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Module: 3
Daily Skincare routine
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This module is all about skincare routines. In the first section, you’ll learn about which cleansers, toners,
moisturizers and exfoliators are good to use for those with acne. In the next section, we’ll go through a
range of natural and household remedies you could try in your skincare routine. Following this, we’ll
provide some advice on comedogenic ingredients and scar treatments. The module will finish up with a
section on the caveman regimen.
3.1 Product types
3.2 Natural and household remedies
3.3 Skincare advice
3.4 Caveman regimen
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3.1 Product types
There are a huge range of product types to use on your skin as part of your skincare routine. In this
section we’ll go through some advice on cleansers, toners, moisturizers and exfoliators, with a specific
focus on the products that will be beneficial for those who suffer from acne.
3.1.1 Cleansers
Cleansers used on acne-prone skin should be nonabrasive, gentle and alcohol free. It should match your
skin tone, whether that is dry, oily or a combination.
If you want a cleanser with added ingredients to fight acne and improve the appearance of the skin, you
might want to choose a medicated cleanser. Look for ingredients such as salicylic acid (helps to clear out
blocked pores, and can reduce redness and swelling), benzoyl peroxide (kills bacteria and exfoliates the
skin) and sodium sulfacetamide (prevents the growth of bacteria).
3.1.2 Toners
Those with acne are often recommended to use toners, which are also known as clarifiers or astringents.
These are liquid solutions, usually applied to the skin with a pad or cotton ball after cleansing. Said to
remove traces of cleanser residue, excess oil, makeup and dirt, they are not washed off, and are followed
by moisturizing.
Again, looking for products that contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or other acne fighting ingredients
will make the toner more effective in clearing up your skin. That said, a toner alone is not powerful
enough to clear up persistent acne.
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One common myth about toners is that they close the pores, which is not true. Pores do not open and
close with one wipe of toner, and this is misleading advice. Toners are not a skincare necessity, and
some people prefer not to use toners at all.
Often, those who choose to use them are those who have oily skin types, as toners can reduce oily
shine and keep skin from being too greasy. However, those with sensitive skin, or those using acne
treatments that dry out the skin, may choose not to use toner. This is because many toners have a
high alcohol content, and alcohol is drying to the skin. Some people may find that using a toner
worsens their breakouts. In conclusion, if you decide to use a toner, choose one that includes an
acne fighting ingredient such as salicylic acid, is low in alcohol, and does not burn or sting the skin.
3.1.3 Moisturizers
Moisturizers treat your skin when it is dry by helping it retain moisture. It also prevents it from drying
out again.
When selecting a moisturizer for skin that is prone to acne, there are certain ingredients that should be
avoided. These include alcohol, which can dry out the skin too much and lead to inflammation, mineral
oils, petroleum and silicones that can clog your pores.
Some experts advise those with acne to use moisturizers that are water-based, as this is a lighter
moisturizer that can provide moisture but prevent breakouts. Gel or oil-based moisturizers can clog
pores and aggravate acne. As with all the other skin products, products with salicylic acid and benzoyl
peroxide can help prevent acne breakouts. Be careful, though, that these active ingredients are not in all
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the products you use, as using too much can dry out and irritate the skin. Some moisturizers may
contain the gentle chemical exfoliants mentioned in section 2.1.2, and you may also want to look for
humectants glycerin and hyaluronic acid. These pulls water to the skin in order to retain its natural
moisture.
3.1.4 Exfoliators
Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells through creating friction against the skin, or
through the use of an acid or enzyme. This could be done with a number of different products, or even
with a washcloth.
There are two types of exfoliants, physical and chemical. Physical exfoliants use an abrasive implement
or ingredient to remove the dead skin cells. Examples of this are microdermabrasion, and an over the
counter face scrub. These treatments are often not advised for those suffering with acne, especially for
those with inflamed acne. This is because they are too abrasive and will inflame and irritate the skin,
leading to more breakouts.
Chemical exfoliants use an enzyme or acid to dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells against the
surface of the skin. These may be found in lotions, toners, gels, masks, or other products. These
exfoliants are used in chemical peels available at spas, which can be beneficial for acne. Some people
prefer stronger chemical peels, and these are discussed in more detail in module 3.
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Some examples of chemical exfoliants include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and tartaric
acid, as well as adapalene and tazarotene. These can be beneficial for fighting against acne, though
it is advised to use them sparingly and use only one type of product at one time. If you are taking
any medications for acne, whether oral or topical, speak to your doctor to find out if your chemical
exfoliant is compatible.
