10 CHAP FORTWILLIAM:WESTLAYOUT - Cordee...roller-coaster of tarmac threading an unlikely passage along the north shore of Loch Arkaig into the interior, and serving as a jumping-off

Fort William

the centre and the waterfront, presentingthe driver with a rear view of somespectacularly ugly buildings. The town’ssuperb position, however, and efforts tobrand itself the ‘Outdoor Capital of theUK’ mean it is packed with businessescatering for walkers, with a growingcommunity of guides and instructorsoffering every outdoor activity under thesun (or rain!).

The town has good public transportwith regular trains on the dramatic WestHighland Line, as well as coaches fromGlasgow which head on to Skye orInverness. Taking the train to Mallaig orsouth across Rannoch Moor is a great

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Ben NevisCarn Mor Dearg 385

Aonach BeagAonach Mor 390

Stob BanMullach nan Coirean 394

The Ring of Steall:An GearanachStob Coire a’ChairnAm BodachSgurr a’ Mhaim 400

Sgor GaibhreCarn Dearg 403

Beinn na Lap 408

Gulvain 4107

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2

1 Sgurr ThuilmSgurr nan Coireachan 412

Sron a’ Choire GhairbhMeall na Teanga 416

Sgurr na CicheGarbh Chioch Mhor Sgurr nan Coireachan 418

Sgurr Mor 424

Gairich 428

GleouraichSpidean Mialach 432

Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich 434

Luinne BheinnMeall Buidhe 439

Ladhar Bheinn 444

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At the foot of Britain’s highest mountain,Fort William is the natural base for anyonetackling the Ben or any of the Munrosstretching from Glencoe to Invergarry oras far as Creag Meagaidh to the east. Asthe finale of the West Highland Way andalso the start of the Great Glen Way toInverness, there are always groups of footsore walkers tottering round theMorrisons supermarket here, luggingoutsize rucksacks as they try to agree on provisions.

Despite its fine setting, stretched outalong the banks of Loch Linnhe, FortWilliam is blighted by the busy A82 dual-carriageway bypass which runs between

Fort

Wil

liam

The CIC Hut and Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis

10_CHAP_FORTWILLIAM:WESTLAYOUT 5/11/12 10:34 Page 378

option for a day off – however, theJacobite steam train which strikes a HarryPotteresque pose as it crosses theimpressive Glenfinnan Viaduct does getheavily booked up. Also on offer for a restday are seal trips and cruises on LochLinnhe, canoeing and other watersportson the Caledonian Canal and nearby LochOich, or testing your bravery and boneson the world-championship mountainbike trails at Nevis Range. The Range alsohas skiing and snowboarding in thewinter and a high-level zip wire course inthe summer. Those needing a proper restfor aching limbs can seek out theswimming pool with sauna and steamroom on the north side of town, or trysome retail therapy along the high streetwhich is packed with outdoor gear shops.

As you’d expect there are tons of placesto stay. Of note is the massive Glen NevisCampsite, beautifully situated in the glen,a 3.5km walk from the town centre. Oftenpacked in the summer, it has excellentfacilities (including, on occasion, Handel’sWater Music piped into the showers) andzero-tolerance of rowdy groups. Thenearby SYHA can get very noisy and busyin the summer, as can the independentoptions in Fort William itself and atnearby Corpach. There are B&Bs to suitevery budget as well as self-catering andhotels, but despite the plentifulaccommodation it can be hard to findlast-minute options in high summer.

Filling that hungry stomach is also not a

problem with many cafés, pubs andrestaurants. Of note is Nico’s fish and chipshop on the High Street where you can sitin and will always be served with a smile.The Grog and Gruel is perhaps the pick ofthe pubs, run by the owners of theClachaig Inn in Glencoe and providingreliable and large-portioned fare. Moreupmarket options include the Crannog,which specialises in seafood, jutting outinto Loch Linnhe on the old pier. At theother end of the scale, the cheap andcheerful café in Morrisons, near the trainstation, is always an option and opensearly for breakfast.

Glenfinnan and the Road to the IslesThe road leading onwards from FortWilliam to Mallaig passes through classicWest Highland scenery, with mountains,forests, rugged coastline and sandybeaches. This huge chunk of theHighlands stretches beautifully for milesout to the mainland’s most westerly pointat Ardnamurchan, but contains only threeMunros, all east of the Road to the Isles.Two of these are set back beyond thespectacular viaduct at Glenfinnan, whereBonnie Prince Charlie first unfurled hisstandard at the beginning of the ill-fatedJacobite rebellion of 1745. A monumentcommemorating this enjoys a superboutlook along Loch Shiel, and the tinyvillage here does offer some facilities withtwo hotels and a hostel set in old railwaycarriages beside the West Highland Line.

Further north the landscape becomesincreasingly rugged with only a tinyroller-coaster of tarmac threading anunlikely passage along the north shore ofLoch Arkaig into the interior, and servingas a jumping-off point for a couple ofMunro epics.

Invergarry and Glen GarryLike Spean Bridge, Invergarry has one ofthose strategic positions from which youcan easily be off and away up to theMunros in several different directions. It sits where Glen Garry reaches the GreatGlen; a lonely single-track road makes atortuous course up by Loch Quoich before terminating at Kinlochhourn,starting point for the walk-in to Knoydartfor many.

The Invergarry Hotel is always a popularport of call and the Drynachan B&B is alsoa reliable walker-friendly option, whilstpart way up the single-track itself is theisolated Tomdoun Inn – once on the mainroute to Skye but bypassed since thehydro-electric schemes of the ’60s floodedmany of the glens. For those on a tighterbudget, the independent Invergarry Lodgehostel is on the side road to Mandally,whilst the Great Glen Hostel is beside theA82 at Laggan.

KnoydartWith no road access to link it to theoutside world, Knoydart is the remotestinhabited corner of mainland Scotland.There are two main options for climbingthe spectacular peaks of this area, withovernight stays either at Barrisdale Bay onLoch Hourn or in Inverie. Home to most ofthe peninsula’s inhabitants and facilities,Inverie is easily accessible from Mallaig byboat, whereas Barrisdale involves anarduous hike from Kinlochhourn,although it is also possible to get a boathere from Arnisdale.

Accommodation at Barrisdale is limited to camping, or the estate bothy;nominal fees are paid to the ghillie in the mornings. Inverie by contrast has achoice of facilities, including several B&Bs,a small shop, a superb pub in The OldForge, a bunkhouse and self cateringcottages, and offers the chance to see howthe community buy-out is progressingfirst hand. The spanking-new pier istestament to the influx of money to theremote peninsula and locals understandthat welcoming visitors is key to theireconomic success. The KnoydartFoundation Bunkhouse could not be morefriendly and this is continued at the goodvalue waterside tearoom and at the OldForge itself. The main Bruce Watt ferryprovides a scheduled service everyweekday in summer, less frequently atother times, and Knoydart Seabridgeprovides alternative sailings including at weekends.

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Fort WilliamThe Munros


383382

Fort William

Kinlochleven

Lochailort

Glenfinnan

Invergarry

SpeanBridge

A861

A861

Ben Nevis

Carn MorDearg Aonach Mor

CarnDearg

Beinn na Lap

SgorGaibhre

Aonach Beag

An Gearanach

Stob Coire a’ Chairn

Am Bodach

Sgurr a’Mhaim

StobBan

Mullachnan

Coirean

A82

A82

A87

A82

A830

A86

L o c hO ss i a n

L o c hL o c hy

L o c hL a g g a n

L o c hL i n n h e

L o c hG a r r y

L o c hQ u o i c h

L o c h A rk a i g

L o c h E i lL o c hS h i e l

L o c h M o r a r

L o c hN ev i s

I nve r i eB ay

L o c h H o u r n

L o c hL oy n e

L o c h C l u a n i e

L o c hTr e i g1

24

5

Gulvain

Sgurr naCiche

Garbh ChiochMhor

Sgurr nanCoireachan

SgurrMor

Gairich

Sgurr a’Mhaoraich

LuinneBheinn

LadharBheinn

MeallBuidhe

SpideanMialach

Gleouraich

Sron a’ ChoireGhairbh

Meall naTeanga

Sgurr nanCoireachan

SgurrThuilm

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B8004

B8004

6The Ring of Steall

Fort WilliamThe Munros


Ben Nevis (1344m) venomous hillCarn Mor Dearg (1220m) big red rocky hill

Distance 19kmAscent 1560mTime 9 – 10 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NN123731 Map OS Explorer 392 Public transport rail and coaches to FortWilliam; bus (41) heads along Glen Nevis– very infrequent in winterTerrain & hazards heading up to Carn MorDearg from the hut is unremittinglysteep and pathless; the aréte itself is airybut any actual scrambling is minimal;the whole route is long and strenuous,with very careful navigation needed forthe descent from Ben Nevis when there is snow and poor visibility

Any fine day in the summer sees hordesof visitors swarming up the ‘MountainTrack’ to the top of Ben Nevis – for manyit will be the only hill they will ever climb.For the more experienced, however, thereis a more exciting option that does realjustice to Britain’s highest mountain.The spectacular Carn Mor Dearg arêtegives an airy traverse along its elegantcurving crest, whilst providing grandstandviews of the awesome north face.

