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7/31/2019 Sampling, Pattern Making and Marker Making
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SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING
DEPARTMENT
ACTIVITIES :
This department is basically responsible for developing the patterns and
various samples, which may vary from buyer to buyer.
It is the most important aspect of business. Hence, utmost care must be
taken to do an excellent job in sampling.
It is the department to develop the pattern for the style based on the
measurements and style details given in the spec sheet provided by the
buyer.
Shrinkage and shade test is done in the testing laboratory .The pattern is then
altered according to the shrinkage of the fabric.
Patterns are developed through CAD by the pattern master, and this plays
an important role in determining the orders.
All the samples made by the department are approved by the merchandizer
or the buyer.
Samples, must be made in time and quality standards must be abided by
while due care should be taken to keep commercial angle in mind. GSM/
colors/ prints/ labeling etc should be as specified and specific of the
instructions received from the buyer in development of new samples.
Comments are given in by the buyer to the merchandiser,and sampling
department will make the necessary changes accordingly,to meet the buyers
requirements and obtain approval.
This department has its own SNLS, DNLS, fusing, flat lock, over lock
machines
Each operator is responsible of making a whole sample garment by
themselves.
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FLOW PROCESS :
RECQUISITION SHEET(Tech pack,trimdetails,wash fabric
details,fabric shrinkage)
UNCONFIRMEDORDERS
CONFIRMED
ORDERS
MAKE PATTERNCOSTING
CONSUMPTION +
MINIMARKER
DEVELOPED
APPROXIMATE
SHRINKAGE
ADDED ONPATTERN
CPT OF SAMPLE
YARDAGE,TEST
SHRINKAGE 50x
PROTO/FIT QC CHECK
DEVELOPMENT
SAMPLES / WASH
SAMPLES
A
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A
SALESMANSAMPLE (SMS) /
PHOTOSHOOT
BULK FABRIC
SHRINKAGE
REPORT FROMTESTING LAB
PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE QC CHECK
SIZE SET QC CHECK
SUBMIT FOR
BUYER APPROVAL
PATTERN CHECK
START BULK
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After QC check if passes will be submitted to buyer for approval, and if failed
sample will be remade.
For making every sample,arecquisition sheet is received and trim details and
fabric swatch .For size set a trim card is received from the concerned
merchant.
DETAILS OF SAMPLES :
Development sample:Samples developed for a particular buyer based on his
sample order sheet are treated as Development Samples. Generally most
of the specifications are provided by the buyer but can also be given by the
design department of the company for their in house designs.
Proto/ Counter sample:This is developed according to the indications sent by
the buyer. This may not be in the actual raw material and is just an
interpretation of ideas. This is a sample made by the manufacturer that
reflects the styling features, fabric, trims and construction details. A Counter
Sample may have resulted from a request made by Chicos or may have
originated from the vendors own product line or collection.
Fit sample: This sample is an actual representation of the measurements
provided by the buyer to check the fit of the garment as the name suggests.
Photo sample: This garment, which is sent to mail order and catalogue
houses, is made in actual raw materials with the correct specifications. The
buyer takes its photograph to enable the customer to get an idea about the
merchandise.
Size set: In the size set, the garments are stitched in each size. In this sample
the measurement, color, combination, style, quality and finishing should be
perfect as specified in the spec sheet. The size set samples will be stitched
only after the confirmation of the order. It is done before the bulk production.
Pre production sample: The PP sample is made for all sizes with actual
fabrics and trims. This is mainly for the purpose of end products production
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study. After final approval and receiving production order, all thepatterns,
reference garments and files containing specification sheet is sent to the
Production Department. a sample made by the manufacturer for a specific
order that reflects the style ordered. The garment must be made with
approved bulk fabric (correct color, print and hand feel) and approved bulk
trims (correct quality, size, color and correct placement/size/quality of
embellishments). The sample submitted must be suitable to fit on a live
model, therefore all measurements must be within tolerance and match
construction. Vendors suggestion for improved construction/quality/specs
should be noted on the PP ID tag.
