A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation techniques
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation techniques
What is a cosmetic product?
European Regulations specify 6 functions for
cosmetic products, namely:-
� to perfume
� to clean
� to change the appearance
� to protect
� to keep in good condition
� to correct body odours
To perfume
� Perfume
� Toilet waters
� Mists & sprays
� Aromatherapy preparations
� Bath additives
� Shower gels
� Deodorants
� Body lotions
These products should
not penetrate the skinbut perfume
compounds
including essential oils may do so.
To clean
� Soap
� Syndet bars
� Bath additives
� Shower gels
� Cleansing emulsions
� Scrubs
� Cleansing masks
� Shampoos
These products shouldnot penetrate the skin
but they do affect the skin surface (Stratum
corneum – SC), they
can remove skin lipids, affect skin barrier
properties, increase cell turn- over, change
pH & cause loss of
moisture
To change the appearance
� Decorative cosmetics
� Foundation creams
� Blushers
� Lipsticks & eye shadows
� Fake tans
� Cover fine lines & wrinkles
� Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*
� Freeze facial muscles*
� DHA tanning*
� Skin lightening*
These products shouldnot penetrate the skin.
*These products needto penetrate the S.C.
To protect
� Sun protection
� Barrier creams
� Antiseptic washes
� Anti-oxidants*
� Protect immune system*
These products shouldnot penetrate the skin.
*These products needto penetrate the S.C.
To keep in good condition
� Moisturise
� Occlusive film
� Humectants
� NMF*
� Anti-oxidants*
� Support immune system*
� Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*
*Generally these
products need to
penetrate the S.C.
NMF = Urea, cholesterol,
sodium lactate, lactic acid,
amino acids, phospholipids,
sodium PCa, water
To correct body odours
� Deodorants
� Antiperspirants
� Cleansing*
� e.g.washing
These products shouldnot penetrate the skin.
*These products may
affect the S.C.
Field of application
The field of application of cosmetics is to one or more of the following:
� the epidermis
� the hair system
� the nails
� the lips
� the external genital organs
� the teeth
� the mucous membranes of the oral cavity
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Field of
Application –
anywhere
visible, with
or without
swimming costumes
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation techniques
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� The Brief
� A clear concise document produced by the marketing department after extensive market research with intended claims clearly defined.
� Or
� Woolly description full of pitfalls like “Natural” & “Organic” and claims changing as new ideas occur to originator.
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Packaging
� Already identified and selected as the ideal pack form to contain and deliver the product.
� Or
� To be decided!� Usually after 2 months stability testing on a
product with a quite unsuitable rheology for the final pack choice.
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� The Bench Mark
� An exciting & innovative product with clear functional benefits & with a similar selling price to the product required.
� Or
� Two or three totally different products, all 3x the selling price of the product required.
� Does the bench mark meet the product requirements?
� Claims, market niche, legislation?
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� The Time Table
� A program agreed between all concerned, allowing sufficient time for formulation, testing and
proceeding to manufacture via pilot scale batches.
� Or
� Marketing has a slot promised by a major store 5 months ahead. That is plenty of time surely!
� Remember formulations can fail at any
stage.
Tip
� Read the brief and also read between the lines:
� If “natural” claims then reduce non-naturals
to a minimum & no animal ingredients
� If “organic” avoid all proscribed ingredients
� E.g. Ethoxylated materials
� Most preservatives / colours / minerals /
petroleum-based materials etc.etc.
Tip
� Read the brief and also read between the lines:
� If one customer, obey special requirements
� If for sensitive areas, mucous membranes etc.
avoid unsuitable colours & preservatives
� Mucous membranes
� in the vicinity of the eyes
� on the lips
� in the oral cavity
� on the external genital organs
Tip
� Read the brief and also read between the lines:
� Identify target consumer
� Young – greasy, acne
� Cleanse, tone & leave alone
� Old – mature, dry, sensitive, lacking radiance &
resilience
� Cleanse, desquamate, moisturise, cover up
� Middle – combination skin
� Protect & moisturise
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation techniques
Sources of Information
� Look at the bench mark & competitors products?� Do they deliver their claims? � If so how?