Park at the visitor centre in Glen Neviswhere you can usually get up-to-dateweather information. From the oppositeend of the car park, cross a footbridge and

turn right to follow the River Nevisupstream for a short distance beforeturning left to climb a stile and meet theoriginal Ben Nevis path from AchintreeFarm. Bear right along this broad path,passing a plantation and gaining heightgradually at first; at around 160m up, apath from the youth hostel joins from theright. Beyond this the route starts toascend a series of wide zigzags; there areexcellent views up Glen Nevis to theMamores, with Stob Ban prominent.

Higher up, the path winds round abovethe valley of the Red Burn. Watch out forwhere the path makes a sharp left turn asit approaches the head of the valley;another zigzag leads up to the flatterground with Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe –known as the ‘half-way lochan’ – over tothe left. The path keeps a fair distancefrom the water and soon reaches ajunction. The main route up the Bencontinues to the right; instead branchnorth to take a path that leads off roundto the foot of the north face.

After about 1km the path curves right tobegin traversing into the corrie beneathsome of the highest and most spectacularclimbing routes in Britain. You’ll passCastle Ridge, Carn Dearg Buttress andTrident Buttress in turn before the pathreaches the CIC (Charles Inglis Clark)Memorial Hut, managed by the ScottishMountaineering Club. Tower Ridge looms

Ben NevisCarn Mor Dearg

1

Ben Nevis above Caol 385384


Ben Nevis

Carn MorDearg

Carn DeargMeadhonach

Carn Beag Dearg

Meall an t-Suidhe

Creag a’ Chail

Five Finger Gully

Meall Cumhann

Carn Dearg

Carn DeargCoireLeis

Sgorr Chalum

LochanMeall ant-Suidhe

Fort William

Gl

en

N

ev

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Carn

Mor Dea

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VisitorCentre

AchintreeFarm

Ben Nevis Inn

Glen Nevis(SYHA)

Glen NevisCampsite

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Allt

a ’ Mhu

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Al lt

Daim

R ed Bur n

River

Nevis

CIC Hut

Shelter

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F o r e s t

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Alternatives The vast majority of those climbing ‘TheBen’ will use the main track throughout.This begins as described above but afterLochan Meall an t-Suidhe it ignores thefork to follow the stony zigzag path all theway up onto the plateau, before

descending by the same route. The aboveroute can also be started from the NorthFace car park near Torlundy, reaching CarnMor Dearg along its ridge and descendingback to the Allt a'Mhuillin from LochanMeall an t'Suidhe.

Ben Nevis • Carn Mor DeargFort William

above – the most famous and longest ofall the climbs on the mountain, it was firstclimbed by Norman Collie.

From the hut the going gets tough;head up the very steep, pathless side ofthe ridge leading to Carn Mor Dearg. Aimdirectly east to eventually reach the grassyridge between Carn Dearg Meadhonachand Carn Mor Dearg. Bear right along the ridge to get to the summit. Althoughthis is the ninth highest Munro, it isovershadowed by the majesty of the northface of Ben Nevis across the way. The arêtecan also clearly be seen curving betweenthe two peaks.

Leave the summit in a southwesterlydirection at first and then bear southalong the clear ridge. There are somesections of fairly easy scrambling, but thelarge stable slabs of rock providereassurance and any difficulties canusually be overcome by resorting toshuffling if you are not bothered aboutyour dignity or style, or using a path justbelow the crest. This is one of the bestridge walks in Britain.

Eventually the arête starts to ascend asit nears the bulk of Ben Nevis. Finally, afaint path zigzags up the bouldery slopesto reach the summit plateau just a shortway from the trig point. There is a great

sense of satisfaction and some smugnessat having climbed the longer and moreinvolving route, but everyone’s ascent ofBritain’s highest mountain is a personalachievement – you are very unlikely to bealone at the top.

To descend, follow the main routedown. Great care is needed withnavigation in poor visibility and snowyconditions – there have been many fatalaccidents to those who, in trying to avoidGardyloo Gully on the north face, fall intothe trap of Five Finger Gully on the otherflank of the Ben. To steer a coursebetween these two gullies when theroute cannot be seen, follow a bearingfrom the summit of 231 degrees for 150m,and then keep on a bearing of 282 degrees – remember to allow forcurrent magnetic variation, and be carefulto stay on this bearing during the 100msteepening known as Maclean’s Steep.This will help you pass the mostdangerous area. If visibility is good youcan follow the well-worn path whichzigzags down the slope. This leadstowards Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe,crossing the Red Burn shortly beforereaching the path junction encounteredon the way up. Bear left here to return tothe visitor centre.


389388 Carn Mor Dearg seen from the North Face of Ben Nevis


0 2km

Aonach Mor

Aonach Beag

Stob CoireBhealaich

Sgurr a’Bhuic

Coire nanLaogh

Stob an Chul-Choire

Carn Mor Dearg

Ben Nevis

An Gearanach

Carn DeargMeadhonach

Carn Beag Dearg

Meall Cumhann

G l e n N e v i s

Water of N evi s

SteallFalls

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nanLaogh

the plateau for around 750m to near asmall cairn; from here an ill-defined ridgedescends steeply to the west. There is aneroded path which aids progress down tothe bealach at 830m. Now bear southdown into Coire Guibhsachan and followthe rather soggy glen down to the Steallruins. From here, retrace the outwardroute to Glen Nevis.

Steall (ruins)

Co

ire

Gu

ibh

sach

an

Coire anLochan

AlternativesWalkers looking for a quick way to thesummit of Aonach Mor can ride the NevisRange Gondola to the SnowgooseRestaurant at an altitude of 650m. Fromthere the summit plateau is within mucheasier reach, though if including AonachBeag you will have to return back overAonach Mor.

Aonach Beag (1234m) little ridged mountainAonach Mor (1221m) big ridged mountain

Distance 16.5kmAscent 1375mTime 7 – 8 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NN168691Map OS Explorer 392 Public transport bus (41) from FortWilliam (very limited in winter)Terrain & hazards good navigation skillsare needed on the wide summit plateauwhich has very steep flanks; the descentfrom Aonach Mor is steep with boggyground at lower levels

An approach from beautiful Glen Nevisavoids the ski developments on thisascent of two of Britain’s highestmountains. The route gives a feeling ofwildness which may be lacking if thesesummits are tackled using the Nevisgondola on their northern slopes.

Start from the car park at the end of the public road up Glen Nevis, beneath amassive waterslide coming down fromthe Ben. From the car park follow themain path into mixed woodland; the glen soon narrows into the dramaticNevis Gorge. Eventually the path emergesfrom the trees onto a picturesque greenpasture with the dramatic cascades of theSteall Falls backed by the peaks of theMamores – surely one of the mostenchanting spots in Scotland and a world

away from the bustle of the lower glen.Stay on the main path which follows

the glen round to the left into moredesolate country. After 1km cross a bridgeto reach the ruins of a small settlement.Turn off the main path here to follow afaint path up rough ground to the right ofthe Allt Coire nan Laogh, eventuallygaining the ridge leading up to Sgurra’Bhuic to avoid difficult ground at theback of Coire nan Laogh. This Top hasgood views of the Mamores and GreyCorries. Continue along the ridge to abealach before climbing steeply by thecliff edge to gain the Top of Stob CoireBhealaich. There is then a slightdepression before continuing up onto thegreat dome of Aonach Beag.

Despite beag meaning ‘small’ and mormeaning ‘big’, Aonach Beag is actuallyhigher than Aonach Mor; the name of thelatter refers to its sheer bulk. Head downthe northwest slopes which soon steepenand narrow to reach the bealach with thewider slope of Aonach Mor. Take care inpoor visibility when navigation isdifficult; to both east and west aremassive sweeps of broken crags. Aimnorth where the slopes soon widen ontothe long summit plateau, which hasimpressive cliffs falling to the east. Thesummit is right in the middle of theplateau and can take some finding inmist. For the descent, head back across

Aonach BeagAonach Mor

2Aonach Beag • Aonach Mor

391390


393392 Aonach Beag and Aonach Mor from Carn Mor Dearg


395394

Stob Ban (999m) white peakMullach nan Coirean (939m) summit of the corries

Distance 13kmAscent 1155mTime 6 – 8 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NN145683Map OS Explorer 392 Public transport bus (41) from FortWilliam (very limited in winter)Terrain & hazards steep ridges with scree;rocky sections on Stob Ban; boggy in theforest on the descent

One of the most distinctive peaks in theMamores, Stob Ban is an instantlyrecognisable backdrop to many beautifulGlen Nevis views. This excellent ridgewalk links it to Mullach nan Coirean tomake a grand circuit.

