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ABBReVIATIONsB BotswanaFR Forest ReserveGP Game ParkGR Game ReserveL LesothoMal MalawiMoz MozambiqueN NamibiaNP National ParkNR National Reserve/Nature

ReserveS SwazilandSA South AfricaWA Wilderness AreaWR Wildlife ReserveWS Wildlife SanctuaryZam ZambiaZim Zimbabwe

NUMBeRs & sYMBOLs4WD travel, see four-wheel drive

travel/Ae//Gams Festival (N) 251/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier

Park (N) 304/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier

Park (SA) 489!Khwa ttu (SA) 373!Kung San (language) 726-7

Aabseiling 103, 333, 366, 368, 535accommodation 696-7, see also

individual locationsnational parks 690

activities 20, 697-9, see also adventure activities, individual activities

Addo Elephant NP (SA) 382-3adventure activities 16aerial sightseeing, see scenic flights

African National Congress (ANC) 491-5

African wild dogs 686Afrikaans (language) 724-5Agate Bay (N) 300-1Agulhas NP (SA) 359Ai-Ais Hot Springs (N) 304AIDS 645, 670-1, 720

Christian fight against 671-2in Botswana 77in Lesotho 107in Malawi 155, 157in Namibia 306-7, 310in South Africa 490women travellers 707

air travel 708-10, 713, see also scenic flights

Alto Molócuè (Moz) 206-7Amanzimtoti (SA) 408-9Amathole (SA) 385-8Amathole Trail (SA) 388amoebic dysentery 722amusement parks 397, 479Anglo-Boer Wars 429, 453, 491animals 653-68, 686-8, see also

wildlife, individual entriesAnn van Dyk Cheetah Centre (SA) 458apartheid 492, 493Apartheid Museum (SA) 442, 9aquariums 284, 329, 379, 397archaeological sites

Khami Ruins (Zim) 625Ondini (SA) 411Matopo National Park (Zim) 628Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art Centre

(SA) 484World’s View (Zim) 619

architecture 673-4art galleries, see also museums

Durban Art Gallery (SA) 397Hester Rupert Art Museum (SA) 389Johannesburg Art Gallery (SA) 438National Art Gallery (N) 250-1National Art Gallery (Zim) 625National Art Museum (Moz) 170National Gallery of Zimbabwe

(Zim) 604National Museum & Art Gallery

(B) 41Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art

Museum (SA) 379Oliewenhuis Art Museum (SA) 429Sasol Art Museum (SA) 349Tatham Art Gallery (SA) 424William Humphreys Art Gallery

(SA) 483arts 672-4, see also arts under indi-

vidual countries, individual artsfestivals 19-21, 41, 100, 258, 339,

383, 604

ATMs 703Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 487-8Aus (N) 299-300

BB&Bs 696baboons 656, 657Baines’ Baobabs (B) 54Bainskloof Pass (SA) 355ballooning 296Banda, Hastings Kamuzu 156Banda, Joyce 154-5, 157, 645Banda, Lucius 679Bangweulu Wetlands (Zam) 579-80Bantu people 648-51, 669, 677-8baobabs 54Barberton (SA) 466-7Barra (Moz) 189-90Basotho people 107, 651Basotholand Congress Party (BCP)

106bat-eared foxes 662, 662bathrooms 706Batonga people 677Batswana people 79Battle of Blood River (SA) 426,

428, 490Battle of Waterberg 307Battlefields (SA) 426-9Bazaruto Archipelago (Moz) 194-5beaches 16

Buffalo Bay (SA) 367Cabaceira Pequena (Moz) 213-14Cape Town (SA) 329, 332Chidenguele (Moz) 185-6Chikale Beach (Mal) 129Coastal Forest (SA) 415Coffee Bay (SA) 393Durban (SA) 397Macaneta Beach (Moz) 181Makuti Beach (Moz) 196Morrungulo Beach (Moz) 191Muizenberg Beach (SA) 333Murrébuè (Moz) 219Plettenberg Bay (SA) 370Ponta d’Ouro (Moz) 181Ponta Malongane (Moz) 181Port Alfred (SA) 384Port Elizabeth (SA) 379Swakopmund (N) 284Wilderness (SA) 366Wimbi Beach (Moz) 219Xai-Xai Beach (Moz) 185

bearded vultures 664, 665beer 676Beira (Moz) 196-9, 197Bela-Bela (Warmbaths) (SA) 472-3Bergville (SA) 419

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-C

Berlin Conference 650bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Hole Complex (SA) 483Biko, Steve 493Bilene (Moz) 183-4bilharzia 721Bird Island (N) 289birds 687-8, see also birdwatchingbirdwatching

books 688, 699Bvumba Mountains (Zim) 618Giant’s Castle (SA) 422Liuwa Plain NP (Zam) 576Malolotja NR (S) 524Mamili NP (N) 273Maputo Special Reserve (Moz) 183Mozambique 233Nata Bird Sanctuary (B) 51Nyika NP (Mal) 126Nylsvley NR (SA) 475South Africa 497St Lucia (SA) 414Victoria Falls 535Walvis Bay (N) 290Xakanaxa Lediba (B) 70

black market 703black rhinoceros 686Black Rock (SA) 415black-footed cats 654Blantyre (Mal) 144-51, 146, 148Bloemfontein (SA) 429-34, 432-3Blood River Monument (SA) 428Blyde River Canyon (SA) 467-8Blyde River Canyon NR (SA) 467boat travel 163, 164, 241, 642, 712,

714, see also boat trips, canoeing & kayaking, houseboating

boat trips, see also houseboatingBotswana 56, 61, 70-1Malawi 137-8, 141Mozambique 181-2, 192-3, 195, 219Namibia 290South Africa 337, 339, 363, 370,

401, 414Victoria Falls 536Zambia 569

Bocarro, Gaspar 649Boers, the 650, 652

in Botswana 77-8in Lesotho 105in South Africa 397, 426, 437, 453,

490-1in Swaziland 522, 525-6

Bogenfels (N) 304

Bokong NR (L) 102Bontebok NP (SA) 360books 644, 673, 699-700

art 674birdwatching 688, 699environment 699food 676health 719history 649, 650, 652, 700music 684plants 689, 699politics 700safaris 685San people 674wildlife 685, 699

border crossings 711, see also individual countries

Boskop people 647Botha, PW 492, 493Botswana 35, 40-93, 42-3, 48-9

accommodation 83-5activities 85arts 80border crossings 89-91business hours 85children, travel with 85climate 40customs regulations 85embassies 85-6environment 80-3food 86highlights 42-3history 77-9holidays 87itineraries 22, 27language 79, 726-7, 730-1maps 86money 86-7national parks 81-2postal services 87safety considerations 87-8telephone services 88tourist information 88travel seasons 40travel to/from 88-91travel within 91-3visas 88

Botswana Democratic Party (BDP) 79Boulders (SA) 333Bourke’s Luck Potholes (SA) 467bows 680Brandberg (N) 275-6break-bone fever 720British, the

in Botswana 77-8in Lesotho 105-6in South Africa 323, 491in Swaziland 525-6

in Zambia 587in Zimbabwe 632-3

Broken Hill Man 646budget 14Buffalo Bay (SA) 367buffalo fence 83buffaloes 658, 658Bulawayo (Zim) 625-8, 626Bulembu (S) 523Bulungula (SA) 394bungee jumping 377, 452, 535, 697Burnt Mountain (N) 276bus travel 714, 716-17Busanga Plains (Zam) 572bushbabies 656, 657Bushman’s Nek (SA) 424Bushveld (SA) 471-3bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 700, see also

individual countriesBvumba Mountains (Zim) 618-19Bwabwata NP (N) 270-1, 270

cCabaceira Grande (Moz) 213-14Cabaceira Pequena (Moz) 213-14Cahora Bassa Dam (Moz) 203-4Caia (Moz) 204Camdeboo NP (SA) 390-1camping 32-3, 696Cango Caves (SA) 362canoeing & kayaking 697-8

Botswana 68Malawi 129, 137, 159Namibia 290, 306South Africa 335, 366, 368, 384,

414, 501Victoria Falls 535Zambia 568, 569, 593Zimbabwe 615, 616

canyoning 333, 502Cape Agulhas (SA) 359Cape Argus Pick ‘n’ Pay Cycle Tour

(SA) 339Cape Cross Seal Reserve (N) 280cape fur seals 662, 662cape gannets 666, 666Cape Maclear (Mal) 136-9, 137Cape of Good Hope (SA) 333Cape Point (SA) 333Cape Town (SA) 323-49, 326-7,

330-1, 334-5, 336, 338accommodation 339-42activities 333-7attractions 323-33drinking 344-5emergency services 346entertainment 345-6

