WHALE & DOLPHIN WATCHING TRIP REPORT

MV Dive Master

TROPICAL DOLPHINS & WHALES MALDIVES

NORTH-CENTRAL ATOLLS CRUISE 22 February to 1 March 2015

TROPICAL DOLPHINS AND WHALES

MALDIVES NORTH-CENTRAL ATOLLS CRUISE M.V. Dive Master, 22 February to 1 March 2015

Summary of Anchorages

Day 1 22 Feb 2015 Kurumba (North Malé Atoll) Day 2 23 Feb 2015 Reethi Rah (North Malé Atoll) Day 3 24 Feb 2015 Muthaafushi (Baa Atoll) Day 4 25 Feb 2014 Fenfushi (Raa Atoll) Day 5 26 Feb 2015 Dhakandhoo (Baa Atoll) Day 6 27 Feb 2015 Goidhoo (Baa Atoll) Day 7 28 Feb 2015 Hulumalé (North Malé Atoll) Day 8 1 March 2015 Departure  

Day 1, Sunday 22 Feb 2015

We all met as scheduled at the airport, and after a short delay our dhoni arrived to transfer us to the main boat. The delay was fortuitous because on the way we encountered a small school of Spinner Dolphins, heading quietly along the reef edge. We turned to travel in the same direction, and they briefly obliged us by riding alongside. Soon after boarding Dive Master, our home for the week, lunch was served. Then there was time to unpack and relax (during which some Common Terns were spotted in the lagoon) before heading off for an afternoon snorkel. There was still a stiff breeze, which made the sea slightly choppy, even in the lee of Kurumba island, but we nevertheless enjoyed a good first snorkel. The reef fish were as attractive as ever, but the highlight was a nice White-tailed Stingray.

Evening slide show: Spinner, Bottlenose and Risso’s Dolphins.

Day 2, Monday 23 February

A perfect calm, sunny morning. Only slightly marred by the fact that our skipper had jumped ship in the night! It seems he had an ongoing dispute with the boat owner, who had anticipated this development, and already had a second skipper on board. So our departure was only slightly delayed and we were soon off, heading northwest across North Malé Atoll.

Under the bright morning light the reefs and islands looked gorgeous. And dolphins were soon sighted. First, a group of Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins, including a frisky mother and calf, which readily approached our boat. Then a bit later we found a tight group of Spinner Dolphins; although we had a good sighting, they appeared to be resting and were not at all interested in us, so we left them be.

It was now time for our mid-morning snorkel. The reef we chose had a small sandbank, which was crowded with seabirds: Lesser Noddies, Black-naped Terns, Saunder’s Terns and Lesser Crested Terns were all resting. On the reef itself there

were plenty of nice corals and a good variety of reef fishes. But the highlight was perhaps the large school of Reef Squid.

As we returned to Dive Master another group of Spinner Dolphins appeared, swimming along the very reef where we had just been snorkelling. But lunch was waiting so we did not loiter. Not long afterwards we found a second group of Indo- pacific Bottlenose Dolphins, working their way along another reef edge, and were able to spend some time with them. At bit later the wind picked up suddenly, making viewing conditions tricky. So we headed in and found some shelter behind a reef for our night’s anchorage. For a hardy few there was a chance for a choppy snorkel. Although the conditions were not ideal, it was an interesting reef, with plenty of reef fish, and a single Crown-of-thorns Starfish.

Evening slide show: Spotted, Fraser’s and Striped Dolphins. (Followed by Jackfish photography and pond-dipping off the stern platform after dinner).

Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphin Crown-of-thorns Starfish

Day 3, Tuesday 24 Feb The wind which had picked up yesterday afternoon had died down during the night. So the sea was beautifully calm as we set off soon after dawn on the passage across to Baa Atoll. Our first cetacean sighting came soon afterwards: some distant splashes led us to an active group of Bottlenose Dolphins, which readily bowrode. They were soon followed by an equally energetic group of Spinner Dolphins.

Things quietened down a bit then, until we approached Goidhoo island. Off the corner of the reef the current was boiling, and Flyingfish were in abundance. Overhead some 30+ Lesser Frigatebirds were soaring, and occasionally swooping down to catch an unsuspecting Flyingfish on the wing.

Female Lesser Frigatebird

No sooner had we left Goidhoo, than we spotted some large fins out in the channel. It was a group of about a dozen Pilot Whales (including a big male with an enormous dorsal fin, as well as a mother with young calf) accompanied by a boisterous group of Bottlenose Dolphins. The Pilots readily rode alongside us when we matched their speed and direction. After nearly an hour with this group, it was time for lunch and to move on. But it was not long before we found another group of Bottlenose Dolphins. This school was again very active, with many high leaps, but they were not especially interested in the boat, so we soon left them and carried on northwards outside Baa Atoll.

Pilot Whales

Here we had our second encounter with Pilot Whales, again accompanied by Bottlenose Dolphins. And again the Pilot Whales readily rode alongside, giving wonderful views and photo opportunities.

