Zambian Traveller 81

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C M Y CM MY CY CMY K

FQM hosts Panama MPs

Kwambula ignites holisticskills training in NorthWest

A GLIMPSE INTO KML RESETTLEMENT

Your personal copy to take away

ISSUE 81NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013

36 Falling for a Festival

42 The Cutty Sark

Features4-6 A glimpse into KML resettlement

8-10 Tribute to Nelson Mandela - “The Black Pimpernel”

12-15 Strolling Down London’s Piccadilly

18-19 Mopani’s Synclinorium Shaft Nears Completion

20-23 Mopani’s 2013 Activities In Pictures

26-28 It’s a Scam

29 A Visitor’s Guide to Kafue National Park, Zambia

30-32 Key West And The Coral Islands

34-35 Kwambula ignites holistic skills training in NorthWest

36-39 Falling For A Festival

40 Southern Cross Motors Launches New Range Of Fuso Trucks In Zambia

42-43 The Cutty Sark – the classic clipper of yesteryear

44 FQM’s Sentinel wows Panama

45 Curbing heart diseases:FQM for healthy lifestyles

46 Crop Circles

Regulars2-3 Map of Zambia

16 Sudoku, Crossword & Quiz

48 Crossword & Quiz answers – Kids Corner

CoverA Glimpse into KML Resettlement

Editor Sean Potter Advertising: Sean Potter Helen Walden George Makulu

Administration: Val Potter

Distribution: Helen Walden George Makulu Moses Chirwe

Design & Layouts: Stan Potter

Contributors:Anthea RowanAnthony DaltonCephas SinyangweChikwe ChilubaDan BoylanDavis MulengaDick JonesFirst Quantum MineralsGethsemane MwizabiGeorge MakuluGodfrey MsiskaHumphrey LombeHumphrey NkondeKansanshi Mining plcKate NivisonKelvin MukupaKonkola Copper MinesLechwe SchoolMopani MiningRoy KausaShapi ShachindaTom CockremT.W. JenkinsWilliam Osborn Zambian Ornithological Society

REpubLiC of South AfRiCASean Potter38 Mandy Road, Reuven 2091, Johannesburg, RSA P.O. Box 82117, Southdale 2135, RSATel: +27 (0) 83 522 0144 Fax: +27 (0) 86 517 5972e-mail: [email protected]

ZAmbiA:Copperbelt:Helen WaldenP.O. Box 22255, Kitwe, Zambia.Tel: +260 (0) 21 2 226 378Cell: +260 (0) 977 746 177E-mail: [email protected]:George MakuluP.O. Box 34537, Lusaka, Zambia.Cell: +260 (0) 976 949 219E-mail: [email protected]

The views expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher, who takes no responsibility for the accuracy or reliability of the information supplied with particular reference to financial data, trading prices and advice given.No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the Copyright owner.

published and copyright by Logivest 42 (pty) Ltd

Website:www.thezambiantraveller.com

November/December 2013Issue No. 81

CONTENTSNelson Mandela8

12 Piccadilly , London

It’s a Scam26

30 Key West and the Coral Islands

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FQM hosts Panama MPs

Kwambula ignites holisticskills training in NorthWest

A GLIMPSE INTO KML RESETTLEMENT

Your personal copy to take away

ISSUE 81NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013

46 Crop Circles

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ZAMBIA

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Livingstone

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Mununga

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Kawombwa

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Kaputa

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Kasaba Bay

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Lubambe

Entry Requirements: Foreign Nationals require entry visas, which are available at the point of entry.

Vaccinations: Yellow Fever (Compulsory) and Cholera. Anti-malaria precautions are highly recommended.

Foreign Currency: There are no restrictions on the importation of foreign currency into Zambia. The only requirement is that all cash and travellers cheques should be declared through customs at point of entry.

Capital: Lusaka

Driving: Left hand side of the road. Legal driving age is 18 years old. All foreigners and visitors are required to carry an international drivers licence.

Voltage: 240 volts (square pin plugs).

Weight and Measures: Metric system.

Time: Difference 2 hours ahead of GMT.

International dialling code: (+260), Lusaka 21 (0) 1, Ndola and the Copperbelt 21 (0) 2, Livingstone 21 (0) 3.

Airport Departure Tax: International ZMW158.40, Internal ZMW58.00 including Security Tax.

Population: Zambia has a population of approximately 13 million (Census 2010)

Official Language: English

Currency: Kwacha (ZMW)

Major Traditional Exports: Copper and cobalt.

Non-Traditional exports: Primary agricultural and horticultural products, gemstones, timber, electricity, cement and textiles.

Major Imports: Crude oil, chemicals and machinery, iron, steel and manufactured goods.

The Zambian Traveller is distributed to tourists, business and professional people within Zambia, surrounding states and from overseas. It is available on board both domestic and international chartered fl ights from Zambia. Presented to both business and tourist visitors to the Republic of Zambia through hotels, guest houses, embassies, government departments, major companies, ZNTB offices in Lusaka, Pretoria, New York and London. Also distributed via tourist shops and outlets, travel agents and tour operators within the region. Bulk copies are supplied to various mines on the Copperbelt and advertisers for own circulation. Available on board Luxury coaches to and from Zambia.

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ZT - KML Resettlement 10/4/13 12:06 PM Page 2

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Livestock rates, KML will offer monetary compensationto the 1,400 farmers for their crops and the otheramount for the labour used to clear land, besidesallowing them to harvest their crops, but they will notbe compensated for the land because it is traditional.

Besides the aforementioned budget, there is a further$13 million construction phase contributions, whichinclude the Timber Recovery Project (saw mill).

The project is purely sustainability-based to avoidburning a precious resource (trees) and rather trygenerating jobs and value from it for Zambians, MrLappeman said. He said the Timber Recovery Projectwas currently running at a loss because it was notoperating on a commercial basis, precisely because ofthe ban on timber exports and has a lifespan of fiveyears, but it will be prolonged once the Enterprise andIntrepid mines are operational.

KML is also encouraging farmers to plant exotic andindigenous trees, with the initial target being 36 farmerslast year and is increasing the number to 200 this year.Other key projects under the KML Resettlement ActionPlan (RAP) is the construction of a rural health centre (which is at 98 per cent completion rate) and staffaccommodation, increasing church buildings by 50 percent, and replacing old houses with new ones whosequality rate stands at 129 per cent.

Edith Kashinka, a beneficiary in the SouthernResettlement Area, ideal for farming because of its soilfertility, was grateful to KML for constructing her abetter and bigger two-roomed house but complainedthat it was not spacious enough to accommodate allher household goods.

Before KML came on the scene, Ms Kashinka was livingin a 10 square-metre mud and grass-thatched two-roomed house which the mine upgraded to 19m�f0with iron sheets and bricks.

The Northern Resettlement Area was the preferencefor the displaced families who wanted to engage inentrepreneurship. The mine is building ventilated pitlatrines for each household, providing wood-chip rocketstove to every household as well as improving accessto water by reducing the distance from 1,000 to 500metres through drilling of pulley wells and hand pumps.

KML has engaged the Zambia Forestry College to train

bee-keepers on improved bee-keeping methods, besidespartnering with the Netherlands DevelopmentOrganization (SNV) with funding from the EuropeanUnion (EU) to provide bee-keeping equipment toenhance their production aimed at exporting to EUmember states.

The mine will construct open-air markets in resettlementareas and in the proposed Kalumbila town to ensuredisplaced communities raise funds.

Livestock farmers have not been left out in that theyhave agreed to compensation offers, among thembeing replacement of livestock kraal fences suitablefor communal grazing lands. After engaging the Ministryof Agriculture and Livestock, KML has also agreed toa six-month livestock treatment programme for internaland external parasites.

The Trident Project has not spared Senior Chief Muselewho is similarly benefitting from the KML RAP.

FQM is also collaborating with Zesco to construct a600-kilometre power line worth more than $200 millionfrom Lusaka West through Mumbwa to KML, thenLumwana and Kansanshi mines which will help inpower stability on the Copperbelt as well as electrifyingsome rural households.

For the more than 2,000 Zambians KML has employedcomprising 1,400 from North-Western Province (65per cent of the displaced households have one or morerelatives contributing to that number), the mine hasplans of giving the province a facelift through theproposed Kalumbila town project.

The major highlight of this ambitious programme,which ZEMA and Solwezi Council have approved, isKML’s blueprint to build 10,000 houses to be sold toits local workers at subsidised rates. In the first phasecurrently underway, the mine is building 600 housingunits. A police station, airport, clinic, trust school anda multi-facility economic zone (MFEZ) are among othermajor highlights of the town.

Despite the town being approved by ZEMA and SolweziCouncil, the Government is yet to offer KML the landstitle deed. Mr Lappeman had this to say on the housingproject: On the affordable houses that are beingconstructed, the plan is that these are sold to ouremployees. So the idea there is for the employees toactually own the houses so that the town is sustainableafter the life of the mine. If the mine held the ownershipover those houses, on de-commissioning it will basicallybecome a ghost suburb of town, which is not whatwe want.

Mr Pascall said statistics indicated that people whoowned houses were more likely to educate their childrenor start businesses using such infrastructure as collateralto obtain loans from financial institutions.

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On the Timber Recovery Project, Mr Lappemansaid in an interview that $6 million was injectedinto the project currently employing 150Zambians. The Timber Recovery Project cameinto being two years ago to avoid the wastageof trees which are cut down to pave the wayfor the Trident Project.


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KML’s K10 billion Trident Project encompassing threemines namely, Sentinel, Enterprise and Intrepid, raiseddust which is yet to settle among concerned parties.

The Sentinel Project worth US$2 billion currently underconstruction will be dealing in low-grade copper whilethe Enterprise will focus on nickel. Exploration toestablish the mineral resource at Intrepid continues.

The controversy stems from the displacement the TridentProject will cause in its operational area, 150 kilometreswest of Solwezi, off the T5 Road to Mwinilunga.

The Trident Project has displaced 570 families representing1,400 farmers with crops on 787 hectares of traditionalland, 105 livestock farmers, 100 bee keepers, more than200 graves, 18 water sources, seven churches, oneschool, three sports fields and one market. Theconstruction of Chisola Dam is arguably what sparkedthe worst controversy in the Trident Project. It is the landaround the Chisola River where the 105 livestock farmersused to take their cattle for grazing.

However, that will not be the case owing to theconstruction of the dam, hence the outcry.

The purpose of damming the Chisola River is to divertit as it flows through the Enterprise mine deposit aswell as use huge quantities of water to the Sentinelprocessing plant using a pipeline that will be installed.

Musangejhi River is another water source which hasbeen affected by the Trident Project and thus has tobe dammed because Musangejhi Dam is the maindiversion dam for Sentinel Mine.

KML has since restocked Musangejhi Dam with 7,000tilapia fingerlings for the benefit of the Kankonjhicommunity which has been affected by the project.

The controversial Chisola Dam will also be restockedwith fish. In May this year, the Zambia EnvironmentalManagement Agency (ZEMA)’s protection order haltedthe construction of Chisola Dam. The move to blockthe construction of the dam prompted FQM in Juneto announce that it would lay off 500 workers as thecompany could not sustain the high workforce whileit waited for ZEMA to lift the protection order.

As expected, the Government intervened in the matter,resulting in FQM rescinding its decision to lay off theworkers.

The Government has since allowed KML to go aheadwith the construction of Chisola Dam, much to thedisgust of a consortium of non-governmentalorganizations (NGO’s), among other concerned citizens.On September 5 and 6, 2013, journalists from the printand electronic media toured KML to check on theprogress recorded so far, a follow-up tour to that whichwas undertaken a fortnight earlier.

