, Saskatoon serviceberry

Other Common Names: alder-leaf shadbush, dwarf shadbush, western juneberry, pigeonberry Scientific Name: Amelanchier alnifolia

Family: Rosaceae

Distribution: Western & Northern North America, Habitat: Foothills, canyons, woodlands Habit: Shrub, usually multi-trunked, slow growing, deciduous

Height: 3-26 (33) ft. Spread: 3-20 ft. Foliage Color: green to dark green; yellow to reddish-orange in fall Leaves: 2-5 x 1-4.5 cm, toothed mostly above the middle Flower Color: white

Flower Form: 3-20, on short branches (racemes)

Flowering Season: April – May, as new leaves expand Fruit: small purplish pome (apple-like), ripening late summer. Usually has a white bloom when fully ripe.

Cultural Requirements: Mostly to full sun. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils lacking in organic material. Propagation: Seeds – sown immediately when green, or give long cold stratification, ger-mination is slow and can take up to 18 months; plant seedling in permanent place after they reach 20 cm in height; Vegetative – suckers, division of suckers best done in late winter, or layering in spring (up to 18 months for roots to form). Uses and Notes of Interest: Fruit has been long harvested as food – having a sweet nutty taste, and can be used as a blueberry replacement in many recipes. The fruit has a similar antioxidant composition to blueberries. Good plant for hummingbirds. Wood used to make handles. Disease Issues: Susceptible to cedar-apple rust.

31

FACT SHEET: Astragalus utahensis

Common Name: Utah ladyfinger milkvetch Other Common Names: Utah milkvetch Scientific Name: Astragalus utahensis Family: Pea family (Fabaceae) Distribution: Northern Great Basin Habitat: Desert and foothill habitats Habit: Perennial herb Height: 2-4" Spread: 0.5-2' Foliage Color: Gray green Leaves: Pinnately compound, densely hairy, sprawling on the ground Flower Color: Bright magenta pink Flower Form: Large (1" long) pea flowers borne in clusters Flowering Season: early to mid spring Cultural Requirements: Requires full sun and well-drained soils. Fully cold-hardy. Very drought hardy (i.e., needs no supplemental water after establishment on the Wasatch Front), intolerant of overwatering. Culture: Easily obtained from direct late fall seeding. At dispersal, seeds are hard, i.e., they do not take up water, and in nature they can live for many years in the ground. Nicking with a razor blade, rubbing on sand-paper, or soaking in hot water breaks the hardseededness. The seeds germinate readily once water uptake takes place. Plants produced as container stock do not flower until the second year. Uses and Notes of Interest: We have chosen this attractive little plant as our poster child for the Utah Heri-tage Garden Program. It is abundant along the foothills of the Wasatch Front, and is one of the very first plants to flower after the snow melts. Great spreading clumps adorn the most unpromising areas, such as old gravel quarries and highway rights of way. Its sprawling habit makes the plant a natural for rock gardens and also as a ground cover on hot, gravelly hard-to-water areas of the yard. It does not do well in the company of taller plants due to its high light requirement. The pretty magenta flowers are followed by interesting fruits, pods that resemble little woolly chicks. Seeds are readily collected by shaking them out of the gaping "beak" of the pod.

Photos by Susan Meyer

32

FACT SHEET: Atriplex canescens

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Fourwing Saltbush Other Common Names: Chamiso, Chamiza, Hoary Saltbrush Scientific Name: Atriplex canescens Etymology: Family: Chenopodiaceae/ Amaranthaceae Distribution: Western North America, Habitat: Basin and Southwest deserts Habit: evergreen shrub, highly variable in form Height: to 8 ft. Spread: to 6 ft. Foliage Color: gray-green Leaves: linear, 2 in long, often with rolled margins Flower Color: yellowish, insignificant Flower Form: open, disk-like Flowering Season: May to August Fruit: 4 wings 1/4 - 1/5 in long, gold-tan when ripe Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, somewhat shade intolerant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intoler-ant of heavy clay soils. Propagation: Seeds – plant in fall or cold, moist stratification for 4 weeks, nick seed coat, or leach; Vegeta-tive – layering, root cuttings/ rhizomes possible. Uses and Notes of Interest: Edible (entire plant). Ashes of leaves used as baking powder. Plants tend to be male or female, but can change sex. Seeds used for flour. Pollen may cause hayfever. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