By now it was time to turn in towards our night’s anchorage. We entered southwest Baa Atoll, passing turquoise reefs, idyllic islands, and a small pod of Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins on the way. After anchoring off the uninhabited island of Muthaafushi we soon piled into the dhoni for our evening snorkel on the island’s reef. As usual, the fishlife was entrancing, with numerous Maldive Anemonefishes lining the reef edge, while a large Clown Triggerfish grabbed most people’s attention.

Evening talk: Reef fishes, and sea snakes.

Day 4, Wednesday 25 February

We started with a run ashore in the dingy to the uninhabited island of Muthaafushi. Several opted to walk around the island, which among other things produced a Greater Sandplover and a couple of Globe Skimmer dragonflies. With the tide being very low it was difficult to get out over the corals to the outer reef. For those that made it there were Hawksbill Turtles, and masses of schooling fishes, including Fusiliers, Chromis, Bluefin Jacks, Little Tunas, Humpback Red Snappers and Black Pyramid Butterflyfishes. For those that stayed on the inner reef, the shallow waters allowed excellent lateral views of fishes that were normally seen from above.

Back on board Dive Master, breakfast was waiting. Then we were off. In the channel, a large school of Spinner Dolphins was heading in, after their night’s feeding out in the ocean. We turned to travel with them, enjoying some fine views as they bowrode, and span alongside. Just after we left the Spinners a call from the dhoni alerted us to some Mantas further up the reef.

We headed straight there, diverted only briefly by a sighting of a probable beaked whale. Transferring to the dhoni we soon found no less than four Mantas, feeding along a current line just off the reef. After watching them from the boat for a while, we donned our snorkelling gear and jumped in just upstream. The water was a bit murky, and thick with Comb Jellies, but most people got at least one view of a magnificent Manta Ray sweeping by. Manta Ray

During the afternoon we continued northwards outside Baa and Raa Atolls. There were two sightings of Dwarf Sperm Whales (in both cases the animals disappearing before good views could be made by all) and two sightings of Risso’s Dolphins (clearly showing their distinctively tall dorsal fins and white-scratched bodies). There were some nice birds too, including Tropical Shearwater, Saunder’s Tern and Lesser Crested Tern.

All too soon it was time to turn in towards our night’s anchorage, off the small island of Fenfushi. Here we enjoyed perhaps our best snorkel to date, with clear water, nice corals, abundance of reef fishes, and a giant White-tailed Stingray.

Evening talk: Monsoon seasons, on the top deck, under the stars.

Day 5, Thursday 26 February

A fantastic day, although it certainly did not seem like that to start with. When we awoke the sky was grey, and the wind had picked up. On the positive side, the dhoni, which had set out early to search the reef, came back with news of Mantas. We soon piled on board, but by the time we got to the spot, the Mantas had gone. We had just decided to snorkel on that bit of reef when a call came from the dingy that there were Mantas at the far end of the reef. Off we set, but when we arrived the Mantas had again disappeared. We headed in the direction they had gone, and eventually decided to jump in anyway. The water was beautifully clear, there were plenty of reef fish, and masses of Comb Jellies and Venus’ Girdle Jellies. But again no Mantas, and the current, which was quite strong, was carrying us towards a choppy corner of the reef. All-in-all not our best morning excursion.

As we set out into the open ocean after breakfast, it was still overcast and windy. But gradually the wind abated, and viewing conditions improved. And then we spotted a

distant splash. Changing course we soon came up to a wonderful cetacean spectacle. A dense school of Fraser’s Dolphins were charging northwards, with Pilot Whales and Bottlenose Dolphins nearby. The Fraser’s readily bowrode, rushing in to the boat in droves. The Pilots too were happy to ride alongside as they also headed north. At one point there were Fraser’s bowriding on the front of a large Pilot Whale just alongside us. We spent over two hours with this extraordinary cavalcade of cetaceans, during which they travelled some 7 nautical miles north, before we eventually turned back to the south.

Fraser’s Dolphins

Not long afterwards we passed another smaller group of Pilot Whales, also heading north. Perhaps stragglers from the main group we had just left. Whatever the case, they too were happy to ride alongside us for a while, and one even spy-hopped.

By now the afternoon was wearing on, and it was time to think about our next anchorage. We headed in towards the northwestern side of Baa Atoll, and anchored not far from the delightful little island of Dhakandhoo. The light was now perfect for a late afternoon snorkel on the island’s reef. This was close enough to the shore for those who wanted to swim ashore for a walk on the beach. Meanwhile, out on the reef, the snorkelers were enjoying the steep drop-off, and the great diversity of reef fishes. These included Napoleon Wrasse, White-lined Lionfish and numerous Maldives Anemonefish, There was also a large Green Turtle.

Evening talk: Pilot Whales and other Blackfish.

Day 6, Friday 27 February

The sea was mirror-calm when we woke, and stayed flat all day. First thing there were Dragonflies roosting under the awnings; Spinner Dolphins coming into the atoll; and Sailfish feeding nearby. There were also numerous tiny, electric blue Sapphire Copepods drifting past our anchored boat. Then we were off for our morning snorkel, at Dhakandhoo Island, on the opposite side from yesterday. Once again it was a steep wall, with good corals along the top and several inviting caves down the slope. Along the slope were schools of orange Anthias, Red-toothed Triggerfishes, and Silver Sprats. The latter were being eyed up by patrolling packs of Bluefin Jacks as well as chunky Dogtooth Tunas.

