Vol. 34 No. 2 • April 2019 · 2019. 4. 1. · brad carrick-lexinton, nc larry brewer-ashland, ky jerome elliott-columbia, ky monte geer-colstrip, mt ron butcher-dyersburg, tn

TM

■ Cover Car■ New Members■ Now Showing■ Hubcap Article■ Word Find■ Find the

Hidden Clouds■ Classifieds■ Adventures of Barney

Vol. 34 No. 2 • April 2019

National Chevy Assoc. would like to say “Welcome to the Club” to new members and to the “old-timers” renewing their membership.

R. PAREDES-MURRIETA, CAMARIO MORENO-LA MESA, CABUD FRENZEL-PENNSAUKEN, NJDAVE FITHIAN-SPOKAN, WAROBERT WALLACE-PHOENIZ, AZED GALYEN-THE WOODLANDS, TXGLENN GLOCK-BILLINGS, MTJAMES BAKER-PADEN CITY, WVEUGENE COGGINS-MEDFORD, ORBRAD CARRICK-LEXINTON, NCLARRY BREWER-ASHLAND, KYJEROME ELLIOTT-COLUMBIA, KYMONTE GEER-COLSTRIP, MTRON BUTCHER-DYERSBURG, TNMIKE GENTRY-ANDERSON, INJAMES CARNFORTH-VIRGINIA BEACHLES SCHILD-MERIDIAN, IDKENNETH THOMAS-CUMMING, GAMIKE DILLARD-EDMUND, OKDAMON PEREZ-KILLEEN, TXWAYNE HANDSHOE-MUNCIE, IN

EVERETT ATILANO, CAJEFF CHASE-ELGIN, OKSTEVE MILLER-WINTER SPRINGS, FLDAVID MONROE-AUBREY, TXJULIAN CEBALLOS-BAKERSFEILD, CADARYL DAUGS-GIG HARBOR, WAWALTER CARTLIDGE-CREAM RIDGE, NJROBERT METKA-BOYERTOWN, PAJERRY CARMONA-LANCASTER, CATHOMAS LOPEZ-HOUSTON, TXLARRY WALKER-MCDONOUGH, GAVICTOR DURAND-LAS VAGAS, NVLOR MCGREAL-PEORIA, AZBONNIE BURROW-BURBANK, CADAVID TRUELOVE-TUCSON, AZJASON SCHEIDEL-ELGIN, IADARREL LIESKE-APACHE JUNCTION, AZELAINE SIMS-STATHAM, GAJOHN COLLINS-LAWRENCEBURG, TNMARIO TORRES-DONNA, TXKEN MAXAM-KALAMAZOO, MI

Welcome to the Club __________CHARLES STEPHENSON-MEDFORD, OHCHRIS CRUZ-SAN JOSE, CAGARY KOSCIELNIAK-VAN BUREN, MILES PEARSON-DOUGLAS CITY, CAMARCOS VAPATA-LOVELAND, TXJAMES HATFIELD-FRAKES, KYGLEN NEWELL-FORNEY, TXJOE GONZALES-ALBUQERQUE, NMPAUL SALDANA-GIDDINGS, TXDAVID GEATCHES-NORTH JACKSON, OHALAN DOWNING-WARNERS, NYHEATH BRAINARD-=KASPER, WYANTHONY NUNLEY-PALMER, TNDON TH0MPSON-WICHITA, KSMICHAEL MORENO-ANCHORAGE, AKTODD SCHROEDER-ENGLEWOOD, COJOHNNY RAZO-NORTH LAS VEGAS, NVDONALD SIMMONS-FREEDOM, PAJAMES SHELLEY-BELLEVUE, OHJOE ZUGMIER-LINCOLN, NEDAVID STIX-FERNLEY, NV

April 2019 The National Chevy AssociationTM 1

Hi from Nat’l. Chevy, It’s been a long winter and we all hope it gets over soon. During early February and early March we had about 40” of snow, along with some very cold weather. We were on our vacation so we missed some of it, like the storm that closed I-35 for 2 days. We left in a rush the day before it started and its good we did or we would have barely made the race we wanted to get to. We are supposed to get some 40° temps this week, so hopefully that will happen. If it warms too fast we’ll have some serious flooding, though.

Things are keeping busy here. We’re not working on any special projects right now, just keeping everything in stock (or trying to). Suppliers have been slow on shipping and have been out of some items for a long time. ‘Tis the season, so I hope they get them in soon. I haven’t been to the shop yet as we just got back, but apparently some ice came off the roof and smashed the windshield and hood on our truck. There’s always something on. Time to go - ‘Til next time....

