National Institute of Fashion Technology

HYDERABAD

Master of Fashion Management (2013-15)

Fashion Export Merchandising & Exim Documentation

WOOLEN FABRICS

Submitted by:

Santhi Biju

Shrey Gulati

Submitted to:

Dr. GHS Prasad

INDEX1

SL NO:

TOPIC PAGE NO:

1 INTRODUCTION 5

2 HISTORY OF WOOL 7

3 TYPES OF WOOL FABRIC 8

4 TYPES OF SHEEPS WOOL 11

5 WOOL GRADES 13

6 BEEFINTS OF WOOL 14

7 LATEST INNOVATIONS 20

8 LEAD TIME 28

9 USES OF WOOL 33

10 ECONOMIC SCENARIO 35

11 FACTS ABOUT WOOL 42

12 CONCLUSION 46

13 REFERNCES 47

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

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We take this opportunity to express our sincere feelings of gratitude to Dr. GHS Prasad for giving us an opportunity and valuable suggestions to undertake this Project Work on "Woolen fabrics".

We are also thankful to the NIFT Faculty for giving us this opportunity to learn as well as supporting us on every step. Last but not least I would like to express my heart full thanks to our friends for extending their great cooperation towards completion of our Project Work in time.

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METHEDOLOGYFollowing is the blue print of how the research was conducted, it includes:

1) Choosing the approach

2) Determining the types of data needed

3) Locating source of data

4) Choosing a method of data

Types of data used

To conduct the market research the data was collected by two source as:

Secondary data

Secondary data is one that already exist and is collected from published source

The source from which secondary data were collected are

1) Books

2) Internet

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INTRODUCTIONWool, animal fiber forming the protective covering, or fleece, of sheep or of other hairy mammals, such as goats and camels. Prehistoric man, clothing himself with sheepskins, eventually learned to make yarn and fabric from their fiber covering. Selective sheep breeding eliminated most of the long, coarse hairs forming a protective outer coat, leaving the insulating fleecy undercoat of soft, fine fiber.

Wool is mainly obtained by shearing fleece from living animals, but pelts of slaughtered sheep are sometimes treated to loosen the fiber, yielding an inferior type called pulled wool. Cleaning the fleece removes “wool grease,” the fatty substance purified to make lanolin, a by-product employed in cosmetics and ointments.

Wool fiber is composed of the animal protein keratin. Protein substances are more vulnerable to chemical damage and unfavorable environmental conditions than the cellulose

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material forming the plant fibres. Coarser than such textile fibres as cotton, linen, silk, and rayon, wool has diameters ranging from about 16 to 40 microns (a micron is about 0.00004 inch). Length is greatest for the coarsest fibers. Fine wools are about 1.5 to 3 inches (4 to 7.5 centimeters) long; extremely coarse fibres may be as much as 14 inches in length. Wool is characterized by waviness with up to 30 waves per inch (12 per centimeter) in fine fibres and 5 per inch (2 per centimeter) or less in coarser fibres. Color, usually whitish, may be brown or black, especially in coarse types, and coarse wools have higher luster than fine types.

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HISTORY OF WOOLWool, the new fiber just 10,000 years old. All through biblical times… in the long chronicles of Roman and Grecian history through the Dark Ages into the Renaissance to the era of discovery, exploration and settlement, sheep have performed their marvelous double duty of feeding and clothing mankind. Throughout history, the complexity and versatility of the unique woolen fiber has led to its amazingly broad range and multi-purpose usage in woolens. Woolen fibers accept and hold dyes of any spectrum, weave, knit, felt, etc. into an unlimited number of fabrics and offers warmth, cooling and tactile qualities unmatched in any other fiber.

Woolen fabrics will stand up to years of everyday family wear and tear and still bounce back. They will maintain a clean and as new appearance for much longer than other fibre type fabrics.

Upholstery is more exposed to greasy soiling because of the frequent handling it receives, especially on the arms of chairs. Wool’s ability to resist soiling and shed soil during cleaning allows wool fabrics to retain their appearance when others become matted and dirty.

Wool’s inherent resistance to flame and heat make it one of the safest of all upholstery fibres. And wool can readily absorb and dissipate the body’s perspiration, preventing the build-up of heat and dampness. Wool is the natural choice for soft furnishings because of its comfort and warmth, long-life performance ratings and safety factors.More than any other fabric on earth - wool combines luxury and fabric

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performance due to its appearance retention, tactile properties, drape, elasticity and wrinkle resistance.