3.2 Natural and household remedies
When people are trying to fight acne, they often turn to natural or household remedies. In this
section we run down some of the more popular ones that have been shown to work for many people.
If you decide to try these out, it is advised to do so one remedy at a time for a period of two weeks to
one month, to see how the remedy works for you.
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3.2.1 Natural remedies
Honey mask – It is often advised that raw, organic honey should be used, rather than the processed
honey that we normally eat. Raw honey was used in ancient times as an ointment for burns, scrapes and
other skin conditions, and has natural antibacterial properties. To use a honey mask, use one teaspoon
and spread it over the face. Leave on for 15-60 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat the face dry.
Egg white mask – Egg white tightens and tones skin, shrinking large pores. It also contains lysozyme, an
enzyme which combats bacteria that causes acne. Whisk an egg white and apply to the skin for 15
minutes. Some people also choose to add honey and lemon juice to this mix.
Teatree oil – Some people apply tea tree oil directly to pimples, diluted with water, via a tissue, cotton
bud or cotton pad. It has natural antibacterial properties and dries out whiteheads, pimples, blackheads
and other blemishes. Others find it is too harsh for their skin, and use a few drops in an aloe vera gel or
with raw, organic honey.
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Jojoba oil – If used wrongly, jojoba oil can cause acne, but when used correctly can help it. It is very rich,
so it is advised to mix with aloe vera gel 1:1, or with a non-comedogenic moisturizer. This should be
applied to the skin sparingly, once a day or less.
Witch hazel – Witch hazel is an astringent and a disinfectant, with high levels of active ingredients that
can reduce swelling, cellular damage and inflammation. It also makes pores look smaller and halts
excess oil production. Apply directly to the skin on acne lesions (on its own or combined with tea tree oil
or apple cider vinegar) with a cotton ball.
Urine therapy – Some people have found that urine therapy has helped them cure their cystic acne.
Using their morning urine, they use a cotton pad and wipe it across their skin. Some people opt to let it
air dry, while others wash their face after 15 minutes.
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Lemon juice – Some forms of acne can be caused by imbalance in the pH of the skin. Drinking the juice
of two lemons twice a day, once in the morning, one hour prior to eating, and once at night, one hour
after eating, has proven effective for some people. Some choose to drink it straight, while others do so
with water.
Shea butter – Shea butter contains UV blockers, vitamin A (the main ingredient in Accutane),
vitamin E (which is low in acne sufferers, lupeolcinnamate (an acid with anti inflammatory
properties) and vitamin D. Studies have found that shea butter brightens the skin, reduces the
appearance of wrinkles, and improve moisture levels in the skin. Apply to dry skin after washing
as a moisturizer.
Clay – Bentonite clay is thought to help control the excessive production of sebum and draw out
toxins from the skin. The high silica content also means it softens skin. After washing your face,
mix the clay with water (and optionally, a few drops of tea tree oil), and apply as a mask. Leave
on for five to fifteen minutes and rinse with lukewarm water. Repeat once a week or more
frequently if desired.
Salicylic acid– This acid is derived from willow tree bark, and penetrates into the pore to
dissolve the build up of dead skin. It encourages the shedding of the skin’s top layer, preventing
congested pores. Use with shea butter, as shea butter has been found to dramatically increase
the healing properties of salicylic acid.
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3.2.2 Household remedies
Aspirin mask– The active ingredient in aspirin is very similar chemically to salicylic acid. It is an anti
inflammatory, which is why it can be effective in treating acne. One to seven pills are crushed and mixed
with distilled water to make a paste. Some people also choose to use organic honey to make the mask
less drying. Apply this paste to the face and leave 5 to 15 minutes. Use up to twice a week.
Calamine lotion– The active ingredient in calamine lotion is zinc oxide, which reduces inflammation
and soothes redness. It has an astringent effect with reduces acne outbreaks by absorbing excess sebum.
Many people apply calamine lotion as a mask and leave it overnight. Some reported using it every night,
then stretching it to three to five day intervals when they noticed a decrease in its effectiveness.
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Apple cider vinegar – Some people use apple cider vinegar as a toner, while others drink it. It is said to
be beneficial when used as a toner as it increases the acid level in the skin, contributing to the acid
mantle. Wipe a mixture of apple cider vinegar and water over your face with a cotton ball. The apple
cider vinegar should be organic, unfiltered and unpasteurized, and should contain the ‘mother’ in it. This
should then be washed off. To drink it, it is recommended to mix 2 tbsp of apple cider vinegar with 2
cups of water. Some people also recommend adding baking soda.
