www.wineafi cionado.comJULY 2008

WINE AFICIONADO

Classics, New & Old

Yalumba, 150 years old

From California to Queenstown

CONTENT

Classics, New & Old 2

New Classics 4

Old Classics 6

Yalumba, 150 years old 8

From California to Queenstown 11

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“Th e population that moved from the countryside to the cities

created a huge new market. ”

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Classics, New & OldAs this century rushes to its close, the latter part of it will surely be remembered as Th e Golden Age of Wine. At no other time in history has there been so much quality wine available or so many diverse styles, from so many countries. And the future looks even more exciting.

For generations, the wines of France dominated world markets but in the last twenty fi ve years, the wines of other countries, particularly those of the new world, have risen to seriously challenge that ascendancy. One of the reasons why French wine became so dominant was technology and it is technology that has driven the world wide wine revolution in the past 25 years.

Technology, in the case of France, came in the form of the Industrial Revolution. Manufactured bottles, corks, mechanization and the work of scientists like Louis Pasteur combined to elevate wine making from the confi nes of a cottage industry to a higher more sophisticated standard.

Th e Industrial Revolution also had the eff ect of increasing the demand for wine at several levels. Th e populations that had been transplanted from the countryside to the cities, to work the factories and provide services, created a huge new market for wine. European expansion throughout the world created bigger markets for all sorts of goods, including wine. As a consequence of all this, the manufacturing and merchant middle class grew and prospered and they in turn demanded, amongst other things better wine; wines that in the past had been the preserve of the aristocracy. By the time of the famous classifi cation of Bordeaux’s wines in 1855 the French wine industry was well established and the unchallenged leader.

Th e techniques that had evolved during this golden period of the 19th

century banished the medieval methods of the cottage industry, to establish the classic wine styles that became the benchmark for generations. In every fl edgling wine making country, for more than hundred years, the methods and techniques perfected by the French were copied and imitated but innovation marked time.

Th e fi rst stirring of a new order started to emerge in the 1960’s, ironically led by technology once again and fuelled by a new found interest in wine, by a better educated, more affl uent market. It was a case of history repeating itself, of the market pushing the producers. In Europe, California and Australia, the accepted methods of winemaking were challenged. Science and technology combined to develop new methods and techniques and almost overnight a fl ood of superb new wines poured out of countries that up until then had been content to produce imitation French plonk.

Since the 1970’s the wines, not only of the new world but of old wine making countries like Italy and Spain( including France) have embraced the new technology and now produce a wonderful array of quality, distinctive wines. Th e wines of Australia, California and New Zealand no longer have to pass themselves off as imitation Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne to gain acceptance. Napa, Barossa, Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay are now equally recognised as quality wine regions and have become part of the international wine language.

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New Classics

WESTERN AUSTRALIAWestern Australia has a long but chequered wine making history and did not come into prominence until 25 years or so ago. Th e fi rst vines were planted as early as 1829 with the arrival of European settlers. Th e Swan Valley was the centre of winemaking throughout the nineteenth century and up until the late 1960’s. It was not until the development of the Mount Baker, Frankland and the Margaret River regions, that the wines of Western Australia gained recognition. Today the whole region, particularly the Margaret River is considered to be producing some of the most exciting wines of Australia.

CAPE MENTELLEWhen in 1983 Cape Mentelle’s 1982 Cabernet Sauvignon won Australia’s most coveted wine award Th e Jimmy Watson Trophy, the majority of Australian wine drinkers who had never heard of the company or Margaret River thought it was just a fl ash in the pan. Th ey changed their

opinions when the following year Cape Mentelle won again and overnight it became a sensation, the most sought after and celebrated winery in the country. Th e Cape Mentelle vineyards were established by David Hohnen in 1976. Th e vineyard lies between the town of Margaret River and the Cape on the Indian Ocean from which the winery takes its name. Th e winery is justly famous for its show-stopping, richly fl avoured Cabernet based wines that have won praise everywhere but it also produces a wonderful, fruit driven Zinfandel and a magnifi cent, concentrated Shiraz. Cape Mentelle’s reds continue to rate amongst Australia’s best and they have undoubtedly helped to put the Margaret River region on the wine making map.