Photo: Richard J. Shaw, © Intermountain Herbarium, 2012. Used with permission

33

FACT SHEET: Baptisia australis

Common Name: False indigo Other Common Names: Scientific Name: Baptisia australis. Family: Pea family, Fabaceae Distribution: Hardiness zones 4-8 Habitat: borders of woods, along streams or in open meadows Habit: round form with flowers on taller stalks Height: 24-48”. Spread: 36-48” Foliage Color: green Leaves: 3 lobed Flower Color: bluish purple w/ yellow accents on flower Flower Form: pea-like flowers on upright stalks Flowering Season: June/July Fruit: Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade. Well-drained soils. Low water. Propagation: Seeds, cuttings. Soak seeds for 24-48 hours to im-prove germination. Uses and Notes of Interest: Spring brings asparagus-like new growth. Summer foliage and flowers are beautiful. Fall and winter holds black shiny seedpods- great contrast with ornamental grasses. Deer-resistant, easy to grow. Great for cut flowers. Cut back in early spring for new growth. Drought tolerant.

USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / Britton, N.L., and A. Brown.

1913. An illustrated flora of the northern United States,

Canada and the British Possessions. 3 vols. Charles Scrib-

ner's Sons, New York. Vol. 2: 344

34

FACT SHEET: Caryopteris sp.

Text by: Diane Baum Common Name: Bluebeard Other Common Names: Blue Mist Spirea Scientific Name: Caryopteris sp. Family: Lamiaceae (formerly in the Verbenaceae) Distribution: Asia Habitat: wetlands, shallow water Habit: Herbaceous perennials or small shrubs Height: to 4 ft. Spread: to 5 ft. Foliage Color: green to gray-green, silvery green, bluish Leaves: opposite, ovate to lanceolate Flower Color: white or blue Flower Form: long flower spikes Flowering Season: May/June - Fall Fruit: Capsule with 4 seeds Cultural Requirements: Full sun, shade intolerant. Prefers loamy or sandy, well-drained soils. Propagation: Seeds – cool stratify for 3-10 weeks (depending on species). Vegetative – softwood cuttings, layering. Uses and Notes of Interest: Blooms on new growth. Leaves and herbaceous stems have a terpene aroma (like Eucalyptus) when bruised. Caryopteris x clandonensis, has become more common in xeriscaping in American Gardens since the 1960‟s. Several cultivars are now available. Attractive to bees, butterflies and birds. Heavy clay soils can increase winter mortality. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

http://public.wsu.edu/~lohr/wcl/shrubs/caryclan/CaryopterisForm.jpg

35

FACT SHEET: Cercocarpus montanus

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Alderleaf Mountain Mahogany Other Common Names: True Mountain Mahogany, Birchleaf Moun-tain Mahogany, Tallowbrush, Deerbrush, Lintisco Scientific Name: Cercocarpus montanus Etymology: Cercocarpus means hairy tail, referring to the fruit Family: Rosaceae Distribution: Western North America, Habitat: Semi-desert, foothills, montane. Shrublands, canyons, woodlands. Habit: Shrub or small tree, deciduous, multi-stemmed Height: to 20 ft. Spread: ~15 ft. Foliage Color: dark green (upper surface) fuzzy silver on lower sur-face; yellow in fall Leaves: oval-shaped, rather thick, toothed on margins, 3-10 promi-nent veins Flower Color: yellowish Flower Form: tubular, lacking petals, clustered, not showy individu-ally but sweet smelling Flowering Season: April – June, as leaves emerge Fruit: dry brownish achenes, silvery white with long feathery exten-sion. Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, somewhat shade intolerant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intoler-ant of heavy clay soils. Propagation: Seeds – cold, moist stratification for 2-12 weeks; Vegetative – root sprouts. Slow to establish, and slow growing initially. Uses and Notes of Interest: Reflective nature of hairs on the seeds give the plant a frosted appearance in heavy fruiting years. Wood used as tools and weapons, bark used to make a reddish-brown dye. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

