Processing of knitted fabric

OVERVIEW OF KNITS PROCESSING DEPARTMENT

AND

PROJECT ON WET PROCESSING OF DIFFERENT KNITTED FABRICS

ALOK INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

-NIDHI SINHA

-PRERNA AGRAWAL

-SNIGDHA

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are highly obliged to Mr. V.H. Gopal, President Corporate affairs and Company Secretary, Alok Ind. Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai, for giving us the opportunity to do our internship in Alok Industries.

We are whole heartedly thankful to Mr. S.S. Aich, CEO, Alok Ind. Pvt. Ltd. Vapi, for letting us do our internship in Alok Industries’ Vapi unit.

We would also like to thank to Mr. S. Jagtap, Plant Head, Knits Processing Department, for his continuous support during our project in Knits Processing department.

We extend our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Sukhdarshan Singh, Chief Manager, Knits Processing Department, for his kind guidance and unparallel support during the commencement of our project.

We would like to thank all the employees and workers of Knits department, esp. Mr. Mukesh Patil (SedoMaster, dyeing), Mr. Vinit Kumar Singh (Quality Control), Mr. Sanjay Patel (Greige), Mr. Babban Malik and Mr. Shailendra Sharma (PDC), Ms. Pradnya Khairnar (Reconfirmation Lab, Knits), Mr. Dharmendra Rathore (Finishing) for their kind co-operation and continuous help.

Moreover, we are thankful to Mr. G. Goswami, Plant Head, Printing Department, for allowing us to visit his department and gather information related to printing; and Mr. R. Kadam, Testing Lab, Normal Width, for his help.

Last but not the least; we would like to thank Mr. Maneesh Sharma, for his continuous support, and guidance in our project.

Finally, we thank our college faculty and Course Coordinator, Mr. S.S. Ray for his support during our internship period. This project has become a success by the grace of God and our Parents.

Nidhi Sinha, Prerna Agrawal, Snigdha

NIFT, Kolkata

21st June, ‘11

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CONTENTS

Overview Of Knits Processing Department Introduction Greige Department Dyeing Department Finishing Department

- Mercerization Machine - Corino Machine- Stenter Machine- Compact Machine- Sueding Machine

Folding Department- Quality Assurance- Inspection- Quality Control

Packing Department-Packing Machine

Printing Department- Engraving- Printing- Ageing/ Curing- Washing & Drying

Project On Wet Processing Of Different Knitted Fabrics Lot No. 1 -15

- Process Flow- Greige- Dyeing

(RFD, Dyeing, After Wash off)- Finishing

(Corino, Stenter, Compact)- Folding

(QA, Inspection, Lab Test Report, QC)- Packing & Dispatching

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KNITS PROCESSING DEPARTMENT (OVERVIEW)

The Marketing Department informs the PPC Department about the order given by the buyer, which includes certain specifications like the count, GSM, fabric type, shade, quantity of fabric, fabric form etc. on the basis of which the PPC Department plans the amount of fabric to be knitted at the Silvassa unit, before it comes to the Vapi unit for processing. The fabric hence processed in the Vapi plant is sent back to either Silvassa unit or Mumbai unit for making garments, or dispatched directly to the buyer.

The main focus here is the wet processing of knitted fabrics in Vapi unit, which has the following departments:-

The greige department receives the knitted fabric from Silvassa unit and makes the batches according to the PO quantity. The quantity of fabric issued at greige (for a particular order) is always more than the order quantity in order to meet the consumption of fabric in the series of processes involved.

The fabric rolls that are received on an average weigh approximately 25-35 kg. Various such rolls, as issued by the greige department, are joined (by overlocking) end to end to make a batch of the required quantity. The rolls are thus opened and

the batch is kept in plated form in trolleys for further movement.

The batches are made instead of using the rolls separately, because the minimum quantity of 1 chamber of dyeing machine is 250 kg. So, the quantity to be fed in one chamber should be approx. 250 kg. Moreover, the finishing machines are also continuous, so larger batches give better output.

Apart from batching, another process takes place in the greige department, i.e. changing open width fabric into tubular form. The fabric having GSM above 200; viscose or modal fabric; or single jersey fabrics above 200 GSM which are to be dyed in darker shades are made tubular. The fabric is double folded and the 2 edges along the length are stitched together to change the fabric into tubular.

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INTRODUCTION

GREIGE DEPARTMENT

This process is important because in knitted fabrics, the edges curl, which may lead to undyed edges, or patches. So converting the fabric into tubular form increases the dye pick up by exposing the whole fabric properly without curling thus leading to proper dyeing.

There are 2 Topiwala Rope Opening machines, and 1Hsing Cheng Tubular edge stitching machines for double folding tube making.

The average per day entry in greige department is approx. 25 tons and average per day output is approx. 22 tons.

Dyeing is a critical process for knits. The major factor, that decides whether the particular order will be accepted or rejected, is dyeing of the fabric. Therefore to dye knits, rope dyeing using soft flow machines are preferred to avoid improper dyeing or any unnecessary stretch in

the fabric.

Each soft flow dyeing machine has various chambers of capacity 250 kg each. The number of chambers in the machine decides the capacity of the machine. For example, machine having 3 chambers has the capacity of 750 kg; machine with 4 chambers has 1000 kg capacity etc. The dyeing process in the soft flow machines begins with pre-treatment (i.e. RFD), followed by dyeing and after dyeing treatment (i.e. Auto Wash off).

The batch dosing in the machine is done through the machine window in the rope form with one end tied to a magnetic type piece. The piece rotates and pulls the fabric into the machine. The chemicals enter the machine through an auto dispenser system, the programme of which is set by the Sedomaster.

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DYEING DEPARTMENT

Hsing Cheng Double folding machine

The chemicals used are as follows:-

Serial no. Function Chemical used1 Lubricating agent Primasol JET/ACA, Lanaryl RK2 Peroxide stabilizer Lenetol GLAD3 Wetting agent Lenetol HPLF prm4 Anti- Foaming agent Lenetol FFC5 Sequisting agent Lenapex S, Sirix SAI, 2UDI6 Cleaning agent Caustic flakes7 Bleaching agent Hydrogen per oxide8 Neutralizer Acetic Acid9 Buffer (acidic) Metaxil ATL10 Peroxide killer Metaxil NZPN11 Anti- Creasing agent Depsolube ACA12 Colour Levelling agent Lenetol RDBL13 Dye exhausting agent Vacuum salt14 Dye fixer Soda Ash, Caustic lye15 Alkali Soaping agent Cotoblanc NSR16 Core pHneutralizer Invatex AC, Green Acid17 Dye For cotton:- Amron HF Red HF2BL

Amron HF Yellow HFGR Amron HF NAVY HFBF Amron HF ULTRA RED HR4D Amron HF Blue HFBR Amron HF Amfix Blue R Black Black HR2D Remazol ULTRA YELL RGBN Remazol RGB Ultra Carmine Black Deep Black GWF

For polyester:- Coralene Yellow Brown XF Coralene RUBINE XF2G Coralene Black XF

The above mentioned chemicals are used at different stages of dyeing process; at different concentration for different fabrics and shades; and at different temperatures. The chemicals are dozed, as specified, from the auto dispenser to the side tank and into the machine while the fabric rope rotates on the tied reel in clockwise direction in the machine.

Temperature suitable for: -

Cotton dyeing = 800 C – 850 C Polyester dyeing = 1300 C – 1350 C

The high temperature helps the pores of the fabric to open to absorb the dye properly.

There are 3 major methods for dyeing knits: -

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Isothermal process: - This process is mainly adopted for medium/ dark shades.

600 C

30 min 20 min 45 min

20 / sec 1-soda 2-soda

300 C DRAIN

Approx process time: - 2 hrs 20 min

MLR for isothermal dyeing = 1:07

Soda Salt combination:

%Shade Salt GPL

Salt GM

10GPL 15 GPL 20 GPL 30GPLSoda 7%

Soda 7%

Soda 10.50%

Soda 10.50%

Soda 14%

Soda 14%

Caustic lye2.1%

0.00 – 0.099

8 0.56 5 ML 5 ML

0.10 – 0.249

10 0.7 5 ML 5 ML

0.25 – 0.49

20 1.4 5 ML 5 ML

0.50 – 0.99

30 2.1 5 ML 5 ML

1.00 – 1.80

40 2.8 5 ML 5 ML

1.80 – 2.99

50 3.5 5 ML 5 ML

3.00 – 3.99

60 4.2 5 ML 5 ML

4.00 – 4.99

70 4.9 5 ML 5 ML

5.00 & above

80 5.6 5 ML 5 ML

Only Black

90 5.6 5 ML

Auxiliary: -

Cotton Auxiliary – Levacol RL (1.0 GPL) – 7 GM dilute up to 100 ML – take 1 ML in each pot.

Buffer Auxiliary – VSB (0.3 GPL) – 2 GM dilute up to 100 ML – take 1 ML in each pot.

Fabric Weight – for Light – Medium shades – 10 GM/ for Dark shades – 9.5 GM

Total Liquor – 1:7

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Migration Process: - This process is mainly adopted for critical shades only.

850 C

30 min

20 / sec

650 C

5 min 20 min 45 min

1-soda 2-soda

Drain

300 C

Approx. Process time: - 2 hrs 35 min.

MLR for Migration Dyeing = 1:10

Soda Salt combination: -

%Shade Salt GPL

Salt GM

10GPL 15 GPL 20 GPL 1.5 GPLSoda 7%

Soda 7%

Soda 10.50%

Soda 10.50%

Soda 14%

Soda 14%

Caustic lye2.1%

0.00 – 0.099

8 0.8 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

0.10 – 0.249

10 1 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

0.25 – 0.49

20 2 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

0.50 – 0.99

30 3 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

1.00 – 1.99

40 4 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

2.00 – 2.99

50 5 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

3.00 – 3.99

60 6 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

4.00 – 4.99

70 7 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

5.00 & above

80 8 7.1 ML 7.1 ML 7.1 ML

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Auxiliary: -

Cotton auxiliary – Levacol RL (1.0 GPL) – 7 GM dilute up to 100 ML – take 1.4 ML in each pot.

Buffer Auxiliary – VSB (0.3 GPL) – 2 GM dilute up to 1000 ML – take 1.5 ml in each pot.

Fabric Weight – for Light – Medium shades – 10 GM / for Dark shades – 9.5 GM.

Total liquor = 1:10

Synergy process: - This process, also known as JK process, is invented by the consultant of the Alok, Dr. J. Kumar. In this process, the soda concentration and the salt concentration remain constant. The process has been successful for dark shades, however for lighter shades, it’s still under trial.

The dyes used for dyeing can be of following types: -

Direct Reactive VAT Sulphur Disperse

Out of these only reactive & disperse dyes are used here. The dyeing takes place by ionisation. Both dye as well as fabric has –ve charge. Hence the Na+ ions reduce the ‘-‘range of fabric, thus allowing the dye to penetrate the fabric. The high temperature helps the soda and salt to ionize.

There are 26 dyeing machines of different capacities, which are described as follows:-

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HOT 800 C

0 30

30-40%

100%

80% 70%

SE

PEFIN

WARM 600 C

0 30 60

SN Machines Make Capacity

1 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-50H-1 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 150kgs2 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-50H-2 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 150kgs3 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-110H-1 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 330kgs4 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-110H-1 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 330kgs5 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-250H-1 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 750kgs6 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-250H-2 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 750kgs7 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-500H-1 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 1500kgs8 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-500H-2 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 1500kgs9 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-500H-3 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 1500kgs10 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-500H-4 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 1500kgs11 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-500H-5 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 1500kgs12 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-750H-1 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 2250kgs13 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-750H-2 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 2250kgs14 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-750H-3 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 2250kgs15 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-750H-4 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 2250kgs16 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-750H-5 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 2250kgs17 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-1000H-1 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 3000kgs18 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-1000H-2 SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 3000kgs19 Athena HT Soft Flow dyeing M/c.-1500H SCLAVOS S.A.- Greece Athens 4500kgs20 Fab.Dying M/c.Allfit-30 -1 FONG'S National Eng.co.ltd.,shenzhen 90kgs21 Fab.Dying M/c.Allfit-30 -2 FONG'S National Eng.co.ltd.,shenzhen 90kgs22 Fab.Dying M/c.Allfit-30 -3 FONG'S National Eng.co.ltd.,shenzhen 90kgs23 Fab.Dying M/c.Allfit-1 FONG'S National Eng.co.ltd.,shenzhen 1kg24 Fab.Dying M/c.Allfit-5 FONG'S National Eng.co.ltd.,shenzhen 5kgs25 Fab.Dying M/c.Allfit-10 FONG'S National Eng.co.ltd.,shenzhen 10kgs26 Fab.Dyeing M/c.HSJ-4T FONG'S National Eng.co.ltd.,shenzhen 1000kgs

The purpose of finishing department is to give a finish to the fabric like proper GSM, moisture content, hand feel, look, lustre, softness, stretch etc. or to give special finishes like anti- microbial, anti- odour etc. Even ‘gumming’ and ‘cutting’ of Lycra mix and Viscose fabrics are done while finishing. The fabric is made to pass through different machines, with different chemicals. The department covers the following machines: -

Mercerization Machine Corino Slitting Machine Stenter Machine

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Compactor Machine Sueding Machine

Type of Finish Finishing Chemicals

DWR Finish Asahiguarde 7600, Ceriostar ULD

CHITASON Finish ITO Catalyst SCS NEW, ITOFinish LJSYE NEW, ITOFinish LJM, ITOFinish U 30 NEW

Cool &Comfort with Nanotex

Nenotex H550, Nenotex W110

Silicon based chemical for Peach finish

Sera Wet C- AS, SeraQuest CADC, SeraQuest MPP

Sera based Chemical used for Bulk

Ultratex GMS, Ultratex QS, Ultratex SI

Anti- bacteria with Moisture Management

Anti Microbial EU5772/5, Passerelle DFD

Silicon based chemical used for Bulk

Selater

The various types of special finishes that done here are: -

Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric. It is a special finish used on fabrics. It gives fabric a lustrous appearance, softness, strength and eliminates hairiness. It improves the dye pick up of the fabric i.e. makes cotton take up dye better.