KML assistant general manager Tristan Pascall and hisresettlement and community affairs manager GarthLappeman were on hand to avail journalists thenecessary information related to the Trident Project.Mr Lappeman told journalists that despite the countrylacking a resettlement legal framework, the 570displaced families would not go empty-handed as ithad set aside an $11 million resettlement budget.

A conservation farming scheme in its livelihood andsupport programme on a one-hectare piece of landfor all the displaced farmers is part of the budget andis one of KML’s corporate social responsibility activities.

Some conservation farming project lead farmers talkedto like Dorcas Kasongo, David Kijila and Alfred Kalotawere getting better yields through the project and thuswere grateful to FQM for the initiative. KML has alsoengaged the most vulnerable people, especially women,in growing cassava whose objective is to ensure foodsecurity in homes.

Monetary compensation is also part of the resettlementpackage. In line with the Ministry of Agriculture and

A glimpse into KML resettlement

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A month earlier, FQM government relationsmanager John Gladston announced thatKML had employed more than 2,000Zambians, majority of whom hailed fromSenior Chief Musele’s chiefdom.

Newly installed mills at FQM's $2 billion Sentinel Mine at Kalumbila,120 kilometres west of Solwezi in Senior Chief Musele's area.

ALUMBILA Minerals Limited (KML), a subsidiary of First Quantum Minerals (FQM), is no strangerto controversy concerning the new mine being set up in Solwezi.K

By Chusa Sichone

November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller4 Zambian Traveller November/December 2013 5


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Home ownership is economic empowerment, he said.Mr Pascall boasted that the Trident Project would turnNorth-Western Province into the new Copperbelt ,adding that Sentinel Mine would put Zambia ahead inmining technology, thus competing favourably withcountries like Chile and Peru, among others.

Despite such an attractive package, however, ZEMAhas not yes approved KML’s RAP!

Mr Lappeman said ZEMA’s prolonged approval of KML’s2011 RAP would subsequently delay the commissioningof the mine’s Sentinel plant scheduled for April 2014.

The delay will result in KML losing $5 million per dayonce the April deadline is not observed.

Mr Lappeman said there was need to resettle theWanyinwa community within two weeks to avoid losingsuch revenue because the people were living in themine’s key operational area. He wondered why ZEMAhad not approved KML’s RAP since September 2011and yet the First Quantum Minerals Limited (FQML)subsidiary had exhausted all the necessary avenuesthat culminated into the document and subsequentlyavailed it to the Agency two years ago.

Mr Lappeman further said that comparisons betweenKML’s RAP and those of four other firms which ZEMAapproved recently revealed that KML’s resettlementpackage was by far much more attractive than thequartet.

The most common community comment is to speedup the resettlement while we submitted theResettlement Action Plan to ZEMA in September, 2011.It’s almost two years later and they (ZEMA) still haven’tapproved it, Mr Lappeman said.

We basically believe that a lot of what they arerequesting has already been done, it’s more of acommunication breakdown issue which we will addressin our letter to them.

There was need to have a stockpile of copper rich oreat the plant site before Sentinel Mine could becommissioned, but some people are residing in suchkey mining areas.

If we don’t have the approval to resettle the people Iwould say we wouldn't be able to start mining becausethe locations of the communities are in the path ofcritical mining infrastructure. If we don’t resettle thosepeople within the next two weeks, there could bepotential project delays. This is how much pressure weare under and we believe our entitlements aresignificantly higher than other resettlement plans acrossthe country, he said.

Mr Lappeman said ZEMA sent a deferral letter to KMLmanagement requesting, among other things, that theDisaster Management and Mitigation Unit (DMMU)through its principal lands resettlement officer conductsmore consultations with the affected community and themining firm as the resettlement package was inadequate.He said he was surprised that ZEMA deemed KML’s RAPpackage as insufficient, besides requesting that theDMMU’s principal lands resettlement officer conductsfurther consultations and yet he had been to the areaseveral times to perform the same task.

Mr Lappeman, however, said it would comply withZEMA’s request apart from writing to the Agency soonover its concerns. He also believed that such anomaliescould have been avoided if Zambia had a ResettlementPolicy which would set standards, provided a timeframe for the consideration and approval of RAP’s aswell as clarified procedures.

Mr Pascall said of the delay to approve the RAP: Thereis resettlement going on but it’s voluntary. If resettlementdoesnít happen there for those sections that you aretalking about, the pipeline and the diversion channel,the net effect of the mining schedule is $5 million a day.

That’s the loss revenue per day and of that we wouldpay taxes to the Government of around 30 per cent.Thirty-five out of 570 displaced families have so farvolunteered to be relocated.

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Tristan Pascall, FQM's Kalumbila Minerals General Manager during arecent media tour of the under-construction Sentinel Mine.

The story first appeared in the Sunday Times,and has been reproduced with the expresspermission of the newspaper.


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Zambian Traveller November/December 2013 9November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller8

Mandela realised that his life on the run was over and his 17 months of freedom were about to end. A policeman introduced himself as Sergeant Vorster from Pietermaritzburg headquarters and produced an arrest warrant. Mandela was taken to Johannesburg, found guilty of sabotage and conspiracy, sentenced to life imprisonment and taken to Robben Island in Table Bay.

His 18 years on the island are vividly depicted in the museum’s informative photographic displays.

In 1982 Mandela was transferred to Pollsmoor Prison in the Cape Town suburb of Tokai and he began secret negotiations with the P.W. Botha

government. He was moved to the Victor Verster Prison near Paarl In December 1988, described by Mandela as “a halfway house between prison and freedom,” and in July 1989 he met President Botha at his Cape Town residence.

Further negotiations with President F.W. de Klerk, who succeeded Botha, led to the ANC being unbanned, and the 71-year-old Nelson Mandela walked through the gates of the Victor Verster Prison to a rapturous reception on 11 February 1990. Four years later, in April 1994, he cast his vote in South Africa’s first democratic election and the following month he was sworn in as the country’s President.

Fifty steel columns come into alignment to form a portrait of Nelson Mandela against a backdrop of rolling hills at the Mandela Capture Site.

The approach to the sculpture is along a path representing Mandela’s “long walk to freedom.”

About five kilometres from the popular Midlands retirement town of Howick in South Africa’s

KwaZulu-Natal province, a fascinating new museum and an unusual sculpture are drawing crowds of tourists.

Exhibits in the museum provide visitors with a memorable and moving insight into the life of Nelson Mandela, and the unique sculpture is a giant silhouette of South Africa’s first black President’s head.

Established opposite the spot where Mandela was stopped and arrested by apartheid police on 5 August 1962, the R8 million museum complex will eventually comprise a conference centre, restaurant, multi-purpose theatre and an amphitheatre.

When he was released after being incarcerated for 27 years, Mandela was inaugurated as the first democratically-elected President of the Republic of South Africa on 10 May 1994 at the Union Buildings in Pretoria and, two years later on 12 December 1996, he unveiled a brass plaque on a small red-brick monument marking the site of his capture.

The original monument is directly opposite artist Marco Cianfanelli’s imposing new sculpture of 50 linear vertical steel columns which line up at a distance of 35 metres to create a silhouette of Mandela. To appreciate the image, visitors approach the sculpture along a path representing the “long walk to freedom.” Halfway down an incline, the poles line up magically to create an outline of Mandela’s face looking west.

The complex was officially opened by President Jacob Zuma in August 2012, 50 years after Mandela was arrested whilst disguised as a chauffeur. Zuma said: “We must encourage future generations to visit this place to see Madiba’s last point as a free man. Those who do so will be inspired by his sacrifice, commitment and dedication to this country and its people.”

In his splendid autobiography entitled “Long Walk to Freedom,” Mandela describes being forced underground, slipping out of South Africa to seek foreign aid for the African National Congress, and then returning through Bechuanaland (now Botswana) with his friend Cecil Williams. He was a fugitive who had acquired the romantic aura of “The Black Pimpernel.” He addressed anti-apartheid meetings around the country, made calls to reporters

Tribute to Nelson Mandela‘The Black Pimpernel’

from public telephone booths, and appeared unexpectedly in the offices of newspaper editors.

Walking through the Capture Site museum, visitors are riveted by brilliant exhibits telling the story of Mandela’s extraordinary life, with the emphasis on his epic political struggle to free his people from the chains of apartheid. They learn that he was born on 18 July 1918 in the Transkei village of Mvezo and named Rolihlahla (Troublemaker). His schoolteacher named him Nelson and his relatives called him Madiba (his Thembu clan name) as a sign of respect.

When Chief Albert Luthuli, leader of the ANC since 1952, was banned by the Nationalist Party government in 1961, the ANC executive committee decided that Mandela – younger, charismatic and imposing – should become the public face of the struggle, now driven underground. The Xhosa lawyer spoke at the All-in Africa Conference in Pietermaritzburg the same year when it was agreed that the government should call a national convention attended by representatives of all race groups to draw up a new constitution, failing which the ANC would organise a three-day stay-away of black workers.

In his first television interview in 1961, Mandela warned that if the government’s reaction was to crush non-violent demonstrations by naked force the ANC would have to seriously consider its tactics. He believed there were only two choices – submit or fight.

In July of 1961 the ANC executive asked Mandela to form Umkhonto we Sizwe (Spear of the Nation) to begin an armed offensive against the apartheid state by sabotaging key points without causing casualties. On December 16 that year electricity sub-stations and government buildings were blown up in Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth and Durban.

In August 1962, after returning from his fund-raising trip to African-ruled countries to the north, Mandela and Cecil Williams held clandestine meetings with ANC colleagues in Durban and then headed for Johannesburg. After driving through Howick, 30 kms north-west of Pietermaritzburg, their Austin Westminster was overtaken by a Ford V-8 and Mandela instinctively looked behind and saw two more cars occupied by white men. Suddenly, the Ford ahead of them skidded to a halt and the ANC men were signalled to stop. In that instant,

New museum drawing crowds in South Africaby Richard Rhys Jones

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An uplifting display at the museum exit honours the poet William Ernest Henley, whose poem “Invictus” inspired Madiba to endure and survive his captivity. It reads:

“In the fell clutch of circumstance

I have not winced nor cried aloud

Under the bludgeonings of chance

My head is bloody but unbowed

It matters not how straight the gate

How charged with punishments the scroll

I am the master of my fate

I am the captain of my soul.”

Mandela’s life is explored through the museum’s seven themes – character, comrade, leader, prisoner, negotiator, statesman and legacy. In each theme the narrative is presented through dramatic enlargements of photographs taken throughout his career. The exhibition traces how Mandela built a new multi-racial nation from the fragments of conflict, making full use of the “weapons” at his disposal – love, compassion, forgiveness, humour and political acumen.

The Capture Site Museum is a fitting monument to Nelson Mandela’s struggle for freedom, his vision of a multi-racial society and an engrossing tapestry of modern South African history. ❏

A photo panel shows how political prisoners were treated on Robben Island.

Springbok captain Francois Pienaar receives the 1995 Rugby World Cup from President Mandela, a clever unifying gesture on Mandela’s part.

TRUE LEADERSHIP: This panel states that while Mandela was in prison he discovered that “the enemy” was human after all.


according to Samuel Pepys. Indeed the whole area acquired quite a reputation for loose living, even in those uninhibited days. Some said Piccadilly had come to mean ‘pick a dilly’ – dillies being ladies of the night who were ‘two a penny’ round there.