Photos: Richard J. Shaw, © Intermountain Herbarium, 2012. Used with permission

36

FACT SHEET: Clematis hirsutissima Common Name: Hairy Clematis Other Common Names: Sugarbowls, Leatherflower Scientific Name: Clematis hirsutissima Family: Ranunculaceae (Buttercup Family) Distribution: Rocky Mountain states to the Pacific Northwest Habitat: Upper-elevation meadows and open slopes Habit: Bushy perennial Height: 1-2 feet Spread: 1 foot Foliage Color: Bright green Leaves: Deeply dissected leaves Flower Color: Brownish-purple Flower Form: Nodding bell-shape, 1 ½ inches long Flowering Season: Early summer Cultural Requirements: Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Low to moderate water needs. Propagation: Seeds require several months of cold, moist chilling (it‟s probably best to plant them outdoors in the fall). Uses and Notes of Interest: Unlike other Clematis species, this is not a vine. It is an attractive plant that would look good in a rock garden or flower bed. The purplish nodding flowers have thick, hairy petals (the species name, hirsutissima means “very hairy”). Hairy seed heads develop after flowering, giving it a “Dr. Seuss” look. In Northern Utah, you can see this plant growing in meadows along the trail between Tony Grove and White Pine Lake.

Photo: David Wallace, Cherry Peak trail, 19

July 2008

Photo: Susan McDougall @ USDA-NRCS

PLANTS Database

37

FACT SHEET: Cleome serrulata Common Name: Rocky Mountain Beeplant Other Common Names: Spider plant, beeweed, stinkweed Scientific Name: Cleome serrulata Family: Capparaceae Distribution: Washington to Nebraska, south to California and New Mexico Habitat: Mixed desert shrub, pinyon-juniper and ponderosa pine Habit: Upright annual Height: 3-4 feet Spread: 2 foot Foliage Color: Green Leaves: Three leaflets, about ¾ to 2 ½ inches long. Flower Color: Pink-purple Flower Form: Large, fluffy clusters of small flowers with exserted stamens Flowering Season: Summer to fall Cultural Requirements: Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Low to mod-erate water needs. Propagation: Seeds require 6-8 weeks cold, moist chilling, and they will ger-minate in chilling. Uses and Notes of Interest: This is an attractive plant, with lacy purple flowers and long, narrow seed-filled pods. Found in much of the west and throughout much of Utah. Native Americans ate the seeds and greens for food, and prehistoric Indians of the southwest apparently grew it around their pueblos. Lewis and Clark collected Rocky Mountain Beeplant in 1804 in what is now South Dakota, and it may be found in commercial wildflower seed mixes.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/

natrpubs/despub.pdf

38

FACT SHEET: Cornus sericea

Common Name: Redtwig dogwood Other Common Names: Red osier dogwood Scientific Name: Cornus stolonifera Family: Salicaceae Distribution: Western United States Habitat: Riparian areas within the Western U.S. Habit: Perennial shrub/subshrub Height: 6-12 ft. Spread: 6-12 ft. Foliage Color: Green or variegated

Leaves: Flower Color: White Flower Form: Clusters of small flowers Flowering Season: Mid spring to early summer

Cultural Requirements: Native to wet areas; however, once established is relatively drought tolerant. Very adaptable; tolerates occasional heavy pruning.

Propagation: Because this is a succoring, riparian shrub, it is very easy to propagate. Place 6-12” long cuttings into wet potting soil and water for 4-8 weeks or until rooted. Cuttings can be taken at various times of the year. If cuttings are taken during the growing season, strip all but one or two leaves off the branch. Be careful not to tear bark. Have experienced upwards of 80% rooting suc-cess.

Uses and Notes of Interest: Renewal prune by removing ¼ to 1/3 of branches starting with the most mature annually. Do so be-cause the bark on younger branches has more intense color. Branches are sometimes used to make ornamental wreaths. Com-monly used as an informal screening hedge. Needs room to grow. Forms are available with either red or yellow stems, along with variegated leaf varieties. S. alba is very closely related, and additionally commonly available at garden centers. Botanists have much difficulty differentiating the two species. There are also several named cultivars that are usually more dwarf than cuttings taken from wild plants.