745IN

deX C-D

festivals 339food 342-4history 323internet access 346medical services 346-7money 347postal services 347safety considerations 347shopping 346tourist information 347tours 337-9travel to/from 347-8travel within 348-9

Cape Town Minstrel Carnival (SA) 339Cape Vidal (SA) 414Capricorn (SA) 470-1car travel 15, 711, 714-16

bush driving 15, 32-3hazards 716hire 714-15insurance 711, 715purchase 715-16road conditions 716rules 716to/from Southern Africa 711-12within Southern Africa 714-16

caracals 654, 654cash 703Cathedral Peak NR (SA) 421cathedrals, see churches & cathedralscaves

Bathplug Cave (SA) 423Battle Cave (SA) 422Cango Caves (SA) 362Chimanimani NP (Zim) 622Echo Caves (SA) 467Gobholo Cave (S) 520Main Cave (SA) 422Makapan’s Caves (SA) 472Stadsaal Caves (SA) 374Sterkfontein Caves (SA) 452

Cederberg WA (SA) 373-4, 18cell phones 15, 705Central Berg (SA) 420-2Central Kalahari GR (B) 72-5Central Karoo (SA) 371-2Chachacha Rebellion 587chacma baboons 656, 657Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte

(Moz) 210-11Charters Creek (SA) 414-15cheetahs 47, 654, 655Chewa (language) 725Chidenguele (Moz) 185-6Chiefs Island (B) 70children, travel with 700-1, see also

individual countriesChilembwe, John 156

Chiluba, Frederick 588, 589Chimanimani (Zim) 620-1, 621Chimanimani Mountains (Moz) 202Chimanimani NP (Zim) 621-2, 621Chimanimani NR (Moz) 202Chimanimani Transfrontier

Conservation Area (Moz) 202Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage (Zam)

585-6Chimoio (Moz) 200-1Chimpanzee Eden (SA) 464chimpanzees 585chimurenga 679, 682Chingola (Zam) 585Chintsa (SA) 391-3Chipata (Zam) 561Chirundu (Zam) 566-7Chizumulu Island (Mal) 132Chobe NP (B) 9, 54-61, 55, 9Chobe Riverfront (B) 58-9Chocas (Moz) 213-14cholera 719-20Choma (Zam) 571Christianity 671-2churches & cathedrals

Beira Cathedral (Moz) 196Cathedral of St Peter (Mal) 131CCAP Church (Mal) 145Chapel of Nossa Senhora de

Baluarte (Moz) 210-11Christuskirche (N) 245Church of St Francis of Assisi

(Zim) 622Dutch Reformed Church (SA) 358Felsenkirche (N) 300Mission Church (Mal) 124

Citrusdal (SA) 374Clanwilliam (SA) 374-5Clarens (SA) 435-6climate 14, 19-21, see also individual

countriesclimate change 709Coastal Forest (SA) 415Cóbuè (Moz) 217-18Coetzee, JM 497, 649Coffee Bay (SA) 393-4colonialism 649, 651-2

in Botswana 78in Malawi 155in Mozambique 229in Namibia 307-8in South Africa 490-2in Zambia 587in Zimbabwe 632-3

Constitution Hill (SA) 439consulates 702, see also individual

countriesConvention for a Democratic South

Africa (Codesa) 493

courses 315, 504Cradle of Humankind (SA) 452Craveirinha, José 230credit cards 703cricket 496, 608, 635crocodiles 258cruises, see boat tripsCuamba (Moz) 214-15culture 16, 669-76, see also individual

countriescurrency 14, 703-4, see also moneycustoms regulations, see individual

countriescycling 699, 710-11, 713-14

Cape Town (SA) 333-4, 337, 339Franschhoek (SA) 354Knysna (SA) 369Likoma Island (Mal) 131Namibia 319Parys (SA) 434South Africa 507, 510Soweto (SA) 452Viphya Plateau (Mal) 132-3

dda Gama, Vasco 648Damara (language) 726Damaraland (N) 275-82dance 674dangers, see safety considerationsDavid Livingstone Memorial (Zam)

579De Hoop NR (SA) 358Dead Vlei (N) 296deep vein thrombosis 719dengue fever 720desert hiking 34, see also hikingdhow safaris 192-3, 219diamonds 77, 78, 303, 483diarrhoea 722Diaz Point (N) 301-2difaqane 77, 651dinosaur fossils 104, 122disabilities, travellers with 706discount cards 707District Six Museum (SA) 323diving & snorkelling 698

Aliwal Shoal (SA) 408Bazaruto Archipelago (Moz) 195Cape Maclear (Mal) 137Cape Town (SA) 334Durban (SA) 400Kosi Bay (SA) 415Likoma Island (Mal) 131Mossel Bay (SA) 364Nkhata Bay (Mal) 129Pemba (Moz) 219Ponta d’Ouro (Moz) 181

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diving & snorkelling continuedPort Alfred (SA) 384Port Elizabeth (SA) 379Sodwana Bay (SA) 415South Coast (SA) 408Tofo (Moz) 188Vilankulo (Moz) 192

Dolphin Coast (SA) 409dolphins 181-2Dombo Hippo Pool (B) 70Dorob NP (N) 280, 291Dow, Unity 80Drakensberg (SA) 11, 416-24,

418-19, 11Drakensberg Escarpment (SA)

467-70, 468drinks 674-6, see also beer, individual

countries, wineriesdriving, see car travel, four-wheel

drive traveldrums 680dunes

Dune 7 (N) 289Dune 45 (N) 296Elim Dune (N) 296Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

(B) 75Sossusvlei (N) 296Swakopmund (N) 284

Durban (SA) 395-408, 398-9, 402-3accommodation 401-5activities 400-1attractions 397-400drinking 406emergency services 406entertainment 406food 405-6history 397internet access 406medical services 407money 407postal services 407safety considerations 407tourist information 407travel to/from 407-8travel within 408

Dutch, thein South Africa 323, 724

Duwisib Castle (N) 299Dwarsrivier Farm (SA) 374

eeagles 664, 664East Caprivi Strip (N) 270

East London (SA) 385-7, 386-7Eastern Cape (SA) 375-95, 376Eastern Karoo (SA) 388-91Eastern Lowveld (SA) 458-67, 468Eastern Shores (SA) 414Echo Caves (SA) 467economy 644-5, 670Elandsberg Rooibos Estate (SA)

374-5electricity 697, 702Elephant Coast (SA) 412-16elephants 660, 687, 12, 661Elim (SA) 476Elim Dune (N) 296Elizabeth Bay (N) 304Emakhosini Ophathe Heritage Park

(SA) 412embassies 702, see also individual

countriesendangered species 498, 686-7environment 685-94

books 699environmental issues

animal welfare 691climate change 709elephant culling 687endangered species 498, 686-7hunting 691internet resources 645, 686, 690introduced species 689ivory trade 687overfishing 645poaching 686-7, 691responsible travel 700-1

Epupa (N) 278-9Epworth Balancing Rocks (Zim) 612Erongo Mountains (Erongoberg)

(N) 257-8Eshowe (SA) 410-11ethnicity 669Etosha NP (N) 6, 263-6, 264, 7Etosha Pan (N) 263European settlement, see colonialismevents, see festivalsEzulwini Valley (S) 518-21, 519

ffamine 107Fani’s Island (SA) 414-15Fernkloof NR (SA) 357festivals 19-21, see also individual

countries/Ae//Gams Festival (N) 251Artist’s Trail (N) 258arts 41, 100, 258, 339, 383, 604Cape Argus Pick ‘n’ Pay Cycle Tour

(SA) 339Cape Town International Jazz

Festival (SA) 339

Cape Town Minstrel Carnival (SA) 339

Cherry Festival (SA) 436cultural 251film 19, 20, 21food & drink 251, 367, 436Fringe Festival (SA) 383Harare International Festival of Arts

(Zim) 604Hermanus Whale Festival

(SA) 356Kuomboka ceremony (Zam)

575, 576Maitisong Festival (B) 41Morija Arts & Cultural Festival

(L) 100music 339, 679, 680, 682National Arts Festival (SA) 383Obs Arts Festival (SA) 339Oktoberfest (N) 251Oyster Festival (SA) 367Pink Loerie Festival (SA) 367Windhoek Karnival (N) 251Zimbabwe Fashion Week

(Zim) 604Ficksburg (SA) 436filariasis 720film 644, 680, 682, 684

festivals 19, 20, 21fish eagles 664, 664Fish River Canyon (N) 8, 304-5, 8fishing 698

