Zambian Traveller 85

8/11/2019 Zambian Traveller 85

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Your personal copy to take away


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Features4-5 Mopani completes Mufulira Smelter

Upgrade Project ahead of schedule

6-8 Mopani puts up the best ever Zambia

Open Golf Tournament

10-13 Spion Kop an Acre of Massacre

18-19 FQM puts people and the environment

first for posperity beyond Zambias

Jubilee

20 Mining Taxation - Zambias revenue from

mines swells22-23 Zambezi trekker David Lemon enters

Mozambique

26-28 India for first timers

30-33 Into the Tigers Lair

34-37 Simulating a Honeymoon in

Stone Town

38-39 Neuvo Cuisine !

40-41 Dick Tiger - African Legend

42-43 Photo focus: 57th Copperbelt Mining,

Agricultu ral and Comme rcial Show

46 CACSS 2014 Judging Results

Regulars2-3 Map of Zambia

16 Sudoku, Crossword & Quiz

44 Birds of Zambia - Barn Owl

47 Recipes

48 Crossword & Quiz answers

Kids Corner

CoverMopani completes Mufulira Smelter Upgrade

Project ahead of schedule

Editor Sean Potter

Advertising: Sean PotterHelen Walden

George Makulu

Administration: Val Potter

Distribution: Helen Walden George Makulu Moses Chirwe

Design & Layouts: Stan Potter

Contributors:

Anthea Rowan

Anthony Dalton

Cephas Sinyangwe

Chikwe Chiluba

Dan Boylan

Davis Mulenga

Dick Jones

First Quantum Minerals

Gethsemane MwizabiGeorge Makulu

Godfrey Msiska

Humphrey Lombe

Humphrey Nkonde

Kansanshi Mining plc

Kate Nivison

Kelvin Mukupa

Konkola Copper Mines

Lechwe School

Mopani Mining

Roy Kausa

Shapi Shachinda

Tom Cockrem

T.W. Jenkins

William Osborn

Zambian Ornithological Society

REPUBLIC OF SOUTH AFRICASean Potter38 Mandy Road, Reuven 2091,

Johannesburg, RSAP.O. Box 82117, Southdale 2135, RSATel: +27 (0) 83 522 0144

Fax: +27 (0) 86 517 5972e-mail: [email protected]

ZAMBIA:

Copperbelt:Helen WaldenP.O. Box 22255, Kitwe, Zambia.

Tel: +260 (0) 21 2 226 378Cell: +260 (0) 977 746 177E-mail: [email protected]

Lusaka:George MakuluP.O. Box 34537, Lusaka, Zambia.Cell: +260 (0) 976 949 219

E-mail: [email protected]

The views expressed are not necessarily those of the

publisher, who takes no responsibility for the accuracyor reliability of the information supplied with particular

reference to financial data, trading prices and advice given.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a

retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means,

electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise

without the prior written permission of the Copyright owner.

Published and copyrightby Logivest42 (Pty)Ltd

Website:www.thezambiantraveller.com

July/August 2014

Issue No. 85

CONTENTS10 Spion Kop

26 India

22 David Lemon

34 Stone Town

38 Neuvo Cuisine!

44 Barn Owl

(ZMW)

8 billion

6 billion

4 billion

2 billion

02008 2009 2010 2011

AllguresinrebasedKwacha

Payments by companies

Received by GRZ

1,7

37,1

50,0

00

1,7

24,8

50,0

00

2,6

03,7

46,0

00

2,5

72,3

02,0

00

3,7

85,3

19,0

00

3,7

94,1

30,0

00

7,6

72,9

27,0

00

7,7

21,7

71,0

00

The Zambian mining sector contributed to 31.5% of GRZ

revenue in 2011.The mining sector directly contributed to 9.5% of GDP with anestimated indirect contribution* of as much as 50%.*Contribution through economic activity associated with mining developments and operations.

Miningrevenuesnearly doubledin

2011incomparison to2010.

Inclusiveinthe revenuefor 2011are

paymentsofarrears arisingfrom

increasesintaxandroyaltyratesin

2008.

165% increaseinrevenuefrom corpo-

rationtaxdue toa number ofcompa-

niescomingto anend oftheir capital

allowances.

Receiptsfrom royaltiesalmosttrebled.

7% increaseincopper production.

17% increaseinmetal pricesdrivenby

demandfrom Asia,particularlyChina.

2011 HIGHLIGHTS:mining;2009-2011

83%of all mining revenues collected in 2011 with KansanshiMining Plc making the biggest contribution amounting to 56% ofall mining revenues

Total Extractive

Tax Revenue 2011

ZMW 7,721,771,000

Other

17%

KonkolaCopper

MinesPlc

10.5%

Lumwana

Mining

CompanyLtd

9%

MopaniCopper

MinesPlc

7.5%

Kansanshi

MiningPlc

56%

www.zeiti.org

www.facebook.com/zambiaeiti

ReconciliationZambia Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative4th

ZEITI

companies and civil society working together to

improve openness and accountable management of

revenues from natural resources. Zambia became

a candidate nation in 2009, and became fully compliant

in 2012. Zambia's next validation is due before September 2017.

is part of the global coalition of governments,

The

30 Tigers Lair

Your personalcopyto take away

ZT 8 5.indd 1 2014/ 06/09 8:0 8 A


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The US$500 million Mufulira Smelter Upgrade

Project was completed on 31 March 2014, 15 months

ahead of schedule thereby improving the capture

of sulphur dioxide emissions that have affected the

area for over 70 years, to 97 percent international

standards.

Mopani Copper Mines Plc invested over US$500

million into the project which was done in three

phases to address the legacy issue of Sulphur dioxide

emissions which were at 100 percent from 1937 to

Glencores investment in 2000.

MOPANI COMPLETES MUFULIRA SMELTER

UPGRADE PROJECT AHEAD OF SCHEDULE

Mopani committed to upgrading the smelter to comply

with international standards just after the acquisition

of the asset in 2000.

At the time of acquisition, the Mufulira smelter was

emitting 100 percent of its sulphur dioxide emissions

into the atmosphere. A decision was made to build

a new state of the art smelter within the connes of

the existing smelter, whilst increasing production and

maintaining job stability, two key areas of government

focus.

One option we had involved closing the processingplant, which would have enabled us to complete the

work earlier but would have resulted in around 900

job losses at the time, with a major impact on the local

economy, which is heavily reliant on the operation.

The second and more viable option was to keep the

plant operational and upgrade the smelter in stages,

Mr Danny Callow, Mopani Copper Mines Plc Chief

Executive Ofcer recalls.

Mr Callow describes the smelter upgrade project

as one of the biggest environmental projects ever

undertaken in Zambia.

He explained that: The entire project was divided

into three stages with the rst

phase being completed in 2007

which involved replacing the

existing Electric furnace with Isa

Smelt and construction of an Acid

Plant at the cost of US$ 213m,enabling the capture of emissions

of 50 percent.

In the second phase, two new

bigger anode furnaces and twin

anode casting wheels were

installed at a value of US$81m

and successfully commissioned

in 2009. With the completion of

phases one and two, the Smelter

capacity improved to about

625,000 tpa concentrate treatment

from 420,000 tpa, whilst Sulphur

capture improved to 51 percent.

He further explained that the third

and nal phase which involved

the installation of three larger

converters (15X35), assorted gas

handling equipment and a second

Acid Plant all costing US$206

million, was completed in March

this year, 15 months ahead of

schedule agreed with the Zambian

Government.

Mr Callow said the completion

of the Mufulira Smelter Upgrade Project will resultin a greatly improved environment for the local

community and Mopani employees.

Mr Callow said: The completion of the smelter

upgrade is a tremendous achievement, not only for

the company, but for the surrounding community.

The work was completed ahead of schedule and

without disruption to production or local employment,

generating stability and jobs growth in addition to

better living standards for Mufulira residents. I look

forward to our continued co-operation with the local

community and the Zambian government as part of

our ongoing operations at Mufulira.

July/August 2014Zambian Traveller4 Zambian Traveller July/August 2014 5


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The Mopani Copper Mines Zambia Open Golf Tournament

came to a close with a South African, Wallie Coetsee,

emerging as overall winner of the tournament that came

with a whopping US$250,000 in prize money and 4

vehicles for four hole-in-one prizes. Coetsee had not

won a major trophy for 17 years and this was indeed an

emotional moment for him.

I have no words to describe how I feel. This is very

emotional for me. I tried hard. I knew that victory was close

and today I used my 22 years of experience to win this trophy.

I played like I practice every day and here I am, I made it. I

am so glad! screamed Coetsee with great emotion.

This years tournament has been described as the best so

far by the Sunshine Tour who commended the organising

committee for the wonderful prizes and the meticulous

way every detail was taken care.