39

FACT SHEET: Echinacea sp. Text by: Diane Baum Common Name: Purple Coneflower Other Common Names: Echinacea, snakeroot, Kansas snake-root, broad- leaved purple coneflower, scurvy root, Indian head, comb flower, black susans, and hedge hog Scientific Name: Echinacea sp. Etymology: from the Greek for hedge hog – referring to the spiky appearance of the cone Family: Asteraceae Distribution: Eastern and Central North America Habitat: prairies and open woodlands Habit: Herbaceous perennials, erect Height: to 4 ft. Spread: to 2 ft. Foliage Color: dark green Leaves: lance-shaped, coarsely toothed Flower Color: reddish purple, pink, white Flower Form: sunflower-like Flowering Season: May/June - Fall Fruit: achenes Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade. Prefers loamy or sandy, well-drained soils. Not very drought tolerant. Propagation: Seeds – pretreatment is generally not needed, germination can take up to 30 days; Vegetative – cuttings, divisions. Uses and Notes of Interest: E. purpurea has been shown to have antidepressant properties in white rats and is believed by many people to stimulate the immune system. Chemicals found in this plant can cause ad-verse reactions in people taking some heart medications. Cut flowers typically have a vase life of 5-7 days. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

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FACT SHEET: Erigeron speciosus

Common Name: Showy Daisy Other Common Names: Oregon Daisy, Showy Fleabane, Aspen Fleabane Scientific Name: Erigeron speciosus Etymology: speciousus from the Latin “specios,” meaning “showy” or “beautiful” Family: Asteraceae Distribution: common and widely distributed throughout western North America Habitat: sagebrush-grassland, mountain brush and mountain forest and meadow communities Habit: rhizomatous perennial herb Height: 1-1.5' Spread: 1-several feet, forms patches Foliage Color: bright green Leaves: lance-shaped leaves borne alternately along the stems Flower Color: pink or lavender ray flowers, yellow disk flowers Flower Form: flowers in heads 1-1.5" across, with numerous narrow ray flowers and numerous disk flowers; heads borne at the tips of branches in flat-topped inflorescences Cultural Requirements: Prefers full sun to near-complete shade and relatively rich soils. Fully cold-hardy. Reasonably drought hardy (i.e., needs little supplemental water after establishment on the Wasatch Front), but tolerant of overwatering. Propagation: Seeds are non-dormant and may be direct-seeded in containers. Be sure to thin if you have over-seeded. This species may be successfully field- seeded in late fall. Uses and Notes of Interest: Showy daisy commonly carpets the ground beneath aspens, and is also abun-dant in mountain meadows. It lives up to its name, producing a profusion of blossoms and flowering for a long time. It will flower a second time if spent stalks are clipped in midsummer. Showy daisy is one of the few rhi-zomatous native plants that we would recommend for home gardens. It is slow to spread, and this tendency can be controlled by cutting back on water. It would be a good choice for naturalizing under shade trees where traditional lawn does poorly, and it can thrive on far less water.

Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent

Photo: Richard J. Shaw, Used with Permission -

© Intermountain Herbarium, 2012

Mel Harte/ www.discoverlife.org

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FACT SHEET: Ephedra nevadensis

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Nevada jointfir Other Common Names: Nevada Mormon Tea, Nevada Ephedra, Gray Ephedra Scientific Name: Ephedra nevadensis Etymology: Nevadensis means from Nevada Family: Ephedraceae Distribution: Western North America Habitat: Basin and Southwest deserts Habit: shrub, with leafless, jointed evergreen stems Height: to 4 ft. Spread: to 4 ft. Foliage Color: na Leaves: na Flower Color: na Flower Form: na Coning Season: late winter - midspring Fruit: small cones Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, shade intol-erant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils. Propagation: Seeds –cold, moist stratification for 21 days; Vegetative – cuttings, occasionally from root sprouts. Uses and Notes of Interest: Stems are a diuretic. Seeds are edible and sweet. Plants are either male or female. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

http://web.gccaz.edu/glendalelibrary/images/Ephedra_nevadensis

-4.jpg

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FACT SHEET: Forestiera neomexicana

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: New Mexico Privet Other Common Names: Stretchberry, Wild Olive, Desert Olive Scientific Name: Forestiera neomexicana/ Forestiera pubescens subsp. neomexicana Family: Oleaceae Distribution: Southwestern North America, Habitat: Dry, rocky slopes and canyons in deserts Habit: Shrub or small tree, fast growing, deciduous, multi-stemmed Height: to 18 ft. Spread: ~15 ft. Foliage Color: grayish-green to bright green; yellow in fall Leaves: small, to 1 in., often appearing paired Flower Color: yellow, yellowish Flower Form: small, clustered Flowering Season: April – May, just before leaves emerge Fruit: small blue/black berries in autumn. Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils lack-ing in organic material. Propagation: Seeds – sow directly outdoors, or cold stratify; Vegetative – hardwood cuttings, layering Uses and Notes of Interest: Tolerates harsh winds. Interesting smooth white bark (blackish when young) – a good substitute for aspen. Male & female flowers found on different plants. Tolerant of pruning. Wood very hard – used as tools by Native Americans. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