Caustic soda and a wetting agent is used to treat the fabric in 3 washes. The first two washes are done at a temp of 900 C. Then, before the third wash, the fabric is neutralized using the following reagents:-

Soda solution = 48 -50% + 50 % water

Wetting agent = Invadine MR

Anti-foaming agent = Pine Oil

The third wash is done at 700 C using the same chemicals as used for first and second washes.

There is 1 Mercerizer / Bleaching machine by Dornier, Germany in the unit.

The fabric is mercerized only when it is asked by the buyer. Otherwise it is dyed unmercerized.

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MERCERIZATION MACHINE

The fabric after dyeing comes to finishing department and gets treated first in Corino machine. All fabrics irrespective of their type, colour, type of finish, or form passes through Corino machine. The processes that take place on Corino Machine are as follows: -

1) Squeezing- This is done by Rope Squeezer which has a general pressure of 1.0 Bar. It squeezes the fabric rope (as unloaded from dyeing machine) as it enters the machine, to remove extra water.

2) Slitting- This process is only applied if Tubular fabrics are to be converted to Open-Width. This can be done by 2 ways – if it is knitted tubular, then it is siltted using a slitter with an upright fan and sensor; if it is made tubular in Greige then the stitch is manually opened by pulling the thread as the fabric passes.

If the fabric is Open-Width, then it is simply passed through it without slitting.

3) Washing- The fabric is then washed with water to remove any extra dye from the fabric.

4) Squeezing- The fabric is then squeezed by the Padding Mangle which has a general pressure of 5.0 Bar.

5) Plaiting- The fabric then passes through the Plaiter which plaits the fabric into the trolley for further processing. This is important because the fabric may have to be kept waiting before the next process starts, and if it is not plaited then it may get patchy or may develop creases. So it is plaited and kept.

Machine speed may vary depending upon the type of process, or fabric.

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CORINO SLITTING MACHINE

MERCERIZED

SAMPLE

UNMERCERIZED

SAMPLE

The similar kind of process takes place for tubular fabrics, which are not to be slitted. The tubular fabrics are passed through Santa Stretch machine, instead of Corino. There are 2 Corino Slitting Machines, and 1 Santa Stretch Machine in the finishing department of knits processing unit.

The Stenter is the next process that the fabric goes through. There are two stages at which the fabric goes through the Stenter machine.

Firstly, if the fabric is Lycra or Lycra blend, then it is heat set in Stenter machine at a general temperature of 190-2000 C

before it is dyed, in order to give stability to the fabric and to avoid any extra stretch. The chemicals usually used, while heat setting the fabric, are Lanaryl RK (Emulsifying agent) and ACA (Anti-Creasing Agent).

Secondly, all the fabrics coming from Corino machine pass through the Stenter in order to get dried. The fabric is first made to pass through softener chemicals like Microsil Mega 168/Selester, Smooth 90/Nysil and Acetic Acid; then through the pinning table it is made to pass through different chambers (6 or 7 chambers) where the temperature varies from 1500 C – 1700 C for drying. There are heating coils inside the chambers and fans on top of the chambers which maintain the temperature and avoid the fabric from burning.

The Stenter reduces about 8-12% moisture of the fabric and hence it’s GSM. Gumming can also be done in Stenter but there is no cutting provision in these Stenters.

The special finishes like Anti- Microbial finish, Anti- Odour Finish etc. are done on Stenter by using the various associated chemicals instead of normal softeners. For e.g. For Anti- Microbial finish, chemicals like Anti Microbial EU5772/5, Passerelle DFD are used instead of Microsil Mega 168, Smooth 90, and Acetic Acid.

For tubular fabrics, similar operation takes place but instead of Stenter, Relax Drier is used. 2-3 different tubular fabrics can be processed at a time in Relax Drier.

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STENTER MACHINE

At the end of Stenter, where the fabric is plaited, Inspection takes place and fabric width, GSM, hand-feel, softness, moisture etc. are inspected. A sample is cut and sent to Quality Assurance Department, where Shade, Chemical, Stretch, Design, handfeel etc. are assured.

There are 4 Stenters and 1 Relax Drier as described below:

2 Sun Super Stenters-ISST-&TP by ILSUNG Machinery co. Ltd., Korea. (7 Chambers)

1 Montex Stenter 6500-6F twin-air by MONFORTS Textile Maschinen GMBH & co., Germany. (7 Chambers)

1 Montex Stenter 6500-6F twin-air by MONFORTS Textile Maschinen GMBH & co., Germany. (6 Chambers)

1 Relax Drier by FONG'S National Eng. co. Ltd., Shenzhen. (8 Chambers)

Compact is the next process which is not compulsory. This machine increases the moisture content by 2-3% and hence the GSM of the fabric. Hence if the GSM needs to be increased, only then the fabric is compacted. Gumming and Cutting of Lycra, Lycra blends, Viscose etc type of fabric also takes place in Compactor Machine. Poly Vinyl Acrylate (PVA) is used as Gum.

The fabric may also be compacted if it’s stretch, spirality, bowing, skewing etc. needs to be corrected.

Sueding machine is a special type of finishing machine that imparts the fabrics with extra smoothness and improves its handfeel. The machine raises the fibres on the surface of the fabric giving it a cottony look. There are drums with bristles that brush the surface of the fabric increasing its hairiness. The major function of the machine is Sharing or levelling the hairiness of the fabric. The parameters that are to be maintained are: -

Speed of the drums, which ranges between 10 – 35 RPM. The more is the GSM of the fabrics, the lower is the speed. Lycra blends are normally not processed in this machine, as it develops permanent creases which cannot be removed even after compacting.

Tension of various parts like Plaiter & Drum, Take in tension, Fabric return tension etc. are to be maintained.

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COMPACTOR MACHINE

SUEDING MACHINE

This department includes the Quality Assurance, Inspection and Quality Control departments. The fabric after finishing is transferred to folding department, for its quality vigilance.

This is a process which determines whether the fabric so produced meets the customer’s expectations and/or specified requirements or not. For this purpose, at the end of Stenter, a sample of fabric is cut and forwarded to QA department. The QA department matches the Shade, Handfeel, Stretch, Shrink, Chemical, Contamination, Dead Cotton and Design of the fabric with the requirements specified by the buyer.

If the QA report is positive, the fabric is moved ahead, otherwise it is held back to repair the faults. The QA report flows along with the batch card of the lot.

The next process after QA is Inspection, which is done on Inspection Tables. The company adopts 4-Point Inspection System.

This test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection. It may be used for the delivery and acceptance of fabrics with requirements mutually agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier. This system does not establish a quality level for a given product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according to their severity by assigning demerit point values. The length of defect is used to determine the penalty points.

The defect demerit points are as follows:

Length of Defect Demerit pointUp to 3 inches 1>3 inches <6 inches 2>6 inches <9 inches 3>9 inches 4

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FOLDING DEPARTMENT

QUALITY ASSURANCE

INSPECTION & QUALITY CONTROL

The four-point system derives its name from the basic grading rule that a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for any single defect and that no linear meter can be assigned more than four points regardless of the number of defects within that piece.

Only major defects are considered. A major defect is any defect, if found on a finished product, would classify the product as B-grade.

Any defect of continuous nature, or a severe defect shall be assigned 4 points for each meter in which it occurs.

The maximum penalty for any one meter shall not be more than 4 points.

There are 15 inspection machines in this unit, which are described as below:

2 Testa Inspection Machines from Italy 13 Hsing Cheng Inspection Machines from Taiwan

The procedure for inspection is given as under:

Physical Quality Inspection Procedure:

Inspection equipment requirements:-

Both fabric supplier & garment maker should have inspection machines.

Flat surface supplies/ viewing area

Variable speed drive & yardage/meter counter

Undercarriage light

Overhead light

Clean inspection frame

Free of any sharp edges or other condition that could damage fabric.

Tension free positive driven machines for knitted fabrics.

Inspection speed should not exceed 20 yards per minute.

Fabric physical quality inspection procedure

Inspection lighting

Examination & grading performed with overhead direct lighting.

Overhead direct lighting mounted parallel to the viewing surface.

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Inspection frame tilted to let fabric pass at an angle of 45-60 degrees to the

horizontal.

Overhead CWF lighting should provide an illumination level of a maximum of

100 foot candles (1075 lux) on the surface of fabric.

Back-light (or undercarriage light) only used on an exception basis for specific

types of faults.

In no case should fabric be rejected for faults only visible with the backlight if;

I. The fault is not visible in garment form as would normally be worn and

II. The fault will not cause the fabric or garment to fail in its use

Forms of inspection (ASTMD 3940 93)

Following are the various defects due found at the time of inspection: -

Abrasion mark

Barre

Bow

Coarse end/pick

Colour fly/fly waste

Dead cotton/ (trash)

Double end/ pick

End out

Fine end

Hole

Dark-in

Loose/ tight course

Misprint

Needle line

Pills

Alien (foreign) fibre

Bird’s eye

Broken end /pick

Colour bleeding/staining

Colour smear

Crease mark

Doctor streak

Dropped stitch

Filling bar

Fuzzy

Harness misdraw (reed misdraw)

Knot

Mispick

Misregister

Open reed (Reed mark)

Sanforizing mark

Set mark(stop mark)

Skew

Slub

Snag

Stain

Temple mark

Tight end/pick

Uneven dyeing

Warp streak

Wrinkle

Scalloped selvage

Shuffle mark

Slack end/ pick

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Slug

Soiled end/filling/yarn

Thick/thin place

Uneven weaving

Wavy cloth

Thin filling/ end

Tight (slack/wavy) selvage

Following are some samples of defects found in knits: -

Thick and thin place Yarn

Patta

Selvage to Selvage Shade Variation Roll to Roll

Shade Variation

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Hairiness Contamination

Needle Marks Needle Line

Colour bleeding Staining

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Misprint Print Shift

Crease Mark Dead Cotton

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Uneven Dyeing Abrasion Mark

Holes Colour Patches

Slub Misprint

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Printing is a separate department where printing of knits, woven, and wider width (i.e. home furnishing) takes place under one roof. There are 2 types of printing that are carried out here: Rotary Screen Printing and Digital Printing which can be pigment print, reactive print, pigment discharge print or vat print.

Rotary screen printing is the prime printing process that is

employed for maximum bulk printing. The process flow for printing

via rotary screen printing is as follows:

Engraving

Printing

Ageing/ Curing

Washing

Finishing

Engraving is the process of preparing the screen for printing. The

screen that are used here are of 4 different circumferences i.e. 640

mm, 819 mm, 914 mm, 1015 mm and 3 different widths i.e. 3500

mm, 3000 mm, 2000 mm. 640 mm and 2000 mm is the most

commonly used size of screen for printing normal width fabrics.

The screen, made up of nickel, comes in a flat box. 2 rings of

required circumference are attached at the 2 ends, making it into a

tube, which is then kept in Curing Oven/ Polymerizer for 2 hours

for Curing or Setting the shape of the cylindrical screen. It is put in

Degreasing Tank for removing any impurities.

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PRINTING DEPARTMENT

ENGRAVING

Next the screen is coated with a Photo Emulsion Chemical in

Screen Coating Tank, and dried in Climatizer for 20 min to dry the

coating, only dry enough to be washed off easily with water. The

colour of the screen turns green form white.

