Download pdf - Sampling, Pattern Making and Marker Making

7/31/2019 Sampling, Pattern Making and Marker Making

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SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING

DEPARTMENT

ACTIVITIES :

This department is basically responsible for developing the patterns and

various samples, which may vary from buyer to buyer.

It is the most important aspect of business. Hence, utmost care must be

taken to do an excellent job in sampling.

It is the department to develop the pattern for the style based on the

measurements and style details given in the spec sheet provided by the

buyer.

Shrinkage and shade test is done in the testing laboratory .The pattern is then

altered according to the shrinkage of the fabric.

Patterns are developed through CAD by the pattern master, and this plays

an important role in determining the orders.

All the samples made by the department are approved by the merchandizer

or the buyer.

Samples, must be made in time and quality standards must be abided by

while due care should be taken to keep commercial angle in mind. GSM/

colors/ prints/ labeling etc should be as specified and specific of the

instructions received from the buyer in development of new samples.

Comments are given in by the buyer to the merchandiser,and sampling

department will make the necessary changes accordingly,to meet the buyers

requirements and obtain approval.

This department has its own SNLS, DNLS, fusing, flat lock, over lock

machines

Each operator is responsible of making a whole sample garment by

themselves.


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FLOW PROCESS :

RECQUISITION SHEET(Tech pack,trimdetails,wash fabric

details,fabric shrinkage)

UNCONFIRMEDORDERS

CONFIRMED

ORDERS

MAKE PATTERNCOSTING

CONSUMPTION +

MINIMARKER

DEVELOPED

APPROXIMATE

SHRINKAGE

ADDED ONPATTERN

CPT OF SAMPLE

YARDAGE,TEST

SHRINKAGE 50x

PROTO/FIT QC CHECK

DEVELOPMENT

SAMPLES / WASH

SAMPLES

A


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A

SALESMANSAMPLE (SMS) /

PHOTOSHOOT

BULK FABRIC

SHRINKAGE

REPORT FROMTESTING LAB

PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE QC CHECK

SIZE SET QC CHECK

SUBMIT FOR

BUYER APPROVAL

PATTERN CHECK

START BULK


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After QC check if passes will be submitted to buyer for approval, and if failed

sample will be remade.

For making every sample,arecquisition sheet is received and trim details and

fabric swatch .For size set a trim card is received from the concerned

merchant.

DETAILS OF SAMPLES :

Development sample:Samples developed for a particular buyer based on his

sample order sheet are treated as Development Samples. Generally most

of the specifications are provided by the buyer but can also be given by the

design department of the company for their in house designs.

Proto/ Counter sample:This is developed according to the indications sent by

the buyer. This may not be in the actual raw material and is just an

interpretation of ideas. This is a sample made by the manufacturer that

reflects the styling features, fabric, trims and construction details. A Counter

Sample may have resulted from a request made by Chicos or may have

originated from the vendors own product line or collection.

Fit sample: This sample is an actual representation of the measurements

provided by the buyer to check the fit of the garment as the name suggests.

Photo sample: This garment, which is sent to mail order and catalogue

houses, is made in actual raw materials with the correct specifications. The

buyer takes its photograph to enable the customer to get an idea about the

merchandise.

Size set: In the size set, the garments are stitched in each size. In this sample

the measurement, color, combination, style, quality and finishing should be

perfect as specified in the spec sheet. The size set samples will be stitched

only after the confirmation of the order. It is done before the bulk production.

Pre production sample: The PP sample is made for all sizes with actual

fabrics and trims. This is mainly for the purpose of end products production


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study. After final approval and receiving production order, all thepatterns,

reference garments and files containing specification sheet is sent to the

Production Department. a sample made by the manufacturer for a specific

order that reflects the style ordered. The garment must be made with

approved bulk fabric (correct color, print and hand feel) and approved bulk

trims (correct quality, size, color and correct placement/size/quality of

embellishments). The sample submitted must be suitable to fit on a live

model, therefore all measurements must be within tolerance and match

construction. Vendors suggestion for improved construction/quality/specs

should be noted on the PP ID tag.