St James’s Church and its leafy churchyard now have a welcoming atmosphere of a very different kind, enticing passers-by with lunchtime concerts set off by its classic interior and a pleasant café with summer outdoor seating. The churchyard also hosts an Antiques and Collectibles market every Tuesday (10am-6pm) and an Arts and Crafts market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The new roof even has solar panels, and through the shady trees there’s a glimpse of Jermyn Street, known for its bespoke gentlemen’s outfitters and exclusive, Georgian-style little shops. Down St James Street, which leads towards the Guards barracks, are more such outfitters, and some of the clubs for which the area is also famous, including The Royal Over-Seas League. St James Street has some wonderful façades, and if you have a hankering for a bowler hat and silver-topped cane or brolly, this is where to look.

Nearby on the same side (Piccadilly south) are Waterstone’s (Europe’s biggest bookshop) with its comfortable basement café and upstairs restaurant, and the Prince’s Arcade. This is one of several undercover luxury shopping arcades along Piccadilly that keep you dry if the weather takes a nasty turn. In the warmer months, there is always Green Park, where office workers and visitors alike kick off their footwear and snooze in deckchairs dotted all over the grass, while plump pigeons swoop for picnic

crumbs. This being one of the Royal Parks, it is safe and well-maintained. Some of the strollers might be overnighting at the Ritz, only a step further along, while the picnic fare could well have come from another great Piccadilly institution, Fortnum and Mason.

When Mr Fortnum and Mr Mason first opened their modest provisioning store (by selling off best quality candle stubs from the Court) they could never have imagined what a legend it would become. Cook’s night off? Henley Regatta, Ascot, going to the wars, Antarctic expedition? Certainly, sir/madam – Fortnum’s will make up a hamper to your specifications with only the very best ingredients. Smoked this, potted that, tinned

the other – jellied, crystallised, organic, sea-salted, chocolate-coated, with just a hint of truffles . . . And it’s all so prettily displayed. ‘Tesco’s to the Queen!’ sniffed one cruel wit – but see their Easter egg display, Christmas goodies or the fresh fruit and flower selections, and forget the diet (and budget) for an hour or two. Outside is the famous clock with its bewigged, courtly figures announcing that it is always time for tea at Fortnum’s, but beware – they serve so many kinds you could be there for days.

The Ritz Hotel, for afternoon tea or indeed anything, needs no introduction. Modelled on a French chateau, it has a stunning façade and roof. If you see press photographers hanging around the main entrance, which is at actually at the side, hover discretely and you may see someone very rich or famous checking in. For those not ordering their champagne, caviar, lobster and oysters in-house, there’s a handy emporium close by

Arriving in style at The Ritz

Summer in St James’s Park, off Piccadilly.

Pick-a-what? You certainly wouldn’t be the first to ask. Londoners are notoriously cheeky when it comes

to naming (or nick-naming) bits of their city, although over the centuries their spelling has been somewhat eccentric. But some names are just born to stick. In the case of Piccadilly, it’s managed to become one of the world’s best known and most mis-spelt locations; it has featured in songs, plays, films, even wartime codes – yet it’s a reasonable bet that most locals won’t have a clue how this iconic thoroughfare got its oddly catchy name.

As for Piccadilly Circus, it’s no good expecting elephants, although you may find a few clowns. Circus here simply means a circular open space, which these days is more like a glorified traffic roundabout. Rising above it all is a certain famous statue, also misnamed – but we’ll come to him later.

Until the early 17th century this area was simply too far west to be of interest to the bustling City and Port of London or the Palace-and-Parliament folk of Westminster. Most of it was open fields, through which the road from the west churned its muddy way into

what was really still a medieval town.

Then came a time of great social change when Cavaliers and Roundheads were battling it out, and one big change was in the way people dressed. Out went the elaborate lace ruffs of the Tudors and Stuarts, and in came – piccadills, which were less flashy, wide white linen collars with a lace trim. Everyone wanted them, although puritan Roundheads would have scorned the lace as too frivolous. By 1626, the tailor who sold these trendy items was rich enough to build a mansion he named Pickadilly Hall where the west road approached the city limits, and the name stuck to that stretch of it.

And so almost overnight were born several essential features of what we now know as Piccadilly – its prominence as the hub of the West End (postcode, W1), its association with quality gentlemen’s tailoring, and that certain stylishness, even snobbery, because of its convenience for Westminster. Some very grand houses now lined themselves up beside Pickadilly Hall, and when the newly rich residents decided they needed a church, it had to be designed by none other that Sir Christopher Wren, and named for the patron of the royal court, St James.

Walking down Piccadilly today from the Circus, (take the south side first, as there is more to see) it is easy to miss St James’s Church because it is set well back from the pavement, behind high railings in a tree-filled courtyard. It is

worth a look, and not just because it is something of a survivor. The spire fell down several times, even before it lost its roof to bombs in 1940. Its first congregations were rather a racy crowd more interested in each other’s clothes and ‘affaires’ than the sermon – at least

STROLLING DOWN LONDON’S PICCADILLYBy Kate Nivison

The ‘hub of the universe’, with the statue they call Eros.

Fortnum’s corner, Piccadilly, W1.

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actually supposed to be Anteros, the ‘opposite twin’ of naughty, erotic Eros, and was meant to represent unselfish, mature love. But his maker modelled him on a 16-year-old Italian youth, which made him rather too beautiful for some high-minded souls, so to silence their qualms he was officially dubbed ‘The Angel of Christian Charity’. It never caught on though, because ordinary folk definitely preferred Eros to his loftier twin, perhaps because it was easier to spell, or maybe not.

So iconic did the statue become as a meeting place, that ‘Piccadilly Circus’ was used a code word for the main assembly point during the 1944 D-Day Normandy landings. Join the crowds around Eros and you’ll soon be saying, as Londoners do of busy places anywhere in the world – ‘It’s like Piccadilly Circus round here!’ ❏

Only the best; Prince’s Arcade, Piccadilly south side.

Fortnum’s seasonal displays are a delight.

Something to celebrate? Champagne and fresh oysters.

specialising in these and other luxury seafoods.

Cross to the north side of Piccadilly at this point, and you can’t miss the massive gates and imposing architecture of the Royal Academy of Arts; address, simply Burlington House, Piccadilly. In the forecourt is a statue of its founder, artist Sir Joshua Reynolds. Here are housed mainly British paintings from 1800 to the present, including plenty by Gainsborough, Stubbs, Constable, Turner and Blake, and there is usually a special exhibition or two.

Doubling back to the Circus takes you past the Burlington Arcade, with another collection of charming little shops full of ‘the best of British’, and the splendid Trocadero building. There is a certain inevitability about finishing up at Piccadilly Circus – most visitors do at some stage. In fact Londoners say that if you stand there for ten minutes, you’re bound to see someone you know. And if you stand there long enough, you’ll see everyone you know . . .

Five major roads converge on the Circus, most of them recognisable from the British version of Monopoly, surely the world’s best loved board game – Coventry Street, leading to Leicester Square; the graceful curve of Regent Street up to Oxford Circus; Shaftesbury Avenue and Haymarket. This is the very heart of London’s West End and Theatreland, with enough neon signs flashing to turn night into day. And there, presiding over the bustle, blare and glare, a-top his column is the ‘little tin god’ himself, the statue now irrevocably known as Eros. Day or night, the flight of steps at his feet is almost always obscured by a roistering selection of the world’s back-packers,

Crafts Market in St James’s churchyard.

St James’s Church was designed by Sir Christopher Wren

perhaps appropriate for Eros, the god of earthly love.

Or is he? On his debut in 1893, he was a memorial to the kind-hearted Earl of Shaftesbury and his charitable work for poor children. He was also the world’s first aluminium statue (hence the ‘little tin god’ jibe). However, this airy, winged, beautiful lad was


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Solution on Page 48

Answers on Page 48

GeNeRAl KNowledGe Quiz1. Who was the youngest US President to die in office?

2. Wichita international airport is in which US state?

3. Who was the independent prosecutor in the Bill Clinton affair?

4. In the cost-a-lot-to-make movie Waterworld who played Mariner?

5. Who did Elton John originally duet with on Don’t Go Breaking My Heart?

6. Which state is called the Bluegrass State?

7. What is the form of entertainment where people take turns to sing?

8. What is a dog’s house called?

9. What is another name for a nut?

10. What is the named used for the buttons on a telephone?

11. What is a communal settlement in Israel, typically a farm called?

12. What is the name of a large predatory marine fish of the drum family?

13. What is a Japanese aircraft loaded with explosives and making a deliberate suicidal crash on an enemy called?

14. What is a large plant-eating marsupial with a long powerful tail and strongly developed hind limbs?

15. What is a European dish consisting chiefly of fish, rice, and hard-boiled eggs called?

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Mopani Copper Mines Plc’s new Synclinorium Shaft at Nkana is nearing completion.

Recently the Company announced that it had sunk 1000metres out of the total depth of 1,277metres as at October 1, 2013.

Danny Callow, Mopani Chief Executive Officer, commended the team for ensuring the project remained on course. Commenting on the announcement he said:

“I’m delighted with this achievement. The team has done a tremendous job. I am encouraged that the project is on target both in terms of time and budget. Long term projects like this Synclinorium Shaft project can be unpredictable for various reasons, but I’m pleased that we have managed to keep the budget in check. I have no doubt that the team working on the project will ensure that the remaining part of the project is delivered both on time and within budget come the second quarter of 2015, in readiness for commencement of ore hoisting.”

Synclinorium Shaft complex

MOPANI’S SYNCLINORIUM SHAFT NEARS COMPLETION

The Synclinorium Shaft is designed to extend the lifespan of Nkana mine by a further 25-30 years – beyond the current expected depletion dates of the existing reserves at Mindola North, SOB (South Ore Body) and Central shafts of 2015, 2017 and 2018, respectively.

This will secure around 3,000 jobs, which would otherwise have been lost as a result of the closure of some mines beginning in 2015. The project has already created about 500 jobs at construction stage.

Mr Callow explained that apart from securing the existing jobs, the new Shaft will provide Mopani with access to some 115 million tonnes of ore at a grade of 1.9 percent copper and 0.09 percent cobalt.

The Synclinorium Shaft, which is being sunk by Murray & Roberts Cementation Zambia, involves drilling and blasting and using mesh and bolts as temporary support and concrete lining as permanent support, while the vent

Mr Yaluma added “This is a huge investment for Zambia which would bring enormous benefits to the country’s economy through increased copper production, employment and government revenue. I’m thrilled about this project.” Jacek Dabrowski, Project Manager for the Synclinorium Shaft Complex, explained that safety would be guaranteed throughout the lifespan of the Nkana mine’s life-prolonging Synclinorium Shaft, following the sinking of a parallel Ventilation Shaft.

“The Ventilation Shaft lies adjacent to the main shaft and will be sunk to the depth of 1167m. It will serve as a lifeline for the main shaft as it will supply fresh, cooled air to working areas underground, thereby providing a safe and secure working environment for the employees.

“To achieve this, we will equip the shaft with state-of-the-art ventilation equipment that conforms to internationally-recognised environmental and health standards,” Mr Dabrowski said. ❏

shaft was sunk by drilling and blasting up to 50 metres deep and will further be sunk by raise boring beyond 50 metres.

Mr Callow hailed the project team for upholding high safety standards, adding: “Shaft sinking is a highly technical undertaking and to maintain such a good safety record with zero fatalities is a great achievement. For us, safety is the number one priority and therefore, I would like to commend the project team for establishing a safe working environment for all employees. I am determined to ensure that this remains the case up to the very end of the project.”