The design to be printed is separated colour wise, and one screen

is prepared for one colour of the design. 12-14 colours can be

printed at a time in the rotary screen printing machine available

there. The separated design is sent to the computer which controls

the Engraver. The time is set for printing which varies according to

the design. The design is printed, with Black colour, on the screen

by CST Inkjet Engraver. The printer moves in the forward direction

and the screen rotates in its place.

Then UV emitter in the Printer emits UV light in the same way as

the printer works, thus hardening the Photo Emulsion Chemical,

except in the areas which are printed black. Then, in the WET

Area, the Photo Emulsion Chemical, which was not hardened i.e.

the printed areas, are washed off with water, exposing the screen

beneath. The colour of the screen turns blue from green.

Then it is scanned in the light for any design portion which has not

been freed from the chemical, and cured by hand. It is then placed

in the Polymerizer/ Curing Oven again for 2 hours to harden the

screen in its shape. After final curing, the screen turns green in

colour. After it is cured, it is ready for use in the rotary printing

machine.

Depending upon the intricacy of the design, the density of the

screen varies from 40 dots per linear inch to 155 dots per linear

inch, out of which 80, 105, 155 dots per linear inch are most

commonly used.

The screens after use are stored for 90 days if in case the order is

repeated. After that, the screens are stripped i.e. the chemical, the

design etc are removed from the screen. The stripping tank

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contains chemicals like LV-20, LS-5, and ultrasonic waves, which

help in stripping. After stripping, the screen is checked for its

thickness, strength, etc. and is reused accordingly.

There is 1 Curing Oven, 1 screen coating tank, 1 Climatizer, 2

CST Inkjet Engraver, 1 degreasing tank in this unit.

The screens thus prepared are taken to Rotary Printing machine

for printing. There are 4 Rotary printing machines in the unit:-

1 Laxmi Printing m/c, India – 12 colours.

1 Reggiani Rotary Printing m/c, Italy – 12 colours, for wider

width fabric, normal width fabric and knits.

1 Reggiani Rotary Printing m/c, Italy – 12 colours, Touch-

screen, for wider width fabric, normal width fabric and knits.

1 Reggiani Rotary Printing m/c, Italy – 14 colours, Touch-

screen, for normal width fabric and knits.

The fabric, as it enters the machine, first goes through the

cleaning zone which consists of brushing bristles and suction

pumps. After cleaning, the fabric goes through the gumming

region, where the belt of the machine is gummed so that the fabric

sticks on the belt and does not shift from its place while printing.

Then the fabric passes through the printing heads, where the

rotary engraved screens are attached in the order of darker to

lighter shades. The pressure of 4.0 Bar is applied on the printing

heads when they are in action. There are magnetic rods of 8 mm

to 20 mm diameter, present under the belt of the machine, and

24

PRINTING

steel rods are inserted inside the screens along with the squeezee

which are attached to the pumps that pump the colours in the

inside of the screen. The magnetic rods attract the steel rod inside

the screen with a pressure of 4.0 Bar and simultaneously the

pumps pump the colours inside the squeezee, the steel rod

presses the squeezee and the colour is released, passes through

the pores of the screen onto the fabric.

Then the fabric passes through the drying section, which dries the

print. The heating takes place by heating oil. The drying takes

place in loop form i.e. the fabric takes 3 or 5 turns inside the

chamber and dries the print at a temperature of about 1500 C. At a

time, 50 m of cloth remains inside the chamber, while drying. Then

the fabric is rolled (if woven) or plaited in the trolley (if knitted) and

transferred to the next department.

Ageing is the process applied for Reactive prints for developing

the colour of the print. Curing is the process applied for Pigment

prints for fixing the colour of the print.

The basic difference between the two processes are that Curing

does not use steam and is dry heating process, where as Ageing

uses steam and is moist heating process. This process is carried

out in Polymerizer or Curing Oven which has chambers.

The fabric moves inside the chambers in loop form as shown in

the diagram below:

25

AGEING/ CURING

Fabric

Chamber

Loop height is 90% of the chamber. At a time, 120 m fabric

remains inside.

In Curing, binder is used for fixing the colour. Colour to binder ratio

is 1:3.

Temp. = 1500 C in 2 Chambers

Dwell time = 6 min

Steam = 0 kg

In Ageing,

Temp. = 1020 C

Dwell time = 6 min

Steam = 1200 kg/hr

There are 2 Polymerizers or Curing Ovens of Arioli Blue Pager,

Germany.

After fixing the colour of the print, the fabric is washed in Soaper/

Washer. The fabric passes through padder which has chemicals to

wash the fabric, then through UV flasher which develops colour

during washing, and then through dryer which has 1500 C temp for

discharge print and any temp for pigment print. The fabric is then

rolled (if woven) or plaited (if knitted) and transferred to the

respective departments for finishing.

There are 2 soapers in this unit: -

1 Arioli Soaping Machine, Germany

1 Benninger Soaping Machine, Japan

26

WASHING & DRYING

PROJECT TOPIC:-

27

WET PROCESSING OF KNITTED

FABRICS LIKE SINGLE

JERSEY, RIB, INTERLOCK, LYCRA ETC.

28

P.O.: - 037475

S.O.: -22327

Customer Name: - MAS Intimates Thurulie (Pvt.) Ltd.

Buyer Name: - M&S (Dept T 61)

Material: - 40s FT Cotton + 20D Spandex (92% CT + 8% ELS)

Fabric: - Single Jersey Lycra

Process Flow

29

Greige (Batch Making)

Dyeing

1. RFD (Pre-Treatment)2. Dyeing3. Auto Wash Off (After

Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter3. Compact Machine

Folding

1. Quality Assurance2. Inspection3. Quality Control

Packaging & Dispatching

Stenter (Heat Setting)

LOT NO -1

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109320037475

Shade: - Heather MSCC47766A

Material: - 40s FT Cotton + 20D Spandex (92% CT + 8% ELS)

Sort No.: - AK13705FG

Order Quantity: - 324 kg

Greige issue: - 380 kg

Greige GSM: - 160.0

Required GSM: - 155.0

Gauge: - 28

Meter/Kg: - 3.84

Diameter: - 30”

Rolls consumed: - 11

Ropes Prepared: - 02

Lot No.: - K49122

Knit Lot No.: - SJNO3028-11-0055

Yarn Lot No.: - /3LH1000073

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 5

Fabric quality: - Grade A

Fabric form: - Open Width

Quantity: - 152.630 kg

Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 6




Total Quantity: - 334.030 kg

Length: - 1283 m

Date: - 25/05/2011

30

STENTER (HEAT SETTING): -Quantity: -380 kg


Machine: - ILSUNG Stenter 1 (Heat Set)

Chamber Temperature: -

Chamber 1

Chamber 2

Chamber 3

Chamber4 Chamber 5

Chamber 6

Chamber 7

200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC

Chain Width: - 172 cm

Over Feeding: - 40 %

Pinning: - 20-25 %

Nip Pressure: - 3 Bar

Machine Speed: - 13 m/min

Final GSM: - 187

Final Width: - 175 cm

Start Time: - 6:00 p.m.

End Time: - 6:30 p.m.

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 37475

Quantity: - 380 kg

Machine No.: - 500 H – 3


Lab Dip No.: M-52180930 B

Start Time: - 9:24 a.m. End Time: -1:00 a.m.

Loading: - 380 kg

31

Under loading: - 24 % (To compensate for the stretching of fabric)

Theor Water: - 440 min

32

Dyeing Method: - Isothermal

MLR: - 1:07

1) RFD (Ready For Dyeing/Pre-treatment) : -

Total duration: -194 min

Water consumed: - 12, 958 l

RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - Good (2.5 sec)

Hardness: - 50 ppm

Before dyeing pH: - 6.02SAMPLE

2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. Yellow HFGR 0.089% 0.118%Am. Red HF2BL 0.47% 0.453%Am. Blue HFBR 0.418% 0.43%

Common salt (NaCl) 30 g/l 30 g/lCaustic lye(NaOH) 5 g/l 5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 0.5 g/l 0.5g/l

Topping Recipe: -

Material ConcentrationAm. Yellow HFGR 0.26%Am. Red HF2BL 0.312%Am. Blue HFBR 0.172%

Common salt (NaCl) 30 g/lCaustic lye(NaOH) 5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 0.5 g/l

33

Bulk Topping: -Am. Red HF2BL: - 70 g + 90 gAm. Blue HFBR: - 10 g + 30 g

Time taken: - 174 minutesWater consumed: - 4,483 lDye Solution pH: - 10.5

3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -

Time Taken: - 175 minutes

Water consumed: - 9,766 l

Soaping pH: - 6.5

Final pH: - 5.75

LCH (Lightness – Chrome- Hue) Test: - SAMPLE

1) Greige sample: -

Illuminant: - D65

BAT CIE WI BAT CIE Tint BAT TD-23.14 -12.62 RR

2) RFD sample: -

Illuminant used: - D65

STD CIE WI STD CIE Tint64.14 -1.68

3) Dyed sample: -

L C HStandard (company)

45.31 15.12 309.71

Bulk sample 45.69 13.57 314.51

4) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)

D65 0.47 -1.40 1.06 1.82 91.97

34

F11 0.50 -1.52 1.12 1.95 91.97

FINISHING:-1) Corino Slitting Machine: -

M/c No.: - Corino 2

Process: - Plaiting

Start time: - 11:50 a.m.

End time: - 12:30 p.m.

Pressure: -

Rope Squeezer: - 1.0 Bar Padding Mangle: - 5.0 Bar

Quantity: - 382 kg

M/c Speed: - 50 m/min

2) Stenter Machine (Drying): -

M/c No.: - Monforts ST -2

Process: - Finish

Start time: - 1:50 p.m.


Chamber Temp.: -

Chamber1 Chamber2 Chamber3 Chamber4 Chamber5 Chamber61600C 1600C 1600C 1600C 1600C 1600C

Quantity: - 382 kg


Final Width: - 177-178 cm

Overfeed: - 50%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1400/1400

35


Final GSM: - 150, 137

Chemicals used: -

S. No.

Material Concentration Quantity

1 Microsil Mega 168 10 GPL 1.00 kg2 Smooth 90 20 GPL 2.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 0.50 kgTotal volume = 100 l

3) Compactor: -

M/c No.: - Compact 3 Quantity: - 382 kg

Process: - Finish Machine Speed: - 16 m/min

Start time: - 11:00 a.m. End time: - 12:15 p.m.

Normal Width: - 170 cm Chain Width: - 197 cm

Final Width: - 173/174 cm Overfeed: - 24.2%

Pinning Right: - 60% Pinning Left: -60%

Final GSM: - 146, 149

No. of Rope run: - 2

Chindi/ Waste: - 13.0 kg

FOLDING: -Q.A. Report: -

Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

36

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -

S.N. Test Method Result Requirement

i) Courses/inch ASTM D3887 2008

64

ii) Wales/inch ASTM D3887 2008

36

iii) Fabric weight[GSM] (GM/M2)/(oz./sq. Yd)

M & S P65 152/4.48 155

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3784 2008

170/66.93

v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008

167.0/65.75 165

vi) Dimensional stability to washing (%) - Length

M & S PIA (MSW (III))

-4.7 -5+-2

vii) Dimensional stability to washing (%) - Width

M & S PIA (MSW (III))

-7.7 -7+-2

viii) Spirality M & S PIB 20 mm 20 mmix) Length- Extension at 1.5 kg

load (%)PI5A 93.8 80 +-15

x) Width- Extension at 1.5 kg load (%)

PI5A 118.5 120+-15

xi) Length-Load (Modulus) at 40 % extension (gm)

PI5A 70 80+-30

xii) Width-Load (Modulus) at 40 % extension (gm)

PI5A 50 48+-30

xiii) Length % Residual Extension (%)

PI5A 12.5 <=20.00

xiv) Width % Residual Extension (%)

PI5A 28.8 <=30.00

Colour Fastness Test: -

Sn

Test Method ShadeChange

Staining on RequirementsSelf Ace C N P Acr W Shade

Change

Staining

1 CF to Washing M&S 64A at 50oC

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

37

2 CF to Rubbing (Dry)

M&S C8 4-5 4

3 CF to Water M&S C6 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 44 CF to Perspiration

(Acidic)M&S C7 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

5 CF to Perspiration (Alkaline)

M&S C7 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 165-169 cmRoll to Roll GSM 151-164Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation NoSkew % 12.2 - 15.3 %Grouping if any NoAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OKDead cotton OKContamination OKVertical/Horizontal lines OK

PACKAGING AND DISPATCHING: -Batch no.: - 37475 Order Quantity: - 324 kg

Quantity packed against Greige issue: - 333 kg (out of 380 kg)

