Woodsmith 038 - Mar-Apr 1985 - Bunk Beds

7/27/2019 Woodsmith 038 - Mar-Apr 1985 - Bunk Beds

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NO. 38 NOTESFROMTHESHOP $2.50

IDEOCABINETTDOLLCRADLEBUlIK BEDSPREP...IRSTN A SERIESN FINISHING


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Mar/Apr, 985EdilorDonaldB. Pe.chke

OesignOicto.Td KrallckAssislanl ditofsSt.ve Krohm.rDouglas L. Hlcks

Ad DircclorKay luldorTechnicallluslralorsDavldKrylhglrlke HnrySubscriptionanagerSandyJ. Baum

SubscdprionssisranrsChrlatolMhelVlcky FobhonJackleStroudShtlsy FellmanDl.n. Siarr

CobputerOporalionsXsn MlnerCirculation anagerJofi Flrls

AdminislrativeAssistanlCheryl SootiBuildingMainlonancotuchle Xrau3e

WOOoSMITH SSN0164-4114)s publishedbihonlhly January,March,May, July, Sep-lember,Novembgr) y Woodsmilh ublishingCo.,2200 randAvs., ssMoines,owa 0312.WOODSMITHs a regisleredrademark l theWoodsmilh ublishi ng o.lcopyrlghl1985by Woodsmithublishingo.Sub3crlpllom:Oneyoal (0 ssues) 10,Twoy6a (12 ssu6s) l8. Single opypice,$2.50(Canada ndForeignradd2pff year.)ChangOl Addr*s: Ploase o suro o ncludebothyourold and new address.Sscond cla$ posLgo pald at Oes l\,loinss,Posim.sier:Sendchange l address otice,Fom 3579, o Woodsmilh ublishingo.,2200GrandAve.,D6sMoines,owa50312.

BACK SSUESAll back ssuesol WoodsD[t are still availableSend or a booklel scribinghe cnlents ndp cesol all back ssues.

SAIIPLECOPIESItyouhav dndwhowouldiksloseea copyoIWood3mllh,jusls6ndhename ndaddrcss,afd we'll enda sampleatno cosr)-

Sawdust-{Born HIs IssuD-There'sa goodside andbad side o everything, ncludings'orkinson an issue of Woodi)rtll. As we weres'orkins on the desisns or the projects nthis ssue,anumbe.oflittle problemskeptpoppmgup.Over and over again, I found myselfbeatinsmyhead asai.st thewau tryingtocome up with solutions (techniques) osolve some of these problems. WetL,somuch or the soodside.The bad side s that once solutio.sarefound, we have a difficult iime aetlins al lthis inJomation n the issue. n th past,we solved his problemby shonins proj'cts hat involvedasimilar iechnique,andFesented a full article on that lechnique.For the last coupleofissueswe've bentrying somethins different. Most of thetechniqus we've usd are smaller -really rnor ike tips. And as much as wecan,we've ded to include hese ips righiin the al1icle or achproject.I guesswhat I'm gettingat here s tbat iimay be worth rading hroush these a}.ti-cleseren if you'renot all that interested nactually building the project. There areseveral ood ips uckeda"'ay n this ssue.OkaJ, 'll make l easier Here'sa list of

1. Haw d.o aL to hLukea thrcLgl luedsed no1'tiseard tenan laok pict repetect? Chezt a )nr]le. I used a filler pluson he endsofthe motise and enonjointson he bu.k bd.This is a$hole lot easierthan trying to cut a pefect nortise, andthn fitting it with a perfect tenon. SeeFisur 25 on page 15.2. Okaunot thot theJi lLer L sis; , themoflise, hon d.a lou smoath it Jl1tsh uiithlr s?ldircefOn way is to sand ti l yourblue in th face. (The ffller plug is endgrain, which akes oreverto sanddown.)Anoiher way is t o make a router jig thatcleansor the end of ih fillr plus in notime flat. SeeFisure 26 on page 15.J. Hotl) do !o( cut o hole i]1plltroodbtthaut chi,ppiryand spliri"nng the edseto pices?Use a router insteadofa sabrcsaw. had to cut an access ole(for wircsand cables) n ihe plywood back of theTV,^r'CRStand.The bstway io make hisli"e of cut is with a router - I used herouier lable. SeeFisure 16 on pag ll ..1.Hou .lo uau c\t a uthole bunch of,onises uithoxt act lllq harnq b cltt ouhaLeblnch aJ tnottises?Use a notchedspacer strip. Thai's how we sohed theproblemofmounting 10slais beiween hecross ails of the hadboardon rhe bunkbeds.See Figure 21 on page14.5. Hotr do Vor llet dadoes o li e uppelfec t! (acnss fron eachother) o ttro

tie.es? Cut the dadoesbeforecutting thetwo pieces.That is, cut the dadoes n adouble-wide iecenrst, uren rip lhe piecedoM to fom the two pieceswith the da-doesperfectlvaligled. Wedid his to nakethe uprishis for the bunk bed adder SeeFi$re 3 on page r9.!'tNrsHINc. his issuebeginsa seriesofarticles on finishing. This is a subject Ihave miried feelings about. Most of thetime Ijust Nant to get it over with gelsome inish on the project and b do.ewiih ii.But that has ed o disappointmentmoreihan once,and I'!e foundmvselfre-frnish-ingaproject to gal the look I wanted(andthe project deselved).IfI've leamedone hingabout finjshing,it's that I can't put of f thinking about ituntil t he end ofthe project.Finishins hasto stadwhen you'rebuyingthe wood,andcontinues ith eachstep n construction.That's ihe short version of th afticlethar begins on page 20 prcparjng thesuface. We {ill be follos i.g up vith art;cles nthe coming ssueson ach tepoftheffnishingprocess:illing, seaiing, taining,plus full articls on the chamctefisticsofvanish, shellac, polyurelhane, and Lacquer finishesand how o apply hm. Slax

lHE SCHEDULE. u ng the past fewmonthsse've addedquite a few nes subscribers. With each new subscribe r, tdoesn't ake ongbeforese heartso fanil'iar questions: Wltere'smy issue?W}ly s tThoseNho havbeenNith us or awhileknow hat theissuealwaysgets here, butii is lat.Tbis problem staried r\t'o yeals agowhen we s'ere goi.sthrough a bis expan'sionpedod.We slippedbehind cheduleto the poini ihar the issueswer goingoulalmost six weeks past the normal rnajldate. We'!e been ri'ing to ca tch up elerAfter two yearsof working svendaysaNek, 'e're stillbehind.W}at we'!e foundoursehesdoingispuLting more effod into

ih quality ofeach issue.As a resuli, thequalitl has mprovedbut the schedule asnot. Tosolvethispl oblen, Ne'veoutlinedanew schedule hat will (hopetully) lloN usto catch up one week with each ssue.But wewillnot sacrilicequality or tirne.Youexpectgood ssues,on tine. We sillcontinLreo produce he besLwe can, andtrytogradually catchup so e're backo. anore nomal schedule.xExr Iss[E. Tbe Maydun issue ofWoods,D//rNill be maileddud.gthe weekofJune 17, 1985.WOODSNflTH


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TipS&' Tiqqhniqt'esPTANINOTHIN 5IOCK

I enjoyed building the toy truck ( /oods,ril, No. 35) or ny son. t proved o bean interestins xercise n resafing andhandplanins thin stock. I found t helpfulto build a benchhook o do tbe planing.I sbfted with an 8"x 18" pieceof %"pllvood to use as a base.Then I drilled aro{ of holes l" from one end to accept#8 x %' flathead"'ood scres's. Finally Icur a %" rabbt on th oppositeside andend lo ait ach a 2" lide by 8" long cleat.The benchhook sts over he edseofabncho. fits into a vise. The screws anbebackedout as trle as necessaryto og hethin stock. The real adlantase in thisbenchhook s that it can hold extrmelythin stock or planing without feAr of theplanenln being njcked by the dogs.

Sincclhescre$heails end o dig nk, theenAgrainofthe stock,I ahlals allo$ extfalen8th aDdcut off the Naste.

G.r . C(, tpan|st :h iSerctna Patk, MaNldj l

STOP HAT sAWSincemdialarm sawscrLlon the top of th.Nood, he bladehasalendcncJ o glab iheirood and walk right through a cut- Thiscausesa problen if you rvant to make astopped ut(suclr s a blind dado). 's h:rdlo stop the salv at t he coreci point.I madeafi\ture that frts orerthe afmofa mdjal arm saw and stops he sa$ at aprcdtcrminedpoint. It's madeout oftwopieces fl/,l scrap hat are2 Nideand cutto length to acconmodate he indi! ual

I cul a seciion out of the top piec omalch the shape of the arm. Then Iattached oam s'eatherstlip tape {'/r") tothe cutout to keep hc stop flom sli ppingand to pmtecl the alm.The fixtue is hld together \dth t$olons cardage bolts, washrs, and wingnuts. A couplespinsofrhe $ing nuts andil's off or mo!'ed nto position.WooDSMTTH

Touse he ixturc, mark he imit ofthecut ononeendofthe $orkpiece.Wiihoutturningon the sa$!plac he sorkpieceon the auxiliary fence and clamp Lheslopblock a i th is poin l . The workpiece sturned e.d-for-end and fit into the spacebets'een }e auxiliary f ence and the stopbLock.The block atloss me to hold thervo.kpiec ighi and keep i from creepingtoward the blade. Then the remainingpieces hat ar to be the same ength arebrought n against he block and cul-

Al FenaLd.8rcMft|. Nontt C.itolintSANDINGON IHE ROU'ER ABLE

Need a steadr -mount for a dmm sanderand don't have a drill press?That was mJproblem and here's how my l4roods,iillrrouter table proved ts s'orth again.I mounteda Porlaligr witb my eleclricdrill and sanding drum under t)re table.There are two holes in lhe base of rhePoftaLigr that accept 7i \ 1% flatheadmachine cre$s and wing nuts. I used hc

b3seofthe Potalign asa lenplale to makthe soNholes in the to! of the routertable anil then d lLed and countersunkholes or ih scrcws.The depth collal on the s ide r.odhas obe femoled andplacedbe1o. he yoke tohold he ddLlup under he table. Thecollallocatior canbe pedodicallyadjusted f thedrun lvearsdown n one spot.To use it, chuck the conect sandingdrum in the ddll, plus it in, andpush heconstant-on uLton. I find it's a comfoltable heisht for drum sandirs.

tight against he fenceand brnrg rhe armforward until it has reached he mark.Lock lhe saw al lhis point, place he fix-ture over the arm in front ofiha sa\ andtighteD L dolvn. Releasehe saw ock andii'srcady iouse. Asit's pulled oa'ard, t}efixiure witl prevenr the saw from soinsbeyond he indicatedpoint.The i\ture canalsobeplacd hind hesa\s In tbispositionand wilh adrill chuckattached o the saw arbor, I use it as adepth stop for horizo.tal boring.

Jae Coughli)tLeagueCit!,'IbMsMITIR STOPAIOCK

Oneproblem 've had when cutting mit rjoinls for a frane is settins the opposingsidepiceso bc the e\acl same ength. Ifthey're roLthe same, hre will be agap noneormore ofthejoints . Thetrick 's to useI slart by fasteninganauxiliaryfncetothe miLefgaugeand cul a miter on oneend

BabLk aLenoir, N* t h Canli,t1

ofall the tuanepieces.Then I makea stopblockwith lhe samemiter anglcut on oneerd. (I f o.e of the scmp pieces rom lheinilial cuts is longenough, use t as thstop block.) I also cul a ubbel on themitered end to act as a sawdust elief.Ne\t, I mark he final engthof hepica

NOTE:PonAucNHflDupHxiJ[3f;?:']f"^- -'1!q!!c

SEND N YOUi IDTASllyo! d ike oshareawoodwoi( inglipvrilholherteadatsol Woodsnith,send your idea lo:Woodsnfth,bs & Techniques, 200G6ndAve.,DesMoines,owa50312.Wepaya minimum I$10lorlips. nd$15ormore or specialechniquesthala.e aeepledlor plblicalion).Plgassglve a complele (-planalion l your dea. l a skl ch sneedd,sondl aongiwolLdrawnew ne.


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Doll CradleGOODNIGHIMRS.CABBAGEATCH, HEREVEROUARE

Usually be Christmasseason nds n De-cember. But this year, it seems o be inserins on a while longer. The most recentpost-Christ mas project has been a dollcradle for all t he Cabbage Patch Kids"adopted"this yearI desisned the doll cradle to b a fairlysimple piece, using basic oinery tech-niqus, and requirins only a few hours tocomplete. I also usedponderosapine tokeep he cradle ight enough hat ven atwo-year-old can cany it dound the house.The cradie consistsof five pieces: wosides and a bottom that are joi.ed to theheadboard and footboard. The first step inbuilding he cradle s to make a ternplatefor rhe headboard and footboard.

