Workshop Presentation 1

8/2/2019 Workshop Presentation 1

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Advancements in Textiles Series 2012EDPIU, MINTEX --- SFDAC

AdvancedDyeing & PrintingTechniques

Muhammad Hanif MemonSynthetic Fiber Development and Application CenterMinistry of Textile Industry, Government of Pakistan


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The Textile Industry, including the dyeing sector,

has undergone major changes,

Which are centered on

The introduction of new fibers

(and dyes for their coloration)

New machinery for more efficient processing

More severe demands from the consumer

Legislation controlling environmental issues


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Two primary forces have driven recent

technologies in Coloration

The Environment

andThe Economy

i.e.,

ENVIRO-ECONOMICS


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The textile companies will be competing

more and more on a global basis

The successful must deliver quality products,

on time, and maintain the highest standards

Developments in machinery

have a critical part to play,

butwithout state-of-art-chemical technology

even the most sophisticated machinery

will not provide optimum performance


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Companies wishing to improve their

environmental performance through technology

may

Control established production processes by

treating waste emissions,

in order to limit the impact on the environment

OR

Adopt clean technologies that incorporate

environmental considerations into their design,

to avoid or reduce adverse impact on the

environment


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There is now a global perspective for

the textile and apparel industries,

which has been brought about by

economic growth,

development of communication

technologiesand

the unprecedented ability to transport

people and goods throughout the world


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Automatic Control is used on both batch and continuous processes,

giving marked improvements in productivity and savings in resources.

Automatic Control results into

Increased production and improved quality, because machine will be

running at the set optimum conditions.

Savings in plant costs, because the dyeing process, equipment and

ancillary processes will have been designed to operate under automatic

control

Savings in raw materials arising from processes being carried out underoptimum conditions

Improved working conditions

Improved plant management


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An automatically controlled plant

provides more information of higherquality on process conditions, leading

to potential improvements in process

operation

The danger here is thatThe information is not understood or it

cannot be acted upon


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S o f t f l o

W i n c h

K n i t t e d

J i g g e r

W o v e n

P a c k a g e C a b i n

F i b r e / Y

E x h a u s

C o l d P a d ( C P B )

P a d - J i g P a d - D r y -

W o v e n /

S e m i - C o n

P a d - D r y - P

( P D P S )

W o v e n

C o n t i n u

D y e i n g

D i r e c t

D i s c h a r

R e s i s t

F l a t b e d / R o l

P r i n t i n

A p p l i c a t


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Stringent Quality requirements led by export market

Higher pressure on Price Trend towards high economy

Conservation of Energy / Utility Cost

Shift of manufacturing from Europe to Asia

Growing commoditization of Products

Modernization, Automation & Re-structuring activities

Growing importance of Brands and Retailers

Fast changing consumer tastes

Newer fibres and blends

Better RFT and Reproducibility

Shade accuracy and quick delivery

Increase in the technical su ort re uirements b the user

Changing Scenario

Textile Industry


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Reduced Costs

Less Dyestuff Less Chemical

Less Water Less Energy Reduced Stock Costs

Higher Productivity

Shorter cycles RFT Performance Robustness

Product Integrity

Shade Reproducibility Color Fastness Eco-compliance


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Exhaust

Hot13.0%

Exhaust

Warm

40.0%

Pad -

Batch

15.0%Continuous

11.0%

Printing

21.0%


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Blended

42.0%

Cotton

43.5%

Synthetic

12.5%

Silk

1.5%

Wool

0.5%


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Disperse

32.7%

Reactive

29.4%

Acid

12.4%

Direct

4.6%

Others*

14.9%

Vat

6.0%


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E-Control System

Digital Ink Jet Printing

RFT Approach

Dyeing in Ultra Low Liquor ratio

Dyeing of Newer fibers & Blends (Lycra, Lyocell, bamboo etc.)

Rapid dyeing Disperse dye

One Bath Continuous dyeing of Polyester / Cellulose blends

(without R.C.)

Pad OX Process

Reactive dyeing Perceptible shift from Hot dyeing to Warm dyeing

process

Replacement of Vat dyes with Reactive dyes - achievement of Light

and Wash fastness properties.

Recent Applications / Concepts


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E-ControlProcess One Step, Simple & Economical Continuous process

No unproductive batching sequence

Ideal for short lot dyeing

Effective Wash-off

A wide variety of fabric can be dyed

Rapid shade matching in laboratory

Energy efficient

Performance

High Productivity due to short process Environment friendly as no salt, urea & silicate are used

Soft handle of fabric due to mild fixation conditions

Migration is minimised by rapid fixation & humidity control

No crushing of pile fabrics.

Improved penetration of different fabrics - Presence of Humidity at

high temp. Very good Lab- to -Bulk & Bulk- to-Bulk reproducibility.