Lesotho 108Malawi 159Mozambique 184, 204South Africa 395, 400, 434Victoria Falls 535-6Zambia 568, 593Zimbabwe 614, 615, 619

flamingos 290, 666flightseeing, see scenic flightsfloods 670food 674-6, 702, see also individual

countriesbooks 676etiquette 675festivals 367, 436shortages 670

football 157, 329, 496Fouriesburg (SA) 436four-wheel drive travel 18, 32-3,

34, 90Francistown (B) 47-9, 50Franklin GR (SA) 429Franschhoek (SA) 353-5Free State (SA) 428-36, 430-1Freedom Park (SA) 453Frelimo 229-30fynbos zone 688

747IN

deX G-H

gGaborone (B) 41-6, 44, 46

accommodation 41attractions 41emergency services 45festivals 41food 41-5internet access 45medical services 45shopping 45tourist information 45tours 41travel to/from 45-6travel within 46

Galeshewe township (SA) 484galleries, see art galleriesGame Breeding Centre (SA) 471-2game parks, see wildlife reserves &

sanctuariesGame Pass Shelter (SA) 423Gamkaskloof NR (SA) 372gannets 666, 666Gansbaai (SA) 358Garden Route (SA) 363-71, 364-5Garden Route NP (SA) 375-7Garden Route NP (Wilderness

Section) (SA) 367gardens & parks

Company’s Gardens (SA) 323Durban Botanic Gardens (SA) 400Freedom Park (SA) 453Harare Gardens (Zim) 604Kings Walden (SA) 477Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens

(SA) 332Lowveld National Botanical Garden

(SA) 464Lusaka Botanical Gardens (Zam)

552National Botanical Garden (SA)

458Naval Hill (SA) 429Zoo Park (N) 245

Gauteng (SA) 436-58, 438-9Gautrain (SA) 450gay travellers 671, 702geography 17, 685geology 17, 685George (SA) 365-6Germans, the

in Namibia 245, 260-1, 307-8Giant’s Castle (SA) 421-2Giant’s Cup Trail (SA) 423giardiasis 722giraffes 660, 660Goa Island (Moz) 211Goanikontes (N) 287Gobabis Hill (B) 59Goegap NR (SA) 488

Gokomere people 648, 649Golden Gate Highlands NP (SA) 435golf 477, 618-19Gonarezhou NP (Zim) 624-5Gondwana Cañon Park (N) 305-6Gordimer, Nadine 496, 673Gore-Brown, Stewart 581, 582Gorongosa NP (Moz) 199-200goshawks 664, 665gospel music 682Goukamma NR (SA) 367Graaff-Reinet (SA) 388-90, 389Grahamstown (SA) 383-4Graskop (SA) 468-9Great East Rd (Zam) 561Great Fish Point Lighthouse (SA) 384Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park

(Moz) 184Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park

(Zim) 624-5Great Rift Valley 685Great Trek, the 490, 650, 652Great Zimbabwe (Zim) 13, 622-4,

632, 648, 650, 623, 13, 648greater galagos 656, 657Grootfontein (N) 260-1Grosse Bucht (N) 302Guebuza, Armando 228guesthouses 696Gurúè (Moz) 206Gweta (B) 53Gwisho Hot Springs (Zam) 571

hHa Kome cave houses (L) 95Haenertsburg (SA) 476Halifax Island (N) 302handicrafts, see artshang gliding 501hamerkops 666, 667Hamilton Hills (N) 292Harare (Zim) 604-12, 606-7, 610-11

accommodation 604-5attractions 604drinking 607emergency services 609entertainment 607-8festivals 604food 605-7internet access 609medical services 609postal services 609safety considerations 609shopping 608-9tourist information 609-11travel to/from 611travel within 612

Hartmann’s Valley (N) 279

Hazyview (SA) 465-6Head, Bessie 80health 718-23

books 719environmental hazards 722-3infectious diseases 719-22insurance 718internet resources 719services 719travellers’ diarrhoea 722vaccinations 718

heat exhaustion 722heatstroke 722hepatitis 720Herero (language) 726Herero people 651Hermanus (SA) 356-8Hertzog, General Barry 491-2Hidden Vlei (N) 296Highmoor NR (SA) 422hiking 17, 698-9, 700-1

/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park (SA) 489

Amathole Trail (SA) 388Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 488Blyde River Canyon (SA) 467Cape Maclear (Mal) 138Cape Town (SA) 334-5Cederberg WA (SA) 373-4, 18Chimanimani Mountains (Moz) 202Chimanimani NP (Zim) 621-2De Hoop NR (SA) 358desert 34Drakensberg (SA) 417Epupa (N) 278-9Fish River Canyon (N) 304-5Garden Route NP (SA) 375Giant’s Cup Trail (SA) 423Golden Gate Highlands NP (SA)

435Gurúè (Moz) 206Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park (SA) 412Kruger NP (SA) 459Letaba Valley (SA) 476Malealea (L) 103Malolotja NR (S) 524Marloth NR (SA) 358-9Montagu (SA) 361Mossel Bay (SA) 364Mt Gorongosa (Moz) 200Mt Mulanje (Mal) 151Naukluft Mountains (N) 294Nyika NP (Mal) 126Royal Natal NP (SA) 419-20safaris 34Sani Top (L) 101Sehlabathebe NP (L) 102-3Sentinel Hiking Trail (SA) 435

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hiking continuedShipwreck Coast (SA) 385Skeleton Coast Park (N) 280Soutpansberg Mountains (SA) 474Strandloper Trail (SA) 387Swartberg NR (SA) 372Swellendam (SA) 359Table Mountain NP (SA) 340Ts’ehlanyane NP (L) 102Tsitsikamma (SA) 375Zomba Plateau (Mal) 145

Himba (language) 726Himba people 277-8, 3Himeville (SA) 423Hinduism 672hip-hop 684hippopotamuses 70, 660, 668history 646-52, see also individual

countriesbooks 649, 650, 652, 700internet resources 647music 677-9

hitching 716HIV, see AIDSHlane Royal NP (S) 524Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park (SA) 412-13Hoba Meteorite (N) 261Hodgson’s Peaks (L) 101Hogsback (SA) 387-8holidays, see individual countrieshoodia 675horse riding 699

Lesotho 102-3Malawi 143Namibia 284-5South Africa 354, 359, 382, 384,

393, 420, 421, 475Victoria Falls 536

hostels 696-7hot springs

Ai-Ais Hot Springs (N) 304Bela-Bela (Warmbaths)

(SA) 472-3Gwisho Hot Springs (Zam) 571Kapishya Hot Springs (Zam) 581Montagu (SA) 360

hot-air ballooning 296hotels 697Hottentots, see Khoikhoi peoplehouseboating 373, 613-14hunting 691hunting dogs 662Hwange NP (Zim) 537, 629-31, 630hyenas 662, 663

IIbo Island (Moz) 224-6immigration 708impalas 658Incwala 522independence

Botswana 78-9Lesotho 106Malawi 156Mozambique 229Namibia 309-10Swaziland 526Zambia 587-8Zimbabwe 633-4

infectious diseases 719-22Inhaca Island (Moz) 180-1Inhambane (Moz) 186-8, 187Inhassoro (Moz) 195-6Injisuthi (SA) 422Inkwenkwezi GR (SA) 391Inner Delta (B) 68-70insect bites 722-3insurance 702-3

car 711, 715health 718

internet access 703internet resources 15

air tickets 709environmental issues 645, 686,

690health 719history 647music 677, 678, 679, 682, 683transfrontier parks 692wildlife 686

Isandlwana (SA) 427-8isicathimiya 678iSimangaliso Wetland Park (SA)

413-16Islam 672Ithala GR (SA) 412itineraries 22-7ivory trade 687Iziko Slave Lodge (SA) 328

Jjackass penguins 666, 666jazz 339, 439, 679, 681, 682Jazz on the Lake (SA) 682Jeffrey’s Bay (SA) 377-8jet lag 719Johannesburg (SA) 437-51, 440-1,

444-5accommodation 443-6activities 437-42attractions 437-42drinking 447-8emergency services 449

entertainment 448food 446-7history 437internet access 449medical services 449money 449postal services 449safety considerations 449tourist information 449tours 442-3travel to/from 449-50travel within 450-1

Jonathan, Leabua 106Judaism 672Juma Mosque (SA) 399-400

KKafue Flats (Zam) 571Kafue NP (Zam) 572-5, 573Kakamas (SA) 487Kalahari Gemsbok NP (B) 75Kalahari, the (B) 72-6, 80-1, 73Kalambo Falls (Zam) 583kalindula 682-3Kamberg NR (SA) 423Kamkwamba, William 160Kaokoveld (N) 277-80Kapiri Mposhi (Zam) 584Kariba Town (Zim) 613-14Karonga (Mal) 122Karoo NP (SA) 372, 689Kasama (Zam) 581-2Kasane (B) 54-8, 56-7Kasanka NP (Zam) 578-9Katete (Zam) 561Katima Mulilo (N) 271-2Katutura (N) 249, 680Kaunda, Kenneth 587-8Kawaza Village (Zam) 565kayaking, see canoeing & kayakingKeetmanshoop (N) 299Kei Mouth (SA) 394Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (B)