Types of wool fabrics

Pile Fabrics

Wool pile upholstery fabrics are, in the majority of cases, woven.

Wool velour’s or velvets are generally used in public transport such as trains and long distance coaches or in theatres, cinemas and restaurants. The upright, resilient pile of from 2mm to 6mm (one twelfth to one quarter of an inch) gives excellent appearance retention, in the same way as a wool carpet pile does. The pile can be cut or loop, or a combination of the two. The terms moquette, fries, or epingle are sometime used to describe loop pile cloths.

Face yarns are always spun and the backing yarns are generally cotton or cotton/polyester.

The pile is created from warp threads fed either from a specially prepared roll or beam or from individual spools of yarn mounted in a creel behind the loom.

There are two basic techniques of manufacture - single plush and double plush. In single plush, one fabric is created and it is possible to have loop pile, cut pile or a combination of the two. In double plush, two cloths are woven face-to-face and slit as they leave the loom. Only cut pile is possible.

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Knitted Fabrics

A high-speed method of pile fabric production is via a warp pile knitting technique. The pile yarns are well anchored by the equivalent of a W interlacing and back coating is not required. Single and double raschel knitting machines exist. Double bar raschel allows two fabrics to be knitted face to face and slit.

Double bar raschel knitted fabrics have the natural stretch properties of knitted structures and this makes the cloths very suitable for highly contoured or moulded seating such as in automobiles.

There is an almost unlimited range of performance proven wool fabrics from which to make your choice.

Worsted Fabrics

Smooth and strong, fineness and strength with a smooth appearance.

Yarn spun by the worsted process has a characteristic smooth and even appearance. This is achieved by using fibres of a reasonably uniform length and fineness which the various manufacturing processes lay in a

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parallel fibre arrangement. Worsteds are mainly used where a smooth finish is required.

Woollen Fabrics

Luxuriously thick and bulky, woollen yarns are usually made from shorter wool fibres of varying lengths.

During the manufacturing processes the fibres are thoroughly intermingled which results in a bulky yarn with a fuzzy or rough appearance. Woollen spun yarns, and the cloths made from them, appear full handling and bulky.

TYPES OF WOOL AVAILABLE

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TYPES OF SHEEP’S WOOL

Shetland

Raised in the Shetland Islands off the northern coast of Scotland, Shetland sheep produce very fine, lustrous wool from the down of their soft undercoat.

Merino

Merino sheep are most often raised in the mountainous regions of Australia and New

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Zealand. Merino wool does not have the itchy feel of some wools, is odor absorbent, and provides high levels of UV protection.

Lamb’s wool

This is the highest quality of sheep’s wool on the market. Lambswool is taken from sheep at their first shearing (usually at around seven months old).

Loden Wool

Loden wool originated in the Tyrolean Alps in the 16th century and is still highly popular among sportsmen today. Loden’s luxurious nap is combed downward, creating a shingle effect that sheds water very effectively.

Mohair Wool

Mohair is taken from Mohair goat. It is not very soft and many people find it a very itchy fabric to wear directly next to the skin.

Angora Wool

Angora wool is made of an Angora rabbit hair. Its main quality is its fluffy surface texture and its soft touch. It is expensive, as it comes from a specific breed of rabbit. To improve fabric stability Angora is often blended with Nylon.

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Cashmere Wool

Cashmere is soft and luxurious fabric. The fibers that are used to make cashmere come from specific areas of the fleece of a cashmere goat, and that is why it is so expensive.

Alpaca Wool

It is made from the hair of Peruvian alpacas, but it also also can come from similar fibers of mohair, Icelandic sheep or even high-quality English wool. Alpaca fleece is a lustrous, silky, soft and therefore luxurious natural fiber. It is warmer than usual wool, not prickly, and bears no lanolin, and therefore – hypoallergenic.

Melton Wool

It’s durable, wears well, and is wind resistant.

WOOL GRADESThe type or grade of wool is selected to suit the needs of the product being made, with appropriate fiber length, fineness, and other properties to ensure the best end result.

Virgin Wool

Taken from a lamb’s first shearing, also virgin wool can refer to wool that has never been used, processed, or woven before.