Start from the car park up to the rightjust before the bridge at Polldubh on theGlen Nevis road. The bridge offers a goodview of the falls on the Allt Coire a’Mhusgain; do not cross but instead take atrack – which soon becomes a path,leading south. It climbs steadily andpasses along the flanks of Sgurr a’ Mhaim,keeping a fair way above the deep ravineof the burn and passing through scatteredwoodland before reaching upper Coire

a’Mhusgain. The path continues rising toreach an upper level before finallyemerging on the bealach. Stob Ban looksa little intimidating – bear west along theridge. Grassy at first, the upper slopesconsist of scree and loose rocks. Thesummit is dramatically set above thenortheastern corrie and, as might beexpected from its prominent position, has spectacular views of both Glen and Ben Nevis.

Follow the north ridge to reach a knoll at a junction of ridges. From here,take the west ridge towards Mullach nan Coirean; there are scree slopes on the flanks, but the ridge itself isstraightforward and the final ascent to the flat summit is gentle.

To return to Glen Nevis head north atfirst, following the rim of the steep easterncorrie to the right to gain the northeastridge. This leads down towards an area offorestry, now clear felled. At the highfence, turn left and follow it steeply downto the stream. Cross a stile and follow anew path through the felled area to gain aforest track. Head along this, forking leftdownhill when a junction is reached. Atthe sharp bend ahead, take the good pathwhich descends more directly through thetrees to return to Polldubh.

Stob BanMullach nan Coirean

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Sgurr anIubhair

Coire a’

Mhusgain

Sron

Riabach

Carn Dearg

Beinn na Caillich

Stob Ban

Sgurr a’ Mhaim

Ben Nevis

Am Bodach

Mullachnan Coirean

Sgorr Chalum

Meall a’Chaorainn

G l e n N e v i sWate r o f Nevis

PolldubhA

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3Stob Ban • Mullach nan Coirean


397396 Stob Ban from Ben Nevis


399398 Sgurr a’ Mhaim and the Devil’s Ridge


401400

An Gearanach (982m) the complainerStob Coire a’Chairn (981m)peak of the corrie of the cairnAm Bodach (1032m) the old manSgurr a’ Mhaim (1099m) peak of the rounded hill

Distance 16kmAscent 1675mTime 9 – 11 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NN168691Map OS Explorer 392 Public transport bus (41) from FortWilliam to Lower Falls car parkTerrain & hazards a long and tough day;although the route follows a path formuch of the way, there are many sectionsof easy scrambling which some may findmore difficult because of the exposure

This horseshoe of spectacular ridges isundoubtedly one of the finest hillwalksin Scotland. Four Munros linked by airysections of aréte, including somescrambling. Best kept for a fine day toenjoy it to the full, the Ring of Steall is ahighlight in any Munro-bagger’s diary.

Start from the car park at the very end ofthe public road up Glen Nevis. Follow the

main path which leads through the treesand passes through the very impressiveNevis Gorge. The gorge suddenly opensout into a green meadow backed by theSteall Falls – a stunning sight. Fork rightfrom the main path to reach the wirebridge over the Water of Nevis. The bridgeconsists of three cables – one for the feetand two as handrails – and requires a finesense of balance to cross. When the riveris low, it is possible to paddle across if youdon’t want to risk tumbling from thebridge, even if you are mocked by childrencrossing and re-crossing the three strandsof wire for fun. Turn left on the far side topass the Steall Hut, property of theLochaber Mountaineering Club, and crossthe rocks at the base of the Fallsthemselves – this could be impossibleafter heavy rains.

After passing the base of the nextbuttress, cross a smaller burn then join anold stalkers’ path which climbs up to theright beside an eroded gully. Further on,the route gains height through a series ofzigzags before swinging to the right to joina ridge. After a steep section the ridge leadson more easily to the summit of An

The Ring of Steall:An GearanachStob Coire a’ChairnAm BodachSgurr a’ Mhaim

0 2km

Carn Dearg

Meall Cumhann

Ben Nevis

G l e n N e v i sWate r o f Nevis

Polldubh

Wire bridge

All t

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Mh

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Sgurr anIubhair

Stob Coire na h-Eirghe

StobChoire a’

Mhail

Stob Ban

Sgurr a’Mhaim

Am Bodach

Na Gruagaichean

An Gearanach

Stob Coire a’ Chairn

An Garbhanach

SteallFalls

Allt

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aB

a

Gearanach, the first Munro of the day; thereare superb views looking back to Ben Nevis.

Screw on your head for heights for thenext section which leads along the rockyareete of An Garbhanach, a Top. The easybut airy scrambling is comparable to theCarn Mor Dearg Aréte. After descending toa bealach climb up towards Stob Coirea’Chairn; there is some loose scree nearthe top. At this point the main spine of

the Mamores ridge is joined and there aregood views to the east along it towardsBinnein Mor.

Descend the grassy southwest ridge,traversing a minor summit beforeclimbing much more steeply to AmBodach. There are some loose rocks andvery mild scrambling before the summitis reached. From here follow the westridge down to a high bealach and continue

4The Ring of Steall


403402

to Sgurr an Iubhair. This summit was aMunro from 1981, when it was promotedfrom being a humble Top, until 1997 whenit was demoted again. You’ll have to ask theScottish Mountaineering Club what isgoing on with that one! From here theroute turns towards the intimidating-sounding Devil’s Ridge – don’t dwell on themindset of those who give these worryingnicknames to mountain features. Instead,set out to descend easily northwest to awide bealach before tackling the traverse ofStob Coire a’ Mhail. Although exposed andnarrow, the crest is mainly grassy with apath. Shortly after the summit there is arockier section; the trickiest section of ridgecrest can be avoided by following a bypasspath which descends a short distance tothe left. Even the bypass option involves arather awkward step around a projectingboulder – perhaps worse in anticipationthan in reality. Once back on the ridge itcontinues without further difficulty up toSgurr a’ Mhaim, whose upper slopes arecovered with quartzite scree. This is thehighest summit of the day and amagnificent viewpoint. Stob Ban looksparticularly fine to the southwest, but thehighlight is undoubtedly looking back along the Devil’s Ridge – now viewed withsmug satisfaction rather than a knot in the stomach.

The most obvious descent wouldappear to be down the northeast ridge,heading towards Steall. However, there isprecipitous ground lower down which has

seen several fatal accidents – do not betempted to head this way as there is nosafe route from the corrie floor to the glenbelow. Instead, follow the northwest ridgefrom the summit, over quartzite at firstand then steeply over grass. This is still arelentless descent and is hard on theknees, eventually leading down to thepath by the Allt Coire a’Mhusgain.Accompany this to reach the road nearPolldubh Falls. Unless you’re catching alift, cross the bridge and follow the roadfor 2.5km to the start. It is possible toavoid some tarmac by taking a path onthe south side of the river before crossingthe bridge at NN158684 to rejoin the road.

AlternativesThe Mamores are packed with fine ridges,providing a multitude of options. Onegreat variation would be to ascend Sgurra’ Mhaim and follow the Devil's Ridge toSgurr an Iubhair, but then descend to thebealach to the west, perhaps continuingto include Stob Ban and maybe evenMullach nan Coirean.

Non-scramblers could tackle AnGearanach by the ascent route given and return the same way; likewise Sgurr a’ Mhaim could be ascended out-and-back from Polldubh Falls using thedescent route described above. If takingthese options then Am Bodach and StobCoire a’Chairn could then be climbed ontheir own from the Kinlochleven side of the range.

Sgor Gaibhre (955m) goat’s peakCarn Dearg (941m) red rocky hill

Distance 21.75kmAscent 975mTime 7 – 8 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NN356664 Map OS Explorer 385 Public transport train to Corrour Stationon West Highland Line (no road access)Terrain & hazards tracks, hillpaths;pathless on the main climb and descent

Though their outlines are unspectacular,the remote setting of Sgor Gaibhre andCarn Dearg above beautiful Loch Ossianmore than makes up for any lack ofcharacter. This route from CorrourStation has the advantage of a high-levelstart to minimise the effort. Rather thancompleting the hills between trains, thetrip is greatly enhanced by an overnightstay at the idyllic eco-hostel on theshores of the loch.

Start with the train journey on the WestHighland Line to Corrour Station.Whether approaching from the north orsouth, the rail journey is a memorableone, running through magnificentlyremote countryside. With no public roadaccess, Corrour is the most isolatedstation on Britain’s rail network and maybe familiar from its role in the filmTrainspotting. In 2012 the Station Housewas opened – with rave reviews – as a

restaurant by new owners; this can be auseful refuge as you wait for the returntrain. For an atmospheric overnight staytry the original Loch Ossian Hostel whichcomes into view as you start the walkalong the vehicle track towards the loch.This enjoys perhaps the most perfectsetting of any hostel, right down by thewater’s edge amongst a group of pines. Itwas once the waiting room for privateguests of Corrour Estate; here they wouldawait the steamer which would take themalong the water to the shooting lodge.The hostel was given an eco-makeover bythe SYHA in the 1990s and now – withcomposting toilets, but no showers – itcan cater for up to 20 guests.

