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The Call of the Himalayas: Climbing an 8000m Peak
Debbie MarkhamJohn Martersteck
Himalayan Expedition Planning
Select the Objective Nepal vs. Tibet vs. Pakistan Training Selecting a guide outfit Choosing the level of support Altitude, acclimatization, and
appetite Supplementary O2? Gear considerations Keeping warm
Select your Objective
Our progression: CO 14ers Peru trek & Mt. Pisco BMS, HAMS, Mt. Rainier Mt. Fairweather Ecuador – 5 peaks Denali Cho Oyu
Work your way up, gain skill and confidence, to raise the bar:
Colorado, HAMS, Cascades Mexico, South America Europe Alaska Himalayan 7000m 8000m
Choosing an 8000er
Difficulty vs. your experience and ability Guided vs. Self-Guided Style, level of support Duration (Ama Dablam – 4 wks, Cho Oyu – 6 wks, GII 8 wks) Climbing Season: Apr/May, June/July, Sept/Oct Time off work Budget
airfare, lodging, meals, etc. climbing guide, fees, tips permits, visas additional gear
Tibet vs. Nepal approaches
• Famous trek to BC through Khumbu Valley
• Begin acclimatization during approach• Much more expensive Everest permit• Full Sherpa support readily avail,
English more common, food more western?
• Much more crowded standard route, Everest Base Camp is a zoo (and dirty). Internet access at BC
• Must climb Khumbu Icefall, Hillary Step
• Interesting drive to BC thru western Tibet, time-consuming border crossing. Military presence.
• Drive to Chinese Base Camp at 15k'• Deal with Tibetan Mountain Association;
permits can be declined at any time• Sherpa and Yakpa support; English less
common, Chinese food• Much less crowded standard route.
Chinese must be first to summit. Internet access not universal.
• Technically more difficult, with more “steps”.
Nepal Tibet
Pakistan and the Karakoram Range
Home of K2,Broad Peak, Gasherbrums, Nanga Parbat
Fabulous approach through the Concordia, but longer Different climbing season Safety concerns in Islamabad, Karakoram Highway, but
people in N Pakistan are generally friendly and welcome tourists
Considerations prior to travel
Climbing and Travel Insurance Immunizations (3-6 months in advance) Other Meds
Cipro or similar antibiotic (for GI illness) Diamox? Pepto Bismal, Immodium Cold, Allergies, and Flu pills Antacids, Anti-Reflux Dexamethasone Anti-nausea
Easy to purchase meds in Kathmandu
Training
Longer hikes and climbs up high on the weekends, best with teammates
Mid-week local hikes with loaded pack
Weight training, cardio
Establish a planwith your team4-6 months ahead
Parnassus Peak (13,574′)James Peak (13,294′)Quandary Peak (East Ridge) (14,265′)Pacific Peak (West Ridge) (13,950′)Mt. Silverheels (13,822′)
Training
Early Spring – not able to climb most snow couloirs safely, so we focused on avalanche-safe routes above 13K’
Selecting a Guide company
Accreditation; are guides certified? References
Longevity in Nepal/Tibet or Pakistan How experienced guiding your route? Summit success rate? Cost and what is included, e.g. food,
equipment Attitude, philosophy, communication
Choosing the level of support
Use of Fixed Lines set upby expedition Sherpas
Emergency O2 and support You climb w/o support above ABC
(haul all group gear, food, build tent platforms and erect tents at high camps)
Base Camp only Logistics and Permits Van/Bus and Hotels to Base Camp Truck /Yak support to Advanced Base Camp
(ABC) Tent and Food while in ABC
Full Support Includes Base Camp support plus: Sherpas establish routes and fix
ropes Sherpas haul tents, build tent
platforms, and erect tents Sherpas haul stoves, fuel, and
some food above ABC Climbing Sherpa support (e.g. one
for every two climbers) Guide makes the decisions
Consider the tradeoffs
Altitude, Acclimatization, and Appetite
Long Acclimatization Schedule Chinese Base Camp Interim Camp Advanced Base Camp Touch Camp 1 Sleep at Camp 1 Sleep at Camp 1 then Camp 2 Wait for summit window
Altitude, Acclimatization, and Appetite
Appetite• Imperative for maintaining strength• Diminished at altitude• Expedition food may not be the most appetizing• Supplementary food is essential – bring what you like• Consider putting on a few pounds prior to the climb
Gear Additional sleeping bag (one for ABC and one for Higher
Camps) Extra tents and pickets, bamboo stakes, or ice screws for
anchors (for Base Camp only support) Ropes if you are establishing your own route Stoves and fuel
Figure 8 device for rapping Essential to have lots of reading material, puzzles/games,
cards, music, journal, laptop (if internet access is available) Spare batteries (can charge ipods at ABC)
Keeping Warm Warmest Boots, Overboots Warmest Gloves / Mitts / Balaclava Heavy 8000m parka and snow pants Face mask for warmer, moister breathing Hand and foot warmers Electrically heated insoles (with charger)
Supplemental Oxygen May be what enables you to summit Helps you sleep at high camp Helps to avoid frostbite Facemask is warm; can summit in higher wind
conditions Makes the climb safer and more enjoyable Usually required on Everest It’s not cheating!
BUT It’s expensive It’s heavy (and, too often, trash) If you run out, you may die! More pure style and more
challenging to climb without
Optional gear?
Helmet
Cho Oyu: an easy snow climb?!?
• Most likely not Everest (we like to climb!)• Cascades : Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier• The Year of the Mountaineer: Bolivia• Alaska: Foraker? West Rib? Dreamin’ of the Cassin!
What’s next?