As one of the biggest construction projects currently underway in Zambia, the Synclinorium Shaft project involves construction of a 7m diameter main shaft and a 6m diameter ventilation shaft to depths of 1277 metres and 1167 metres respectively.

Mines, Energy and Water Development Minister Christopher Yaluma during his recent tour of the Synclinorium Shaft described it as a “huge investment that would benefit the country”.

“We are quite pleased that what we thought was impossible is being proved to be possible through the sinking the Synclinorium Shaft. US$323 million is not an insignificant amount of money and this is not just talk, as we can see it on the ground,” Mr Yaluma commented.

Staff working at the 1000metre level of the Synclinorium Shaft

Minister of Mines Honourable Christopher Yaluma being

interviewed at the Synclinorium Shaft in August 2013

Mopani Chief Operating Offcier being interviewed at the Synclinorium Shaft in August 2013


MOPANI’S 2013 ACTIVITIES IN PICTURES

Mopani CEO hands over a staff bus donated by the Comapny to Kitwe Central Hospital

Local musicians Amayenge performing at the re-opening of rehabilitated Nkana Stadium in March 2013

Mopani CEO handing over a cheque to Man of The Match during the 2013 COSAFA Cup. Mopani dontated

US$54,000 towards the tournament

Mopani CEO and Mines Deputy Minister launch the Behavioural Based Care project aimed at promoting safety

at the workplace.

Mopani Copper Mines Plc has continued to contribute to Zambia’s economic growth by investing in various mine expansion as well as community

programmes.

The huge amount of capital investment being pumped into the continuous operation and expansion of the mines amounting to over K10 billion (US$2 billion) is a clear demonstration that Mopani will remain part of Zambia’s mining sector for many years to come.

The over K1billion kwacha (US$200,000) invested in various community projects, on the other hand, reaffirms the Company’s commitment to bettering the living standards of the people in the communities where it operates.

MOPANI’S 2013 ACTIVITIES IN PICTURES

Mopani CEO Danny Callow spraying one of the houses in Chamboli in Kitwe at the launch of the 2013 Indoor

Residual Spray campaign

Newly rehabilitated Nkana Stadium. Mopani spent over US$500,000 to bring the stadium to international

standard

Works currently underway at Mopani’s 2nd acid plant in Mufulira to bring an end to the legacy problem of sulphur

dioxide (2)

MCM Manager Medical, Dr Ronny Cheelo, receiving Commendation Award from GBCHealth in New York USA

in May 2013 for Mopani’s HIV Prog

MCM CEO with Zambia’s Vice President, Guy Scott and Minister of Mines at the 2013 Mining and Energy

Conference MCM was major sponsor

Danny Callow hands over a gift to Mr Sikalumbi when the later was discharged from Wusakile Hospitals after a

serious road accident


Newly branded bus donated to Nkana FC by Mopani

MOPANI’S 2013 ACTIVITIES IN PICTURES Continued...

Mopani hosted a swimming gala at its newly refurbished swimming pool at cost of K300,000 (US$60,000) in

January

Mopani CEO with Minsiter of Homes Affairs, Edgar Lungu, at handover of police Check point donated by Moapni at

cost of K324,000

Mopani donates assorted medical equipment to Kitwe Central Hospital

Mopani’s Africa Cup of Nations Delegation to South Africa in January 2013

Mopani CEO speaking during a luncheon hosted by the Company for Mines Minister during Copperbelt Mining

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25November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller24

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it’s oh-so-nice to go travelling . . . – watching the clouds while sipping a drink perhaps, or dreaming

of new horizons on a train or bus. But then you arrive, and however famous the destination or warm the welcome, the scammers will be waiting. And be in no doubt: they’ll have spotted you before you spot them.

It’s a sad fact, but wherever travellers meet there are tales of who’s been caught out this time. Bangkok, Addis, Las Vegas, Istanbul, Cairo, Mumbai, Livingstone, Rio . . . it doesn’t seem to matter where, because those cheeky scammers are getting better every year. We’re not talking about your average pickpocket or con-man (confidence trickster) here – although most are not average at all, they’re experts. These days, a good scam takes a whole gang. The guys spotting you on the street are only the foot soldiers, backed up by middle men who are often in paid positions of trust (hotel or casino staff, security guards, shop assistants). At the top is Mr Big and partners who provide the brains and protection for what is going to happen next. Often they are in with the police and local politicians who take the lion’s share of the (tax-free) profits, and the big guys could be armed.

Most successful scams are based on ‘the tout’ method – someone local, almost always a youngish, inoffensive-looking man rather than a woman, who ‘just happens’ to be around as you hit the streets. Night or day makes little difference, but sunset, always faster than you think in tropical areas, is a favourite time. Lone travellers are the main targets. Being an obvious couple gives some protection, but experienced touts will cheerfully take on bunches of mates/buddies bound for a night on the town.

The touts themselves come in two main types. The first will be posing as ‘just another guy’ on his way to meet a friend at his favourite beach, restaurant, club, tourist highlight, nightspot. The minute you appear hesitant or lost, he will ask in an unthreatening, new-best-friend way, if you speak English and would like some help. The second type is more obviously commercial, clutching bunches of leaflets, maps, tickets and vouchers. This approach at least looks honest – so far. We’ll come to a third more dangerous type later.

the New Best Friend, or ‘i was a stranger, and you took me in.’

Do keep this old joke in mind when approached

Bar snacks arrive and so do pretty girls, and lots more drinks. The noise is loud enough to render your questions easily ‘misunderstood’, while sweet smiles accompany unintelligible answers. At some point, your new friend will suddenly make his excuses and leave, plonking a bit of cash down as his share. Cue the bill, which could easily be ten times what you think reasonable. Anything from a couple of hundred to a several thousand US dollars, depending on the type of establishment, is not unusual.

But the manager, deaf to your protests and accompanied by ‘bouncers’ flexing large muscles quickly arrives to point out that you must expect to pay for the ‘extras’ (the more ‘ethnic’ the better) in a classy joint such as this. Your options are now limited: pay up, fight you way out if you think you’re hard enough, or slam a couple of notes on the table and run, which is the option I took one dark night in Addis Abba, and faster than I’d have thought possible. I got away only because I was wearing sensible shoes, the door happened to be open and the man chasing me fell over a goat.

‘you see? i’ve been ripped off too, my new-best-friend.’

Here are some clever twists on the basic clip joint scam. You companion may not leave early (if he did, leaving some cash, rest assured he will be reimbursed later). He may even express shock/horror that this is not the nice friendly place he once knew, and even offer to pay half with his credit card. It will be accepted graciously by the management who will charge your card but not his. Better yet – the bouncers may hold a knife to your tout’s throat, and he will plead with you to save his ‘innocent’ life by paying up. Many thanks to a businessman in the next seat on an overnight flight from India for that extra detail.

‘i’m your hotel waiter/bellboy/cleaner. don’t you recognise me?’

This is the really dangerous one, because it plays on a visitor’s faith in a hotel’s security and fear of appearing discourteous. You are approached in the grounds of an apparently reputable and security-conscious hotel (car searches, bag scans, the lot) or just outside it, by a personable lad claiming to be one of the staff. He even claims you have nodded to him in the hotel. If he greets you outside the property, this means someone inside has ‘marked’ you and phoned the guy lurking outside – cell phones are a scammer’s best friend. This will be just as dusk is falling and you are looking of somewhere authentic to eat. Naturally, he knows the very place. Should you be ‘wanting some action’ that is even more authentic and possibly illegal, he’ll be ready for that too. Prohibited substances, which can still include alcohol in strict Islamic areas, fun with ladies who turn out not to be ladies after all (Bangkok and Rio deserve a special mention here), dining on endangered species (various ‘Chinatowns’ not even in China), ‘blood diamonds’, after-hours gambling, in fact for anything you would rather not be snapped and splashed

watch out, there are scammers about in all the best known tourist trapsBy Kate Nivison

IT’S A SCAM!

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At least he’s being honest about it.

Meanwhile, at the meaner end of Las Vegas . . .

by anyone in a strange land. It’s a neat pun on a famous Bible quote about charity. Cynics claim it’s the unofficial motto of every taxi driver/casino dealer/hotel owner in the world. But to the tout, it’s simply a way of life and that’s exactly what he’ll do – take you in. For the ‘just a friendly guy’ type this will usually involve a bar or club he knows, and this will invariable turn out to be – a clip joint.

the Clip Joint – the old ones are the best.

Clip joints flourished in the USA during the Prohibition era (1920-1933) because people still wanted to drink socially although it was against the law. ‘Joint’ simply means any doubtful establishment, while the clip part simply means that your hard-earned cash will be ‘clipped’ away much faster than you could possibly have imagined before you finally make your escape. The ‘mark’ (target customer) orders what he assumes is just one drink or round of drinks, which then turns out to be accompanied by something not ordered. There will be music (possibly live) and dancing (authentically ethnic or otherwise).


all over Facebook doing, your tout will have a taxi waiting.

Could be it’s the taxi driver who will lead you astray. One journalist investigating nightclub voucher scams in Las Vegas (aka Lost Wages) found that his friendly recommended cab driver had been taking him ‘the scenic route’ for over a week to bump up his metered fares. And that cabby wasn’t the one he interviewed living in the storm drains under the world’s most famous Sin City. Also inhabiting this true underworld are hundreds more homeless – like the guys selling vouchers for US$10 each, to trippers hoping to get VIP/no-queuing access and a first-drink-free deal at some of the priciest and most sought-after nightspots in town above. The touts buy the vouchers legally in bundles and can keep what they earn, but the vouchers turn out to be more or less useless, the touts can’t be found next day, and the trippers go home.

A tuk-tuk / camel ride to the jewellery outlet ‘sale’ / ‘my brother’s carpet shop’.

Bangkok has some highly organised and well-protected scams involving armies of tuk-tuk drivers and tip-off guys. These will drip-feed the unwary into some very prestigious-looking jewellery outlets which run permanent sales, as in ‘This would be worth double/three times that in New York or Sydney, sir.’ Everyone gets a cut including the local police, but when the victim gets his rubies, pearls or whatever valued back home, the chances are they’ll be worth less than he paid for them, even at the huge ‘discounts’ offered, which does not impress the wife/girlfriend. And as for camel rides and carpets – you can’t have one without the other anywhere near the Middle East. The carpets may be fine, but do watch the camels. Once you are up there, you may find that the price quoted for your unsteady lurch round the Pyramids or along the beach does not include getting you down again, and camels and their owners can be very firm about this. Just hang on tight until one of them gives in – and always remember, wherever you are, ‘Watch out, there’s a tout about!’ ❏

Wheels of Fortune VIP vouchers don’t always do what they say - Las Vegas

Great Rio view, but is someone already watching you? Always remember there’s a tout about.

Hotel security can be compromised in many tourist areas.

the Kafue Trust announces the publication of its new book on Kafue National Park - ‘A Visitor’s Guide to

Kafue National Park, Zambia’.

“At last we have an invaluable and long-awaited guide to the Kafue National Park embedded in the heart of Africa, the centre of Zambia; rich in biodiversity, with an enviable list of flora and fauna and intimate, private lodges and exquisite camps resting in unspoilt landscape. This compact book will be a friend to newcomers and a detailed reference for those who have visited the Park already. Anything you need to know is here. We hope that the guide will help you enjoy this vast unspoilt tranquillity as we have.” Professor Emeritus, Ian Swingland, OBE.

