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IntroduceIntroduceSL Name ID Batch01 MD. SAZZAD HOSSAN 12331714 22nd 02 MD. MAHABUB HASSAN 12331391 22nd 03 SALMAN FORAZEE 12331791 22nd 04 MD SHOHOL RANA 12331244 22nd 05 MD TAJUL ISLAM 12331249 22nd 06 ASADUZZAMAN 12331515 22nd 07 MD MAHBUBUR RAHMAN 12331456 22nd

Marker MakingMarker Making Definition:Definition:

precise arrangement of pattern pieces precise arrangement of pattern pieces oror

process of determining the most efficient process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces layout of pattern pieces

Points to be considered before Points to be considered before marker making:marker making:

• • Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2 Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2 inch)inch)

Fabric length must be higher than marker length.Fabric length must be higher than marker length. Length of the cutting table.Length of the cutting table. Production planning.Production planning. When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth, When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth,

the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric. in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.

Marker Marker

Marker Efficiency: Marker Efficiency: The percentage of the total fabric that is The percentage of the total fabric that is

actually used in garment parts. actually used in garment parts.

Area of pattern in the markerArea of pattern in the markerMarker Efficiency = -----------------------------------------X 100%Marker Efficiency = -----------------------------------------X 100% Total area of the marker plan Total area of the marker plan

Factors influencing Marker efficiencyFactors influencing Marker efficiency

• • Marker planner:Marker planner: competency, experience, honesty and competency, experience, honesty and

technical knowledge of the marker planner technical knowledge of the marker planner

• • Size of the garments:Size of the garments: Smaller and larger garment sizes Smaller and larger garment sizes ↓ Marker ↓ Marker

EfficiencyEfficiency

• • Numbers of sizes in a style:Numbers of sizes in a style: FFewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ↓ ↓

Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency

• • Marker length: Marker length: Higher marker length ↑ Marker Efficiency.Higher marker length ↑ Marker Efficiency.•• Pattern Engineering:Pattern Engineering:

Marker efficiency can be increased by Marker efficiency can be increased by changing pattern design of particular parts of changing pattern design of particular parts of the garments. the garments.

•• Fabric characteristics:Fabric characteristics: Usually symmetrical fabric ↑ Marker EfficiencyUsually symmetrical fabric ↑ Marker Efficiency

Asymmetric fabric ↓ Lower marker efficiency. Asymmetric fabric ↓ Lower marker efficiency.

• • Marker making method: Marker making method: We can generally make markers by two We can generally make markers by two

methods . methods . • • Marker width: Marker width:

The more the fabric widthThe more the fabric width

Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making A. Manual method.A. Manual method.In this process, marker can be made in two waysIn this process, marker can be made in two ways

a. a. By using full size pattern:By using full size pattern: -full size pattern pieces on marker -full size pattern pieces on marker paper paper oror-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a -directly on the top ply of the fabric in a

spread spread b. b. By using miniaturized pattern:By using miniaturized pattern:

-full size pattern pieces are -full size pattern pieces are reduced reduced to to 1/5 of its original size 1/5 of its original size by using by using

pantograph pantograph -made by plastic sheet or thick board paper -made by plastic sheet or thick board paper -Marker planning is done by using those -Marker planning is done by using those

miniaturized patterns miniaturized patterns

Features of manual marker makingFeatures of manual marker making

time consuming and require a great deal of time consuming and require a great deal of space space

errors and inconsistencies that may occur in errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation, poor line definition, grain variation, poor line definition, placement and alignment of pieces and slip placement and alignment of pieces and slip of the pieces of the pieces

Accuracy of a manually made marker Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who depends on the skill of the individual who laid out the marker and traced it laid out the marker and traced it

B. B. computerized marker makingcomputerized marker making very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for

pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest response time response time

Production patterns may be developed on the computer or Production patterns may be developed on the computer or digitized or scanned in to the computer digitized or scanned in to the computer

parameters for markers are entered in to the computer parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and from cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and fabric width fabric width

Advantages of computerized methodAdvantages of computerized method Increases in material efficiency with subsequent Increases in material efficiency with subsequent

decreases in material waste, decreases in material waste, Time and labor savings in making markers; Time and labor savings in making markers; Improvements in overall marker quality; Improvements in overall marker quality; Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.