http://www.delange.org/OliveNewMex/Dsc00152.jpg

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FACT SHEET: Hymenoxys hoopesii Common Name: Orange mountain daisy Other Common Names: Owl‟s claws, Orange sneezeweed Scientific Name: Hymenoxys hoopesii Family: Asteraceae Distribution: Western United States, excluding Washington. Habitat: Found in subalpine meadows. Habit: Perennial forb/herb Height: 3 ft. Spread: 2-4 ft. Foliage Color: Green Leaves: Long, smooth leaves Flower Color: Yellow Flower Form: Composite Flowering Season: Early to mid spring Cultural Requirements: Partial shade; moderate watering. Propagation: Seeds - cold, damp stratification approximately 5-7 weeks minimum. Uses and Notes of Interest: Popular in English flower gardens but neglected in the U.S. Sow anytime.

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FACT SHEET: Iris missouriensis Common Name: Rocky Mountain Iris Other Common Names: Western Blue Flag Scientific Name: Iris missouriensis Family: Iridaceae Distribution: From the western great plains to the Pacific Ocean Habitat: Mountain meadows and stream banks Habit: Upright perennial Height: 1-2 feet Spread: 6 inches per plant, but plants may form larger clumps Foliage Color: Bright Green Leaves: Long, narrow upright leaves Flower Color: Light blue-violet Flower Form: Large 2-3 inch flowers, usually one per stem, with 3 showy petals Flowering Season: Early summer Cultural Requirements: Prefers full sun and moist soil, with lower water needs later in the season. Propagation: Seeds require at least 3-4 months of cold, moist chilling, and they may begin to germinate in chilling. Also propagated by dividing the rhizomes. Uses and Notes of Interest: This attractive plant does well in residential flower beds – it looks like a smaller version of the commonly cultivated iris. Its relatively short-lived large light-blue flowers develop into seed-filled pods. The plant gets its scientific name, Iris missouriensis, because Lewis and Clark discovered it in the upper Missouri river drainage of western Montana (western Nebraska is the closest it actually gets to the pre-sent-day state of Missouri).

Rocky Mountain Iris in a residential

flower bed – David Wallace photo,

May 23, 2007

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FACT SHEET: Krascheninnikovia lanata

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: winterfat Other Common Names: white sage Scientific Name: Krascheninnikovia lanata/ Ceratoides lanata/ Eurotia lanata Family: Chenopodiaceae Distribution: Western North America Habitat: dry valley bottoms, flat mesas and hillsides Habit: subshrub, semi-evergreen Height: 1-4 ft. Spread: 1-3 ft. Foliage Color: gray-green, hairy Leaves: to 1.5” long, linear to lance-shaped Flower Color: white, wooly Flower Form: nearly inconspicuous, clustered Flowering Season: April -September Cultural Requirements: Full sun. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of flooding, excess water or acidic soils. Propagation: Seeds – no stratification needed, do not cover seeds as light is required for germination. Seeds have a short period of viability, so do not save seeds longer than 2 years. Uses and Notes of Interest: Good forage for animals and birds especially during winter. Mature seed heads are wonderful in dried arrangements, but do not cut the plant back more than 50% when dormant. Prune in early spring for bushier growth. Blackfoot Indians soaked the leaves in warm water for a hair wash.

Photo: USU extension

http://seedsofsuccess.smugmug.com/

Bureau-of-Land-Management/BLM-

CA930A/15256925_2Ld2NR/58/148931

6971_rWGsc5V#!

i=1489316892&k=sJkkMRK

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FACT SHEET: Lupinus sericeus