Epsom salts – Epsom salts have anti-inflammatory properties that reduce swelling, pain and redness.
Epsom salts diluted in water can be used as a face wash.
Milk of magnesia – Though generally used as a laxative, it can be used as a toner to reduce oil on the
face. It contains natural zinc, which helps to fight acne. Some people choose to dab milk of magnesia
directly on pimples and leave on overnight. Others choose to make a facial mask from it, leaving it on for
10 minutes and rinsing off with lukewarm water.
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3.3 Skincare advice
2.3.1 Avoid comedogenic ingredients
Comedogenicproducts block the skin’s pores and cause acne. When choosing skincare products,
check if any of the ‘highly comedogenic’ or ‘moderately comedogenic’ are in the first seven
ingredients on the list of any products you are considering.If you find them there, using that product
could worsen your acne.
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If the ingredients are contained further down the list on the back of the product, it means that only a tiny
amount is included in the product, and it still may be safe for you to use. Some people prefer to source
products that are 100% free from comedogenic ingredients.
Highly comedogenic
Isopropyl isostearate
Isoprorylmyristate
Laureth-4
Myristylmyristate
Oleth-3
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Moderately comedogenic
Acetylated lanolin
Acetylated lanolin alcohol
Butyl stearate
Cetearyl alcohol
Cocoa butter
Coconut butter/oil
D&C red #30
Deycloleate
Glyercyl stearate SE
Isopropyl palmitate
Isostearylisostearate
Isostearylneopentanoate
Laureth-23
Lauric acid
Mink oil
Myristic acid
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Myristyl lactate
Shark liver oil
Soybean oil
Stearic acid: TEA
Stearylheptanoate
Wheat germ glyceride
3.3.2 Scar treatments
Some people will develop scars after they’ve had acne. This is not always connected to the severity of the
acne they suffered from, as people have different responses to inflammation. Some people have a
‘secondary inflammatory response’ to trauma, and they are more likely to get scarring after their acne
has cleared up. Those with a ‘single inflammatory response’ tend not to scar.
To prevent scarring, first try to clear the acne. It is very important that you do not pick at your skin, as
this is the main cause of scarring. Leaving your skin mostly untouched is the best way to prevent getting
scars when your skin clears up.
If, when your acne is cleared, and you find you have scars, you might choose to find treatment to reduce
them. It is important to remember that many scars can not fully heal, but they can be improved. Experts
recommend that you do not take scarring too seriously, as it poses no threat to your health, and is often
seen more severely by the person who has the scarring than by others.
Some scar treatments include:
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Topical creams– In gel, cream or liquid form, you apply them direct to the scar up to three times daily.
Alternatively, silicone gel sheets can be purchased and applied to the scar with pressure.
Microdermabrasion – Carried out at a spa or at the esthetician, it improves skin glow and texture. A
handheld vacuum pump creates friction against the skin with very finely ground crystals at very high
speed, which detaches some of the outermost skin cells.
Cryosurgery – In this type of treatment, cold liquid nitrogen gets applied to the scar for between 10
seconds to 120 seconds. Sometimes steroid injections are also used. The liquid nitrogen freezes the scar
and damages the tissue. After the tissue dies it is sloughed off and the area becomes flat. Side effects can
include blistering and permanent lightening of the skin.
Skin rolling/needling – A needle-studded roller, tattoo gun without ink or a 30-gauge needle is used to
puncture the skin. This induces trauma, which is then healed with collagen remodeling. It can take up to
a year for results to be seen.
Punch techniques – There are three types of punch techniques. Punch elevation cuts a portion of the
scar and levels it to the surrounding skin level. Punch excision removes the scar, then the wound is
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stitched up. Punch grafting removes the scar, then replaces it with skin from another area in the body,
such as from behind the ear.
Steroid injection – Steroids can be injected into raised scars to interrupt the inflammation, thereby
reducing the scar.
Cytotoxic injection – An injection of antibiotics or cancer drugs is made into the scar to improve its
appearance.
3.4 Caveman regimen
The caveman regimen is an unusual skincare plan that has recently gained attention in skincare
online communities in general, but particularly among those talking about acne online. Celebrities
such as Alexa Chung, Lady Gaga and Selma Hayek are said to follow this skincare regime. In this
section we’ll discover the theory behind the regimen, and what it is like to put it into practice.