VASSE FELIX Vasse Felix was the fi rst commercial vineyard planted in 1967 and winery to be established in the Margaret River, which lies about 320km south of Perth, on the Indian Ocean

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“Produce distinctive wines in which the vineyard’s site and grape fl avours are fully expressed.”

coast. Th e vineyard, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Shiraz, Chardonnay, Riesling and Semillon provides the bulk of the grapes, with some being sourced from selected growers. Vasse Felix production is not large but the quality is very high. Its Cabernet Sauvignon when it was fi rst released put the Margaret River district on the wine map. Concentrated, fruit accented and long lived, the wines are in very high demand internationally so that availability is limited.

CALIFORNIATh ere are more than 800 wineries in the state of California and it produces nearly 90 per cent of the total wine of the USA. Rather obviously it is known as the Wine State. Wine has been made in the State since Spanish days but as in Australia and New Zealand, it was not until thirty years ago that wine production became seriously established. California’ s winemakers can take credit however for being at the forefront of the modern wine revolution

and can fairly claim to have pioneered many of the techniques now practised in practically every winery in the world. It also invented varietal naming of wine, that is calling wines by the name of the grape variety, rather than by its place of origin.

VOSS VINEYARDVoss Vineyard has an interesting connection with Australia but it is not very obvious. Th e name ‘Voss’ was inspired by the name of the character in the book, of the same name, by Patrick White. Th at’s where the connection ends because the wines are pure California. Voss Vineyard specialises in producing a limited selection of super premium varietal wines from specially selected grapes. Winemaker Alan Hoey’s philosophy is “to produce distinctive wines in which the vineyard’s site and grape fl avours are fully expressed.” A sip of his Zinfandel or Merlot is certainly very evocative and its easy to see why his wines have made such an impact in such a short time.

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Old ClassicsFRANCE

Loire Valley - Marc BredifTh e Loire Valley is one of the prettiest vine regions in the world “Th e Garden of France.” Its banks are massed with vineyards and decorated with Story Book Chateaux at every bend. It’s not surprising that the Loire was once the favoured playground of French nobility drawn there by its easy access to Paris and its bounty of wines. Th e wines of this region, Sancerre, Vouvray, Saumur and Muscadet have been famous since antiquity, indeed vines were fl ourishing there before Roman times. What distinguishes the Loire from other regions of France is the diversity of wines that it produces. Th ese are directly related to grape varieties rather than their location. In the Sancerre zone the dominant variety is Sauvignon Blanc whereas in Vouvray it is the Chenin Blanc.

According to Jancis Robinson “Th e Chenin Blanc is one of the wine world’s most undervalued treasures.” Although it is widely grown, the best examples of Chenin Blanc wines can be found in the Touraine wine region in the heart of Loire, its best whites are those of Vouvray. One of the most highly respected wine makers of the Vouvray district is Marc Bredif located at Rochecorban, just a short drive out from Vouvray.

Th e Marc Bredif family can trace its origins to the 1550’s. Th ey own vineyards in the best part of the Vouvray district and one of oldest and largest caves that the region is famous for. Th ese caves

were carved out of the chalky rock for wine storage and are a very popular tourist attraction. In the Marc Bredif caves, carved under 40 metres of rock, the wines from the 1874 vintage are still very drinkable. Th e company uses one of these caves as a tasting venue for their wines, which are treasured for their distinctive characteristics.