Boiled Wool

Created through a washing process applied to a knitted wool to make a dense, durable, and water resistant fabric.

Worsted Wool

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Manufactured in Worsted, England since the eighteenth century. Wool fibers are spun into compact, smoothly twisted yarn before weaving or knitting.

Flannel, Fleece, Gabardine, and Tweed

Popular fabrics that are made from sheep’s wool or a sheep’s wool blend.

Other Types of Wool

Alpaca, Mohair, Cashmere, Camel Hair, Bison, Possum, Qiviut (Musk Ox)

BENEFITS OF WOOL

Comfort

Merino has numerous natural attributes that make it one of the most comfortable of fabrics to wear.

Fashion isn’t just about how you look but how you feel, and Merino has numerous natural attributes that make it one of the most comfortable of fabrics to wear. Its superfine fibres feel like silk next to the skin. It also has the ability to respond to changes in, and help regulate body temperature – keeping you warm when it’s cold and absorbing moisture and releasing it into the air so that when you’re hot from exertion it will help cool you down.

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Winter or summer, Merino keeps you feeling great.

Odor Control

There are a number of aspects of the physical and chemical structure of Merino that make it naturally more resistant to odors than other textiles, especially synthetics.

Moisture Transport – While sweat itself has no odor, if it remains on the skin in time bacteria develop and create unpleasant body odors. Merino reduces the opportunity for odors to generate because it is more efficient than other textiles at absorbing sweat and evaporating it into the air.

No Microbial attraction – Studies have shown that bacteria are more attracted to the smooth, positively charged surface of a synthetic fiber than the scaly surface of a Merino fiber which carries no charge.

Moisture Absorption – The Merino has a much greater capacity than other fibers to absorb moisture. In fact, it can absorb 35% of its own weight in liquid. The moisture is bound within the structure, and so is not available to microbes, which are unable to penetrate the scaly surface of the fiber.

Glass Transition – In water and conditions of high humidity, Merino passes through what is termed a glass transition at which point it dramatically increases its rate of absorption and dispersion.

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Trapping Odors – The rate of diffusion of small and large molecules into the fiber increases and it is able to absorb odors faster. When the temperature drops, and the fiber once again falls below the glass transition, the odors are trapped within the structure even if the moisture evaporates. Later, during laundering, the garment again passes through the glass transition point and the odors are carried out of the structure by the water. Synthetics are not able to benefit from this same effect because they do not pass through glass transition during normal wear.

Breathability

In extreme exertion, you need a garment that ‘breathes’, which means it must be able to absorb perspiration and release it into the air. No fabric does that quite like Merino.

The hydrophilic core of the Merino fibre has an amazing capacity to absorb liquid – up to 35% of its own weight – so it’s better than synthetics at removing sweat from the skin, moving it away, and releasing it as vapour.

Fiber Absorbency

Wool is a year-round fiber. Wool can easily absorb up to 30 percent of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy. The ability of wool to absorb moisture makes it comfortable in both warm and cold conditions. By absorbing perspiration, wool enhances the body’s own cooling system and helps keep the skin dry. This characteristic makes wool a versatile all-season fabric.

Wool is a hygroscopic fiber; it takes up moisture in vapor form. Tiny pores in the epicuticle make the fiber semi-permeable, allowing vapor to pass through to the heart of the fiber. Wool can easily absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy.

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The capacity to absorb makes wool a “temperature regulator” because it can protect the body in both cold and warm conditions. Wool always absorbs moisture from the atmosphere of greater humidity and releases it to the drier environment as it creates a balance in moisture conditions. This characteristic makes wool a versatile all-season fabric.

Wool absorbs perspiration; thus it keeps a layer of dry air next to the skin which, in turn, helps to hold in body heat. As wool absorbs atmospheric moisture, the hydrogen bond of water is broken and chemically reacts with molecules of the wool to generate heat.

Wool garments are therefore regarded as good protection against hypothermia… a condition that occurs when sudden drastic lowering of body temperature causes the body to lose heat faster than it can be produced.

The same principle of moisture contact on the skin acts to protect against hot weather as well. The body cools itself naturally with the evaporation of perspiration. Wool expedites this process by absorbing perspiration and keeping the same dry air next to the skin. This is why wool clothing is worn throughout the desert regions of the world where it’s hot during the day and cool at night.