You made my work and that of my team so much easier

that I could sit back and relax knowing that everything

was under control. Well done and keep it up, said Dan

Zwiebel, Sunshine Tour Tournament Director at the close

of the magnicent event.

The 2014 Zambia Open Golf Tournament which was

powered by Mopani Copper Mines Plc was held at Nkana

Golf Club for the rst time with the highest budget of

US$1 million, the highest prize money of US$250, 000

and the largest number of motor vehicles. This was the

best package ever staked on the Sunshine Tour outside of

South Africa.

MOPANI PUTS UP THE BEST EVER

ZAMBIA OPEN GOLF TOURNAMENT

MOP

ANICOPPERMINES

ZAMBIAOPEN 2

014

Wallie Coetsee - tournament winner

Tournament winner Wallie Coetsee with Vice President G uy

Scott and Minister of Sport, Chishimba Kambwili

6 7July/August 2014Zambian Traveller Zambian Traveller July/August 2014

Beauty by nature

Zambian emeralds by Gemfields, the worlds leading

supplier of responsibly sourced coloured gemstones.

gemfields.co.uk +44 (0)20 7518 3400

Mila Kunisphotographed by Peter Lindbergh


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A Jeep Cherokee was placed at hole number 3 with a

Hyundai IX 35 on the 7th . The 2014 model Toyota Corolla

waited graciously on the 11th and a metallic grey Fordanger posed on the 15th hole.

wo South Africans, Allan Versfeld and Jaco Prinsloo,

made two hole-in-ones to win a car each. Versfeld won a

maroon Jeep Cherokee while Prinsloo went away with a

ray Toyota Corolla.

he tournament proved too difcult for the Zambian

olfers who failed to make an impression.

rom the 26 Zambian players who included 12 professionals,

nly Ndola Golf Clubs Dayne Moore shined and was

warded US$5,000 for being the best Zamwbian player.

qually, the Brazilian defending Champion, Adilson Da

ilva, was not in his best form and had to surrender the

tle.

he 2014 golf tournament that was graced by the

epublican Vice President, Dr Guy Scott and Minister of

Youth and Sports, Chishimba Kambwili.

he great news is that the Zambia Open 2015 is coming

ack to Nkana Golf Club with a whopping US$300, 000

in prize money, courtesy of Mopani Copper Mines and

Redpath Mining. This announcement was made at the

closing ceremony of the Mopani Copper Mines ZambiaOpen 2014, another unprecedented move in the history of

the tournament.

Look out for sparks at the 2015 Zambia Open at Nkana

Golf Club.

Club Captain Musonda and ZOOC

Chairman Mutati pose with Coetsee

Zambia Open Organising Committee Chairman, Mr E.B Mutati

presents a gift to the Vice President during prize giving.

Versfeld Jeep Cherooke winner.

2 01 3 Cha mp io n Da S ilv a t ees off fro m th e 1 0t h Te e Org an is in g c ommit te e w it h t he Ch ampi on

Prinsloo by his new ToyotaCorolla

98 July/August 2014Zambian Traveller Zambian Traveller July/August 2014

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10 11July/August 2014Zambian Traveller

On 24 January 1900, in an area about the size of

Londons Trafalgar Square, the flat top of a rock-

strewn South African mountain became the killing field

for hundreds of infantrymen from three Lancashire

regiments.

When the Anglo-Boer War ended, the mountain

known as Spion Kop (spelt Spioenkop in Afrikaans)

was renamed the Acre of Massacre by historians

recording the carnage.

After receiv ing rei nforce ments until his a rmy in

Natal comprised 19 000 infantry, 3 000 cavalry

and 60 heavy guns, General Sir Redvers Buller had

abandoned his plan to lift the siege of Ladysmith by

trying to ford the Tugela River at Colenso and moved25 miles upstream to cross it over two pontoon

bridges at Potgiet ers and Trichardts Drifts. Once they

were over the Tugela, the cavalry galloped forward t o

turn the Boer right flank at Acton Homes while 16 000

British troops camped under the steep slopes of

Spion Kop.

Winston Churchill, reporting for the Morning Post,

said it was the general belief among the infantry that

if the cavalry continued their attack they could have

broken through the Boer lines and been followed by

the main force to advance over flat farmland to relieve

Ladysmith 17 miles away. However, Buller and his

staff were reluctant to do so because they feared

losing communications over a 30-mile front stretching

from the cavalry on the left to the infantry at the base

of Spion Kop on the right. Also, at any moment,

mounted Boers could break through the extended

Khaki Line, attack his forces from the rear and cut off

his supply lines. So, rather than use his cavalry in a

wide turning movement, Buller decided to shorten the

route to Ladysmith by pivoting on Spion Kop.

Bullers second in charge, Lt.-Gen. Sir Charles

Warren, ordered the attack on Spion Kop on the night

of 23 January when Lt.-Col. Alec Thorneycroft led 1700 men mainly the Royal Lancashire Fusiliers and

the Royal Lancaster Regiment plus his own colonial

volunteers of Thorneycrofts Mounted Infantry - to

their fate at the end of a hazardous 1 400ft. climb in

the pitch-black darkness and drizzle. The commander

of the attacking force, General E.R.P. Woodgate, gave

them orders not to talk or show any light and, if they

were attacked, they should not open fire but use their

bayonets.

As th e head of th e colu mn near ed the apparen t

crest, a large white spaniel came bounding towards

them. If it barked, all would be lost. A soldier grabbed

the dog, made a leash o ut of a rifles pull-through

cord, and a bugle boy took the spaniel to safety at the

foot of the mountain. The boy was certainly a lucky

lad, for Spion Kop was soon to become a place not fit

Richard Rhys Jones visits a famous KwaZulu-Natal battlefield where the infantrymen of Lancashire were decimated by Boer shells.

SPION KOP AN ACRE OF MASSACRE

for children, men or even dogs.

About 20 yar ds fro m the c rest the Br itish were

challenged with a guttural shout: Wie kom daar?

The in fantry men in stant ly thr ew them selve s down

as 17 Mausers opened fire. In the momentary

silence the British heard the click of rifle bolts as

the enemy reloaded. In that split second the order

Charge! was shouted and, with bayonets fixed,

the vanguard lurched forward through the misty

darkness. Seventeen surprised Boers of the Vryheid

Commando, who had not expected an attack up such

a precipitous slope, broke their cover and retreated,

but not before one was fatally bayoneted. Because of

the thick mist it was impossible for the British to usea lantern to signal to headquarters that the mountain

had been taken, so three resounding cheers were

given.

It was 4 a.m. on 24 January when the cheering

was heard by their comrades far below and, almost

immediately, the British artillery opened fi re on the

presumed Boer positions on Spion Kop.

Sappers of the Royal Engineers began trying to dig

entrenchments on the rocky, unforgiving ground with

picks and shovels, but it was an impossible task. The

trenches were so pitifully shallow that they afforded

little protection, and when dawn broke at 4-40 a.m.

the Royal Lancasters and South Lancashires were

ensconced as best they could on the left (west) flank,

Thorn eycrof ts Mount ed Infa ntry i n the m iddle , and t he

Lancashire Fusiliers on the right (east) flank.

Three hours later, whe n the sun ro lled u p the curtai n

of mist, the British were astonished to find that they

had not won the entire mountain but merely had a

precarious foothold on the edge of a small plateau

900 yards by 500 yards. They also

realised that their trenches should

have been dug about 400 yards

further forward to where the ridge

dropped sharply downwards to

2 000 concealed Boers.

The st ruggl e for poss essio n of

Spion Kop began when men of the

Carolina Commando on Aloe Knoll

sprang at the Lancashire Fusiliers

less than 200 yards away and

actually wrested

rifles from them

before they had

recovered from

their surprise.

Eight hundred

yards to the north

was Conical Hill,

to the north-

west was Green

Hill, and to the

east were the

Twin Peaks , all

occupied by Boer

artillery planning

the worst for

the unfortunate

soldiers of

Lancashire and

Thorn eycrof ts

dismounted infantrymen.

General Louis Botha, who

commanded the Spion Kop

defenders from his headquarters

behind Green Hill less than t wo

miles away, was informed by the

Vryheid burghe rs tha t the Khakis

had taken the Kop. Botha told

them: Well, we must take it back.

He ordered his long-range Krupp,

Creusots and pom-pom guns to

open fire, and they plastered t he

massed ranks of invaders from

three sides as the burghers re-grouped and climbed back up

the mountain. Rocks on the three

Boer-held sides of the plateau

shielded the commandos as they

crept to within 50 yards of the

exposed British and let rip with

their Mausers.

The La ncast rians on the right

flank were felled by bullets coming

at them from Aloe Knoll or were

blown to pieces by shells fired

from the three nearby hills until

the slaughter was awful to see.

In contrast to the accuracy of the

Boer artillerymen, the British heavy

guns firing from the s outh were

responsible for the deaths of some

of their own men and, at one stage

of the battle, some infantrymen

even dashed across to the Boer

positions to avoid their own shells.

