Presentation Presentation
on on
Garment and garment Garment and garment
defects defects By Muhammad Zubair
Introduction Introduction
of of
Knitted and Woven Garment StylesKnitted and Woven Garment Styles
Garment Styles IntroductionGarment Styles Introduction
Styles for Tops.Styles for Tops.
•• Crew neckCrew neck
•• V neckV neck
•• Mock neckMock neck
•• Turtle neckTurtle neck
•• Base ball crewBase ball crew
•• PoloPolo
•• RugbyRugby
•• HenleyHenley
•• HooderHooder
Styles for bottomsStyles for bottoms
•• MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant
•• Kids Kids ¾¾ pant pant
•• Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant
•• MenMen’’s Bermudas Bermuda
••
Crew neckCrew neck
V neckV neck
Mock neckMock neck
Turtle neck Turtle neck
Base ball crew Base ball crew
Polo ShirtPolo Shirt
RugbyRugby
HenleyHenley
HooderHooder
Hooder
MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant
Kids Kids ¾¾ pant pant
Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant
MenMen’’s Bermudas Bermuda
Flow Chart of Textile IndustryFlow Chart of Textile Industry
Fabric
Cutting
Finishing
Sewing
Packing
Dyeing
QualityQuality
““ To make garment according to buyers To make garment according to buyers
requirement. requirement. ””
�� Make garments free of any defects.Make garments free of any defects.
�� Keep garment measurements according to buyerKeep garment measurements according to buyer’’s requirement.s requirement.
�� Make garment aesthetically goodMake garment aesthetically good..
FabricFabric
used in Garmentsused in Garments
Knitted fabricKnitted fabric
Woven fabricWoven fabric
Wale
“Columns of knitted loops
along the length of fabric”
Unit: Wales / cm
Knitted fabric: Knitted fabric:
•• CourseCourse
““Rows of knitted loops Rows of knitted loops
across the width of fabricacross the width of fabric””
Unit: Course / cmUnit: Course / cm
Main Knitted fabric typesMain Knitted fabric types
•• JerseyJersey
•• RibRib
•• InterlockInterlock
•• PiquePique
•• FleeceFleece
Woven fabric: Woven fabric: weaving is the process of interlacing weaving is the process of interlacing
two or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce woventwo or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce wovenfabicfabic..
�� The yarn which The yarn which
run in the length run in the length
wise direction are wise direction are
called warp (End) called warp (End)
.While those .While those
which run cross which run cross
wise are called wise are called
Filling or weft Filling or weft
(Pick).(Pick).
Main woven fabric typesMain woven fabric types
•• Plain Plain
•• Twill Twill
•• Satin Satin
•• Canvas Canvas
Cutting ProcessCutting Process
Contents of cutting processContents of cutting process
•• Introduction of patternsIntroduction of patterns
•• Understanding of lay plans and consumptionUnderstanding of lay plans and consumption
•• Spreading TechniquesSpreading Techniques
•• cutting techniques and equipmentcutting techniques and equipment
Cutting Flow chartCutting Flow chart
Fabric
receiving
Trim sheet
making
(roll to roll)
Mock ups
verification
Lot to lot
Continuity shade
cards making
Lot to lot
Cutting plans
gives to masterLay spreading
Specs &
consumption
Random cutting
audit
BundlingIn house
embellishments
100 % cut
panel audit
Induction in
Sewing
commercial
embellishmentsRe bundling
Automatic SpreadingAutomatic Spreading
Cutting TechniquesCutting Techniques
�� Automatic CutterAutomatic Cutter
Sewing Sewing
Sewing IntroductionSewing Introduction
•• Sewing needlesSewing needles
•• Stitch types & their characteristicsStitch types & their characteristics
•• Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
Sewing Machine TypesSewing Machine Types
•• Single needle lock stitch machineSingle needle lock stitch machine
•• Double needle lock stitch machineDouble needle lock stitch machine
•• Three thread over lock machineThree thread over lock machine
•• Four thread over lock machineFour thread over lock machine
•• Flat lock machineFlat lock machine
•• Buttonhole making machineButtonhole making machine
•• Button attach machineButton attach machine
•• Bar tack machine. Bar tack machine.