Natural

In environmentally conscious times, wools sustainable and biodegradable properties are highly marketable.

Refined over time wool fibre is inherently natural, biodegradable and sustainable.

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Wool is a natural fibre. Wool has evolved over time to become one of the most effective natural forms of all-weather protection known to man.

Biodegradable

When a natural wool fibre is disposed of it takes only a few years to decompose. Most synthetics on the other hand, are extremely slow to degrade.

Sustainable

Every year sheep produce a new fleece, making Merino wool a renewable fibre source. Wool growers actively work to improve efficiency and care for natural resources, endeavoring to make the wool industry sustainable for future generations.

Resistance to Flame

Because wool contains moisture in every fiber, it resists flame without chemical treatment. Instead of burning freely when touched by flame, wool chars and stops burning when it is removed from the source of the flame. Wool is self-extinguishing; it will not support combustion. This is why wool blankets are recommended for use in extinguishing small fires. More importantly, when wool burns it doesn’t melt and stick to the skin. That’s why some fire-fighters’ uniforms are made from wool and why it’s an excellent fabric for bedding.

Durability and Resilience

Each wool fiber is a molecular coil spring making the fiber remarkably elastic. Nature has folded the chemical polypeptide chains back upon themselves in such a way that they act like a coiled spring which elongates when it is extended and retracts when it is released. This molecular crimp, along with the 3-dimensional fiber, allows wool fibers

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to be stretched up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry, and still bounce back to their original shape when stress is released. But be careful: When wool is wet the fibers are weaker. Recovery from stress takes place faster when the fiber is in a humid environment; that’s why steaming a wool garment will freshen the fabric and why a steam iron is recommended for pressing wool.

The flexibility of the wool fiber also makes it more durable. A wool fiber can be bent back on itself more than 20,000 times without breaking, compared to about 3,000 times for cotton and 2,000 times for silk. The natural elasticity of wool also makes woolen fabrics resistant to tearing. In addition, the outer skin of the wool fiber acts as a protective film, giving wool cloth improved resistance to abrasion.

Dyeability

Wool absorbs many different dyes deeply, uniformly and directly without the use of other chemicals. Because of this ability, wool is known for the beautiful, rich colors that can be achieved.

UV Protection

Testing of various textiles shows that wool has a natural UV protection factor of 30+ in more than 70% of cases, much higher than most synthetics and cotton. For harsh summers, merino activewear helps protect against the sun’s potentially deadly rays.

Australian Merino has excellent natural handle. Its renowned drape is due to the fineness of the fibres as well as the natural elasticity and resilience of Merino.

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LATEST INNOVATIONS

Merino wool is an ideal fibre for warmer climates, transitional seasons and global travel, and so The Wool Mark Company has taken this opportunity to support the trade in its sales and promotion of lightweight wool, and in doing so is challenge the misconceptions of the fibre.

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Cool Wool was a successful campaign for The Wool mark Company when it was run in the 1980s. Since then we have seen many advances in technology and manufacturers are now able to produce much finer lightweight cloths that weren’t possible nearly 30 years ago

In February 2012 Cool Wool was re-launched initially to the trade, as a program designed to grow demand in markets with high temperature climates such as the Gulf States, India and Turkey with demand from the manufacturing pipeline and trade – it quickly followed with developments in Europe, Japan, Korea, China and India

In recognition of the advancements in the production of lightweight fabric the original Cool Wool specification was modified to be more relevant for today’s market needs and demands and this modern incarnation of the Cool Wool campaign takes the concept even further for the 21st century with even lighter weight fabrics and yarns. Cool Wool garments are manufactured from lightweight Merino wool fabrics with a maximum weight of 190 g/m² and a maximum mean wool fibre diameter of 22.5 micron.

Working closely with the manufacturing pipeline, through targeted marketing campaigns, in-store activities, promotions and events, The Wool mark Company seeks to educate the consumer about wool’s natural ability to regulate temperature keeping the wearer looking elegant and cool.

Cool Wool possesses a number of natural qualities, including:21

Breathability

Wool fibres can absorb large quantities of moisture vapour and then transfer it through evaporation into the air, keeping the skin fresher and drier for a longer time.