RHONE

Guigal - AmpuisTh e Rhone Valley is perhaps the oldest wine making region in France. Its most important grape varieties were probably introduced by Persian traders, long before the Romans, who nonetheless were very infl uential. In spite of its ancient history and the fact that the region in modern times produced some of the best wines in the world, the Rhone was largely ignored. Th at is until Guigal came along and almost overnight Rhone wines were rediscovered to become the hottest wines in France. Guigal are unquestionably the region’s superstars but by French standards Guigal are newcomers. Th e company was founded in 1946 by Etienne Guigal in Ampuis in the Cote Rotie where the family owned vineyards. Etienne’s vast experience provided the foundation upon which the company was built. Latterly, his son Marcel, has propelled the company to the forefront. He reassessed the traditional methods which had been the standard practice in the region, for as long as anyone could remember and set about introducing new technology, temperature control fermentation and the judicious use of new oak.

“Th e Chenin Blanc is one of the wine world’s most

undervalued treasures.”

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“Th e results took the world by storm ”

Th e results took the world by storm. Robert Parker, doyen of wine critics and notoriously hard to please wrote after a major tasting of Guigal’s wines “I have never tasted through a better lineup of wines. I don’t believe that there is another winemaker or wine producing estate in the world that has ever put together such an array as monumental as these.”

ITALY

Casa Vinocola PrunottoPrunotto, established by Alfredo Prunotto in 1904 in the commune of San Cassiano, a short but stunningly beautiful drive from Alba, is a wonderful example of what is best about Piedmont wines. Th e company is very proud of its traditions, and enjoys a solid international reputation but it has also been one of the leading innovators of the region. It pioneered modern technology in the region and was the fi rst to introduce single vineyard wines as early as 1961. Its reputation however is based on the consistency of its Barolo and Barbaresco wines derived from the Nebbiolo variety. Produced with consummate craftsmanship these wines are very impressive and are beautifully expressive of their origins.

GajaAngelo Gaja has done more in twenty years to attract world attention to the wines of Piedmont than any another producer. In the tradition steeped Piedmont, Angelo Gaja caused quite a stir when he took over the family fi rm established in 1859 from his father in 1961. He believed that Piedmont, considered Italy’s best red wine producer, was resting on its laurels. Th e quality of the grapes and the wine making methods in Piedmont were not keeping up with what was happening world wide. He stopped buying from growers, reduced the cropping levels in his own vineyards, introduced temperature control and importantly stopped using the massive oak barrels

traditionally used in the region. He opted instead to use the smaller 225 litre French barrique to give the wines a sweet vanilla richness and reduce hard oak tannins. Controversially, Gaja also introduced varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay that went on to win accolades from the most prestigious wine authorities on earth. Not only did these results catapult Angelo Gaja into super star status but it markedly raised the level of awareness for all his other wines and those of Piedmont in general. Today Gaja’s exceptional range of Alba reds with their rich complex fl avours are the standard by which all the other wines of the region are judged. His single vineyard wines, another innovation, are eagerly sought and fetch better prices than Bordeaux’s First Growths, with the exception of Chateaux Petrus.

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Yalumba, 150 years old

Th e Yalumba story is more than the story of a family of winemakers. It is the story of wine in Australia, its struggles, tribulations and triumphs. Th e story begins in 1812, the year of Napoleon Bonaparte’s retreat from Moscow, the beginning of the end of an era, and the beginning of the Yalumba story because it was in that fateful year that Samuel Smith was born at Wareham, Dorset.

In 1847, at the age of 35 Samuel Smith, by then a successful brewer made the momentous decision to leave the security of England and migrate to Australia. He was clearly no ordinary man as events were to prove. He arrived with his wife and fi ve children to Adelaide and settled in Klemzig on the banks of the Torrens River. After a short time there the family moved on to the township of Angaston, then being developed by George Fife Angas for whom Samuel worked. Samuel realised that the region had great potential for viticulture and purchased a 12 hectare block.

In 1849, working at night, during the day he worked for Fife Samuel, started planting the vineyard that he called “Yalumba” meaning “the land around” in aboriginal. It was the start of a dynasty of winemakers that 150 years later is still fl ourishing.