IXE ITMPIAIETomake he template, startedby cuttinga pieceof %"-thickMasonite16" by 18v,",seFis. 1Then laid out theprofileof theheadboedfootboard.CENaERLINE,he key to laying out theprofile s theverticalcenterline, eeFie. 1.Once his line is draM, the rest of theprofiie s centeredaround t.DrAcoNALs. irst, the sides of the tem-plate are formed by drawing two 15" diag-onals, eeFis. 1Todo his, connectapointon the bottom edge,37s" rom the centerline to a point on the side olthe template,15'l'from the bottom edse,seer.is. 1.rop ARc. After the sides are drawn, Inarked tbe top arc. To do this, first locatecenterpoint A on the centerline, 3%" tomthe botlom edge.Then dmw a r0%" mdiusslc, see Fig. 2.ShopNote: used he sirnplebeamcom-pass shom in Detail A to dlaw tbis arc.This compass s just a lhin strip of woodwith a notchat oneendto hold apencil,anda v,6"hole at the pivot point for a brad.BorfmM ARc.The botLomec is dmwnthe sameway: Locatecenterpoint B on hecenterline r8" from the bottom edge anddraw an r8"-f3diusarc, see ic. 2.RADrrrs oRNERs,Once hese two arcsare drawn, locate the center points for thefou mdius come.s at the top oftbe tem-plate. These radii fo.m the top of thehandleand the shoulders,see ig. 3.Afte! the center points are located, use acompass o dmw the radius comers on thetemplate.Then to conplete Lheshoulder,dlaw a tangent line connecting the two

Next, follow he sameprocedule or thfour radii near the bottom ofthe templateto fom th ends on the rocker - locate thecenter points and draw the radii.

ILIIDLE. At this point the template isalmost complete.All that remains s thhandle.To ay out the handle, irst find thecenterlin by dmwins a 9%" radius arcfromcenterpointA, seeFis.4. Thendrawthe%"-dia.end holeson tbis arc, 1%" romthe centerline.Finally onnect he top andbottom edgeson the lwo end holes witharcs, usingpivot pojnt A.scRDwfiol,Es. h template s compleieat this point, except or six holes hat arcusd ater to locate the screw holes forattaching he }eadboad and footboud tothe cmdle sides.To locate hese hols ontle template, draw a lineparallel o bothsides of the template, %" from the edse,see ig. 4. Then mark th positionoftheholes along this line, 4y2" 8%" a lt)ya"

from the bottomedge.After thesepointsarc locared,drill '/s"pilot holesin he templatesothe ocation frheholescanbe ransfened onio the head-board and footboard.cuT'rNc.The laststepbeforecutting outthe profite is to bore the Hdius comers andhandle holes with a drill bit or lrole sa$lAlthough his step soptio.al- dependinson whetheryou hale the risht sizedbits-ii's an excelleni way lo produce perfectradius comers, seeDetail B.Once the oners are drilled out, useither a band saw or sabresaw to cut outthe remainjng profile. (To cut out thehandle. used a sabresa$ andha.d fildthe edses rnooth.) hen sand he edsesofthe templatesmoothwith a drum sander.

wuH Hotrs^wor Dn|u[ rFAvatasrE

sA8rE wTocur our rrcfllE

WOODSMTTH


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The TbmplateIOI OIAGONAL5PRODUC

I D . o r o " r t , t 1 . p a , . o r . - L l . \ | n " t u . t . t t . . . . , t , o n t t , ,a 1 J " ' l o g . r o l s . ' n r . t , ! 1 o , . ' t . , L " t t t - . d 1 , . ! ! r c u . . . " t , i ,rDlrl endntll or the autside cdne 15t/!'.fro the b.ttort.

+ICOIINECT ANGENT' OFTADIIlo For sHouL!r r rEfftraa

1 .n , t . t th , , J l ,o los b, '1 . ,hor , . l r n t tud, " " rn " . , ,19 4 r r e i t h p r u p o ,d b n t t n n , . d q , ' 1 ' , . , , d L o t , . T r , , d . o t r(1 \te ;4".f)a)n the sitles, ond bcate the Dotitiro holts.

\

4 Lnn ' , r , , t4 u . ; r t ! A o i l t n r 'h , , - t . l ; , . I t , , | . ,ao. r L t , u , , t u r , t o s . . d t o t t 1 , . 0 . n . t , r . ' a t r i , . s . t . g . , \ t . lpo l t t A . o t td lhe 18" nd ius bot ton larc 6 i ro cerk r po in t B .

oriiiirl: | .:9.:g!^c3,11i1; ;i,DEi) j ,\.|,%^t. -:,1lJi,3lij'

^ Npl t . t ! .o t " t l , . p r tp t po: " t "Jo l I t , . s r ,o1Lad, ,oht l l r t t . p"f e gl,t tod ;, ie ; \g o sttolt rou poss. Then rcr r,f t I ,e o agp\tsol thc tyrd.ii at the tot oJ the tenpldte to onr the shauldeN.WOoDSMITH


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r\ \ ' rcrrwHocs t rH\ \ # 3 n N ' s HNA ' L ll { r/ r ,- l l

FOOTBOARDSHOUIDERDETAIL

THEHEAOAOARDND FOOTBOARD\\rhen he ternplale s conuletcd, he ne\iste! is to us. il to birikl thheadboa (A)and ootboafd Il). Srart bI gluirg up l$opaDels f r l i " p ine, 15 \ t ide bI l?" long.Aftef thrsc lanels arc pl ed andsandedsmooth,d)a\L a lerti.al celterLinon bothpanel,co align he templalc.xr1DBotRD. To rrace hc profileoD heneadboard.positjon the ienr ate so theccnttrlines on boih rieces line up. ThrDi l . l lcetheout l inef helemplalc. c F ig. .Withthe tcm!hle slill irrpositi{D,narkthelocationofthe io| andbottom scfew holcswith an 8 penDJ iDish nril, see 'iF. 6.FooTBo.\RD. dightli difterelt proccdurc s rcquned to trace the profil. onthe lbotboardbccausr ls l '1 'shoterthan the h.adboa .The fiNt stet is to posilioD hc lemllateon rhe ootboard o lrc(enlrr'linci Ijnc uD,aDd he botton rdges fc flush,see ig. ?.Thentmcelhel , / / . r , l t ( / / l r f thetenr ate.onll u! to the shoul.lersneaf the handlc.Wiih the tempLate till in lhis posirioD.nrark the locat ionof lhe lo$er t\to screwholcs ilh an S'penrt iinish najl.To complete he lattcn for lhc footboafd. lifr u! the rcmplare and mark apoinron lhc ceDierlnre01 he pancl liltl,tuom he botton e.lge. sce l'ig. 8. ThenfepositioD he tfmphle so the top ol thehandle s nLrsh$i.h this nark, aDd hccenlcflineson both fieces arc aLigned.No\r trace the top half of the pfoille(ilcludnrg the handle) do\LD o Nhere itintersects hr pfofile of the lo$.r half atshoulder Since he tcmf l { le has beensbiited doNn 1!/., the l" mdius al lheshoukler's oD'thre up rop$ll Nhcfc theulpef and lorverprofilcs mtet.Toproducea smooihcouerbel\teen thctwo profiLes. se a contass to duw a nc\\'l" udiLN cornerbeti!een he shouklef ineand the snle of the loolboard,see 1 g. 9.oRr ,l, !R\ERS. .\ftr lhe trofiles halcbeen ai.l our, drill all the radius corntrs.just like on ihe temllatc. scc l'ig. l{r.(Again. his step s o l l ional . )Shop Note: To pfelent chilout on thcbacksnleofrhe Norktiece, slop diliingassoon $ ihe cenreryointof lhe bit brcaksthroughthe back sidc. TheD lip the \rorkpieceoler and lDishdilling fi om hc backs e, sce Sieps I an.l :l in Fig. r{r.Aitrr .he comers arr dtilled, the remaininslfoiile is cut out oDa bandsalr ofa ,qnbre a\r). and sandedsmoothusins tdunr sand.r sce ig. 11. 'heDusca sabresair to cllt ou! the han.llc.and smooth heedge,.with a fiLe.sre Fig. 12.

cRADl l s lDasOnce he hadboard nd iootboardartconpLeted,he ne\ t step is lo cut thecradlc s idesand lhc bot tom. Glue upenough i pine lor lhr t\\'osides C). anil

!9!E

WOODSivtITH

.l'\


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the boitom (D). Thcn planepanelssmoothand trim tlreby 18' lons..lxcr,EDcRoorE.The side,c fthe cmdleare joined to the bottom \rjth a gooleangledat 15', see Fia. 1;. (This s1.o.rvescut at an .tngle sothc cradlesnles ilt bepalritl Nith the sides of the headboardard footboard,se. Fig. 18.)lbcui thegToov. use.ladadobtadeonthc tablesr\ aDdnadc seleral trial crtsuntil the \idth of the grooie nrat(hcd hethicknessof the bottonr.Thrn I adjustedure angleof the blade o 1;', and ser thedepthofcut to1,, deep,see .is. l j. WlreDthe b]lt(l s set, adiust rhe fcnce o cut agloore i,;" frcn the bottom edg. of theAiter the grooles afc cut, la! out thcprolileon he craiilesidesas shoNnur is.lil. Thcn cut out the pfofile. .hillir)g theradrls corners ir.,qt. nd saDd he pfofilcsmooth Lith a dNm srn{lpr:DRrLr- rr,oTHor,Es. o.join he sid.,s o

t h e h c a d b o a l da n . l f o o t b o a r d . i r s tcouDlerboreaDd drili pjlot holes nr rhcheadboard nd iootboafd of #6 \ 1! , ; "Noodscrc\s ard |/] buttons,see t'is. 16.lo ddl l theDi lot o les D hr ends f thccmdle silcs. dfalr a liDo centefcdoD hrendsand nurk tlre locarionof the botromholes.see 'ig. lil. ]leasurc uD o thc roDholes singexacth thc same pacirqas hrpilor holes on the hta(iboarit anii |oor-bo:rr{].nralh: drill ,;'pilot holes rLdeeDnr thc cndsof thc cmdle snl{'s(r r 3oT'IorI.When the pilor hoiesarcdr i l led, dn-assembl t the s idcs to thehea(lboard nd footboa to ileterrninc hef inal $ idth of rhc bortom. With lhcscpicces cre$.d togethor tmce lhc outlineof the angled gr.ooreson the he:rdboar.tand footboar. l .Thcn disass. ,mblehL,piecesalrd mea$n.ebct$eeDrhe gloolest0 deternnrcthe firal \ idth of the bottoDRo[\Dlx(; rjDGEs. hc last ste! is trrroundo\ er ail the ril,res.fthc headboard.lootboard,and the to! edgeson ttre sides.( l used r j round lefb i t set oadeDth fii,, io producea softened ullDoseDrofite.Shop Note: As I Nas louring thc head-board:rndootboad, erefl rimc I calne ooneofthe 'points oD hc profile there the$nm dn.ectionmadearrabNpt change, hewood eDded o chip our, sc l.iA. M. lbpre\enr hr: , ou ma) \ant tu i tot ro t inA. tust hortuf the l r , I r t . - , ar fu!n. l o\ rlhis areabt handsith nfile andsand|aperlssElrBr. ! .F inal ly,a l l the pi rcos arercadl ro assemble. nset rhe borlom inth sides,but doDl glLret in place.ODtvapplr glueto th. endsof the cradlesides.then attach the headboardand iborboardNith #8 r 11" lvoodscrNs.Finallv I fiDishedhe cradlewirh threecoatsof ftng Oil Vanish, and covered hescre$ holcs Nith /;' bultons.

WooDSIr{tTH

fOOTBOARDEND CRADI.EIDEDETAIL I" . . Tl f jHEADAOAiDEND+ I n, , J . l' l il r .1' l ! " .I Ji ,l."l Il 1 r .

r I r \ --FIOT HOIE rO R#3 WOOOSGTEWT" -

ISIE MrcH oADow'orH

MATERIALSLISTOvbll Dinen3ionr l6"W x l4"H - t9% t

A r i e o d b o d id t ) y . x 1 5 -1 7{5 pie.. slucd-lp ponel)B Fo o r6 o . rd l ) 3 /a r r s - r7{5 pie.c slued,up pdnel)c S i d 6 ( 2 ) % r 3 - t 8(2 pio.. slued-up pon.l)D Bo fo m ( l ) 1 / . \ 7 Y . -1 a(2 pie.e glvcd-up poncl)

CUTTINGDIAGRAM z,.'