At a fork in the track keep right and,further on when it branches left to thehostel, turn right instead onto a recentlyimproved path. This forms part of theancient Road to the Isles route whichleads eventually to Rannoch Station. Thepath gradually gains height, but becomesvery wet underfoot as it crosses the flatground east of Meall na Lice. It meetsanother path by Peter’s Rock – a memorialto Peter Trowell, a warden at the hostel,who died nearby in 1979.

Leave the paths behind and headdirectly up the open slope over moorlandto Meall na Leitire Duibhe. Now follow thebroad, bumpy shoulder around CoireCreagach to reach the fine cairn which

Sgor GaibhreCarn Dearg

5Fort William


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CorrourStation

Lochan a’Bhealaich

Loch Ossian

Sgor Choinnich

Meall a’Bhealaich

Meall Nathrach Mor

CoireCreagach

Bealachnan Sgor

Mam Ban

Meall na Leitire Duibhe

Meall na Lice

Sgor Gaibhre

Carn Dearg

Beinn na Lap

Corrour Lodge

Allt

a’ Choire

Chreagaich

Uisge Labh air

River

Ossian

Loch Ossian(SYHA)

Corrour StationHouse (SYHA)

Peter’sRock

0 2km

marks the summit of Carn Dearg.Although lower than many of thesurrounding mountains its centralposition makes it a wonderful vantagepoint over the wild country at the heart ofthe Highlands.

The route down to Mam Ban is notimmediately obvious, though the grassycone of Sgor Gaibhre and its twin Top,Sgor Choinnich, can easily be seen on aclear day. Bear northeast over a smallintervening hillock and on down a steepersection to reach the boggy bealach. Fromhere the route up Sgor Gaibhre is muchclearer, with a path leading directly up tothe summit which sports a much smallercairn. The eastern side of the mountain

falls away steeply to give depth to themassive bulk of Ben Alder beyond.

Take care in poor visibility on thedescent to the Bealach nan Sgor as thereis steep ground on the right – headnorthwest initially to avoid this. From thecol steep slopes lead up to SgorChoinnich, a twin to Sgor Gaibhre thoughonly classified as a Top. It can be bypassedby making a rising traverse to the leftfrom the bealach, or climbed direct. Eitherway, head over gentle slopes to crossMeall Nathrach Mor, and continue downthe pathless heather towards the foot ofLoch Ossian, aiming just to the right ofthe plantations. Make for the gate in thefence beside a burn and, once through,

keep just right of a felled area toeventually pick up a clear path. Turn leftonto this, crossing a bridge to reach Loch Ossian. Immediately on the right isthe futuristic Corrour Lodge; completed in 2003 at a rumoured cost of over £20million, the granite and glass structurewas commissioned by an heir to theTetrapak fortune. It looks like the lair of aBond villain, although more mundanely itcurrently provides a country retreat forpaying guests.

Turn left along the track for the longbut beautiful walk along the edge of LochOssian. Keep right at the fork and headthrough forestry where rhododendronsprovide a splash of Himalayan colour

during the spring. The conifers eventuallygive way to birches and finally openground before Loch Ossian hostel isreached. If not staying here, continue tothe station.

AlternativesIf you don’t like trains, one alternative isan approach from Loch Eigheach on thelonely road from Kinloch Rannoch inPerthshire to Rannoch Station. The walkfrom here is a long horseshoe of humpyridges around the headwaters of the AlltEigheach, though for bagging-fiends thereis the advantage of including a Corbett,Meall na Meoig, along the way.

Sgor Gaibhre • Carn DeargFort William


Looking over Loch Ossian from the slopes of Meall Nathrach Mor 407406


409408

Beinn na Lap (935m) dappled hill

Distance 10kmTime 3 – 5 hoursStart point NN356664Map OS Explorer 385 Public transport train to Corrour Stationon West Highland Line (no road access)Terrain & hazards boggy lower slopes;pathless, indistinct ridge higher up

Beinn na Lap – otherwise in the middle of nowhere – is easily accessed fromCorrour Station, the most remote stop on the fabulous West Highland Line.A starting height of 400m helps to makethe ascent one of the quickest amongstthe Munros. The hill is unspectacular, butthe views – over Rannoch Moor and thenearby mountains – are excellent. Soakup the unique atmosphere of the areawith a stay at the waterside Loch OssianYouth Hostel.

Taking the train to Corrour Station is areal treat. The timetable from the north(Tulloch is the nearest station) is betterfor day walkers, but the remote rail trip isenjoyable from any start point. There isno vehicular access unless you are stayingon the Corrour Estate and even then yoursuspension will be tested by miles ofLandrover track to reach Loch Ossian from the north.

Corrour Station House is now run as a restaurant, whilst the tiny butatmospheric hostel at nearby Loch Ossianprovides accommodation. The Ossian

Hostel is a converted steamer waitingroom and provides a cosy and characterfulplace to stay with a wood-burning stoveand ecofriendly composting loos.

From the train station follow the trackeast across the moor. Loch Ossian sooncomes into view with the tiny hostel visibleamongst a stand of trees by the water.Before reaching it, branch left at a fork andthen left again at the next junction, past avehicle barrier. Almost immediately, leavethe track where it bends left to follow anindistinct boggy path heading directly forthe west ridge of Beinn na Lap. The climbsoon steepens with improving views backdown over Loch Ossian.

Once on the broad ridge of Ceann CaolBeinn na Lap the gradient eases. Therocky ground crosses a number ofrounded lumps before the summit comesinto sight. At this point a squarewindshelter cairn on the right edge of theridge provides commanding views overthe loch below.

The effort required to reach the topreally is negligible by Munro standardsbecause of the high-level start and it canbe a surprise to arrive at the summit cairn.Beinn na Lap gives a fine perspective onthe arc of higher summits around as wellas the more open sweep towards RannochMoor. The easiest return is by the sameoutward route. If time allows Beinn na Lapmakes a good combination with thehorseshoe Corbett Leum Uilleam on theother side of the railway line.

Beinn na Lap

0 2km

Alternatives To make a longer circular route, follow theSron na Cloiche Sgoilite ridge and thentake the path and track back through

Strath Ossian and along the north shoreof Loch Ossian to pick up the outwardtrack back to the station.

CorrourStation

Loch naSgeallaig

LochanRuighPhail

Loch Ossian

Meall na Lice

Sron

na

Cloi

che

Sgoi

lite

Garbh-bheinn

Beinn na Lap

Loch Ossian(SYHA)

Corrour StationHouse (SYHA)

AlltFei t

hThui l

l

Beinn na Lap6


411410

Gulvain (987m) hill of noise

Distance 21kmAscent 1230mTime 7 – 10 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NM960794 Maps OS Explorers 398 & 399Terrain & hazards long walk in to remotehill with grassy but steep ascent

The solitary Munro of Gulvain may be farfrom roads, but Gleann Fionnlighemakes for a pleasant, if lengthy,approach. The lower slopes give a longpull up steep grass, but the final ridgeabove and its stunning views are anample reward.

The walk starts from near the junctionof the A830 and the A861, but the bestplace to leave a car is a short distancealong the A861 at a lay-by on the right.Return to the A830 and briefly turn rightbeside it and then left onto a track tosome houses. Turn right at the housesand cross a bridge; the walk now turns upthe gated track on the left (SP Footpath toStrathan). The track leads up the east sideof the glen at first, climbing slightlythrough the birchwoods. After 2km itcrosse back over the Fionn Lighe andcontinues up the glen.

Pass the deserted building at Uachan,after which the track becomes muchrougher, some cyclists may want toabandon their bikes here. When the trackforks, keep right, staying near the river.

Some 2km beyond Uachan, the forest isleft behind as the track continues up thenow open Gleann Fionnlighe, eventuallybecoming a path. After 2km cross a bridgeover the Allt a’choire Reidh; a chance tostop and examine the steep andfeatureless grassy slopes of Gulvainahead. Shortly after crossing the burn,look out for a small cairn which indicatesa path forking off to the right. Afteraround 0.5km further a hill path heads leftto begin the ascent, which is continuouslysteep up to a minor hump at 855m. Herethe gradient eases and the walk continuespleasantly along the ridge to the trigpoint on the south top. This is not theMunro summit, however; the higher cairnon Gulvain is just over 1km further alongthe ridge. It descends slightly to a levelbealach before a fine narrower sectionleads up to the true summit, from wherethe lochs and mountains of WestLochaber spread out as far as the eye cansee. Return by the same route – it mayseem a very long way!