Quantity sold: - 333 kg Quantity unsold: - 0 kg

No. of rolls packed: - 12

Wt. Loss: - 12%

38

P.O.: - 037589

S.O.: - 21886

Customer Name: - Ocean Sky International

Buyer Name: - Ocean Sky

Material: - AK11123NRDDKNF 100% organic combed cotton

Fabric: - 1X1 Rib

Process Flow

39

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)


Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter

Folding



LOT NO -2

40

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109320037589

Shade: - BLACK CN

Material: - 100% organic combed cotton (26s)

Sort No.: - AK11123NG



Greige GSM: - 180

Required GSM: - 210

Gauge: - 18

Meter/Kg: - 3.07

Diameter: - 30” = 76.2cm


Ropes Prepared: - 3

Lot No.: - K49289

Knit Lot No.: - RBN03018 -11- 0588

Yarn Lot No.: - /6LH110034A

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 7 rolls

Fabric quality: - 6 rolls of

Grade A + 1 roll of Grade B



Rope2:-





Rope3:-





41

Total Quantity: - 619.66 kg + 31.24 kg = 667.55 kg

Length: - 2049.37 m

Date: - 26/05/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 037589 + 037590

Quantity: - 668kg

Shade: - BLACK CN

Lab Dip No.: - OCD92180060B


Start time: - 11:20 am End time: - 6:50 pm

Loading: - 668 kg + 18 kg

Under loading: - 8.5%

Theor Water: - 440 min

Theor Time: - 39,017 l

Dyeing Method: - Synergy Trial



Water consumed: - 12845 l

RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - Good (2.5 sec)

Hardness: - 50 ppm

Before dyeing pH: - 6.4 SAMPLE

42

2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. Yellow HFGR 1.1% 1.210%Am. Red HF3B 1.6% 1.76%Am. Black HR2D 7.9% 8.69%

Common salt (NaCl) 90 g/l 90 g/lCaustic lye(NaOH) 1.5 g/l 1.5g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 5 g/l 5 g/l

Time duration: - 148 min


Dye Solution pH: - 10.2

3) Auto Wash off (After dyeing treatment): -

Time duration: - 170 min


pH (Soaping Solution): - 6.02

Final pH: - 5.75

LCH (Lightness-Chrome-Hue) test: SAMPLE

1) RFD sample: -



43

2) Dyed sample: -


14.01 1.09 313.99

Bulk sample 20.05 13.51 133.38

3) DLCH: -


D65 0.32 0.17 -0.24 0.53 96.78F11 0.26 -0.13 -0.33 0.56 96.78


M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Plaiting


End time: - 12:00 a.m.

Pressure: -

Rope Squeezer: - 1.0 BarPadding Mangle: - 5.0 Bar

Quantity: - 668 kg




Process: - Finish

Start time: - 4:50 a.m. End time: - 6:29 a.m.

Chamber Temp.: -


44

Quantity: - 668 kg



Overfeed: - 20%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 80/80


Final GSM: - 208

Chemicals used: -

S. No.


1 Microsil Mega 168 20 GPL 2.00 kg2 Smooth 90 40 GPL 4.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 0.5 kgTotal volume = 100 l


Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

45

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -



44


28


ISO 3801 1977 216/6.13 210


163/64.17


161.0/63.39 152


ISO 6330 2009 -7.3 -8.0


ISO 6330 2009 -8.0 -8.0

viii) Spirality AATCC 174 2004 1.0% 5.0%ix) Bursting Strength ISO-13438-2 1999 752.3 kPA


Sn



Change

Staining

1 CF to Washing ISO-105-C06-B25-

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/Ac, N=2-3


ISO-105X12-2001

4.5 4-5 4

3 CF to Rubbing (wet)

ISO-105x12-2001

3 2 2

4 CF to Water ISO-105-E01-2010

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/Ac, N=2-3

5 CF to Perspiration (Acidic)

ISO-105-E04-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/Ac,N=2-3


ISO-105-E04-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/Ac,N=2-3

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll width 156-160 cmRoll to Roll GSM 200-220Roll to Roll Handfeel OkDesign & Shade Shade OkCentre to Selvage shade variation OkSkew% NoGrouping if any NoAesthetic looks of fabric ‘Yarn patta’- ‘C’ fault (unsold)- OkHairiness OkDead cotton NormalContamination OkVertical/Horizontal lines 2 rolls have minor oil line but packed - Ok

PACKAGING & DISPATCHING: -Batch no: - 37589 Order Quantity: - 615 kg

Quantity packed against greige issue: - 622 kg (out of 668 kg)


No. Of rolls packed: - 21

Wt. Loss: - 6.8%

P.O.: - 027934

S.O.: -36753

Customer Name: - Rolex Hosiery Pvt. Ltd.

Buyer Name: - MACYS

Material: - 20s Vortex Viscose

Fabric: - Viscose Single Jersey

Process Flow

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter

Folding




LOT NO -3

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109310027934

Shade: - Tile Blue

Material: - 20s Vortex Viscose

Sort No.: - AK13976G


Greige issue: - 437.620 kg

Greige GSM: - 174.0

Required GSM: -220

Gauge: - 24

Meter/Kg: - 2.65

Diameter: - 30”



Lot No.: - K49401


Yarn Lot No.: - KD1105-076/-Y3BV

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 5

Fabric quality: - 4 rolls of Grade A & 1 roll of Grade B



Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 5




Rope3:-

Rolls consumed: - 5





Length: - 1,159.69 m

Date: - 28/05/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 27934

Quantity: - 438 kg

Shade: - Tile Blue

Lab Dip No.: L-62182733 “E”

Machine No.: - 500 H – 4 Start Time: - 4:55 a.m. End Time: -3:00 p.m.

Loading: - 438 kg

Under loading: - 12.4 % (To compensate for the stretching of fabric)

Theor Time: - 526 min

Theor Water: - 16,663 l

Dyeing Method: - Migration

MLR: - 1:10




RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeReactive Yellow MEGGL 0.0443% 0.04%Reactive Blue MerRF 0.0195% 0.17%Reactive T.B. H2GP 0.26% 0.221%

Common salt (NaCl) 15 g/l 15 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 15 g/l 15g/l

Topping Recipe: -

Material ConcentrationArm. Yellow HFGR 0.003%Arm. Blue MERF 0.05%


Alkali pH: - 10.25

Time taken: - 257 minutes


3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): - Time Taken: - 119 minutes Water consumed: - 5,621 l Soaping pH: - 6.76 Final pH: - 7.5


1) RFD sample: -Illuminant used: - D65

BAT CIE WI BAT CIE Tint BAT TD68.01 -0.81 GI

2) Dyed sample: -

L C HStandard (company) 64.19 17.04 209.25Bulk sample 55.28 19.29 317.25

3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 0.24 0.41 0.39 0.62 94.44F11 0.25 1.52 0.27 0.64 94.44


M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Plaiting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 438 kg


2) Stenter Machine (Finishing): -

M/c No.: -Ilsung ST -1

Process: - Finish



Chamber Temp.: -

Chamber1 Chamber2 Chamber3 Chamber4 Chamber5 Chamber6 Chamber71500C 1500C 1500C 1500C 1500C 1500C 1500C




Overfeed: - 50% (due to low GSM)

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1000/1000


Final GSM: - 249, 242

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration Quantity1 Microsil Mega 168 10 GPL 16.00 kg2 Smooth 90 40 GPL 4.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 0.50 kgTotal volume = 100 l


Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -

S.N. Test Method Result Requirementi) Courses/inch ASTMD3887 2008 52ii) Wales/inch ASTMD3887 2008 32iii) Fabric Weight (GSM) [(gm/m2)

(oz./sq. yd)]ASTM D3776 2009 203.0/5.99 220

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 186.0/73.23v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 178.0/70.08vi) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - LengthAATCC 135 2004 -12.3 -10


AATCC 135 2004 -6.0 -10

viii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 2.0% 8-10%ix) Bursting Strength ASTMD3786 2008 79.4 PSIx) Pilling Resistance at 30

minutesASTMD3512 2007 3.5 2-2.5 A/W


Sn



Change

Staining

1 CF to laundering AATC 61-2A-2008

4.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0


AATCC-8-2007

4.5 4.0

3 CF to Rubbing (Wet)

AATCC-8-2007

4.5 3.0

4 CF to Water AATCC 107-2-2009

4.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0


AATCC 15-2009

4.0 4.5 3.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 3.5

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 176-180 cmRoll to Roll GSM 201-236Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation OKSkew % 5.3-7.7% OKGrouping if any NoAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OK

PACKAGING AND DISPATCHING: -Batch no.: - 27934



Quantity sold: - 392 kg

Quantity unsold: - 12 kg


Wt. Loss: - 7.5%

P.O.: - 027950

S.O.: -32907

Customer Name: - Gokuldas Images (P) Ltd. (Knitting)

Buyer Name: - VANS

Material: - 24s polyester cotton (40% polyester+ 60% cotton) Flat Back

Fabric: - Flat Back Thermal Waffle

Process Flow

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter

Folding




LOT NO -4

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109310027950

Shade: - BLACK

Material: - 24s polyester cotton (40% polyester+ 60% cotton) Flat Back

Sort No.: - AK1393G



Greige GSM: - 198.0


Gauge: - 18

Meter/Kg: - 2.96

Diameter: - 30”



Lot No.: - K49301, K49349, K49419, K49395, K49408

Knit Lot No.: - RBNO3018-11-0540, RBNO3018-11-0662

Yarn Lot No.: - KD1104-107/-D513

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 8




Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 8




Rope3:-

Rolls consumed: - 8




Rope4:-

Rolls consumed: - 6



Quantity: - 179.040


Length: - 2437.06 m

Date: - 29/05/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 27950

Quantity: - 864 kg

Shade: - BLACK

Lab Dip No.: 109310025666

Machine No.: - 1000 H – 1 Start Time: - 6:40 a.m. End Time: -7:20 p.m.

Loading: - 854 kg





MLR: - 1:07




RFD sample: -

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - Very Good (0.3-0.5 sec)

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. Yellow HFGR 0.12% 0.118%

Am. Black HR2D 4.8% 0.453%Coralene Black XF (For Polyester)

6.0% 6.0%

Common salt (NaCl) 8 g/l 8 g/lCaustic lye(NaOH) 5 g/l 3.5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 1.5 g/l 1.5g/l


Alkali pH: - 10.09



3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -Time Taken: - 172 minutesWater consumed: - 33,048 lSoaping pH: - 7.2Final pH: - 5.93


1) RFD sample: -

L C HBulk sample 62.12 129.99 126.05

2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 0.78 0.91 -0.48 1.29 92.28F11 0.71 1.13 0.01 1.33 92.28

FINISHING:-

1) Corino Slitting Machine: -

M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Cutting



Pressure: -






Process: - Finish


End time: - 12:00 noon

Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 382 kg




RPM / Fan Speed: - 1600/1600


Final GSM: - 249, 242

Chemicals used: -


FOLDING: -

Q.A. Report: -

Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -

S.N. Test Method Result Requirementi) Fabric Weight (GSM) (gm/m2)

(oz./sq. yd)ASTM D3776 2009 251/7.40 240

ii) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 148.5/58.46iii) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 146.5/57.68 137.2iv) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - LengthAATCC 135 2004 -7.8 -10

v) Dimensional stability to washing (%) - Width

AATCC 135 2004 -8.6 -10

vi) Spirality AATCC 135 2004 1.0% 5.0%vii) Bursting Strength ASTMD3786 2008 110.2 PSIviii) Pilling Resistance ASTMD3512 2007 2.0 2-2.5 A/W


Sn



Change

Staining


4.0 4.5 3.5 4.0 4.5 3.0 4.0 4.0 3.0


AATCC-8-2007

4.5 4.5 4.0


AATCC-8-2007

2.5 4.5 3.0


4.0 3.0 3.5 4.0 3.5 4.5 4.0 3.0


AATCC 15-2009

4.0 3.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.5 4.0 3.0

Quality Control: -

Shifting in slitting line in 2 meters

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 144-146 cmRoll to Roll GSM 232-250Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation SLVSkew % NoGrouping if any NoAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OKDead cotton OKContamination OKVertical/Horizontal lines OK

PACKAGING AND DISPATCHING: -

Batch no.: - 27950






Wt. Loss: - 3.52%

P.O.: - 000952 (Job Work)

S.O.: -05442

Customer Name: - Poppys knitwear (p) ltd

Buyer Name: - POPPY

Material: - 50005413

Fabric: - Honey Comb Pique

Process Flow

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Santa Stretch2. Relax Dryer

Folding




LOT NO -5

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109330000952

Shade: - Deep Red

Material: - 50005413

Sort No: - NA (Since its job work)



Greige GSM: - 190

Required GSM: - 215

Gauge: - NA (Since its job work)

Meter/Kg: -

Diameter: - 30’’

Rolls consumed: -


Lot No.: - 3015058919

Knit Lot No.: - NA (Since its job work)

Yarn Lot No.: - NA (Since its job work)

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 00952

Quantity: - 337 kg

Shade: - Deep Red


Loading: - 337 kg

Under loading: - 32.6 %

Start time: -3:30 p.m. End Time: -6:15 a.m.