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TVA/CR StandA STANDFORVIDEORECORDERND TAPES

I t u s e d o b e t h a t e r r r r o n e$ a n t e d a c a b i n c t o f s t e r e oe q u i p n e D t . N o w i i s ! i d e oequjpment. njust the paslJoarthe numbefofrcquests$ c !r hadlof ihis tlpe of stand has beenstaggetng.The standNe came p $ i th isdesigDedo holil r pofable telelision, anil has a compartmeDtFith slassdoo$ lbf a vnlco fe-cofder:we alsoaddedadniteftostore deo casselles.T H l 5 l O E 5

To buil.l this stand. I slated b)edge glu ing rnough 5/1 stock( l f i i t h i c k ) t o g e t t \ o s i d cpanels(A) !'ith a roush size of22" 2? . \\'lren ihe glue is dr]!plane these panelssmooth, andrrin Ihem to final dimensioDs f21r, ' . :11)! , see ' ig. 1.THE cRoovFis. ' lb fofm lhcbrsic cabiDet , hrce pl l !vood

both the front edgc and the backcdgc, sct l'ig. l.nrDr)r .E Roo\E. The niddlegroole is positioDedl1 tuom heboltom cdgc. This gfoolc rls0srops ri' lmr]l ihe tuonredge toaligDNith rhe top gloole). Bul ite\tends a litlb clos.r to thr backedge stoppilg r!' tiom the backe.lge) o alip Nith the cabiD.t'splJ-$ od back, scc I'ig. :1.rloTTi)rr ;RoorE. The bottongroole is Nsitione.l lf, from thcbotton cdge. This gfoolc srops%" ftom thc back edge, hesanreas the mirklle gloole. Ho\relerls ince he bot tom shel f . loesn' t

have a tonl+rL'ofan cdging stti!,this gfoorc stopsL', farthef backilran the tof t\ro gfoores, seeFig. 2.RoLTcRoovDs.Alter the stoflinesarcnarked, clanp a fencenilosition, sc. Fig. 1. Then fout a7"-$ ide gr.oo!e betweeD he

shehes are mounted to the sides usiDgtonsuc rnd sroole jo ints. This mearsthfce l"-side Sroo!sarr routed n eachShopNote: Nofm:llti the glain on lhesides of the cabnretNould ruD \edicallrBut I had to Nn ir lrodzontallyon this

cabinetbecausehe pl$lood shehs hrrcto begLu.d n glooles that run the /.rail'o f ihe sol id 1 'ood sidcs. (Sol id woo. lerpands/contrac[ n r{idth, but not muchin length. Pl ) i rood does not erpand/contraci at all. So, lhe pLlitood shelleshave ro run the ler!'llr of the ,.olidNood

smes o aro pfobldns.)ln addilion, he $ooles for lhe shelvesafe double-stopted stoplcd sho[ ofboththetj ont andbackedgcs.Bcfote out-ing theaoolcs, I mnfked he stop inesonrhc cabinci side,.,see 1,iC- 1.Nole: The gfoolcs sto! : t i d i f ferentpoints bccause of ihe alignnent of theshchcs, the edgnrgstrips, aDil thc plJ-\Loodback. lb get an .lea of $hrts goingon, fefer to Figxre 2.ToP cRoovE. The groove ibr the topshelf s positioned i down from the topedgeofrhe sjdepanol,and stops '/," tron

linesslatnrgeach pass tjth aplungecut.seUaREENDS. ftcr the glooles Neferouteil, I uscd a chisel o chop he eDdsofthe $ooves ,cquare t the stop lines, seeDeiai l in l ig . 1. (This hclps a l ign theshehesduiDg lhe glue'uf thase.)HOLES ORSrrFX,!r{s an oltton, a glassshelf can also b added rbole the lideorecorder To do this drill three fL dia.hoLesa" deep n the cabnrctsnles or'pir!itJle shelfsupports. see F g. 1.Ror'\D EL rcES. o complele he sides,mundeil thc corneN to a '.,"'mdius, andthe cdgeswith a '11"founil orcr bii.

I srDE ANEr@ t\L+

-

WOODSMITH

Jo

lsl


9/24

THESHELVISNow lhc lhrec shehes canbc cul to roughsizeout of 3,1 oak-leneer flywood. (Inofdef to get all thfe shehes out of aI r l p i e c e f p l l N o o d . h a d t o ( u i i h tbotton shelf ith the giain runDing i omtuont o back, see FiA. ll.)cLTSHELTES o srzE.Aftcr cutting theshelles to rough size,cut them to a fDalvidth of98 l/ , Thencut each hel f o thesame ength as the corcsponilinA loorein lhc cabinct sidcs, scc Fis. 3.

IDGING5IRIP5Bc orc mounting he shel!es o thc cnbinetsnles, cul three edgrngstits (E) lbr thetop andnidilLe shelves i on 5/.1 tock, viwide and ro rough lcngth of 2$'.cRoo\'!rs.Thesestlil).sarejoined to thepl$ood shehes Nillr tomguean.i g1oolejo ints, sce F is. 3. To do t l r is , foul a'/ , -wide groole h each sirip, r, do\rnfrom lhe top edge,see ig. .1.

Shop Note: I routed theseglooles onlhr muter t able so thc) \'oulil match thegaooles n the cabiDet ides.This wal ihetongues an be cul exactlr_he sanreon al lcdgcsof th shelvcs.vH:- Ix(r .Ne\ ! , rout t \ fo ' t i , " - { idc drc-orative veininggiooles on the two stdpsthat go on tlre fronl edgesof the top andmiddlc shelfes, sce Fig. 5.Ror'\D ED(:Es.Tbeno cornpleie he rwofionl st ps, round the tot an.l boltornedges, see Fig. tj. As for the stdp thalgoeson he backcdgeolthc top sbelf,cut a'l/1,'\vl rabbet for tbe plywoodback, androod orer the top edge, see ig. ll.TONGUES N SHELVES$tlcn th. edging stips Nere complete,\LentbackLo ork on he shehes.All thrccshel!esha!etonguesonthe t\ro edges haijoin to tle cabi.et sides, efer to l is- 3.Thc top and middle shelv.s a lso haretongues or the edging srlips.ct r ro\ctEs. I cut hese ongue,cn hcroutertable, see 'ig. r-.Set he lenceandcut i\ro %"-eide -abbcts. caring a toDguethat fits snugly n the grooles.ShopNote: -{s the cuts for lhe tonguesareset up, mirkcsure he ton!3lesare positionedso he top edgeoflhe edgingsitip isjust slightlx aboye he suface of the ply-

\rood.Then the soliil Nood edsing can besanded ovn flush riih thcplr\rood.AS5EMBIEHI CASINEI

Aftef the ton$es are cut, dry assenblethc cabinet o mak. surc the shelves ineup assholvnr l . ig . 2. I fa l l f i tswel l ,g lueandclamp heshehesto thecabiDetsides.Wll.n th slue is dry on this assembl r',cur the edging strips to fiml sizc(to fi ttight benveen he cabinetsides),and henglueand clamp hem to the tongres on he

+ , s % , _ - - - + ]I

L

'- TOP HEUo,,-"ft1[..]^t}Sui,,m, Tt- *,r ".torc rorcurs o or cnoovss ITOPSHEIF

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ltMIDOIESHE(f

L I

MIDDLEHEtf@

' iJvEINNa B[-J:

oIAIE cU TEDGING[E

WooDSMTTH


10/24

IHE DRAWERAfterthe cabinet assexrhle.l,he duNtfcan eadded. efe shoul . lmcnt ionfe$things rbout the sizeof lhe (lfaNe'1whendesi$ring this pfo.jccl. I acturlll staric(lNi th hcdimrns t r iof thedra\ tcr mrk-nrg it $jde enough o holil thfce ro\ts ofridtotapes. Thcn I irLtihhe cabiDet o hcnrsd. \ridth accomnx,dateddrairef nnhthese mcrsurcme.ts .cLT ' rDcEslo lzE.This1i |a\er s co!slfLrcted sing l'!' st ock fo f al l inur sides.TheD ateraf r lsc l toDt s ad. ie. l . osl t .ri! thc lieces for the iioDt. bacliard sidesto n cornnron i{lth of 1!'1jsee l iC. !.Thencut the s ides ( i l to a l tDgthof 15.Thc clitical measurcmcnl s the lengthof the tiont and brck l)ieces 1 1. ieasurethe disranc bcnreen he cabincls esandsubrf rct l " Ior the . l fa \ef s l i ( le ! . Thedm(er sli.tes useil cqLrirea li!'spa.c oneach ide. ) hen ubnad the hic lmrss fthedra$rr 's wo si . teieces l ' tot r l ) , aDdddd L" lol the lL lorg tongLrrs rn theendsol the tiont an(l blclt t)i(es.r(n\c&\: Aikr lhe ftur piccs at cLrlto s izr , thel le jo inc( l s i lh loDgueard(hrlo i.Drts. lb cul lhcs{, onrts, ilfst cutf. \r.le da(locson ihe eD{lsof lhc s e! icc.s. s. r the I \ !Dt .nd Br(k ComefIjrraih nr l ig. !. Thcn(ur mbbets oD heeDds f th. i lor l ard backpi .ccs, 4\ r lgtoDgncs har ll t !he (ladors.(inoovri r'olr lroTTorl. Allcf the jonrtculs are comllctc. cLrl a goote l'l ffomthe bottoD cdgc ofeachpiecc or lht !l\"

rnvrDrxrs.Also. cur 1'-!ride dadors onihe nsidc acts ofthetioDtandbrck piecesforthc lNo di!i.ters(I'I).Dr\'assemlte thedfaNer to gel the mensufementsor lhtd i ! ers, and cut thm lo s izr to l i tDetitc rne gioores.,lssrinIBr-r: eforc firrrl rssembltr rldllsi\ couDter unk pik,t holesnr tnc (Iru$clfroDt fof lhr scfeits that hol(l lht thlsef ronl o hedra\ tet lsc. l_ is. 11.1he! thedrurvercaD egiuedan(lclnmF.l togetnerr\r,sE FRo\T. o$ the j:lse fronl (J ) jsaddcd. Thj" tuonr s cut lo fough leDgthfion 1,1 stock, rboLrl I loDger han thco|eningiDhc crbinet . henr i ! i l lo si ( l thto cqurl thc distance rom rhc top oi thebot|om shell to thc bollttn of the edgingstlip on the nidille sheli less '. iorcletr-ance, cfer to t_ig. 1il.Elr(J\csTRIr'. ie\t. cul lhc tdgrDgstrif(E) rhrr Foeson thc boltonr edgeof thcirlse nont. This slr-i! is cu! lL \tidc fronr5i1stock, ce ' ig . 10. ' Ihen oul tqo ! , "lciDing cuts on the face siilr. aDd he top,ind bottom rdscs are huD.le.l with a r, ifould o\ef bir. reier to Figs. t .].d 6.Aflcf lhe nol.ling cLrls fe trade on thispiece, luean.iclamp t t. the bottom dgol rhe {has cr l'r'oDt.WhcD he slue is dr}'.cur thr dmwer frut lo ilnal length to lit

FRONTCORNER

T! -, - l

o

' l ' r

aGUiEr- ToPvtEw of DRAWER

trouiE? stDE Ro55sEcTtoN

1!l WOODSIvIITH

J.


11/24

betneen the cabinrt siiles. essa toral ofDR1$ER LrDEs.Eelbre moLrnting hefalse foDl to the dm\rcr fiNt nount rhcdrawelslnles, see ig. 13.Thenattach hefalse uont o thc dFNer Nith No. li x 1

rH. GLA55 DOORSIl Iou hale a lidco rccorder sith a $ifelcss rcmote cono.ol.onh slassdooN rlillallo$ thc remorecontfol to opemte irhik'the doorsarc closed- o determinethesizeof the glass or the ilooF, first orrlcr andmount he hinges seeSoufccs,page2l) torelj4 the cleafances.llount the hinges o the cabineis . sothe\"fc set back y; ' nom the faceof theedging strip and r," above hc shclf, seeDetail n I ig. U. Then hale the glasscut

roLcH L.\TCH. o coDrplctr h doofs. ImouDteda doublc mapetic touch iatch.This s a cleler pieccof hardNare hrt let sIou olcn aDd close he doors \rithoLriahandle.sce Sources.pg. :1. In ordef tomount he latch. gluea spacefblock o theundcfside f ihe top shcl i see f is . 1?.Ther scfe\ the touch atchto this block.