AlternativesIt is possible – if you are very fit – to headup Glen Mallie and then climb northwestto a bealach at 536m which is crossed by adrystone dyke. Alternatively, this pointcould be reached by traversing MullachCoire nan Geur-oirean – a tongue-twistingGraham. The route then ascends the ridgeto arrive directly at the summit cairn.

Gulvain

0 2km

Gulvain

Al l t

a’ C

ho

i r eR

eid

h

Fio

nn

Lighe

Gl

ea

nn

F

io

nn

li

gh

e

LocheilsideStation

A830L o c h E i l

A861

Beinn an t-Sneachda

AodannChleireig

Meall Onfhaidh

Braigh nanUamhachan

Uachan

Gulvain7


413412

Sgurr Thuilm (963m) peak of the hillockSgurr nan Coireachan (956m) peak of the corries

Distance 23kmAscent 1445mTime 9 – 10 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NM906808Map OS Explorer 398Public transport train or bus toGlenfinnanTerrain & hazards excellent track onapproach could be cycled; the summitsand ridges are steep, rugged and rocky

The viaduct, monument, and views downLoch Shiel from Glenfinnan make it oneof Scotland’s most celebrated locations.Its two Munros are set well back,however, and receive far less attention.Nonetheless, the traverse of these veryrugged, steep peaks makes for a superbbut demanding day.

Turn north onto a tarred track off theA830 at Glenfinnan, just northwest of thebridge over the River Finnan; there is thena parking area on the right-hand side. Thewalk begins along the private tarmac roadwhich leads up the glen, soon passingunder the impressive railway viaduct. Theviaduct carries the celebrated WestHighland line from Fort William toMallaig and has been made even morefamous due its starring role in the firstHarry Potter film. Continue up the glen,

ignoring any turnings, and after 3km crossthe Allt a Chaol-ghlinne. Once over thebridge turn right onto a rougher track toreach the old cottage of Corryhully. Theestate maintains this shelter which can beused as a bothy outwith the stalkingseason. Follow the track up the west bankof the River Finnan for 2km beforecrossing a bridge and continuing on thetrack to the right.

After 250m strike off northeast; there aretraces of a rough path at first, but thisbecomes indistinct as you climb steeplyonto the Druim Coire a’ Bheithe ridge justto the right of a burn. Once the ridgebecomes better defined follow it; after aflat shoulder it turns north and crosses aminor lump, passing some fencepostsbefore the final short pull up to SgurrThuilm. The ground falls away steeply tothe north and west, making forspectacular views into Knoydart.

Retrace the route as far down as thefenceposts and then bear west along theridge that leads to Sgurr nan Coireachan.The ridge passes over four interveninglumps and the rough ground makes itslow going, but traces of a path helpbefore it eventually climbs to the trigpoint at the top of Sgurr nan Coireachan.This second Munro of the day is, ifanything, an even finer viewpoint thanthe first. To descend take the southeastridge towards the minor peak of Sgurr a’

Sgurr ThuilmSgurr nan Coireachan

0 2km

SgurrThuilm

Sgurr nanCoireachan

Riv

erF in

nan

Beinn anTuim

Meall anUillt Chaoil

Coire

Thollaidh

Druim Coire

a’ Bheithe

Sgurr a’ ChoireRiabhaich

Meall anTarmachain Beinn

Gharbh

Coire Carnaig

Sgurr anFhuarain Duibh

Coire

Odhar

Mor

Fraoch-bheinn

Streap

Allt Guirnean

Allt Coire a’ B haithe

Loch naCarnaichA830

G l e n f i n n a n

Glenfinnan

Loch Shiel Monument

VisitorCentre

viaduct

Corryhully

GlenfinnanLodge

Al lt a Ch aol- g hlinne

Gl e a n

Cu

i r ne a n

Gl

en

F

in

na

n

Sgurr Thuilm • Sgurr nan Coireachan8


415414

Choire Riabhaich. Cross the narrow ridgewith care and head steeply downhill,eventually picking up a stalkers’ pathwhen the slope eases. This heads to theleft, diagonally cutting across the eastflank of the ridge before eventuallyleading down to the track in the glen.Turn right to retrace your steps for thelong walk back to Glenfinnan.

AlternativesIt is also possible to approach these peaksfrom the end of the public road near thehead of Loch Arkaig. This way is evenrougher and involves a tricky crossing ofthe River Pean near the end, making itimpossible if the water level is high. Passthrough Strathan and then cross a bridgeover the Pean at the foot of GleannCuirnean. Strike off up Meill an Fhir-eoin,avoiding a couple of craggy sections, andcontinue up the ridge to Sgurr Thuilm.

After traversing to Sgurr nan Coireachanas described above, return to the lastbealach on the ridge between the summitand Meall nan Tarmachan. From here it is possible to make a steep descentnortheast at first, then traverse the roughground of an indistinct ridge above Coirenan Gall to reach point 406m. Finally, aim to reach the floor of the glen near the Glen Pean Bothy at the edge of the forestry. The river itself is the finalobstacle; on the far side the path can bepicked up for the return to the start.

Fort William

Glenfinnan Viaduct


Meall Dubh

Sean Mheall

Ben Tee

Meall nanDearcag

DruimGhlaoidh

LeitirFhoinnlaigh

Meall naTeanga

Sron a’ ChoireGhairbh

Loch a’ChoireGhlais

Allt a’ Ch oi re Ghlais

Allt Glas-Dhoire

L o c h L o c h y

A82

So

ut

h L

ag

ga

n F

or

es

t

Th

e

Gr

ea

t

Gl

en

417416

0 2km

Kilfinnan

CeannLoch

LagganLocks

Ki lf in

nan

Burn

Sron a’ Choire Ghairbh (937m)nose of the rough corrieMeall na Teanga (917m) rounded hill of the tongue

Distance 19kmAscent 1260mTime 7 – 8 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NN278958Map OS Explorer 400Public transport bus to Laggan Lochs –just over 1km from startTerrain & hazards straightforward hillwalking on mainly grassy hills – a long day

Sron a’ Choire Ghairbh and Meall naTeanga rise steeply above Loch Lochy and are a familiar landmark on a drivethrough the Great Glen. The ascent fromKilfinnan approaches through forestryplantations, but the views are excellentand the going fairly straightforward.

There is limited parking on a grassy areajust before the road crosses the bridgeover the Kilfinnan Burn. Take care not toobstruct any passing or turning spaces.Start by crossing the bridge and followingthe Great Glen Way in the direction of FortWilliam. Pass the farm and follow thetrack running along the edge of thewoodland, passing some chalets beforeentering the forest.

At a fork, the Great Glen Way heads left

downhill towards the Loch. Branch righthere and follow the gently rising track.After about 2km, at a large boulder, turn right. The path climbs steeplythrough the forest. Once above the trees it continues along the north flank of thevalley of the Allt Glas-Dhoire, aiming forthe narrow pass between the two hills.This route is an old ‘Coffin Road’, onceused by crofters to carry the dead to thegraveyard at Kilfinnan.

On reaching the bealach you have a choice of which Munro to tackle first. For Sron a’ Choire Gairbh follow the well-engineered zigzags stalkers’ path on the north side of the bealach to eventually gain a grassy ridge. It is then a short walk along the edge of the broken cliffs to the summit cairn.There are impressive views up the GreatGlen and towards the wilderness ofKnoydart, and the next Munro, Meall na Teanga, is profiled against a backdropof Ben Nevis.

Retrace your steps to the bealach. Theroute for Meall na Teanga is less obvious;climb across the slopes of Meall Dubh toreach the bealach to its right. Now aim forthe broad north ridge of Meall nanTeanga, which levels off before thesummit cairn. Ben Nevis is seen to bettereffect from here. Return to the bealachand retrace your steps to Kilfinnan.

Sron a’ Choire GhairbhMeall na Teanga

Sron a’ Choire Ghairbh • Meall na Teanga9


419418

Whistle of the Breast – as the wind cantear cruelly through this gap. The ascentto Sgurr na Ciche appears intimidating.However, a path winds first to the leftbefore making a series of zigzags to reachthe shapely summit and its classic viewalong the length of Loch Nevis.

The return is energy-sapping – so beprepared. Return to the Feadan na Cicheand then aim southwest down into agulch. This is steep and requires care withsome straightforward scrambling. Keepheading down once out of the gully until,at about 650m, you can bear southeastacross the shoulder of Garbh ChiochMhor. Keep going in the same direction topick up the path from Sourlies (on LochNevis) to Glendessary. Turn left along thisboggy path. At a fork there are twooptions; either branch left above theforestry to rejoin the outward route, orturn right to head down through thetrees. If taking the latter option the terrainis often sodden; you eventually come tothe River Dessary which you accompanydownstream to reach the end of a track.This leads through an open section andthen close to A’ Chuil Bothy before re-entering the trees. After a further 4km,turn left at a junction to cross the river atStrathan and return to the start.

