Styling Hair Naturally - Formulation Kilcullen - Stylin… · Hair becomes frizzy owing to hydrogen...

Styling Hair NaturallyRevolymer Personal Care

Rocio Perez, Julie Bacon, Neil Kilcullen2nd September 2016

© Revolymer 2016

Outline

RevCare NE 100S Polyitaconic Acid (NK)

Characteristics of Hair Styling Agents (NK)

Efficacy Studies (RP)High Humidity Curl RetentionCombabilityCurl StiffnessAnti-Frizz

Summary & Conclusions (NK)

2

RevCare NE 100SPolyitaconic Acid

3

© Revolymer 2016

Polyitaconic Acid: Manufacture

Method of Polymerisation (US 7,920,676)Polymers are prepared under selected conditions of partial neutralisationHigh conversion rate

Continuous Production (US 8,420,758)Exothermic heat from the polymerisation reactionEndothermic heat transfer from solvent (water) evaporation

6

0

10

20

30

40

< 80% yield > 95% yield

Better Polymerization Rate and Yield

Pfizer1960

Patent

Rohm & Haas1993

Patent

Itaconix2008

Patent

Numberof Hours

Characteristics of Hair Styling Agents

7

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Characteristics of Hair Styling Agents

FunctionBuild inter-fibre forces to maintain the desired configuration or shape

Consumer ExpectationsStyle held firmly over extended periods of time and exposure toenvironmental conditions

RequirementsUniform applicationClear layerHair appears natural and glossyHair feels natural - not tacky, not too stiffHair easily combed (wet and dry)Product readily removed during washing

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Efficacy Studies

High Humidity Curl Retention

12

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Observations & Conclusions

In a high humidity environment polymer films will absorbwater. Films that are too hygroscopic will over plasticise andfail.

Tresses treated with RevCare NE 100S retain theirconfiguration demonstrating a resistance to overplasticisation and weld failure

RevCare NE 100S outperforms the PVP/VA benchmark and isat least as effective as leading synthetic styling polymers

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Combability

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Comb Resistance: Method

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Tresses are wetted

Product is applied

Tresses air-driedovernight

Force required to combthe tresses is measuredusing a hair combing rigattached to a textureanalyser

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Comb Resistance: Results (First Cycle)

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0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

4000

0 20 40 60 80 100

Forc

e(g

)

Comb Travel Distance (mm)

RevCare NE 100S

PVP/VA

VP/Acrylate Copolymer

VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymerNo treatment

© Revolymer 2016

Comb Resistance: Results (Second Cycle)

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0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

1600

0 20 40 60 80 100

Forc

e(g

)

Comb Travel Distance (mm)

RevCare NE 100S

PVP/VA

VP/Acrylate Copolymer

VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymerNo treatment

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Observations & Conclusions

The force required to comb styled hair depends on how thefibres interact styled hair requires a larger force

The greater the degree of welding (seam welds, number ofspot welds) the larger the combing force

VP/Acrylate copolymer predominantly seam welds firstcycle highest force, second cycle notable reduction inthe combing force

VP/Maleate/Acrylate copolymer welds more flexiblylower force differential between 1st and 2nd cycles

RevCare NE 100S and PVP/VA weld lightly comb force islow and tends towards no treatment

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Curl Stiffness

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Style Flexibility: Results

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020406080

100120140160180200

0 10 20 30 40 50 60

Forc

e(g

)

Probe Travel Distance (mm)

RevCare NE 100S

1st Cycle2nd Cycle3rd Cycle4th Cycle5th Cycle

© Revolymer 2016

Style Flexibility: Results (First Cycle)

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0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

1600

1800

0 20 40 60

Forc

e(g

)

Probe Travel Distance (mm)

RevCare NE 100S

PVP/VA

VP/Acrylate Copolymer

VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymer

© Revolymer 2016

Style Flexibility: Results (Second Cycle)

25

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

0 20 40 60

Forc

e(g

)

Probe Travel Distance (mm)

RevCare NE 100S

PVP/VA

VP/Acrylate Copolymer

VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymer

© Revolymer 2016

Flexibility Ratios

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

RevCare NE 100S PVP/VA VP/Acrylate VA/Maleate/Acrylate Acrylamide/Acrylate

Area

Und

erth

eCu

rve

C2/C

1

26

© Revolymer 2016

Observations & Conclusions

For styled hair, bending the array exerts forces on thepolymer film leading to some weld failure subsequentbending requires less force

The bending force required gives an indication of theinherent softness of the hold

Differences in forces required in consecutive bending cyclesare an indication of the flexibility of the polymer film

RevCare NE 100S delivers a relatively soft hold and has goodflexibility

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Anti-Frizz

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© Revolymer 2016

Frizz Control: Results

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1 hour

2 hours

3 hours

24 hours

PVP/VA

Acrylamide/AcrlyateRevCare NE 100S

VA/Maleate/Acrylate

VP/Acrylate

Control

© Revolymer 2016

Frizz Control: Image Analysis Ratios

0

0.5

1

1.5

2Re

lativ

eAr

eaof

the

Tres

s

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© Revolymer 2016

Observations & Conclusions

Hair becomes frizzy owing to hydrogen bonds betweenadjacent fibres being broken

Styling polymers supplement the degree of inter-fibre bonds

This bonding is diminished gradually as the polymer filmhydrates and plasticises

RevCare NE 100S bonds hair lightly but is resistant toplasticisation helping to prevent frizz

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Summary

www.revolymer.com

© Revolymer 2016 37

Revolymer (U.K.) Ltd

1 Newtech Square

Zone 2, Deeside Industrial Park

Deeside

Flintshire, UK

CH5 2NT

Tel: +44 (0) 1244 283 537 Tel: +44 (0) 1244 283 540

Email: neil.kilcullen@revolymer.com Email: rocio.perez@revolymer.com