The 187 page, pocket sized, user friendly travel guide is the most comprehensive publication that visitors will find invaluable when traveling in and around Kafue National Park (KNP).

Full of information about all aspects of KNP, the reader is introduced to the park through chapters on the park’s history, geology, climate, and local communities. The chapter on ‘Wildlife of the KNP’ includes full colour photographs and fascinating information on where to find the different species of mammals, birds, reptiles and fish within the Park. The chapters on ‘Planning Your Trip’, ‘Where To Go’ and ‘What To See and Do’ as well as general ‘Travel Tips’ provide detailed information for both international and residential park visitors. There is an easy to use quick reference section on where to stay as well as full descriptions of each lodge.

Whilst on safari, visitors can use the handy checklists at the back of the book to record their sightings of mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, amphibians and common trees. And, a special chapter concentrates on the all-important conservation and management issues of the park.

Useful maps are placed throughout the book and a large comprehensive pullout map provides detailed information on roads, rivers, places of interest, fishing, picnic spots and overnight accommodation including campsites found in and near this vast and little-known wildlife park.

The Visitor’s Guide has been produced by the Kafue Trust Zambia and was generously sponsored by the Royal Danish Embassy, Zambia.

It was edited by Dr John Hanks and researched and written by Peter de Vere Moss. Both John and Peter were previously KNP Biologists, researchers and management planners. The many full colour photographs that illustrate every aspect of the book were contributed by KNP lodge operators, renowned photographers and conservationists.

The RRP is Zambian KR 150 and is now available in bookshops in Livingstone, Lusaka, Kitwe and Ndola and on Amazon.com. It is a Zambian publication - ISBN Number 978-9982-22-459-8.

All profits from the book will go directly into KNP conservation projects.

A VISITOR’S GuIDe TO KAfue NATIONAL PARK, ZAMBIA

About the Kafue trust:The Kafue Trust is a UK Charity founded in 1997 and represented in UK and Zambia to provide professional assistance and financial resources for park management, wildlife research, training for natural resource conservation and development of sustainable livelihood enterprises. The Trust aims to assist the Zambia Wildlife Authority to improve its operational capacity in the Park; to contribute to management needs, to foster responsible tourism and to enhance the well-being of the local people. The Trust works closely with the Zambia Wildlife Authority whose help was invaluable in producing this important book.

About dr John Hanks - editorJohn Hanks is a zoologist by training with his first degree in Natural Sciences from Magdalene College, Cambridge, followed by a PhD on the reproductive physiology, growth, and population dynamics of the African elephant. He has over 35 years’ experience in a wide variety of conservation management and research projects in many African countries including having been the Biologist in Kafue National Park (1965-1968). He has won many conservation awards, is a well-known broadcaster and journalist – having written over 100 scientific papers and three books. He currently writes a monthly column for African Geographic Magazine and is a Board Member of the five-country Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) in which KNP plays a significant part.

About Peter de Vere Moss - Researcher and AuthorPeter Moss, BSc., MA., studied fisheries and wildlife management at the University of Guelph in Canada and is an experienced international development consultant, wildlife biologist, project manager and adviser who worked in the Provincial Administration, Office of The President in Zambia 1957-1965 and as a Wildlife Ranger 1965-1967 and biologist in KNP 1972-1976. He is author of the first Management Plan for KNP completed in 1976 when the idea of a handbook for KNP was first conceived, drafted the Zambia National Policy on Environment 2004/05, wrote a report on Tourism Concessions for KNP in 2007 and revised the General Management Plan for KNP in 2010 for ZAWA. He specialises in protected area management, environmental policy and national park planning, responsible tourism and rural development. His dream is to see KNP take its rightful place as national asset of inestimable value and a national park of global importance.

For further information please contact:Belinda Pumfrett - [email protected] Smith - [email protected]

For further information about The Kafue Trust, our projects and Kafue National Park please visit our website at www.kafuetrust.org


South of Miami lies a chain of coral islands with legends of pirates and sunken treasure where

modern visitors have discovered the “real gold” of tourism – world-class dive sites, game fishing, sandy beaches and the largest coral reef in the western hemisphere.

Florida’s Keys offer Americans a Caribbean holiday without having to leave the United States of America, because the USA’s southernmost point, Key West, is only 90 miles from Cuba.

The islands have the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Gulf of Mexico on the other, but they are often referred to as the “American Caribbean” because they have all the amenities of tropical island destinations. Explorer Ponce de Leon discovered La Florida and the islands for Spain in 1513, naming the last one Cayo Hueso (Bone Key) where the bones of dead Indians littered the beach. Cay, the Spanish word for island, was corrupted to key in English and by the time all of Florida was ceded to the United States in 1819 the islands were already referred to as the Florida Keys.

Bone Key was re-named Key West and in 1823 it became the main port of the Anti-Pirate Squadron established to protect Americans and commerce from marauding pirates. Trade routes came close to the Florida coast and the reefs guarding the Keys often caused ships with valuable cargoes to founder in raging storms. As a result, wrecking and salvaging became the primary business of Keys residents, and they became wealthy on the proceeds.

The starting-point for America’s Florida Keys holiday mecca is the bustling city of Miami, where we stayed

KeY WeST AND THe CORAL ISLANDS

briefly before heading south along Highway 1. Our hotel on the beachfront was a “palace of kitsch” honouring the early days of automobiles. Its name was Dezerland and in the foyer it featured hand-operated petrol pumps and advertising signs that long ago adorned service stations. The hotel’s crowning glory was a garish dining room where patrons can actually enjoy a meal whilst sitting inside a vehicle dating back to the 1950s. Car bodies had been neatly cut away and a table with bench seats inserted for the ultimate comfort of diners.

A left-hand-drive hire car bore us away from this questionable luxury and we were soon bowling along Highway 1 towards “the Last Resort” of Key West. Less than 10 miles away to our right were the famous Everglades where hungry alligators lurked in shallow swamps - which is probably why my nervous wife frequently reminded me not to get too close to the edge of the road as we drove through colourfully-named resorts such as Key Largo (of Humphrey Bogart film fame), Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and the famous Seven Mile Bridge.

The waters of Key Largo, the first island on the route, conceal a remarkable number of wrecks ranging from Spanish galleons, Civil War warships, British frigates and World War 2 freighters. Its marine sanctuary, the nation’s first underwater reserve, is home to more than 600 species of fish and 40 types of coral. In addition to diving and snorkelling, there are guided walks, canoeing, fishing, camping, and daily cruises on a 125-passenger glass-bottom boat.

Islamorada is known for its world-class sport fishing. Each season welcomes new fishing

tournaments and angling opportunities. Bonefishing is especially popular with bonefish up to 10 lb, while fishing for sailfish offshore can be equally exciting in the winter months.

An entrepreneur named Henry Flagler financed the construction of Seven Mile Bridge in 1900 as part of a railway link between Miami and Key West 160 miles away, and it opened in 1912 with a price tag of half a billion dollars. It collapsed under the force of a 200 mph hurricane and a 20-foot tidal wave in 1935. The railway then sold the remains of the tracks and bridges to the U.S. Government and three years later the overseas highway was opened.

Key Marathon is about halfway along the Keys and was the base camp for Flagler’s railway workers. It is now a popular resort area boasting the world’s longest fishing pier – a 12-mile-long section of old railway bridge that is closed to vehicular traffic. At Crane Point we found the Children’s Museum of the Florida Keys, the only tropical natural history museum designed and built exclusively for children, where families can re-live the excitement of olden times when Indians and pirates roamed the Keys. The nearby Dolphin Research Centre offers a “swim with the dolphins” programme and the hotels on Marathon have daily cruises for visitors wanting to explore the coral reefs.

Big Pine Key and the Lower Keys are about as “laid back” as it gets in this part of America. Boating is the main attraction and there are plenty of cruises to Looe Key for diving and snorkelling.

With an abundance of fish, the Keys are a magnet for anglers. Fishing for yellowtail and mutton snapper is excellent along the deep ledges of the reef in 60-90 feet of water. Live bait such as glass minnows will attract these fish, as well as mackerel, kingfish and barracuda. June is the best month for blackfin tuna, white marlin and blue marlin. Great numbers of yellowfin tuna and wahoo can be found in deep water in July, and August brings the annual run of kingfish shoals.

Anglers can venture out on their own to fish off bridges, jetties and beaches with information provided by the many local bait stores, or they can charter a boat captain who knows the area and will find the fish very quickly. Fishing licences are obtainable at most bait-and-tackle shops and boat marinas, and it would also be wise to collect a chart listing daily limits and fish sizes before venturing out.

The owner of a Duck Key fishing tackle shop assured me that one thing is certain on the Florida Keys:

“Screaming reels will be music to an angler’s ears.”

Crystal-clear waters with visibility up to 120 feet attract divers from all over the world for submarine vacations. Snorkelling and diving off the Keys is an unforgettable experience. Bizarre colour displays from 600 varieties of fish and exotic shapes of coral create a living, breathing seascape. Sunlight slants through the shallow water to spotlight darting fish and coral formations of stag horn, elk horn and polyps in the shape of spreading fans.

Wreck diving is also very popular. Although many of the wrecks are historically significant, others have been created by local people who are concerned about the survival of the natural reef.

Key West, the USA’s southernmost town, is only four miles long by one-and-a-half-miles wide but it has more character and history than any other American town of its size. Its residents included U.S. President Harry Truman, who ushered in the Nuclear Age to end World War 2; playwright Tennessee Williams; and hard-drinking adventurer-author Ernest Hemingway. The bars in Duval Street that Hemingway frequented in the 1930s and 40s have changed very little, especially Sloppy Joe’s pub where I found a South African earning a living by playing the honky-tonk piano for tourists.

Hemingway’s house, now a museum, is evocative of his lust for life. The descendants of the cats he loved are still in residence. He wrote seven novels, six short-story collections and two non-fiction works which were considered classics of American literature. At the age of 18 he served in World War 1 as an ambulance driver before being severely wounded, and in 1937 he was a journalist reporting on the Spanish Civil War. Married four times, Hemingway won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1954 and took his own life with a shotgun on July 2, 1961.

There are cinemas for visitors who enjoy a cultural experience, and theatres that feature live

A holiday mecca of sandy beaches, game fishing, sunken treasure and spectacular sunsets

by Richard Rhys Jones

Map of the Florida Keys

Sunset at Key West, the southernmost spot in the USA


performances. Key West has always attracted artists and its many art galleries display the works of local talent as well as national and international artists. To get a detailed history of the islands, visitors should board the Conch Tourist Train and the guide will tell you all about it as he drives around.

The year 1959 brought the Cuban revolution and Key West became a major port of entry for Cubans fleeing Communism. Near a beach in a corner of the island is a monument to those who died trying to escape the Castro government.

Sunset in Key West is more than a time of day –

it’s a spectacular happening. Tourists from hotels and cruise liners gather on the Mallory Square docks along with musicians, entertainers, and vendors who offer conch fritters and tropical fruit drinks. The “Cookie Lady” hawking her wares vies for attention with flame-tossing jugglers, balancing acts, sword-swallowers and powder-covered “human statues.”

On clear nights, as the golden orb dips into the sea beyond the westward-facing pier, the silhouettes of sails and seagulls are seen against a magical canvas of crimson sky. It’s a Key West experience no visitor should miss. ❏

Dinner in a converted automobile in Miami’s Dezerland Hotel

The Key West Conch Train is popular with tourists

For enquiries & reservations call. 0211 250000

Zambian Traveller November/December 2013 35November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller34

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- electrical, metal fabrication, welding, mechanicalfitting and machining.