IHE BACKNorDralll $hen buil.lnrga crbinet. oneofthe last steps s cuttiDgthe brcl! to size.Al lhough hat 's t r 'ucwi th th is cabiDet ,theres oneotherstep fof this back cuttnrganacccss ole o fted \\ n.s andcablcsto the lideo rccofderctT To srzE Stut bI cuiting the f,"r\alood back (K) ro ilt the back of thccabnret, ee 'ig. 15-Thentheacccss ole scut for the Nires. To do this, mark theboundrdcs ofthe accelshole so t s in IincNith ihe brck of the lnleo fccorder:To cut this hob. I stated bI d nrgr! -tiia. holsat each corDerl h comlletethe holr.. sabfesaNcoLrlil c use(|. Lil h.edges rroukl come ou! pfrrtt splinrefed

Instead. cut t out oD he ourrr rable.(A routrr \ritlr ri sn.aighrbit trodu(cs asnooth.cleal cut on lr1lood.) Aiijust rheienceoD the routel table so rhe bir iustbarcll skims he edAeofthc li' dia.cofncrhole. see letail in lig. 16.When the ience s scl. lilt up thr plyirood brck. turDon he fourrr aDdsio$l!l lunge hc pl ! \ood backonto he bi t andfout to the othcf comer hole.Repeat hisprocedure brall foLD i{ les .,gei an accesshole$ilh lerfecill smooth edAes.WheD hc rccesshole s com!lete. screNthe back n placr itith No. {l \ l'L irood,scrc$s. I alsomountcd ou 2 slrnrlcasteN to the lottonr shellFI\ISHI\{;. Tofinish the cabilrcr, gareall suffaccsa tinal sandinq ith tE0 r1-itsandpapcrand then applicil tNo conti oi

II

CUEAWAYVIEW ROMBAC(

= t- roP H.u

MATCRIALS ISI

CUTTING IAGRA'\'A I A I

Ov.Efl Dimentionr, l%"h x 29'A"|| /21% AA s idB 2) 1116r21r . 21%B Iop sA. f f r ) a / . t ra ,A-7a ' / .c Middl. s$efr t) v. x 191/2-2awD Borr.h sh.lf (r ) t/4, i9'/. - 2a'/.E Edging r r ip54) t1 l6 '11/ . -27! .F Drcvet hn s.


12/24

Kid's SingleBedTHISONEIS A REAL LEEPERAs soonas finishedbuiiding he bunk bedsho\I. on he cover. Legathered ogethersom of lhe lt',ods,'ill kids and askedthem for an eripet opinion.The reaciionwas umnimous e.resopened$ith de-ligh! a! the sight of lvhal looked like ajunsle nn mther rhan a place o sleep.In fact, KatieOed's hree-year-old) ashaling so nuch fun explodng he heightsofthe top bunk, Uratwhen t wastine to go she exclaimed, No, Iwant to stal - I'll lake a nap ont h i s b e i i , o k a y ? " T e d ' s a i rdropped,and he decidd he bedwas !eo(h any amount of time

The sinslebcd shownat righl isdesigncd o t can be used alone,or lwo ofthem can be sta.ked tofom a bunk bed. WtrctherJoulcbuikling onebed oI two, the con'struction procedure starts out

hH,.,ffit;,'IHT UPI IGHIS

I slarted by cutting the uprights for theheadboardand footboard oui of 5i4 oak(lhd'thick actual).The tlvo upishts (A)fo r the headboard re 1 \i'i.le by 34 Lo .s,and he uprighls (B) for the footburd are1" wide bJ 28" high, see Fig. 1.illoRrrslrs.After the updghts are cut rosize, hrough moftisesarccutforihe crossrails.Thesemodisesare madeby ddllinsaseries of v,-dia. holes. cenrered on thewidth of the updgh ts, see Fig. 2.To form t)re bottom modiss on ali fouruprights, mark a '/a-dia. hole centered10% up from the bo tlom end of the updghl, seeFig. 1 . Then marka second olecenlered l[ " up fion ihe first.Drill these wo holesand continueNith aseries of overlapping holes to form thcmoftise, sceFig. 2. (I useda Fors tner bithere becauset Fill drill oyerlappinsholessithour slidjng off course.)For the top mortises,measurcup 24,/,"on rheheadboard pright (A), and 22rl;'onthe footboard updsht (B) for th firstholes.Then driLl he second o lesccnterci l3Y1up from the firsL holes,see !'ig. 1.cLEl \ rP MoRrrsE. o clean up thecheeksofthe mortises, clampeda guiileboardalons he edse ofthe holes o gridethc chisel,see Fig. 1. To get tbe cleanestedse on both s es, I choppedonly halfwax down,and then Ilipped hc piecolefto clean ut the morlise ron the backside.DRn-r-lor-EsFoRsrDEao-{RD. he laststep on all four updghls is to drill tNo,/ . dia. holesneit to the boilom mortises,I2 WooDbMlrH


13/24

see lig. 3. Although ihesc holes aren'tused until later (to joir the bed s siileboards betlrecn the headboardaDd fooi-board, cferto Fig.29). I drillcd themnowFhile it's easl to get lo this area.THERAIISNe\t, the Lrplights ar joined together\ith t$o cro,csails {C). Thcsc rails are;'Nide and hen length sdeterm nedbJ" Nolhings: ) thc wiilth ofthe mattress.nnd 2)the lengthof thc tcnons.It\ best o get a measufcment fom themaltress oure goilg to use. (Thc Scafstnattrcss I uscd is 37'! 1ride.) XleasLrfethe \ dth ofthe mattrrss anii add l" togetrhe lhat lL l . r to shouLd. r engthof themils, ,qee g. 6. (Thc additional3" allo$sfor tlre tNo sideboa s plLrs liltle clear-ance or the mathss-)Noi! add lhe lcngth of the tNo teDons.SjDce he motises go all ihe Na) th roughthc upights. the tenonsNouklnormalit.becut long enouglr to also go all thc \ralthrough. But I drcidcd to cut thetelons

t', short - to lenle room or a iiller plug.rcfcf to F iA. l t . (This is r r a i I \a l toAeta pefect frt 0n lhc .nd oI the tenor thaisho\s through the mo[ise.)c|]TTHERIIL. No$ the railcrn bc cut tof i Ia l engih. ceFig.5. Thencut teDonsonboth eDds o tit snuglr in the mortises,seeFig. 7. (Rcfer to llbodsDr//r No. 26 for astep-b!-iilc! article on cutting n mortiseIHE SIAIS

Beforc oining the crossmils t., ihe uptghts, the slats harc lo be cut. To Dakeihc 10 slats (D) 1br the hcr.lboard, statwith flle pi.ccs oft,il stock 2 \LidebI 16lorg, see fig. 8. The 10 slats (E) fo r ihelootboafiican be cut tuom hrec piecesof5,.1 tock ' \ri(le bl 16 loDg.RHsl\\nL.rTs. o$, resar! hesepi.ccsnrhalf(see ig. 9). and hcD set the lencc orcsaN hehailed piecesto final thicknessof'rl, , sec Fjg. 10.

GROOVESN RAIISThe slats \oul.l normah be mounted tothe rails bt culting a lrhole se es of indiridual mortises.But thefc's an easiers al :I uscda notched tacersn iu hat's set ntoa gloole on thc edge of the rnils. rcfcf toFig.21. h is, nef f rct ,pfoducesse rsofnonN.s rre ea,ctNa)1cLr cIf,_TEREDRun E. To mount thisspacer oiu, elooles are cui centercd onthe edgesof the ujls, see l,ig. 1:. To dothis. set the fenceso he blad s nearthc.enier of the stock. and mnkca pass,seeStep nr ig. 1;1.Noit flip the rail aloundso he otherfaceisagainsl hefenceand nake nothr pass,seeStep2. \udgc he fencea\Lay rom thebhdc anii fepeat his pfocess Steps3 and.1) ntil the Sroove s rvideenough of theslats,seFig. 1,1.

O ctoss nalus5/40%.:no.xtrEAtunEM Ts5HOWNrE or 37? rt|,trrRss IIcRo55

**r!ro" l='- JEcIoNI CtO55 tA[.

r k=-

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FOOISOARDlt4I

II lgIE LENGIHI

WooDsMrrH 13


14/24

O sPAcEnrRrP

stDE tEw - 1 , " 1ur ENr N cRossRAI 'l

a_

,{fiII" / / t t r/ / | I :

NOTE:ffi_t]y*#2

DETAIL DETAIL

SPACIR TRIP5]b completc he headboard nd ootbr|3rd.thc norched pacefstils(F )hale to becul

n.{RX D.\l)oES.b mak. thesenotchedstrips. sla{ Nitlr a picceof 1,1 slock 2rlrlwide andtdnmcd to length to match heshoulder o-shoulder ensth of ihe cmssmils (C).see ig- 21Nos mark tlre boLrndaes ofthe 9' $idtdadoesalong lhii piece. starling at .hecenterand wofking toNards hc cnds.seel'ig. 1;. (\Iork liom lhe center out to geteveDspacingat ihe ends,no matlcr ho$Nide fie nato ess s-)cL-rDADoBs. ftcr m:rrkiDghe positionof all the dadoes. started lo cul thcm.tJnfortLrna.e[I iound hat lhe $orkliecehadn eDdencyo slideai t he cut Nas bciignade.:Ibpfelent this, I attached f.ncc.othe mitcr gauge. TheD clampedn stop tooDe nd andused he ! f.rce at the othercnd to defiDe hc limits of ihe dado. sect'ig. 16.Sho! Notc: Snrcehe da(loes ft spacedequrlh ircm the ceDtcrouL.cut oDeoflhecenier dadors firsr. then tliP thc bornarouDil o cLrt he dadoon the olher sideoi

ct r sl1cf,R sTRII's.l\rhDll thc drilotsare .ut. ip this tiece to form the lbufspacersni l f , ee ig. r7. Ripeach t l i f n)width to lit $uglJ in ihe giooles thccross ails. Then resa\r then to size l'ig.1l-{l o hr iop edgeoflhc stiitr is flushwiththc rdg of the uil.When thc sldps llt the gloor.s, sltrcthen nr place. A!o usnrg oo muchglLtei l might ee! intothchort ises. ) \ l ]cntheglue s {lf): rur themiltluough lhc sa$to r im hc ofsof thesPaccf f lushwirhtheui l , see ig. ?0.NOUNO DGIS AND ASSEMATE

Thc last stepbefofe rsselnbling he headboardand oolboard sloroLtndihecorDersard e.lgesof th. updghtsand uils.RoLtr-D DcEs. iist, foun.l lhe c()Il'eFof lhe uprights to a !'! fi:tdilF. I used aquarter to ur l i thendius. seeDetai lA nl ig. :1. Ne\t, au the eilgcs afe founded\ilh a L roun{l olcf bil or the routeft3ble. seeDrrail B il t'ig. 21.Beforr assemblr , in isn sand r l l .hepi.ces especialll hc shls. ,\l,qo. creltlhfended nserls in lhe lop holesnear thebotioDr ail. fefef to fig. ?9. (See l'dxlsrrtl, No. 30 lor :] good echDnrucor in-stalliDg niets usnrg a dfill trfess.lissE$rBl-\:-\_o$ drr-.rsenble the updghts aDduils to gei the tinal lcnlah lofthc slats.Afterthe slatsafe cLrt o length,mount them et \ tcenhe mof t isesoDthce(lges f hr ruils.(Ilon t useanl glut hcre,just bl the slats noat in lhr mortises.lThcngluean.lclam! lhe notlise aDd enonjoiits (the updghls and tnils) togethct:

(,

'II

1 4 N o o D S l l l l H


15/24

I\AORIIs' PLUGsAs I mentioned arliert cut the tenonsonlhc crossrails i shoft o allo\tlbrdecon-tile fillef plugsat h cndsofthe moftises.(lt\ a ot easier o cuttheseplugs o fit themol1is.peffcct]I than l js to cut thetenon

To make heseplugs, dp a pieceof oalrinto three stdps, see 'ig. 29. ThenI cuttr!o stlips of$dnut lo simulate he endsofNedses( lo make the jo int looh l ike a$edsed noitise and tenon ojnt).Lrninatc thcse i!e pieces ogether and\rhen the glue is dr')t fesr\ thi-cpjece omatch he \ridth ofthe nortise (L/:1.Thcnfip ir t o siz. ro match the height of thenroftise, refer to F g. 23.NoN here'swhercallthis $ork lals of tRound hc edgsof lhis filler plug oD herouter tableNith a ! roLuxloler bit, seeFig. 21. This will nrakea peffe( fit \riththe drilled end holesoi the mol'lise.ltoLNT PLLG.Cul off ,/"' long slices olthe lannratedsiip |rndglue them lro themortises.Then hefe\ one mor. tick. Tosmooth hc plug flush with the face ,f thcupright, cut a XlNonite base or the muterand glue tso %"-thick llltsonite spacerpads o the ba-+, see ig- 26.I'lounta % straight bir in the foutef andsel the detth to cut flush viib lhc spacerpads.Noirthe endsof heplugscan asilybercuted flush sith the faceofthe uplights.