Disadvantages of computerized method:Disadvantages of computerized method: Initial investment is high.Initial investment is high. Skilled operator is requiredSkilled operator is required

Problems of Marker making:Problems of Marker making:a.a. Grain LineGrain Line : Hang and drape of the garment : Hang and drape of the garment

is depending on the matching of grain line. To is depending on the matching of grain line. To maintain grain line is one of the biggest maintain grain line is one of the biggest constraints to achieve higher marker efficiency constraints to achieve higher marker efficiency

b.b. Characteristics of the fabric: Characteristics of the fabric: Special Special attention required to set pattern pieces on the attention required to set pattern pieces on the asymmetrical fabric, such as pile fabric, special asymmetrical fabric, such as pile fabric, special print etc.print etc.

c.c. Design of the garments:Design of the garments: Garments from Garments from check or stripe fabric requires mirror image check or stripe fabric requires mirror image (matching check or stripe in adjacent two parts (matching check or stripe in adjacent two parts of the garment) of the garment)

d. Cutting Quality:d. Cutting Quality: Marker should be Marker should be made carefully so that cutting blade can move made carefully so that cutting blade can move easily in the layeasily in the lay

e. Production Planninge. Production Planning: : production production planning is a constraint of marker making as planning is a constraint of marker making as numbers of pieces of different sizes are not numbers of pieces of different sizes are not exactly proportionate. exactly proportionate.

Fabric wastage outside markerFabric wastage outside marker Ends of ply lossesEnds of ply losses:: For the extensibility of For the extensibility of

the fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2 the fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2 cm allowances is required in each end of the each cm allowances is required in each end of the each ply.ply.

Loss of fabric endsLoss of fabric ends: : during preparation of the during preparation of the fabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabric roll fabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabric roll are separated by cutting. are separated by cutting.

Selvedge lossesSelvedge losses: Each fabric has two selvedges : Each fabric has two selvedges along width. The amount of cut out is considered along width. The amount of cut out is considered 3% (approximately) along width3% (approximately) along width

Purchase loss: Purchase loss: Less fabric may wound on roll Less fabric may wound on roll than identified length than identified length

Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker 1. Marking directly on the fabric1. Marking directly on the fabric

a. a. Drawing by Chalk or pencilDrawing by Chalk or pencil::mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or wax not allow copying least accurate method Not wax not allow copying least accurate method Not applicable method for pile or woolen fabric applicable method for pile or woolen fabric

B. B. Paint Spray:Paint Spray: fine jets of paint are sprayed fine jets of paint are sprayed over the patterns that have been laid on the over the patterns that have been laid on the fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when they are removed they are removed

2. Marking on the paper:2. Marking on the paper: pattern pieces pattern pieces are precisely arranged on to the marker are precisely arranged on to the marker paper and draw the outline of the patterns paper and draw the outline of the patterns by using pencil. This method is widely by using pencil. This method is widely used in the industry. used in the industry.

3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing: – Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on

screen to produce a markerscreen to produce a marker – the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen

and the range of the pattern pieces are shown on topand the range of the pattern pieces are shown on top

3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing:– These pieces can be rotated, reversed and These pieces can be rotated, reversed and

moved into place moved into place – The computer can calculate marker efficiency The computer can calculate marker efficiency – The completed marker is then drawn using a The completed marker is then drawn using a

linked digital plotter. linked digital plotter. 4. Photographic System:4. Photographic System: patterns pieces are patterns pieces are

set onto a light sensitive paper passing set onto a light sensitive paper passing through ultra-violet light and revealed by using through ultra-violet light and revealed by using ammonia vaporammonia vapor

Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

a. Carbon duplicating:a. Carbon duplicating: -Carbon paper in between two marker paper-Carbon paper in between two marker paper

– Suitable to copy 3-4 piecesSuitable to copy 3-4 pieces– This duplication method has fairly low capital and This duplication method has fairly low capital and

material costs material costs b. Spirit duplicatingb. Spirit duplicating:: working procedure is same as working procedure is same as

Office duplicating machine/Xerox machine Office duplicating machine/Xerox machine – Only significant difference is that the size of the machine Only significant difference is that the size of the machine – Suitable for copying 40-50 piecesSuitable for copying 40-50 pieces

c. Photographic method:c. Photographic method: With the With the photographic method, the original marker is set photographic method, the original marker is set onto a light sensitive paper using ultra-violet light onto a light sensitive paper using ultra-violet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor……and revealed by using ammonia vapor……

d. Perforated method: d. Perforated method: obsolete obsolete technique that involves punching a series of technique that involves punching a series of perforation around the marker, placing it on the perforation around the marker, placing it on the fabric and lightly dusting with chalk. It can be fabric and lightly dusting with chalk. It can be used many timesused many times