Lt-Col. Thorneycroft (middle, without cap) with

three of his officers

The white cross on the right marks the spot where

General Woodgate fell mortally wounded. Twin

Peaks, where the Boers placed their artillery, can

be seen on the left .

A mem oria l to the Spion Kop

defenders who died in action

bears the n ames of 9 5 bu rgher s,

incl uding two membe rs o f th e

German Corps.


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12 13July/August 2014Zambian Traveller

General Woodgate moved encouragingly among his

men with consummate bravery but there was nothing

he could do to st em the dreadful butchery. Soon after

8-30 a.m. he was mortally wounded by a shell splinter

above the right eye and carr ied off by volunteer Indian

stretcher-bearers. His second and third in command

were then shot dead, leaving Colonel Malby Crofton,

CO of the Royal Lancasters, i n command. Crofton,

who was reportedly not a favouri te of Gen. Bullers,

found a signaller amid the chaos and ordered him tosend this message to HQ: Reinforce at once or all is

lost. General dead.

From his HQ on Mount Alice about four miles away,

Buller watched through his powerful telescope as

the barrel-chested, 6ft. 2in. Lt.-Col. Thorneycroft led

spirited bayonet charges and sent withering volleys

downhill at the advancing commandos. The ebb-and-

flow of hand-to-hand fighting continued for hours

under the blazing sun with neither side in complete

control, until eventually the long-distance enfilading

rifle fire from both flanks and the Boer shelling

decimated the British. Bodies in the shallow trenches

lay three deep, many of them without heads or limbs.

Bereft of their officers, and with no water or food,

about 200 shell-shocked Lancashire Fusiliers threw

down their rifles and waved a white flag at 1 p.m. But

a Boer who came forward to accept their surrender

was confronted by a red-faced officer with a droopy

moustache who bellowed: Take your men back to

Hell, sir! I am in command and I allow no surrender!

The ub iquit ous Th orney croft was t oo la te to stop 150

Fusiliers being captured, but they retaliated soon

afterwards by driving the Boers back over the crest-

line in a headlong bayonet charge. Apart from this

incident, the British never wavered and neit her did the

Boers withdraw in the confusion.And no confus ion wa s more acute than t hat whi ch

disrupted the British chain of command on the

summit. After Buller received Co l. Croftons appeal,

he notified Thorneycroft by messenger that he had

been promoted to Brigadier-General and was now

in charge. Bullers order ignored Crofton and other

officers who outranked Thorneycroft, and these

misunderstandings were never totally resolved.

It was the newly-promoted Thorneycroft who,

though bearing a charmed life during 12 hours in the

thick of battle, took the decision to retire after calling

his surviving officers together late in the afternoon to

discuss the futility of continuing the struggle next day.

Winston Churchill went back up t he mountain

well after dark with a message from Gen. Warren

promising reinforcements in the morning, but it

had no impact on the physical ly

and emotionally exhausted

Thorn eycrof t. T he reti rement

is already in process, he told

Churchill. Its better to get six

battalions safely off the hill tonight

than a bloody mop-up in t he

morning.

Louis Botha spent the night

re-organising his commandos and

persuading them to re-occupy

Twin Peaks , and a t dawn two Bo er

scouts were seen on Spion Kop

waving their hats and rifles. Theirpresence on the mountain was

proof that, almost unbelievably,

defeat had turned to victory for the

Boers.

General Botha rode up later and

was so appalled by the carnage

that he sent the British a flag of

truce and invited his enemies to

bury the dead and gather the

wounded. The Boers did likewise

so, instead of continuing the futile

battle, 25

January 1900 passed in eerie

silence as the doctors and Indian

stretcher-bearers, among them a

young lawyer named M.K. Gandhi,

went about their melancholy task.

Thor neycrof t was afterw ards

held to have greatly erred i n

retiring against orders from the

position he had so nobly held by

the sacrifices of his troops, but

his personal bravery in action and

his prevention of a fatal surrender

mitigated a military crime. His

superiors, who had left him forseveral hours without any definite

orders or contact, could also

not lay the entire blame on him.

Brigadier-General Thorneycroft

served with distinction until the

end of the war and was made a

Companion of the Bath.

British losses included 322 killed

or died of wounds, 563 wounded,

and 300 taken priso ner. The

Boers counted 95 killed and 140

wounded.

The mo st b izarre death

occurred when the Boers were

collecting Lee-Enfield rifles from

British bodies on 2 5 January. A

Lancashire Fusiliers finger stiffened

by rigor mortis was still hooked

around the trigger of his elevated

rifle when a Boer tugged at it and

it fired, the bullet hitting him in

the chest. It was the only known

incident of a dead Englishman

killing a Boer.Sir Redvers Bullers forces

eventually succeeded in breaking

through to relieve beleaguered

Ladysmith on 24 February after

extending his powerful right flank

past Colenso.

Even today, the Battle of Spion

Kop is burned into Lancastrian

memories. The Liverpool Football

Club ground at Anfield has a

grandstand named The Kop, and

battlefield pilgrims from Lancashire

often honour the dead by placing

Liverpool insignia on the graves

of unknown soldiers buried where

they fell 114 years ago.

A re d-and -whi te b eanie be aring

the Liverpool Football Clubs

insi gnia lies on t he gr ave o f an

unknown Lancashire Fusilier who

died on Spion Kop.

A tr ench on Spion Kop became a mas s gr ave f or t he Br itis h tro ops who fell in t he b attle .

SPION KOP AN ACRE OF MASSACREContinued


9/27

Plot Y-842 Kitwe - Ndola Dual Carriage Way, P. O. Box 23125, Kitwe, Zambia.Tel: +260 212 251 135 | +260 965 251 136

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It is a perfect escape for those who believe inindulging and pampering themselves withnothing but the best. Well connected withthe city and beyond, but miles away from thehustle and bustle, The Hotel has the largestconvention area in copper belt region whichideal for large conferences, annual generalmeeting etc.. It offers an array of 50well-

appointed guest rooms each equipped withTV, telephone, internet connectivity, channelmusic, mini bar, tea/coffee maker, electronicsafe and individual temperature controls, adoctor oncall, laundry services to ensure thatthe guest is comfortable and experiencinghospitality at best.

The Hotel was ofcially opened on 27thJanuary 2011 by the Zambia RepublicanPresident Honourable Rupiah Banda.

Whether you choose our Twin room, Deluxeroom, Executive Suite or the Family Suite,your stay with us is bound to be memorable.

Organic African famed restaurantserves a wide variety ofLocale& international cuisine.

Highway Bar - the welcoming bar at thehotel.

HOTEL OVERVIEW

All rooms are equipped with Electronic keycards, Electronic safes, LCD TVs, Minibar,Bathtub, Hairdryers, and outtted withindividually controlled air-conditioning &Complimentary Wi-Fi connectivity

Moba Hotel & Convention Centresmodern, spacious, exquisitely appointedaccommodationspanning 50 rooms & suiteswill spoil you for choice. The 5 Executivesuites& 3 Family inter-connected suitesprovide comfort to please the most discerningoftravellers.

ACCOMODATION

ROOMS/SUITES

INROOM AMENITIES

FOOD & BEVERAGES

OTHER FACILITIES


10/27

16

HOW TO PLAY SUDOKUYou have to ll in the missing numbers on the grid so that eachhorizontal row, vertical column and 3 x 3 square contains thenumbers 1 to 9 without leaving out or repeating any number.

Solution on Page 48

Answers on Page 48

GENERAL KNOWLEDGE QUIZ

1. What is Canadas capital?

2. The spots on a plaice are what color?

3. Which type of semi aquatic animal is a lutra-lutra?

4. A typical mayy lives for how many days?

5. A howdah is typically found where?

6. Who or what was Piper Alpha?

7. Which is further north, Miami or Orlando?

8. On what vegetable did an ancient Egyptian place his righthand when taking an oath?

9. What type of egg will yield 11 and one-half average-sizeomelettes?

10. The study of birds eggs is called what?

11. How many humps does an African camel have?

12. What pilot was the rst to suffer a passenger fatality in1908?

13. Which airport is in Paris?

14. What British university boasts and endowment called theJackie Mason Lectureship in Contemporary Judaism?

15. How many Great Lakes do not border Michigan?

16. How many ngwee equal a kwacha when youre paying forgods in Zambia?

17. What is the name of the Greek national airline?

18. What is the capitol of Bakina Faso?

Answers on Page 48

CROSSWORD

CompiledbyS.Potter

SUDOKU & QUIZ PAGE

Polite Car HirePrompt and Efficient Service

NDOLA OFFICE Mobile Numbers

Ndola Airport 0955 431522

P.O. Box 73435 0966 780453

Ndola, Zambia 0955 882992

Tel: +260 212 620172 0977 787803

Fax: +260 212 614216 0955 788541

E-mail: [email protected]

LUSAKA OFFICE Mobile Numbers

Tel/Fax: +260 211 221025 0977 705698

0955 775769

0979 251284

July/August 2014Zambian Traveller

Down

1. Ale2. Burn body3. Paper money4. Sequence5. Interfere with6. Thus9. 6th letter10. Reach12. Sole13. Required14. Sketch15. Annum17. Use cigar19. Gives out21. Sin24 Finish

Across

1. Pork4. Vegetables7. Built8. Legume11. Newt12. Either13. Country14. Rot16. That is to say17. Utter18. Stadium20. Consider22. For example23. Capital of Italy25. Precipitation26. Short dagger27. Foggy 17Zambian Traveller July/August 2014

8 8 3 2 1 2

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8 6 8 4 9

3 9 1 7 4

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PEX Hydraulics (Z) Ltd was established in 2001 with its head oce being based in Cape Town South Africa

and has over seven branches in Southern Africa. Pex hydraulics Zambia enjoys a market share of about

65% having regained its prominence in the last nine years of its existence due to its expansion program

in reaching the other parts of Zambia.