THESIDEBOARDSAL his poiDt he headboard nd ootboardafe c.rmplelc.All thafs needed Ethe,qideboa s (Gl thal tun the length ofthe bed-Thc s c boards are 5 rvide and cur tolengthso hcJ'r'c " longer han the lergrhof the matness, see 'ig. 2?.DRILLHoLEs.After the sidebo:udsarecut o size.holesarcdiLled at botheDds orthe boll aDddowelpin that afe used ojointhen to the headboafdand footboard.(Note: $/hen locatins these holes,$halyou \Lant s for thc holes n thesideboardsto nratchup Nith ahcholcs alreadr' i lledin the upights, reter to t'ig. :9.)DRn,LHoLEs. fter iocating he centef-pointsofthese holeson the outside aceofthc side board, I drilledthem bl startingNith the couDterbofe n he top holeon h.nis . face,seeStep r in Fi s. 28.Then liprh. side boar.l oler and (hill I n. shankholc. using he ceDteryoint narkedon theorl.st.l.face, scc Step 2.-{lso. drilt a stoppcd ['dia- bole lbr adoNelpnr on the outside acc, se Step l.To complete he side boa , roLrnd lrreeedges dth a r']" ound ovr bit as sholvnnStep .,rssErIBLr'.inall]. glue a l/tr'doNel inthe hole in thc upight and tes! ihe assemblyof tbe side boards o the upright ,qbI sc.e\ringan,i' \ 1'1"heribeadbolt ntothe lhrcaded nseft, see 'ig. 29.

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DRAWERONSTRUCTION TOPVIEW\

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'HI CLEAISThe Last lcp oD he sidcboardsis o mounta clcar (H) lo the bott.tn edge o su|poftlhe nath essboard nd mallress.rrIEcl,E.rr.Thiscleat s madebI ilpinga picceof;A stock Lr'$ i.l and o lengthlo match hc side boa . ThenD)ount hccleats bI counterboing a ,t dia. holc.follo\rcd b) a',i,, dir. sh:nk holc (all theNal-thfough),sc. Cro,qs ectionn 'is.30Now clamp he clealtothc sideboardsoits flush $iih the bottom edse and dfilltilor holesnr the sidc board. l'inall\', un'dampthecLeat ,pply lue o heedge, nd

.qssElrBr.r:{t lhis lr.riDi, he bcd is c.mDhte. I Aave t a fnralsandingand inishedit \tith two(oats oftuns oillamislr. \\herthc finish s drr', t sjust anutt.r ofbolrnrgthcsi{leboafdsto heupigh|s aDdpultingihe lrattfersboa and maliress in Placc.IHE DRAWIR

Af lcr the be( l as done, thought i l$ouldbe handl to add No Largt oll-out storagcdmwers. These dfa$er! are ilsisnedsotber (an be buill andadded henelerJouhale timc. Notel Thc dnlensions snenherearc ofa dmwef($i th9 casleF)thatfits aD opening 0'high the sFce be_tlreen the bolton edgc of the si.lc boav{l:tnd he floor see Fig. .11.DRAIYERRo\TS. Start bJ (uttrng thcdra$er tuonts o size.Thc Nidth (heishl)oflhc draNer fronl is 7[. The lenglh isfiqured br measuiDg bet\Leen he headboard and footboard up ghts and sub_rracrins a total of 'r". (This allows 'l iberwee; ihe tNo d|aweN. and ri at eachenil.) Then dir e this difftrnce b."': loset the lenr'1hof eachdlnNer $ont_ rHEsIDEa.Next. cut thedm$ef sides oa i r id th of 7, scc l ig- l l . lThel re v,shoder than lhe top ofthe dmrver ioni lThe length ofthe draNcf sides s optionalI cul thm 20 long.loI \Enr. I asscmbledhese draNefsNilh doletail loDgue and gtoole joinrs.(These oints are easitr to cut than theysound-See the sl tD-by ste! at l ic le in$:oods, r i l lNo.31. )Do\'ttTiIL cR(xJvES.'jfsl. sel uprourer rable Ni th a rr" dotela i lcentered from Lhe encc, see FigThen rout llrdeep dole.ail groorcs

3 1 .both erds of the draser hont. stoppnrgthesegrooves6'1" from the bottom edge,see Fig. 31.With the router table slill set\!ati also out doretail gmovesons e faccs ol lhc dra\Ler smsil.a{er back, seeDetail B nr lig. t3_l)ovET.tll, oucLEs. After tht gloolesare cut. adjust hc lenceon he rouleriable(bui don't change he hcight ofthe bii) torout dolctail longucs on the snle pieces,seeFig. 32.Then rim the to! endof $e

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DRAWER RONT

t6 WOOI)SMITH

I

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17/24

toDgres o fit the stoppedgrooles in thcAftefthe tongucsarc cut, drl assenblethe si.les o lhe tuontan(l measure o gcllhe linal l.ngth for the dfarver back.Cutthe back to lengt h and then cLrtdoletailton$es on both ends o fil rhe glooles incRoo\ E FoREorrou. FinallJ. $ritclr to

a'li stmight bit to rout g}ooles li fromthe boltom edge of th drawer front andsiilcs of the Ll"'Masoniteboltom.H, l \DLD oi_ FRoIT. Before f inal as-senrbl]', otnplete he dmwcr'ftont bJ cuttingout the handlepullon thetopedge. ect'ig. ill. Thenround hc fouf corDeNoitheilont to a le radiusand rou|d thr edgcsNi th a L1' round Yefbi t .c'\srFiRs.No\ the dra\rcf-scan be gluedand clamted together -{fter thcll-c assembled, mounted fouf casLerso ea(hdm$cr, see Fjg. ij7. SiDce he .lraNefbottom !, onh %'thick, I aildcd 1/," paceflads an.l ihen nounted the crslers Nirh'l l nachine screlrs. see ig. rl?.DRAWINGUIDE AIL5The guide slstem for these drawers isfaifl) simplc: since the dra\reN are onc a s t e r s , h e g u i d c r a i l s j u s t a c t a s"bunpers to guide he dr?Nef as i t s

I cut Lheguidemils out of5/! stock ,i/i\ide and mounied hem io Lhc bottom ofilre cleatson tlre sideboalds, ,.ee 'ig. 39.(Inslendofmounlins lhem pemanent\,, Iused threaded insrls so theJ could beeasih cnroled fthe bed vas akenalart.)Posilion the middle guide ]lail so it'scentefedon ihc l.ngth of the bed. 'fhenlositionthe tlto outside ails so hclallo$fof th. iridth of tlre dra\rerflus ti cleaf,\iATEtlAlS usT

Oveell oamn3ion.: 42% YV r ao" L- 34'H

A r ie d d h o ld Up r ig h h ( 2) 1 % a x 4 -3 aB Fo o lb o .d Up r ig h B 1 2) l% o x 4 -2 4C CD.s Rr i k (4 ) 1 t ^ . x s -4 2D H .o d b o o rdS lq r . ro ) % x 2 -1 3 %E F .o rb o d d s ld B ( ro ) v , t2 -7 1 /2F Sp6.er srripr (4 ) Y. , 1/ ' 4o'hG 5 i .1 .s o d d r (2 ) r1 / \ . r 5 - r5H Cfeorr (2 ) | 1/,6, | 1/ . 75I Didw.r F6nr (2 ) t%6x 71/.- 35'/..f oEw.r Sad.. (4 ) 'h 17 -2 o| ( DEw. r Bc c l ( 2 ) V , ,7 -3 3 r .I DEw.r Bonoh t/ . \ 14./.. 33'/.M Ddw. r G! id . . (3) lva t l ' / . -3A.1N r .dd. r Up,aghr .2) 1u6r2-49O rddd. r u .$934} 1r1 , t z 'h -121/2P G u o dn o i l r ) 1 % . x 5 , 3 6a Gu. rdUpr ishh 2) 1t . \2 - r3r1

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. tWOODSMITH r7


18/24

Bunk BedSTACK'EMUPFORTWICEAS MUCHSLEEP

Ifyou want to make3 bunkbed, t'sjust amatter of buildins two single beds andstacking hem. But lhai's not the whole

The si.sle bed s desigredwith a head-board hat's6" higher than the footboard.If you want to make t\ro bds o fonn abunk bed, h lorverbed s built rvith tivoheadboads 34"hish) and the top bedhastwo fooiboards 28"high).Normally bunk beds are stacked andheld in placewith a steel pin in the up-rishts. This pin kerps the uprisht. lromJidinsof f - but i t doesn seLd?Phe upper bed to the lower bed.tf rheg1ly n the lo$er bed tries to kickhis brothr out of ihe upper bunk, thewholebed cancome oose much to thechasrinof the on n the lower bunk.

xNocK-DowN f|lrlNGWe thousht it wouldbe nic o add alittlesafety eaturehere byjoinins the updghtswiilr a knockdown ittins, seeFig I Thislitting consisisof a steelpin that screwsintoaplastic nset ononeendandattachesto a cam collarat lhe ot her end.NoterThep.ocedureandmeasurementswe used o mount this fitting vary a littleFom th instructions hat camesith it.vourr cAMcoLL{R, To mount tbis fit-tinq, lirst drill a l"-dia. hole on the insidefac; of the upper uprisht, see Fis. 1. (Iused a Po fialigl and Forstner bit here )This hole s centeredon the widtb of theupright and 1'l" up fron rhe bottomedge,seeFig. 2. It's alsostoppdr,/i'deep.HoLE roR srEEL PIN.Next , ddl l avs"-dia. ole or the steelpin in the bottomend 0flhe uprighr so t intercectsNith the

l"-dia. hole. Acain, I usd a Pol1-aligr io d ll this hole centered

MoUNTFllrrNc. To mount the fitting,scres' the steel pin in the plastic nseft.

%" in from lhe tdide face,seeFig 1.Hor,n oR INSERT,inally, drill another:,/i'-dia. hole in the bottom upright for thplasticinsert.This hol s alsocentered nth width ofthe uprightand v,"infromtheinside ace. (I t must Lineup exactiysiththe hol in th botiom of the uppe tp-right.) After this hole is drilled , tap iheplastic nsert in place.