� cosmeticsdesign-europe.com
� Chemidex.com
� Cosmeticsbusiness.com
� Suppliers representatives & web sites
� Trade press & relevant articles
� Conference presentations
� Patent literature
� Text books
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation techniques
The Regulations
Ignore at your peril
� EU 76/768/EEC – The 7th Amendment
� And all subsequent amendments
� The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2004 SI 2185
� Customer-specific requirements
� e.g. Boots GR-10
The Regulations
� EU 76/768/EEC – The 7th Amendment
� It lists those materials that cosmetics must not
contain
� Those materials subject to restrictions in field of
application and/or maximum allowed %
� A positive list of colours
� A positive list of antiperspirant materials
� A positive list of preservatives
� A positive list of UV absorbers
Mucous membranes
Be aware� More prone to irritant reactions
� Restrictions on colours
� Restrictions on preservatives� More stringent microbial rules
� Only ingestible products i.e.those with A.D.I., should be applied to the lips� Tip - match pH to area of application e.g.
Eyes are 7+/- 0.2 / Skin is ~5.3
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation techniques
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries for the
Global Marketplace
� EU / USA / Japan / Brazil etc.
� Each area has own regulations
� Particularly affecting
� Colours
� Preservatives
� Antiperspirants
� Sunscreens
� Also
� Labelling
� Names of ingredients
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation techniques
Cost effective formulation of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
� Start with current material inventory
� Don’t add cost without adding value� Colin Hession
� Keep it simple – but effective
� Look at methods of production
� Process plant availability
� Heating costs / cooling costs / mixing costs / processing time costs
� Fill using current machinery
Tip
� Think commercially
� Use materials that are already in current stock
wherever possible
� Use laboratory mixing equipment which
represents that available in the factory
� Think of the likely batch sizes
� Can they be made with existing equipment?
� If there is a problem can the formula be revised?
� Can the product be filled with existing equipment?
Tips
� Use laboratory mixing equipment which
represents that available in the factory
Tips
Use laboratory
mixing equipment
which represents
that available
in the factory
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� What is a cosmetic?
� Understanding product briefs
� From concept to product formulation
� Sources of information
� EU cosmetic regulations
� The global marketplace
� Cost effective formulation
� Product stability & preservation
� Example formulation Techniques
Stability and preservation of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
� Preservative choice affected by
� Regulations
� Type of product
� Leave-on or Wash-off?
� pH of product
� pH < 6 / pH > 7
� Other ingredients
� Parabens inactivated by ethoxylates
� Phenoxyethanol thins many emulsions
Stability and preservation of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
� Stability checking is essential
� Minimal requirements are stability testing at 4C / RT / 40C for 3 months plus light where applicable
� 45C used by some companies
� Freeze / thaw cycles
� Test in final packaging
� A product should remain stable for minimal 36 months at
RT
� Continuing preservative efficacy over testing period is
essential
� PAO = Period After Opening – depends on product type
and packaging
Tip
� Decide which preservatives can or cannot be
used
� Talk to marketing. Talk to microbiologist
� The choice could affect your product stability
� Make selection of perfume a priority
� Talk to marketing and talk to the supplier
� The choice could affect your product stability
� If possible incorporate these two items in
development samples from the outset
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� Cosmetic functions
� to perfume
� to clean
� to change the appearance
� to protect
� to keep in good condition
� to correct body odours
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� Functional products are those for which a
claim can be made, and which meet that
claim.
� They consist of the vehicle and the active
ingredient(s).
� The two parts must be compatible and the
final product must be pleasant to use.
Claims substantiation
� All proposed claims and methods of
substantiation should be agreed at the start of
product development so that a clear justification
of claims can be provided from controlled
laboratory trials.
� User trial results (responses from 50 people) or
raw material data or a combination of the above
can be used.
� From Boots document to own label suppliers
Functional skin care
� The vehicle and the active ingredient(s).