LockLock--Stitch MachineStitch Machine
OverOver--lock Machinelock Machine
FlatFlat--Lock MachineLock Machine
�� Buttonhole machineButtonhole machine
Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
�� Button attach machineButton attach machine
Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
Packing inspectionPacking inspection
Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection
�� Packing inspection is an important part of qualityPacking inspection is an important part of quality
assurance system.assurance system.
�� Packing indicates how many product will be shipped Packing indicates how many product will be shipped together in the same box or container.together in the same box or container.
�� Some critical buyerSome critical buyer’’s have very specific requirement for s have very specific requirement for packaging because of their automation systems and the packaging because of their automation systems and the number of items that are processed on a daily basis.number of items that are processed on a daily basis.
Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection
For exampleFor example
�� Some buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion of Some buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion of
carton or side portion of carton according to ware house carton or side portion of carton according to ware house
requirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong or requirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong or
unreadable barcode stickers.unreadable barcode stickers.
�� Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging. Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging.
Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection
Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection
The following are the inspection points for garmentThe following are the inspection points for garment
presentation.presentation.
�� Garment balancingGarment balancing
a) Even shouldersa) Even shoulders
b) Even sleevesb) Even sleeves
c) Even armholesc) Even armholes
d) Even Under armsd) Even Under arms
e) Even sidese) Even sides
f ) Even sleeve / cuff openingf ) Even sleeve / cuff opening
g) Even side ventsg) Even side vents
Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection
�� Garment pressingGarment pressing
a) No wrinklesa) No wrinkles
b) No iron marksb) No iron marks
c) No press folding marksc) No press folding marks
�� Garment shapeGarment shape
a) Even neck / collar shapea) Even neck / collar shape
b) Even arm hole shapeb) Even arm hole shape
c) even back moon shapec) even back moon shape
d) Even hem bottom shaped) Even hem bottom shape
Final inspectionFinal inspection•• Check packingCheck packing
•• Choose samplesChoose samples
•• Check against style sheetCheck against style sheet
•• Check against approvalsCheck against approvals
•• Check garment QualityCheck garment Quality
•• Check garment measurements.Check garment measurements.
•• Make inspection report.Make inspection report.
AQL INTRODUCTIONAQL INTRODUCTION
AQL INTRODUCTIONAQL INTRODUCTION
AQL introductionAQL introduction
AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.
�� AQL charts containsAQL charts contains
1) Lot size1) Lot size
2) Sample size2) Sample size
3) Acceptance / Rejection Level3) Acceptance / Rejection Level
AQL 0.065
Tighter
2.5
AQL 6.5
Easier
AQL introductionAQL introduction
AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection. 1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection.
2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection.2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection.
3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment 3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment is pass. is pass.
4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is fail.fail.
�� Sample size for a given lot size will change with the change ofSample size for a given lot size will change with the change of levels. The levels. The acceptance and rejection levels will also change according to leacceptance and rejection levels will also change according to levels.vels.
�� The AQL levels for inThe AQL levels for in--line, during production and final inspections for line, during production and final inspections for different buyers can be different.different buyers can be different.
Types of DefectsTypes of Defects
A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects
B.B. Knitting and Weaving DefectsKnitting and Weaving Defects
C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects
D.D. Embellishment DefectsEmbellishment Defects
E.E. Trims DefectsTrims Defects
F.F. Stitching DefectsStitching Defects
A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects
•• Fluff / ContaminationFluff / Contamination
•• KnotKnot
•• Yarn Variation / BarreYarn Variation / Barre
•• Contrast SeedsContrast Seeds
•• HairinessHairiness
Fluff Fluff
contaminationcontamination
Knot Knot
Yarn variation / Yarn band.Yarn variation / Yarn band.