AlternativesThis is a great area for wild camping orstaying overnight in one of severalbothies; doing this opens up manydifferent combinations and possibilities.One option is to stay at the tiny, basicshelter at Sourlies at the head of LochNevis and then ascend Sgurr na Cichealong its long western ridge. Sourlies, likeA’ Chuil, is maintained by volunteers fromthe Mountain Bothies Association; ifvisiting any of the bothies please help bykeeping them tidy and carrying out anyrubbish you find there.

Sgurr na Ciche (1040m) peak of the breastGarbh Chioch Mhor (1013m)big rough place of the breastSgurr nan Coireachan (953m) peak of the corries

Distance 26kmAscent 1520mTime 10 – 12 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NM988916Map OS Explorer 398Terrain & hazards boggy lower ground;the walk crosses exceptionally rugged,rocky terrain which can be exhausting

This route traverses one of the mostrugged and magnificent mountain ridgesin Scotland, culminating in the steep,pointed summit of Sgurr na Ciche at thehead of Loch Nevis. The tough, rockyterrain gives this very remote route anepic feel.

The single-track road along beautifulLoch Arkaig has bumps, twists and turnsto match any rollercoaster before it endsnear the head of the loch. There is onlyvery limited parking on the verges so takecare not to block the turning area beforebeginning the walk along the privatetrack. Branch right at a fork (SP Tomdounand Morar) and keep on the main routewhen the Tomdoun path goes off to theright. Pass Glendessary Farm and the

Sgurr na CicheGarbh Chioch MhorSgurr nan Coireachan

Lodge before reaching Upper Glendessary.Two paths continue from here; take the

one to the right, an ancient right of waywhich climbs towards the top corner ofthe forestry seen ahead. It then carries onacross the hillside just above the treesand is very wet in places. When youeventually reach the Allt Coire nan Uth,look out for the bridge and, once across,begin climbing directly up the steepslopes that lead onto the south ridge ofSgurr nan Coireachan. The pull up isunrelenting, but as the ridge becomesbetter defined the gradient eases for thefinal more pleasant approach to thesummit cairn.

Descend the very steep west ridge,continuing down to the Bealach Coire nanGall. There is a path which follows theremains of a drystone dyke; it risessteeply and traverses Garbh Chioch Bheagto reach the larger Garbh Chioch Mhor.The ridge is rocky and contorted, makingfor slow going, but the views of themagnificently rugged landscapes from thecairn at the second Munro of the dayrepay any amount of effort.

Keep following the wall as it dropssteeply down to the bealach with theimpressive cone of Sgurr na Ciche ahead.On all but the stillest day the bealach livesup to its name ‘Feadan na Ciche’ – the

Sgurr na Ciche • Garbh Chioch Mhor • Sgurr nan Coireachan10


421420

0 2km

L o c h A rk a i g

L o c hN ev i s

Sgurr na Ciche

Garbh Chioch Mhor Sgurr nan

Coireachan

Sgurr Mor

Sgurr Cos naBreachd-laoidh

Druim a’Chuirn

Sgurr Beag

Monadh Gorm

An Eag

Sgurr anFhuarain

Meall a’ Choire Dhuibh

Bealach Coirenan Gall

Feadan na Ciche

Bidein a’Chabair

Sgurr nah-Aide

Ben Aden

Fraoch Bheinn

Al ltCoire nan

Uth

River Dessary

Lochan a’Mhaim

G l e n D e s s a r y

G l e n K i n g i e

G l e n P e a n

River Carnach

Fini sk aig River

Allt Coi re na Cic he

Glendessary Farm

GlendessaryLodge

UpperGlendessary

Sourlies

A’ Chuil

S t r a t h a n

Garbh Chioch Bheag

Sgurr na Ciche • Garbh Chioch Mhor • Sgurr nan CoireachanFort William


423422 Garbh Chioch Mhor and Sgurr na Ciche from Sgurr an Fhuarain


425424

Sgurr Mor (1003m) big peak

Distance 24kmAscent 1510mTime 9 – 11 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NM987916 Map OS Explorer 398 Terrain & hazards rough and remotewalking on pathless ground with somesteep and some boggy sections; the River Kingie may be impassable in spate

Sgurr Mor, a rocky and steep peakbetween Loch Quoich and lonely GlenKingie, must rank as one of the remotestMunros. Unless you have a kayak or boatto cross the loch, the quickest ascentinvolves a long walk from Glendessary to the south.

After the tortuous but beautiful driveup Loch Arkaig, park just short of theturning area at the end of the public road.There is room for several cars on theverge; take care not to block the turningarea. Go through the gate and branchright (SP Morar and Tomdoun) when thetrack forks. Keep straight ahead when theTomdoun path leaves to the right andcontinue on the track beside the Allt naFeithe. Immediately after crossing the Alltna Feithe turn right (north) onto anindistinct path, soon passing through agate and climbing towards the pass. SgurrMor comes into view across Glen Kingieas the gradient eases, but the goingbecomes increasingly boggy as the top ofthe pass is reached; aim directly north

across pathless ground to descend intothe glen.

Glen Kingie is one of the Highlands’emptiest glens, with the solitary bothy at Kinbreak being the only building formany miles down the glen. The river must be forded – this usually presents no problem, but if in spate it can beimpossible to cross safely without a long detour.

Bear directly north up the hillsideopposite, aiming for the the bealachbetween Sgurr Mor and Sgurr anFhuarain. Though very steep, the pathlessslope is grassy and has no difficulties.Once at the ridge there are sudden viewsdown to Loch Quoich. Sgurr Mor is to thewest, but having come so far it is worthconsidering a detour to the east first toclimb the Corbett of Sgurr an Fhuarain.Back at the bealach, begin the ascent toSgurr Mor using a stalkers’ path whichheads to the right of the ridge crest partway up the slope, gaining height in aseries of old zigzags before rejoining theridge high up. A false summit is crossedbefore the final cairn comes into view.From here the mountains of Knoydartprovide a sensational backdrop to thepointed summit of Sgurr na Ciche.

The quickest return is to retrace yoursteps, but there is a fine alternative routeas far as the pass. Head down the steepand rocky southwest ridge of Sgurr Mor;the going is made much easier by thestalkers’ path. This descends to a first

Sgurr Mor

0 2km

Sgurr Mor

Sgurr anFhuarain

Doire nan CluaineanSgurr Beag

L o c h A rk a i g

L o c h Q u o i c h

Sgurr Cos naBreachd-laoidh

Druim a’Chuirn

Monadh Gorm

An Eag

Fraoch Bheinn

Feit

h a’

Chic

hean

ais

Coire

Buidhe

Al ltCoire nan

Uth

River Dessary

G l e n D e s s a r y

G l e n K i n g i e

Glendessary Farm

GlendessaryLodge

S t r a t h a n

All

tna

Feit

he

Kinbreak

Sgurr Mor

11


427426

bealach and then traverses Sgurr Beagbefore a long descent to the lowestbealach on the ridge at 662m. Cross thisbealach and continue a very shortdistance up the far side to pick up anotherstalker’s path which gradually descendsacross the south flank of the ridge beforedoubling back to drop down into GlenKingie.

At the floor of the glen cross the fenceand the River Kingie to contour round theboggy slopes on the far side beforeclimbing gradually up into the Feith a’Chicheanais pass crossed earlier in theday. Take a last look back at these remotehills before retracing the outward route toGlen Dessary.

AlternativesHillwalkers who are also kayakers canreach the foot of the northern side ofSgurr Mor by paddling across Loch Quoich.

Fort William

Sgurr Mor


429428

Gairich (919m) the roaring

Distance 15kmAscent 870mTime 5 – 6 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NH070025Map OS Explorer 399 Terrain & hazards extremely boggyinitially, with short and very easyscramble near the top

Gairich is the final peak of the great ridgethat extends from Sgurr na Ciche.Despite its diminutive size it is farenough from its neighbours to havegreat character, and the relatively shortascent is rewarded with superb views.

Start from the Loch Quoich Dam; thereis parking just west of the dam on thesouth side of the road. The dam is amassive 320m long and 38m high. It wasbuilt in 1962 in one of the largest of thehydro-electric schemes which broughtelectricity to much of the Highlands forthe first time. Start out by crossing thetop of the dam from where you canexamine the craggy northeast face ofGairich.

Follow the rough and very boggy path,keeping close to the water at first. After1km the path climbs away from the

reservoir and passes the southern end ofLochan an Fhigheadair. Underfootconditions improve as it crosses a lowbealach before heading down towards theforestry below the Bealach na Faire to joinanother old route. Don’t be tempted bythe gate here; instead bear right onto arough trod which rises alongside theforest fence to reach a stalkers’ path fromGlen Kingie.