PP TAG

DOCUMENTS USED/RECORDS MAINTAINED :

Internal PO

Spec Sheet

Production File


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MARKER MAKING:

Marker making is the process of developing the diagram consisting of all garment

components in their required cut quantity and the required sizes which is then

superposed on the top of a fabric lay (superposed fabric plies) as a guide for cutting

these plies of fabric into the required component parts of the final garment. Marker

Planning is done to utilize the minimum fabric while cutting the desired number of

pieces from the lays. It can be done manually as well as through CAD. The job of the

pattern master in case of CAD marking is reduced as he does not have to check

whether all the pattern parts are placed and whether all the notches are properly

marked. CAD marking is usually more efficient than manual marking, except for

some cases like check fabric, and for fabrics having complicated designs.

The marker planning done here is mainly through CAD, manual marking is carried

out for fabrics with checks, stripes those that are used for waistband interlining,

pocket bags. The plotted markers developed through CAD are placed on the lay to

enable the cutting of the garment parts. In case of manual marking the pattern

pieces are developed through CAD, plotted on a sheet, and the sheet is cut into

individual cut components which are then placed on the top ply of the fabric lay to

make a marker, through trial and error methods for optimum marker efficiency and

maximum fabric utilization with less waste. The cutting master determines the lay

width and the lay length depending on the order quantity, styling of the garment and

the amount of the fabric.


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GERBERS ACCUMARK CAD SOFTWARE

It is the apparel industry's leading pattern design, grading and marker making

software.AccuMark enables designers to apply their distinctive talents, individual

techniques and creativity in a computer-aided environment that offers all the flexibility of

manual pattern making.

Features of the software:

Accelerate pattern design.

New functionality to easily create and edit darts

All measurements update with pattern changes

Improved annotation capability

Multiple asymmetrical folds

Grade pleats and merge pieces more easily

More choices for turn back hems

Modify grading on multiple points and pieces simultaneously

Easy Planning

Facilitates creation of simple cut plans

Open models directly from AccuMark Explorer

Plans the markers and generates orders automatically for maximum material

utilization

Calculates model combinations based on the sizes, quantities and fabric type

in each marker Submit orders to Batch to automate process

Helpful to quickly calculate fabric usage


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Easy Order

Create orders and process markers quickly and easily

Experienced users can define order templates and select lay limit options for

each piece

Easy Marking

Import fabric prints at actual scale, define repeats and use this information to

match pattern pieces visually

Enter fabric weight to calculate material costs more accurately, particularly

with knit fabrics

User configurable work area, including colors, hot keys and tool bars.

Accelerate nesting.

AccuMark helps us to generate the most efficient nests to optimize material

utilization and reduce material costs.

Accelerate the digitizing process by typing pattern piece data into a simple

form in the AccuMark system rather than entering character by character at

the digitizer


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GERBER PLOTTER and DIGITIZER:

It is a high speed plotting system to plot and cut patterns. It includes solution to

quickly transform hard patterns into digital format for use in CAD systems.

The GERBER plotter offers state-of-the-art inkjet technology. It boasts high

productivity and performance at a low cost of ownership.

The GERBER plotter is also available in a 2.2-meter-wide configuration.

Features:

Fast, quality plotting.The GERBER plotter plots at speeds up to 95-square-meters per hour at 300

dpi print resolution with an accuracy of +/- 0.1%.

Low maintenance

Gerber plotter uses proven HP inkjet technology and standard, off-the-shelf

HP inkjet cartridges. The system remotely monitors ink and paper usage and

issues an alert when it detects low ink or paper levels.

Versatile

The system plots on a variety of materials including recycled paper, bond,

Kraft paper and Mylar. Choose to plot face-out or face-in, with or without

taking paper up onto a roll.