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RFT ApproachImportant FactorsImportant Factors

Raw material: Substrate

Dyestuffs

Chemicals

Water

Preparation of Substrate Process Conditions: Machine parameters

Liquor ratio Time / Temperature

profile

Dye bath pH

Concentrations of

Chemicals


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THE BENEFITS OF

FINANCIAL

Lower Costs per Batch

Increased Output

Improved Profit margin

NON FINANCIAL

Better Customer Service

Improved Quality

Reduced Effluent load


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19

RFT Approach

NON RFTNON RFT Impact on Process Costs Impact on Process Costs

RFT 1 Add 2 Adds BlackOverdye

Unlevel Off Shade& Unlevel

0

150

100

50

200

Re

lativeBatc

hCost

100

118

134141

180200

Dye Energy Water Chemicals Labour Fixed Drying


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RFT Approach

NON RFTNON RFT Impact on Productivity Impact on Productivity

100% RFT90% RFT80% RFT70% RFT60% RFT0

75

50

25

100

%M

achine

Time

% PRODUCTIVE TIME % REPROCESSING TIME

20


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Dye HouseManagementKey FactorsKey Factors Cost Reduction

RFT Approach

Technology Up-gradation

Improved quality

Reduced cycle times

Reduced lead time for delivery

Perfect Repeatability

Reliable results satisfying critical

fastness requirements

Maximum machine flexibility

International competitiveness

Much reduced environmental im act


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From a practical point of view

Textile printing is the process which

incorporates artistic design,engineering and chemical technology

to produce unique patterns which can

then be accurately repeated on largevolumes of fabric


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Most common Printing techniques

Screen Printing, both rotary and

flat bed

Transfer Printing

The newer technique

Digital Printing


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Rotary

Screen

58.0%

Flat Bed

28.0%

Transfer

5.0%

Intaglio

3.0%

Hand

Screen

6.0%


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The trends in textile printing include:

Continued improvement of

microprocessor control systems forprinting machines of all types

including flat-bed screen, rotary

screen, transfer printing calendersand digital ink-jet printers


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Refinements in Screen Printing

Increased printing output

Minimization of set-up timesHigher print pattern control

Minimization of downtime for pattern

changeover and machinery cleaning


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Improvement in mechanical design

Hydraulic drives replaced with electronicdrive systems

results into increased printing speeds with

subsequent reduced maintenance costs

Both rotary and flat-bed printing machines

with highly compact print tables in order to

conserve expensive processing floor

spaces


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Refinements in

Color mixing and dispensing systems

Print paste recovery and reuse

Improved systems for filmless screen engraving

Which produce excellent image resolution with

increased accuracy

Also engrave screens at a higher productivityrate, thus reducing the overall cost of the

engraving process.


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Heat Or Sublimation Transfer Printing:-

Clean & environmentally safe.

The only by product is paper.

Perfect medium for today's

market demand (apparel).

Fes samples can be

produced at small scale with

good results at lesser cost.


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Mechanism:-

Sublimation paper & special dyesublimation inks are used.

Temperature & heat is provided.

Transfer inks are passed over to

the printable material.

The inks (sublimation) permeate

the coating of the material.

Excellent fastness.


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Why Ink-jet? Simple technology and high quality

Existing colorants can be used [Reactive / Disperse / Acid / Pigment]

Constantly improving technology [Robustness, Speed (>100 m

2

/hr.),Quality (1440 dpi)]

Printing of innovative & unique designs

No screens / Unlimited colours in a design

Outstanding colour gamut

Different types of SubstratesTrend is towards digital photography (Home / Photolabs]

Lower start-up costs & shorter production times

Shorter time from design to print

Supply chain advantages

More design options

Reactive dyes in ink-jet printingPurified MCTs

Inks specially designed for existing ink jet head technology

Covalent bond gives excellent wash fastness


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DR AM b R i i


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DReAM by Reggiani

Two unique innovationsFirst, it combines the high technology of Reggiani swell proven textile substrate conveying systems,

holding the fabric in position very accurately, with

Aprion s Magic six color inkjet heads.

Second, it use completely new printing inks developed

by Ciba Specialty Chemicals. These inks include

reactive dyes, acid dyes, disperse dyes and pigments.

This machine reportedly achieves printing speed of up

to 150 square meters per hour, with designs suitable

for both apparel and home furnishing.


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DuPonts Artistri machine is built by Toshin-Kogyo of Japan, and the two companiescelebrated the shipment of their50th machine as a milestone. The marriage of

Toshin-Kogyos experience and expertise in the

design of textileprinting equipment with DuPonts leadershipposition in chemistry and inkjet technology hasallowed the companies to co-operatively

develop a uniquely capable and robust system,said Shiro Ichinose, president of Toshin-Kogyo.

The system includes DuPonts Artistri inks for

silk, polyester, wool, cotton and nylon/Lycra;


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The DuPont Artisri


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The Isis competes head-to-head with rotary screen

printing, printing 20 linear meters a minute (1.6m wide)

at 1440dpi, using either reactive or pigment inks.