Theor Water: - 23,453

Dyeing Method: -Synergy

MLR: - 1:15




RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. Yellow HR2D 1.64% 1.64%Am. Red HF3B 4.8% 0.480%Am. Blue H1FBR 0.325% 0.325%

Common salt (NaCl) 70 g/l 70 g/lCaustic Flakes 1.5 g/l 1.5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 15 g/l 15g/l

Topping Recipe: -

Material Quantity used in BulkAm. Red 1.6 kgCommon Salt 25 kgSoda Ash 38 kg

Dye Solution pH: - 6

Alkali pH: - 10.56



RFT SAMPLE


Extra soapingNSR=1.2 kg/980C for 15 minutes

Time Taken: - 169 minutes Water consumed: - 13,049 l Soaping pH: - 5.75 Final pH: - 6.2

LCH (Lightness-Chrome-Hue) test:

1) RFD sample: - FINAL SAMPLEIlluminant: - D65

BAT CIE WI BAT CIE Tint BAT TD67.73 -0.92 GI

2) RFT sample: -


3) Dyed sample: -


4) DLCH: -RFT:

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 -0.53 -0.81 0.95 1.36 105.21F11 -0.49 -0.36 1.05 1.22 105.21

Dyed sample

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 -0.43 -0.57 0.25 0.75 106.79

F11 -0.35 -0.21 0.39 0.56 106.79

FINISHING:-1) Santa Stretch

Start time: - 5:00 a.m. End Time: - 5:45 a.m.Normal Width: - 112 cmExpander: - 115 cmMachine speed: - 45 m/minNip Pressure: - Nip 1 – 5.0 Bar Nip 2 – 3.0 Bar

2) Relax Dryer



M/c Speed: - 7m/min

Chamber Temp.: -

Chamber1 Chamber2 Chamber3 Chamber4 Chamber5 Chamber6 Chamber7 Chamber81300C 1300C 1300C 1300C 1300C 1300C 1300C 1300C

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration Quantity1 Microsil Mega 168 24 GPL 3.6kg2 Smooth 90 20 GPL 3.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 75 gmTotal volume = 150 l


Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 116-118 cmRoll to Roll GSM 190-223Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation SLVSkew % NoGrouping if any OKAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OKDead Cotton OKContamination OKVertical/Horizontal lines OK





Weight loss-0%

P.O.: - 037667

S.O.: -21829

Customer Name: - NORLANKA MANUFACTURING LTD

Buyer Name: - GEORGE

Material: - 30s 100% COTTON S/J

Fabric: - Single Jersey

Process Flow

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter

Folding



LOT NO -6


GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109320037667

Shade: - TRUE BLACK

Material: - 30s 100% COTTON S/J

Sort No.: - AK13828G



Greige GSM: - 140.0


Gauge: - 28

Meter/Kg: - 4.11

Diameter: - 30”


Ropes Prepared: - 6

Lot No.: - K49464


Yarn Lot No.: - KD1104-055/-3052

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 7



Quantity: - 199.86kg

Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Rope3:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Rope4:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Rope5:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Rope6:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Total Quantity: -1202.6kg

Length: - 4942.686 m

Date: - 30/05/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - O37667

Quantity: - 1203kg

Machine No.: - 1500-1

Shade: - TRUE BLACK

Lab Dip No.: D-92181444 B

Start Time: - 13:00p.m. End Time: -1:50a.m.

Loading: - 1203 kg


Theor Time: - 519min



MLR: - 1:07


Total duration: -100min


RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeRemazol ULTRA YELL RGBN

0.8% 0.90720%

Remazol RGB Ultra Carmine

0.46% 0.51360%

Black Deep B lack GWF 4.5% 5.04%

Common salt (NaCl) 70g/l 70 g/lCaustic lye(NaOH) 1.5 g/l 1.5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 1.5 g/l 1.5g/l


Alkali pH: - 10.43



3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -Time Taken: - 230 minutesWater consumed: - 40,539 lSoaping pH: - 6.7Final pH: - 6.4


1) RFD sample: -

L C HBulk sample 118.74 227.49 121.29

2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 -0.22 0.30 0.32 0.49 104.26F11 -0.27 0.33 -0.10 0.51 104.26

Salt SSC-1.038% conc (70 gpl) Extra soaping:98 degree C for 15 mins

FINISHING:-


M/c No.: - Corino 2

Process: - Plaiting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 1203 kg



M/c No.: -Monforts ST -3

Process: - Finish


End time: - 12:50p.m

Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 1203 kg



Overfeed: - 12%



Final GSM: - 140

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration Quantity1 Microsil Mega 168 10 GPL 2.00 kg2 Smooth 90 4 GPL 8.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 100 gTotal volume = 200 l

FOLDING: -

Q.A. Report: -

Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -

S.N. Test Method Result Requirementi) Courses/inch ASTM D3887 2008 52ii) Wales/inch ASTM D3887 2008 36iii) Fabric Weight (GSM) (gm/m2)

(oz./sq. Yd)ISO 3801 1977 147/4.34 140

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 181.5/71.46v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 176.5/69.49 170vi) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - LengthISO 6330 2009 -5.7 -7.0


ISO 6330 2009 -5.5 -7.0

viii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 3.0% 5.0%ix) Bursting Strength ISO-13938-2-1999 555.4 KPA


Sn



Change

Staining

1 CF to washing ISO 105 CO6-132S

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4


ISO 105X112 2001

4-5 4


ISO 105X112 2001

3 3

4 CF to Water ISO 105E01 2010

4 4-0 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

Quality Control: -

7 Rolls on hold due to dyeing problem

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 172-178cm (Excess width)Roll to Roll GSM 137-154 (1 roll has high GSM)Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation SLVSkew % 7.7-17.2%Grouping if any NoAesthetic look of fabric 7 rolls on hold due to undyed problemHairiness OKDead cotton OK

Contamination OKVertical/Horizontal lines OK


Batch no.: - 037667



Hold (if any):- 206 kg



Wt. Loss: - 4.5%

P.O.: - 001021 (Job Work)

S.O.: -05437

Customer Name: - Morning Star Apparels

Buyer Name: - MORNING STAR

Material: - 30s Unmercerized Cotton

Fabric: - Combed Fleece

Process Flow

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter Machine3. Compactor


LOT NO -7

Folding



GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109330001021

Shade: - Navy

Material: - Unmercerized Cotton

Sort No: - NA (Since its job work)



Greige GSM: -

Required GSM: - 275

Gauge: - NA (Since its job work)

Meter/Kg: -




Lot No.: - 30150445291

Knit Lot No.: - NA (Since its job work)

Yarn Lot No.: - NA (Since its job work)

Rope1:- Rope2:-


Fabric quality: - NA (Since its job work)



Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 5

Fabric quality: - NA (Since its job work)



Total Quantity: - 436 kg

Date: - 30/05/2011

DYEING:-P.O.: - 00952

Quantity: - 436 kg

Shade: - Navy


Loading: - 436 kg


Start time: -12:40 a.m. End Time: -7:05 p.m.




MLR: - 1:10


Total duration: -182 minWater consumed: - 6,727 l

RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK (1.01 sec)

Hardness: - OK

Before dyeing pH: - 5.72

SAMPLE

2) Dyeing:-Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. Yellow HFGR 0.55% 0.05665%Am. UltraRed HR4C 0.5% 0.52500%Am. Navy HR2D 2.00% 2.06000%

Common salt (NaCl) 70 g/l 70 g/lCaustic Flakes 1.5 g/l 1.5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 1.5 g/l 15g/l

Dye Solution pH: - 6 Alkali pH: - 10.45






Soaping pH: - 5.75

Final pH: - 6.2


1) RFD sample: - SAMPLEIlluminant: - D65

BAT CIE WI BAT CIE Tint BAT TD36.01 -5.88 R5

2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 0.17 -0.25 0.31 0.44 98.07F11 0.22 -0.31 0.33 0.50 98.07


M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Plaiting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 432kg


2) Stenter Machine(Finishing)

Phase 1M/c No.: -Ilsung ST -2Process: - FinishStart time: - 3:40 a.m.End time: - 4:20 a.m.

Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 432 kgChain Width: - 178cmFinal Width: - 180 cmOverfeed: - 50% RPM / Fan Speed: - 1200/1200Machine Speed: - 13 m/min

Phase 2M/c No.: -Ilsung ST -1Process: - FinishStart time: - 5:15 p.m.End time: - 5:30 pm.

Chamber Temp.: -

Chamber1 Chamber2 Chamber3 Chamber4 Chamber5 Chamber6 Chamber71600C 1600C 1600C 1600C 1600C 1600C 1600CQuantity: - 160 kg

Chain Width: - 178cm


Overfeed: - 50%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1200/1200


Chemicals used: -

S. No.

Material Concentration

1 Microsil Mega 168 16 GPL2 Smooth 90 40GPL3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL


Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Folding Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 177-178 cm 177-178 cmRoll to Roll GSM 252-263 252-263 (lower GSM, 275)Roll to Roll Hand feel OK OKDesign & Shade OK OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation

OK OK

Roll to Roll Shade variation OK OKSkew % OK NoGrouping if any OK OKAesthetic look of fabric OK OKHairiness OK OKDead Cotton OK OKContamination OK OKVertical/Horizontal lines OK OK

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -

S.N. Test Method Result Requirementi) Courses/inch ASTM D3887 2008 52ii) Wales/inch ASTM D3887 2008 28iii) Fabric weight[GSM]

(GM/M2)/(oz./sq. Yd)ISO 3801 1977 265/7.81 275

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 182/71.65v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 180/70.87 NAvi) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - LengthISO 6330 2009 -5.3 NA


ISO 6330 2009 -4.9 NA

viii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 1.0% NAix) Bursting Strength ISO-13938-2 1999 768.5 KPA


Sn


Staining on RequirementsSelf Ace C N P Acr W Shad

eChange

Staining

1 CF to Washing ISO 105 CO6-B2S-

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4


ISO 105X12-2001

4-5 4


ISO 105X12-2001

3 3-4





Weight loss-0%

P.O.: - 027494

S.O.: -00499

Customer Name: - Alok Industries Ltd. (Fabric Div.)

Buyer Name: - Alok Ind.

Material: - 30S Denim Moral Melange Single Jersey

Fabric: - Melange Single Jersey

Process Flow

Yarn Dyed Wash

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter3. Compact

Folding




LOT NO -8

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109310027494

Shade: - Any dyeing shade

Material: - 30S Denim Moral Melange SJ

Sort No.: - AK11139R



Greige GSM: - 135

Required GSM: - 145

Meter/Kg: - 3.87

Diameter: - 30”

Rolls consumed: - 2

Ropes Prepared: - 1

Lot No.: - K44389

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 2



Quantity: - 50 kg

Total Quantity: - 50 kg

Length: - 193.5 m

Date: - 31/05/2011

YARN DYED WASH:-

P.O.: - 027494

Quantity: - 50 kg

Shade: - Any Dyeing Shade

Lab Dip No.: Non- Moving

Machine No.: - 250 – 1

Start Time: - 8:00 a.m. End Time: -9:40 a.m.