The multi-million kwacha investment in the communityled to the upgrading of infrastructure, increased trainingresources and additional facilities to expand the institute.The programme was christened “Kwambula” whichmeans ignite in Kaonde, an apt name for an initiativethat aims to give hope in people, and set the coursein motion for a more prosperous Zambia.

The qualifications received by course participants willbe recognised by TEVETA as well as the South AfricanQualification Authority (SAQA).

Enrolment commenced in January 2012 with an initialintake of 71 students.

Classrooms in the institute are fully equipped with thenecessary tools and machinery to facilitate practicallearning, with accredited lecturers providing guidanceand practical knowledge.

The creation of Kwambula is consistent with the FirstQuantum Mineral’s corporate social responsibility philosophy,which is aimed at building sustainable communities thatare able to outlive mining activities, thus providing Zambiawith the benefit of skilled people, who will grow theeconomy and promote sustainable living.

“This programme, though inspired and funded by FirstQuantum Minerals, is run by Government to improveskills development in Zambia,” Davis Mulenga, FQM’spublic relations consultant, said.

The funding of the apprenticeship coves the buildingof additional infrastructure, training resources andother related expenses to run the facility.

Speaking in Solwezi when the multi-billion partnershipwith the government was signed, Matt Pascall, directorof operations at First Quantum said: “The three-yearapprenticeship programme ignites hope, and sets uson an irreversible course of seeing a more prosperousZambia. Hence we christened it Kwambula.”

“This model has proved successful in creating newgeneration skills and jobs in fast growing economiesworldwide. Therefore, the apprenticeship programmewe are setting up does not only address the muchneeded technological capacity, but also broadensZambia’s capacity to create jobs.”

Pascall added that: “Increased productivity in the miningsector and other diversified industries requires moretechnical skills. These technical skills are just as crtiticalfor the success of the country as professional skills are.Currently, these skills are not readily available. Thisinvestment paves way for Zambia to have relevanthuman capital that can easily be absorbed in thegrowing economy, a situation that will help to dentthe high unemployment figures.”

The article was first published in the Zambia Daily Mail,and has been reproduced with the express permissionof the newspaper.

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The apprenticeship programme is open to all Zambians whomeet the minimum qualifications of Grade 12 with fivecredits, which should include mathematics, science and

English. All applicants will undergo assessments and aptitudetesting to determine their ability to perform in the

engineering fields.

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Apprenticeships range from craft occupations or trades,to those seeking a professional license to practice ina regulated profession.

The Solwezi Trades Training Institute (SOTTI) has adopteda similar system christened Kwambula LearnershipProgramme, a US$1.4 million investment by KansanshiMining Plc, a subsidiary of First Quantum Minerals (FQM).

The apprenticeship provides training in mining, electrical,metal fabrication, welding, mechanical fitting andmachining.

The Kwambula is being conducted under the auspicesof the Technical Education, Vocational and Entrepre-neurial Training (TEVETA).

Through this programme, Kansanshi Mining Plc hasunderlined its desire to develop the skills of school-leavers and prepare them for industry.

James Chanda, who joined SOTTI as a lecturer last year,was attracted to the Kwambula programme becauseof the state-of-the-art equipment at the institution.

“I worked for the (Konkola Copper Mines) Nkanasmelter for five years as a metal fabricator and duringthat time, I was actively a member of the TEVETAexamination board.

When the mine closed down, I joined Luanshya CraftTraining College as a lecturer, then moved to Kafue’s St.Ambrose Technical College in the same capacity. It wasduring this time that Kansanshi advertised for the positionI am holding now for Kambula, that I got interested. Iapplied and was successful,” Mr Chanda said.

He added: ”Kwambula is new with latest equipmentand technology bought by the mine (Kansanshi).”

Besides the hi-tech equipment, Kwambula also boastsof expatriates from South Africa to impart skills tostudents and lecturers.

“Being the first Zambian lecturer to be on theprogramme has been a great achievement and anopportunity to even catch up where I lagged in mycareer,” Mr Chanda said.

He explained that being a TEVETA examining boardmember, he has had chance to visit almost every skillstraining college in the country and has seen glaringinadequacies which result in inadequate delivery oflectures.

About Kwambula, Mr Chanda said, “this is the latestequipment.”

“When you teach, it is easy for students to understand,”Mr Chanda said.

Students who attend the three courses at SOTTI spend fivemonths learning theory and seven months in the plant.

“In the plant, it is job on training,” Mr Chanda said.Students go for attachment either at Kansanshi orLumwana mines and now they have another optionof getting attached to Sentinel mine.

Riaan Van Der Merwe is superintendent of theKwambula programme, heading the three departments

Kwambula ignites holistic skills trainingin NorthWest

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PPRENTICESHIPS form part of Germany’s acclaimed dual education system, and as such arean integral part of many people’s working life.A

The skills development programme started in 2011 following an agreement betweenKansanshi Mining Plc and SOTTI with the intention of establishing a learnership programmeaimed at providing people with the opportunity to get a valid craft qualification and a

better chance at getting good jobs.

By Benedict Tembo

37Zambian Traveller November/December 2013November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller36

eldest daughter says, ‘I’m going to bungee jump’. ‘I’m not!’ the rest of us chorus in unison. We are

whistling down to the Falls on Zambia’s mirror smooth roads. There is no traffic. The Kafue River is wide and swollen after two months of rain. The farming country of Mazabuka voluptuously green. We are headed to Livingstone, quaintly colonial still, broad streets lined with houses with pretty wraparound verandahs, and onward over the border to Victoria Falls for New Year and a music festival, the Falls Fest.

I had imagined a modicum of culture. A family friendly musical event must, surely, I thought, bear more of the genteel classic than Glastonbury? More family join-in than rolling-joint? I began to feel the tiniest twinge of anxiety when a friend of aspirant bungee-jumping daughter posed the question, as she delivered the news we were going to the Festival ‘en famille’, ‘your folks quite wild then?’ ‘Um .. not especially’, admitted daughter of a mother and father who are frequently in bed before half nine and garner adequate entertainment from BBC Prime.

Livingstone is a historic little town named – here’s a surprise - after David Livingstone; the British explorer was the first white man, in 1855, to explore the area and to encounter the Falls.

The main crossing point of the Zambezi at the time was above the falls by dugout canoe at the Old Drift. As the Old Drift crossing became more used, a British

colonial settlement sprang up there and around 1897 it became the first administrative centre in what was, then, known as Northern Rhodesia. Proximity to the river, though, caused dozens of malarial fatalities and so, in 1900, the Europeans moved to higher ground, hence the birth of Livingstone town and an explanation as to why it is slightly separated from the river. The town prospered from its position as a gateway to trade between north and south sides of the Zambezi. British settlers established a substantial community and the town thrived. Today it is sustained by the booming tourist trade that has developed around the Falls but the character of old Livingstone, in the architecture and town layout, endures as testimony to its historical hayday.

There are plenty of places to stay in and around

Livingstone, in town, out of town and strung along the river to both the north and south of town. You can buy a bed from as little as a few bucks to as much as 500. The 500 a nighters aren’t an option for us; I trail four in my travelling wake and a brief holiday in such exalted luxury would necessitate a mortgage. I chose, on this occasion, Bushbuck River House, tucked away 20 kms upriver and home to Oriel and Alan who come from England and were generous with their time and hospitality. Breakfast, in particular, was a highlight, here were a couple who knew what 21 year old sons eat and don’t shirk on the eggs, bacon and sausages. They have been in Zambia for almost twenty years so, helpfully, know what they are talking about when it comes to the Falls which is handy because one could come undone with the options. And the prices. Could we, I asked Oriel, arrange a trip to Devil’s Pool where, I understood, we could swim. I imagined bathing behind the veil of spray. She enquired. Alas the water, after two months of heavy rain, was already too high for that. What about bungee jumping enquired eldest

daughter, ‘I definitely want to bungee jump’, she said. Oriel looked doubtful. Are you sure? She asked. Daughter nodded eagerly. You know, said Oriel gently, you have to pay before they rig you up and if you chicken out at the last minute, you won’t get a refund. Really? Exclaimed daughter, looking less enthusiastic about the adrenalin fuelled excursion she’d apparently been committed to. Really, said Oriel sagely.

The next morning, when the sun shone obligingly and the sky was rinsed blue, we took ourselves off to explore the Falls on the north side of the river. You know they’re coming long before you see them from the roar and what looks like a dense pall of smoke above them which fudges the azure of a morning sky and is illuminated white against the charcoal backdrop of an afternoon’s approaching storm: locally the Falls are called “Mosi oa Tunya’, the smoke which thunders

and the descriptive name could not be more apt.

The argument - as to which side offers the best view of the Falls - rages. For my money though, and as a – for now – Zambian resident that amounted to a mere KR5 (less than a dollar, though for non resident 21 year old son that soared to 20 bucks), it’s definitely my side. The Zambian side.

About two thirds of the Victoria Falls frontage is on the Zimbabwean side and so the views over there are apparently more picturesque. But the Zambian side offers better close-ups and the chance to cross the Knife-Edge Bridge. The Zambian side is also the side that lends access to Devil’s Pool which I only discovered then, as I watched those thousands of litres of water plunge 107 meters down (from a breadth of 1 708 meters, making the Falls are the greatest curtain of water in the world) is not at the base of the Falls as I had assumed, but right at the top, immediately before the tipping point. Later YouTube lent the insight experience, thankfully, had not. I have never been more grateful that an excursion had been withdrawn from the menu. The nutters who actually get into Devil’s Pool can stick their heads over the edge and look right down the falls. Not surprisingly, the odd one does go over.

The Zambian side offers several fantastic vantage points so that you can view the Falls, which are truly - as opposed to being clichéd - breathtaking, getting drenched for the spray that surges upwards (take a plastic bag for your camera), walk the Knife Edge (or shuffle along it, hanging onto the rails with both hands without looking down as I – with a sickening fear of heights - did much to my family’s mirth) or stand and marvel at the fabulous engineering of the Victoria Falls Bridge and the mindblowing recklessness of the bungee jumpers who hurl themselves from it every few minutes. I recounted to the daughter who was by now firmly decided in her resolution to

fALLING fOR A feSTIVALBy Anthea Rowan

Victoria Falls Hotel

Bungee jumping

Spray rising from the falls


pay for an adrenalin kick that day, the story of the Australian tourist who leapt off the bridge only to have her rope snap. She crashed into the water beneath, her feet still tied together. Astonishingly her injuries were relatively superficial. Even more astonishingly she didn’t sue anybody; instead she now generates considerable income by delivering talks about how young travellers must take out travel insurance. The Zambian Minister for Tourism stepped up to the plate and, to demonstrate to the world at large that bungee jumping is generally, despite appearances, very safe, also hurled head first off the bridge. Happily for the country’s tourist trade, and for him, he boinged back up.

The bridge was the brainchild of Cecil Rhodes who gave his name to that part of the world then; Rhodesia. It was part of his lofty and, as it turned out, unfulfilled Cape to Cairo railway plan, even though he never visited the falls and died before construction of the bridge began. Rhodes’ instructions to the bridge’s engineers were to “build the bridge across the Zambezi where the trains, as they pass, will catch the spray of the Falls”. The bridge was built in England, before being shipped to Beira in Mozambique and transported on the new railway up to the Falls. It took just 14 months to construct and was completed in 1905. It was opened by Professor George Darwin, the son of Charles Darwin on 12 September the same year.