11, 75-6Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (SA) 11,

486-7, 486, 11Khama Rhino Sanctuary (B) 47Khama, Seretse 78-9Khami Ruins (Zim) 625Khaudum NP (N) 269Khoikhoi people 647Khoisan people 323, 647Khutse GR (B) 75Kimberley (SA) 483-5kite surfing 193, 223, 233, 401, 697Kitwe (Zam) 585Klein Bogenfels (N) 302klipspringers 658, 659

749IN

deX K-L

kloofing 333, 502Knysna (SA) 367-70, 368Kolmanskop Ghost Town (N) 303Kosi Bay (SA) 415-16Kruger NP (SA) 458-63, 462Kruger, Paul 454Kubu Island (B) 51Kuiseb Canyon (N) 292Kuomboka ceremony 575, 576kwaito 679, 683kwasa kwasa 684KwaZulu-Natal (SA) 395-428, 396kwela 679

LLadysmith (SA) 426-7Ladysmith Black Mambazo 678L’Agulhas (SA) 359Lake Fundudzi (SA) 476Lake Itezhi-Tezhi (Zam) 572Lake Kariba (Zam) 569, 570Lake Kariba (Zim) 613Lake Malawi (Mal) 13, 136, 685, 13Lake Malawi NP (Mal) 136-9Lake Niassa (Lake Malawi) (Moz)

216-18Lake of Stars Malawi Music Festival

679Lake Oponono (N) 266Lake Sibaya (SA) 415Lake St Lucia (SA) 413Lake Waka-Waka (Zam) 579Lala Nek (SA) 415Langebaan Lagoon (SA) 373languages 14, 724-35

!Kung San 726-7Afrikaans 724-5Chewa 725clicking 726courses 315, 504Damara 726Herero 726Himba 726Lozi 727Nama 726Ndebele 727Northern Sotho (Sepedi) 727Owambo 728Portuguese 728-9Shona 729Southern Sotho (Sesotho) 730Swati 730Tsonga 730Tswana 730-1Venda 731Xhosa 731Zulu 731

lappet-faced vultures 664

Lealui (Zam) 575, 576Leopard Rock (B) 59leopards 654, 655lesbian travellers 671, 702Lesotho 35, 94-111, 96-7

accommodation 94, 108activities 94, 108-9arts 107-8border crossings 110business hours 109climate 94culture 107customs regulations 109electricity 110embassies 109environment 108festivals 109food 109highlights 96-7history 105-7holidays 109language 109, 730money 109national parks 108safety considerations 110telephone services 110tourist information 110travel seasons 94travel to/from 110-11travel within 111visas 110

Lesotho Congress for Democracy (LCD) 106-7

Letaba Valley (SA) 476-7lichen fields (N) 287Lichinga (Moz) 215-16Likoma Island (Mal) 131-2lilac-breasted rollers 666Liliesleaf Farm (SA) 437Lilongwe (Mal) 114-22, 114-15, 118

accommodation 115-17activities 115attractions 115drinking 119emergency services 120entertainment 119food 118-19internet access 120itineraries 117medical services 120money 120postal services 120safety considerations 120-1shopping 119-20tourist information 121travel to/from 121-2travel within 122

Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary (Mal) 115

Lilongwe Wildlife Centre (Mal) 115Limbe (Mal) 144-51, 146Limpopo (SA) 470-8, 472-3Limpopo NP (Moz) 184-5Limulunga (Zam) 575, 576Linyanti Marshes (B) 60-1lions 654, 11, 654literature 673, see also books

Botswanan 80Mozambican 230South African 496-7Zimbabwean 636

Liuwa Plain NP (Zam) 576Living Hunter’s Museum of the

Ju/Hoansi (N) 274Living Museum (N) 258Livingstone (Zam) 538-48, 540

accommodation 538-42eating & drinking 542shopping 542sights & activities 538-9travel to/from 543

Livingstone, David 539, 579, 587, 671Livingstone Island (Zam) 538-9Livingstone Museum (Zam) 539Livingstonia (Mal) 122-5Liwonde (Mal) 139-41Liwonde NP (Mal) 141-2Liwonde Rhino Sanctuary (Mal) 141Lizard Island (Mal) 135lizards 688Lizauli Traditional Village (N) 273Lobamba (S) 521Lochinvar NP (Zam) 571-2Louis Trichardt (Makhado) (SA) 473-4Lower Shire (Mal) 153-4Lower Zambezi NP (Zam) 567-9, 567Lower Zambezi Valley (Zam) 567-9,

567Lozi (language) 727Lozi people 575, 576, 587, 589Luangwa Bridge (Zam) 561Luangwa River (Zam) 562Lüderitz (N) 300-3, 301Lüderitz, Adolf 307Lusaka (Zam) 552-60, 554-5

accommodation 552-7attractions 552drinking 557-8emergency services 558entertainment 557-8food 557internet access 558medical services 558money 558safety considerations 558shopping 558telephone services 558-9

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

750

INdeX L-M

Lusaka (Zam) continuedtourist information 559travel to/from 559-60travel within 560

MMabuasehube (B) 75Macaloé Island (Moz) 224Macaneta Beach (Moz) 181Machel, Samora 229, 230Madiba, see Mandela, NelsonMadikwe GR (SA) 481Mafeteng (L) 103-4Mafikeng (SA) 481magazines 697Magoebaskloof Pass (SA) 476Mahango GR (N) 270Majete WR (Mal) 12, 153-4, 12Majongwe, Raymond 682Makapan’s Caves (SA) 472Makgadikgadi Pans NP (B) 53-4, 52Makololo people 651Makonde people 225Malangatana 231malaria 720-1Malawi 36, 112-66, 113, 123, 140

accommodation 112, 158-9activities 159border crossings 131, 163-4business hours 160children, travel with 160climate 112culture 157customs regulations 160embassies 160environment 158festivals 160food & drink 112, 158, 160highlights 113history 155-7holidays 160-1internet access 161language 725money 161national parks 158postal services 161safety considerations 161-2telephone services 162tourist information 162tours 166travel seasons 112travel to/from 162-4travel within 164-6visas 162

Malawisaurus 122Malealea (L) 12, 103, 12Malindidzimu Hill (Zim) 628Malkerns Valley (S) 521-3Malolotja NR (S) 523-4Mamili NP (N) 273Mana Pools Game Count (Zim)

615-16Mana Pools NP (Zim) 615-16Mandela House Museum (SA) 451Mandela, Nelson 451, 492, 493, 494Mandimba (Moz) 215Mangaung township (SA) 429Manica (Moz) 201-2Mantenga NR (S) 521Manyeleti WR (SA) 463Manzini (S) 522-3Mapfumo, Thomas 679, 682mapiko 226maps 703Mapungubwe NP (SA) 475Maputo (Moz) 170-80, 172-3

accommodation 171-6activities 171attractions 170-1children, travel with 171drinking 177emergency services 178entertainment 177festivals & events 171food 176-7internet access 178medical services 178money 178postal services 178safety considerations 178-9shopping 178tours 171travel to/from 179travel within 179-80visas 179

Maputo Special Reserve (Moz) 183Marakele NP (SA) 475Maravi people 650-1Margate (SA) 409Marienflüss Valley (N) 279marine parks & reserves

Inhaca Island (Moz) 180Quilaluia (Moz) 224Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve

(SA) 371Tsitsikamma (SA) 375

Marloth NR (SA) 358-9Maropeng (SA) 452marrabenta 19, 231, 684Marracuene (Moz) 181Masekela, Hugh Ramopolo 681Maseru (L) 95-9, 98-9

Massinga (Moz) 191Masvingo (Zim) 622Matabele people 651Matemo Island (Moz) 224-5Mathambo, Spoek 684Matlapaneng (B) 61-8, 67Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628-9Matusadona NP (Zim) 614-15Maun (B) 61-8, 64, 67Mavuradonha Wilderness (Zim) 617Maxixe (Moz) 190Mbabane (S) 517-18, 517Mbala (Zam) 582Mbeki, Thabo 494-5mbiras 680Mboma Island (B) 70measures 697medical services 719Medjumbe Island (Moz) 224-5meerkats 662, 653Meiringspoort Pass (SA) 362, 372Metangula (Moz) 216-17Mfuwe (Zam) 562Midlands (SA) 424-6Milange (Moz) 206Mission Rocks (SA) 414missionaries 137Mkhaya GR (S) 13, 524-5, 13Mlawula NR (S) 524Mlilwane WS (S) 518-19mobile phones 15, 705Moçimboa da Praia (Moz) 226-7Mocuba (Moz) 205-6Modjadji NR (SA) 477Mohale’s Hoek (L) 104Mokala NP (SA) 485Mokhotlong (L) 101Mokolodi NR (B) 46-7Mokoomba 679, 683Mokopane (SA) 471-2mokoro trips 68Mondesa township (N) 285Mondlane, Eduardo 229money 14-15, 703-4, see also

individual countriesMongu (Zam) 575Monkey Bay (Mal) 136monkeys 656, 656Monk’s Cowl (SA) 421Montagu (SA) 360-3Montepuez (Moz) 219Moon Landscape (N) 287Moremi GR (B) 70-2, 71Morgan’s Bay (SA) 394Morija (L) 99-100Morija Arts & Cultural Festival (L) 100Morrungulo Beach (Moz) 191Moshoeshoe the Great 105