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Silky Lupine Other Common Names: Pursh‟s lupine Scientific Name: Lupinus sericeus Etymology: sericeus means silky, referring to the soft hairs on the plant Family: Fabaceae Distribution: Western North America, Habitat: Moderately dry, open slopes, plains to montane zones Habit: bushy perennial, erect Height: 8-25 in. Spread: to 18 in. Foliage Color: silvery green Leaves: palmately compound with 7-9 leaflets, hairy with silky hairs on both sides Flower Color: lavender to blue, sometimes white, rarely yellowish Flower Form: pea-like Flowering Season: May-August Fruit: silky pods, 2-3 cm long with 2-7 lightly pinkish brown seeds Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, somewhat shade intolerant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intoler-ant of heavy clay soils. Propagation: Seeds – plant in fall or cold, moist stratification for 4 weeks, nick seed coat for best germination alternatively place in hot water for 5-10 seconds immediately transfer to cold water overnight prior to placing into cold stratification; Vegetative – root division may be possible. NOTE: inoculate with Rhizobium for best results. Uses and Notes of Interest: Nitrogen fixer. Highly toxic to sheep, causes birth defects in cattle. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

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FACT SHEET: Penstemon centranthifolius

Common Name: scarlet bugler Other Common Names: Scientific Name: Penstemon centranthifolius Family: Plantaginiaceae Distribution: sea level to 6000 feet Habitat: deserts, foothills Habit: large, multi-stemmed Height: 4-5 feet Spread: 1-2 feet Foliage Color: gray-green Leaves: glaucous by stems Flower Color: scarlet Flower Form: tubes Flowering Season: May-June Cultural Requirements: full sun; gravelly, sandy soil, open land; dry Propagation: seed Uses and Notes of Interest: does best where temperature doesn‟t get below 15°F. Ultimate hummingbird penstemon.

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FACT SHEET: Penstemon fendleri Common Name: Fendler penstemon Other Common Names: Fendler‟s beardtongue Scientific Name: Penstemon fendleri Family: Scrophulariaceae Distribution: central, eastern NM to OK, TX and southeast AZ Habitat: hillsides, open areas Habit: tall, upright Height: 8-20 inches Spread: 6-12 inches Foliage Color: gray-green Leaves: thick pointed tips Flower Color: blue-violet Flower Form: distinct whorls around stem Flowering Season: April-August- depending on habitat Cultural Requirements: full sun; gravelly, sandy soil, open land; low water Propagation: seed Uses and Notes of Interest: early bloomer, space several plants together for good display

http://www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/newmex/sanandres/

Photoshop_gallery/plants/images/Purple-penstemon.jpg

http://www.wildflower.org/image_archive/640x480/SS1/

SS1_IMG0138.JPG

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FACT SHEET: Penstemon grandiflorus

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Shell-leaf Beardtongue Other Common Names: Large-flowered Beardtongue, Wild Foxglove Scientific Name: Penstemon grandiflorus Etymology: grandiflorus refers to large flowered Family: Plantaginaceae (Schrophulariaceae) Distribution: Great Plains and Front Range of the Rockies Habitat: prairie Habit: rather short lived perennial Height: to 4 ft. Spread: to 2 ft. Foliage Color: gray-green to blue-green Leaves: opposite along stem, oval-shaped with a blunt tip, waxy Flower Color: pinkish lavender Flower Form: tubular, to 2 in. long, in pairs (or triplets) along the upper third of the stem Flowering Season: May– July (usually for 3 weeks) Fruit: Capsules Cultural Requirements: Full sun, somewhat shade intoler-ant. Moist to dry, poor, well drained sandy or gravelly soils. Propagation: Seeds – cold, moist stratification for 4-6 weeks. Vegetative – careful division of the crown may be possible. Uses and Notes of Interest: Flowers mostly lacking in scent. Dieback after blooming common. Looks best when massed. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent. Leaf spots and rusts.

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FACT SHEET: Penstemon secundifloris

Common Name: sidebells penstemon Other Common Names: Scientific Name: Penstemon secundifloris Family: Scrophulariaceae Distribution: Wyoming to New Mexico in eastern plains, foothills, lower elevations in Rocky Mountains Habitat: 5400-9000 foot elevation Habit: tall, upright, smooth, waxy-like Height: 6-20 inches Spread: Foliage Color: blue-green Leaves: form a rosette Flower Color: pinks, lavenders Flower Form: Flowering Season: May/June Cultural Requirements: full sun; gravelly, sandy soil Propagation: seed Uses and Notes of Interest: Long lived, flowers all point in one direction, earliest bloomer.