Loading: - 55 kg



Theor Water: - 439 l


Soaping pH: - 6.60Final pH: - 5.93

SAMPLE


1) Final sample: -

L C HBulk sample 60.07 0.61 215.82


M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Plaiting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 50 kg




Process: - Finish



Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 50 kg






Final GSM: - 142

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration Quantity1 Microsil Mega 168 4 GPL 4.00 kg

2 Nysil 2 GPL 2.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 0.25 kgTotal volume = 100 l

3) Compactor: -

M/c No.: - Compact 3

Process: - Finish



Normal Width: - 175 cm


Overfeed: - 18%

Quantity: - 50 kg

Pinning Right: - 8.0%

Pinning Left: -8.0%

Final Width: - 181/180 cm


Final GSM: - 150


FOLDING: -

Q.A. Report: -

Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -

S.N. Test Method Result Requirementi) Courses per inch ASTM D3887 2008 48ii) Wales per inch ASTM D3887 2008 40iii) Fabric Weight (GSM) (gm/m2)

(oz./sq. yd)ASTM D3776 2009 139.0/4.10 145

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 180.0/70.87v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 177.0/69.69 175.0vi) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - LengthAATCC 135 2004 -6.6 -7.0


AATCC 135 2004 -7.7 -7.0

viii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 8.0% 5.0%ix) Bursting Strength ASTMD3786 2008 87.4 PSI


Sn



Change

Staining


4.0 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 3.5


AATCC-8-2007

4.5 4.0


AATCC-8-2007

4.0 2.5


4.0 4.5 4.5 3.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 3.0


AATCC 15-2009

4.0 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 3.0

Quality Control: -

15 Holes and 14 oil stains found.

Department Remarks Folding Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 175 cm 175 cmRoll to Roll GSM 143-148 143-145Roll to Roll Hand feel OK OKDesign & Shade OK OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation

OK OK

Roll to Roll Shade variation OK OKSkew % OK NoGrouping if any OK NoAesthetic look of fabric OK OKHairiness OK OKDead cotton OK OKContamination OK OK


Batch no.: - 27494



Quantity sold: - 46 KG Quantity unsold: - 0 kg


Wt. Loss: - 8%

P.O.: - 027945

S.O.: - 44592

Customer Name: - Gokaldas Images (P) Ltd. (knitting)

Buyer Name: - CARREFOUR

Material: - 34s + 20 Cotton lycra FIB SJ elastane extra soft


Process Flow


Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing


Folding




LOT NO -9

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109310027945

Shade: - Navy

Material: - 34s + 20 Cotton lycra FIB SJ elastane extra soft

Sort No.: -AK13789G



Greige GSM: - 225.0


Gauge: - 28

Meter/Kg: - 3.09

Diameter: - 30”



Lot No.: - K48831, K49416, K49528-9


Yarn Lot No.: - KD1010-172/-1U02

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 7

Fabric quality: - 5 rolls of Grade A + 2 rolls of Grade B



Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 7





Length: - 1334.9 m

Date: - 02/06/2011

STENTER (HEAT SETTING) :-Quantity: -432 kg

Shade: - Navy



Chamber 1 Chamber 2 Chamber 3 Chamber4 Chamber 5 Chamber 6 Chamber 7200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC 200oC

Quantity: - 422 kg



Overfeed: - 42%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1800/1800


Final GSM: - 207

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration1 RK 4 GPL2 ACA 4 GPL

Start Time: -10:15 a.m. End Time: - 11:45 a.m.

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 27945

Quantity: - 384 kg

Shade: - Navy

Lab Dip No.: - Repeat Order


Start Time: - 2:15 p.m. End Time: -1:00 a.m.


Loading: - 432 kg

Theor Water: -32,222 l



MLR: - 1:07


Total duration: - 194 min


RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. HF Yellow HFGR 0.902% 0.97%Am. HF Red HF3B 1.20% 1.21%Am. HF Navy HFBF 1.905% 1.95%

Common salt (NaCl) 70 g/l 70 g/lCaustic lye(NaOH) 0 g/l 0 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 20 g/l 20g/l

MLR: - 1:10



Dye Solution pH: -5.7Alkali pH: - 10.4

3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -Time Taken: - 196 minWater consumed: -12,397 lSoaping pH: - 7.0Final pH: - 8.0

SAMPLE


1) RFD sample: -



2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 -1.79 -0.11 -0.31 1.82 122.17F11 -1.82 -0.09 -0.29 1.84 122.17


M/c No.: - Corino 2

Process: - Plaiting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 422 kg


2) Stenter Machine : -

M/c No.: - Montex ST -2

Process: - Finish

Start time: - 7:35 p.m. End time: - 8:40 p.m.

Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 422 kg



Overfeed: - 40%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1300/1300


Final GSM: - 170

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration Quantity1 Selester 120 GPL 6.00 kg2 Smooth 90 120 GPL 6.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 0.25 kgTotal volume = 100 l

3) Compactor: -


Process: - Finish





Overfeed: - 25%

Quantity: - 432 kg

Pinning Right: - 8%

Pinning Left: -8%



Final GSM: - 174, 173



Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -


(GM/M2)/(oz./sq. Yd)ISO 3801 1977 180/5.31 180

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 180/70.87v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 177.5/69.88 175vi) Dimensional stability to



ISO 6330 2009 -3.7 -7.0

viii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 1.0% 5%ix) Bursting Strength ISO-13938-2 1999 EDCx) Pilling ISO 12945-1 4 4 @ 12600

REV


S Test Method Shade Staining on Requirements

n Change

Self Ace C N P Acr W ShadeChange

Staining


4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4


ISO 105X12-2001

4-5 3-4


ISO 105X12-2001

3-4 3

4 CF to Water ISO 105EO1-2010

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 176-180 cmRoll to Roll GSM 175-190Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation NoSkew % 14% - 15.3 % OKGrouping if any NoAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OKDead cotton OKContamination OKVertical/Horizontal lines OK







Wt. Loss: - 1.8%

P.O.: - 001093

S.O.: -43341

Customer Name: - First Step Baby Wear Pvt. Ltd.

Buyer Name: - - First Step Baby Wear

Material: - 40S Combed Plain IL (3.0mm)

Fabric: - Interlock

Process Flow

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter3. Compact

Folding




LOT NO -10

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 001093

Shade: - Transparent Yellow

Material: - 40S Combed Plain Interlock

Sort No.: - N/A

Order Quantity: - 514kg

Greige issue: - 716.13kg

Greige GSM: - 180

Required GSM: -190

Gauge: - 24

Meter/Kg: - 3.06

Diameter: - 30”



Lot No.: - 236, 88

Knit Lot No.: -N/A

Yarn Lot No.: - N/A

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 9

Fabric quality: - N/A



Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 8

Fabric quality: - N/A



Rope3:-

Rolls consumed: - 8

Fabric quality: - N/ A

Fabric form: - Open Width+ Tubular

Quantity:-91.150+150.16(of Lot No.1094)= 243.310 kg


Length: - 744.52m

Date: - 31/05/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 001093


Shade: - Transparent Yellow

Lab Dip No.: L-22180977-G


Start Time: - 10:30 a.m. End Time:-16:30p.m.

Loading: - 716 kg



Under loading: - 4.53% (To compensate for the stretching of fabric)

Dyeing Method: - Isothermal MLR: - 1:07




RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAmron HF Yellow HFGR 0.014% 0.014%Amron HF Yellow HF2GL 0.00195% 0.00195%Amron HF Blue HFBR 0.0009% 0.0009%

Common salt (NaCl) 10 g/l 10 g/l

Soda Ash(Na2CO3) 1.5 g/l 1.5g/lCaustic Lye 0.2g/l 0.2g/l


Alkali pH: - 10.5



3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): - Time Taken: - 131 minutes Water consumed: - 12,098 l Soaping pH: - 6.5 Final pH: - 5.75


1) RFD sample: -Illuminant used: - D65

BAT CIE WI BAT CIE Tint BAT TD78.07 -1.34 RR

2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 0.14 -0.1 -0.53 0.56 93.31F11 0.13 -0.1 -0.67 0.69 93.31

FINISHING:-


M/c No.: - Corino 2

Process: - Cutting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 560 kg




Process: - Finish



Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 716 kg (560+156)






Final GSM: - 175,176

Chemicals used: -


3) Compacting Machine:-

M/c No.: -Compact -3

Process: - Finish




Chain feed: - 165 cm


Pinning Left: - 8%

Pinning Right: - 8%


Machine Speed: - 16m/min


FOLDING: -

Q.A. Report: -

Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test:


i) Courses/inch ASTMD3887 2008 40ii) Wales/inch ASTMD3887 2008 36iii) Fabric Weight (GSM)

[(gm/m2)(oz./sq. yd)]ASTM D3776 2009 181/5.34 190

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 161/63.39v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 161/63.39 152vi) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - LengthAATCC 135 2004 -7.0 -9.0

vii) Dimensional stability to AATCC 135 2004 -9.0 -9.0

washing (%) - Widthviii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 1.0% 5.0%ix) Bursting Strength ASTMD3786 2008 106.9 PSIx) Pilling Resistance at 30

minutesASTMD3512 2007 3.0 2.0


Sn



Change

Staining


4.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 3.5 3.0


AATCC-8-2007

4.5 3.5


AATCC-8-2007

4.5 3.0


4.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 3.5 3.0


AATCC 15-2009

4.0 4.5 3.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 3.5 3.0

6 CF to light fastness @ 10 AFU

AATCC16EOPTION-2004

4.0 3.5

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 152-156 cmRoll to Roll GSM 170-190 (GSM low) Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation OKSkew % NOGrouping if any NOAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OKDead Cotton OKContamination OKHorizontal/Vertical Lines OK


Batch no.: - 001093

Order Quantity: - 514

Quantity packed against Greige issue: - 522.9 kg (out of 560 kg)

Quantity sold: - 522.9 kg Quantity unsold: - 00 kg


Wt. Loss: - 6.6

P.O.: - 037755

S.O.: - 21886

Customer Name: - Oceansky International Ltd

Buyer Name: - OCEAN SKY

Material: - AK11123N23NRDDKNF 26s 100% Organic Combed Cotton

Fabric: - 1x1 Rib

Process Flow


Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing


Folding



LOT NO -11

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109320037755

Shade: - Dark Denim

Material: - 26s 100% Organic Combed Cotton

Sort No.: - AK11123N23NRDDKNF



Greige GSM: - 180

Required GSM: - 210

Gauge: - 18

Meter/Kg: - 3.07

Diameter: - 30”



Lot No.: - K49644

Knit Lot No.: - RBNO3018-11-0735

Yarn Lot No.: - /6LH110034C

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 7


Fabric form:- Open Width

Quantity:- 216.000 kg

Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Rope3:-

Rolls consumed:-7




Rope4:-

Rolls consumed: - 7





Length: - 2556.4 m

Date: - 05/06/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 37755

Quantity: - 832 kg

Shade: - Dark Denim

Lab Dip No.: - OCD.62180094D


Start Time: - 12:30 p.m. End Time: -8:45.m.

Loading: - 832 kg





MLR: - 1:07




RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAmron HF Yellow HFGR 0.148% 0.1697%Amron HF Red HF2BL 0.669% 0.671%Amron HF Blue HR2D 1.88% 0.1730%

Common salt (NaCl) 70 g/l 50 g/lCaustic flakes(NaOH) 1.5 g/l 0.5 g/l (Caustic lye)Soda Ash(Na2CO3) 15 g/l 10g/l Remarks: - Salt at start

Revatol S (0.5 gpl in dye bath) – Added for fixing shade

Time taken: - 160 minutesWater consumed: - 10,648 lDye Solution pH: - 6

3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -Time Taken: - 175 minutesWater consumed: - 21,381 lSoaping pH: - 6.75Alkali pH: - 10.48Final pH: - 5.75


1) RFD sample: - SAMPLE



2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 0.57 0.25 -0.51 0.81 92.88

F11 0.57 0.28 -0.49 0.8 92.88


M/c No.: - Corino 2

Process: - Cutting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 832 kg




Process: - Finish



Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 832 kg



Overfeed: - 35%



Final GSM: - 204

Chemicals used: -


3) Compactor: -


Process: - Finish





Overfeed: - 24.2%

Quantity: - 382 kg

Pinning Right: - 60%

Pinning Left: -60%



Final GSM: - 146, 149


Chindi/ Waste: - 13.0 kg


Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -


(GM/M2)/(oz./sq. Yd)ISO 3801 1977 210/6.19 210

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 165.5/65.16v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 163/64.17 154vi) Dimensional stability to



ISO 6330 2009 -7.8 -8.0

viii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 0.4% 5%ix) Bursting Strength ISO-13938-2 1999 689.2 KPA


Sn



Change

Staining


4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/AC, N=2-3


ISO 105X12-2001

4-5 4


ISO 105X12-2001

3-4 2


4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/AC, N=2-3


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/AC, N=2-3


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4/AC, N=2-3

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Folding Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 155-157 cm 153-157 cmRoll to Roll GSM 202-220 202-220Roll to Roll Hand feel OK OKDesign & Shade OK OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation

OK OK

Roll to Roll Shade variation - SLV in roll to rollSkew % No NoGrouping if any No NoAesthetic look of fabric OK OKHairiness OK OK

Dead cotton OK OKContamination OK OKBowing - 6-8%

1m slitting line on selvage







Wt. Loss: - 11.1%

Packing Percentage: -96.2%

P.O.: - 001204(Job Work)

S.O.: - 44919

Customer Name: - First Step Baby Wear Pvt ltd

Buyer Name: - First Step Baby Wear

Material: - 40S cotton Plain Interlock

Fabric: - Interlock

Process Flow

Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter3. Compactor

Folding




LOT NO -12

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 109330001204

Shade: - Fondent Pink

Material: - 40S CTN Plain Interlock

Sort No: - N/A (Since its job work)



Greige GSM: - 185

Required GSM: - 190

Gauge: - 24

Meter/Kg: - 3.35



Ropes Prepared: - 6

Lot No.: - 3015199071

Knit Lot No.: - N/A (Since its job work)

Yarn Lot No.: - N/A (Since its job work)

Rope1:-




Rope2:-




Rope3:-




Rope4:-




Rope5:-




Rope6:-




Total Quantity: -1162 kg

Length: - 3892.7 m

Date: - 06/06/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 001204+05

Quantity: - 1162

Shade: - Fondent Pink


Loading: - 1162 kg + 190 kg = 1380kg

Under loading: - 8 %

Start time: -10:00 a.m.