Our prime objecve is the local supply and remanufacture of hydraulic equipment according to

internaonal standards for the mining, construcon, agricultural and general industries. We have a

comprehensively equipped workshop with a hard chroming plant and the necessary machinery to eect

full overhauls of hydraulic equipment on our premises.

Our core business is the remanufacturing, sourcing and supplying all hydraulic components including

Hoses & Fings.

We have an in house chroming facility and fully equipped engineering workshop

SOLWEZI BRANCH

Stand No 1836

Chingola Road

Mitec Area

Solwezi

Tel: +260 218 82 1377

+260 966 78 3513

Fax: +260 218 82 1744

[email protected]

Part of the Pex Group

PEX HYDRAULICS ZAMBIA

KITWE - WORKSHOP

Stand No. 4668

Independence Avenue

Heavy Industrial Sites

P O Box 21798

Kitwe

Tel: +260 212 21 0292

+260 212 21 0402

Fax: +260 212 21 0293

E-mail- [email protected]

NDOLA OFFICE

Stand No

Vitanda Street

Industrial Area

Ndola

Tel: +260 212 61 2942

+260 966 65 2795

Fax: +260 212 61 2942

[email protected]

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11/27

FQM puts people and the environment rst for

An aerial shot of the under-construction $2 billion Sentinal Mine at Kalumbila

120 kilometers west of Solwezi (Wednesday 14, May 2014 - Courtesy of Brian Malama).

prosperity beyond Zambias Jubilee



12/27



13/27

2322 July/August 2014Zambian Traveller

Zambezi Cowbell Trek explorerDavid Lemon left Zambia

and entered into Mozambique onMay 12 at Luangwa after walkingsome 200km from Siavonga.Following the river through theLower Zambezi, he crossed theLuangwa river, which is one ofthe Zambezis tributaries, at a

point where Zambia borders withZimbabwe and Mozambique.

David Lemon ideally wanted tofinish the course before his 70thbirthday, giving him three to fourmonths in which to complete theremaining 800km of the journey.His aim is to reach Chinde wherethe river runs into the IndianOcean. I will make it throughto the Indian ocean. I thinkMozambique will be a differentexperience all together. I took ashort Portuguese class back inEngland when I was preparingfor my final Zambezi Trek, hesaid.

ZAMBEZI TREKKER DAVID LEMON ENTERS MOZAMBIQUEBy Gethsemane Mwizabi

The 6 9-yea r ol dbegan the second legof his epic ZambeziCowbell Trek on April19th at Siavionga,where he left off in2012 after walkingsome 1800kmfollowing the riverfrom its source atIkelengi in ZambiasNorth WesternProvince. Severalpeople joined him

for the first 30km hisjour ney b efor e he wasleft alone to follow theZambezi.

His ambitious trek,with the sole purposeof highlighting theplight of elephants inthe Southern Africaregion, has enabledhim to interact withpeople and theircultures who dependon the Zambezi Riverfor livelihood. DavidLemon said I am

totally grateful to the Zambianpeople for the warm supportthey have shown and renderedto me every step of the way.

His journey has not beenwithout challenges,especially passing

through the LowerZambezi Nationalpark, where heencountered awide range ofwildlife. David losthis GPS in theLower Zambeziand had to relyon his compassto determinehis position anddirection. Hecovered 200kmin 28 daysbefore enteringMozambique.Ultimately, David

Lemon is out to make history.

Andy Taylor, ma nagi ng d irect orof Promasidor in Zambia, ishappy with Davids performance.We can only wish him the best,he said.

Afte r the Luangw a conflu ence,where David Lemon crossed, itis a much larger Zambezi thatflows into Mozambique andout towards the Indian Ocean,having provided power, food,

pleasure and transport for manyand a home for untold wildlifealong its journey.

Before beginning the secondtrek of the Zambezi Cowbell, hehad two fundraising ventures,at Ndola Boating Club andKansanshi Golf Club in Solwezi.He also raised funds from bookauctions in Ndola and Solwezi.David is the author of severalbooks, his latest being CowbellsDown the Zambezi (about theriver people along the Zambezi)which he wrote when he tooka break in 2012. In total morethan K14,000 (US $2000) wasraised for the Lilayi ElephantOrphanage.

The Z ambez i Ri ver s uppor tsall forms life be it social,economical, cultural or

environmental. Throughout its course people have harnessedits power in various ways. It is used to generate hydro-electricpower. The Kariba Dam, one of the largest man-made lakes in theworld, has provided power to Zimbabwe and Zambia since 1963.Vict oria Fall s ha s an other small er p ower stat ion. Anot her l arge damproducing electricity on the Zambezi River is the Cahora Bassa inMozambique, constructed in 1974.

Besides the Victoria Falls there are other falls on the Zambezi, theNgonye falls near Sioma in the Western province and Chavuma Falls,at the border between Angola and Zambia.

The Z ambez i su pport s vas t ar ray o f an imal s. Among these arecrocodiles, hippopotamuses, zebras, elephants and buffalo. It is alsoa haven for various species of fish such as tiger fish, catfish, yellowfish and cichlids. Numerous birds can be spotted along the riverincluding pelicans, egrets, and African fish eagles.

Getting into the bush to meet the Zambezi river in

Siavongo

Hands over money raised for elempants at the Lilayi Elempant Orphanage

Promasidor managing director Andy Taylor shows

David Lemons movement on the map.David Lemon Joined by well wishers among painter Alexis Phiri on a walk

in Si avonga at t he st art of his se cond journe y.


14/27

25Zambian Traveller July/August 2014July/August 2014Zambian Traveller24

airtel business solutions

airtel delivers cutting edge technology and industry tailored businesssolutions encompassing:

dedicated voice leased lines - for call centre or office

voice and video conferencing

dedicated internet

fiber and wireless connectivity

private APNs for mobile remote access

local and international MPLS

bulk SMS

quality of service on solutions

call +260977915000 or email: [email protected]

www.africa.airtel.com/Zambia

enterprise telephonyOne year ago, I elected to join what I felt was the most thrilling industry in the world today, Telecoms!

This I chose to do with Zambias Airtel Networks Plc, commonly known as Airtel. Airtel is part of the Bharti group,which is a leading global telecommunications company with operations in 20 countries across Asia and Africa.Headquartered in New Delhi, India, the company ranks amongst the top 4 mobile service providers globally in termsof subscribers. In India, the companys product offerings include 2G, 3G and wireless services, mobile commerce,fixed line services, high speed DSL broadband, IPTV, DTH, enterprise services including national & international longdistance services to carriers. In the rest of the geographies including Zambia, it offers 2G, 3G wireless services andmobile commerce. Bharti Airtel had over 277 million subscribers across its operations at the end of September 2013.

n Zambia, Airtel remains the only listed telecoms company on the Lusaka Stock Exchange (LuSE) among the threelicensed GSM operators therefore promoting creation of wealth among local investors. At one point, the Airtel share(Celtel then) was the most actively traded pushing huge trade volumes daily. With about 4,5m subscribers, Airtelremains a strong brand in Zambia with widest coverage to some of the most rural areas, enabling communication andtherefore the conduct of commerce and trade, translating into national development.

Over the next few months, I shall be sharing through this column, the telephony of enterprise. This means I willbe sharing multiple solutions that highlight and bring to the fore, telecommunications solutions, products andservices that are designed for enterprises o r companies. These are largely, and by design intended to deliver value toenterprises or businesses both large, small and medium and also sole traders or small-office-home-office type users.Telecoms is such a thrilling sector of the economy that there is always something for everyone and this column willexpose all that. What has always been known about Airtel is that it provides only services - largely voice, data andValue Added Services (VAS) - to the mass market. Hitherto, very little has been known about services available forcorporate customers from Airtel and this has to change.

