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Global Manufacturing & The Garment Industry Fraying at The Edges

The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

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Page 1: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Global Manufacturing & The Garment Industry

Fraying at The Edges

Page 2: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Overview

- Intro/Thesis- History - Economics- Political/Legal- Ethics/Culture- Critical Thinking

Demystification

Page 3: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

When you pull on a sweater or a shirt, you are tugging at a thousand or possibly a million threads and seams, all working together to cover you. Different colors from different places from different ideals. But if you look closely those same threads could fray apart if not taken care of or watched out for.

Introduction

Page 4: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Thesis

Unless a broad understanding of global manufacturing, from its economic, political, legal, and cultural environments, is thought of in a holistic and human way, the troubled parts of the condition, the child slavery, the horrendous work conditions, and rampant waste will slowly fray the whole, like a falling thread off a tattered sweater.

Page 5: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

History - Pre-Industrial

- Majority of Garment Production is Local

- Only Global Market Was SpecialtyCentered in IndiaSilk & Cotton Luxuries

- North American & European ProductionWoolen Items Standard

- Global Trade Small & Barter Common

Page 6: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

History - Industrial Revolution

- Mass Production Process InitiatedRaw Materials Shipped From Far Corners of Globe (India, Africa, etc.) to England for Finishing

- Regulations First Implemented

- Finished Products Consumed Locally and Shipped Globally

Page 7: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

History - Present Day

Past is PresentWest pays the East to Grow and Finish Clothing

Past is PresentDesigned to Further Enrich the West because the Work is Given to the East because it is Cheaper

Page 8: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Economics - Overview$0 $125 $250 $375 $500

Apparel

Personal Care

Jewelry

Footwear

Global Revenue (Millions)

Imports

0

18

35

53

70

Cambodia El Salvador Bangledesh Sri Lanka Mauratis Lesoto Dominican Republic Honduras

Clothing Exports as a Percentage Share of Economy's Total Merchandise Exports

Exports

Page 9: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Economics - Trends

- Outsourcing AnewDomestic/Overseas Hybrids and Onsite Quality Assurance & Design

- Consolidation of CompaniesManufacturers Restructuring to Cut Losses

- Working ConditionsSweatshop Codes Getting Better But Labor Abuse Hard to Police

- Semi-Automated EquipmentHand Work Finally Being Replaced

Page 10: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Economics - Business Outlook

- Foreign Product Drives Economics Cheaper Labor Means Big Business

- Large Retailers DominantLarger Portion of Retail Means Smaller Manufacturers Out of Businesses

- Profit Margins LowBrand Name Only Thing That Secures Higher Profits

- Trade Regulation Has EffectsQuotas and Tariffs Play Large Role

Page 12: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Political/Legal - US Worker Standards

Bureau of Fire Prevention (City / State Level)

- Required fire alarms, hoses, stairwells, sprinklers- Determined Maximum Occupancy- Outlawed Smoking in Factories- Conducts Building Inspection- Passed Bills on worker injury, child labor, break periods, etc.

Page 13: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Political/Legal - US Worker Standards

American Society of Safety Engineers (Country Level)

- Created months after Triangle Fire (1911)- Oldest professional safety society- Secretariat for American National Standards Institute - Safety Requirements for Construction- Health and Safety for Ventilation Systems- Occupational Health and Safety Systems

Page 14: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Political/Legal - International Labor Organization

- Founded in 1919 as an UN agency- Annual International Labour Conference- Compiles labor statistics for over 200 countries- Notable adopted conventions:

Right to Organize Convention – 1948Equal Remuneration Convention (Equal Pay) – 1951Minimum Age Convention – 1973Labour Inspection Convention - 1947Occupational Safety & Health Convention - 1981

Page 15: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Political/Legal - Spotlight: China

“Accident Prone” article – June 2013- 120 deaths, 70 injured in workforce of 300- Two of three exits locked to prevent excess breaks- Management / President of China play the blame game- Protesters gather the next morning outside building

Page 16: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Political/Legal - Spotlight: China

“Accident Prone” article – June 2013- 120 deaths, 70 injured in workforce of 300- Two of three exits locked to prevent excess breaks- Management / President of China play the blame game- Protesters gather the next morning outside building

“End of Cheap Labor” article – June 2013- Fast Rising wages, worker activism, labor shortages- Growth in working age population sharply declining

Page 17: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing
Page 18: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Ethics - Overview

Commerce Commonality

Culture

Page 19: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Ethics - Commerce

- Jobs vs. Slavery, Economy vs. Squalor

Sweat Shops Still Making Your Clothes

- Tangled Web of GarmentsGarment Manufacturing Large Part of Country Economies

- Clothing ChoicesFast Fashion Makes Fast Waste

Page 20: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Ethics - Commonality

- Fair Trade on the RisePaying Higher Price for Higher Values

- Labor Practices Becoming Paramount

Garment Manufacturing Large Part of Country Economies

- Positive ThreadsHigher Standards could Mean Better Treatment

Page 21: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Ethics - Culture

- Cultural TrimmingsUsing Ethnicities to Drive Fashion

- Consumption CultureGarment Manufacturing Large Part of Country Economies

- Clash of CivilizationsManufacturing Fills World with Westernized Fashion

Page 23: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Critical Thinking - Demystification

Page 24: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Critical Thinking - Demystification

Page 25: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Critical Thinking - Demystification

Page 26: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

Conclusion- History Tells Us of Markets and Exchange:

How Different is It?

