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Smart TextilesNew materials for textile industry

C.Carfagna

Department of Materials and Production Engineering, University of Naples, Piazzale Tecchio 80, 80125 Naples, Italye.mail:carfagna@unina.it

Institute of Polymer Chemistry and Technology (C.N.R.)Pozzuoli – Napoli – Via Campi Flegreie.mail:director@ictp.cnr.it

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Three new appeals for textile product

Light weight

Medical application

sensitivity

Composite function

Soil resistance

De-odor

Thermo insulation

Anti bacteria

Elasticity

Thermal resistance

resistant

Anti static

Health Safety

Comfort

＋＋Basic function

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The developing focus of each European country is as follows:Italy and France are focusing on innovation; emphasizing high quality and superior brand image; Germany and Switzerland are focusing on high-tech technical textile and textile equipments. Besides, every country pays attention on environmental friendly textile, clothing science （ i.e. establishes new evaluation system or new standard ）… etc, and emphasizes on high value added product or personalized product.

The recent research focus of textile technology lay in the application of nano technology in textile, the application of biotech in textile, high-tech integrated smart wear (wearable motherboard), application of PCM, smart textiles, …etc。

R&D trend of textile industry in R&D trend of textile industry in developed countries developed countries －－Developing focus of EUDeveloping focus of EU

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Intelligent Textiles?

Phase Change Materials

Shape Memory Materials

Chromic Materials

Electronic/Conductive Textiles

Functional textiles/cosmetotextile

“the ability to adapt to the environment, either by making a change in oneself or by changing the environment or

finding a new one (…)”Encyclopaedia Britannica

•They are materials that react to impulses without the need for us to control them

•They are able to respond to its environment

•In garment they react to impulses coming from outside to inside

•They react automatically to some kind of stimuli

What is considered “intelligence” ?

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Intelligent textiles are fibers and fabrics with a significant and reproducible automatic change

of properties due to defined enviroment influences

Other textiles that are more passive can be called high performance textiles. Microfibers are very passive and waterproof, but at the same time

permeable to water vapour

Innovative Materials and Textiles TechnologiesMicroencapsulation in fiber

PHASE CHANGE MATERIALS (PCMs) are usually mixtures of paraffin waxes. If outside is warmer PCMs absorb external heat and melt (solid/liquid phase

change), refreshing the body they are in contact with.

On the contrary, core paraffin freeze (liquid/solid phase change), releasing heat to the body, when outside is cooler.

The innovative aspects refer to the application of microencapsulation technology for the introduction of functional additives in polymeric and natural

fibres.

Aloe Vera Ginseng Ginkigo biloba Asiatic centella

Centro Regionale di CompetenzaNuove Tecnologie

per le Attività Produttive

Cosmetic products are plant natural extracts microencapsulated in a biodegradable polymer shell. They can be introduced in fibres to obtain cosmetic

textiles suitable for personal care.

Regione Campania

Università di Salerno

Università di Napoli

CNR-Istituto di Chimica e Tecnologia dei Polimeri

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Phase Change Material (PCM)

SolidPCM temperature is lower

than freezing point

LiquidPCM temperature is higher

than melting point

Heat is absorbed

LiquidPCM temperature is higher

than melting point

SolidPCM temperature is lower

than freezing point

Heat is liberated

These materials store, release or absorb heat as they oscillate between solid and liquid form, giving off heat as they change to a solid state and absorbing it as they return to a liquid state.PCMs can be incorporated within fibers or foams, or may be coated into fabrics.The incorporation of PCMs within a fiber requires first that the paraffin-PCM is microencapsulated.

In order to produce a microencapsulated PCM, some of the following criteria had to be met:• particle size• uniformity of particle size• stability to mechanical action and chemicals• core-to-shell ratio, with PCM content as high as possible.