Temperature regulation

Wool’s natural crimp creates a lot of very small insulating air pockets, which keeps the wearer cool in the warmer months and warm in cooler climates.

Odour resistance

Wool’s breathability helps to reduce sweat and odour, keeping the wearer’s skin drier and cleaner; and the fibre’s complex chemical structure also helps to control any unpleasant odour molecules by locking them away and only releasing them upon washing.

Softness and fineness

Today Merino wool achieves incredibly high standards of fineness and softness, making it one of the most comfortable and performing fibres for sportswear, including next-to-skin garments.

Cool Wool is a sub-brand of the Woolmark and Woolmark Blend programs. The use of the Cool Wool branding is available

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to all manufacturers that hold licenses for the Woolmark and/or Woolmark Blend marks subject to passing Cool Wool fabric and/or garment specifications. Brands and retailers are able to use the Cool Wool branding on their product if they source from a licensed manufacturer or indeed are licensed themselves subject to the terms and conditions of their license agreement.

Benefits of becoming a Woolmark licensee can be found in the licensing section of woolmark.com. If you don’t hold a Woolmark license and would like to find out more about Cool Wool please contact your local Woolmark office.

Cool Wool Guild members:

Alfred Brown, UK

Vitale Barberis Canonico, Italy

Bower Roebuck, UK

Bulmer and Lumb Group, UK

Cerruti, Italy

Charles Clayton, UK

Dormeuil, UK

Ermengildo Zegna, Italy

Joseph H. Clissold, UK

Hield Brothers, UK

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Holland & Sherry, UK

Ipekis, Turkey

John Foster, UK

Johnstons of Elgin, UK

Nanshan Group, China

Reda, Italy

Nikke, Japan

Raymond, India

Reid & Taylor, UK

Royal Ruyi, China

Savile Clifford, UK

Sunshine, China

Tallia di Delfino, Italy

William Halstead, UK

KNITWEAR INNOVATIONS

New innovations pave the way forward for the Merino industry, allowing it to be a dynamic one that is forever changing. Innovations can be introduced into Merino wool at any stage in

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the manufacturing process – reaffirming Merino wool as versatile, cutting edge and a clever alternative to other fibres.

Technology allowing garments to look good and feel better promote the positive aspects of woolen products and therefore increase consumer demand for these products.

From allowing knitted products to feel as smooth as silk or promoting them as UV-protectant, having easy-to-care for garments and ones which revitalize the wearer thanks to aromatherapy, innovations in knitwear have come a long way since the first knitted sweater hit the runways.

During recent years The Woolmark Company and its partners have developed a host of Merino wool innovations, making Merino knitwear a stellar choice for all those involved in the production process.

Merino Touch

Merino Touch is a versatile collection of super-soft Merino wool knit fabrics and garments designed to provide a touch of luxury in an affordable garment.

The collection demonstrates that the Merino fibre, on its own and when blended with other noble fibres, can create classic garments that look and feel luxurious.

Mercerised Merino Soft Classic Merino

Merino Care

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Having garments which are easy to care for is a huge selling point and Merino Care for knitted garments has been designed to keep up with the demands of today’s hectic lifestyle and keep garments looking ‘as new’. Easy-to-care-for items are also environmentally friendly, helping to reduce the carbon footprint by using less chemicals and water.

Moisture Management Merino Total Easy Care Easy-Iron Merino UV-Control Merino Aromatherapy Merino Merino Visual

Consumers generally buy garments which appeal to them aesthetically and Merino Visual for knitwear allows for this. Innovations allow for an extra dimension, colour scheme and/or unique characters to a defined range.

Merino React 3-D Merino Vintage Merino Sculpture Merino Spectrum Merino 3-D Merino Colour Merino Devoré Knitted Wovens

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WOVEN INNOVATIONS

New innovations pave the way forward for the Merino industry, allowing it to be a dynamic one that is forever changing. Innovations can be introduced into Merino wool at any stage in the manufacturing process - reaffirming Merino wool as versatile, cutting edge and a clever alternative to other fibres.

Merino Touch

A new Merino Touch woven coating fabric made from mercerized Merino yarns has been woven in such a way as to create cashmere like softness and silk like sheen - providing a touch of luxury in an affordable garment.