751IN

deX MMosi-oa-Tunya GP (Zam) 537, 539Mosi-oa-Tunya NP (Zam) 538, 546-7mosques 399-400Mossel Bay (SA) 363-5Mossuril (Moz) 213-14motorcycle travel 711, 714-16mountain biking, see cyclingMozambique 36, 167-243, 168-9

accommodation 232-3activities 233arts 230-1border crossings 238-40business hours 233children, travel with 233-4climate 167customs regulations 234embassies 234environment 232food & drink 231-2, 234highlights 168-9history 228-30holidays 236language 730legal matters 234-5maps 235money 235-6national parks 232safety considerations 236-7telephone services 237tours 243travel seasons 167travel to/from 237-41travel within 241-3visas 237

Mozambique Island (Moz) 10, 210-13, 211, 10

Mpalila Island (N) 272Mphaki (L) 104Mpulungu (Zam) 583Mpumalanga (SA) 458-70, 460-1Mswati III 525Mt Binga (Moz) 202Mt Binga (Zim) 621Mt Gorongosa (Moz) 200Mt Moorosi (L) 104Mt Mulanje (Mal) 151-3, 152Mt Namúli (Moz) 206Mtukudzi, Oliver 679Mua Mission (Mal) 134Mudumu NP (N) 272-3Mueda (Moz) 226Mueda massacre 226, 229Mugabe, Robert 633-5Mukuvisi Woodlands Environmental

Centre (Zim) 604Mulanje (Mal) 151Munda Wanga Environmental Park

(Zam) 552

Murrébuè (Moz) 219, 223-4museums, see also art galleries

Afrikaans Language Museum (SA) 355

Albany History Museum (SA) 383Amathole Museum (SA) 388Anglo-Boer War Museum (SA) 429Apartheid Museum (SA) 442, 9Bakone Malapa Open-Air Museum

(SA) 471Basotho Cultural Village (SA) 435Bayworld (SA) 379Big Hole Complex (SA) 483Blood River Museum (SA) 428Bo-Kaap Museum (SA) 328Campbell Collections (SA) 400Castle of Good Hope (SA) 323Chamare Museum (Mal) 134Choma Museum (Zam) 571Copperbelt Museum (Zam) 584CP Nel Museum (SA) 362Dias Museum Complex (SA) 364District Six Museum (SA) 323Drostdy Museum (SA) 358East London Museum (SA) 385Fort Nongqayi Museum Village

(SA) 411Geology Museum (Moz) 170George Museum (SA) 365George Transport Museum (SA)

365German Fort & Museum (N) 260-1Great Zimbabwe Museum (Zim) 622Hector Pieterson Museum (SA) 452Hugh Exton Photographic Museum

(SA) 471Huguenot Memorial Museum

(SA) 353Iziko Slave Lodge (SA) 328Kruger Museum (SA) 454KwaMuhle Museum (SA) 397KwaZulu Cultural-Historical

Museum (SA) 411Lighthouse Museum (SA) 359Liliesleaf Farm (SA) 437Living Hunter’s Museum of the

Ju/Hoansi (N) 274Living Museum (N) 258Livingstone Museum (Zam) 539Lüderitz Museum (N) 300Mafikeng Museum (SA) 481Mandela House Museum (SA) 451Maropeng (SA) 452Montagu Museum (SA) 360Morija Museum & Archives (L)

99-100Moto Moto Museum (Zam) 582Msunduzi Museum (SA) 424Museum Africa (SA) 439Mutare Museum (Zim) 617

Nakambale House (N) 266National Archives of Zimbabwe

(Zim) 604National English Literacy Museum

(SA) 383National Ethnography Museum

(Moz) 207National Money Museum (Moz) 170National Museum (Mal) 145National Museum (S) 521National Museum (SA) 429National Museum (Zam) 552National Museum & Art Gallery

(B) 41National Museum of Namibia (N)

248-9Natural History Museum (Moz) 170Natural History Museum (Zim) 625Natural Science Museum (SA) 397Nayuma Museum (Zam) 575Ncome Museum (SA) 428Nyanga Historical Exhibition

(Zim) 619Observatory Museum (SA) 383Old Courthouse Museum (SA) 398Owela Museum (N) 249Owl House (SA) 391Paarl Museum (SA) 355Palace & Chapel of São Paulo

(Moz) 210Pilgrim’s Rest (SA) 470Pioneer Museum (SA) 456Port Natal Maritime Museum

(SA) 399Reinet House (SA) 389Robben Island (SA) 329SAB World of Beer (SA) 439Smuts House Museum (SA) 458South African Jewish Museum

(SA) 329South African National Gallery

(SA) 328South End Museum (SA) 379Stone House Museum (Mal) 124Swakopmund Museum (N) 283-4Trans-Namib Transport Museum

(N) 249-50Tsumeb Mining Museum (N) 262Tzaneen Museum (SA) 477Village Museum (SA) 349Walvis Bay Museum (N) 289Winterton Museum (SA) 420

music 677-84books 684festivals 19-21, 339, 679, 680, 682films 680, 682, 684history 677-9internet resources 677, 678, 679,

682, 683politics 678-9

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

752

INdeX M

-N

musical instruments 679-80Musina (Messina) (SA) 474-5Musina NR (SA) 474musiro 210Mutare (Zim) 617, 618Mutharika, Bingu wa 154, 157Mutinondo Wilderness (Zam) 580-1mutu 672Mzuzu (Mal) 127-9, 128

NNacala (Moz) 214Nama (language) 726Nama people 651Namaacha (Moz) 183Namakwa (SA) 488-9Namaqua NP (SA) 488Namibia 36, 244-321, 246-7

accommodation 313-14activities 314arts 258, 311border crossings 269, 271, 272,

317-18business hours 314-15climate 244courses 315culture 310-11customs regulations 315embassies 315environment 312-13festivals 315food & drink 311-12, 315highlights 246-7history 307-10holidays 316internet access 315language 726-7, 728maps 315-16money 316national parks 313postal services 316safety considerations 316telephone services 316-17tourist information 317tours 320-1travel seasons 244travel to/from 317-18travel within 318-21visas 317women travellers 317

Namib-Naukluft Park (N) 291-6, 292-3NamibRand NR (N) 298Nampula (Moz) 207-10, 208Nata (B) 51-3

Nata Bird Sanctuary (B) 51National Botanical Garden (SA) 458National Heroes’ Acre (Zim) 604national parks & nature reserves

689-92, see also private wildlife & conservation reserves, trans-frontier parks, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

accommodation 690Addo Elephant NP (SA) 382-3Agulhas NP (SA) 359Augrabies Falls NP (SA) 487-8Blyde River Canyon NR (SA) 467Bontebok NP (SA) 360Bwabwata NP (N) 270-1, 270Camdeboo NP (SA) 390-1Cathedral Peak NR (SA) 421Cederberg WA (SA) 373-4, 18Chimanimani NP (Zim) 621-2, 621Chimanimani NR (Moz) 202Chobe NP (B) 9, 54-61, 55, 9De Hoop NR (SA) 358Dlinza FR (SA) 411Dorob NP (N) 280, 291Etosha NP (N) 6, 263-6, 264, 7Fernkloof NR (SA) 357Gamkaskloof NR (SA) 372Garden Route NP (SA) 375-7Garden Route NP (Wilderness

Section) (SA) 367Goegap NR (SA) 488Golden Gate Highlands NP (SA)

435Gonarezhou NP (Zim) 624-5Gondwana Cañon Park (N) 305-6Gorongosa NP (Moz) 199-200Goukamma NR (SA) 367Highmoor NR (SA) 422Hlane Royal NP (S) 524Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park (SA) 412-13Hwange NP (Zim) 537, 629-31, 630iSimangaliso Wetland Park (SA)

413-16Kafue NP (Zam) 572-5, 573Kalahari Gemsbok NP (B) 75Kamberg NR (SA) 423Karoo NP (SA) 372, 689Kasanka NP (Zam) 578-9Khaudum NP (N) 269Kruger NP (SA) 458-63, 462Lake Malawi NP (Mal) 136-9Limpopo NP (Moz) 184-5Liuwa Plain NP (Zam) 576Liwonde NP (Mal) 141-2Lochinvar NP (Zam) 571-2Lower Zambezi NP (Zam) 567-9,