3.4.1 Theory behind the caveman regimen
The caveman regimen has a few different variations. From the most extreme to the least extreme:
Not washing the face at all. Not letting water touch the face at all. Do not use any products on the face.
Washing the face with only water. Do not use any products on the face.
Washing the face with a gentle cleanser or soap, but very infrequently, such as once a week.
Some adherents of this regimen say that the more extreme the approach, the better the results.
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The theory behind this skin regimen begins by talking about the acid mantle. The acid mantle is a
protective layer of skin that develops when you enter puberty. It’s made of sweat and sebum and it
protects your body from bacteria that could potentially invade your body and harm you. The pH of the
acid mantle is 5.5, which is slightly acidic.
The caveman regimen’s theory puts forward that we consistently strip the acid mantle from our skin by
washing it too often, using harsh chemicals with pH ratings that don’t suit our skin. This is one of the
reasons why the caveman regimen advises against washing the skin with bar soap, as it is alkaline, but
rather washing with a slightly acidic based product, if at all.
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The theory goes on to postulate that as the acid mantle breaks down, the skin is less protected from
irritation and bacteria, and this leads to acne. Some people have even gone as far to say that sometimes
we might create acne, or at the very least severely exacerbate it, through the irritation we cause our skin
with cleansing products and excessive washing.
To counteract this, the caveman regimen advises against washing the face at all, and against using
any products, even natural products, on the skin. The theory states that letting the natural oils and
sweat build up and protect your face will eventually make your acne decrease or go away altogether.
This is letting the skin heal itself without interfering in any way.
3.4.2 The caveman regimen in practice
The reason it is recommended that you don’t let water touch your face at all is because it can cause
irritation. In most places in the world, there are chemicals in the tap water, such as chlorine and fluoride,
which can harm the skin. In addition, water itself is quite drying. Washing with water on its own will dry
the skin, meaning that the skin will need moisturizer. As no forms of skin product are recommended
during the caveman regimen, it is better for the skin not to come into contact with water at all.
When you begin the caveman regimen, there will be a noticeable difference to the skin. For the first few
days, your face is likely to become very dry, very oily, or a mixture of both. Blemishes and zits may look
worse than they usually do, and you might suffer from breakouts. During this stage, it is especially
important that water is not used. Most acne sufferers wash their face twice a day and use a number of
products to try to heal their skin. As we stop doing so, the skin needs time to adjust. One of the first
things it will do is build up a dead skin layer, also known as a ‘dead skin mask’. This is not very
noticeable, but may be dry, flaky and itchy at first. Though this may give your skin a slightly rough
appearance, it remains to protect your skin as it heals, and it regulates sebum production.
Part of the theory behind this is that your skin renews itself every 28 days. Four weeks after beginning
the caveman regimen, your skin is likely to have improved significantly. At this point, some people
choose to wash their face with a gentle cleanser to remove the dead skin layer, but others maintain it is
more effective to let your skin shed naturally. By this point, your skin is better able to regulate itself and
produce the correct amount of sebum you need without creating acne. Inflammation in the skin will
decrease. Any spots or blemishes you have will be smaller and will go away more quickly.
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Some people are reserved about trying this regime for many reasons. One is that people may find it
unhygienic, and worry that without cleaning their face more bacteria and dirt will find its way into their
pores, causing acne. The theory behind the caveman regimen refutes this, though.
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Other reasons include that women might want to wear makeup, and the caveman regimen is not
compatible with skin makeup (though eye makeup is fine). Men would have to use a beard trimmer on
the closest setting, rather than shaving as usual. The hair has to be washed very carefully to make sure
water does not touch the face. Though a couple of splashes does not matter much, you will want to avoid
anything more than that.
The caveman regimen is best alongside a healthy diet and exercise. Though irritation from the outside is
not always the cause of acne, it is often one of the factors keeping it going. That said, all other causes of
acne should also be explored, such as diet, lifestyle, stress levels etc.
During the caveman regimen, it is advisable to focus on your skin as little as possible. If necessary,
avoid mirrors. Not focusing on the acne helps to lower your stress levels and stay on track. Many
people find it difficult to ‘do nothing’ for their acne, especially if they’ve been used to trying many
different remedies and strategies, but great reviews have been posted on acne.org, where this
method is rated 4/5, and 63% of people have rated it 5/5.