� The two parts must be compatible and the
final product must be pleasant to use.
� Which comes first?
� Depends on many factors
� Product form
� Packaging
� Claim
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
To keep in good condition
� Remove dead skin cells
� Protect from UV radiation
� Support immune system
� Protect from free radical species /ROS
� Replace lost lipids
� Moisturise
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
� Narrowing the choice
� Cost
� Supporting the claim
� Check that claim support data is realistic and believable
� Will the product support the level of use on which claims data is based?
� Compatibility with vehicle
� Compatibility with packaging
� Safety assessment
� Patent search
Remove dead skin cells
� Wash
� Scrub
� Tape stripping!
� Peels including enzymes e.g. Papain
� Alpha hydroxy acids – AHAs
� Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid
/ salicylic acid
� Fruit acids
To keep in
good
condition
AHAs: Selecting the active� Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid
� Proprietary mixtures e.g. Acifructol Complex ex Gattefosse
� Aqua (Water)
� Citric Acid
� Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract
� Citrus Medica Limonum Extract
� Lactic Acid
� Malic Acid
� Propylene Glycol
� Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract
� Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract
AHAs: Safety & legal issues
� The CIR Expert Panel concluded that glycolic and lactic Acid are safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations <10%, at final formulation pH >3.5
� Boots recommendations
� Glycolic acid must be less than 4% in formula and pH of final product must be > 3.8.
� Lactic acid must be less than 2.5% in formula and pH of final product must be > 5.
� If total AHAs are more than 4% then wording must appear on pack recommending consumers use products with AHAs in conjunction with sunscreen products.
AHAs: Selecting the active
� Possible choice
� Glycolic acid
� Plus proprietary mixture
� Combines effectiveness with natural claims
AHAs: Designing the vehicle
� Parameters
� pH 4 – 5
� Electrolytes
� Low oil content
� Penetration required
� Possible forms� o/w emulsion
� foaming mousse
� light scrub
AHAs: Designing the vehicle
� o/w emulsion
� Emulsifier suitable for pH 4 – 5
� Oil or ester resistant to acid hydrolysis
� Penetration enhancer ?
� Balance efficacy against safety
� Urea or ethoxydiglycol
� Or soften SC with emollients
� Anti-irritation ingredient e.g. Bisabolol
� Perfume / Preservatives / Rheology modifier
AHAs: Possible formulation
� 3.00% Glyceryl stearate
� 1.00% PEG-100 stearate
� 3.00% Caprylic / capric triglyceride
� 1.00% Paraffinum liquidum
� Aqua to 100%
� 0.05% Disodium EDTA
� 2.50% Glycolic acid
� 3.00% Mixed fruit acids
� 5.00% Ethoxydiglycol
� 0.50% Bisabolol
� 0.20% Xanthan gum
� Fragrance
� Preservatives e.g. Methyl + propyl paraben
� pH adjusted to 3.8 – 4.3
Protect from solar radiation
� Sunscreen Actives� Organic screens
� Less expensive
� Well known properties & technology
� But possible irritation
� Possibly unstable
� Product / pack interactions
� Inorganic
� Safe
� Broad spectrum
� But whitening on skin
� Drag on application
To keep in
good
condition
UV Protect: Selecting the active
� Dependent on
� Required SPF
� Is UVA protection required?
� Intended market – legislation?