104. 104. Trash / Contrast seedsTrash / Contrast seeds
105. 105. Hairiness Hairiness
B.B. Knitting and weaving DefectsKnitting and weaving Defects
•• HoleHole
•• Fabric / Needle RunFabric / Needle Run
•• Incorrect Fabric WeightIncorrect Fabric Weight
•• Stop mark Stop mark
•• MisMis pickpick
•• Loose endLoose end
Hole Hole
Fabric/ Needle run Fabric/ Needle run
Incorrect fabric weightIncorrect fabric weight
460 GSM
(Approved)
160 GSM
(Reject)
Stop markStop mark
MisMis pick pick
Loose end Loose end
C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects
•• Color ShadingColor Shading
•• Dye / Finishing streaks / creasesDye / Finishing streaks / creases
•• Shade patchesShade patches
•• PillingPilling
•• Yellowing of white fabricYellowing of white fabric
Color shadingColor shading
Approved Reject
Dyeing or finishing streaksDyeing or finishing streaks
Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing
. . Shade patches / Uneven dyingShade patches / Uneven dying
Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing116 . 116 . Calendar lineCalendar line
Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing117 . 117 . PillingPilling
Embellishment DefectsEmbellishment Defects
Unraveling embellishmentUnraveling embellishment
Peeling EmbellishmentPeeling Embellishment
Cracking EmbellishmentCracking Embellishment
Poor coveragePoor coverage
Approved
Reject
Incorrect color shade Incorrect color shade
Embellishment Embellishment
Approved Reject
Incorrect size EmbellishmentIncorrect size Embellishment
Approved
Reject
Incorrect placement of Incorrect placement of
Embellishment Embellishment
Approved
Reject
Untrimmed thread EmbroideryUntrimmed thread Embroidery
Hoop Pleat MarksHoop Pleat Marks
Embellishment Missing Embellishment Missing
Embellishment not as specified Embellishment not as specified
ApprovedReject
Trims defects Trims defects
Missing trimMissing trim
Insecure trimInsecure trim
Broken trimBroken trim
Inoperable trimInoperable trim
Incorrect color / shade / Code trimIncorrect color / shade / Code trim
Incorrect size trimIncorrect size trim
Trim not as specifiedTrim not as specified
Misaligned trimMisaligned trim
Illegible trimIllegible trim
Incorrect placement of trimIncorrect placement of trim
Sewing DefectsSewing Defects
DamagesDamages
•• Broken stitchesBroken stitches
•• Skip stitchSkip stitch
•• Open seamOpen seam
•• Needle holeNeedle hole
•• Needle chewNeedle chew
•• Poor reworkPoor rework
Sewing defects Sewing defects
ConstructionConstruction
Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck
Crooked collarCrooked collar
High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point
High / Low placketHigh / Low placket
Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket
Exposed underExposed under--placketplacket
Pleat / Hole at placket boxPleat / Hole at placket box
High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Raw edges Raw edges
Overrun stitch Overrun stitch
Insecure stitch endings Insecure stitch endings
Incorrect tension / Graining Incorrect tension / Graining
Uneven stitching Uneven stitching
Puckering Puckering
Pleat Pleat
MisalignmentMisalignment
OverlappingOverlapping
RopingRoping
Sewing problems Sewing problems
NegligenceNegligenceStrip mismatchingStrip mismatching
Uneven hemUneven hem
Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count
Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance
Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component
Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination
Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads
Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified
Sewing problems Sewing problems
FabricFabricTwisted garmentTwisted garment
Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used
Shading within garmentShading within garment
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Broken stitchesBroken stitches
Sewing problems Sewing problems Skip stitchesSkip stitches
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Open seamOpen seam
Needle holeNeedle hole
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Needle chewNeedle chew
Summary SlideSummary Slide
�� Sewing problems Sewing problems
Poor reworkPoor rework
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Crooked collarCrooked collar
Sewing problems Sewing problems
High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point
Sewing problems Sewing problems
High / Low placketHigh / Low placket
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Exposed under placketExposed under placket
Sewing problems & RemediesSewing problems & Remedies
Pleat / hole at placketPleat / hole at placket
Sewing problems Sewing problems
High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Raw edgesRaw edges
Overrun stitchOverrun stitch
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Insecure stitch endingsInsecure stitch endings
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Incorrect tension / grainingIncorrect tension / graining
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Uneven stitchingUneven stitching
Sewing problems Sewing problems
PuckeringPuckeringSewing problems Sewing problems
PleatPleat
Sewing problems Sewing problems
MisalignmentMisalignment
Sewing problems Sewing problems
OverlappingOverlapping
Sewing problems Sewing problems
RopingRoping
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Stripe mismatchingStripe mismatching
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Uneven hemUneven hem
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Approved Reject
Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Approved Reject
Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Approved Reject
Twisted garmentTwisted garment
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Approved Reject
Shading with in garmentsShading with in garments
Sewing problems Sewing problems
Clock Wise Clock Wise
Garment InspectionGarment Inspection
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Thank YouThank You