Crucially, the machine will use standard screen

printing inks, vastly reducing the cost per meter,

with pigments this will be around 1 per linear meter;a little more for reactive. The figure includes capital

costs, and no pretreatment is required.

Based on three color ways per design, the print costfor runs of less than 1,000 meters will be equal

to or less than rotary screen printing. However, for

longer runs (e.g., 1,500m) will be slightly higher.


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There is a strong correlation, among these

machines, between production capacity and

price, making it hard to pick a winner.

Artistri, for example, with a typical printing speed of

30m2/hour, comes at a capital cost of around 150,000;

The DReAM does 150m2/hour but costs 750,000.

The expensive special inks often required also have to

be accounted into the calculation.

The most original machine of them all is the Isis (price

tag 3 million), from Dutch firm The Isis Osiris.

The Mona Lisa machine starting at 250 000 uses


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The Mona Lisa machine, starting at 250,000, uses

Epson printhead technology, but its unique configuration

of 24 print heads produces greater speed than the

familiar sampling printers. The 12 Mona Lisa so fardelivered have gone mainly to the Como district of Italy

and are being used on silk, cellulose and

polyamide/elastomer, in conjunction with the Genesta

family of inks from For.Tex.

According to Robustelli, print speeds in the first year

since launch have increased from 78m2/hour to

120m2/hour, without loss of quality. Intermediate printing

resolutions of 450dpi and 630dpi have been added to

the standard 360-540-720dpi.


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The Mona Lisa by Robustelli


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Another change is the ability to adjust the gap between

the heads and the fabric during printing, without stopping

the printing itself. It is very likely that during mass

production the fabric to be printed is uneven (seams,

frays or thickness unevenness), says Robustelli. It is

therefore essential to have the possibility to change thegap between the heads and the fabric without stopping

printing, then go back to the original gap. Other recent

improvements include the drying and printed-fabric

collection systems. Infrared radiators are now combinedwith a special ventilation system, and continuous

collection of the fabric, with start-stop photocells, has

been added as standard.


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Recently added features include an

advanced feeding system that allows for

the use of wider varieties of fabrics, and anew selvage protection mechanism that

improves printing reliability.

DuPont Ink Jet has opened its DuPont

Artistri Technology Center (ATC) in

Cavenago, (Milan) Italy, providing

demonstrations, technology training and

customer service.


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Another wide-format printer with interesting characteristics is the

VirtuMT, built by the Swiss Spuhl AG, a subsidiary of AmericasLeggett & Platt. This super wide machine offers a single 2.5m

printing width, or even a 3.5m version that will print 2x1.5m widths.

Speed is claimed to be up to 125m2/hour, or 35m2/hour

(2-pass/600 dpi, 6 colours).

The machine is already established in the graphics market, while

dye-sublimation printing on textiles was introduced early in 2003

and direct printing with UV-curing pigment inks was launched at

ITMA. However, the problem was close to a solution and new inks

were expected to be available late this year or early next. The Virtu

range starts at around 320,000.


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The Virtu


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Nano Art Nanotechnology Coatings Textile

Paper, claiming this to be the first and only

product of its type in the world specificallyintended for computer-generated, fine-art

inkjet printing, and made from nano-coated

polyester, cotton and blends


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The further one looks into the future, the more exciting the

possibilities become. Researchers at the University of Arizona

talk about light-emitting textile curtains and window blinds based

on ultra-thin organic films that either emit light,

or alternatively, act as solar cells, collecting light to generate

electricity.

Ghassan E. Jabbour, associate research professor of optical

sciences and his group, along with European partners, are

developing nanometre-thick organic films for printing on paper,

plastic and textiles. His laboratory claims to be the first to printorganic light-emitting devices on large areas of plastic and

textile by screen printing and has also developed a unique

technique for inkjet printing these layers on to textiles.


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In terms of more conventional textile printing and

coloration, nano-powders are likely to have animportant impact on future ink technology and all major

producers are believed to have active research

programs in this area.

For example, in Israel, which is a leading developer

and producer of inkjet technology, a consortium of 14

companies and 12 academic research groups, Nano

Functional Materials (NFM), has been formed to seek

new ways of fabricating and using nano-particles in

industrial processes and products.


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SciTex Vision, developer of the unique Aprion piezo drop-on-

demand technology used by the Reggiani DReAM printer, isanother member of the consortium and is seeking to develop a

new generation of inks based on nanotechnology of pigments

and polymers to achieve high performance inks and films

through ultra-high jetting performance (drop velocity,

directionality, jetting stability), conductivity, stabilization and

better color gamut.

Nanotechnology also offers new routes to achieving effects such

as metallic or opalescent prints that are difficult or expensiveusing existing inkjet techniques, while printed nano-films can

produce iridescent effects on textiles.


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Advancements in Textiles Series 2012EDPIU, MINTEX --- SFDAC AdvancedDyeing &

Printing

Documents

Workshop Presentation 1