Climb Druim na Geid Salaich in a seriesof zigzags to reach the extensive plateauof Bac nam Foid where the path becomesindistinct. Bear west towards Gairich; thepath becomes clear again on reachingsteeper ground. It keeps to the left of theridgeline at first before zigzagging sharplyright to ascend to the foot of a steepsection. A newer path worn by Munro-baggers now leads up the ridge whilst theolder stalkers’ route cuts across the face ofthe hill. Take the newer route; the ridge isvery steep higher up with a tiny bit ofsimple scrambling before reaching thesummit. Gairich is one of the smallest ofthe Munros, but its isolated position givesit a superb outlook over the waters ofLoch Quoich and towards the ruggedpeaks of Knoydart and Glendessary.Return by the same outward route.

Gairich

0 2km

L o c h Q u o i c h

LochFearna

Lochannan Sgud

Lochan anFhigheadair

Gearr Garr y

R iver Kingie

Spidean Mialach

Gleouraich

G l e n K i n g i e

dam

Bealachna FaireGairich Bac namFoid

Drui m n a G ei d S al aich

Gairich

12


Loch Quoich and Gairich 431430


433432

Gleouraich (1035m) the roaringSpidean Mialach (996m) peak of the louse

Distance 12kmAscent 1130mTime 6 – 8 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NH032028Map OS Explorer 414 Terrain & hazards good stalkers’ paths area great aid on these steep and rocky peaks

With splendid rocky corries on theirnorthern flanks these two Munros offer superb hillwalking. Access is easedby some good stalkers’ paths; the oneused on the descent in particular being a remarkable monument to the skill ofits builders.

This route starts from the tiny roadwhich runs along the north side of LochQuoich. There is parking opposite the endof the stalkers’ path coming down fromGleouriach at NH029029. Begin by headingeast along the road for 400m until a postmarks the start of another stalkers’ path,this time heading for Spidean Mialach,which slopes up the hillside to the rightand passes beneath the electricity pylons.

The going becomes quite boggy in CoireMheil; continue to the Allt Coire Dubhwhere the path begins to fade out.Heading upstream until the burn diverges;cross the left branch and trace the right

one upstream. Choose a good point tostrike off directly up the open slopes,aiming directly for Spidean Mialach. Thelarge summit cairn is perched on the edgeof the dramatic northern cliffs.

Ahead is the most spectacular part ofthe walk. Follow the ridge, with a wholeseries of steep, rocky corries forming thenorthern edge, soon descending quitesteeply to the Fiar Bhealach. After a slightdip, tackle the final rocky climb to thecairn and trig point of Gleouraich, the second Munro of the day. There aregood views of the little-known grassy side of the Glen Shiel Ridge and also into Knoydart.

Continue to a junction of ridges andtake the path which leads down the leftbranch. The pointy top of Sgurr na Cichecan be seen across Loch Quoich as thepath crosses a flat shoulder and then runs just below the crest of the DruimSeilleach ridge on its western flank. Thepath is good, but you can’t help but beaware of the great gulf on the right wherethe slopes drop straight into a finger ofLoch Quoich far below. After heading backonto the ridge itself the path descends the nose of Sron a’ Chuillin via a series ofzigzags and leads southeast downhill,soon joining the Allt Coire Peitireachdown to the road.

GleouraichSpidean Mialach

0 2km

L o c h Q u o i c h

LochFearna

Gearr Garr y

Spidean Mialach

Gleouraich

dam

Aonach air Chrith

Maol Chinn-dearg

G l e n Q u o i c h

Ea s ter Gl en Q uoich B urn

G l e n q u o i c h

F o r e s t

River

Qu

oich

Coire Mheil

Coire Dubh

FiarBhealach

Allta’

Mh

eill

AlltCoire

Dubh

Creag Coire naFiar Bhealaich

DruimSeilleach

Sron

a’

Chu

ilinn

Allt

Coir

ePe

itir

each

Gl

en

Q

uo

ic

h

Gleouraich • Spidean Mialach

13


435434

Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich (1027m)peak of the shellfish

Distance 14kmAscent 1025mTime 6 – 8 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NH014040Map OS Explorer 414 Terrain & hazards good stalkers’ patheases the first part of the ascent; thesteep and rocky return over Am Bathaichcan be avoided by returning the same way

The location of this solitary Munrobetween Loch Quoich and Loch Hournmakes it an outstanding viewpoint. Onits own the mountain can be climbedquickly, but the longer, circular routegiven here is well worthwhile.

There is space to park just after theconcrete bridge over the northern leg ofLoch Quoich on the road to KinlochHourn; if full, park carefully on the verge alittle further on. Start by following theroad west, looking out for the start of astalkers path at NH010034. Follow this upthe lower slopes, passing under thepylons to reach the wide ridge of Bac nanCanaichean. Follow the ridge across thetwo summits of Sgurr Coire nanEiricheallach; it falls steeply on thenorthern side into Coire a’ Chaorainn.Pass a drystone dyke, after which theridge narrows for the final rocky climb upSgurr a’ Mhaoraich. In calm conditionsthe panorama deserves a lengthy break.

The entire South Glen Shiel Ridgestretches out to the northeast, but itcannot compete with the view towardsthe great peaks of Knoydart, with the seaand the Cuillin of Skye beyond. In theopposite direction is Loch Quoich; thecurrent waterline was created in 1962when the loch was dammed as part of thelargest of the hydro-electric schemeswhich first brought electricity to theHighlands.

If looking for a short day or the weatheris closing in, the quickest descent is backdown the outward path. However, theroute can made into a circuit by headingaround Coire a’ Chaorainn before makinga steeper descent. Follow the summitridge NNW for about 350m beforedescending the steep NNE spur to theBealach Coire a’ Chaorainn. The best lineup the craggy slopes opposite is to keepto the left initially before traversing backto the right once safely above thedifficulties.

Continue ENE over the bumpy summitsof Am Bathaich before the ridge starts todescend more steeply. Pick up a stalkers’path which starts on the south side theridge. This eventually zigzags down to theAllt Coire a’Chaorainn; cross this andhead downstream by the boggy southbank. After 1km the path meets the trackcoming down the glen from theabandoned farm at Alltbeithe. Turn rightto emerge on the road near the start.

Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich

0 2km

L o c h Q u o i c h

Maol Chinn-dearg

Sgurr an DoireLeathain

Sgurr anLochain

Sgurr a’Mhaoraich

G l e n q u o i c h F o r e s t

River

Qu

oich

Gleouraich

Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach

Coire

nan Eiricheallach

Am Bathaich


Beag

Tom nanRamh

Sgurr Thionail

Bealach Coire

a’ Chaorainn

Coire a’Chaorainn

Leac nan

Gaidhseich

Bac nan C

anaichean

Al lt Co ire a’ Ch aor ainn Alltbeithe

Gl

en

Q

uo

ic

h

AlternativesA quicker but less interesting route starts2km further west along the road. Start upthe track which leads under the pylonsand up into Coire nan Eiricheallach. Whenit meets a burn coming down from theLeac nan Gaidhseich turn left and followthe water, continuing up onto the ridge.After crossing a bumpy shoulder bearnorth to gain a ridge which leads up ontoSgurr a’ Mhaoraich.


14


Gleouraich, from Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich 437436


439438

Luinne Bheinn (939m) sea-swelling hillMeall Buidhe (946m) yellow rounded hill

Distance 27kmAscent 1585mTime 10 – 13 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NG765002Map OS Explorer 413 Public transport bus or train to Mallaig,then ferry to Inverie (no road access)Terrain & hazards extremely rugged,steep and rocky terrain throughout, withodd bits of very simple scrambling

These two superb hills are at the heart of the remote Knoydart peninsula. Theyprovide a challenging walk amidst astunning landscape of sea and some of the finest mountains in Scotland.(NB: There is no road access intoKnoydart from outside the area – see the area introduction).

From the pier at Inverie turn right topass the Old Forge pub. Follow the roadby the loch shore but when it bends right,take the track ahead signed forKinlochourn and Strathan. This climbsthrough the trees; at the top edge of thewoods bear right through a gate,following the track which now slopesdownhill, eventually passing the BrocketMemorial high on a knoll on the left. LordBrocket was an absentee landlord, MP andNazi sympathiser who evicted manytenants to ensure the continued use of

Luinne BheinnMeall Buidhe

the land as a shooting retreat. The uneasyrelationship between residents andlandlowners continued until thecommunity buyout in 1999 – since thenthe population has grown to around 100.