End Time: - 3:55 p.m.



Dyeing method: - Isothermal

MLR: - 1:07


Total duration: - 100 min

Water consumed: - 23,046l

RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


1) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. HF Red HF2BL 0.015% 0.015%Am. HF Yellow HFGR 0.0005% 0.0005%

Common salt (NaCl) 10 g/l 10 g/lCaustic Lye 5 g/l 5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 0.2g/l 0.2g/l

Dye Solution pH: - 5-5

Alkali pH: - 10.6

Time taken: - 145 mins

Water consumed: - 12,143l

2) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): - Time Taken: - 131 mins Water consumed: - 23,322 l Soaping pH: - 5.75 Final pH: - 6.2


1) RFD sample: - SAMPLEIlluminant used: - D65


2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 0.68 1.27 0.87 1.69 81.47F11 0.74 1.35 1.07 1.87 81.47

FINISHING:-


M/c No.: - Corino 2

Process: - Cutting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 560 kg




Process: - Finish



Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 716 kg (560+156)







Chemicals used: -


3) Compacting Machine:-

M/c No.: -Compact -3

Process: - Finish




Chain feed: - 165 cm


Pinning Left: - 8%

Pinning Right: - 8%


Machine Speed: - 16m/min


FOLDING: -

Q.A. Report: -

Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -



44


36


ISO 3801 1977 194/5.70 190


160/62.99


157.5/62.01 154


ISO 6330 2009 -6.3 -8.0

vii) Dimensional stability to ISO 6330 2009 -8.0 -8.0

washing (%) - Widthviii) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 1% 5%ix) Bursting Strength ISO-13938-2 1999 782.8 KPAColour Fastness Test: -

Sn



Change

Staining


4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4


ISO 105X12-2001

4-5 4


ISO 105X12-2001

4-5 3-4


4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 154-158 cmRoll to Roll GSM 175-198Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation OKSkew % OKGrouping if any NoAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OK

30 m needle line Selvage side 21 cm, 7 cm respectively


Batch no.: - 1204


Quantity packed against Greige issue: - 1084 kg (out of 1160kg)



Wt. Loss: -6.5 %

P.O.: -028153

S.O.: - 35391

Customer Name: - Orient Craft Ltd (Khandsa)

Buyer Name: -M&S

Material: - Cotton 30s Combed+ 40D Spandex SJ


Process Flow


Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Ready For Printing

1) Corino (Slitting)2) Stenter (Gumming)


Printing

1) Rotary Printing2) Curing3) Soaping

LOT NO -13

GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 028153

Shade: - Pink Mix Print

Material: - Cotton 30s Combed+ 40D Spandex SJ

Sort No.: - AK10031G-COTTN 30S


Greige issue: -463 kg

Greige GSM: - 270

Required GSM: - 220

Gauge: - 28

Meter/Kg: - 2.61

Diameter: - 30


Ropes Prepared: - 3

Lot No.: - K49482, K49483, K49559

Knit Lot No.: - SJNO3028-11-8666, SJNO3028-11-8764, SJNO3028-11-0769


Folding

1) Quality Assurance2) Inspection3) Quality Control

Finishing

1) Stenter2) Compactor

Yarn Lot No.: - /6LH100165D, /6LH110035B

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 6




Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 6




Rope3:-

Rolls consumed: - 3

Fabric quality: - Grade A+ Grade B (1 Roll)




Length: - 1139.16 m

Date: - 08/06/2011

STENTER (HEAT SETTING) :-Shade: - Pink Mix Print



Chamber 1

Chamber 2

Chamber 3

Chamber4 Chamber 5

Chamber 6

Chamber 7

195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC

Quantity: - 535 kg



Overfeed: - 18%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1800/1800


Final GSM: - 234

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration1 RK 4 GPL2 ACA 4 GPL

Start Time: -9:10 a.m. End Time: - 10:55 a.m.

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 028153

Quantity: - 536 kg

Shade: - Pink Mix Print

Lab Dip No.: - KTV-2930


Start Time: - 10:50 p.m. End Time: -2:40 p.m. (Day 2)


Loading: - 536 kg


Theor Time: - 458 mins


MLR: - 1:07


Total duration: - 136min


RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK


2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. HF Yellow HFGR 0.0315% 0.0315%Am. HF Red HF2F 0.911% 0.911%Am. Blue HFBR 0.0152% 0.0152%

Common salt (NaCl) 30 g/l 30 g/lCaustic lye(NaOH) 0.5 g/l 0 .5g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 5g/l 5g/l

MLR: - 1:10 Time taken: - 174 minutes RFT SAMPLEWater consumed: - 6,323 lDye Solution pH: -5.7Alkali pH: - 10.35

Topping:-

Material WtAm. HF Yellow HFGR 17 gmAm. HF Red HF2F 488 gmAm. Blue HFBR 89 gmCommon salt (NaCl)Caustic lye(NaOH) 35 kgSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 35 kg

3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -Time Taken: - 148 minWater consumed: -12,166 lFINAL SAMPLE

Soaping pH: - 6.7Final pH: - 5.75


1) RFD sample: -



2) Dyed sample: -


75.33 42.55 103.10

RFT 51.68 48.08 353.86Bulk sample 50.83 48.25 354.08

3) DLCH: -


D65 0.54 0.03 0.01 0.55 91.79F11 0.55 -0.04 0.08 0.56 91.79

READY FOR PRINTING:-1. Corino Slitting Machine: -

M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Plaiting



Pressure: -




2. Stenter Machine : -


Process: - Cutting & Gumming



Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 485 kg (028153+54)



Overfeed: - 38%



Final GSM: - 215

3. Stenter Machine : -


Process: - Drying



Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 465 kg



Overfeed: - 38%



Final GSM: - 215

PRINTING:-1) ROTARY PRINTING: -

Machine No.: - Reggiani Rotary Printing Machine- 1

Design No.: - 2930/9

Head No. Rod Serial No. Colour2 16 A Black3 20 B Dark green4 16 C Violet6 16 D Orange7 20 E Light Green8 20 F Pink9 16 G Blue10 16 H Yellow11 16 I Grey

Repeat: - 641/ 60

Meter: - 1750

Speed: - 15 m/min

2) CURING: -Machine no.: - Arioli Blue Pager - 1Temperature: - 1400 CSpeed: - 40 m/minLoop no: - 97Dwell time: - 5 min

SAMPLE3) WASHING: -

Process: - Peroxide Washing

M/c speed: - 35 m/min

Effective/ Non- Effective: - Effective

Quantity: - 1500 m



FINISHING:-1) Stenter Machine : -


Process: - Finish

Start time: - 9:00 a.m. (14/06/2011)


Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 485 kg



Overfeed: - 35%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1400/1400


Final GSM: - 207

Chemicals used: -

S. No.


1 Megasil 20 GPL 2.00 kg

2 Smooth 90 20 GPL 2.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 0.25 kgTotal volume = 100 l

2) Compactor: -


Process: - Finish





Overfeed: - 12%

Quantity: - 400 kg (1st shift) & 20 kg (2nd shift)

Pinning Right: - 8%

Pinning Left: -8%



Final GSM: - 217/224



Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -



68


32


M&S P65 227/6.69 220


176/69.29


172.5/67.91


M&S P1A (MSW (III) )

-2.2 -5+-2


M&S P1A (MSW (III) )

-5.0 -7+-2

viii) Spirality M&S P1B 2 MM 20 MM


Sn



Change

Staining

1 CF to Washing M&S C4A@500C

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4


M&S C8- 4-5 4

3 CF to Water M&S C6- 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 44 CF to Perspiration

(Acidic)M&S C7- 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4


M&S C7- 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

6 CF to Oxidative Bleach Damage

M&S C10A- 4 3-4 ON T0NE

7 CF to Hydrolysis of Reactive Dyes

M&S C11- 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 171-174 cmRoll to Roll GSM 207-248Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation NoSkew % OKGrouping if any NOAesthetic look of fabric OKHairiness OKDead cotton OKContamination OK

Vertical/Horizontal lines OK

PACKAGING AND DISPATCHING: -Batch no.: - 028153 Order Quantity: - 390 kg



No. of rolls packed: - 15 Wt. Loss: - 6.8%

P.O.: - 028478

S.O.: - 43009

Customer Name: - Shakthi Knitting Limited

Buyer Name: - H & M

Material: - 26s Combed Organic Cotton

Fabric: - 2 Tuck Pique

Process Flow


Dyeing


Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1. Corino2. Stenter


LOT NO -14

Folding



GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 09310028478

Shade: - Fresh Vanilla

Material: - 26s Combed Organic Cotton 2 Tuck Pique

Sort No.: - NA (Outside Knitting)

Order Quantity: - 1,004 kg


Greige GSM: - 167

Required GSM: - 210

Gauge: - 24

Meter/Kg: - 2.45

Diameter: - 26


Ropes Prepared: - 6

Lot No.: - K49800

Knit Lot No.: - NA (Outside Knitting)

Yarn Lot No.: - NA (Outside Knitting)

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 6




Rope4:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 6




Rope5:-

Rolls consumed: - 7




Rope3:-

Rolls consumed: - 6




Rope6:-

Rolls consumed: - 6




Total Quantity: - 1,290.55 kg

Length: - 3161.72 m

Date: - 13/06/2011

DYEING:-

P.O.: - 28478

Quantity: - 1,004 kg

Shade: - Fresh Vanilla

Lab Dip No.: - OCL-22180069’D


Start Time: - 6:25 p.m. End Time: -12:40 a.m.

Loading: - 1,290 kg

Under loading: - 14 %




MLR: - 1:07




RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Hardness: - OK

Before dyeing pH: - 7 SAMPLE

2) Dyeing:-

Dye recipe: -

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAm. HF Yellow HFGR 0.088% 0.088%Am. HF Red HF2BL 0.0017% 0.0017%Am. HF Blue HFBR 0.0053% 0.0053%

Common salt (NaCl) 10 g/l 10 g/lCaustic flakes (NaOH) 0.2 g/l 0.2 g/l (caustic lye)Soda Ash(Na2CO3) 5 g/l 5g/l

Time taken: - 145 minutesWater consumed: - 11,245 lDye Solution pH: - 6.31

3) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -Time Taken: - 131 minutesWater consumed: - 21,597 lSoaping pH: - 6.2Alkali pH: - 10Final pH: - 6

SAMPLE


1) RFD sample: -



2) Dyed sample: -


3) DLCH: -

Illuminant DL DC DH DE Strength (%)D65 0.13 -0.63 0.18 0.67 94.99F11 0.18 -0.61 0.36 0.73 94.99


M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Cutting



Pressure: -






Process: - Finish



Chamber Temp.: -





Overfeed: - 50%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1000/1000


Final GSM: - 209

Chemicals used: -



Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Shrink: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Chemical: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -

S.N. Test Method Result Requirementi) Fabric weight[GSM]

(GM/M2)/(oz./sq. Yd)ISO 3801 1977 220/6.49 210

ii) Original Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 197/77.56iii) Usable Width (cm/inch) ASTM D3774 2008 19.5/76.57 190iv) Dimensional stability to ISO 6330 2009 -2.5 -8.0

washing (%) - Lengthv) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - WidthISO 6330 2009 -7.8 -8.0

vi) Spirality AATCC 179 2004 0.4% 5%vii) Bursting Strength ISO-13938-2 1999 587.4 KPA


Sn



Change

Staining


4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4


ISO 105X12-2001

4-5 4


ISO 105X12-2001

4-5 3


4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4


ISO105 EO4-2008

4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4

Quality Control: -

Department Remarks Quality Control RemarksRoll to Roll Width 189-191 cmRoll to Roll GSM 211-220Roll to Roll Hand feel OKDesign & Shade OKCenter to Selvage Shade Variation OKRoll to Roll Shade variation OKSkew % OKGrouping if any OKAesthetic look of fabric Some holes and yarn patta on 17 rollsHairiness OKDead cotton OKContamination OKVertical/Horizontal lines OK


Batch no.: - 28478


Quantity packed against Greige issue: - 997.30 kg (out of 1101 kg greige issue)

Quantity sold: - 577.60 kg (in Grade A) + 364.7 kg (in Grade B)

Quantity unsold: - 55 kg No. of rolls packed: - 35 rolls

Wt. Loss: - 9.4%

P.O.: -037788

S.O.: - 22198

Customer Name: - MAS Active (Pvt) Ltd

Buyer Name: - MAS Active (Pvt) Ltd

Material: - 60s Cotton+ 75/72D+40D Spandex Plated SJ

Fabric: - Plated Single Jersey

Process Flow


Dyeing

1) RFD (Pre-Treatment)2) Dyeing3) Auto Wash Off (After

Dyeing Treatment)

Finishing

1) Corino (Slitting)2) Stenter (Gumming)3) Compactor


LOT NO -15

Folding

1) Quality Assurance2) Inspection3) Quality Control


GREIGE:-

P.O.: - 037788

Shade: - Black

Material: - 60s Cotton+ 75/72D+40D Spandex Plated SJ

Sort No.: - AK13967


Greige issue: -276 kg

Greige GSM: - 230

Required GSM: - 190

Gauge: - 24

Meter/Kg: - 3.61

Diameter: - 30


Ropes Prepared: - 2

Lot No.: - K49698


Yarn Lot No.: - /3LH1100003

Rope1:-

Rolls consumed: - 5




Rope2:-

Rolls consumed: - 5





Length: - 996.36 m

Date: - 08/06/2011

STENTER (HEAT SETTING) :-Shade: - Black



Chamber1 Chamber2 Chamber3 Chamber4 Chamber5 Chamber6 Chamber7195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC 195oC

Quantity: - 276 kg



Overfeed: - 15%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1800/1800


Final GSM: - 210

Chemicals used: -

S. No. Material Concentration1 HFC 4 GPL2 ACA 2 GPL

Start Time: -12:00 p.m. End Time: - 12:55 p.m.