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- SPRAY COATING -

uncoated fabric

coated fabric

SPRAY COATING

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No PCM fabric PCM fabric

Thermal characterization of fabric

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Functional textiles/Cosmetotextiles

Odour impeding finishingThe hydrophobic cavities of the β cyclodextrin molecules are able to absorb and store smoke, sweat and odours from the environment

Anti-bacterial

chitosan, derived from crostaceans shell, shows some interesting properties:• Fungicidal effect• Biological degradability• No toxicity• Wash resistance

Inorganic complexescontaining Ag+: metallic ionsinterrupt critical functions ofthe microorganisms

Natural substances:

Cosmetic agents (Aloe Vera, Asiatic Centella,

Ginseng) are released on the skin through microcapsules

insertedonto fabrics or by fibers

themselves when opportunely spinned

Comfort and skin care

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..additivation of PA6 fibers through a cosmetic oil..JOJOBA OIL was added by means of

a nanopowder filler to control the mixing process

microcapsulesworking as vectors

Why jojoba oil ?

It's a chemically waxy ester that is derived from the desert plant Simmondsia Chinensis.The physical properties of jojoba oil are: high viscosity, high flash and fire point, high dielectric constant, high stability and low volatility. Its composition is little affected by temperatures up to 300°C. Jojoba oil contains straight- chained C20 and C22 fatty acids and alcohols and two unsaturated bonds, which make the oil susceptible to many different types of chemical manipulations. The extracted oil is relatively pure, non-toxic, biodegradable, and resistant to rancidity. It is smooth and non-greasy and has the closest similarity to sebum, our own natural skin oil. It's balancing and soothing properties make it excellent for skin care, hair care and skin nourishment. Jojoba is rich in Vitamin E giving it a very long shelf life.

CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)m-COO-(CH2)n-CH=CH-(CH2)7-CH3m=7-12; n=8-13

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The correct selection of modified clay is essential to ensure effective penetration of the polymer or its precursor into the interlayer spacing of the clay and result in the desired exfoliated or intercalated product. Indeed, further development of compatibiliser chemistry is undoubtedly the key to expansion of this nanocomposite technology beyond the systems where success has been achieved to date. Polymer can be incorporated either as thepolymeric species itself by melt blending, for example extrusion, or via the monomer, which is polymerised in situ to give the corresponding polymer-clay nanocomposite.Both thermosets and thermoplastics have been incorporated into nanocomposites.

NANOSTRUCTURED MATERIALS

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XRD NANOMER® I.28 with JOJOBA OIL

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Blending of oil and nanofiller

Jojoba oil Nanofiller

(CaCO3 or NANOMER® I.28)

+

Mechanical mixing

Nylon 6 Nylon 6 (pellets)(pellets)

NANOCOMPOSITES containing 1.5 wt% ,3.5 wtNANOCOMPOSITES containing 1.5 wt% ,3.5 wt%, 5 wt%,7 wt% e 8.5 wt% nanofiller-oil%, 5 wt%,7 wt% e 8.5 wt% nanofiller-oil

Melt mixing

paste oil/nanofiller +

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

0.8

0.9

1.0

1.1

1.2

1.3

1.4

1.5

1.6

1.7

1.8

1.9

2.0

Abs

orba

nce

1000 2000 3000 4000

Wavenumbers (cm-1)

-0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

2.0

2.2

Abso

rbanc

e

1000 2000 3000 4000

Wavenumbers (cm-1)

Jojoba oil spectrum

FTIR spectrum of nylon/nanofiller blend

Ester stretching peak (1740 cm-1)

No peaks in the region of ester stretching peak of jojoba oil

Nanocomposites

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0.05

0.10

0.15

0.20

0.25

0.30

0.35

0.40

0.45

0.50

0.55

0.60

0.65

0.70

0.75

0.80

0.85

Abs

orba

nce

1400 1600 1800 2000 2200

Wavenumbers (cm-1)

Comparison between PA6 blends with 8,5 wt% CACO3 or NANOMER® I.28related to jojoba oil signal

FTIR characterization of nanocomposites

0.20

0.25

0.30

0.35

0.40

0.45

0.50

0.55

0.60

0.65

0.70

Abs

orba

nce

1600 1800 2000

Wavenumbers (cm-1)