567Makgadikgadi Pans NP (B) 53-4, 52Malolotja NR (S) 523-4

Mamili NP (N) 273Mana Pools NP (Zim) 615-16Mantenga NR (S) 521Mapungubwe NP (SA) 475Marakele NP (SA) 475Marloth NR (SA) 358-9Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628-9Matusadona NP (Zim) 614-15Mlawula NR (S) 524Modjadji NR (SA) 477Mokala NP (SA) 485Mokolodi NR (B) 46-7Mosi-oa-Tunya NP (Zam) 538,

546-7Mudumu NP (N) 272-3Musina NR (SA) 474Namaqua NP (SA) 488Namib-Naukluft Park (N) 291-6,

292-3Niassa Reserve (Moz) 218-19North Luangwa NP (Zam) 566Nsumbu (Sumbu) NP (Zam) 583-4Nxai Pan NP (B) 54, 52Nyanga NP (Zim) 619-20Nyika NP (Mal) 125-6, 125Nylsvley NR (SA) 475Oribi Gorge NR (SA) 409Paarl Mountain NR (SA) 355Pilanesberg NP (SA) 480-1Pomene Reserve (Moz) 191Quirimbas NP (Moz) 224Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve

(SA) 371Royal Natal NP (SA) 419-20Sehlabathebe NP (L) 102-3Silaka NR (SA) 394Skeleton Coast Park (N) 280-1South Luangwa NP (Zam) 10,

561-5, 562, 10Sperrgebiet NP (N) 303-4Spioenkop NR (SA) 427Swartberg NR (SA) 372Table Mountain NP (SA) 328,

333, 340Ts’ehlanyane NP (L) 102uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park

(SA) 416-17Umhlanga Lagoon NR (SA) 410Victoria Falls NP (Zim) 545, 546-7Voortrekker NR (SA) 453Waterberg Plateau Park (N) 259-60West Coast NP (SA) 373Zambezi NP (Zim) 545

National Women’s Monument (SA) 429

nature reserves, see national parks & nature reserves

Nature’s Valley (SA) 375Naukluft Mountains (N) 294-6, 295

753IN

deX N-R

Ncome Monument (SA) 428Ndebele (language) 727Ndola (Zam) 584-5Ndumo GR (SA) 416Nelson Mandela Bridge (SA) 439Nelson Mandela Gateway (SA) 329Nelspruit (SA) 464-5, 464New Brighton township (SA) 379ngoma 680Ngoni people 651Ngonye Falls (Zam) 577Nguni people 650Ngwenya (S) 523Niassa Reserve (Moz) 218-19Nieu Bethesda (SA) 391Nkhata Bay (Mal) 129-31, 130Nkhotakota (Mal) 133-4Nkhotakota WR (Mal) 134-5Nkhunguni Peak (Mal) 138Noordoewer (N) 306North Luangwa NP (Zam) 566Northern Berg (SA) 417-20Northern Cape (SA) 481-9, 482-3Northern Sotho (language) 727North-West Province (SA) 478-81,

479Nsumbu (Sumbu) NP (Zam) 583-4Nujoma, Samuel 309, 310Nxai Pan NP (B) 54, 52nyanga 679Nyanga NP (Zim) 619-20Nyangani (Zim) 620nyele 679Nyika NP (Mal) 125-6, 125Nylsvley NR (SA) 475

OObs Arts Festival (SA) 339off-road driving, see four-wheel drive

travelOkavango Delta (B) 9, 61-72, 81,

62-3, 2, 9Omaruru (N) 258Ondangwa (N) 266-7Ondini (SA) 411Ongulumbashe (N) 267opening hours 700, see also

individual countriesOpuwo (N) 277-8, 3Organ Pipes (N) 276Oribi Gorge NR (SA) 409ostriches 361-2, 666, 667Otjinjange Valley (N) 279Otjiwarongo (N) 258-9Otjozondjupa (N) 273-5Oudtshoorn (SA) 361-3Outjo (N) 259Overberg (SA) 356-60

overland trucks 33-4, 712, 714Owambo (language) 728Oxbow (L) 101

PPaarl (SA) 355-6Paarl Mountain NR (SA) 355pale chanting goshawks 664, 665Palma (Moz) 227Pan African Congress (PAC) 492Paradise Pools (B) 70paragliding 501, 697parks, see gardens & parksParys (SA) 434passports 708Paton, Alan 496Pemba (Moz) 219-23, 220penguins 666, 666Petrified Forest (N) 276-7Phalaborwa (SA) 477-8photography 704Pietermaritzburg (SA) 424-6, 425Pilanesberg NP (SA) 480-1Pilgrim’s Rest (SA) 470Pinnacle (SA) 467Plaatje, Solomon Tshekisho 496planning, see also itineraries

basics 14-15budgeting 14-15calendar of events 19-21countries 35-7internet resources 15itineraries 22-7safaris 28-34travel seasons 14, 19-21

plants 688-9, 699Plettenberg Bay (SA) 370-1poaching 686-7, 691Pohamba, Hifikepunye 310politics 644-5

books 700music 678-9

Polokwane GR (SA) 470Polokwane (Pietersburg) (SA) 470-1Pomene (Moz) 191Pomene Reserve (Moz) 191Ponta d’Ouro (Moz) 181-3Ponta Malongane (Moz) 181-3pony trekking, see horse ridingpopulation 644, 669Port Alfred (SA) 384-5Port Edward (SA) 408Port Elizabeth (SA) 378-82, 380-1Port Shepstone (SA) 408Port St Johns (SA) 394-5Portuguese (language) 728-9Portuguese Island (Moz) 180

Portuguese, the 648in Mozambique 228-9

prehistory 646-7Pretoria (SA) 452-8, 454Pretoria Boeremark (SA) 456Prince Albert (SA) 372-3private wildlife & conservation

reserves, see also national parks & nature reserves, transfron-tier parks, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage (Zam) 585-6

Inkwenkwezi GR (SA) 391Manyeleti WR (SA) 463Mkhaya GR (S) 13, 524-5, 13Mlilwane WS (S) 518-19Mutinondo Wilderness (Zam) 580-1NamibRand NR (N) 298Namtib Biosphere Reserve (N) 300Sabi Sand WR (SA) 463-4Skeleton Coast Wilderness Area

(N) 281Timbavati WR (SA) 463Victoria Falls Private GR (Zim) 537

public holidays, see individual countries

qQacha’s Nek (L) 102Qiloane Hill (L) 100quad biking 536, 697Quelimane (Moz) 204-5, 205Quilaluia Island (Moz) 224Quirimba Island (Moz) 224-6Quirimbas Archipelago (Moz) 10,

224-6, 10Quirimbas NP (Moz) 224Quissico (Moz) 186Quthing (L) 104

Rrabies 721rafting 434, 501, 520, 536, 697-8, see

also canoeing & kayakingRamabanta (L) 12Ramsgate (SA) 409rap 684religion 645, 671-2, see also

individual religionsRenamo 230reptiles 688responsible travel 700-1rhinoceroses 47, 141, 660, 13, 661Rhodes (SA) 395Rhodes, Cecil 78, 632Rhodesia 632-3Richard’s Bay (SA) 410Robben Island (SA) 329

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

754

INdeX R

-S

Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve (SA) 371

Robertson (SA) 360rock art 18, 647, 648rock-art sites

Bathplug Cave (SA) 423Giant’s Castle (SA) 422Kamberg NR (SA) 423Malealea (L) 103Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628Phillips Cave (N) 257Quthing (L) 104Royal Natal NP (SA) 419Tsisab Ravine (N) 276Twyfelfontein (N) 276Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art Centre

(SA) 484rock climbing 132-3, 159, 334-5, 368,

502, 697Roma (L) 12, 100Rongui Island (Moz) 224Rorke’s Drift (SA) 427-8Rössing Mine (N) 285Route 62 (SA) 360-3Royal Livingstone Express

(Zam) 537Royal Natal NP (SA) 419-20Rozwi people 648Ruacana (N) 267-8rugby 496Rundu (N) 268-9, 268Rustenburg (SA) 478Rustler’s Valley (SA) 436

sSabi Sand WR (SA) 463-4Sabie (SA) 469-70safaris 18, 28-34, 712-13, 717

books 685safety considerations 704-5, see

also individual locationsdriving 32-3, 711-12, 716environmental hazards 722-3hitching 716infectious diseases 719-22overland travel 711-12wildlife watching 686

sailing, see boat tripssamango monkeys 656, 656Samfya (Zam) 580San people 74, 79-80, 258, 273-4,