New Parts1951-52

Front Splash Pan

1951-52 Tail Light Assembly

1954 headlight rim clips

Order #4652

$249Great reproduction

Order #507-CLIP

$12Does both headlight bezels

Order #4448

$99pr.Complete with bezels, backing plate, lens,

12V bulbs and wiring.

2 The National Chevy AssociationTM April 2019

Hubcap Article ____________________Attached is the way I came up with keeping the large 1953 Chevy hubcaps on. I got tired of losing and running over them. Feel free to use this as you wish.

Glenn

Many thanks to Glenn for sending this article in. Helpful hints are always welcomed by old car owners.

Keeping the large 1953 Chevy hubcaps on.

My experience has been that the large 1953 Chevy hubcaps have a tendency

to come flying off. I have run over and destroyed several of these and they can get

expensive to replace. This is especially true for the front wheels. I have tried suggestions

about bending the clips and such. None of these seem to work very well. Out of

desperation I decided to figure a way to attach these so they will not fly off. This is what

I came up with.

I have enclosed both a picture and a crude drawing. Do the following steps.

This can be done with the wheel on the vehicle even though it is a bit more difficult.

For this you will need a #29 drill bit, an 8-32 tap, #16 drill bit, 4 chrome or

stainless ¾ inch 8-32 screws, and electric or battery powered drill.

Please note: Steps 1-8 uses the #29 drill.

1. with the hubcap on the wheel starting at the air valve, count the number of small

indentions around the wheel and write the number down. (There are approximately 100.

(I counted 102)

2. Davide this number by 4 so as to put each approximately 90 degrees from each other.

3. starting 3 or 4 indentions from the valve stem center punch and drill a hole through

both the hubcap and the wheel at 90 degrees (see drawing)from the hubcap and as close

to ¼ inch from the indentions. (Do not make the first mistake I made and drill between

the wheel weld which is about the center of the indentions. This will cause the wheel to

leak if there is any pitted rust on the inside of the wheel and you will have a leaky

wheel)

My experience has been that the large 1953 Chevy hubcaps have a tendency to come flying off. I have run over and destroyed several of these and they can get expensive to replace. This is especially true for the front wheels. I have tried suggestions about bending the clips and such. None of these seem to work very well. Out of desperation I decided to figure a way to attach these so they will not fly off. This is what I came up with. I have enclosed both a picture and a crude drawing. Do the following steps. This can be done with the wheel on the vehicle even though it is a bit more difficult. For this you will need a #29 drill bit, an 8-32 tap, #16 drill bit, 4 chrome or stainless ¾ inch 8-32 screws, and electric or battery powered drill.Please note: Steps 1-8 uses the #29 drill.

Keeping the large 1953 Chevy hubcaps on.


PARTS LINE CLUB NEWSLETTER Volume 34 Issue 2, April 2019 is published monthly by National Chevy Association 947 Arcade St. St. Paul, MN 55106. Periodicals postage pending at St. Paul, MN, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to NATIONAL CHEVY ASSOCIATION 947 Arcade St., St. Paul, MN 55106.

_________________ Hubcap Article

1. With the hubcap on the wheel starting at the air valve, count the number of small indentions around the wheel and write the number down. (There are approximately 100. (I counted 102) 2. Divide this number by 4 so as to put each approximately 90 degrees from each other. 3. Starting 3 or 4 indentions from the valve stem center punch and drill a hole through both the hubcap and the wheel at 90 degrees (see drawing) from the hubcap and as close to ¼ inch from the indentions. (Do not make the first mistake I made and drill between the wheel weld which is about the center of the indentions. This will cause the wheel to leak if there is any pitted rust on the inside of the wheel and you will have a leaky wheel)

4. Count the indentions from this first drill and count the ¼ number you got from the total number. (This should be somewhere around 25.) Now center punch and drill this hole. 5. Count the indentions from this hole for the 3rd hole (If you get the total indentions I did (102) this hole should be the 26th indention. This should put it at exactly 180 degrees from the first hole. Center punch and drill this hole. 6. Count 25 indentions from the last hole drilled, center punch and drill this hole. 7. This should be all 4 holes drilled through the hubcap and the wheel. 8. Remove the hubcap and tap each hole for a 8-32 screw. 9. Using #16 drill (for loose screw clearance) re-drill each hole in the hubcap to allow clearance for the 8-32 screws. 10. When replacing hubcap be careful to align all screw holes with the tapped holes. A good way for this is to use a very small screwdriver and place in each hole and use as a feeler. 11. Using chrome or stainless screws attach the hubcap. Tighten until a small indentation is started in the hubcap. Do not over tighten.