Yalumba is a place that its founder would feel very much at home in. But it is not England, the setting is Yalumba’s headquarters, a working winery in Angaston, in the heart of the Barossa Valley of South Australia and home to Australia’s oldest family winery, now in its 150th

year.

“Yalumba, Th e Land Around in aboriginal,

it was the start of a dynasty of winemakers.”

Yalumba’s fi rst wine was made in 1852 but Samuel, needing capital to develop his holdings, once again took a chance and together with his 15 year old son Sidney joined the rush to the Victorian gold fi elds. After sinking 15 shafts, the pair fi nally struck gold and returned to Angaston with 300 pounds, not a fortune but enough to purchase a further 32 hectares, two horses, harnesses and a plough. From that time on Samuel devoted himself entirely to winemaking and further developing the vineyards and by 1862, 3.6 hectares had been planted to Shiraz. Within a short time, the winery had established a reputation for quality and it was rewarded by winning a bronze medal at the 1886 Intercolonial Exhibition and a silver at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1878. Markets were also established throughout Australia and in England. Samuel Smith died over 100 years ago in 1889. He was survived by his wife, four daughters and son Sidney. Samuel’s Estate was sworn for probate at 11,178 pounds but his legacy was much greater.

Sidney who had ventured with his father into the Victorian gold fi elds had taken over management of Yalumba in 1888 and continued to expand the

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“Yalumba entered a new and exciting phase of its development.”

business, building the two storey, blue marble clock tower which is such an imposing feature of the estate. By 1900 there were 48 hectares under vine and by 1903 the company was producing 810,000 litres of wine establishing Yalumba as one of the principle producers of Australia.

Th e years between the wars was not an easy time to take over the business but the company battled on through the depression and kept growing, showing considerable foresight and enterprise even during uncertain times. Sidney Hill Smith introduced Riesling into Eden Valley, a bold move at a time when table wines were not popular in Australia. Yalumba also pioneered early bottling of Riesling 20 years before it became common practice. Yalumba entered a new and exciting phase of its development, unique and far reaching in its scope not just for the company but for the industry. It was one the fi rst wineries, in the 1950s to appreciate the signifi cance of the emerging technology and indeed was the fi rst to order new German stainless steel pressure fermenters.

Th ey also understood that to improve quality they had to grow the right grape varieties on the most suitable sites and created a huge vine nursery to assess varieties. It was a courageous and innovative move at a time when most companies were concentrating on maximising yields and reducing costs. Th e nursery has become the cornerstone of Yalumba’s success. Signifi cantly, Yalumba were the fi rst winery to reappraise the suitability of the growing sites in the Barossa Valley and the surrounding ranges. In 1961 they established, in the East Barossa ranges, a cool climate district, Pewsey Vale Vineyard with the express purpose of producing top quality varietal wines.

Today, Yalumba’s wines are sold in virtually every corner of the world. It is not only one of the most important and successful wineries of Australia but one of the leading wineries of the New World. Th e present Managing Director, Robert Hill Smith, a direct descendant, can be truly proud of the achievements of a talented family that have been at the heart of the Australian wine industry for 150 years and continue to set pace.

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Late in 1998, Kemblefi eld Estate Winery launched a completely redesigned set of labels for both its Kemblefi eld and Terrace View range of wines.

From California to Queenstown

Th e Kemblefi eld labels are bold and unique, unlike anything else in the local or international line-up. Inspired by the New Zealand origins of the wines they will be particularly distinctive in international markets where up to 75% of Kemblefi eld wines are sold. Th e Terrace View labels depict the beautiful country side surrounding the winery and vineyard. Th e new presentation could not have been better timed because they signal a defi nite change in Kemblefi eld’s wines, not just in livery but in the quality of the wines.