Then owerthe hole n tbetop upright olertbesteeLpin seeFis- 2), andpuslr hecamcollarin rhe "-dia.hole.Use ascrewdriverto twis! the cam collar so it calches hehead of the steel pin- (As the collar istuned, the camactionpulls the steelpintishi inside he collar.)Finalh, cover he holeswith ihe plasticcap hat comswiththefitling, seeFig 2IHI LADDER

Nobunkbed is complete orany fun)sithout a ladder The ladder t madhooksonthe side rails of both beds.r,aDDER PRIcHls,Theupights (N) forihe ladderarecut tsomapieceof5/4stock,49" ons, see Fis. 3. In order to have hedadoes or the rungs ine up exacily, cutthisDiece ouble-wideto esinwith. (Wideeno;sh for two 2"-$ide updghts plus 1/.'for the kerfbetseen lhem anda litue fortdmning it up.)cuT DADoEs. o mount the rungs, cutfour %"'deep dadoes across this piece.(Note: W})ensettingup thes cuts,chckthe width olthe dado$iih the aciualstocktobeused for the runss. The rungsshouldfit tishi in the dado.)The first dado (at the boltom of theladder) stads l'from lhe end The nextthree are spaced12" apalt, seeFig 3.colr|pr,ETE pRrcHTs. fter lhe dadoes

,n Fo,orloato II o

18 WooDsMrrH


19/24

arecut, rip the NorkpiecedoNn henriddteand tl.im it to produce tNo uDriqhts 2"rvidc. TheD found the corners t; A Lr,radiusand round over the edgeswith a %round-oler bit on the router lable.THERr'\cs. Ne\t, the{ourrungs (O)arecut to size out of 1/l stock, 2,L"ri.ie bv12lr'long. Since hetop rungis positioDe{lf ight r f lont o l the sr . le o: rr , l n thr tophuik. I notched ur heback dse n. , u\ ircom for a hand,hokl.Df i l l two 1" d ja. holcs 8 apart andcentered , f rom the back edAe,seel'ig. 6. Then cutout the shaDe f the handhold, roundins the back cone$ of thisnotch o a ,L ' mdius.R{)rNDEDcts. l.inallll round the frontand backedgesofall four.Nngs iritl a rr',roundover bit. (Do not round the endsleale ih.n square.)lssErrsl,r'-Beiore nrul assembtl dritltwo l"'dia. couDterborcsollowedbr /1,i,shankholeson the outside aceofthe upights, ce.terd over the dado. aDd L1'tuom he front andback cdges, ecFiq. 5.Then place hc runss in the dadocs DdclampiheLadderrogetherso ilotholes anbe dnl le, l hruugh he ul r ' ight \dnd Intothe en.l. of the runs:.Arter the pi lnrhohs are t r i t ] td,apph.glue n the Jadoes rd \ r re\ rhe rnss rLplacewith No. 8 \ 1'l;' woodscrens,andcover the counterboresNith %' piugs.Hoolis.To attachthe addertoihe bed,made four hooks hat hook over rhe sideboards. lnst. r.ip four sD:cer bl.rcks oNidth lo match thc thick;ess of rhe si,tpboarrl,aDd o a lenethof 3", seeFiq. ?.To mount the blocks o the adder marktheposilionofthebottom blocks othe\rre5 up h orn he bottomendsofthe uDiichts.Thcn to set thc positionof rhe top block,measurc h distance fom the ropedseofthe bottomsideboar.do the op cdgeoittrctop sirleboald- lark off this same ;stanceon he ia.lderupig|ts from the bottomblock o rhe top block.Prc-drili the pilot holes on the spa&fblocks o match the holeson A ,1, , r6mendins piate. Also mar.kaDd pre{l llholes n the ladder'sup ghts. Then gtucandsoeN tbc spacerblocksaDd hc mend-trg plates o the laddertse. Fig. 7.

GUARD AILf 'ofsmal ler h i ldrent s a lsoagooddeatoaddasuardrajl. The one built isapiece l; l (oel , ; s idr b\ ;16 ong, ee ' rs.8.i t . muunted o th! be. l $ i rh t$. ur ldshts and t$o hooks(as or the ladder:).L'ut he uprights:l wide bt. lit,/j tongandglue and screN them to the guard rail.Then mount hooks h. sathe l:dder: cut the spacerblocks,pr..-diltthepiloi holes,ard rhenslueandscre\,th.spacerblocksand ,i1"\ tj mendinqDlatesto Lheedseofthe uDdshis.And th;i com,lletes the bunk beds.

5/4srock rr . rHEK) e,toNcIADDER PRIGHTS

ASSEMBtEDLADDERS|DE |EW

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WooDSMITH


20/24

Finishing:SurfacePrepgradq4BEFOREOU FINISH,THIS SWHERE O START

I have to admit that lhere are cer-tain parts of woodwo*ing that Ie4joy more than others. Getting atenon to fit soit slides into a nor-tise pedectly is definitely on theposiiive Bide.So s putting on andrubbing down the ffnal coat of ffn-ish. lt's sonewhere in betweenthesepeaks hat I get bogged downin som of the rnore nundanechores of woodworkins.Specifically,t's the processofmakingsue the su sce s rcady totake the finish. tt's at this pointthat aU he little problems and mis-takes that have been building upftom the beginning of the Fojectarc now staring me right in thefac. .. and I have the challengeof fixing them.It's alsost this stagofthe proj-ect that every woodworker's favo.-ite activity, begins ... sanding.(As I said, there are parts ofwoodworking that t enjoy nore

I find it ersiest to approach fin-ishing ike anJthing else n wood-working. It's a senes of steps toobtain he desiredresult. But it's

I'm really talking about tbreditrerent thinss here: dents, wherthe wood cetls are cnshed; chipswhere the wood cells are actuallyrnissing; and gouges and scntcheswherc the wood cells are severd.DEirIs. If a blunt objeci (like ahammer) strikes a pieceof wood,the wood cells are crushed and col'lapse nto iheirhollow centers.Al lthe cell walls arc still thre, butthey're compressed. hat's a dent.Sometimes a dent can be raisedback to it's onginal lvel by simplyapplyinga dmp of water to it. Thewater flows into the wood andBwells he walls back o their orig-inal shape. If the water needsalittle help n order to pe.etrate thcellwals, I mayprick the spot itha pin.OrI usea. iron. l take apieceofdatnp cloth or paper towI, put itover he dent, andhoidahotirontoit until the cloth ddes out. Theoncauses steam to penetrate thewood cells and s ell them back otheir oiginal shape. After it hasdried thoroughly, it can be sanded.In addition o najor dents, thealsoa seriesofdecisions.Onceyou nake acertain decision, o stain the project fo r

example, hat decisionatrectsmanyofthesteps that lead up to it. I try to develop apla for finishing at the start of aFojectand carry it through to th nd.UNDETCONSTRUCTION

While I'ln building a project a little voicBonewhere in the back of my head keepsasking me, "How will what you'rc doinsnow affct the appearance of the final fin-ish?" The voice gets louder at certainpoints n the consfuction procss.EDGE.GLUING.ne ofthe first times thishppeft is when I'm edge-gluing sevelalboards o form a wide panel. 'IVo things areimportant here: color and grair structllle.Toplay down a oint line, I t ry to select thepieces so the colors and grain blend intoeach other. It'E a matter of being caretulnow instead oftrying to selectively stain orbleach later to get a unifom appeannce.ExcDssGLUE. nother time I hear thatvoiceiswhen t comes ime to glue. Excessglu n a oirt will cause squeeze'out."ffthesebeads ndglobsaren'tremoved, hefinish, especiallystain, won't pentrateinto the wood. It e.ds up lookins like thepiecehas chickenpox.The problem is that some of these glue

spotsare difficult to see beforeyou startfinishing. I usually se the globs at thejoints, but alwaysnanageto miss a lishtfingerprint smear n the middleof a board.It seems s hough every woodworkerknow has a theory about when this slueshouldberenoved. Theseheories un allthe way fron inmdiaiely wiping the ex-cessglueaway with a wet rag to waitinguntil it gets completely ard and thenchippingst it with a chislor scrapiI asree with John Moser,Fesident ofWoodFinishingSupplyCompany, henheexplains:"The t)Tical rvhit and yello''giues go th.ough certain stagesas theydry First they skin over. If you try tormove heglueat this stage,youopenupa blister that just deposits resh slue alt"If you et it dry a little longer(usuallyaboutan hour),you cango over it with ascraper(I use a paint scraper) and theglobsactuallycomeotrin the; entirety. lfyouwait too ong, hey're ough ogetoft "'ooPsEs."There's one more thing youshouldwatch for whn a projct is undercorstruction.Around our shop we callthem oopses.These re he ittle dents,chips,gougs,and ssatches that ah,vayssem o happenwhenyou leastexpect

minorones hat collecton he surface ftheworkpiece ca. be assravatins. It seemslike somewhere duing a project I will setdowr a piecc of wood on top of a ch ip ordned glue glob on rny bench.This usuallycauses minor dent that has o be.aisd.Ken Bultch, a professional efinisherand o ner of The Hardwood Connection inDeKalb, llinois, tells an nt eresting storyabout some rninor de.ts he once had on asoject; "When I first got started I tooksome oards o a oca lcabinetshop o havethem resawn and run throush thei thick-nessplaner The dust cotlection ystemonthe planer asn't operating corectly andthe feed rollen smashedall the chips downmaking dnts all over ny nice cherry."I

thousht I could easily repair it byusing a belt sander to erase all the rvoodsurounding the dents until the suface gotdown to thir levl. When everJ'thins waslevI, I put a slass-smooth finish on it."It wasn't until a coupleyearc later thatdtuaster struck. Th seasonal chanses al-lowed nositure in the ail to slowly enterthe wood. The stress in the dents wasrelieved and son of the dents are nowraised spots. If I codd do it again, I wouldhave aised he dents first."cHrps. A chip or a splinter is diffre.tfrom a dent. ln this case he vood is actu-

20 WOODSMTTH


21/24

ally missinsand moistue rvon'thelp. ThefiISt thing I do when a splinter liesoffmywork (this seens to happen a lol whenusins a router) is gel dola on rny handsand kneesand staft lookine throush thesawdust.Sonehow t alwaysseemso finda resting spot under lhe very back ofthebench.When I rscue t, I puta little glueon it and clamp it back in place(usuallymasking tape works best to hold a smallsplinter while drying ). When it's dry I'musually abte o sand t smooth.corcEs. A gouge or scratch is sone-thing cornplelelydifferent. n this case hesood celis have been severed. Moisturcwon't help and here sn'ta chip o replace.I think you are facedwith thre choices{ith a gougeor missing chip: Fi$i, youcanset aside he pieceandstadover Wait,doyou mean hrow it in thescrapbinl Yes,that's often the best solution f it's in acdlical spot suchas a tabletop.Second, o! canlive withit. Especiallyifit \ a deepgouge hat can'tbe sandd utaDd ou don't want to replacehe piece.Inthis situation develop hephilosophythatit's part of the "characte/' or "patina" oftbe piece. always feel belter NhenI tellml,selfit might havehappened henit wasmovedupsiairs to the living room.Finallx you can try to repa; it. Un-fodunatelt', this sometimescreatesmoreproblems. f not done properly it makesthe gougeor chip mor prominent.

RPAIR5With ashallow gougeor scratch,I'moftenable to plane, scrape, or sand the sur-roundins $ood. On a flat sudace try toeven it out by feathering oul the sur,rounding area to create a shailorv depression This depressionhas o coler anarea3 to 4 inches n diameteroryou'rejust

ha.sfening a scratch nto what looks ikea arsdnt).On an edse feathera gouseor chip untii it blnds n wiih the edse.Ifthesemethods on'twork, the subjectalways uns to filling. At lvoods,iitn,wetryto keepouruseofputtiesand illrs o amininum. (I'm iaiking here about woodfrllerc, not pqsteuaod.filLeft that are usdto fill pores n open-grainedwoods.)Put-ties and fillers always look io me like aband'aidsolution o a mqjorproblem. Forexample, 'emight useputty to fillin alonAaj oini inewher t isn't soobvious.But wedon't use i in the middleof a tabletop opuTTrEs.There are a wide lariety ofplasticputlis,$aterputties, puttJ sticks,cabi.etmakerh waxes, and bun-in stickson hemarket. They'readvertised sbeingavailable n "an assortment of colors toThat 's aiways bothe.ed me. Eventhough a commonbrand plastic putty isavailable n both "Lisht Oak" and "Dark

Oak," I can't emembereler seeingactualoak woodonly available n ts'o colo^. It'savailable n an infinile number of .olors.And as natural oakages t darkens.Plasticwood illers don't. Their color may siarloul as a close match. but it rarely staysthat way. And then th patchstandsout.Color sn't the only problem. Some ill-ers are inconpatible rith vadous inishesor arc designedor otheruses.Waterputty(a powder mateiai) won't accept anystainsoroils whenil's dr} (It'susedwhenthe surfac s'ill be painted). Cabinet-maker'swax never gets compleielyhard.Putty sticks also don't get hard and arebest used for filiing nail holes aft./ fir-ishing. Burn in sticks (alsocailod shellacsticksand acquerslicks) are usuallyusedto repair damageon finished uniture.

pl,-{sTrc puTTrEs-Plastic putties (ofwhich here are many bnnds)have onebisadvantage ver theseother nllers:They'rcmade rom actualwood ibrsanda plastiebinder. The wood fibers allos's then toacceptstain and gives thm some of thequalities of wood and t|e plastic binderhastens he set-up time. (Out of all lhefillen$e've tried, the one likethebstiscaliedFIX WoodPatch. use t mosily forfilli:rgjoint ines hat aren'ias ight as heyrnight be. It alsoaccepts tainberter thanmost of the otbels.)MIxI\c YOURO\t:_.The main problemwith a1lofthese manufacluredproductssthat they'renot 100%wood.You're ntro,ducinsa forisr substancehat wo rks differenlly Uran the sood itsell t.or thisreasonsometimes 'll mix mx o$'n fiLlerwith fine sas'dustand a fervdrops of thefinish 'maoingto useon heprojeci. I usethe mi)ituremosl oftenon he endgrainof ajoint, suchasa boxjoint, where t canundark (and t wili) and won't be noticeable.One other thins. Ma.y peoplerecommendmixingglue with sas'dustasafiller.hav ound hat when glueisused, t effec-tively seals oul any frnishaltogethercrcating wlrite blolches.ush_cTHEwooD TTSELF.robably tlrebestsoiutionforbisdefectss to useapieceof the wood tseLf. { plug cut out of theboftom of the piece,or a pieceof leneercanoftenbepatchd rto a spot. t's a morepermanent solution and easier to colormaich and finish.

f llt MAnK5Themostcommo.p.oblem runintoin justabouteveryprojecl smill marks.These reuniformlyspaced idges hat run aooss hewidth ofplaned unber They'recausd ythe rotatjonofa planerorjointer's knivesFllflSHlilG flPS ... from urshop

. BL{CK BLOr\]SES,Black marks oftenappear at joint iines (paticulariy on oak)anlvhere glue cornes n coDtact with pipeclamps. These narks are the result of achemicatraction between the water in theglue, the iron jn the pipe clamps,and thetannin n the wood.ft prevent this, placstrips of waxed paper between the clanpsand the wood at the slue line.. coLoREDGLUE. dd a drop or two oftood color to slue so it showsuD better.This is parti;larly hlpful ro; findingsmea in placesahere you don't expect. PA|NT CRAPEnWhen edse slu insbodds, the slue squeeze-out ittrJ;ornilines can be eas ily removed with a paintscmper - the kind used to scrape paint offhouses. bousht one that has a removablblade so I could sharpen it - a dull blade"skates" over the surface.

