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Weaving
A Treasured Kentucky Handicraft
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Handicraft vs. Handcraft
• Handicraft (noun) = the skill or trade of making decorative or useful objects by hand; or object made by hand • “The handicraft of weaving should be preserved.”
• Handcraft (noun) = variant of handicraft• “These handcrafts are very valuable.”
• Handcraft (verb) = to engage in making a hand-made item• “We will handcraft the scarves with our knitting needles.”
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Weaving is almost as old a human civilization
• Remnants dating back to 5000 B.C. have been found in Egypt
• Cotton and linen textiles dating 2500 B.C. have also been found in the Middle East
• The Old Testament even identified three types of weavers:• Plain weavers
• Multicolor weavers
• Art weavers
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Early fibers used in spun yarns for weaving cloth
• Hemp
• Raffia
• Leaf fibers
• Hair
• Wool
• Strips of animal hide
• Fur
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Colonial America
• European settlers brought looms and patterns to America
• Linen was the most abundant fiber used for clothing and household use
• Use of wool fiber began after Merino sheep were imported from Spain in the 19th century
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Woven Coverlets
• Most common of the textiles that remain from the 1800s
• Woven on a simple loom
• Illustrated a high level of craftsmanship
• Overshot weaving technique
• Scandinavian and European origins
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Kentucky’s Appalachian Mountains
• Weaving was a daily activity prior to the Industrial Revolution
• Arts and Craft Revival in the 1890s
• Berea College
• Fireside Industries• Anna Emberg hired in 1911 and served a superintendent for 25 years
• Settlement Schools• Pine Mountain
• Hindman
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Churchill Weavers
• Founded in 1922 and continued for 85 years
• Employed local weavers from Berea and the surrounding area• At its peak they had as many as 150 looms
• Supplied retailers across the nation and internationally in Europe and Asia with hand woven items
• The Kentucky Historical Society now houses The Churchill Weavers collection of 32,000 fabric samples
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Rebecca Boone Carriage Throw
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Overshot Weaving Technique
Photo Courtesy of the Kentucky Historical Society, a part of the Churchill Weaver’s Collection
Coverlet woven by
Churchill Weavers features a
combination of twill and plain weaves
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Lou Tate Bousman (1906-1979)
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
• Simply known as Lou Tate, she was born in Bowling Green and later moved to Louisville.
• Attended Berea College and the University of Michigan
• Developed the “Little Loom” to teach weaving
• Opened the “Little Loomhouse” in 1938 in Louisville
• The Lou Tate Foundation continues to operate and ensure the history of weaving and textiles arts is kept alive.
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
The “Little Loom” pictured above.
Picture on the right shows Lou Tate and Eleanor Roosevelt admire a woven coverlet at the Little Loom House in Louisville.
Photos courtesy of the littleloomhouse.org
Break for Learning Activity 1
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Basic Weaving Diagrams
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Basic Knitting Diagrams (stockinette stitch)
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Front side Reverse side
Types of Hand Weaving
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Plain Weave
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Placemat features Overshot weave
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Bookmark Woven on an Inkle Loom
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Loom Weaving
Design controlled by the weaver
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Rag Rug Plain Weave
Woven on a 4-harness floor loom
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Huck Weaving
Surface weaving on Huck toweling
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TapestryWeaving
on a box loom
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Pin Loom Weaving
Animal made by stitching woven swatches together
Break for Learning Activity 2
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Types of Looms Used for Hand Weaving
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Rigid Heddle Loom
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Flip LoomRigid Heddle
Loom
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Inkle Loom with thread heddles
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Inkle Loom with cards for controlling weaving design
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8-Harness Wolf Loom
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Tapestry Looms
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Table Loomwith 4 hand levers to
raise each shaft/harness
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Table Loomwith 8 hand levers to
raise each shaft/harness
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Countermarche Floor Loom
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Pin Loom
This example is a 4”x 4” square with a 6” long needle
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Pin Loomhttps://www.threadsmagazine.com/2010/01/25/create-intricate-fabric-with-pin-weaving
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Tools Used for Hand Weaving
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Boat ShuttleUsed for holding the weft
yarns for weaving
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Weaving Draft
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Warping Board
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Weaving Needles
Break for Learning Activity 3
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
There are a multitude of weaving resources on the internet that demonstrate
how to weave on the various looms or use other hand weaving techniques.
Be sure to visit local establishments that promote weaving.
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Questions?
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
For an information on Inkle Loom weaving go to this link:https://www.thebeginningartist.com/inkle-loom-weaving-beginners/https://www.ashford.co.nz/images/download_pdfs/learn_to/learn_to_weave_on_the_inkle_loom.pdf
For information on Pin Loom weaving, check out these links:https://handwovenmagazine.com/weaving-on-a-pin-loom/https://www.mielkesfiberarts.com/pin-loom-weaving-a-photo-tutorial/http://www.pinloomweaving.com/p/blog-page.htmlhttps://www.threadsmagazine.com/2010/01/25/create-intricate-fabric-with-pin-weaving
For an explanation of overshot weaving go to this link Overshot Handbook by Madelyn van der Hoogt: http://magazines.interweave.com.s3.amazonaws.com/cdtv/January%202015/Overshot%20handbook.pdf
Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us
Sources and Additional Reading:
https://thevintagetraveler.wordpress.com/2019/09/04/fireside-industries-handwovens-in-berea-kentucky/
https://www.appalachianhistory.net/2014/08/churchill-weavers-berea-ky.html
http://littleloomhouse.org
Broomfield, S. S. (2006). Weaving Social Change: Berea College Fireside Industries and Reform in Appalachia https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/297/
Held, S. E. (1978). Weaving, A Handbook of the Fiber Arts, Saunders College.
Tate, L. (1938). Kentucky Coverlets https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/monographs/tl_kcov.pdf
Wilson, K. C. (2001). Textile Art from Southern Appalachia: the quiet work of women. The Overmountain Press.
Many of the photos were taken at The Woolery in Frankfort, Kentucky by the original author, others were taken at her home or office.
Original AuthorMarjorie M. Baker, M.S.Extension Associate for Clothing and TextilesDecember 2019
Revising AuthorJeanne BadgettSenior Extension Associate for Clothing and TextilesMay 2020