“Since 1996 we have been using our own estate grown grapes and this has impacted on the quality of the company’s wines,” says Joanna

Kemble, “it was always our intention to produce estate grown wines.” Th e microclimate and free draining soils above the Ngaruroro River are very well suited to premium wine production. We have greater control, from the vineyard right through every stage of production and our recent results are a good indication that we are on the right track.” Th e host of medals and awards in the last six months include, Gold at the Royal Easter Show, Silver at Th e Air New Zealand Wine Awards, a 5 Star Rating in a cuisine tasting for the 1997 Chardonnay plus it was rated in the Top 10. Th e wine has also been awarded 90 points, meaning an outstanding wine of superior character

and style, by the America’s leading wine magazine Th e Wine Spectator. Th e same magazine also awarded Th e 1998 Gewurztraminer and the 1997 Merlot, 88 and 87 marks respectively.

Joanna Kemble, “We are confi dent that this vineyard will consistently produce wines of international class.” A further forty hectares is now being developed and interestingly a trial block of fi ve acres has been planted to Zinfandel, California’s most widely planted red variety. “I’m looking forward to see how the variety does in New Zealand. In California it produces strong berry fl avoured reds with a distinctive briar infl uence. We are due to pick the fi rst crop in 2000, which will be a signifi cant moment.”

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KARL MARTIN Karl Martin has recently moved from Angaston to Auckland to fulfi l the role of Administration Manager, Negociants New Zealand. Karl was born in Kangaroo Island but when he was still a babe the family moved to Tanunda in the heart of Barossa Valley, the wine capital of Australia. Educated in Tanunda and at Flinders University, Adelaide, Karl’s interest in wine took him to Yalumba where he has been the Corporate Accountant for the last four years. An avid Aussie Rules supporter, a Magpies fan, Karl is nevertheless looking forward to experiencing his fi rst live All Black - Wallabies encounters.

KATE PRITCHARD - AREA MANAGER, AUCKLAND

Kate is passionate about wine, her favourite pass-time is Wine Options. Th is passion for wine was kindled whilst in London, completing a Cordon Bleu course. Kate went on to complete the demanding British Wine & Spirit Education Trust Board examinations and followed this up by doing a vintage in Bordeaux, at Chateaux Senejac in the commune of Pian in the Haut Medoc. Since returning to New Zealand in 1994 Kate has worked in the wine industry and is a welcome addition to the Negociants team.

JULIA SPARK - AREA MANAGER, AUCKLAND/HAMILTON

Welcome to Julia Spark who joins the Negociant team. Julia hails from North Canterbury but got the travel urge and set off to Europe and the UK, some six years ago for her O.E. Whilst there she worked for Lord and Lady Moyne, of the famous Guinness Family, at Andover in Hampshire. With a well developed taste for fi ne wine and food, it is not surprising that Julia was drawn to the fi ne wine trade, where she has worked since her return to New Zealand three years ago.

JENNY HOOD - CUSTOMER SERVICES -SOUTH ISLAND

Jenny has had over 14 years experience in the hospitality industry, fulfi lling a similar role just prior to joining Negociants. She spent two years in the UK as restaurant manager at Th e Lands End a very popular and highly regarded establishment in Twyford, near Reading. A rugby enthusiast , she has drawn the short straw, to induct Karl into the esoteric intricacies of Rugby Union.

CELIA ANDERSON- CREDIT CONTROLLER

Celia, her husband and 13 year old son arrived in New Zealand from Scotland in 1992, settling in Howick. After six years in New Zealand they have assimilated well into life in this country and are great followers of the national religion, rugby.

JO DANGEN- RECEPTIONIST/ SECRETARY Th at voice you here over the phone when you call Negociants belongs to Jo Dangen who joined us recently. Jo describes herself as a ‘Water Baby’ and loves being at the beach enjoying all sorts of water activities with friends and family. She also has a serious interest in wine which she hopes to develop further with Negociants.

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