4. Count the indentions from this first drill and count the ¼ number you got from thetotal number. (This should be somewhere around 25.) Now center punch and drill thishole. 5. Count the indentions from this hole for the 3rd hole (If you get the total indentions I

did (102) this hole should be the 26th indention. This should put it at exactly 180 degreesfrom the first hole. Center punch and drill this hole.

6. Count 25 indentions from the last hole drilled, center punch and drill this hole.

7. This should be all 4 holes drilled through the hubcap and the wheel.8. Remove the hubcap and tap each hole for a 8-32 screw.9. Using #16 drill (for loose screw clearance) re-drill each hole in the hubcap

to allow clearance for the 8-32 screws.

10. When replacing hubcap be careful to align all screw holes with the tapped holes. Agood way for this is to use a very small screwdriver and place in each hole and use as a

feeler.11. Using chrome or stainless screws attach the hubcap. Tighten until as small

indentation is started in the hubcap. Do not over tighten.

4. Count the indentions from this first drill and count the ¼ number you got from thetotal number. (This should be somewhere around 25.) Now center punch and drill thishole. 5. Count the indentions from this hole for the 3rd hole (If you get the total indentions I

did (102) this hole should be the 26th indention. This should put it at exactly 180 degreesfrom the first hole. Center punch and drill this hole.

6. Count 25 indentions from the last hole drilled, center punch and drill this hole.

7. This should be all 4 holes drilled through the hubcap and the wheel.8. Remove the hubcap and tap each hole for a 8-32 screw.9. Using #16 drill (for loose screw clearance) re-drill each hole in the hubcap

to allow clearance for the 8-32 screws.

10. When replacing hubcap be careful to align all screw holes with the tapped holes. Agood way for this is to use a very small screwdriver and place in each hole and use as a

feeler.11. Using chrome or stainless screws attach the hubcap. Tighten until as small

indentation is started in the hubcap. Do not over tighten.


Cover Car _________________________ My name is Rick Janzen from Detroit Lakes, Minnesota. Having moved here from Winkler, Manitoba, I brought my vehicles with me, including this 1952 Chevrolet Styleline. I owned two when I was growing up as a kid in Winnipeg. This car I purchased back in early 1990, with approx. 74,000 miles on it. Garaged almost all its life, it sat idle 20+ years in a barn until I bought it. The body is pretty well rust free. The brakes needed an overhaul. Seats had been recovered prior to my getting it. The syncros being worn second to third gear, I replaced the transmission, clutch, pressure-plate, release bearing and also the rear end internals about six years ago. It is the base model sedan, with not even an oil filter on it. (Got one years ago, still hanging on a nail in my shop.) A number of accessories have been added on over the years, as I find them at antique shops, flea markets, etc. Dual exhausts was one of the first ones to be added. New floor carpet was installed last fall. Paint is still original except for some sun-bleached paint touch-up on the top of the hood and front fender tops!

The car was originally purchased at Community Motors in Winnipeg. It was delivered with a 235 C.I. engine, and 1950 Chevrolet hubcaps! I’m thinking it was a close to a year-end manufacture assembly, accounting for the engine not being the normally-installed 216. Apparently only automatic transmission models got the 235 larger engine. When I got it, it would do about 11 miles on a quart of oil. Switching immediately to a low detergent 30W oil, I now can do 1,000 miles without adding. The rings re-seated, and so far, all is original, other than a tappet adjustment. It’s been up to Canada, and back, no problems. My goal is to keep the history, and old car smell, in the car. I still enjoy driving it, like the first time when I bought it, bringing back a lot of good memories of my youth.

P.S. Thanks for the monthly newsletter. Always enjoy getting it.

Rick JanzenDetroit Lakes, Minnesota


______________________Cover Car


choose your specialBig Sale • Save Big • Big Sale • Save Big • Big Sale • Save Big

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Free 10%

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PLEATED DOOR PANELS

on Classic Custom, Classic Custom II, Century Custom,

Vintage II, or Deluxe Interiors.

BUILD UP KIT on any interior

for front OR rear seat.

IN FREE PARTS

BUY ANY INTERIOR AND RECEIVE

10% OF YOUR TOTAL IN

FREE PARTS

PLEATED SEATSon Century Custom or

Vintage custom Interiors.