- Garment Manufacturing Has to Make Cents But Make Sense

- We Must Look to Make Garment Manufacturing Safe, Honest, and Fair for Everyone Involved

- Ethical Conduct Must Be Explored Holistically, from Different Countries to Different Ideals

Mending the Frays Together

Page 27: The Ethics of Global Manufacturing

ReferencesAmerican Society of Safety Engineers (2013). About American Society of Safety Engineers. from http://www.asse.org/about/

Apparel manufacturing. (2013). Retrieved from http://subscriber.hoovers.com.ezproxy.lib.uh.edu/H/industry360/overview.html?industryId=1161

Blumgart, J. (2013, Mar 21). Sweatshops still make your clothes Salon, Retrieved from http://www.salon.com/2013/03/21/sweatshops_still_make_your_clothes/

Bureau of Labor Statistics (June 7th, 2013). Manufacturing in China. from http://www.bls.gov/fls/china.htm

Bureau of Labor Statistics (December 19th, 2012). International Comparisons of Hourly Compensation Costs in Manufacturing, 2011. Retrieved from http://www.bls.gov/news.release/pdf/ichcc.pdf

Chau, L. (2012, Sep 21). The wasteful culture of forever 21, h&m, and 'fast fashion'. US News and World Report, Retrieved from http://www.usnews.com/opinion/blogs/economic-intelligence/2012/09/21/the-wasteful-culture-of-forever-21-hm-and-fast-fashion

City of Port Jervis New York (2009). Port Jervis Bureau of Fire Prevention. Retrieved from http://www.portjervisny.org/index.asp?Type=B_BASIC&SEC={98DEBA1E-E11B-4004-BBAD-8B71893B39B0}

Cross, S. (2013). Clothing industry moral & ethical aspects. Houston Chronicle, Retrieved from http://smallbusiness.chron.com/clothing-industry-moral-ethical-aspects-15220.html

Das, Mitali and N’Diaye, Papa (June 2013). The End of Cheap Labor. from http://www.imf.org/external/pubs/ft/fandd/2013/06/das.htm

Ethical fashion: Is the tragedy in bangladesh a final straw?. (2013, May 2). Retrieved from http://www.npr.org/2013/05/02/180557959/ethical-fashion-is-the-tragedy-in-bangladesh-a-final-straw

Fynn, S. (2013, Sep 9). [Web log message]. Retrieved from http://www.thehumanmarketing.org/how-is-working-in-an-indian-factory/

Gereffi, G., & Memedovic, O. United Nations, (2003).The global apparel value chain: What prospects for upgrading by developing countries. Retrieved from UNIDO website: THE GLOBAL APPAREL VALUE CHAIN: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries

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ReferencesHickman, L. (2004, May 24). Do try this at home where to buy ethical clothing. The Guardian. Retrieved from http://www.theguardian.com/money/2004/oct/07/ethicalmoney.consumerpages

Holland , K. (2013, May 30). How to bring ethics into your closet. CNBC, Retrieved from http://www.cnbc.com/id/100774193

Horiguchi, R. (January 25th, 2013). Fatal Injury Rate at Work by Country. from https://sites.google.com/site/ryoichihoriguchi/home/occupational_fatality_by_county

International Labour Organization (2013). International Labour Organization. from http://www.ilo.org/global/standards/introduction-to-international-labour-standards/lang--en/index.htm

International Labour Organization (2012). International Labour Organization Conventions. from https://www.ilo.org/dyn/normlex/en/f?p=NORMLEXPUB:12100:0::NO::P12100_INSTRUMENT_ID:312226

Judkis, M. (2012, Mar 16). U.n. expert offended by rodarte aboriginal-print fashion. The Washington Post. Retrieved from http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/arts-post/post/un-expert-offended-by-rodarte-aboriginal-print-fashion/2012/03/16/gIQAr0nNGS_blog.html

McNamara, K. The World Bank, The International Bank for Reconstruction and Development. (2008).The global textile and garments industry: The role of information and communication technologies (icts) in exploiting the value chain. Retrieved from The World Bank website: http://www.infodev.org/infodev-files/resource/InfodevDocuments_582.pdf

Products of slavery. (2010, Oct). Retrieved from http://www.productsofslavery.org/

TheMomCat / cross posted from the Stars Hollow Gazette (March 23rd, 2011). The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire: The Aftermath. Retrieved from http://www.docudharma.com/diary/25520/the-triangle-shirtwaist-factory-fire-the-aftermath

The Economist (June 4th, 2013). China’s Workplaces: Accident Prone. from http://www.economist.com/blogs/analects/2013/06/chinas-workplaces

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ReferencesTrebay, G. (2012, Mar 14). An uneasy cultural exchange. The New York Times. Retrieved from http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/15/fashion/an-uneasy-exchange-between-fashion-and-navajo-culture.html?pagewanted=all&_r=1&

Would you pay a higher price for 'ethical' clothing?. (2013, May 1). Retrieved from http://www.npr.org/2013/05/01/180154279/would-you-pay-a-higher-price-for-ethical-clothing

United States Department of Labor (2013). The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire of 1911 – The Aftermath. Retrieved from http://www.dol.gov/shirtwaist/aftermath.htm

United States Department of Labor (March 16th, 2012). American Society of Safety Engineers- OSHA National Alliances. from https://www.osha.gov/dcsp/alliances/asse/asse.html

[Web log message]. (2012, May 25). Retrieved from http://www.good.is/posts/ethical-style-should-you-really-wear-that-ethnic-print