Well, by the end of this series, our readers will comfortably come to appreciate that Airtel has an Enterprise Bu sinessdirectorate soon to be rebranded as AIRTEL BUSINESS, whose focus is simply to offer tailored solutions, productsand services to the enterprise or business sector. The enterprise business department is also therefore appropriatelyresourced with a dedicated sales team, some stationed in the Copperbelt and Lusaka giving geographical coverageacross the country. The team also has a fully dedicated team of Enterprise Data Support experts giving non-voicesolution structuring and support to the corporate sector. The department also has a team looking purely at the SMEsegment and is fully supported by a marketing structure for the purpose of market sizing, product and businessdevelopment.

For now though, I thought to kick start with a very pertinent issue at hand and it has to do with SIM registration. On28th June 2011, the government of Zambia issued a statutory instrument (SI) number 65 of 2011, The Information andCommunications Technology (Registration of Electronic Communication Apparatus) Regulations 2011, making it amandatory and legal requirement for all cell phone subscribers to register their SIM cards. The Statutory Instrument

makes it mandatory for the sellers of SIM cards and the network operators to capture identity details of persons towhom a SIM Card is sold and number assigned.

At the time of issuance of the SI, there was no deadline. Well, the deadline has since come and gone. Its back tobusiness as usual for our subscribers. For us though, there are a few numbers th at remain unregistered for multiplereasons. So if you are holding on to a number yet to be registered, now is the time and please do not miss out on theexciting products for this year! This you can do at your nearest Airtel shop or office.and for the business customers,you can send us an email at: [email protected] simply call us on +260 97 915000.

Muyunda MunyindaEnterprise Business DirectorAirtel Zambia

www.africa.airtel.com/Zambia


15/27


Ihave been travelling to Indiafor many, many years now, butdespite the fact that I now feel

very much at home and have

many friends there, I can still

remember the nervous trepidation

that I felt before my first visit and

the complete and utter chaos and

overwhelming panic that assaulted

my senses on arrival. My first

taste of India was the transition

from the relative calm and peaceof the plane, to the hot, muggy,

smelly, bright Delhi airport. Still

to this day, arriving in Delhi or

Mumbai airports always reminds

me that Im now in an entirely

different world, a magical world

full of amazing sights to see and

fantastic things to do; but also a

world of crowds, traffic, pollution,

and confusion.

A tr avele rs firs t ta ste o f Indi a is

usually the drive from the airport

to their hotel, and it is this road

trip which makes you realise you

are about to experience something

entirely new! Road markings

and signs are generally ignored,

indicators seemingly never used,

and the only part of a vehicle that

it is absolutely essential to have in

working order, is the horn, which

is used loudly and frequently to

signify a myriad of things! Also

vying for a spot on the road from

the airport you will see camels,

cows, rickshaws, tuktuks, and

bicycles, all seeming to be going

the wrong way down the four-lanehighway. It is chaos nothing

really prepares you for India until

youre actually there.

India is the seventh largest

country in the world and home

to approximately one sixth of the

worlds population. Obviously due

to its size, it is important to first

decide which part of India you

want to visit. There is so much to

see and do in India, but unless you

know the tricks necessary to travel

in India without losing your money,

your bearings, or your sanity; then

your enjoyment of India may be

tainted. Like most countries, India

has its own unique way

of doing things and it

is useful to keep this in

mind. A trip to India is

a paradox of wonderful

experiences juxtaposed

with reality - either way

an onslaught on all

your five senses.

Im generally an

independent traveler,

preferring to avoid

travel agents, tour

groups, tourist busesand big resorts with

buffets; but for a

first timer in India

I would, without a

doubt, recommend

arriving in Delhi and

doing the popular

Golden Triangle tour.

This compr ises Delhi

(the nations capital),

Jaipur and Agra; and

it is certainly a good

introduction to the

country.

On my first visit to India I arrived

in Delhi and hired a car and driver

and set off on the typical Golden

Triangl e to ur. Delh i is poll uted,

crowded and noisy, but is also rich

in cultural history, with a number

of impressive and beautiful

buildings and monuments. Starting

out in Old Delhi, the former centre

of Moghul Power, I traveled

through the narrow streets andbustling bazaars that this part of

Delhi is renowned for, to visit the

Red Fort (built in 1648), wandered

through Chandni Chowk or Silver

Street, experiencing the sights

and sounds of this famous and

busy avenue, and then finished

off with a visit to the Jama Masjid

(the greatest mosque in India,

completed in 1658 by Shah

Jahan who built the Taj Mahal),

and the serenely peaceful, and

very moving, Raj Ghat, the simple

memorial to Mahatma Gandhi.

Afte r a m orni ng sp ent a bsor bing

the sights, sounds and smells of

Old Delhi, and lunch to recharge your batteries, it is

time to spend a little time in New Delhi. Driving past

the stately government buildings of the British Raj

Era designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, (including the

India Gate and the Presidential Palace) and then on

to the beautiful, Moughal era, Humayuns tomb and

finishing up at the stone tower of Qutub Minar.

Two hundre d ki lomet ers, and a three hour drive

from Delhi, will bring you to Agra, and Indias most

famous tourist attraction, the Taj Mahal. Emperor

Shah Jahan began construction of the Taj around

1632, and it was finally completed in around 1653.

The Taj M ahal h as be en des cribe d as the m ost

extravagant monument ever built for love; the storygoes that the emperor was heartbroken when his

wife, Mumtaz, died after 17 years of marriage,

during the birth of her 14th child and so built the

Taj Mahal to i mmort alis e his love for her. The Taj

Mahal is made entirely of pure white marble and its

white walls are decorated with exquisitely intricate,

precious and semi precious stone inlay work.

Sunrise and sunset are the best times to visit the

Taj, as the c olour s see m far more v ibra nt th an in

the middle of the day when everything seems a little

bleached by the harsh Indian sun.

Agra is al so fa mous for a nothe r Wor ld He rita ge

site, and a definite must to visit, the Agra Fort.

Better described as a walled city, the Red Fort

is made out of red sandstone, and was built by

Akbar betwe en th e yea rs 15 63-7 3 and was h ome

to several great Mughal Kings. Within its walls lies

a grand harem enclosure that once included many

beautiful pools and fountains, and a neighbouring

structure housed the Kings wives and mistresses.

The f ort i s co mpris ed of magni ficen t ga rdens ,

mosques and grand pavilions and reflects the

bygone era of truly luxurious royal living.

INDIA FOR FIRST TIMERSBy Sarah Kingdom

Agra - Taj Ma hal

Dehlitrafic

No.7 Chituli Road off Sibweni RoadNorthmead

Tel: + 260 211 292100

+ 260 972 034746 + 260 955 235661

e-mail: [email protected]

P.O. BOX CH 310 102

LUSAKA


16/27

28 July/August 2014Zambian Traveller 29

around Jaipur include the Jantar Mantar which is a

collection of architectural astronomical instruments

built in 1727, the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), the Amber

Fort (where you can ride an elephant up to the fort)

and the Jaigarh Fort. Jaipur is also famous for its

jewel ry ma rket , the Johar i Baz aar.

One of my lasting memories of Jaipur is of the

impressive Amber Fort, situated on a ridge just

outside Jaipur City, where at the foot of the hill you

climb aboard an elephant for the slow but steady

climb up to the main gate, making your entrance in

the time honoured, but somewhat embarrassingly

touristy fashion! The Fort, completed in the early

18th century, took over 100 years to build and now,although deserted, offers an insight into the lifestyle of

the Moghul ruling families.

From Jaipur we drove the 250 kms back to Delhi

and there my driver and I parted ways.

The G olden Triangl e to ur is the t ypica l fi rst timer s

to India tour and, as such, is well worth doing, as

it will give you a great introduction to this fabulous

and amazing country. By booking such a trip through

a travel agent it takes much of the unknown out

of your first visit, and leaves you to enjoy yourself

without having to worry about any of the logistics. I

have been back to India many times than I can count

since my first visit and have traveled to numerous

parts of the country, some well off the beaten path,

but I will always be glad for that first taste.

Jaip ur - Wind Palac e

INDIA FOR FIRST TIMERSContinued

Zambian Traveller July/August 2014

Leaving Agra we drove 220km to Jaipur, the

final destination of the typical Golden Triangle tour.

En route to Jaipur, a detour to Fatehpur Sikri, the

deserted, red sandstone city that was built by

Emperor Akbar as his capital and palace in 1573

(only to abandon it twelve years later in 1585) is

highly recommended. This capital without a future

was described by English traveler Ralph Fitch in

1585 as considerably larger than London and more

populous, and although only 40 km from Agra and

the Taj Mahal, seems a lot less visited but equally as

interesting.

