What’s New in Peptide Technologies
PRESENTED BY SOPHIE ASHWORTH DipNurs., Cert IV BTh., Cert.DermTh (AACDS)
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Introduction to peptides • Peptides encapsulate a vast array
of new active ingredients
• Tens of millions available
• Advances in:
• Science
• Technology
• Laboratory techniques
Protein
Peptide
Peptides: the ‘pearl necklace’ analogy
• Explaining peptides to clients
• Amino acids are the building blocks of protein
• 1 amino acid = 1 pearl
• Peptide = a few pearls
• Protein = the entire pearl necklace
Peptide
The ‘peptide library’ approach to laboratory peptides
E.g. create a 6aa peptide (using 21 natural aa’s from library)
Brief: to stimulate Collagen type IV
• 64 million combinations of peptides tested
• Only one chosen as active cosmeceutical
Peptide facts and myths FACTS
• Peptides: buzz word = consumer confusion
• Penetration: To reach target cell, peptide < 1000 Daltons weight (approx. 15 amino acids in length). This equates to a few pearls of the necklace
MYTHS
• The addition of collagen to skincare products
• Collagen (including collagen extracts) in skincare has a molecular weight of 15,000 to 50,000 Daltons
Growth factor controversy Topical growth factors: impact on skin • Growth factors do not distinguish between viable and
malignant cells • Using topical growth factors found in cosmeceutical
products is highly controversial* • Phycosaccharide alternative: stimulates the skin’s
own growth factors from within: highly specific and safe in their action
* Scientific American : ‘In the Flesh: The Embedded Dangers of Untested Stem Cell Cosmetics: Unapproved procedures and skin care products endanger consumers and clinical research’ Dec 17, 2012
Current peptides categories 1. Signal Peptides
2. Neuropeptides
3. Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides 4. Carrier Peptides
Collagen Cycle Control Tripeptide-10, tripeptide-1 → Stimulation, protection and regulation
Triple action peptide: acts on all stages of the collagen life-cycle
1. Stimulating the synthesis of collagen I, II and IV
2. Controlling dimensions of fibers
3. Inhibiting enzymatic degradation
Melanocyte control: Oligopeptide-34
In vivo efficacy study
Aged pigment and lesion was significantly decreased after 8 weeks
Multifunctional 3 way activity
Melanosome transfer inhibitor
No toxicity
versus HQ
Tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor
Acetyl tetrapeptide-33: In vivo efficacy ROSACEA AND GENERALISED REDNESS IMPROVEMENT 20 volunteers with mild rosacea applied 2% Acetyl tetrapeptide-33 solution x2 daily for 28 days
DAY 0 DAY 28
Infraorbital oedema: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5
• Reduces puffiness and dark circles
• Decongesting effect
• Fights against oedema due to poor lymphatic circulation
• Reduces capillary permeability
• Inhibits glycation
• Increases skin elasticity (+33% in one month)
Acetyl tetrapeptide-5: In vivo efficacy
1. Significant decrease in only 14 days
2. Eye bags reduced in 70% of the volunteers after 28 days
3. Skin elasticity had a 30% increase after 30 days
4. Double action: reduction of puffy eye bags and dark circles
5. Improvement of skin elasticity
Peptides and genome protection Juve-11 ™ aka Juvefoxo / Acetyl Hexapeptide 51
Hydra genus ‘the immortal jellyfish’
• Able to mimic activity of FOXO3a in human skin
• DNA protected • Prevent cell senescence • Delay the visible signs of ageing
55 YO fibroblasts untreated
55 YO fibroblasts treated with Juvefoxo™ 24hr incubation
Acetyl Hexapeptide 51 In vitro efficacy: senescence reverted
Test protocol: 55 year old woman • HDF activity with ß-gal positive marker • Fibroblasts recovered with 64.5% ↓ ß-gal activity → structure and function of cells 10 years younger in cell morphology
In vivo results ᵝ-Gal activity
67 yo HDFa 37 yo HDFa 55 yo HDFa 55 yo HDFa +Juvefoxo™ (0.01 mg/mL)
ᵝ-ga
l pos
itive
HDF
a (%
)
64.5% redn
A combined approach
The Three C’s to optimum results
1. Cosmeceuticals
2. Compliance
3. Combination therapies: IPL, Laser, LED, PDT, CIT, Cosmetic injectables
Future of cosmetic science Peptides play a significant role in the future of cosmetic science
The implications for the future of formulating chemistry with the wide variety of peptides possible from utilising the peptide library approach
Thank you!
PRESENTED BY SOPHIE ASHWORTH DipNurs., Voc.Grad.Cert.DermTh (AACDS), Cert IV BTh.