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Think differentlyThink differentlyThink new Think new

opportunitiesopportunities

By ann noonanBy ann noonan

KEY DIGITAL KEY DIGITAL PRINTING OPPORTUNITIES PRINTING OPPORTUNITIES Concepts->design Concepts->design Sample proofing Sample proofing

ProductionProduction

DESIGN STUDIOSDESIGN STUDIOS

• DIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTH:DIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTH:• Makes it easier for stylists and designers to develop

ideas together.• DIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTHDIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTH• is a significant way for stylists to show and get

commitment from their Merchandising Clients.• DIGITALLY PRINTED MADE UP PRODUCTSDIGITALLY PRINTED MADE UP PRODUCTS• helps to gain market feedback.

• RESULTING IN RESULTING IN • MORE PAID SERVICESMORE PAID SERVICES

SAMPLE PROOFING - SAMPLE PROOFING - PROFILE CALIBRATIONS PROFILE CALIBRATIONS

• Existing mills use digitally printed samples to save costs. Traditional sample minimum 40,00 € Digital sample minimum 2,00 €• Two areas to calibrate.

• digitally printed sample and production results should be within a similar tolerance

compared to tradional sampling

DIGITAL PRODUCTION DIGITAL PRODUCTION

• ORDERS QUEUED FOR EFFICIENCY

& CONTINUOUS PRODUCTION. • FLAG INDUSTRY LEADS THE WAY.• SERVICE BUREAUS PER COUNTRY

DOING SHORT RUN TEXTILE PRODUCTION AND PRODUCTS COVERING FASHION, ACCESSORIES,

T-SHIRTS, PROMOTION PRODUCTS, CUSHIONS, BLINDS.....

FOCUS HARDWAREFOCUS HARDWARE

INDEX HARDWAREINDEX HARDWARE• MACHINERY clockwise from top left as displayed on former slide:• Robustelli• Mutoh Viper• Roland SJ 740 with integrated textile winders• Reggiani ‘DREAM MACHINE’™• Integrated Mimaki Printer• Note:- Other new printers entering the market

from Konica Minolta, Aiona at higher price – higher speed than Mutoh, Roland and Mimaki.

DDYYEESS - - PPIIGGMMEENNTTSS

• Depends if ‘open’ or ‘closed’ printer configuration as to whether you can choose your suppliers of dyes & pigments.

• Acid Dyes – silk, wool, polyamide• Reactive Dyes – silk, wool, cotton, linen, viscose• Disperse Dyes – polyester, polyamide• Sublimation Dyes – transfer paper for printing

on to polyester cloths usually• Pigments – untreated and treated cloths • Pretreatments and finishing per type of dye

and fibre.

RIP SOFTWARERIP SOFTWARE• Import & Transformation of design:• Standards EPS, PS, PDF, TIFF, JPG... • Colour Environments C,Y,M,K; R,G,B; L,A,B• Transformation of ICC tags• Accurate profiles • Repeat, reflect functionality• Re-order functionality• White & black points• ICC Profile to put back into Graphic Station is a nice solution to preview how it will print.• Many digitally printed designs never separated.

PROFILESPROFILES

• COLOUR IS THE MASTER NOT THE ‘RECIPE’ TO REPRODUCE COLOURS

ACCURATELY OVER DIFFERENT SUBSTRATES,• : WITH DIFFERENT PRINTERS,• : WITH DIFFERENT DYES.• ACCURATE PROFILES GIVE EFFICIENT

WORKFLOW.• ACCURATE PROFILES NEED TO BE MADE

WITH PROFILERS BASED ON PROVEN COLOUR MODELS.

COLOURCOLOUR THEORYTHEORY

Colour Space is not easy to model. There are inherent errors.

We do not always agree that the colours we are looking at, are the same!

Mathematical models were developed to calculate closer results to how humans view colours.

SPLITTING OF WHITE SPLITTING OF WHITE

LIGHT LIGHT

COLOURCOLOUROUR WORLD IS OUR WORLD IS

BOMBARDED WITH LIGHT BOMBARDED WITH LIGHT

• What we see! What we do not see!

MUNSELLMUNSELL™™

• THE HUMAN CHOICE

• – published 1905

Human emperical

choice.

Difficult to mathematically

reproduce the

colours.

CIE 1931CIE 1931

• CIELAB 1931

• DIAGRAM

X,Y,Z, are the tri-stimulus points of a colour, which represents the way our eyes see colour using the three types of cones in our eyes

OUR EYES SEE MORE OUR EYES SEE MORE THAN WE CAN PRINT THAN WE CAN PRINT

ADDITIVE MIXINGADDITIVE MIXING

SUBTRACTIVE MIXINGSUBTRACTIVE MIXING

CIE LAB 1976CIE LAB 1976

COLOUR ATTRIBUTESCOLOUR ATTRIBUTES

• Colour defined into three elements – Hue– Chroma– Lightness

LightnessLightness

CHROMACHROMA

• The term

• SATURATION

• is often used

• instead of chroma

Brightness

HUEHUE

TOLERANCE METHOD TO MORE TOLERANCE METHOD TO MORE

CLOSELY MATCH OUR EYES CLOSELY MATCH OUR EYES

• Colour reproducibility is more accurately measured by using the Delta E CMC specification

CMC tolerance System developed by the Colour Measurement Committee of the society of Dyers and

Colorists in Great Britain.

Published in 1988.

DIAGRAM SHOWING DIAGRAM SHOWING TOLERANCE SYSTEM TOLERANCE SYSTEM

• The yellow is

more spread out.

. Note the difference

in step size

Different lighting Conditions

PRINTER INK PRINTER INK SET-UP VARIABLES SET-UP VARIABLES

TO MAKE A PROFILETO MAKE A PROFILE

Colour book and Colour book and Printed designPrinted design

OPTIMISATION OF THE DESIGN OPTIMISATION OF THE DESIGN TO CUSTOMER PROCESSTO CUSTOMER PROCESS

• ARTISTIC CONCEPT • STYLING• TRENDS OF THE SEASON• PRICE POINTS• EVERYTHING IS FUNNELED THROUGH A

TIGHT NETWORK OF EXPECTATIONS.• Digital Printing streamlines this confirmation • & order process.

Cost JustficationsCost Justfications

• One design -> many ideas • Ideas developed at an hourly rate. Time is costed.• Colorways directly chosen by customer in studio or

for an additional fee by someone from the studio.• Cost to print per metre sample +/- 2,00 € + set-up

cost.• Price to customer per metre 12€ –> 50 € + set-up

fee which is between 50,00 € -> 80,00 €.• Converters show many variations or modifications

to their clients. • The designers gain less money for their designs but

they generate other income streams.

Summary – Where the Summary – Where the DESIGNER Fits into this DESIGNER Fits into this

digital printing scenario.digital printing scenario.• The European industry concentrates on MARKETING &

DESIGN while MASS PRODUCTION occurs in Asia, Turkey, Eastern Europe, Latin America, & some parts of the African Continent.

• Digitally printed samples gain commitments to orders for ideas and collections, prior to investing in manufacturing.

• Currently there are opportunities for designers to create new incomes. DIGITAL PRINTING is a key to help create multiple paid for services.

• You may need to NEGOTIATE STRONGLY to get a reasonable hourly fee for your work.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

• Societe de l’Eclairage – CIE committee• Society of Dyers & Colorists Great Britain• International Colour Consortium • Epp.Teicher.gr• Coldwater Creek Retailer Outlet• Longina Phillips Studio • Mimikry- Dittus & Ehrath Digital Printing• Gretag Macbeth – Munsell ™• X-RITE Inc.