Jaipur is popularly knows as the Pink City for its

imitation pink stucco buildings and walls, and is quite

spectacularly set within surroundings of rugged hills,

dotted with ancient ruined fortresses. Jaipurs most

famous landmark is the City Palace and the adjacent

Hawa Mahal or Palace of Winds (which was built

in 1799 as an extension to the City Palace, to allow

royal ladies of the Kings harem to observe everyday

street life without being seen). The City Palace is still

home to the Maharaja of Jaipur, although several of

the rooms are open to the public and have on display

antiques and artifacts belonging to the ruling family.

Other interesting and beautiful monuments in and

Sikandra - Akbars Tomb

When FQM develops a mine, our

operations are only one of the things weplan. Were also committed to making a

lasting contribution to the regions we workin through the skills, industries, facilities and

services we can reallyhelp develop.

Weve been planning in great detail how we

can support the expansion of Kalumbila

Town and contribute to a strong economiczone thats sustainable when Sentinel

closes. The infrastructure weve investedin has already begun to attract businesses

and several public spaces are being built.

By mid 2014, we plan to have a newbakery, supermarket, petrol station and 36

hotel apartments as part of the town with

six ATM facilities installed by four differentbanks. The Kalumbila Industrial

Park will open January next year and

in early summer we expect more newdevelopments to come online.

The full plans for the town include

additional playgrounds and sports fields.One new school will be ready September

2014 as well. All of these things willencourage many more people to live in

Kalumbila, which is good for the towns

prosperity and growth.

Making Kalumbila an attractive, safe andhealthy town is a shared programme with

the local government and community andmany other businesses. Our collective

vision is to make Kalumbila one of thebest towns in Zambia, if not Africa, and

an example of what clear planning for the

future can achieve. Were very proud toplay a part in its development.

BUILD IT.SHAPE IT.GROW IT.

FQM wants to make a lastingcontribution to the north-west of Zambiathrough its world-leading copper mineand expansion of Kalumbila Town.

Right now we need people for mining, geology, engineering metallurgy,

fleet maintenance and fleet management (mining) roles. Visit our website

to see the full range of career opportunities on offer.

www.first-quantum.com/careersCHOOSEYOUR CHALLENGE


17/27


The boat moves purposefully down stream on the

Mirgamari River, just one of dozens of narrow

waterways that make up the Bangladesh half of the

sprawling Ganges delta (the other half is in India). On

both sides of the river, thick mangroves interspersed

with tall grasses line the muddy banks. This is part of

the Sundarbans the Beautiful Forest that spreads

over 9,630 square kilometres of south-westernBangladesh.

Long-nosed Gangetic dolphins play in the bow wave

as the helmsman guides his boat down the centre of

the river. The mid afternoon air is hot and thick with

humidity. The boats motion stirs the air enough to

send a constant breeze over the handful of people

on the open upper deck. We are all watching for any

signs of wildlife.

The S undar bans has b een pr otec ted a s a f ores t

reserve for close to 130 years. Other than ocean-

going freighters steaming up the Passur River

between the Bay of Bengal and Mongla Port, no one

is allowed into the Sundarbans without a permit. That

doesnt mean the forest is devoid of people. At any

given time there could be a few thousand people

working on the rivers and on the land. Many industries

INTO THE TIGERS LAIRBy Anthony Dalton

rely on the forests natural resources. Among the most

important of these are fishing and timber harvesting.

Over 300 species of birds inhabit the Sundarbans;.

from innocent little grebes and kingfishers, to large

geese, herons, storks, Brahmini kites and majestic

sea eagles. They share the rivers that feed them with

crocodiles, dolphins, otters and many varieties of fish.

On land and among the trees and bushes 40 or more

species of mammals live and forage for food, from

a tiny shrew to the magnificent

Royal Bengal tiger.

Despite being outnumbered

by almost all other creatures in

the Sundarbans, the tiger is the

dominant predator here. There

are few of them left but those that

have survived poachers and mans

encroachment on their wilderness

habitat have not lost their

grandeur or their hunting skills.

The s trip ed em peror is a t the

apex of the food chain. All other

creatures do their best to stay out

of the tigers clutches.

Alth ough sight ings are ra re,

tigers are still to be seen in various

parts of the forest. Individuals

have been photographed resting

in long grass on riverbanks, or

swimming across rivers. Rarely do

most of them show themselves

for more than a second or two,

yet one was seen a few years ago

strolling on a long, deserted white-

sand beach overlooking the Bay of

Bengal.

In the far south of the

Sundarbans there is an extensive

tract of grassland called Jawtoli

Meadow, just across the river

from a government rest house

at Katka. Herds of spotted

deer and families of wild boar,

both important prey for tigers,

frequent the lush meadow and the

surrounding woodlands. The grass

is long anywhere from knee to

waist-high at times for an average

adult. In such an environment

it is easy for the camouflage of

striped fur to work its magic and

render the ultimate forest predator

invisible. To help

visitors watch

wildlife in safety, at

the southern end

of the meadow is

a watchtower, 20

metres high.

After a ful l day s

cruise from Mongla

and a night at

anchor in the river,

our boat pulls

alongside a rickety

wooden jetty at

the entrance to a

muddy creek. We

step ashore and

follow an armed

forestry worker

along a narrow

beaten path

towards the green

and white tower.

Halfway I see a

Fishing boats at sunset

Purple sunbird on bottle-brush plant

Tiger watchtower in the Sundarbans

Purple sunbird on bottle-brush plant Kotka rest house


18/27

32 July/August 2014Zambian Traveller 33Zambian Traveller July/August 2014

dried pugmark where a tiger had passed days before.

You can go up, he says, motioning our group of

four through a flimsy gate. One at a time we climb the

flights of wooden stairs to the observation platform

near the top. The forestry worker closes the gate and

follows. The view from the top is spectacular; just as

I remembered it from a few years before. Then I had

spent a couple of days and nights on the tower with a

Bangladeshi wildlife photographer. In the early hours

of one morning we had watched as a tiger hunted a

spotted deer, chased it down and caught it. Today,

in the bright sunshine of mid-morning, there is little

movement. But there are creatures out there.

A li ght b reeze ruffl es th e gra ss. A troop of mo nkeys

chatter at each other, their high-pitched voices

muffled somewhat by trees behind us. We hear the

snuffling of a wild boar close by. Out in the long

grass, a few deer are foraging for food. An occasional

bird flies past seeking its own favourite taste treats.

A sc arlet drago nfly hover s in front of my nose for a

second or two; then darts away. Beyond that all is

peaceful.

We stay for a couple of hours, watching and hoping

but no tigers appear. In the early afternoon, taking

a walk alone along the mudflats near the Katka rest

house and in sight of the boat, I find fresh pugmarks

in the mud. Unseen by any of us, a tiger has beenhere within the last hour. I feel a shiver of excitement

as I look around me, wondering if I am being watched

by the most powerful cat in the world. Without haste,

I retrace my steps to the safety of the rest house

garden. Others are there drinking cold fruit juice

and watching the birds dining off fruit on a nearby

bush. I tell them about the tracks I have seen. A

forestry worker says there are also fresh tracks by the

waterhole behind the rest house. Although we cant

see it, there is a tiger nearby.

On the way back upstream to Mongla we pass a

pair of saltwater crocodiles sunning themselves on

the mud. Late in the afternoon, when we least expect

it, we see a tiger in the river, swimming in lazy strokes

from one shore to another. It is only visible for a few

minutes, but it is enough for us. The river journey has

been a success.

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19/27

3534 July/August 2014Zambian Traveller Zambian Traveller July/August 2014

My husband and I never had ahoneymoon. We got married.

Twice; t wo we dding s sep arate d byseven days and several thousandmiles. And then we hopped ontoan aeroplane and flew to Dar esSalaam to seek our fortunes; wedidnt have time for a honeymoon.

Friends, who got married atroughly the same time however,back in the shoulder padded, giltbuttoned, big haired eighties, did.And t hey some what unwise ly on

reflection decided to honeymoonin Zanzibar. Zanzibar was not,seventeen years ago, what it istoday. They ate chicken with itsfeet still attached and drank warmbeer. They slept in a hotel bedroomdecorated with ugly 1970s furniturethat didnt have air-conditioning.They were young newly -weds ; the yprobably hardly noticed.

I have been married for too long,and my husband too disinclined todrink beer that isnt teeth-achinglycold, to cope with the Zanzibar ourfriends spoke of. (They tell goodstories but they havent summonedthe courage to go back). I have

been in Tanzania since I arrived herein 1989 and have been waiting eversince to hear confirmed reports thatZanzibar is no longer the hardshipholiday destination it was once; Iveonly recently plucked up the nerveto visit, and since Zanzibar really issynonymous with honeymoons now,I took my husband with me.

