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SUBJECT: VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING OF GARMENTS: DEVELOPMENTS AND APPROACHES
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Assoc. Prof. dr. Simona JevšnikUniversity of Maribor, SloveniaFaculty of Mechanical Engineering,Institute for Textile Materials and Design
Inlas d.o.o. intellectual property and consultingsimonajevsnik@gmail.com
Egaleo - Athens, 21. January 2016 Technological Educational Institute (TEI) of PiraeusDepartment of Textile Engineering
University of Maribor
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Slovenia-ID
Capital Ljubljana (the largest city) Ankara (largest city Istanbula)
Area 20,273 km2 783,562 km2 Population 2.000.000 77.500.000 Establishment 25 June 1991 (independent from
Yugaslavia 1.4.2004 (joined to EU
Nationality Slovene
University of Ljubljana (http://www.uni-lj.si)Faculty of natural science and engineerig, Textile departmentUniversity of Maribor (http://www.um.si)Faculty of mechnaical engineering, Institute for textile materials and designUniversity of Primorska (www.upr.si)Faculty of design, Textile department
University of Nova gorica (www.ung.si/)
Universities in Slovenia
Population 300.000
Accurateness of 3D virtual garment prototyping
� Virtual garment prototyping – review� Computer simulation of fabric properties� Computer simulation of fabric drapability
� Applications of garment simulation in virtual environment� Virtual prototyping of sport suit for ski-jumper� Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual
environmental� Development of garment pattern for sport active paraplegic
people using computer tools� Future research direction
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Outline of lecture
Virtual garment prototyping- review4
The world globalization allows that design of clothing and production process take place in different parts of the world.
Requirements of garment industry
• Short time for development of garment • Low development cost • Following to new fashion tendency
The complexity of today’s garment industry has led to unit advanced computer-aided (CAD) technologies and 3D graphic software
The development of garment simulation in a virtual world is going in two areas:
1. ANIMATION OF GARMENT BEHAVIUOR and2. REALISTIC FABRIC SIMULATION OF GARMNET
Virtual garment prototyping- review5
Steps for classical prototyping of garment:
Design
Construction of base pattern
Modeling of pattern
Technological preparation
Technical realization-sewing
First prototype
Try on and adaption
Definition the changing
Garment prototype
Prototyping of garment for individuals :
• Conventional (classical manner)• Virtual
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Steps for virtual prototyping of garment
Virtual garment prototyping- review
The procedure is the same - the steps are different
Defining the changes: Fabric properties,PatternGarment shape
Pilar Jevšnik, 2010
Fabric propertiesPreparation ofGament patternfor simulation
Preparation of Virtual mannequin
Virtual sewing Try on garment evaluationon virtual mannequin
VIRTUAL PROTOTAYPING – the first prototype
Garment prototype
Estimation the fittinggarment on thehuman body
Design
Construction of base pattern
Modeling of pattern
Technological preparation
Technical realization (virtual environment)
Computer software for simulation
Virtual garment prototyping- review
-Browzwear - www.browzwear.com/(VStitcher™, VStyler™ and Viewer™, are recognized as commercial applications on the market for 3D visualization and design of garments and materials)
- OptiTex - http://www.optitex.com/(OptiTex ™ 3D , Pattern Design System (PDS) OptiTex , OptiTex Runway are the applications for 3D visualization and design of garments and materials)
- Lectra (http://www.lectra.com/It covers the fields: Fashion, Foodwear, leather goods, Automotive and Composites and industrial fabrics)(Modaris 3D Fit, - for design and products engineering)
-Assyst (http://www.human-solutions.com/)-Fashion and interiors products
Gerber (http://www.gerbertechnology.com/)
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Virtual garment prototyping- review8
Advantages:
� Eliminate the sewing porcess during the prototyping
� Reduce the materials cost and save time for prototyping
� Independent development of prototypes from human being model
� Quick response time on design changes
Disadvantages:
� Representation of fabric behavior properties
� Proper fitting of garment on virtual models
� Customization of the virtual parametric body model
Advantages and constraints of 3D garment prototyping
Virtual garment prototyping- review9