. REMovrNc URNS.sing sandpaperto remove urnmarksh a lotof work.Ahand crapera3 x 5 piece fsteelsharp-ened rith a bur:r edge)dos he ob easily- especialyon ndgrain. Iffor no otlerreason,t's worth learninghow o sha4en3 scrapr o removebums,. woRKrNcN rNsrDEoRNESs, lengluingupa cabinet,don't useadarnpclothto removeglue tom an nside corner- itjust slnearc and creaiesa bigger mess.Instad, ait until thegluehas eachedpastestase about20 minutes), nd re-move t by runnins he comerof a handscraperlonghe nside onerofthejoint.. ANGLED ICIIT,To check for millrnarksand sandinsscratches,hold a me,chanic'sight at a ow angleover the wood.The ow-ansle ight will createa shadow neven ight scratches. use a clear(notfi.osted) ight bulb to create moreglare.

. cHEc{FoR MEARs,neof t}e mostdifficult problems o catch s a light gluesmea.r.t check or these, wipe or sprayafine rnist of naphthaover tle surface.(Naphthas a clear,non'stainins iquid hatwon't aise he glain.). TAcl(RAcs.Tb make your own tackras, use a piceof cheesecloth, cleanhandkerchief, r a wetl-washed iaper.Saturate he cloth with tupentine andwfing it out thoroughly.Apply streaksofvanish across he cloth, oll it up, andwins out compltely.Continueaddingvarnish until it's evenly distributed in theIag and th rag feels sticky, not gummy.Store n a sealedar or Ziplock bag so herag stays acky.Wlen using tack ag, hrhtll $'ipe heentire surfaceofall dust.Don't rubhard orthe vamish will be depositedon the work'pieceand nterfere with finishing.WOODSMITH z l


22/24

taking shalow "bites" out of the wood. Ifth knivesare dult or thefeed ate too ast,the dgs really standout.The first probten with mill marks isfindins then. Sometimeshe*e difEcultto see.But if I get my eyesdolvnat a verylow angle o the wood, I can usually seesome aint ridges.Once find them, the next problem srcmovinghem. If they'renot rcmoved,the second he finish soeson they'll stickout like turlows in a freshly plowed feld.)A couple ight passeswith a shary planeusuallydoest. I find t's easiestodo thison all the wood brlo'reassenbty.Occasiomlly 'll useapador belt sarder(wjth 100g"it paper) o rernovemill marks.But I ffnd t often akesa ot ofwork with apadsander and I alwaysget a little ner,vous about Cougingand rounding edgegwith a belt sander.Sometimesafter the project is as,sembled '11discover some mill marks Irnissed.n thisca8e useascraper.Thissa 3 x 5piceof steel with a cuttins burr onthe edse,se voodstti.it,No. 14.A scraperalsoworksquicke. han sandingor remov-ing machine urns causedby planers,routers,andsaws. A scraperworh best fit's held at an angle o the dges so t's notriding up and down with them- but it'scutting otr their tops.RrDcEs, NrpEs, rirDTEAR.ou[ In ad-dition to mill marks,planersard jointershavea way of doing other undesirablethinss to your wood. A small chip in t}leknivescan eavea ittle idge the length ofthe board. This can usualy be scrapedoffwith a handscrapenIf the planeror jointer isn't adjustedcorrctly,a snipe gouge) anbe aken outat the beginningor end of the boards.Onceagain, hk has o be enoved(orbetter yetcut off), or it will stand out like a sorethunb after ffnishing.And there'salways he possibilityofgr3in tear-out where the grain shifts di-rections suchas a.ound a knot). Thisusually has o be sandedout.

IANDINOWhen prparing this article il Beems stlough questionsabout sanding cameupthe rnost.Jerry TerHark on hestatr of thewood inishingprogramat DakotaCountyArea Vocational echnicalnstitute inMinnesota xplained, Without thepropersandingmany hings showuponce ouputyour stain and ffnish on. A goodsandinsjob will eithernake or break he piece."When oyoustartsandirs?fat allpos-sibl, 6elor?assembly . . but after plan-ing. I've always ound it asiest o use ahandplaneor scraper o st out all the milna*s andgenerally latten the s&face.But it'3 difficult to get a consistentsur-face all the way acrossa tabletop with ahandplaneor cabinetscraper That's vhen

sandpaper omes n. It providescon-sistency.Consistent ittle scratches.It helps o know a ittle about hediffer-ent tJTsof sandpaper ndgdts. (See heaticle onsandpapern Wood$mtrn o. 33.saNDrNcRourrNE. usuaily start sand-ing with aluminumoxidepaper(100grit)on an orbibl palm sandexFron there Ijump to 120, hen 180,and henstop.finish off by handsanding ith a block and180 gdt papermoving with the grain toremoveany ofthe slight srvirls caused ythe orbital actionofthepalmsanderThat'sas far as I go.Therearc sorne eoplewhogoup to 600grit, but I thinL it's ridiculouE.Sandingthis ffneburnishes he wood fbels and insthepors$'ith finedust. Stainswon't soakin evenly and oile won't penebate. Be,sides,who likes sandins ny nore tha.n

Ken Budch says, Thebiggestmistakewoodworkers xperiences when theyhave mill ma*s or defcts they grab220sdt sandpaperand wo* fol houls.Sometimes t Beemsbarbadc what youhav o do, but for the sakeof speed, oushouldso to the appropiate grit."Let's back up a bit with a fe specificquestionsabout sanding:Should.n't makeEMe s&nd. rith eaahgnt a n rd jump gits? 'lom Eck6te'n,^product developmnt ngineer or 3Msays, There'sreallyno rcason o goeveryg"it step. The reason here are so manygrits is sorneof thern are d$igred speci-ficaily for very special applications.Andlvhenyo start using hemyou wort seeany benefitgoingup every number"Will I seta,l,ifrerenI ookinsini:h bascnon hnufinz I Band,? osore extent this istrue, but it also depen& on the woodyou'reusing. Tomexplains, If I havenicstraisht gain oak and there aren't anyknote n it, I've stoppedas owasr20gritand staind t. Because he coarseg"ainnarks in oak are working with the grainand the sanding marks are perfectlyaligned. But closedsrair woods, ikemaple or clear pine, arc going to showeve.y scratchnark.So you're gotng owant to move up to the 220g"it Ians on

I e htre ana imz it's oka.uo so,nd,,crosstha grain? I\l\ the bookf' say rfl,ar sandacross he grain. But I thinl there'stwotimes t's okay. n the nitial stag$ of sand-ing when $'ant to renove a ot of$'ood, Iuseabelt sander ogoacrosshegrain. I'miust trying to quickly get the surface evel.Then I follow it up by sandingor hand-planingwith thesrain to removeh cross-grainscratches, nd proceedo sandwithfiner sdts.The other situationwhenyou'realmostforcd o sandacross he grain is at a ointwhe.e wopices f woodcome ogetheratan angle,suchas a miter or mil and stile.

On heseoints I ]vant he t]vopieceso belevel across heir faces.Sardingacross hejoint doesust that. In this case t's almostanecessityo sandacross he srain on onofthe piecesBincet's difficult to come o ahalt right at the joint line.ftm Eckstein explainshis nethod forsandingmiters, "I sand he cornersacouplegrits finer than I would normaly.Wlat happenss that I still sandacrosshegrain on one of the frane piecesbut I'msandingwith $rch a fineg"it that it doesnnake much difference."Shntld I mise thegnin ba lLvttitig thzubotl.and.then santl. t offi Weitins Ihefibers alows any cell wal13hat havebeenFesseddown or damased rorn sanding oswell and stand up. Tnenyoucan et it dryand rcrnove he whiskerc by sandingat aslight angle to the grain with 180grit

To be honest, I don't find it necessary.Theonly exception o this wouldbewhenplanon using a water-basedstain or dye.Ihen it's necessary r the stain or dywillraise the grain when t's applied.saNDrNcHrN"rs. couple inal thoughtson sandins. Wrlen usirs a pad (or palm)sander be sure that the sandpapercan'tmove n he botton ofthe pad.TomEck-steinexplains, Youonlygenerate omuchpower in the motor and if you let it slipbetween he padand he sandpaperou'regenerutiDgheat- not sawdust. It's justrubbing the back of the sandpaper."As the last step n sanding, goover heentire pmject and soften he sharp edgs(technicaly,he arises). I doD't ealtymund them, but just make one pass obreak hen with 120 rit paper. t removesthe knife-sharyedges,helpspreventsplin-tels, and gives a comfotable feel to thepiec. n addition. surface fnishesusuallywill rub risht off a sharpedge.

IINAT INSPECTIONThe ast bit of advicecanbe sumnedup none wo.d: patience.Don't .ush into applying he finish. makeone ast nspec-tion for any renaining Foblem areas.start by brushins otr the majority of thesanding dust and then lightly wipe thewholepiecedown with a tack rag.With aI the dust otr, anyfinal nistakesorprobiemsbecome pparenl Once gain,holding hepieceat a ow angle o the lighthelps makeany problemsstand out.If it looks okay, goaheadand fnish tright a*ay All kinds of things happen ounsealedwood sitting around our shop.Humidity alone can raise the gnin in acoupiedays.Not to nention everyonewhohas ust comeback from lunch at Mc-Donald's. t never fails . . . I just linishsandinsand they come n with th; oilyfingerc to chckout my sandingob.And then t's back o that enjoyable askof sardirg. Sometimes ou ust can't win.

22 WooDSMITH


23/24

Thlking JhqAN OPENFORUM ORCOMMENTS ND QUESTIONS

tHE ELUS|V!y. " RASAatBt th WoodsmithNo. 36,Joa mentianed hatltox ha.l beenhoking for a cdrbid.elipped ,haLIbeu'ing rabbetingbit to cltt aL" toidembbet. I tun itto thesameproblen, htltI'N coDte p ltith a solution.Wh&t I di(l uas purchasea Sears tA"carbide tipped rabbet bi t (#9GT25582,g1a..l9 .italog tice).I abo p\rchosed hearbot set #9GT25895,56.69 atalos tice).far the nbbetiry bit. This set includesa)/!-dio. bealiig for cuttins %" bide rab.bets,ard a %".di(r. beanig (md bushiils.lbr cutti,4 !/6" Dide rabbets.

%- FAiNI Ot OllCO BEAI|NG

//rA\\ P.oDucE,\\\3ry,/ !iJr^B*T

Ta ) educe he Ltidth of the ebbet at/i', Ipltrchasedo il " oLtside diametet beqi g(Foltiln #S1KDD) o.t a beorins suppltlhouse that.fitt oxer the Sears bushillgsupplied rith the ls"-dia. beaihs. ?hisco,tbitntion prcd.uces /" corbide.tippedball bearitry rabbetins bit.Earl Cla*HoU,ytd,Telds

We've ned to purclase beadnss or fab-betins bits several imes in the past.Theproblemwe kept running intowas indinsa bearins that had the coneci insidedia-mete! to fit the arbor on a rabbet bit.Finding a beari ng with a %" outsidedia-metr "'as easy,but trying to findone hatfit on a rabbet bit - any rabbet bit $'as.ext to :mpossible.Or so s thougbt.As soonas I read Earl's ida, calledalocal beadng supplier and sule aouslr,thev had he beaingthat fit overthe Sea$bushing alrhoush it was a differanlbrand a.d stock nunber (Delco77R4A).They said it's a twicat bearing, and if asupplier doesn't have on of these twobmnds, hey shouldbe able ocloss refer-ence their nunbers to a brand thy doAfter we purchasedhe beeing, every-lhing q'ent together pefectiy. And s'e'vebeencuttins %" rabbetsever since.