NPS Photo by Sally King

http://wildflowerswest.org/Images/Blue-Purple-Page-1/

penstemon_secundiflorus/sidebells_penstemon_1.jpg

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FACT SHEET: Penstemon spectabilis

Common Name: showy penstemon Other Common Names: spectabilis Scientific Name: Penstemon spectabilis Family: Distribution: 380-7900‟ Habitat: dry washes, hillsides Habit: erect , long stemmed Height: 8-20” Spread: 12-18” Foliage Color: bluish-gray Leaves: sharply toothed Flower Color: red-violet Flower Form: tubes Flowering Season: June Cultural Requirements: full sun; gravelly, sandy soil, low water Propagation: seed Uses and Notes of Interest: does best where temperature doesn‟t get below 10°F. name means highly visible

http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/~awolfe/pics/

Pspectabilis.jpg

http://calphotos.berkeley.edu/

imgs/512x768/6212_3041/0635/0094.jpeg

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FACT SHEET: Petalostemum purpureum

Common Name: Purple prairie clover Other Common Names: Scientific Name: Petalostemum purpureum Family: Fabaceae Distribution: Native to the north central portion of the United States. Habit: Upright perennial forb Height: 1-3 ft. Spread: 1-3 ft. Foliage Color: Green Leaves: The sparse leaves are divided into 3-7 leaflets each 1/2 - 3/4" long. Flower Color: Lavender-purple Flower Form: Flowers are concentrated on slender cones at the ends of wiry stems. Flowering Season: May-September Cultural Requirements: Prefers sandy, sandy-loam, or well-drained soils in full sun. Propagation: Field seed is planted in the fall, and not placed into cold storage. If unable to plant in the fall try moist stratification for 2-3 months and the plant. Requires 14-30 days to germinate at 1/16” depth. Uses and Notes of Interest: Blooms begin to open from the base of the cone and slowly ascend to the tip. Very drought tolerant due to an extensive root system which may makes transplanting difficult. Excellent high protein forage for livestock.

http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/prairie/plantx/

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FACT SHEET: Phragmites australis subsp. americanus

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: American Common Reed Other Common Names: Common Reed Scientific Name: Phragmites australis subsp. ameri-canus Etymology: Alisma is an ancient Greek name Family: Poaceae (Grass Family) Distribution: Worldwide - 2 native subspecies in North America, 1 introduced from Eurasia Habitat: wetlands, marshes Habit: perennial Height: to 8(10) ft. Spread: na Foliage Color: green Leaves: linear, grassy blade to 20 inches long Flower Color: na Flower Form: highly branched inflorescence at top of stem Flowering Season: June - October Fruit: grain Cultural Requirements: Full sun, shade intolerant. WATER PLANT. Muddy soil to shallow (to 18 in) water. Tolerates moist soil, but not totally dry soil. Propagation: Seeds – cold, moist stratification for 4-6 weeks, keep soil wet (to saturated) once growth states place pot in shallow water (just above soil surface but not submerging young plant). Vegetative – divisions and rhizomes. Uses and Notes of Interest: Can become weedy, but if kept on drier side should behave. Good plant for soil stabilization along waterways. Bamboo-like growth and look. Used for roof thatching in Europe. Makes good nesting tubes for Mason bees. Young stems, seeds and rhizomes are edible.

Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.

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FACT SHEET: Ratibida columnifera

Common Name: Mexican hat Other Common Names: Prairie coneflower, long-head cone-flower Scientific Name: Ratibida columnifera Family: Asteraceae Distribution: Widespread in much of North America Habitat: Prairies and grasslands Habit: Herbaceous perennial, sometimes treated as an an-nual Height: 1-3 ft. Spread: 1-3 ft. Foliage Color: Green Leaves: To 2.5” long, deeply pinnately divided Flower Color: Mahogany red, sometimes with hints of orange or yellow (yellow forms are possible) Flower Form: Composite head; cone shaped, ringed by petaloid flowers Flowering Season: Summer - fall Cultural Requirements: Full sun. Well drained soil. Tolerates heat and humidity, but does not like wet feet during the winter, intolerant of wet, heavy clay soils at any time. Propagation: Seeds (flowers in second year), division of clumps in spring when plants are young (not woody). Uses and Notes of Interest: A good addition to a butterfly garden. May have problems with downy or pow-dery mildew if watered by overhead sprinklers. Can naturalize under some conditions.