Mercerized Merino Merino Care

Garments which are easy to care for will no doubt be a draw card for consumers worldwide and innovative techniques allow for garments to be cared for in the comfort of your own home. Traditionally, many woven products were dry-clean only, but this is now a thing of the past. Merino Care has been designed for today's busy lifestyle and by using less energy, chemicals and water it helps to reduce the carbon footprint.

Merino Fresh UV-Control Merino Quick-dry Merino Machine washable

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Merino Visual

Merino Visual in woven wear allows for versatile garments and casual comfort. Innovations allow for fabrics and garments to create texture and aesthetics unique to wool.

Crinkle Merino Merino Retract (Elastane) Vintage Merino Garment wash Lead times for product

LEAD TIMES

Different Wool fabrics have different lead times for production as well as delivery

1. Woolen fabrics made of agave plant take 2-4 weeks of lead time for production as per order.

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2. Woolen Fabrics knitted out of wood (sisal) fibre takes 3-4 weeks of Lead Time.

3. Whereas, Jute and woolen blends fabric takes 2-4 weeks for production.

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Pure Wool fabrics1. Stylish Knits of pure wool and wool linen blends take

about 6-8 weeks of lead time as per production.

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2. When various other blends like steel wool and coil knits are ordered, a minimum lead time of 7-9 weeks has to be considered as per particular production

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3. Felt and cable wool knitted fabrics, high on demand take about 6-8 weeks of lead times per production order.

4. Flint and forster styles take about 7 weeks of lead times

Taylor madeVarious wool fabrics are Taylor made to order with no specific lead times. As per volume, the time for production and delivery

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dates are decided upon and forwarded. These styles are comparatively expensive than other fabrics. These fabrics are used for clothing for higher designations in an office. E.g.: Chairman Suiting’s by Raymond

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USES OF WOOL

Wool is a multifunctional fiber with a range of diameters that make it suitable for clothing, household fabrics and technical textiles.

Its ability to absorb and release moisture makes woolen garments comfortable as well as warm. Two thirds of wool is used in the manufacture of garments, including sweaters, dresses, coats, suits and "active sportswear". Blended with other natural or synthetic fibers, wool adds drape and crease resistance.

Industrial uses of wool include sheets of bonded coarse wool used for;

Thermal and acoustic insulation in home construction Pads for soaking up oil spills. Structural insulation Baseball winding Ballet-shoe toe padding

In addition to clothing, wool has been used for:

Blankets Horse rug Saddle cloths Carpeting Felt Mattresses Upholstery. PillowsWool felt covers piano hammers, and it is used to absorb odors and noise in heavy machinery and stereo speakers. Ancient Greeks lined their helmets with felt, and Roman legionnaires used breastplates made of wool felt.

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Wool has also been traditionally used to cover cloth diapers. Wool fiber exteriors are hydrophobic (repel water) and the interior of the wool fiber is hygroscopic (attracts water); this makes a wool garment able to cover a wet diaper while inhibiting wicking, so outer garments remain dry. Wool felted and treated with lanolin is water resistant, air permeable, and slightly antibacterial, so it resists the buildup of odor. Some modern cloth diapers use felted wool fabric for covers, and there are several modern commercial knitting patterns for wool diaper covers.

Initial studies of woolen underwear have found it prevented heat and sweat rashes because it more readily absorbs the moisture than other fibers.

Merino wool has been used in baby sleep products such as swaddle baby wrap blankets and infant sleeping bags.

LIMITATIONS

The strong alkalis found in laundry soaps and detergents cause wool fibers to lose their soft luster.

Moths will eat through other types of fabric and sometimes even plastic to get to wool.

Never bleach wool fabrics. A small amount of bleach on wool will make its fibers stiff and yellow. Large amounts will dissolve the fiber.

Never put wool clothing in the dryer. The combination of heat, friction and pressure will cause shrinkage.

Wool fabrics can be damaged by excessive and direct heat. Always use steam when pressing wool.

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ECONOMIC SCENARIO

Wool is produced in about 100 countries from a global flock of more than one billion head of sheep. Major producers are Australia, Argentina, China, India, the Islamic Republic of Iran, New Zealand, Russia, South Africa, United Kingdom and Uruguay. Depending on the country and region, wool producers range from small farmers to large scale commercial grazing operations.