Constructed from steel, it sports an enormous, graceful arch. You can do a tour of the bridge, safety harnessed you can scamper amongst those huge metal struts whilst you listen to the tale of this extraordinary engineering feat. Or you can stand, as I did, and gaze upon its elegance from safe terrafirma distance. And then, to reward yourself for being brave enough to creep across the Knife Edge, you can have lunch at the Royal Livingstone and a G&T on the deck by the river whilst the Zambezi slips by towards it’s big fling and your children say over and over, ‘aw man mum, I wish we were staying here’.

Even if you aren’t venturing into Zimbabwe as we were – and presumably even if you’re in Zim and don’t want to pay for the visa to enter Zambia – you can walk onto the bridge and view the falls and gorge from your suspended position. Immigration will tell you sternly that you can only go half way, presumably only venturing as far as your prevailing immigration

position will allow. I can assure you, nobody’s looking. Walk right across. And – if you dare (and I didn’t) peer down at the bungee platform, the (clearly empty?) heads of waiting jumpers and fend off the touts selling you souvenirs and safaris.

Sixteen years ago the Zambians came south to shop. Now the Zims head north to stores that are bursting with imported produce. But the hotels are still busy and the skies are still noisy, from dawn til dusk, with the sound of the Choppers that take guests on the Flight of the Angels.

There are lots of places to eat and drink and sleep here. But the very best is, indubitably, the grand old Victoria Falls Hotel, for sheer opulence and glorious old fashioned grandeur. We trotted the children in there for lunch (which means the snack menu with extra plates of chips) and their mouths fell open, ‘aw man man, I wish we were staying here’.

The view from the Vic Falls hotel is stupendous, across the gorge to that magnificent bridge. A

resident family of warthog enjoyed the security of a palatial home with sweeping lawns. A minister stopped by for lunch and demanded that his table be relocated to the same lawns, beneath the sprawling shade of a huge fig. I don’t think there was a single guest who didn’t smirk when the rain came down …

There is stacks to do in and around the Falls. None of its cheap. You can take a river cruise, as we did, only to be disappointed that we stayed firmly in the middle of the Zambezi and didn’t go anywhere near the banks from where we might have seen some game. I worried less about not seeing game than when the boat’s captain would turn us around so the boat wasn’t facing the same way as the water that went rushing over the edge of the falls was. You can visit the game park; we did that too and marvelled at the number of elephants we came upon lying down to take a nap in the shade. You can white water raft, we didn’t do that as none of us had the right shoes to hike down into or back up the gorge, a significant climb (at an hour plus) and an unpleasant one in flipflops. You can even dive with crocs and we – perhaps misguidedly – agreed that the children could

Livingstone wrap around verandah

Napping Elephant

do that. For the few minutes they spent in a cage in rather murky water with a couple of rather too well fed and clearly very bored crocs, I cannot be certain it was worth the $60 a head, except, I suppose for the Facebook Kudos accrued? When we’d finished Croc diving we went to the crocodile farm and saw what happened to crocs who aren’t used to lure tourists into cages; they get turned into handbags.

The Festival wasn’t what I expected it would be when I rashly bought the tickets. It was rather more what I’d feared it might after daughter revealed her friend’s (laughable) suggestion that ancient decrepit parents might be ‘wild’. It was well organized, brilliantly organized, particularly given the faded, jaded state of the town itself and hugely well attended. But most people were about 105 years younger than me. Our children were very kind and

treated their fossilized parents with deference and sweetly suggested we go back to our hotel shortly after we’d seen the New Year in. They pretended they’d had enough. If you’re 18 to 28 and don’t mind standing up – and staying up – all night, it’s worth it. Me? I’ll retire the rock chick gear.

If the children were disappointed to be subjected to an early night, they never let on. I suspect that might have been because as impressive as the Festival might have been (if you’re about 105 years younger than me), the Falls – one of the seven natural wonders of the world along with the Great Barrier Reef and the Grand Canyon - are a whole lot more impressive. Even when you’re 19.

I also suspect my kids had the savvy to remember who their lift home was with …

Must do’s in Victoria Falls

Walk the bridge, watch the bungee hoists, marvel at the incredible engineering

Do both sides if you can. And if you do, eat lunch at either the Livingstone Royal, Zambezi side or at the Victoria Falls Hotel where even the loos are posh and the view is directly across the gorge to the bridge.

Come prepared to White Water Raft, have the necessary kit and the money. We weren’t prepared and it was a source of disappointment. Being a public holiday, Bata wasn’t open for tackies.

The other thing we didn’t do but I wished I had, was the Flight of the Angels so that you can get a bird’s eye perspective on this extraordinary sight and see from above how the river spills over the edge into the gorge.

Behind the Spray – that’s the one I meant to do, not Devil’s Pool: swimming and walking at the base of the Falls towards the curtain of water. There was too much of it coming over the edge when we visited mid rainy season.

Best time to visit: May to September. ❏

Where’s his mama?

What happens to grown up crocs?

39Zambian Traveller November/December 2013

Resident warthogs

40 November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller

At one of the most spectacular and colourful launches ever seen in Lusaka, Southern

Cross Motors Limited unveiled their new range of FUSO trucks which will give the FUSO brand fresh impetus by addressing product segments that were not previously accessible.

Addressing guests from both private and public sectors at the launch ceremony held at Lusaka’s Gymkhana Club. Southern Cross Motors Limited General Manager, Mr. Rudi Botha, explained that The Mitsubishi FUSO Truck & Bus Company of Japan and Daimler India Commercial Vehicles, have joined forces as Daimler Trucks Asia under a new Business Model.

This new FUSO range is the product of extensive research and development between two global manufacturing giants of commercial trucks, namely Daimler India Commercial Vehicles, a 100 percent owned subsidiary of Daimler AG in Stuttgart, and The Mitsubishi FUSO Truck & Bus Corporation in Japan.

The all-new FUSO truck range comprises 5 new models; the light medium duty FA and FI series with a GVW between 9-16 tons and the medium-heavy duty FJ, FO and FZ series with a GVW between 25-49 tons.

These trucks will be exported and sold through MFTBC’s global network to a total of 15 markets in Asia and Africa during the first phase. They were firstly launched in Sri Lanka and then in Kenya last month, so Zambia is proud to be the second country in Africa and the third country in the world to receive these trucks.

Other intended markets include; Bangladesh, Brunei, Indonesia, Thailand, Malasia, Tanzania, Malawi, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Mauritius and the Sechelles following closely.

SOUTHERN CROSS MOTORS LAUNCHES NEW RANGE OF FUSO TRUCKS IN ZAMBIA

In attendance of the launch, was Mr. Joachim Schalk from Daimler AG, who is the Regional Sales Manager for the FUSO brand in Africa. Additionally two experts from Daimler India, Mr. Selvakumar and Mr. Kesavanand were on hand to answer any technical questions guests may have had on these new trucks. Mr. Schalk then previewed a video of the multi-million US dollar new production plant in India which will produce these new FUSO work horses. His introductory remarks, stressed the importance that the company attaches to the issue of quality.

Guests were excited to learn that Zambian technical and sales staff have already undergone training in Chennai India in their respective fields of specialisation, and were well geared to attend to any queries customers might have.

Additionally, Southern Cross’s workshops and parts departments in both Lusaka and Kitwe were more than prepared to handle the exciting new FUSO range of trucks.

A very comprehensive initial parts consignment had also been approved by Daimler and would be arriving in Zambia shortly.

This will provide exiciting and interesting options for all commercial truck operators in Zambia.

Southern Cross Motors Limited General Manager, Mr. Rudi Botha

Daimler AG Regional Sales Manager for the FUSO brand in

Africa - Mr. Joachim Schalk

November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller42 41

By James Durrell

She was one of the fastest and most elegant sailing ships ever to grace the mighty oceans. A hundred and

thirty years ago, the ship which brought the first annual cargo of tea in Britain, made a small fortune, but when the race began, the nation followed its every move. The 10,000 mile event, through some of the world’s most tempestuous seas became an enduring test of stamina, determination and seamanship. Giant waves would break over her slim bow and run along her wooden deck. She was tossed about the angry sea and cold, wet, tired, barefoot sailors balanced on cross spars, 100 feet above the desks to raise and lower sails, in appalling weather conditions.

From the 1850s, competition between Britain and America was fierce in the China tea trade. High premiums were charged for the first shipment of tea to reach London and New York. By winning these “tea races”, merchants and ship owners made huge sums of money. The competition led to a boom in the production of fast and agile vessels capable of exploiting the winds and tides of the southern oceans.

The Cutty Sark was built for John Willis to be the fastest

THe CuTTY SARK...…THe CLASSIC CLIPPeR

Of YeSTeRYeAR.

clipper on the China tea route. Her design was taken from the classic American ‘clipper’ design, with numerous modifications to make her sail faster and handle better. Willis insisted that the best materials were used in building the ship and carefully followed her construction.

She was launched at Dumbarton, Scotland on 22nd November 1869. She was recorded to have reached speeds of 17 and a half knots and her best day’s run was logged at 363 nautical miles, averaging 15 knots. On another occasion she sailed 2,165 miles in six days and later, 3,457 miles in eleven days. She could make good time whatever the tide, wind or seas. She weighed 920 tons, was 212 feet long, 36 feet wide and 21 feet deep, sharp and high in the bow, low amidships with a bevelled deck and open gunwales to allow seawater out. Her raised quarterdeck and wheel section gave all round visibility and above deck, she was a complex and fascinating jumble of masts, spars, yards, gaffs and miles of rigging. Totally wind powered, swift and nimble……a leopard of the sea.

The strange name is taken from Robert Burns poet, ‘Tam o’ shanter’, where a Tam, farmer, is chased by a pretty young witch, dressed only in her cutty sark (short dress). The young witch is represented as the ship’s figurehead.

The ‘clippers’ (so called because they clipped time off established trade routes) were design originally around America’s Chesapeake Bay, they were tall and slim and employed and enormous sail area. The basic hull form has a heart-shaped in the mid-section with a short keel and strongly raked stern and stem outline, and a low-sided and sharp-bowed hull.

Below decks she was basic with her holds, galley and cabins constructed for maximum stowage and economy rather than style and comfort.

She had a crew of master and 28 seamen and was intended for fast and long distance service. She immediately went into service on the China tea routes and from 1870 until 1877 she frequently made the journey from Shanghai to London in just over a hundred days.

The opening of the Suez canal and the introduction of steam ships made her redundant almost from the day she was launched and her owners were soon obliged to seek cargo’s and payloads elsewhere. She next carried general cargo in trans-Atlantic and home waters for five years. In 1885 she began sailing the Australian wool trade, and it was on this hard route that she proved she was the fastest ship of her time. On a passage from Newcastle, New South Wales to Deal in Kent, she covered the distance in a mere 82 days.

But that wool trade too gave way to steam and in 1895 she was sold to the Portuguese Navy where she served as the training ship Ferirra. She was re-rigged as a barquetine after being de-masted in a storm off the Cape of Good Hope in 1916.

In 1922 she was bought by a Captain Dowman who brought her back into British service when restored her to use as a stationary, merchant training ship, first in Falmouth and in 1938 in London. She was later donated to the Royal Navy and following some repairs and restoration, she was used for many years as a naval cadet training vessel on the Thames.

In 1953, her sailing days finally at an end, she was handed over, free of charge, to the Cutty Sark Preservation Society who began major restoration works and sited her in a dry-dock designed and built specially to receive her.