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FACT SHEET: Rudbeckia sp. Common Name: Coneflowers, black-eyed-susans; Alternate Names: Black-eyed Susan, Brown-eyed Susan, Conedisk, Conedisk Sunflower, Gloriosa Daisy Tall Cone-flower Scientific Name: Rudbeckia Family: Asteraceae Distribution: Throughout the US Habitat: Zones 4 – 9, drought tolerant Habit: Perennial, some annual or biennial) growing to 0.5-3 m tall, with simple or branched stems. The leaves are spirally arranged, entire to deeply lobed, 5-25 cm long. With yellow or orange florets arranged in a prominent, cone-shaped head Height: Varies greatly, from dwarf (1 ft.) varieties like „Becky‟ and „Toto‟, to the giant coneflower Rudbeckia maxima, which can reach 9' tall. Commonly 12” –14” Spread: single stem Foliage Color: Green Leaves: Spirally arranged, entire to deeply lobed, 5-25 cm long. Flower Form: Daisy-like inflorescences, with yellow or or-ange florets arranged in a prominent, cone-shaped head Flower Color: Yellow to orange Flowering season: Mid-summer to fall. Cultural requirement: Full Sun / Partial Shade. Best flowering will be in full sun. Medium drought tolerance, pH 6.0-7.0. Prefers medium textured soil Propagation: Seed started perennials can bloom the first year if started early. Uses of interest: are used as food plants by the caterpillars of some Lepidoptera species including Cabbage Moth and Dot Moth

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FACT SHEET: Salix spp.

Common Name: Willow Other Common Names: Scientific Name: Salix spp. Family: Salicaceae Distribution: Western United States Habitat: Riparian areas within the Western United States Habit: Perennial shrub/subshrub Height: 6-12 ft. Spread: 6-12 ft. Foliage Color: varies Leaves: varies Flower Color: varies Flower Form: Clusters of small flowers Flowering Season: Mid spring to early summer Cultural Requirements: Native to wet areas; however, once established is relatively drought tolerant. Very adaptable; tolerates occasional heavy pruning. Propagation: Because this is a succoring, riparian shrub, it is very easy to propagate. Place 6-12” long cuttings into wet potting soil and water for 4-8 weeks or until rooted. Cuttings can be taken at various times of the year. If cuttings are taken during the growing season, strip all but one or two leaves off the branch. Be careful not to tear bark. Have experienced upwards of 80% rooting success. Uses and Notes of Interest: May need occasional renewal pruning by removing ¼ to 1/3 of branches start-ing with the most mature annually. This may help to expose younger branches with more intense bark color. Commonly used as an informal screening hedge. Needs room to grow. No native species commonly available within the nursery trade. With overwatering, some willow species can become invasive. Under no circum-stances should you plant S. exigua (Coyote or Sandbar willow); once established, it is nearly impossible to remove.

http://www.wildutah.us/html/plants_scenery/http://www.wildutah.us/html/plants_scenery/

h_diamondleaf_willow_salix_planifolia.htmlh_diamondleaf_willow_salix_planifolia.html

Sheri Hagwood @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

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FACT SHEET: Wyethia amplexicaulis

Text by: Michael Piep, USU - Intermountain Herbarium Common Name: Mule‟s ears Other Common Names: Mule-ears Scientific Name: Wyethia amplexicaulis Etymology: named for Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth, an early Western explorer Family: Asteraceae Distribution: Primarily Northern and Central Rocky Mountain Region Habitat: dry meadows, open hillsides, foothills, canyons Habit: long lived perennial with woody taproot Height: 3 ft. Spread: 3 ft. Foliage Color: dark green Leaves: basal leaves round, shiny; stem leaves shiny, lance-shaped to 16 in. Flower Color: yellow Flower Form: daily-like, usually a single large head atop the stem to 4 in. across Flowering Season: April– June Fruit: dry brownish achenes Cultural Requirements: Full sun, somewhat shade intolerant. Moist to dry, well drained clay or gravelly soils. Propagation: Seeds – cold, moist stratification for 4 weeks. Vegetative – careful division of the crown may be possible Uses and Notes of Interest: Strongly aromatic. Reported to be edible. Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent. Can be aggressive in heavy clay soils.

Photo: Richard J. Shaw, © Intermountain Herbarium, 2012. Used with permission

Photo: Roger Banner, © Intermountain Herbarium

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This publication is issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Noelle E. Cockett, Vice President for Extension and Agriculture, Utah State University.