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Domestic scenario

India’s name has always been synonymous with its Cotton Textile Industry. But few know about the deep roots of thriving Woolen Industry way back from the era of Indian Royalty and Mugal Emperors who have been patrons of Exquisite work of arts,from finely embroidered, breathtaking jamavar shawls, to pure wool product, garments and carpets.

India is the seventh-largest producer of wool and accounts for nearly 2 per cent of total world production. The global textile and clothing trade was estimated to reach US$ 691 billion in 2011, representing a growth rate of 5.45 per cent for the period 2006 to 2011.

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India has the third largest sheep population in the world with 71 million sheep. The annual wool production is in the range of 43-46 million kg.The wool textile industry in India is poised to grow at a healthy rate. A higher rate of technology penetration into this industry, coupled with government incentives and other capacity-building initiatives have resulted in increased exports, besides stimulating domestic consumption.

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OVER VIEW OF WOOLEN INDUSTRY

IMPORTS

Import of raw wool from Australia, New Zealand and many other countries are as under:

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RAW WOOL IMPORTS FROM MAJOR COUNTRIES

SN Country Qty. in tones (2012-13)

1 Australia 13935

2 Pakistan 9702

3 New Zealand 5266

4 Syria 4205

6 Turkey 2373

EXPORT

India exports various woolen products like tops, yarn, fabrics, Ready Made Garments and Carpets. Carpet enjoys maximum share of total export. The aggregate export of woolen items from wool tops to

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finished products like textiles, clothing, blankets and carpets is currently estimated around Rs. 7600 Crs.

Annual Plan 2013-14

For the financial year 2013-14, Rs. 16 Crore has allocated under Plan fund to CWDB for implementation of its different schemes in all wool producing States and following achievements were made upto Dec., 2013:

Benefited 6 lakh sheep of Himachal Pradesh and Maharashtra States under Sheep & Wool Improvement Scheme (SWIS) to improve quality and quantity of indigenous wool.

Provided Feed Supplement to 1.15 lakh eligible sheep & Pashmina goats of

Ladakh region (Leh & Kargil districts) during severe/adverse period of cold.

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Strengthened two Sheep Breeding Farms in U.P. State. for improving good quality breedable rams.

Provided support for marketing of raw wool in Andhra Pradesh and Leh district of Ladakh region to ensure remunerative returns to wool growers for their produce (wool).

Covered 800 families under Pashmina Wool Development Scheme of Ladakh.

Sanctioned 3 projects under Angora Wool Development Scheme to cover 1000 angora rabbits of H.P. State.Sanctioned Rs. 6 crore to Wool Research Association, Thane to upgrade three

Wool Testing Laboratories of CWDB & WRA at Bikaner, Kullu and Thane.

Provided training to 90 women under weaving of woollen handloom products at Weaving & Designing Training Centre, Kullu.Organized 8 Woollen Expos (Exhibition-cum-sale of woollen products) at different cities for providing support for marketing of woolen products to woollen artisans/weavers engaged in manufacturing of woollen products.Covered 30,519 shepherds under Sheep Breeders Insurance Scheme and 32,633 sheep under Sheep Insurance Scheme.

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Wool is not only REUSABLE but also BIODEGRADABLE.

• Bedouins (desert dwellers) have worn sheep wool and sheep wool fabric blend for centuries. Hmm... I guess they have known about the secrets of wool for a very long time.

• Sheep Wool has an incredible natural UV PROTECTION built right in. The same cannot be said for manmade fabrics.

• Wool is composed of same protein that makes up the outer protective layer of your skin. Wool works in total HARMONY with your body's own protection mechanisms.

• Wool is also naturally NON-ALLERGENIC. Allergic reactions to wool are either due to lanolin, or the many harsh and toxic chemicals that go into the treatment, and finishing of conventional wool garments and bedding.

• Wool is naturally mildew and mold resistant because it is a natural moisture repellent.

• Sheep wool has other uses, such as in the building of houses.

Wool has natural:

• Fire resistance

• sound proofing

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• Climate control, and

• Energy efficiency*

*Sheep Wool Fabric if used to replace insulation will pay back its energy costs more than 5 times sooner (only 15kw of energy are used to produce 1m³).