Zanzibars name has, however,long been associated with exoticismand a colourful, sometimes cruel,history. Seyid Said bin Sultan was

the founder of modern Zanzibar andits clove industry. He became theruler of Oman in 1805 and shortlyafterwards moved his capital fromMuscat to Zanzibar in order tobetter profit from lucrative tradeincluding that of slaves. Duringhis reign Zanzibar was the mostimportant town in East Africa bothcommercially and politically. In 1890the island was placed under Britishprotection at the request of theSultan and a year later proclaimeda protectorate. It became anindependent state in December1963. One month later the sultanwas deposed and the governmentoverthrown by an armed rebellion

and Zanzibar was declared arepublic by the new left-wingrevolutionary government. Manyislanders remember the rebellionand Stone Town, particularly, isinfused with a sense of tragedyas much as it is faded glory. AndStone Town, the old quarter of theislands capital, was where we wereheaded.

Flying into the island offers aglorious perspective: Zanzibar liesin the water like a mother ship

surrounded by the flotilla that is herarchipelago, tiny atolls with nameslike Bat and Prison and the largerMnemba and Tumbatu islands hugher wide bleached beaches closely.An a rmada of tin y ngl aos w ith s ailsstrung tight had their bows pointedtowards the shore like so many tinywhite arrow heads, as we began ourdescent.

Husband had not been particularlyenthused at the prospect of avisit to Zanzibar. His memories ofit as a tractor salesman (thereis a certain endearing absurdityabout tractor salesmen visiting atiny tropical island?) were notdissimilar to our friends honeymoon

experience (particularly asthey discovered, years later,that they had patronizedthe same hotel, indeed theonly hotel then, the HotelBiwani which was separatedfrom the beach by a chainlink fence and did not servebutter or jam with the toastat breakfast.) and in order topersuade him to accompanyme I had to make several rashpromises. And I had to pay.But in the spirit of simulating a

honeymoon (belatedly), I hadlittle choice.

If I had any concerns aboutwhether my husband wouldenjoy his two days on theisland, they were dispelled themoment we landed.

Airports improved, hemuttered. And, half an hour

later, Roads are much better. An hour after that, as we feasted on fatprawns and drank beer whilst debating which hotel we would call first fora room he conceded that even the beer was cold enough. I couldnt haveasked for more.

We decided that since this was about discovering Stone Town and notabout being on the beach, (having grown up on the best beaches in theworld: Kenya beaches) wed stay in the very heart of it and to that endbooked ourselves into a inexpensive little hotel tucked away on KenyattaStreet, a few doors up from the islands main shopping centre and over theroad from the Zanzibar Gallery (fabulous for books, particularly Africana) andaround the corner from the house where Freddy Mercury was born.

I didnt know Freddy Mercury was born on Zanzibar said my husbandwith his mouth wideopen. I rolled my eyesbut didnt tell it wasabout all I did knowabout Zanzibar. (FreddyMercury, for those verymuch older or very muchyounger than I, was thelead singer of the popband, Queen).

Despite initialimpressions, specificallyan extremely surlylandlady, the hotel wasperfect. Our doubleroom cost USD$65 forbed and breakfast andwas equipped with bothair-conditioning and afan (which meant not

SIMULATING A HONEYMOON IN STONE TOWNBy: Anthea Rowan

Stone Town Market

The Old Fort

Stone Town


20/27

3637

July/August 2014Zambian TravellerZambian Traveller July/August 2014

only were we cool but street noiseswere obliterated by a soporifichum), a television (which we didnot watch), a bar fridge, a ratherbeautiful Zanzibari bed and anexcellent shower with plentiful hotand cold water.

By now the husband wasbeginning to enter the spirit ofthings and was anxious to explore.

Stone Town is imbued with anArab flavo ur tha t far excee ds th eAfrica n, de spite its p roximit y to

the mainland. And the islandersare quick to make the distinction:that they are Zanzibaris and notTanzanian s. Wome n in bui-bu ithread silently and discreetlythrough slender streets, flowingblack robes melting into theshadows; the muezzin calls thefaithful shrilly to prayer five timesevery day; crows screech andcats caterwaul. Stone Town isnot a quiet place. Men wearingfezzes on their heads riding Vespascooters there are veritable fleetsof them on the island whiz throughadder-narrow alleys with women inpurdah riding pillion, crash helmetssquashed atop their veils, hornsblaring.

Having successfully with micro-seconds to spare dodged out ofthe way of one Vespa after anotherbearing determinedly down on us,

we retreated to the Serena Inn fora shandy. The Serena is beautiful.And p erfect ly pl aced to be nefitfrom any breeze going; it is situatedright on the water, with wonderfulviews across to a cluster of tinyislands: Prison, Snake, Bawe. Theatmosphere in the Serena is theantithesis to Stone Town itself,cool and quiet, waiters attendwith haughty decorum: all pressedwhite kanzu, black sashes andgold fezzes. We didnt hang aroundthough; not when a shandy costfour bucks. (The Serena is where

rich people sleep and poor peopleshare drinks).

Having successfully plied travellingcompanion with beer (well, half alager), he obliged by joining me inthe shops. Memories of Zanzibar where I bought a Tshirt for my son;a jewellery box for one daughter,a necklace for her big sister,gorgeous loose drawstring trousersadorned with sequins and beautifulembroidered blouses for myself;pareo (traditionally woven Zanzibarkikoy-equivalent) for my neighbour is a lively consumer haven. Ladenwith bags we ventured into the diminterior of Zanzibar Gallery wherepoor beleaguered husband boughta map. Of the island. Which wasvery useful.

The co ol of the e venin g pres entsa perfect opportunity to scourthe town. Vespas still squealperilously around corners but atleast sweat isnt dripping into youreyes anymore so you can see themcoming.

We struck up a conversation withan old Indian gentleman who wasleaning inside the doorway to hiscarpentry shop. He invited us in tohave a look and told us his fatherhad moved to the island from Indianin 1929 and had only passed awaythat very week. We commiseratedwith him and then, in an effortto distract him from his loss, weremarked on the beautiful door he

was leaning against. Indian teak hesmiled, patting it with a mixture ofaffection and pride. Not anymore,though he said, looking sad all overagain, these day they make thedoors out of Tanzanian Mninga. Iwant to know if Zanzibar is a betterplace to live now than it was once,I want to know if the tourism hasimproved the life of the islanders.He shrugs, money comes toZanzibar, but it is not spent wisely.We commiserate all over again andthen politely bid him goodnight.

Later I have a similar conversationwith another Zanzibari, theproprietor of a bakery. She plies

The Arts Market

Spices

Forodhani Gardens

me with cappuccino and pastries as we talk. Born on Zanzibar sheremembers it was a wonderful place to grow up. Her face clouds,though, when she describes the revolution; her parents, she says,arranged for her to be smuggled across to the mainland where shespent many years before ever returning to the island to visit herfamily. Is life as good now as it was once I asked. Not yet, shesaid, sorrowfully, shaking her head, maybe it never will be.

We continue our evening constitution, a walk through ForodhaniGardens where crowds have gathered to enjoy the ambience andthe food. Street vendors have set up tables at which they cook andsell kebabs and seafood and mishkaki and sweet bananas soakedin syrup. Lamps hiss and sputter and cast a glow across a spreadof octopus and fish, prawn and squid. Cats weave about at our feet.Local children eat supper alongside an eclectic collection of tourists:an English gentleman in striped pink blazer and rose waistcoat, ayoung French (genuinely honeymooning?) couple, an American whois loudly demanding to know when the fish he is inspecting wascaught.

It was time for our own dinner. We had identified a small unlikely

looking joint as being The Best Place to Eat Supper. We werentdisappointed. We drank enough excellent house wine by the glassto have sunk two bottles. We ate succulent prawn satay and roastedoctopus in soy sauce for starters which we followed with seafoodcasserole served in a coconut and steamed crab with ginger. Welistened to great music. We paid the bill (less than $40). And wepretended to be on honeymoon.

We ate breakfast (piping hot omelettes) at the gloriously kitschTembo Hote l on the s ea fr ont be fore fl ying h ome, back to th echildren (whod sent a text, have a nice time without the bratz).

So. Honeymoon finally in the bag. Just need to make our fortunesnow

Do be mindful that the islanders are devout Muslims; dont wearskimpy clothes in Stone Town and dont photograph women inpurdah. Hire a Vespa if youre brave enough; keep out of their wayif youre not. Purchase a map of the island and Stone Town (bothZanzibar Gallery and Memories of Zanzibar stock them for around$5) the moment you arrive. it will prove invaluable.

SIMULATING A HONEYMOON IN STONE TOWNContinued

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38 July/August 2014Zambian Traveller Zambian Traveller July/August 2014 39

Sumptuous steaks, fresh sea food, cool crispsalads, spicy curries, tongue, tingling chicken,

risotto, paella and pasta For desert fresh fruitsalad, tongue-tingling ice cream, pies, puddingsand tarts. Our favourite recipes, old and new, are

expanding across the world as neuvo cuisine hitsour homes and restaurants and makes mealtimesa tantalising experience, a delicious encounter anda mouth-watering adventure.