She was badly damaged by fire on 21 May 2007. Fortunately, she was undergoing restoration work at the time and about fifty per cent of the ship had been removed, including the figurehead, the masts and rigging, the coach house, and much of her planking, so the damage was limited. After nearly five years of repairs, costing a King’s ransom, Her Majesty The Queen and Prince Phillip, officially re-opened the Cutty Sark on 25 April 2012.

She is as magnificent as ever. ❏

Zambian Traveller November/December 2013

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45November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller44 Zambian Traveller November/December 2013

ZT - Panama 10/4/13 12:03 PM Page 1

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“I’m a strong critic of the conduct of foreign investmentin our mining industry in Panama. However, what Ihave seen here is highly impressive, and provides atemplate of how the mines must run in our nation,”said Dana Castenadas, a Panama lawmaker who isleading the delegation on a five-day familiarisationmission of FQM operations in Zambia.

“FQM must bring this sort ofexperience and expertise that allowsit to quickly develop large-scalemining projects in a relatively shorttime and below the cost norms. Thiswill be of great benefit to the peopleof Panama. For us, the Cobra projectis the second largest initiative to beundertaken after the construction of the PanamaCanal.”

FQM through its recent took over the development ofCobra, a copper deposit in Panama through its acquitionof Inmet. Randy Findlay, FQM Construction Managerat Sentinel told the Panama delegation that thestrengthen of Zambia’s largest copper producer lies inits ability to assemble a multinational team of expertscoupled by a structured skills and technology transferto host nations, a process it solely manages withoutcontractors from start to end.

In a related development Castenadas described Zambia’sexperience in making the mining industry morecompetitive in the post-privatisation era as positive andinstructive to her nation.

“The mining sector in Zambia has made great progressin rejuvenating the once-low performing industry, andprovides valuable lessons for Panama,” Castenadastold Christopher Yaluma, Minister of Mines and Energy.

Yaluma said that his government was determined toattract greater investment in the mining sector throughpolicies that helped to reduce cost of production andincrease the ease of doing business.

“We are determined to make our mining sectorattractive to investors by reducing the cost of productionand make it easier to do business.” The minister alsonoted that Zambia's subscription to the ExtractiveInternational Transparency Initiative (EITI) had createda platform for Zambians to hold governmentaccountable on use of earnings from the nation'smineral wealth and judge the contributions of themining companies to their welfare.

“EITI is an important process of addressing the prudentuse of earnings from mineral resources. It helps tomake government accountable to the public. Conversely,mining companies are also judged if they were givingZambians fair and equitable benefits.”

On protection of the environment,Yaluma said that his governmentwas striving towards a moreharmonious situation whereEnvironmental Impact Assessmentapprovals did not 'kill' a businessplan. “There must be upfrontdefinition of requirements andtimeframe for resolution. It has to

be proactive, not open-ended.”

General Kingsley Chinkuli, FQM Country Managerechoed Yaluma noting that alignment of the MiningAct and Land Act will create a more attractiveenvironment for business. “On the part of FQM, thecompany has consistently applied bestpractice and international norms.”

Christopher Yaluma, Minister of Mines & Energy (in black suit) with theDana Castenadas, a lawmaker from Panama on his right flanked byFQM and Kansanshi Mine top brass.

Second from right, Dana Castenadas, a Panama lawmaker during atour of Kansanshi Mine that is co-owned FQM and Government of theRepublic of Zambia (GRZ) - 80 and 20 percent, respectively.

FQM’s Sentinel wows Panama

Co

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any

New

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entinel Mine, a $2 billion copper deposit being constructed by First Quantum Minerals (FQM)is 10 months ahead of schedule and on budget, impressing a six-person delegation from

Panama where a similar project had been mired in delays and escalating costs before it wasrecently acquired by FQM.

S

“What you see here is what we willreplicate in Panama – quickly bringthe Cobra project to fruition at a

relatively lower cost,” said Findlaywho has 30 years of global

experience in constructing large-scale mines.

ZT_Heart_day 10/4/13 3:22 PM Page 1

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ECG tests measure how fast one’'D5s heart is beatingand whether it is beating normally. It also measuresany damage to the heart.

The exercise was against a backdrop of rising cases ofcardiac related diseases attributed to sedentary lifestyles.

“We believe that journalists can play an important roleof creating greater awareness of our initiatives to curbthe rising cases of cardiac related diseases,” said DrThomas Kapakala, a paediatrician at the clinic.

Dr Kapakala said he was more alarmed by the fact thatobesity in children was on a rise, making the majority

of them candidates for heart diseases.

“The statistics of obesity in children was alarmingpointing to sedentary lifestyles and consumption offast foods as the source.”

He recommended regular ECG tests and exercise tokeep in check the rising cases of heart diseases inZambia.

Mary Begg Clinic is at the forefront of cardiac trainingcare in Africa. It is the only clinic outside of South Africathat is offering cardiac care training at par with theAmerican Heart Association (AHA).

Curbing heart diseases:FQM for healthy lifestyles

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irst Quantum Minerals (FQM) marked the World Heart Day that was observed on SundaySeptember 29, 2013 by giving free electrocardiogram (ECG) tests to journalists at its Ndola

Mary Begg Memorial Clinic.F

From right, Dr Thomas Kapakala, apediatrician at FQM's Mary Begg MemorialClinic in Ndola supervising an ECG testfor Benedict Tembo, a Zambia Daily Mailsenior staffer on World Heart Day. Lookingon is one of the nursing staff at the clinic.

November/December 2013 Zambian Traveller46 Zambian Traveller November/December 47

the term ‘Crop circle’ is applied to the geometric designs, usually very large, artistic and complex,

which appear in wheat and cereal fields in central England and the American plains. Intricate, symmetrical, artistic and often spread across the length and breadth of the entire field, they were undisputedly, highly attractive and artistic. Within a field of waving corn, golden in the high summer sun, suddenly and without warning or explanation, came a huge trampled pattern of circles, rings and connecting arms or stems. Visually stunning and changing colour with the sun’s rays, word spread quickly and hundreds would travel across the land to view the latest work of art.

When they first appeared, during the mid ‘70s, they were thought to be either the work of aliens from another galaxy, paranormal activity or divine intervention, and they caused a great deal of interest and concern. They always seems to appear overnight and there was no residual evidence, footprints, mechanical equipment, machinery or gear to explain who, or what had caused them.

The farmers were understandably irked at the damage to their crops but the press reported the happenings with gusto and public speculation ran wild. Numerous explanations were put forward by some of the best brains and authorities from all aspects of academia. Letters appeared in the press offering a wide range of theories and explanations. Some sections of society thought that the designs are illustrated messages by from aliens others added that people living in distant galaxies were trying to communicate with us using ancient Egyptian figure and signs.

Some believed that the circles were warnings from Gods were angry with the earth dwellers who were destroying the planet. Theories abounded, becoming ever-more imaginative and speculative and it seemed everyone had an opinion.

Eventually, after over 250 crop circles had mysteriously appeared in England alone, a group of pranksters, armed with nothing more than a rough sketch, simple measuring equipment and ‘flattening boards’ made from short planks, admitted responsibility. The ‘artists’ would arrive at the chosen site dusk and as the light faded, drive in a centre post and then, armed only a short board, with held down with the foot and supported by string handles at each end and connected to a ‘centre post’, with a long rope, they began the long process of flattening and levelling the waist high corn. As the ‘flatteners’ worked, so the

Today’s artists don’t all work in cramped studios or paint on small canvass, some

work in the open, with natural materials and some of them think – the bigger the better!

By Jack Francis.

designer was measuring and laying out the next stage next phase of the operation.

They preferred to operate on a cloudless night with a full moon but knew that a couple of well placed lanterns or high powered torches would provide sufficient light to work with. As the summer sun rose at an early hour, they knew they would have enough light to finish the task and make any last minute alterations and adjustments long before the farmer hauled himself from his slumbers.

They also knew that they would be able to retire to a higher point to admire and photograph their handiwork and spirit themselves safely away over the hills before any sharp-eyed countryman could realise what shenanigans had been going on during the hours of darkness.

And sure enough, the latest majestic, mystery creation (or classic masterpiece) would be reported to the national press by some innocent ‘bumpkin’ which would bring a mass of reporters, photographers and film crews racing across country to the view and record the unexplained phenomena.

After months of speculation when fantasies, imaginations and daydreaming really did get out of hand and a lot of very educated and knowledgeable people, who ought to have known a lot better, the crop circle trickster/creators stepped forward to claim the prize - and accept responsibility. The farmers were still rightly irked at the damage to their crops and the loss of income, but perhaps for a brief period, some very clever and artistic designs were captured on camera.

Is it a new idea? The earliest recorded image claimed to be a crop circle is depicted in a 17th century English woodcut referred to as the ‘Mowing Devil’. It depicts old Satan swinging his scythe and cutting a circular design in a field of oats. It is suggested that the farmer, angry at the high wages demanded by his reapers, insisted that he would prefer to have the devil himself doing the work!

Perhaps now that the crop circle mystery has been solved, the practise will end and the open air art form will quietly slip into the history books, or maybe the ‘artists’ will devise another imaginative, outdoor concept. ❏

CROP CIRCLeS

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GeNeRAl KNowledGe Quiz ANSweRS

from page 16

CRoSSwoRd & SudoKu SolutioNS

from page 16

1. 2.

3. 4.

tHe SNowMAN• Where does a snowman keep his money?

In a snow bank!• What do snowmen eat for breakfast?

Snowflakes.• What is Frosty the Snowman’s favorite cereal?

Ice Crispies.• What do snowmen wear on their heads?

Ice caps.• Where do snowmen find out information?

The Winternet!

A SnowmAn

1. Kennedy.

2. Kansas.

3. Kenneth Starr.

4. Kevin Costner.

5. Kiki Dee.

6. Kentucky.

7. Karaoke.

8. Kennel.

9. Kernel.

10. Keypad.

11. Kibbutz.

12. Kabeljou.

13. Kamikaze.

14. Kangaroo.

15. Kedgeree.

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Sustaining Business in a Changing Environment

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FOR BOOKINGS

+260 (0) 211 254 605 (Zambia)+27 (0) 21 430 5300 (South Africa)

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LET’S EXPLORE ZAMBIA.

ZAMBIA IS HOME TO THE WILD ZAMBEZI RIVER, THE LEGENDARY AFRICAN WALKING SAFARI, AWE-INSPIRING LAKES, A PROFUSION OF BIRDS, WILDLIFE AND THE FAMOUS COPPERBELT REGION ARE AMONGST THE MANY ATTRACTIONS OF THIS WARM AND FRIENDLY COUNTRY.

Experience the buzz of Lusaka, Zambia’s capital city, at Protea Hotel Cairo Road and Protea Hotel Lusaka. View the great Copperbelt town of Chingola with a stay at Protea Hotel Chingola or stay in a private game reserve at Protea Hotel Safari Lodge. Protea Hotel Livingstone offers a wide range of adventure activities, from river rafting to abseiling, excellent Tiger fi shing, and is situated only 10 minutes from the “smoke that thunders” – Victoria Falls. En route to South Luangwa National Park or Malawi you can experience affordable luxury at Protea Hotel Chipata.

Southern Belle, one of the largest houseboats in southern Africa, is located on Lake Kariba in Zambia, which is renowned for its stunning sunsets and spectacular stargazing. A unique cruising experience on one of the largest man-made lakes in the world.

PROTEA HOTEL LIVINGSTONELIVINGSTONE

PROTEA HOTEL LUSAKALUSAKA

PROTEA HOTEL CAIRO ROAD LUSAKA

PROTEA HOTEL CHIPATACHIPATA

Documents

Zambian Traveller 81