Lanolin comes from wool. Most lanolin used by humans comes from domestic sheep. Chemically akin to wax, it can be used as a skin ointment or waterproofing wax, and is sometimes used in products such as lip balm and shoe polish. Also called: wool wax, wool fat, anhydrous wool fat, ‘Adeps Lanae’, or wool grease. Our Sheepskin and Sheep’s Wool Products are lanolin-free!

Wool is naturally anti-microbial. Bacteria are attracted to smooth surfaces that are positively charged and wool is coarse and neutrally charged. The benefit of this is that it does not need to be washed daily (unless of course a little poo escapes the confines of your diaper).

Wool is water repellent and therefore is mildew resistant. The fibers of wool have a waxy coating on it that repels any kind of liquid. It also has the ability to absorb 30% of its weight in liquid. The repelling nature of wool has makes it mildew resistant. Plus you have to remember that wool is naturally anti-microbial which keeps those pesky mildew guys away.

Wool is stain resistant. The waxy coating we discussed earlier also keeps stains at bay.

Wool is long lasting. Wool can bend back on itself 20,000 times without breaking. In comparison

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cotton fibers can bend back only 3,200 times which explains why the cotton t-shirts I have from high school are showing their age!

Wool is a 100 % natural fibre existing in about 8000 qualities. Apparels from Devold® consist of long fibered merino wool, which provides exceptionally soft and comfortable garments. Each merino wool fibre is very curly and elastic, resulting in durable and long-lasting textiles. This elasticity is also the reason why wool garments do not crumple as easily as garments made from flax or cotton.

Insulation and temperature regulation

Garments made from merino wool insulate extremely well. The merino fibre is highly crimped; its fibre structure creates millions of tiny air pockets in the fabric, which lock in body heat, creating a buffer against the cold.

Merino wool works naturally with your body’s heating and cooling system. It regulates temperature by absorbing and releasing moisture. When conditions are cold and damp, merino wool absorbs moisture and triggers a process where the fabric generates heat (called “heat of sorption”). In warm conditions, your merino garment will regulate your temperature through the process of “cooling by evaporation”. This is the same principle as our body uses; it produces sweat to cool us down.

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Merino wool makes for easy-care garments that almost “look after themselves”. The garments absorb any moisture and let it evaporate, and they have a permanent natural resistance to odour. This means that merino wool garments can be used comfortably for days without smelling. However, for maximum enjoyment of your wool clothing, remember that merino wool is a living material. If you allow your wool garment to rest a day between each use, its wool fibres will regain their natural elasticity and resilience. That is why Devold® recommends that you have at least two sets of merino wool underwear.

To preserve the wonderful natural properties of the merino fibre, and to keep your wool underwear in the best possible condition, it is important to wash the garment correctly. Many detergents contain enzymes and bleaching agents that are harmful to wool fibres. It is therefore vital that you wash your clothes from Devold® only with a detergent designed specifically for wool care. Wool detergents never contain enzymes or bleach, and they have a pH-neutral formulation that makes them ideal for wool garments.

Remember that wool should never be soaked, and it will be destroyed by chlorine treatment!

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CONCLUSIONFuture:

For over 100 years, wool was the product that earned the most money for Australia. "Riding the sheep's back" was the wool term people used to use, which meant wool supported the country. Whilst the Wool Industry no longer supports Australia, it is still a very important industry.

Artificial Substitutes:

Today not all articles are made from 100% wool. Some things are made from synthetic substitutes which look like wool but are not as prickly as pure wool. These substitutes are a cheaper alternative. Some products have a percentage of wool as well as a synthetic fibre. Researchers are trying to work out ways to make wool less prickly by removing the coarse fibres or covering them up.

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REFERENCES

http://www.rochedalss.eq.edu.au/wool.htm http://returningking.com/new/?p=439 http://woolboard.nic.in/ http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/

123456789/24499/1/IJFTR%2031(1)%20125-133.pdf

http://www.nonwovens-innovation.com/ http://www.dvc500.com/industrial-fabrics.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wool http://www.sierratradingpost.com/lp2/wool-

guide/?showlocalization=True http://www.woolsports.com/wool-info/types-of-

wool/ http://www.woolmark.com/types-of-wool-fabrics http://www.ask.com/question/different-types-of-

wool http://www.wool.com/ http://www.wool.com/Content/en-GB/

mi_wk_33_2014.pdf http://www.wool.com/mp/market-intelligence/

weekly-price-reports

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