DYEING:-P.O.: - 037788

Quantity: - 276 kg

Shade: - Black

Lab Dip No.: - D-92181374-A

Machine No.: - 500 – 5(Reduction Clear) & 500-1 (Cotton Dyeing)

Start Time: - 6:50 a.m. End Time: -8:30 p.m. (Day 2)

Under loading: - 44.8%

Loading: - 276kg


Theor Time: - 690 mins

1) Dyeing for Polyester(Without Neutral):-Start Time: - 6:50 a.m.End Time: - 10:30 p.m.Dye Recipe:-

POLYESTER DYED SAMPLE (RFT)

Topping Recipe:-

Material recipeCoralene YELLOW BROWN 0.54%Coralene RUBINE XF2G 0.30%Coralene Black XF 0.8%

Time taken: - 207 minutes Water consumed: - 5,821 lPeroxide: - NilAbsorbency: - OKHardness: - OKDye Solution pH: -3.8Topping Recipe:-

Material 1st time 2nd timeCoralene RUBINE XF2G 1.00 gm 2.80 gmCoralene Black XF 1.100 gm 2.80 gm

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeCoralene YELLOW BROWN

0.27% 0.27%

Coralene RUBINE XF2G 0.25% 0.20%Coralene Black XF 4.00% 4.00%

Caustic lye(NaOH) 3.00 g/l 3.000 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 0.0 g/l 0.0g/l


Total duration: - 98 min POLYESTER DYE

Water consumed: - 4,056 lts. SAMPLE (TOPPING)

RFD sample:

Peroxide: - Nil

Absorbency: - OK

Soaping pH: - 6.3

Final pH: - 6

3) Cotton Dyeing:-Start Time: - 1:10 p.m.End Time: - 8:30 p.m.Dye Recipe:-

Material Lab recipe Bulk recipeAmron YELLOW HFGR 0.2% 0.11%Amron RED HF4BL 0.55% 0.45%Amron Black HR2D 3.5% 3.8%

Common salt (NaCl) 70 g/l 70 g/lCaustic Flakes(NaOH) 1.5 g/l 2.5 g/lSoda Ash(Na2CO3) 5 g/l 20g/l

Topping Recipe:-

Material recipeAmron YELLOW HFGR 0.13%Amron RED HF4BL 0.2%Amron Black HR2D 3.5%

Time taken: - 189minutes Water consumed: - 3,255 lPeroxide: - NilAbsorbency: - OKHardness: - 50 ppmDye Solution pH: -6.51

Alkali pH: - 10.5

4) After- Dyeing Treatment (Wash-off): -Time Taken: - 196 minWater consumed: -7,920 l FINAL

DYED SAMPLE

Soaping pH: - 6.3Final pH: - 6


1) RFD sample: -



2) Dyed sample: -


30.14 13.65 259.13

Bulk sample 32.21 5.41 107.53

3) DLCH: -


MsTL84-10 -0.19 0.52 -0.47 0.73 101.02MsD65-10 -0.12 0.08 -0.45 0.47 101.02MsA-10 -0.15 0.09 -0.27 0.33 101.02


M/c No.: - Corino 1

Process: - Cutting



Pressure: -


Quantity: - 276 kg




Process: - Finish



Chamber Temp.: -


Quantity: - 422 kg



Overfeed: - 40%

RPM / Fan Speed: - 1300/1300


Final GSM: - 170

Chemicals used: -

S. No.


1 Ageis 5772 50 GPL 10.00 kg2 Passareal 25 GPL 5.00 kg3 Acetic Acid 0.5 GPL 0.10 kg

Total volume = 200 l


Shade: - ok

Width (cm): - ok

GSM: - ok

Shrinkage: - ok

Handfeel: - ok

Lab Test Report: -

Physical test: -



60


32


ADIDAS-4.19 188/5.54 190

iv) Original Width (cm/inch) ADIDAS-4.21 176/69.29v) Usable Width (cm/inch) ADIDAS-4.21 166.5/65.55 162.6vi) Dimensional stability to

washing (%) - LengthADIDAS-4.03 -2.5 -8.0


ADIDAS-4.03 -5.0 -8.0

viii) Spirality ADIDAS-4.04 1.0 5.0%ix) Pilling Resistance@30 min. ADIDAS-4.07 3.5FACE

SIDE3.0

x) Length-Cycle Load@44N ADIDAS-4.27xi) Length-Stretch% ADIDAS-4.27 74.0 >=20.0xii) Length-Recovery% ADIDAS-4.27 90.54 >=85.00xiii) Width-Stretch% ADIDAS-4.27 53.0 >=60.00xiv) Width-Recovery% ADIDAS-4.27 85.85 >=85.00xv) Fabric Wash Weight [GSM]

(GM/M2) (oz/Sq.yd)ASTM D3776 197/5.81


Sn



Change

Staining

1 CF to Washing ADIDAS-5.01-

4-5 3 4 3 3 4-5 3-4 4-5 4


ADIDAS-5.04-

4-5 4


ADIDAS-5.04-

3

4 CF to Water ADIDAS-5.03-

4-5 4 4 4 4 4 4 4-5 4


ADIDAS-5.02-

4-5 4 4 4 4 4 4 4-5 4


ADIDAS-5.02-

4-5 4 4 4 4 4 4 4-5 4

Quality Control: - Under Progress

PACKAGING AND DISPATCHING: - Under Progress

CONCLUSIONThus, from our study of the wet processing of knitted fabrics, we observed and learnt the following things: -

Wet Processing for different types of knitted fabrics:

There are different types of knitted fabrics with different knitted structures or different knitting yarns like Single Jersey, Rib, Interlock, Pique, Single Jersey Lycra, Viscose, Melange, Modal etc. They can be mercerized or unmercerized, printed or non-printed, regular finish or special finish. There can be mixed yarns like Poly-Cotton (PC fabric), Cotton-Spandex (Lycra Blend), Melange etc. All the fabrics have different process routes, which are described as below: -

Mercerized (100% Cotton knitted fabric)

Process flow

Lot making/Stitching/Marking and reversing

Mercerizing

Slitting/Squeezing on Corino slitting

Finishing on Stenter

Open width compacting

Testing

Inspection

Packing

Stacking in finished store

Dispatch

Cotton and viscose fabric (unmercerised)

Process flow

Lot making

Scouring/ Bleaching/ Dyeing

Squeezing on Santa Stretch

Drying/ relaxing on Fong’s dryer

Tubular width compacting on Santa Stretch

Testing

Inspection

Packing

Stacking in finishing store

Dispatch

Cotton/Lycra printed fabric

Process flow

Lot making

Pad heat setting on Stenter

Re-lot making

Dyeing

Open in Corino

Drying and gumming and cutting

Printing

Finish on Stenter

Compact if required

Testing

Inspection

Packing


Dispatch

Cotton printing

Process flow

Lot making

Dyeing

Slit open on Corino

Gumming on Stenter

Printing

Finish on Stenter

Compact if required

Testing

Inspection

Packing


Dispatch

Polyester/viscose &polyester/cotton

Process flow

Lot making

Heat setting on Stenter

Re-lot making/ Tube making

Double dyeing

Slit open/Squeezing on Corino

Finishing on Stenter

Testing

Inspection

Packing


Dispatch

Cotton/Lycra and Viscose/Lycra

Process flow

Lot making/ Stitching/ Marking

PAD head setting on Stenter

Re-lot making

Dyeing

Slitting/ Squeezing on Corino

Drying and finishing on Stenter

Compaction on Santo Compactor

Quality parameter testing

Inspection

Packing

Stacking on finishing store

Dispatch

Fabrics that require Gumming & Heat setting:

As mentioned above, Lycra blends and Viscose require gumming and heat setting. Since these types of fabrics are dimensionally unstable and can get stretched while processing, so to make the fabric stable and prevent it from unnecessary stretch, it is heat set. Moreover, Lycra blends and Viscose tend to curl from the edges a lot, so gumming is done to prevent it prevent it from curling at the edges. Gumming is done using PVA, in Compact Machine. The remaining edge beyond the gummed area is cut using an edge cutter in the compact machine itself.

Benefits of Compacting:

Compacting is a part of finishing which helps in increasing moisture and hence, the GSM of the fabric. It may also be done to rectify the shrinkage, stretch, skewing and bowing of the fabric. After Stenter, the fabric is sent to the Quality Assurance Department and if it is found non-conforming to any of the above mentioned specifications then the fabric is compacted. Moreover, compacting is compulsorily done for Lycra blends and Viscose for gumming.

Advantage of finding LCH of a fabric:

LCH stands for Lightness–Chroma–Hue. Every buyer that sends order has a standard LCH for every ordered shade. The shade of the dyed fabric needs to conform to the standard LCH for that particular shade within tolerance limit; otherwise it may be rejected on the grounds of shade failure. Hence, LCH is a tool to measure the shade and compare it to the specified requirements. Datacolor Spectrometer is used to measure the LCH of the dyed fabric. It can also be used to measure the whiteness index of Greige and RFD samples.

Adjusting the fabric GSM:

The buyer specifies the required GSM of the fabric. Accordingly, the fabric is knitted with GSM lower than the required GSM so that the required GSM can be met during the processing. The GSM of the fabric increases after dyeing. So the GSM of the fabric is adjusted during the finishing process by adjusting the overfeed percentage on the Stenter machine. To adjust the overfeed, the chain width of the fabric is increased or decreased as compared to the width of the fabric. The more is the overfeed, the more is the GSM of the fabric. Since the moisture of the fabric reduces by 10-12% after passing through the Stenter, it decreases the GSM of the fabric. Hence, the overfeed is generally kept higher so that on an average, the GSM of the fabric increases after passing through the Stenter. Usually, the GSM of the fabric conforms to the required GSM after Stenter processing. If not, then it is compacted to increase the GSM by 2-3% by increasing the moisture of the fabric.

Defects that can occur during dyeing and handling of the fabric:

There are various defects that can occur at various stages during knitting as well as processing of the fabric. The defects that occur during Dyeing and Handling of the fabric are as follows:

The dyed fabric can become patchy because of the following reasons:1. After unloading from dyeing machine, the fabric if kept unprocessed in

the trolley, in wet condition, for a long time.2. Before dyeing, if mercerized fabric is kept undyed in the trolley for more

than two hours.3. If the fabric fails to open properly (curls at the edges) during dyeing in

the machine. The fabric may develop crease marks on its surface, which is one of the

most critical problems during processing. The following are some of the reasons for this problem:1. After unloading from dyeing machine, the fabric if kept unprocessed in

the trolley, in wet condition, for a long time.2. During finishing, if the fabric remains wrinkled at some places, these

wrinkles get converted into permanent creases. The fabric may get stained with oil, grease etc. due to mishandling of the

operators. Fabric such as Viscose or Lycra blends may develop big holes near edges

due to mishandling while pinning in the Stenter and Compactor.

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SAMPLESOF

REFERENCES

Documents

Processing of knitted fabric