$195

Seat Back Kit 1 Layer cotton

1 Layer Liner

1 Layer Compressed Cotton

1 Layer Liner

1 Layer Poly Felt

1 Layer Burlap

Save $150

FREE INTERIOR

SAMPLES.Call 651-778-9522 or our interior

department at 651-772-9722.


choose your specialBig Sale • Save Big • Big Sale • Save Big • Big Sale • Save Big

Here’s How It Works:Name: John SmithAddress: 123 Main St.City: Anywhere State: US Zip: 00000__________________________________________________________________________________Item # Description Price6658-P Custom Royal Int. 1859.00 Pleated Door Panels 195.00 Color - Gray Total 2054.00 Less 10% Rebate -205.00($205.00 in FREE New Parts from Catalog) 1849.00 Shipping 160.00(Shipping is $160.00 - all orders will be shipped at one time)TOTAL 2009.00

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SHIPPINGon any interior.

INTERIOR KIT INCLUDES:Carpet & PadSeat CoversHeadliner / Windlace / VisorsKick PanelsRear Deck PanelEverything You Need to Complete Your Interior


Now Showing ______________________Hello from Good old Decatur, Illinois

My handle is “BelAirBob1” and I bought my 1954 new in December of 1954 from ElBauer here in Decatur. The sticker price was $2,300, but I traded in a 1953 Chevy Black 210 two door. The car is Turquoise and Ivory. The equipment that was included was: Three On the Tree, bolt on oil filter, tool kit, push button radio, fender skirts, white wall tires, back-up lights and full wheel covers, rear view mirror on dash and turn signals. It also had combined cloth and vinyl seats. The headliner is also vinyl. Mirror on dash for SPT CPE only.

In 1995, it was restored with 122,946 miles including rebuilt engine with standard rings, little body work and repainted. I have three sets of clear plastic seat covers on since new.

I ordered from good old NCA new wheel covers and just recently new hood springs with tool to use. Many other parts also came from NCA over the years.

The car now has 152,754 miles on it and is going strong. The radio does not work but who listens to radio when you can roll down the windows and enjoy the ride. My neighbor that did all the work has a 1954 also, but it is a hot rod.

Here are pictures for you, including the original tool kit. Have fun with this. I sure do have fun driving it in warm and dry weather.

BelAirBob Decatur IIDecatur, Illinois


Words may be found forwards, backwards and diagonally.

V B L R E T R A T S M N S C P

E A H W S P A R K P L U G S W

V A L C E C O V E R Z A L Y T

G R O T O M R E P I W R K R A

L S T E M M O R G N U E O E T

N S K L U C O I L G K T B T S

H T B O L T S N W S A L U T O

E E F T A L B C O R F I N A M

A K F I R S T L E B P F C B R

T S D O M A P N H U M L D D E

E A V E H C E P A C L I O B H

R G U L O G M H S E S O H R T

STARTERRADIATORCOILGENERATORSPARK PLUGSTHERMOSTAT

OIL FILTERSPRINGSWIPER MOTORHEATERGROMMETSVALVE COVER

HOSESBOLTSOIL CAPBATTERYBELTS GASKETS

________ Under The Hood Word Find


In this issue you will find five clouds hidden in articles or ads. To enter the contest, find the clouds, fill in the form below and mail or fax your entry to us by May 15, 2019. On May 16 we will draw the contest winner. Remember - if you don’t enter you can’t win. Have fun. Contest open to current members only please.

Entry FormName ____________________________________________________________________________________

Address __________________________________________________________________________________

City, State, Zip_____________________________________________ Phone (______) __________________

What pages did you find the clouds on?

Page _____ Page _____ Page _____ Page _____ Page _____

Congratulations to Timothy Britt of Bernville, PA, winner of the Hidden Heart Contest.

& Win a $75.00Gift Certificate

April ShowersBring MayFlowers...

Find the Hidden Clouds


FOR SALE — 1949-50 2-dr. Fleetline, body 1951, 4-dr., parts car, all running gear; 1951 2-dr. Fleetline Deluxe, complete car; 1 set of new Chevy ralley wheels in box; 1 1953 truck motor w/powerglide trans.; 2 original sunvi-sors; 1 new rebuilt 350 transmission; all new sheet metal for ‘51 2-dr. Fleetline.; some new parts, $3000. AL (205) 601-7170.