� Computer simulation of fabric properties� Computer simulation of fabric drapability
Accurateness of 3D virtual garment prototyping
Computer simulation of fabric properties10
Tensile properties
Ep Young’s Modulus in the warp directionEt Young’s Modulus in the weft directionG Shear modulusd Thicknessm Weight / area Q Poisson’s ratioU Density
Material properties
Suppositions for fabric:
HomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loading
Suppositions for fused panelTwo layer laminateHomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loadingUniform density at the connectionspoints with negligible thickness
Shear properties
• ABAQUS program package
• Shell elements• Newton-Raphson method
FabricFused panel
Comparison of shear curve between experimental and numerical simulations of fabric
Comparison between experimentally obtained and numerically calculated values of the shear forces of fused panel
Jevšnik, 2003
Computer simulation of fabric drapeability11
Jevšnik, 2003Fabric:
Specific densityFabric thicknessMaterial parameters
Suppositions:HomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loading
Fused panel:
Specific densityFuased panel thicknessMaterial parametersSuppositions:Two layer laminateHomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loadingUniform density at the connectionspoints with negligible thickness
• ABAQUS program package• Shell elements• Newton-Raphson iterative
method
Edge of pedestal
Pedestal
Sample 240 shell elements
S9R5120
shellelements
CUSICK DRAPE METER
• Drape coefficient• Fold amplitude lenght• Minimum amplitude• Maximum amplitude• Number of folds• Distribution of folds
Drape properties
Drape parameters Cusik drape meter
Drape parameters with FEM
Number of folds 7Max. deflection / mm 59.90Min deflectin /mm 35.71Depth of folds 45.70Maximum amplitude 138.39Minimum amplitude 94.80
Number of folds 6Max. deflection / mm 59.90Min deflectin /mm 35.8Depth of folds 35.53Maximum amplitude 148.34Minimum amplitude 112.80
Applications of garment simulation in virtual environment
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Virtual prototyping of sport suit for Ski-jumper
Virtual prototyping of sport suit13
Ski-jumper suit sketch
Requirements (Fédération Internationale de Ski,FIS ):
• The neck dimension can be maximum 8 cm longer than measured body neck
• The width of the fasteners must not exceed 10 mm
• The maximum deviation of suit can be 6 cm from the any part of body
• The length of the sleeves must be accurate up to wrist of arm.
• Decomposition of all suit parts must be made of materials with the same characteristics.
• Air permeability must be higher that 40 l m-2.s
• Cut-out around shoes cannot be too big.
The jumper wants catch with garment the airduring jump as much as possible
Neck measurement
Cut-out
Virtual prototyping of sport suit14
Real human body
Analysis of ski-jump suit Preparing the human body
3D body scanning
Parametric body
Parametric modelScanned model
3D body scanner Vitus Smart.Cloud point: up to 600.000 points.Body measures: ScanWorx program package.
Skanning problems
Virtual prototyping of sport suit15
Material selection
Five-layer laminated fabric consisting of:• first layer: outer fabric,• second layer: foam,• third layer: elastic membrane,• fourth layer: foam,• fifth layer: lining fabric.
PROPERTIESMEASURED VALUE OptiTex parameters
UNIT COURSE D. WALE D. UNIT COURSE D. WALED.
Extension at load of 98,1 Nm-1 / E 100 % 9.6 10.9 gcm-2 400.641 352.85
8Bending rigidity / B PN�m 44.8 54.5 dyn*cm 4965
Shear rigidity / G Nm-1 199 dyn*cm 1990
Surface thickness / ST mm 0.035 cm 0.0035
Mass per unit area / W gm-2 601 gm-2 601
Virtual prototyping of sport suit16
COMPUTER PATTERN CONSTRUCTION PATTERN MAKING
JUMPSUIT VIRTUAL SIMULATION
MANUFACTORING THE SKI JUMP SUITS
Virtual prototayping of garment17
Ski jump suit manufactured on the base of virtual process of prototyping
Professional ski Jump-suitPrototype
Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental
Applications of garment simulation in virtualenvironment
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Evaluation of the skrit fit to the real, parametric and scanned body models:
1. Definition the evaluation area
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Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental
Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental
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• Middle age women, • Garment size 42,• Jackets• Skirts
� Manufactured by Slovenian company.
� Different natural fibers (cotton, linen) and mixtures (linen/PA).
� Fusing was performed in all models using the same type of adhesive interlinings and Mayer fusing machine.
Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental
Model jacket 1 Model jacket 2 Model jacket 2
Model skirt 1 Model krilo skirt 2 Model krilo skirt 3
Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental
• 40 different body measurement
Scanned model
• Body scanner Vitus Smart
• ATOS for reconstruction the 3D body models
• Graphical programs for reconstruction the scanned body models
• Program MeshLab (tool Poisson)
• Program Blender
• Import into OptiTex PDS 3D Creator
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Preparation the virtual body models
Parametric model
Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental
Definition the seams of garment and position of pattern on the virtual body
z Definition the garment pattern (position, form, layers)z Definition the fabric properties (shell fabric or fused panel)z Definition the auxiliary materials
Definition the garment pattern and fabric properties
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Preparation the garment pattern for 3D simulation
Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental
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The virtual simulation of skirt Real made skirt
Applications of garment simulation in virtualenvironment
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Development of garment pattern for sport active paraplegic people
Development of garment pattern for sport active paraplegic people
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• People with limited body abilities are active in sports and in other social activities.
• Paraplegics have special garments needs, because of physical limitations (body shapes, mobility or movability), therefore it is necessaryperform the special garment constructions.
Wheelchair-racer
Wheelchair tennis playerSport shirt pattern design was performed using a construction system M. Muller & Sohn
Development of garment pattern for sport active paraplegic people
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Wheelchair-racer
Wheelchair tennis player
Scanned Wheelchair-racer
Scanned Wheelchairtennis player
(Stjepanovič; Jevšnik, Rudolf. 2014)
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• To adapt the methodology for evaluation the garment fit
• Detailed determination the properties for separate parts or detail on garment
• To study garment fit during dynamic processes
• Preparation/customization the virtual models (mannequins)
Future research direction
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No. Module Responsible partner
A1 “Advanced Knitting Technologies” Technical University “Gh. Asachi - Romunia
A2 “Virtual prototyping of garments, 3D scanning, clothing for people with special needs”
University Maribor – Slovenia
A3 “New method for testing textile materials” Textile Testing Institute – Czech republic
A4 “Standardization of textile testing” National Research and Development Institute for Textile and Leather (INCDTP) - Coordinator- Romunia
A5 “New sustainable textile technologies, LCA, Eco-labelling”
University Minho – Portugal
A6 “Entrepreneurship” INCDTP - Romunia
A7 “Innovation management” INCDTP - Romunia
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http://www.tekstilec.si/
Tekstilec gives fundamental and applied scientific information in the physical, chemical and engineering sciences related to the textile industry. Its professional and research articles refer to fibres and testing, chemical and mechanical textile technology, technical textiles and their application, as well as to other fields associated with the textile technology and design, textile and clothing industry e.g. development, application and manufacture of natural and man-made fibres, yarns and fabrics, design, marketing, ecology, ergonomics, education in textile sector, cleaning of textiles, etc.
Articles from Tekstilec are indexed in SCOPUS database, at the moment the journal is evaluated by Thonson Reuters data base
Universities in Slovenia
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University of Ljubljana (http://www.uni-lj.si) University of Maribor (http://www.um.si)
University of Primorska (www.upr.si) University of Nova gorica (www.ung.si/)
University of Ljubljana34
University of Ljubljana has accredited :
156 1st cycle study programs, 125 academic and 31 higher professional programs.
The university members also offer long-cycle master study programs, in the fields of EU regulated professions: medicine, dental medicine, pharmacy, architecture).
MEMBERS:
3 Academies
23 Faculties
UNIVERSITY OF LJUBLJANA VISION
By 2020, the University of Ljubljana will be recognized as an internationally open and excellent research university, creatively contributing to the quality of life.
Universitiy of Maribor35
General:
� Beginnings of higher education: 1859 (A.M. Slomšek).
� UNI MB: Established in 1975.
� Current Rector: Prof. Dr. Danijel Rebolj
� Today: Acknowledged university with internationallycomparable faculties and study programmes.
Faculties (13):
� Faculty of Economics and Business
� Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science
� Faculty of Mechanical Engineering
� Faculty of Civil Engineering
� Faculty of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering
� Faculty of Agriculture
� Faculty of Organisational Sciences (Kranj)
� Faculty of Education
� Faculty of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
� Faculty of Law
� Faculty of Medicine
� Faculty of Nursing Studies
� Faculty of Criminal Justice
University of Maribor
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21/01/2016 36
Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Institute of textile material and design
The University library Student hostels
www. usc.uni-mb.si
www.fs.uni-mb.si
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