PP TAG
DOCUMENTS USED/RECORDS MAINTAINED :
Internal PO
Spec Sheet
Production File
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MARKER MAKING:
Marker making is the process of developing the diagram consisting of all garment
components in their required cut quantity and the required sizes which is then
superposed on the top of a fabric lay (superposed fabric plies) as a guide for cutting
these plies of fabric into the required component parts of the final garment. Marker
Planning is done to utilize the minimum fabric while cutting the desired number of
pieces from the lays. It can be done manually as well as through CAD. The job of the
pattern master in case of CAD marking is reduced as he does not have to check
whether all the pattern parts are placed and whether all the notches are properly
marked. CAD marking is usually more efficient than manual marking, except for
some cases like check fabric, and for fabrics having complicated designs.
The marker planning done here is mainly through CAD, manual marking is carried
out for fabrics with checks, stripes those that are used for waistband interlining,
pocket bags. The plotted markers developed through CAD are placed on the lay to
enable the cutting of the garment parts. In case of manual marking the pattern
pieces are developed through CAD, plotted on a sheet, and the sheet is cut into
individual cut components which are then placed on the top ply of the fabric lay to
make a marker, through trial and error methods for optimum marker efficiency and
maximum fabric utilization with less waste. The cutting master determines the lay
width and the lay length depending on the order quantity, styling of the garment and
the amount of the fabric.
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GERBERS ACCUMARK CAD SOFTWARE
It is the apparel industry's leading pattern design, grading and marker making
software.AccuMark enables designers to apply their distinctive talents, individual
techniques and creativity in a computer-aided environment that offers all the flexibility of
manual pattern making.
Features of the software:
Accelerate pattern design.
New functionality to easily create and edit darts
All measurements update with pattern changes
Improved annotation capability
Multiple asymmetrical folds
Grade pleats and merge pieces more easily
More choices for turn back hems
Modify grading on multiple points and pieces simultaneously
Easy Planning
Facilitates creation of simple cut plans
Open models directly from AccuMark Explorer
Plans the markers and generates orders automatically for maximum material
utilization
Calculates model combinations based on the sizes, quantities and fabric type
in each marker Submit orders to Batch to automate process
Helpful to quickly calculate fabric usage
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Easy Order
Create orders and process markers quickly and easily
Experienced users can define order templates and select lay limit options for
each piece
Easy Marking
Import fabric prints at actual scale, define repeats and use this information to
match pattern pieces visually
Enter fabric weight to calculate material costs more accurately, particularly
with knit fabrics
User configurable work area, including colors, hot keys and tool bars.
Accelerate nesting.
AccuMark helps us to generate the most efficient nests to optimize material
utilization and reduce material costs.
Accelerate the digitizing process by typing pattern piece data into a simple
form in the AccuMark system rather than entering character by character at
the digitizer
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GERBER PLOTTER and DIGITIZER:
It is a high speed plotting system to plot and cut patterns. It includes solution to
quickly transform hard patterns into digital format for use in CAD systems.
The GERBER plotter offers state-of-the-art inkjet technology. It boasts high
productivity and performance at a low cost of ownership.
The GERBER plotter is also available in a 2.2-meter-wide configuration.
Features:
Fast, quality plotting.The GERBER plotter plots at speeds up to 95-square-meters per hour at 300
dpi print resolution with an accuracy of +/- 0.1%.
Low maintenance
Gerber plotter uses proven HP inkjet technology and standard, off-the-shelf
HP inkjet cartridges. The system remotely monitors ink and paper usage and
issues an alert when it detects low ink or paper levels.
Versatile
The system plots on a variety of materials including recycled paper, bond,
Kraft paper and Mylar. Choose to plot face-out or face-in, with or without
taking paper up onto a roll.
Recommended