� Intended vehicle & pack form
� Clear gel
� o/w emulsion
� w/o emulsion
� Oil
� Spray
UV Protect: Selecting the active
� Possible answer� Organic UV absorber
� plus inorganic dispersion� Not suitable for oil or clear gel
� e.g. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate – UVB
� TiO2 dispersion in oil phase to extend UV protection into UVA or
� ZnO dispersion for increased UVA protection
UV Protect: Designing the vehicle
Design parameters
� pH
� ZnO approx 8
� Effect of inorganic dispersion aid
� Solubility of active
� Skin penetration not wanted
� Water-resistant
� Pleasant to apply
UV Protect: Possible formulation
� 3.00% Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
� 2.00% Ethylhexyl Palmitate
� 5.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
� 1.50% Dimethicone &/or cyclopentasiloxane
� 0.50% Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
� 12.50% Titanium Dioxide dispersion in oil
� 3.50% Cera Alba (Beeswax)
� 3.50% Sorbitan Palmitate
� Aqua (Water) to 100%
� 2.00% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
� 2.00% Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + silica
� 3.50% Polysorbate 20
� 0.30% Sodium Lactate
� Fragrance / Preservatives
Support immune system
� Abstract USP 6,843,995
� The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing an active complex comprised of an extract from truffles (Tuberaceae) in a cosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized. A preferred active complex is one that additionally contains a champagne product. Cosmeticpreparations containing this active complex lead to an improved stimulation of the immune system, an improved regenerative effect and thus to an improved balance in the ecosystem of the skin.
To keep in
good
condition
Protect against free radicals
� Anti- oxidants� Vitamin E - Tocopherol
� Vitamin C – Ascorbic acid & ascorbyl compounds
� Ferulic acid
� Superoxide dismutase
� BHT / BHA / Propyl gallate / Thio compounds
� Numerous plant extracts e.g.
� Lycopene from tomatoes
� Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extract
� Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract
� Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract
� Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) leaf extract
� Salix nigra (Willow) bark extract
To keep in
good
condition
Replace lost lipids
� As skin ages the ceramide content of the SC decreases.
� Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are effective in restoring lost lipids and the barrier functions of the skin.
� Ceramides AKA Sphingosines (9 identified)
� Fatty acid = linoleic acid particularly effective
� Together with cholesterol, lamella structures are formed, which penetrate upper SC.
To keep in
good
condition
Moisturise
� There is a water- gradient from the lower levels of the skin to its surface where it evaporates as transepidermal
water loss (TEWL)
� There is a decrease in moisture content from the base
layers to the surface (70% - > 10%)
� As skin ages it loses more moisture but all skin may be subject to increased moisture loss through
environmental conditions
� Moisturising is the basic requirement for nearly all skin care products
To keep in
good
condition
Moisturise
� Select the active
� The choice of moisturising ingredients is
very wide
� Petrolatum & other oils & fats form an
occlusive film, virtually preventing TEWL
� Lanolin has moisture holding properties
and can penetrate upper SC
Moisturise
� Select the active
� Glycerin & other hygroscopic humectants attract water to themselves; with more moisture
on the skin there is a reduction in loss through evaporation
� Proteins hold moisture and are substantive to skin
� NMF duplicates the skin moisturising system
� Lamellar structures penetrate SC, restoring its
natural barrier properties
Moisturising1,2,6-Hexanetriol Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate Lactose PEG-8
2,3-Butanediol Chitosan PCA Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium ChloridePEG-9
Acetamide MEA Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan CopolymerLupine Amino Acids PEG-90
Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract Choline Chloride Lysine PCA Polyamino Sugar Condensate
Adenophora Stricta Root Extract Copper PCA Maltitol Polyglyceryl Sorbitol
Agarose Corn Glycerides Manganese PCA Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
Alanyl Glutamine Diglycerin Mannitol Polyglycerylmethacrylate