If you have been serving at a mission station indeepest Congo or working long term on a trampsteamer in the southern oceans or been on arocket to Mars, then you might have missed thefabulous food extravaganza that has gripped theworld in recent years. Our home food cookinghas been superseded by a new and excitingcollection of dishes, superbly presented andoozingly delicious. Everyday chefs now findthemselves in great demand and have beenelevated to pop-star status as the foodie brigadeexpect more tastier, more imaginative and moreexotic meals.

That stan dard and trad iti onal fare of meat andtwo veg, or in Africa grilled chicken and nshimawhich seemed to be regular daily mealtime forour fathers generation is being replaced with amuch more imaginative cooking style as we import

pasta, risotto and pizza from Italy, paella fromSpain, fish and seafoods from the depths of theAtla ntic or t he Antarc tic, tast y tre ats from Arab ia,traditional Turkish delicacies, curries from India,spicy nachos from Mexico and ever popular thevaried and colourful menu from China and theOrient the list is endless and its growing!

Our distant relatives soon tired of a diet of rawmeat and learned the art of cooking over an openfire. Next they added herbs and spices and freshvegetables. The first cook-books, surprisinglyimaginati ve and tempting, appeared 2,000 yearsago and sailors and travellers, visiting new parts,swapped recipes and ideas. European travellers tothe Crusades returned home with tales of fabulousforeign cuisine and introduced new dished andcooking styles to the homeland. Northern dishes

NEUVO CUISINE!A br ief and tantal ising excu rsion i nto the fabulous wo rld of i nterna tional cuisineand din ing by chef, writer and gastronome Roger De C laire.

tended to be stodgy and heavy whilst the fare from warmerclimates was lighter, tastier and benefited from a wider rangeof spices and herbs. As the sailors and explorers landed inthe Americas, the Orient and the south sea islands, so theydiscovered more exotic plants and dishes which they took hometo very receptive gatherings.

Tradit iona lly, o ur d iet cons iste d of food th at w as l ocal lyavailable, those living by the sea or riverbanks ate fish, thoseon the plains ate more red meat and in areas that had littlewild game, a diet of grain, vegetables and/or rice made up themenus.

The 20t h cen tury saw great advan ces in f arming a nd f oodproduction, frozen, chilled, dried and refrigerated foodstuffs and

in trans oceanic and cross country transportation. Again, thosewho had travelled during WWII brought home lip smackingtales of new food and dishes. The east meets west migrationstriggered a merging of traditional and new recipes which wereblended and reshaped. Mealtimes became a delight!

Suddenly, the postwar bookshop shelves groaned with thean explosion of cook-books and the names of small time,previously unknown cooks were catapulted to instant stardom.The nort hern Europ eans leap t at the Ital ian past as, Chin esedishes, Indian curries. To the war weary Europeans came anexplosion of new tastes and the Africans introduced a colourfularray of new ingredients, cassava, yam, cocoyam, beans,maize, coconut, plantain, millet, melons, sea foods, (exceptsnoek!) lentil, beans, chick-peas, vegetable oils and a rainbowof tantalizing spices, and vegetables all year round. It camewith a wonderful and varied collection of tropical and exoticfruits to set tingling those j aded northern palates. And, it was allgood, tasty and nutritious.

The Chin ese cuis ine ext ravag anza came tear ing out of theorient in the 60s like a Peking firecracker and almost overnightgave us a new way of cooking and eating, with rice bowls andchop sticks. They gave us chop suey (mixed bits), delicious friedand stewed meats with bean sprouts and bamboo shoots insoy sauce Chow Mein (stir fried) shredded meat or fish served

with noodles and vegetables. They tempted us with traditionalrecipes, gathered from all parts of China, using meat, chickenand fish with noodles, crispy vegetables and a fantastic array oforiental spices, served with a variety of steaming rice dishes, li psmacking and mouth wateringly tasty. The Chinese chefs spreadacross the world and opened thousands of modern restaurantsand convenient take-away outlets.

The war time cook s wh o ha d pr oduc ed f airl y bl and fare fromvery basic ingredients thought they they had gone to foodheaven and began to produce simple and tasty dishes andmeals previously unheard of. Todays foodies have spoilt uswith a vast choice of eating options, whether dining out or athome, fresh or preserved meats, fresh all year round vegetablesand spices, sauces and herbs to tempt and tantalise even thedullest or most jaded of taste-buds.

Cook something special, something different, somethingtongue tingling and exciting for dinner.

Bon appetite!


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22/27


Not too many years ago when there were only eightweight divisions and only eight world titles, Dick

Tiger w as an u ndispute d doubl e world champion .

Possibly the greatest fighter to come out of Nigeria, hewon the middleweight title twice, beating Gene Fullmerin 1963 and Joey Giardello in 1965. Then he won thelight heavyweight title when he outpointed Jose Torres in1966.

Born Richard Ihetu on 14 August, 1929 in the villageAmaigo, he bec ame a l arger-than- life hero in Niger ia. Hereceived little schooling and worked as a bottle pickerat the Eke O ha market in the Aba Township. That is werehe got involved in fights that led him to boxing.

In the rough environment of the market he laterbecame an enforcer at the long queues at the waterpumps. His skills were noticed by British army officersand they suggested he take up boxing.

After a short am ateur c areer he joined the profe ssionalranks in Lagos in 1952 when he was 23 years old. Hestopped Simon Eme in two rounds and won his next sixfights before suffering his first loss, to Tommy West in achallenge for the Nigerian middleweight title.

Tiger h ad tak en his re cord to 15 wins a nd that one losswhen a British insurance salesman, Jack Farnsworth,who later helped establish the Nigerian Boxing Board ofControl, arranged for the fighter to move to England.

Tiger s et him self up in Live rpool, b ut found it diffi cultto adjust to the climate. He lost his first four fights beforeregistering his first win in May 1956 when he stoppedDennis Rowley in one round.

Settling in, he lost only two of his next 17 fights beforewinning the British Empire middleweight title whenhe stopped Pat McAteer in nine rounds on 27 March,1958. Later that year he met top-ranked Spider Webband Yolande Pompey, losing on points to Webb and

outpointing Pompey.Midway through 1959 he decided to move to America,

hoping to get a crack at the world middleweight title.He also took time to return to Nigeria to marry AbigailOgbuji. Within a year she gave birth to twins. They hadsix more children.

Managed in America by Jersey Jones, Tiger won andlost to fighters such as Randy Sandy, Gene Armstrongand Joey Giardello before losing his Empire title to

DICK TIGERAFRICAN LEGENDby Ron Jackson


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Canadian Wilf Greaves on 22June, 1960 in Edmonton. Hereturned to Canada five monthslater to reclaim his title witha ninth-round knockout overGreaves.

On 23 October, 1962 inSan Francisco, Tiger gained a15-round points decision overGene Fullmer to win the NBAmiddleweight title. He was namedFighter of the Year for 1962by The Ring magazine and theBoxing Writers Association ofAmerica.

The retur n match with F ullmerended in a draw and a third fightwas set up. British promoter JackSolomons arranged for the fightto be held in Ibadan, Nigeria.

On 10 August 1963, Tiger tookcomplete control and Fullmer wasunable to continue at the bell forthe seventh round.

After t hat, T iger wa srecognised as the universal worldmiddleweight champion andawarded the Order of the British Empire.

His reign was short. He lost the title to Giardello only four monthslater and had to wait nearly two years to get a return bout.

On 21 October, 1965 Tiger regained the middleweight title whenhe outpointed Giardello over 15 rounds. Once again Ring magazineand the Boxing Writers Association chose him as Fighter of the Year.

After a non-titl e win o ver Ger man Pet er Muell er, Tiger lost the titleto Emile Griffith at Madison Square Garden on 25 April, 1966.

He was 37 and some critics felt this was the end. However, beforethe end of 1966 he moved up a division and dethroned world lightheavyweight champion Jose Torres.

After ou tpointin g Abraha m Tomica in a non-tit le figh t, Tige rknocked out Roger Rouse in defence of his belt.

In May 1968, at the age of 38, he met Bob Foster. Age, heightand reach counted against the champion and he was bombed outin the fourth round.

Still he continued, beating Frankie de Paula, Nino Benvenuti andAndy Ke ndall b efore los ing to E mile Gr iffith in July 19 70.

At the age of 40 Tiger re tired from boxing in July 19 71.

Despite losing assets and investments during the Biafran war,he managed to secure a good life for his family. He also worked asa security guard at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. InJuly 1971, Tiger was diagnosed with cancer of the liver and givenonly a few months to live. He returned to Nigeria and died on 14December, 1971 in Aba, near his bi

Documents

Zambian Traveller 85