5ItOKING SAND!RS?I haE a qlrdtian abaut a potentialsofet!proble\t ilt na shop.Wheneur I'rn to dins a praiect in ,t!t basenentshop, thebasemeti becotnesilletl. Lrith Mr! fntesaixlitLg tlust. Recoxse mlt gas tuaterhcatet td.futnace are both contpletellletpded, I'n concened that the sdnditlqd|st noa be a.lire ol erplosia haza l.

RichardKdrcl i tzLiLbtnt, GeoryiaTo find an answer o youl question, con-tactd hreeexpe{s: our ocalnre marshal,our state OSHA office, andthe NationalIire ProtecrionAssociationNFPA).Fifsl of all, I foun{l out ther's a sisnificantdifferencebetweena dust fir andan explosion.A dust fire occurs s'henapaticle of dust comes n contact with anigniting source suchas an open lame). fthere'sa highenough oncentralionofdustparticles i. the air, every time a palticleburns, t ignites he otherpaticles aroundit. Thiscandevelop nto a chain eactionor flash ire that spreadsike a waveacross

A dust xplosion, on the other hand,resulrs fton] a large flash Iire that occuN ina tishtb nclosedarea. Howeler, for ane{plosion o occur, t lakes ust the ghtsetofconditionsand equence f events- tshouldbe ofsomecomfot to know hat ii'sall bui impossible o producea dust ex-plosion . a home workshop.Even a flash ire in a home shop s onlytheoreticailypossible,according o BobBenndeiti of the NFPA. It wouldalmosthale to b intentional like throsins abucket of sasdust in the air in front ofanopenflame loachievelheconcentrationofaibome dusLneeded o keep he chai.reaction n progress.Inahomc shop,leD durinsheavysand-ing conditions vith lilUe ventilation, theconcent.ationof sa.ding dust in the airjust isn't hish enough or a flash nre tooccur. And by simply providins a litrllentilation, there shouldn'tbe a probLem.

CT'RIINGCABIN!T OPsI brilt the hlanke( .lpst sno&, ;i wood-smithNo. J9ond tl lurDfd ant beaulititll!.Hau?.rer, 'xe rui itto a problem Whe lbrcuoht tt i| Jrot rLltgoiageshop t LateDecenfter, he top .uppcd (iont to back)aJtef onL!!o couple o.fdaals.1 rrls ./e|ds-tated nhen I sauj his ttfter all tna hqrcIuork hand cutti|s the dotietails.

I contacteda bcol cabinet slnp, andthe! erplained that the dr! air insideoutho8e uasn't oble to cnc hte insid.e hechest.This co eda naisture imbalancebetueen he nBid.e ond o tsideJncd of

On the aubide (top)foce. th lid is erpose.lo hedry inteior aiL did shnnllsasit dies out. Olt the i side face,u:hercthe,e 'si t t le i f an! . i rc lut ion of thedryilltenor air, t he tap rcmains basicall! thesa,e. The end rcs lt afthis nibalance isthat the tap curls up. ot c1!ps.The cabitpt shop talked to stlgg^tedattachill{tcleats an the ilside face of thelid to help hoLd tflat. Wha( do aotL hink,is this the onsuer to kecping he lid tlat?lfso, hon sha?kl he cleatt beattached oJoe CtL (i (SatLItSte.Moiie, Ontatia

This winter,we hadexactly hesameprob-lem.Slowlybut surely, he lop on hechestst3l1ed o cup.And before ong, here wasa ;'gap between he lid andth froni of

As you mentioned,oneway Lohelp pre-vent the top from cupping is to attachclealsaooss he n'idth ofthe lid. The hingtorememberwhenusingcleats s that theynust stitl allo\r Lhe top to expand andcontract,while at lhe same ime help keepthe top from warying.The rvav I do this is to cut an oversizedshankhole or the woods$ws.This allowsthe woodscrw oom o moyerith the lidas it expa.ds and contracts,while at ihesame ime keeping he cleat iAht againstlhe lid to resist warying.Although usins cleats i. ill helpprevenlsome of th cupping, his isn't a cure-ali.Undersevereconditions, he top may stillcup o a point- (After all, part ofthejoy ofworking with solid wood is that jt's stillalive nough o nove.)IVooDSIflTH 13


24/24

SourcesDOlt ctAott

Youcan order the screwhole buttons forihe don cradle rom:TrrEwooDwoRKERsrroRE,21801r-dusfial Bodevard,Rogers,MN 55374;(612) 2&4101Not: ?.50minimum ashoder. Catalog:2.00). .'?uHoleB ttons(8), Birch, v1, Order No. 81011,$1.25per50.w,vcn StaND

Youcanorder all ol the hardwareneededfor the TV/VCR stand rom the folowingTHEwooDwoRKERsroRE. addressabote). Dmwer sbnes (l set), 18" lo.s,OrderNo. D?fll, $13.25er ser.2"PlateCasrers, rderNo.Clt43 (black),$16.40coNsr{xarNE , 2050EastchesterRoad,Bronx, NY 10461; 00'223-8087Note:$?.50ninimuln order. Catalog:$1.00).GIa$ Door Hiwe (2 pair), Oder No.GH7030Black), 4.45per pail. SiA OtHendlesor GtaesDoors, 4),order No.CP701r(Bhck), 5.75 ezch. MryneticTolLch atch, double unit, Order No.ML772, 3.45 ach.We had a local slass supplier cut twopicesof vr" smokedglass o the conectsize or the dool.ls. he total bill $r0.7a.

IEO/BUNK IDSYou can order the hardware for the bedsand bunkbeds romlTrrEwooDwoRt{ERsroRD, address

For sinslebed: Thrcaded.ffierts (4\,yl6" #18,order No. D396r,$.32each.Fof bunk beds,Fot|| more Thrca1ledIns?rts (sameas specilied above).tltr,(knock-doun) itttrgs (4), D4r70,$.50Ior drawersand dra er guides:Sixn.orc Tbeaded.nserts (sameas specifiedzbo\er. 2' Plate dasters (2 sets), OrderNo. C1143black), 16.40 er setof four.Wepurchased he nacti,?e bolb (%,i'xly{") andDdrl.ers or the threaded nsertsand the six m?dtuj' straps (%" x 6")neededor the bunkbed addrand ail atalocal hardwarestore.Wediscoveredindesigs hebedshatthere s some adancen thedimensions ftwin size mattressesand springs. Moststate hat they will 'frt a 39"x 75"bed" butthe actual neasulenents are smallex Weuseda mattrssand 2" thick nattress-board rom Sears catalogno. 1A 70109N,$2799) hat actultLlymeasures 71/1'x 4"But the bed s desi$ed to hold anymat-tress 36" o 39"wide.

5UTfACE TIPATATIONWenentioned in the article that we likeFIX WoodPatch. W buy it locally sincethere arcn't anymail order soulces.Findthe ocationof thenearcstdealerby callinsthe Darworth Co.at 800-6247767.We alkedto a numberofhelpfinpeopleto getthe nfornation for this article. Special ha.ksso o KenBuftch,Fofessionalrefinisherand owner of The HardwoodConnection,a fine tool and wood store inDeKalb, llinois; Rick Stohr, banch rnan-ager of 3M'ssudacepreparationFoductsiftm Eckstein, 3M product devlopmentengineer;Jerry TerHark, on the staff ofthe wood inishingplogram at DakotaCounty Arca VocationalTechnical nsti-tute in Minnesotaand owner of a refin-ishing shop;and JohnMoser president ofWoodFinishing Supply Conpary.Jerry TerHark explainedhat theDCAVTI wood finhhing progran is theonlyFog"am of its kind n thecounhy. t'sa ten-month,accreditedprogram hattrains studentsof aI ages o becomeac-complishedfinishers/refinishe$.ormoreinformation about the program contactJerryat DCAVTI,1300 45th treetEast,Rosemount,MN 55068612)4n4362.John Moser has offercd o help anyWoodrmit, reade$ who want turther in-fomation aboutprepadng he surface,in-ishins, andBehlen fnishingFoducts. TheWood Finishing Supplycatalogbegins$'ith a thoroushdescdptionofhoit to pre-Da.rehe surfaceand use a variety of fin-ishins materials. Then there's a dsc.ip-tion explaininswhen, wher, andho$ touse eachof the pmducts hey carry' Thecataloq s available or $2.50 rom WoodFinishinsSupplyCo., 126?Mary Ddve,Macedon, Y 14502;315) 86-4517.

loox oN trNrsHlNGIn researchinghearticle npreparinshesurfee we oundan excellent ookaboulDreDarinshesurface.e6nishins, nd6n-istrlire.wood Finishinoond E,ftnhhinsby S. lV. Gibbiahas step-by-stepnstruc-tions on aI phasesof ffnishing.It's availablen hardcoveror S14.95ppd.(Oder No. I0LO4-CY)rom Wood-craft Supply Corp., 41 Atlantic Avenue,B o x 4 0 0 0 ,W o b u r n , M A 0 1 8 8 8 ;800-225-1153.ote:$10minimum derCatalog:$3.00 sedited on ffIst ordr).

wooDwotKrNG cluBsWe keepheadng rom woodlvorking lubsall ovr the country:WOODWORI(ERS'ASSOCIATTONOF TO.PEKA. A year and half ago Cleo Mc Donald

got a group of woodworkers ogether toshow hem his continuins shopproject, aone-qua*er scale ollectionof early Amer-ican tools. This a$ociation sprang ftonhispresentationand hasgrom to over 30members. f you are interested, contactCleoMcDonald, resident,421 W 42ndStret, Silver Lak, Kansas66539.SA}I DIECO FINE WOODWORIRII ASSOCI.arroN. This growing group on the westcoastmeets onceevery two months. Formore nfomation, contactChuckMee-chum,President, o. Box99656, anDi-ego,CA 921m.THE WOODWORXXRSCUILD OF CEO&CL{,INc.Cha es Boelkins, ecretary f thisgoup, recently called o get the namesofother woodworking orsanizationsn thesoutheasternUnited States.He explainedthey are plandng a major regional uliedsho* and would ike to contact nterestedclubs. lfyour cl b wants to get invotved,contacthim at the addrcssbelo*)The Guild has been n exisience or fiveyea$ and has over 100 members.Theyneet every month n Atlanta. Their proj-ect to donate oys to a children'shospitalwas recently featured on the tetevisionshorvPMMagazine. Find outmoreaboutthemby cont-actingha.les oelkins, O.Box 1113,Conyers, eorgia 0207.THE WOODWORKER.S'CUTLDFTHE LEX'INCTON(MA) ARIS AND CRAFTSSOCIETY.This guild has 50 nen and women whoseskills ranse from beginner o masterclaftsman.They provide a well-quippedshop or the use of their menbers. Newnembers are lvelcome.To learn moreabout he Guild, contact he MembrshipSecretary,130 Waltham Street, Lexing-ton,MA 02173.TERCwooDwoRKlnccLuB.This grouphas about250 membe$ and a very com-pletewoodworkinshop upportedy theTennesseeastmanCompany.hey areinvolved in communityprojects suchasToys or ftts ad buildingan outdoor it-ness rail. Get nore infomation by con-tactins Jack Bracy, President,TERCWoodworkingClub,PO. Box l9?2, Kings-port, TN 37662.NORTH TEX-{SWOODWORXERS' IJILD,(An update). n Woodst;ift No 35 welistd ihis group in the Dallas arca. Thecortact Dersonweprinted at that timehasmoved. he neir co;tact is GlodaJacobus,9500nwood Road,Datla., TX 75?20.SouthernIinois. A group of wood-worken is oreanizing n southen Illinoisthis spdng.They are ooking or belp,sug-sestions,ndmembers.finterested, on-aactTomHar ey,Rt. #1, Box 12A,CrealSprings,L 62922.

WOODSMITH

Documents

Woodsmith 038 - Mar-Apr 1985 - Bunk Beds