Albatrellus Confluens (Mushroom) ExtractDimethyl Imidazolidinone MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk Potassium Lactate
Albumen Extract Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Menthyl PCA Potassium PCA
Alcaligenes Polysaccharides Erythritol Methoxy PEG-10 PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether
Algae Ethoxydiglycol Oleate Methoxy PEG-100 PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether
Aloe Andongensis Extract Ethylhexyl PCA Methoxy PEG-16 PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine
Aloe Andongensis Leaf Juice Fructose Methoxy PEG-40 PPG-6-Sorbeth-245
Aloe Arborescens Leaf Protoplasts Glucamine Methyl Gluceth-10 PPG-6-Sorbeth-500
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Gluconic Acid Methyl Gluceth-20 Propylene Glycol
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide Glucosamine Orange Peel Wax Saccharide Hydrolysate
Amidinoproline Glucose Panthenol Saccharide Isomerate
Anserine Glucose Glutamate PCA Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Arginine PCA Glucuronic Acid PEG-10 Sesame Amino Acids
Bacillus/Rice Bran Extract/Soybean Extract Ferment FiltrateGlycereth-12 PEG-10 Propylene Glycol Sodium Aspartate
Backhousia Anisata Leaf Extract Glycereth-20 PEG-100 Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate
Banksia Spinulosa Flower Extract Glycereth-26 PEG-12 Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate
Benzyl Hyaluronate Glycereth-7 PEG-135 Sodium Glucuronate
Bidens Pilosa Extract Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate PEG-14 Sodium Lactate
Bifida Ferment Extract Glycerin PEG-15 Butanediol Sodium PCA
Bifida/Soybean Extract Ferment Glycol PEG-16 Sorbeth-20
Bis-hydroxyethyl Tocopherylsuccinoylamido HydroxypropaneHexacosyl Glycol PEG-18 Sorbeth-30
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl SilaneHydrogenated Honey PEG-180 Sorbeth-40
Bittern Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate PEG-2 Lactamide Sorbeth-6
Bixa Orellana Seed Oil Hydrolyzed Corn Starch PEG-20 Sorbitol
Black Strap Powder Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PEG-20 Acetate CopolymerPEG-200 Sucrose
Butyl Ethyl Propanediol Hydroxyethyl Sorbitol PEG-240 TEA-Lactate
C30-45 Alkyl Methicone Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey PEG-32 TEA-PCA
Calcium Fructoborate Inositol PEG-4 Trehalose Dihydrate
Calcium PCA Lactamide MEA PEG-40 Urea
Caprylyl Glycol/Glycerin/Polyacrylic Acid CopolymerLactamidopropyl Trimonium ChloridePEG-55 Urea-D-Glucuronic Acid
Carnitine HCI Lactic Acid PEG-6 Xylitol
Caryocar Coriaceum Seed Oil PEG-60 Xylitylglucoside
Cellulose Succinate PEG-75 Yeast Polysaccharides
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
� The brief
� Target skin type & area of application
� Claims
� The cost
� Petrolatum / glycerin etc are cheap
� Ceramides / yeast ferments etc are expensive
� Botanicals have consumer appeal
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
� The pack form
� Spray / bottle / tube / jar
� The vehicle
� Gel / lotion / cream
� Other actives
� Multi-functional
Moisturise
� Narrowing the choice
� If a gel
� What thickening system?
� Carbomers / cellulose / mineral / alginates?
� pH restraints?
� Clarity required?
� Oils & Fragrance create problems
� Compatibility issues?
Moisturise
� Narrowing the choice
� If a gel
� What thickening system?
� Exposed to light?
� Photo-degradation
� Thinning and/or discolouration
� Preservative system?
� Mixing requirements?
� Heating / cooling / high shear / slow
mixing
Moisturise
� Narrowing the choice
� Select gel form
� Carbomer
� pH 5.5 - 7.5
� No electrolytes
� Water- soluble actives
� Chelate ions
� Protect against UV
� Cold mixing possible
� High shear not required
Moisturising gel
� Carbomer based
� Chelate + UV Absorber (EDTA2Na +B4)
+ Neutraliser (e.g. NaOH or TEA or AMP)
+ Preservative system (e.g. Parabens)
� Humectant (e.g. Glycerin or PG or Sorbitol)
� Active e.g.
� Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
� Hydrolysed wheat protein
Moisturise
� Narrowing the choice� If a lotion
� What emulsifying system?
� Anionic / cationic / non- ionic
� w/o or o/w or w/Si/w
� pH restraints?
� Compatibility issues?
� Fragrance / polar & non- polar oils
� Stability
� Preservative system?
� Mixing requirements
� Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing
Moisturise
� Narrowing the choice
� If a cream
� What emulsifying system?
� Anionic / cationic / non- ionic
� w/o or o/w or w/Si/w
� pH restraints?