Venus’ Girdle Maldives Anemonesfish White-lined Lionfish

A little later we headed out into the open ocean, and started our journey back southwards. With the sea so calm we were bound to find something fairly soon, and sure enough we soon spotted some distant splashing. This turned out to be a pair of Striped Dolphins. They were not interested in us at all, but did lead us to another group, which gave us much better views.

A slight hiatus took us up to lunch. But no sooner did the bell ring, than a Dwarf Sperm Whale appeared. It was logging peacefully, glinting brightly in the midday sun. As we watched, some distant splashing attracted our attention. This turned out to be a mixed school of Spotted and Spinner Dolphins. Next up a group of Risso’s Dolphins; these were all-grey females and calves, with no white-scratched males.

By now we were approaching the small Goidhoo Atoll, our planned anchorage for the night. As we headed in, through the only channel, there were numerous Black-naped Terns and Lesser Noddies feeding on the reefs nearby. It did not take long to anchor, then we were off in the dhoni for a snorkel on the nearby reef. The corals here were superb, with a wonderful diversity of branching species. And to top it all, a school of Spinner Dolphins swam by, on their way out to the ocean, giving a fortunate couple of snorkelers wonderful underwater views.

Evening talk: Atolls, on the top deck under the half-moon.

Day 7, Saturday 28 February

We left early this morning, with calm seas and a fiery dawn sky. We had only just cleared Goidhoo Atoll when we had our first cetacean sightings: active groups of Bottlenose Dolphins and Spinner Dolphins, both of which bowrode briefly but readily. It was a little while after breakfast that we had our next sighting: Bottlenose Dolphins again, but just a pair this time. They were somewhat wary, but immediately afterwards we came across the first of a whole string of Spinner Dolphin schools. Over the next hour or more we passed well over 300 dolphins, all heading more-or- less northeastwards, and many of which were quite happy to bowride.

Spinner Dolphin

By midday we were approaching North Malé Atoll. The sea was still flat calm, and under the clear blue sky the reefs sparkled. We were soon jumping in on the outer reef, and enjoying the coral and fishlife. Although calm at this season, this reef is subject to serious swells during the SW monsoon, and as a result was home to a selection of species that we had not seen before, including Surge Wrasse, Surge Damselfish and Reef Picasso Triggerfish. There were bigger creatures too, with different people spotting Green Turtle, Blacktip Reef Shark, Stingrays and two Mantas.

Back on board Dive Master, lunch was ready as we motored across the atoll. There were plenty of Black-naped Terns and Lesser Noddies, plus a distant sighting of Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins.

Day 8, Sunday 1 March

Departure for the airport after breakfast.

CETACEANS

During this trip we enjoyed a very respectable total of 40 sightings (which made 46 cetacean records because some schools contained more than one species), of 9 different species:

Species

Scientific Name No.

Sightings Est. no.

Individuals

Spinner Dolphins Stenella longirostris 16 881 Spotted Dolphins Stenella attenuata 1 25 Striped Dolphins Stenella coeruleoalba 2 17 Risso’s Dolphins Grampus griseus 3 27 Bottlenose Dolphins Tursiops truncatus 6 162 Indo-pacific Bottlenose Tursiops aduncus 4 31 Bottlenose (unidentified) Tursiops sp. 3 81 Fraser’s Dolphins Lagenodelphis hosei 1 180 Pilot Whales Globicephala macrorhynchus 4 74 Dwarf Sperm Whales Kogia sima 3 7 Unidentified Beaked Whale Ziphiidae 1 1 Unidentified cetacean   2 11     46 1497

Many of these sightings were of extended duration, and allowed not only superb viewings but also wonderful photo opportunities. Among the highlights:

• Fraser’s Dolphins – a world-class encounter • Pilot Whales – stately and magnificent • Spinner Dolphins – always elegant and acrobatic

BIRDS

We recorded fourteen species of birds, which is a reasonable showing for the Maldives in February. The good numbers of tropical terns and noddies were particularly enjoyable. And our sightings of Lesser Frigatebird (an uncommon visitor to the northern Maldives which roosts on only one island in Baa Atoll) and Tropical Shearwater (a regional endemic, which breeds in Maldives) were especially notable.

1 Lesser Frigatebird Fregata aeriel 2 Tropical Shearwater Puffinus bailloni 3 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucas 4 Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii 5 Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis 6 Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii 7 Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana 8 Saunder’s Tern Sterna saundersi

9 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 10 Brown Noddy Anous stolidus 11 Lesser Noddy Anous tenuirostris 12 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 13 Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea 14 House Crow Corvus splendens maldevicus

Wolfgang, Ab, Mattia, Christian, Micky, Chas, Dirk, Henny, Britt-Inger Christine, Albert, Marlene, Cor, Elly. Gunnell, Henny, Stu