647, 648books 674music 677

San rock art 18, 647, 648, see also rock-art sites

sandboarding 284, 335, 697Sandwich Harbour (N) 289Sani Pass (SA) 423-4Sani Top (L) 101Sata, Michael 586, 645Savuti (B) 59-60Savuti Channel (B) 60Savuti Marshes (B) 59scams 705scenic flights 63, 536-7schistosomiasis (bilharzia) 721scorpions 722Scottburgh (SA) 408Scramble for Africa 307, 650, 652scuba diving, see diving & snorkellingsea kayaking, see canoeing &

kayakingseals 280, 662, 662secretary birds 664, 664security, see safety considerationsSehlabathebe NP (L) 102-3Semonkong (L) 12, 103Senanga (Zam) 577Senga Bay (Mal) 135-6Sentinel Hiking Trail (SA) 435Sepedi (language) 727Serenje (Zam) 578Serote, Mongane Wally 497Sesfontein (N) 277Sesheke (Zam) 577Sesotho 730Sesriem (N) 296-7, 297sexual violence 671Shaka Zulu 77, 411, 587, 651Shakaland (SA) 410shark-cage diving 358, 364Sharpeville massacre 492Shipwreck Coast (SA) 385Shiwa Ng’andu (Zam) 581, 582Shona (language) 729Shona people 650Shosholoza Meyl 514Siavonga (Zam) 569-70Sibebe Rock (S) 517Signal Hill (SA) 328Silaka NR (SA) 394Silverton (SA) 456Sinazongwe (Zam) 570-1Sioma (Zam) 577sitatungas 658Skeleton Coast (N) 280-1Skeleton Coast Park (N) 280-1Skeleton Coast Wilderness Area

(N) 281skiing 101skydiving 284, 364, 697

slavery 133-4, 155, 587, 650Smith, Ian 633Smuts, Jan 458snake bites 723snakes 688snorkelling, see diving & snorkellingsoapstone birds 624soccer 157, 329, 496Sodwana Bay (SA) 415Solitaire (N) 297-8solo travellers 705Songo (Moz) 203-4Sossusvlei (N) 8, 296-7, 297, 8Sotho-Setswana people 650South Africa 36, 322-514, 324-5

accommodation 322, 500-1activities 501-3arts 496-7border crossings 466, 507-9business hours 503climate 322courses 504culture 495-6customs regulations 503disabilities, travellers with 506embassies 503-4environment 497-500festivals 383, 436food & drink 322, 500, 504highlights 324-5history 490-5holidays 505internet access 504language 724-5, 727, 730-1maps 504money 504-5national parks 498-500safety considerations 505-6, 513telephone services 506tourist information 506tours 510, 513-14travel seasons 322travel to/from 507-10travel within 510-14visas 506-7volunteering 507weights & measures 503

South African Defence Force (SADF) Base (N) 267

South Coast (SA) 408-9South Luangwa NP (Zam) 10, 561-5,

562, 10Southbroom (SA) 409Southern African Development

Community (SADC) 652Southern Berg (SA) 422-4Southern Sotho (language) 730Soutpansberg (SA) 473-5

755IN

deX S-U

Soutpansberg Mountains (SA) 474Soweto (SA) 451-2Sperrgebiet NP (N) 303-4Spioenkop NR (SA) 427Spitzkoppe (N) 275Springbok (SA) 488-9St Lucia (SA) 413-4Stadsaal Caves (SA) 374steam trains 537Stellenbosch (SA) 349-53, 352-3Sterkfontein Caves (SA) 452, 646Stony Point African Penguin Colony

(SA) 357Storms River (SA) 377Strandloper Trail (SA) 387Sturmvogelbucht (N) 301Succulent Karoo Biome (N) 303Sun City (SA) 479-80surfing 699, see also beaches

Cape Town (SA) 335Durban (SA) 401Jeffrey’s Bay (SA) 377South Africa 502Tofinho (Moz) 189

sustainable travel 700-1Swahili-Arab people 650Swakopmund (N) 281-8, 282-3Swapo 308-9Swartberg NR (SA) 372Swartberg Pass (SA) 362, 372Swartland (SA) 373-5Swati (language) 730Swazi ceremonies 522Swazi people 651Swaziland 37, 515-32, 516

accommodation 515, 528arts 526-7border crossings 530business hours 528children, travel with 528climate 515culture 526customs regulations 528embassies 528environment 527food & drink 527-8, 528gay travellers 528highlights 516holidays 528-9internet access 529internet resources 529language 529, 730lesbian travellers 528maps 529money 529national parks 527photography 529postal services 529

telephone services 529tourist information 529tours 520, 531travel seasons 515travel to/from 530travel within 530-2visas 529

Swellendam (SA) 358-60Swellendam Hiking Trail (SA) 359swimming, see also beaches

Malawi 129, 131Mozambique 171, 207Namibia 284South Africa 360, 469

TTable Mountain NP (SA) 328, 333, 340Talana Heritage Park & Battlefield

(SA) 428telephone services 15, 705, see

also individual countriesTelkom Tower (SA) 439Tembe Elephant Park (SA) 416Temple of Understanding (SA) 400Tengenenge (Zim) 614, 17Tete (Moz) 202-3Teyateyaneng (L) 95Thaba-Bosiu (L) 100Thabana-Ntlenyana (L) 100, 101Thabane, Thomas 105theme parks 397, 479Thohoyandou (SA) 476Three Rondavels (SA) 467ticks 722-3Timbavati WR (SA) 463time 705-6tipping 704Tofinho (Moz) 189Tofo (Moz) 188-9toilets 706Tonga people 570tourist information 537, 706tours 712-13, 717, see also safaristownships

art 673Durban (SA) 401Elim (SA) 476Galeshewe (SA) 484Johannesburg (SA) 437Katutura (N) 249, 680Knysna (SA) 367-8Mangaung (SA) 429Mondesa (N) 285music 679New Brighton (SA) 379Soweto (SA) 451-2Umasizakhe (SA) 389

traditional religions 672

train travel 717transfrontier parks 692-4, see

also national parks & nature reserves

/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park (N) 304

/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park (SA) 489

Chimanimani Transfrontier Conser-vation Area (Moz) 202

Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (Moz) 184

Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (Zim) 624-5

internet resources 692Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (B)

11, 75-6Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (SA)

11, 486-7, 486, 11Trans-Karoo Express, see Shosholoza

Meyltravel to/from Southern Africa 708-13travel within Southern Africa 713-17travellers cheques 704trekking, see hikingTruth & Reconciliation Commission

493-4Ts’ehlanyane NP (L) 102travellers’ diarrhoea 722Tsisab Ravine (N) 276Tsitsikamma (SA) 375-7Tsodilo Hills (B) 69Tsonga (language) 730Tsumeb (N) 261-3, 262Tsumkwe (N) 273-5Tsvangirai, Morgan 634-5Tswana (language) 730-1Tswana people 77, 79tuberculosis 721-2Tuli Block (B) 49-51Tumbuka people 651Two Rivers (B) 75Twyfelfontein (N) 276-7typhoid 722Tzaneen (SA) 477

UuKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park (SA)

416-17Ulundi (SA) 411-12Umasizakhe township (SA) 389Umgeni River Bird Park (SA) 400Umhlanga 522Umhlanga Lagoon NR (SA) 410Umhlanga Rocks (SA) 409-10uMkhuze GR (SA) 415Umkomaas (SA) 408Underberg (SA) 423Upington (SA) 485-6Uutapi (Ombalantu) (N) 267

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

756

INdeX V

-W

Vvacations, see holidays under

individual countriesvaccinations 718Valley of the Kings (SA) 412Valley of the Olifants (SA) 476-8Vamizi Island (Moz) 224Van Zyl’s Pass (N) 279vegetarian travellers 676Venda (SA) 475-6Venda (language) 731Venda people 650vervet monkeys 656, 656Veterinary Cordon Fence 83Victoria Falls 6, 533-48, 534, 6

accommodation 533activities 534-7climate 533food 533tourist information 537travel seasons 533, 535travel to/from 536, 543visas 538Zambia 538-44Zimbabwe 544-8

Victoria Falls NP (Zim) 545, 546-7Victoria Falls Private GR (Zim) 537Victoria Falls Steam Train (Zim) 537Victoria Falls (town) (Zim) 544-8,

544Vilankulo (Moz) 191-4, 192Viphya Plateau (Mal) 132-3visas 15, 706-7, see also individual

countries, passportsvolunteering 707von Bismarck, Otto 307, 650Voortrekker Monument (SA) 453Voortrekker NR (SA) 453Voortrekkers 397, 424, 426, 428, 453,