� Compatibility issues?
� Stability
� Use of hydrocolloid
� Preservative system?
� Mixing requirements
� Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing
Moisturising emulsions
� Aqueous Phase
� Oil phase
� Emulsifier system
� Rheological modifier
� Preservative system
� Active ingredients
� Fragrance
Moisturising emulsions
� Aqueous Phase
� Humectant / Moisturiser – CTFA makes no difference but JW thinks of humectants as hygroscopic materials used as much to keep the product moist as for moisturising skin.
� Humectants
� Glycerin / Sorbitol / Propylene glycol / Polyethylene glycol (PEG) & various sugars
� Moisturisers
� Innumerable – 398 from Acetamide MEA to ZymomonasFerment Extract in CTFA Dictionary, including sea water!
� Actives
� Most actives are water-soluble
� Preservative system
Cascading theory
means select a
number of emollients
so that the sensorial
feel is spread
throughout the time
of application.
Cosmetics should feel
good!
Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Cognis
Size of circles: proportional to spreadability
Color of circles: polar non-polar
Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: DegussaPP = pour point, CP = cloud
point
surface tension [mN/m]
viscosity [mPas]17
2 10 100
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
25
21
19
2
1
45 6
7
8
129
13
14
1718
15
16
310
20
11
22
2423
No. INCI Name PP (CP) [°C]
1 Cyclopentasiloxane <-30
2 Diethylhexylcarbonate <-30
3 Isopropyl Myristate 8
4 Hexyl Laurate -11 (-2)
5 Isopropyl Palmitate 14
6
7
Decyl Cocoate 16
8
Ethylhexyl Palmitate 1
9
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate -6
10
Ethylhexyl Stearate 8
11
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 0 (2)
12 -6 (4)
13 Cetearyl Isononanoate 9 (12)
14 Isocetyl Palmitate 0
15 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride -4
16 Cetyl Dimethione 14 (18)
17 0 (3)
18
PPG-3 Myristyl Ether
-19
19Mineral Oil
-30 (-20)
20
Octyldodecanol
< -30
21 -11 (-1)
22
Avocado Oil
0 (13)
23
PPG-11 Stearyl Ether
< -3024
-5Cetyl Dimethione
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate -2 (5)
Decyl Oleate
Triisostearin
25
Dimethicone
< -30PPG-14 Butyl Ether
light, freshlight, fresh
caring, rich
Moisturising emulsions
� Oil Phase
� Watch out for
� Rancidity
� Oil phase incompatibilities e.g.
� Waxes crystallising
� Dimethicone / Mineral oil
� Melt & mix oil phase together; is it clear? Does
it stay homogenous when cooled?
� Dragging / greasiness / odours
Moisturising emulsions
� What emulsifying system?
� Anionic
� o/w
� More commonly associated with cleansing surfactants
� SLS - irritant
� TEA-Stearate – OK for cleansers / not leave-on
� Potassium cetyl phosphate – forms liquid
crystals, worth attention
Moisturising emulsions
� What emulsifying system?
� Cationic� w/o
� More commonly associated with hair conditioning
� Irritancy concerns
� However at least one material supplier is promoting their use with the following claims:-
� Cationic O/W emulsifier based on renewable raw materials with excellent emulsifying properties
Moisturising emulsions
� What emulsifying system?� Cationic� Excellent emulsification behaviour� Light emulsions, matte finish
� Powdery, smooth and dry skin feel after application
� Low greasiness, stickiness or tack� Inherent moisturisation� Substantive to skin
� Extraordinary and unique skin feel
Moisturising emulsions
� What emulsifying system?
� Non-ionic
� o/w or w/o
� Selection using HLB system possible
� Sorbitan esters / ethoxylated pair
� e.g. Sorbitan stearate / Polysorbate- 20
� Alkoxylated alcohols
� e.g. Ceteareth- 20
� But move against ethoxylates!
Moisturising emulsions
� What emulsifying system?