Blend PA6+8,5 wt% nanomer® I.28-jojoba oil

Blend PA6+3,5 wt% nanomer® I.28-jojoba oil

Blend PA6+1,5 wt% nanomer® I.28-jojoba oil

Blend PA6+ nanomer® I.28

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-0,1

0

0,1

0,2

0,3

0,4

0,5

0,6

-2 0 2 4 6 8

FTIR calibration curve

no

rmal

ize

d a

bso

rba

nce

organoclay experimental wt%

Theorical organoclay wt%

Experimental organoclay wt%

by TGA

1,5 1

3,5 3,3

5 4,1

7 5,5

8,5 7,1

FTIR characterization of nanocomposites

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0.02

0.04

0.06

0.08

0.10

0.12

0.14

0.16

0.18

0.20

0.22

0.24

0.26

0.28

0.30

0.32

0.34

Abs

orba

nce

1700 1800

Wavenumbers (cm-1)

0.00

0.05

0.10

0.15

0.20

0.25

0.30

0.35

0.40

Abs

orba

nce

1700 1800

Wavenumbers (cm-1)

Blend 8,5 wt% nanomer®I.28- jojoba oil

Blend 3,5 wt% nanomer®I.28-jojoba oil

Desorption time in solvent

0 h 4 h

2 h 26 h

Fast release

Slow release

NANOCOMPOSITES : additive release

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PA6+ 3,5wt% nanjojPA6+ 5wt% nanjojPA6+ 7wt% nanjojPA6+ 8,5wt% nanjoj

MECHANICAL PROPERTIES

-0,02

0

0,02

0,04

0,06

0,08

0,1

-0,5 0 0,5 1 1,5 2 2,5 3 3,5

stress strain curves PA6 nanofibers

ten

sil

e s

tre

ss

(GP

a)

tensile strain (mm)

Sample

filler cont

(wt%)

Young’s

modulus (GPa)

Elongation

at break (%)

Ultimate tensile

strength (MPa)

3,5

0,909 ± 0,097 234 ± 19 50 ± 3

5

1,66 ±

0,095 237 ± 25 54 ± 4

7

1,60 ±

0,102 223 ± 31 53 ± 5

8,5

2,14 ±

0,402 236 ± 9 66 ± 8

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Additivation of PA6 by means of jojoba oil microcapsules

Synthesis by interfacial polycondensation of jojoba oil filled microcapsules

Microcapsules characterization (DSC,TGA,SEM)

Additivation of microcapsules onto polyamide matrix and blends characterization

Spinning tests

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Interfacial polycondensationReaction of two monomers (amine and acid chloride) at the interface between two immiscible liquid phases to form a film of polymer.When the aqueous phase and the organic phase are emulsified to form an Oil/Water dispersion, the reactants diffuse together and quickly polymerize to form a thin coating which encapsulates the disperse phase.

Active agent

Polyamide membrane

Reacting monomers:

examethylene diamine (HMDA) NH2-(CH2)6-NH2 aqueous phase terephthaloyl dichloride (TDC) COCl- -COCl organic phase

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Synthesis of microcapsules

Steps:

1) Dispersion of oil in water

2) Ultrasonic irradiation

3) Polycondensation reaction

Ultra Turrax Sovirel reactor

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SEM characterization of microcapsules

HMDA- TDC- JOJOBA OIL without ultrasonication

HMDA- TDC- JOJOBA OIL with ultrasonication

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Blends of PA6 with microcapsules

Pure PA6

PA6+10%microcaps

SEM observations

PA6+5% microcaps

Thermal characterization

Temperature (°C)

Heat

flow

(W

/g)

PA6+5% microcaps ΔΗ= 2,9 J/gPA6+10% microcaps ΔΗ= 5,5 J/g

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Conclusions

1- jojoba oil can be added to polyamide to spin fibers

2 – the presence of oil does not affect thermal stability of

polymer

3 – microencapsulation is a useful tool to include jojoba oil

into polymer matrix

Perspectives

1- evaluation of desorption of oil from fibers

2 – manufacturing of a cosmetofabric

3 – evaluation of the effect of jojoba oil release on the skin