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through them to reach more suitablehabitat. I had always associated lynx withsnowy boreal forests and had never pic-tured them living in an arid, Mediter-ranean climate that swelters in the sum-mer and floods during winter rains. Yetthe lynx in Dofiana prosper in the Cotodel Rey scrub, where the extensive coverincludes dense bushes, shrubs, taraje trees,and a kind of tree called lentiscus; bothtrees provide favored lynx hiding places.The most common bush is the jaguarzo,or Halimium, which sports pale leaves andhuge yellow flowers. Among the tallertrees are the frasino, a type of ash; and thealcornoque, or cork oak, whose bark isused to cork the fine wines of Andalusia.

While Coto del Rey makes up onlyabout 230 square miles of parkland, theIberian lynx probably reaches its greatestconcentration here. When I visited dur-ing the fall, the area contained about sev-enteen animals-three pairs of breedingadults, the year's young, and some bornthe year before. It is possible to encounterlynx frequently here, fostering the false, if

delightful, illusion that these rare animalsare common.

Female lynx divide their habitat intoterritories that may remain stable for years.Palomares has painstakingly mapped thefeline geography of Donana and foundthat the average female lynx's territory isabout 3.5 square miles. Both males and fe-males are usually solitary and maintaintheir separate territories, which overlapand connect in complex ways. A femalewill mate with whichever male has wonthe adjacent territory, and a male willmate with as many females as he can. InDonana, since each male's range overlapswith that of only one female, the mating

Mediterranean scrub and that was oncethe favorite hunting grounds of Spanishnobles and kings. Now totaling about125,000 acres, Donana was set aside thirtyyears ago as a national park on the south-ern coast of Spain, just east of its borderwith Portugal. Protecting the estuary ofthe Guadalquivir River, Donana is anaustere flarland of marshes and brush, ofsandy soil and dry scrublands; its highestpeaks are sand dunes along the Arlanticcoast. The park provides a protected habi-tat for a huge number of nesting and mi-grating bird species. With such residentsas flamingos and mongooses, it seems likea chunk of Africa tucked away just acrossthe Strait of Gibraltar. In Donana, thenoon sun is searing, and the sunsets are

spectacular.The park lynx are divided into two

groups, totaling about fifty animals. Onegroup lives in the Coto del Rey scrub,and the other, smaller one inhabits themarshes nearer the sea. Lynx avoid thepine and eucalyptus plantations outsidethe park, except when they must travel

Wildlife biologists weigh andmeasure a lynx cub, top, in SpainsDoiiana l"lational Park. Scientiststrack the cats with antennaetllounted on their vehicles, above,then home in on the lynx withbinoculars. At left, a young lynxthat has just been radio-collaredsprints across the scrnbland to rejoinits siblings.

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water, sometimes drown in artesian wells.Gloria had two kittens in 1994, a male

and a female; both found their fates en-twined with cats from Escarlata's litter.Gloria's young male wandered widely justoutside the park for three years before hefound a territory-the area left vacantwhen his contemporary, Escarlata's off-spring, died. In the fall of 1995 and intothe winter of 1996, Palomares and his as-sistants tracked Gloria's female cub Nati,which had paired up with Barbaro, thesole surviving male from Escarlata's 1994litter. Moving through a forest of pinesthat parallels the Atlantic, the two animalsleft Donana and headed toward the in-

dustrial town of Huelva, along the Por-tuguese border, where the forest givesway to a long stretch of commercialfarms. The area outside the park had oncebeen good lynx habitat, but now the catsencountered mile upon mile of straw-berry fields. The rows of berries, coveredwith long sheets of black plastic, resem-bled waves on a shimmering plastic sea.

Barbaro and Nati setded at the edge ofthe fields in a tangle of arroyos-whichcan be serviceable habitat. AlthoughPalomares thought the two were gettingready to form a pair and mate, he sud-denly was unable to track Nati. She haddisappeared and was almost certainly

males whose mortality rate was evenhigher than the norm. By the summer of1997, two had disappeared, one waskilled by a car, and another was shot by ahunter. Only one is presumed still alive.

Over the last few decades, the lynx hasbecome a symbol of national pride formany Spaniards, yet local rural people stillhunt this animal. Lynx also succumb totraps set for foxes and rabbits or are killedin highway accidents. Young lynx, seeking

At the moment of capture, a rabbit thrasheshelplessly in the grip of a lynxs jaws, below.The abundant rabbits are also prey for foxes,genets, eagles, mongooses, and local villagers.

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My frequent encounterswidI lynx in dIe Coto delRey fostered dIe false ifdelightful illusion thatdIese rare aluma1s arecommon.

Travel NotesDonana National Park, one of the largest

nature reserves in Europe, encompasses

marshlands, dunes, lagoons, scrub land, and

Mediterraneanforest within its 125,000

acres. Donana~ fauna includes the red deel;

Iberian eagle, and flamingo. The park is a

stopover for hundreds of thousands of birds

that migrate between Europe and Africa,

arriving in autumn and win tel: For

information on guided tours, contact the

Marismas del Rocio cooperative, tel: (959)

430432.

officials to develop a coordinated strategyfor saving the lynx. Such efforts mayprove to be too little too late. As Palo-mares admitted in an unguarded moment,"My study may be one of the few doneon how a species in a fragmented popula-tion goes extinct."

No one knows whether Barbaro hasfound a new mate to replace Nati. My lastglimpse of him was memorable. Afterwatching me carefully for a long mo-ment, he turned slowly and walked into athicket of wild rose bushes. Just before hevanished, his short tail with the black tiplingered for a moment, like an exclama-tion point. 0

member of the European Union, Spain isrequired to prepare a new plan to protectthe lynx and has spent $3 million on var-ious projects since 1995. Recently, how-ever, the Spanish Ministry of Environ-ment called a meeting of biologists and