Apr___________________________

PARTS WANTED WANTED — Side chrome for ‘51, ‘52 Chev. Goes on quarter panel sides. Gary Williams. (806) 438-1432 Cell.

May___________________________

CARS FOR SALEFOR SALE — 1953 Chevy 150 series, six cylin-der, body good & frame good condition, runs. Call Tom (716) 200-7371. $4,000 OBO.

June___________________________

FOR SALE — 1953 210 Chevy, crazy plum, 283/275 HP 700 R4 trans, disc front brakes, many extras. $17,500. (651) 260-7473

Apr___________________________

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATESPlease advertise ‘49 through ‘54 Chev parts only. “Parts-Line” is printed once monthly and members receive 3 free 25-word ads per year. Ads over 25 words run 10¢ per word over the 25 word limit. Ad rates for non-members are $3.00 up to 25 words and 10¢ per word thereafter. All ads will run for 3 consecutive issues unless cancelled by you. Please put prices on items that you adver-tise. Mail 947 Arcade, St. Paul, MN 55106 or fax 1-800-785-5354 or email [email protected] ads before the first of the previous month.

FOR SALE — Hi lift intake rocker arm kit, ‘49-52, American made, $22; 1954 Owner’s Manual, very nice, $17; Delco Battery war-ranty, unused, $3; 1 pair original ‘53 park lens, $19; ‘53 trunk paint chart, 2 page with code and interior colors, $17. Rich (585) 468-2264. Parts & postage.

June___________________________

FOR SALE — Pair of 51-52 front assy. bum-per corner guards. Good re-plateable cores. $300 obo. Call Kennith @ 918-448-7957, OK

June___________________________

FOR SALE — 1952 Park light lens, new, $14; 1951 Owners Manual with unused Service Policy, $17; 1949-50 NOS ventilator valve #368863, mint, $20; 1949 glass park lens, new $15. Rich, NY (585) 468-2264. Buyer pays postage.

June___________________________

FOR SALE — 1954 power glide transmis-sion, rebuilt less than 1000 miles on it, also complete differential, new bearings, seals, wheel cylinders and brake shoes & spring kit, $700. 4 7.10-15 tires, BF Goodrich, less than 1000 miles on them $600. Ed (724-538-4492)

May___________________________

FOR SALE — 1 49-52 generator pulley and fan 597667 NOS, $18; 1 pkg. door handle rivet, 49-64 at $3; 1950 216 eng. needle & seat, NOS, $3. Rich, NY (585) 468-2264. Please add for postage.

May___________________________

FOR SALE — 1952 Chevy Business Coupe, black, 3-speed, 216 total restoration, AACA senior VA. Region senior, N.C. Region senior (Red Bird) owned 34 years, $22,500. Bob Mor-rison, 283 Redbud Lane, Fincastle, VA 24090. Cell (540) 580-7421. Home (540) 992-1427. I work part-time, so call back if I do not re-spond promptly.

May___________________________FOR SALE — 1953 Chevy BelAir convert-ible. Sun gold and ivory. All original less than 78,000 miles, completely restored. Call Ray at MN (507) 645-7777.

Apr___________________________

FOR SALE — 1951-52 convertible collec-tion. One complete ‘51 convertible, rough, but complete. Second is restored frame and running gear, hardtop body that was upside down in yard for 30+ years, beautiful bot-tom with all the critical parts to make 2nd convertible, top frame, top rear basket, wind-shield header. Please call if interested, make one convertible or 2. Most convertible parts to complete two cars and much more. Price $5500 for both with parts. Reason for selling - health. Zane (920) 756-2043. WI

May___________________________

PARTS FOR SALE

NATIONAL CHEVY’S FAX LINE.

Place orders 24 hours a day. Email or Fax Ads.

[email protected]: (651) 778-9686 or

1-800-785-5354Or phone us at (651) 778-9522 Monday - Friday 9 a.m.-12 p.m., 12:30 p.m.-5 p.m. Central time.


We want to know.CHANGE OF ADDRESS FORM

Name _________________________________________________ Phone ________________________________

Address ______________________________________________________________________________________

City ___________________________________________ State ______ Zip ____________

Return to: National Chevy Assoc., 947 Arcade, St. Paul, MN 55106 • Fax 1-800-785-5354 or 651-778-9686.

Enjoy the ride...


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Documents

Vol. 34 No. 2 • April 2019 · 2019. 4. 1. · brad carrick-lexinton, nc larry brewer-ashland, ky jerome elliott-columbia, ky monte geer-colstrip, mt ron butcher-dyersburg, tn