Take a track branching right to cross theglen, soon reaching a footbridge over theInverie River. Beyond this is Druim Bothy– this locked bothy is owned by theKilchoan Estate and is available to rent, alovely if very midgy spot at times. Crossanother footbridge, this time over the AlltGleann Meadail, and follow the pathbelow the crags at the lower end of theDruim Righeanaich. Once beyond thecrags leave the path and find a way up thesteep slope on the left to gain the ridge.There are faint bits of path in places butin high summer bracken makes thisascent a real struggle; at such times it isworth considering the alternative ofcontinuing up the path to the head of theglen before making a steep and rockyclimb to Meall Buidhe from there.Otherwise, once the ridge is gained thegoing is relatively easy to the top of An t-Uiriollach. There are magical viewslooking back to Inverie Bay, the islands ofEigg and Rum and the Sleat Peninsula ofSkye beyond.

The short descent leads to astraightforward climb up the ridge toreach the Munro summit of Meall Buidhe.From here, continue to the east top and

Climbing the ridge onto Luinne Bheinn

15


441440

0 2km

MeallBuidhe

LuinneBheinnCnuic nan

Eildean

Bealach Ile Coire

Bealach

a’Choire

Odhair

An t-Uiriollach

Druim Leac a’ Shith

Bachd Mhic an Tosaich

Meall Coire naGaoithe’n Ear

Druim

Righeanaich

Meall Bhasiter

Beinn Bhuidhe

Sgurr CoireChoinnichean

A’ Cruach

Abhainn nan Eil d ean

Loch an Dubh-Lochain Lochan

an TalamhDheirg Loch Coire

na Gaoithe’nEar

LochBh’aomisaig

Inverie Bay

InverieThe Old Forge

BrocketMemorial

Druim

Inverie R iver

G l e a n n M e a d a i l

G l e a n n a n D u b h - L o c h a i nM a m B a r r i s d a l e

Allt Gl e a nn Me adai l

AonachSgoilte

follow the clear path which descendssteeply through the crags and avoids anyreal difficulty. Without the path a safedescent to the Bealach Ile Coire would bevery tricky to find.

A rough ascent leads to the grassy topof Druim Leac a’ Shith, the summit ofwhich is bypassed on the west side. A spectacular view of craggy Ben Adenand the length of Loch Quoich is revealed.

Descend via Meall Coire na Gaoithe’n Earto reach the lowest point between the twoMunros, the Bealach a’Choire Odhair.From here a sustained climb involvessome straightforward scrambling to gainthe east Top of Luinne Bheinn. The aerialview of Barrisdale Bay and Loch Hournwith Beinn Sgritheall towering beyond isheart-stopping. Continue past thesummit cairn to descend the ridge,

steeply in places, to Bachd Mhic anTosaich where the path peters out. Beforethe end of the ridge bear west downboggy slopes to reach an even wetterpath. This follows a line of old fencepoststo reach the cairn marking the high pointon the Mam Barrisdale pass.

You can join any hikers heading to

Inverie from Barrisdale by turning lefthere to follow the old, well-graded pathdownhill. By the time Loch an Dubh-Lochain is reached, the path hasdeteriorated into a boggy mess in places,but it improves once beside the loch.After the ruin a track soon rejoins theoutward route below the BrocketMemorial with a final gentle climb toreturn to Inverie.

Luinne Bheinn • Meall BhuideFort William


443442 Ladhar Bheinn from Luinne Bheinn


445

0 2km

Meall Buidhe

LadharBheinn

Cnuic nanEildean

Coire

Dhorrcail

Coire

Garbh Stob a’ Choire Odhair

Bealach Coire

Dhorrcail

AonachSgoilte

Sgurr CoireChoinnichean

Mam Suidheig

Abhainn nan Eil d ean

Loch an Dubh-Lochain

Barrisdale Bay

BrocketMemorial

Druim

G l e a n n a n D u b h - L o c h a i nM a m B a r r i s d a l e

Al lt C oir e To rr an Asgaill

Ab

ha i

nn

Bheag

Folach

444

Ladhar Bheinn (1020m) hill of the hoof

Distance 22.5kmAscent 1400mTime 9 – 12 hoursStart point OS Grid ref: NG765002Map OS Explorer 413Public transport bus or train to Mallaigthen ferry to Inverie (no road access)Terrain & hazards rough, rugged andremote, with pathless ascent to ridge andsome straightforward scrambling

A stunning and challenging circuit onwhat must rank as one of the very finestScottish hills. Breathtaking mountainand sea views, dramatic ridges and vastcrags falling into Coire Dhorrcail all addup to make a truly memorable Munroascent. (NB. There is no road access intoKnoydart from outside the area – see the introduction).

From the pier at Inverie head right topass the Old Forge pub. Follow thewaterside road past the village and thenturn up a track at a bend, signed forKinlochourn and Strathan. At the nextbend go right through a gate and followthe track, eventually passing below theprominent Brocket Memorial. Ignore thebranch for Gleann Meadail to the rightand continue towards Loch an Dubh-Lochain. From just before the loch up tothe Mam Suidheig bealach is a pathlessascent over awkward ground, particularlyin high summer when much of theground is covered in bracken. The climb is

Ladhar Bheinn

A’ Cruach LochBh’aomisaig

Inverie Bay

Inverie

The Old Forge

Inverie R iver

G l e a n n M e a d a i l

Ma

m U

idh

e

16Ladhar Bheinn


Alternatives A classic round of Ladhar Bheinn can bedone from Barrisdale Bay on the shores ofLoch Hourn. This is reached by a long up-and-down approach path from KinlochHourn; it is possible to camp at Barrisdaleor pay to stay in the private bothy. Thisroute involves some steep scrambling togain Stob a’Chearcaill before followingthe route described above to the summit.The descent is made via the Stob a’ChoireOdhair ridge.

often a hard slog and reaching the bealachis a relief. Follow the ridge east towardsAonach Sgoilte, with ever improvingviews in all directions. Bypass point 636mon a grassy rake and rejoin the ridge onthe climb beyond.

At the top of the next rise, at point758m, the ridge divides into two crests.Keep in the gap in the middle to descend agrassy gully before traversing right to pickup the next section of ridge; the left-handcrest ends in crags. On the next climb arocky section is avoided on the left beforereaching the flat summit of AonachSgoilite, marked by a small cairn.

The path widens here as walkerscoming up from Barrisdale join the route.Head northwest down the grassy slope tothe Bealach Coire Dhorrcail. The steepclimb beyond involves a couple of easyscrambles, with the views becoming evermore impressive with dramatic glimpsesdown into Coire Dhorrcail. An awkwardstep is needed to surmount a furtherrocky band, where shorter or lessconfident walkers may need a helpinghand, before the final walk up the summit cone.

Ladhar Bheinn has three summits; the

Stob a’ Choire Odhair ridge, the final armof the circuit of Coire Dhorrcail fromBarrisdale Bay, sweeps away to the rightfrom the first summit, providing afantastic background for posing photos.The true summit is the second top,marked by a small cairn, whilst the thirdhas what remains of a trig point. Thewhole ridge has some of Scotland’s bestviews, with the Cuillin of Skye providingthe final touch of magic.

The descent continues along the ridge,easily at first, becoming steeper beforereaching a bealach just short of a lochan.From here, aim southwest down steepslopes of grass and rock into Coire Garbh.As the gradient lessens, a clear but soggypath keeps to the left of the forestrybefore following the river downstream,passing the ruins at Folach. Go through agate to cross the bridge and join the trackfor the long plod back to Inverie. At the T-junction at Folach Gate turn left tofollow the track on through the MamUidhe. On the far side it descends throughmore forestry to return to Inverie; keepstraight on at a cross-tracks to emergenear the Old Forge pub – and after such awalk you deserve a pint!

446 447

The Seven Men of Knoydart and theKnoydart FoundationLike many places across the Highlands, theKnoydart Peninsula was cleared of tenantsin the mid-19th century, following a periodof misery caused by potato blight and thefailure of herring stocks; the tenants wereforced to emigrate to Canada and werereplaced by sheep. By the 1930s the estatewas owned by Lord Brocket – a formerConservative MP with strong Nazisympathies; he was reportedly friendly withRibbentrop and attended Hitler’s 50thbirthday party in 1939.

Knoydart was requisitioned during WorldWar Two for the training of commandosand SOE agents, but was returned in 1945 toBrocket who sacked many of the local staffand discouraged anyone who tried to enterthe peninsula. Tensions increased, and in1948 the Seven Men, some of themreturning soldiers, launched a land raid onthe estate and staked out new crofts.Despite public sympathy the Seven lost theeventual legal battle – and the land. A giantmemorial still commemorates Lord Brocketin the glen behind Inverie, and it wasn’tuntil 1981 that a second smaller memorialwas built in the village itself to rememberthe Seven Men and their fight for the land.

In 1999 the estate was bought by theKnoydart Foundation, a partnershipbetween local residents, Highland Council,neighbouring estates and the John Muirand Chris Brasher Trusts. Since then thecommunity’s fortunes have been revivedstrongly, and a new pier was opened to easeboat access in 2006.

Ladhar BheinnFort William


449448 Ladhar Bheinn and Loch Hourn


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