� Recent introductions of sucrose esters and
understanding the benefits of liquid crystal formation is driving new formulations
Moisturising emulsions
� Benefits of liquid crystal formation
Water, fatty acids,
cholesterol,
triglycerides and
ceramides form the
lamellar (layered) gel-
like lipid system of the
horny layer.
Moisturising emulsions
� Non-ionic liquid crystal forming emulsifiers
� Cetearyl glucoside
� Cetearyl olivate / Sorbitan olivate
� Sucrose cocoate / Sorbitan stearate
� Sorbitan stearate / Sorbityl laurate
� Cetearyl polyglucoside
� Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
� Cetearyl polyglucoside / polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate
Moisturising emulsions
Moisturising emulsions
� Liquid crystals are states of matter that exist in between the solid and the ordinary liquid phase. The main characteristic of the phase is the existence of partial ordering (positional and orientational) like that of the crystal phase but the phase has the ability to flow like a liquid.
Moisturising emulsions
� Oil Phase
� Refer to Cognis cascading theory of emollients
� Degussa selection chart
� Cyclopentasiloxane stops soaping up
� Vegetable oils are polar (& popular)
� Capric/caprylic triglyceride is good stuff
� Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and/or glyceryl
stearate helps stabilise LC structures
Moisturising emulsions
� Rheology modifier� Xanthan gum
� Minerals – e.g. Bentonite / Veegum / Laponite
� Carbomer
� Acrylates copolymer
� Sclerotium Gum
� Mannan
� Modified starch
� Gum tragacanth
� Alginates
� Silica
� Cellulose derivatives
Moisturising emulsions
•Preservative system
•Affected by other ingredients
•pH
•Market trends
•Active ingredients
•Affected by marketing claims
•Other ingredients
•pH
•Fragrance
•No Fragrance / Perfume / Essential Oils
•Affected by named allergens
Moisturising emulsions: possible formulation
7.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride
2.50% Cetearyl alcohol
5.00% Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil
1.50% Cyclopentasiloxane
0.01% Ceramide
0.10% Tocopherol
Aqua (Water) to 100%
0.08% Disodium EDTA
1.50% Cetearyl polyglucoside (emulsifier)
0.20% Xanthan gum
0.50% Niacinamide
5.00% Glycerin
1.00% Sodium PCa
3.00% Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
2.00% Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract
Preservatives / Fragrance / pH adjusters
DLC Question
A major brand of moisturising lotion lists its
ingredients as � Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Paraffinum
liquidum, Petrolatum, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl
Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Steareth 100,
Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragrance,
Potassium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin,
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium
EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Red 4.
DLC Question
Claims are:-
� Softens and smoothes for radiant skin. � Light, Non- Greasy Formula.
� Dermatologist Tested. � Non- Comedogenic (Won't Clog Pores).
� Moisturizes- Penetrates quickly, providing your skin with immediate surge of active moisture to soothe dryness without greasy feel.
� Improves- Helps your skin replenish its own essential fluids so skin is softer, smoother and more supple.
� Restores- Works like the essential fluids abundant in young skin to help restore skin to its natural beauty and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
DLC Question
� Using your knowledge of ingredients briefly describe the function of each ingredient in this product, give your best guess for the % by weight of the individual ingredients and in no more than 100 words write a label description of the properties of this product aimed to sell it to a consumer.
DLC Question
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Fragrance
Potassium Hydroxide
DMDM Hydantoin
Iodopropynyl
Butylcarbamate
Tetrasodium EDTA
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Red 4
Aqua
Cetyl Palmitate
Glycerin
Paraffinum liquidum
Petrolatum
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Hydroxystearate
Stearic Acid
Steareth 100
Dimethicone
DLC Question
� It is your task as head of product development to
reformulate this product in order to make strong
moisturising claims and to avoid using materials
that are no longer perceived as appealing to
consumers. There are no financial restraints on
the material costs.
� Finally, list the reformulated product ingredients
in descending order of concentration, show their
approximate % in the new formula and rewrite
the label copy to appeal to the target consumer.
If you get it right!
And if you get it wrong!