490, 652vultures 664, 665Vwaza Marsh WR (Mal) 127

wwalking, see hikingWalvis Bay (N) 288-91, 288-9Warner Beach (SA) 408water 723Waterberg (SA) 475Waterberg Plateau Park (N) 259-60waterfalls

Augrabies Falls (SA) 487-8Bridal Veil Falls (SA) 469Debengeni Falls (SA) 476

Dokolewa Waterfall (SA) 476Epupa Falls (N) 278-9Kalambo Falls (Zam) 583Ketane Falls (L) 103Lisbon Falls (SA) 467Lone Creek Falls (SA) 469Mac-Mac Falls (SA) 469Maletsunyane Falls (L) 103Manchewe Falls (Mal) 124Morumbodzi Falls (Moz) 200Mtazari Falls (Zim) 620Ngonye Falls (Zam) 577Ruacana Falls (N) 267Tugela Falls (SA) 419Victoria Falls (Zam) 538

weather 14, 19-21, see also climate under individual countries

websites, see internet resourcesweights 697welwitschia 287West Coast (SA) 373-5West Coast NP (SA) 373Western Cape (SA) 349-75, 350Western Shores (SA) 414-15whale watching 356-7, 358, 370, 414white-water rafting, see raftingWild Card 498Wild Coast (SA) 391-5, 392-3wild horses 312wildebeest 658, 658Wilderness (SA) 366-7wildlife 685-9

animal welfare 691books 685, 699encounters 686endangered species 686-7internet resources 686photography 704

wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, see also national parks & nature reserves, private wildlife & conservation reserves, transfrontier parks

Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre (SA) 458

Birds of Eden (SA) 370Bokong NR (L) 102Cape Cross Seal Reserve (N) 280Central Kalahari GR (B) 72-5Chimpanzee Eden (SA) 464Elephant Sanctuary (SA) 370, 466Franklin GR (SA) 429Gaborone GR (B) 41Ithala GR (SA) 412Khama Rhino Sanctuary (B) 47Khutse GR (B) 75Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary (Mal)

115

Lilongwe Wildlife Centre (Mal) 115Liwonde Rhino Sanctuary (Mal) 141Madikwe GR (SA) 481Mahango GR (N) 270Majete WR (Mal) 12, 153-4, 12Maputo Special Reserve (Moz) 183Mkhaya GR (S) 13, 524-5, 13Moremi GR (B) 70-2, 71Mosi-oa-Tunya GP (Zam) 537, 539Mukuvisi Woodlands Environmental

Centre (Zim) 604Nata Bird Sanctuary (B) 51Ndumo GR (SA) 416Nkhotakota WR (Mal) 134-5Polokwane GR (SA) 470Tembe Elephant Park (SA) 416Tenikwa (SA) 370Umgeni River Bird Park (SA) 400uMkhuze GR (SA) 415Vwaza Marsh WR (Mal) 127Wild is Life (Zim) 604

wildlife watching 18, 29, 30, 537, 653-68, 686, 690-4, see also national parks & nature reserves, private wildlife & conservation reserves, transfrontier parks, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Windhoek (N) 245-57, 248, 250-1accommodation 251-3activities 251attractions 245-51drinking 254-5emergency services 255entertainment 255festivals & events 251food 253-4history 245internet access 255medical services 256money 256postal services 256safety considerations 256shopping 255telephone services 256tourist information 256travel to/from 256-7travel within 257

Winelands (SA) 349-56wineries 258

South Africa 349-72, 353-4, 355, 360, 374, 487

Winterton (SA) 420witchcraft 672women travellers 707World Heritage sites

Cradle of Humankind (SA) 452Great Zimbabwe (Zim) 13, 622-4,

632, 648, 650, 623, 13, 648

757IN

deX W-Z

iSimangaliso Wetland Park (SA) 413-16

Khami Ruins (Zim) 625Lake Malawi NP (Mal) 136-9Makapan’s Caves (SA) 472Mana Pools NP (Zim) 615Mapungubwe NP (SA) 475Matobo NP (Matopos) (Zim) 628-9Mozambique Island (Moz) 210-13,

211Robben Island & Nelson Mandela

Gateway (SA) 329Sterkfontein (SA) 452Tsodilo Hills (B) 69Twyfelfontein (N) 276uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park

(SA) 416-17Victoria Falls (Zam) 538Vredefort Dome (SA) 434

World’s View (Malindidzimu Hill) (Zim) 628

World’s View (Nyanga NP) (Zim) 619-20

XXai-Xai (Moz) 185Xakanaxa Lediba (B) 70Xhosa (language) 731Xhosa people 650, 652xylophone 680

Yyellow fever 722youth hostels 696-7

zZambezi NP (Zim) 545Zambia 37, 549-601, 550-1

accommodation 549, 564, 592-3activities 593border crossings 597-8business hours 593climate 549embassies 593environment 589-92festivals 593-4food & drink 594highlights 550-1history 586-9holidays 595internet access 594language 725, 727maps 595money 595national parks 590-1safety considerations 595-6telephone services 596tours 600travel seasons 549travel to/from 597-8travel within 598-601visas 538, 596

zebras 660, 7, 660Zimbabwe 37, 602-42, 603

accommodation 602, 637-8activities 638arts 635-6border crossings 641-2business hours 638

children, travel with 638culture 635customs regulations 638embassies 638-9environment 636-7food & drink 602, 637, 639gay travellers 639highlights 603history 632-5holidays 640internet access 639language 727, 729legal matters 639lesbian travellers 639money 639-40national parks 637postal services 640safety considerations 640telephone services 640travel to/from 640-2travel within 642visas 538, 640

Zimbabwe African National Union (ZANU) 632-4

Zimbabwe African Peoples’ Union (ZAPU) 632-4

ziplining 537Zomba (Mal) 142, 143Zomba Plateau (Mal) 143-4, 144zoos 552Zulu (language) 731Zulu people 427-8, 490, 651, 650Zululand (SA) 410-12Zuma, Jacob 494-5

736

Behind the Scenes

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Hector Arguelles, Emma Beumer, Jochen Fuchs, Pierre Gaspart, Danica Hantke, Lars Hellvig, Andrew Hobson, Jennifer Jader, Beathe Legind, Dan McGovern, Hazel Nel-son, Nancy O’Grady, Michal Onderco, Wrelf Rolf, Ellen Van Brandenburg, Katrijn Van Loo, Sandra Van Maarseveen, James Wesson, Kyle Zieba

AUTHOR THANKSAlan MurphyA big thanks to my travel companion and friend Smitzy for his patience, advice and adventurous spirit (and for not getting further traffic infringements). In Namibia there are too many to thank but special mention to Almuth Styles in Swakopmund whose assistance was much appreciated, and to the honorary consul in Windhoek for making me legal again after my ID was stolen. Thanks to the numerous CEs at LP that I worked with and to my coauthors whose work on this guide was outstanding. To my gorgeous wife, Alison, whose dancing drives

me crazy, but whose strength and spirit inspires me and gives me courage.

Kate ArmstrongA special thanks to the Raw family and Katie McCarthy for their kindness and ongoing help, and to fellow writer Tom Spurling for doing the groundwork in Lesotho. Huge thanks to coordinator Alan and the Lonely Planet team.

Lucy CorneThanks to my mum and dad for first intro-ducing me to this wonderful country, and to my husband, Shawn, for finding an excuse to keep us here. Thanks to Kate Armstrong for her KZN tips and to Elmar Neethling and Ed Salomons for all the Durban and Drak-ensberg insights, to Gary Pnematicatos for bringing me up to speed on Cape Town’s nightlife and to my boys for being the best travel companions ever. At Lonely Planet I’d like to say enkosi to Alan, Glenn, David, Lucy and Brigitte for their help and support.

Mary FitzpatrickMany thanks to all those who helped me with this update, to Alan for being such a great coordinating author and for the extra words, and – most of all – to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their company, patience and good humour.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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737Beh

INd Th

e sceNes

Michael GrosbergThanks to all those who welcomed me with open arms and shared their insight, experi-ence and knowledge of Zambia: Amy Wald-man, Oli Dreike, Andy Hogg, Jess and Ade Salmon, Alec Cole and Emma Wood, Tyrone McKeith, Linda van Heerden, Greg Heltzer, Riccardo Garbaccio, Meegan Treen, Natalie Clark, Adrian Penny, Lynda and Rick Schulz, Glenn Evans, Sheila Donnelly, Ian Stevenson (who let me ‘co-spot’ on an antipoaching flight over the Lower Zambezi), Mindy Rob-erts, Nathalie Zanoli and Samrat Datta.

Anthony HamAndy Raggett of Drive Botswana was an invaluable source of information at all stages of the journey. Thanks also to Mike Romeo, Will Gourlay, Alan Murphy, Glyn Maude, Keitumetse Ngaka, Olefile Sebogiso, Nick Jacobsen, Monika Schiess and to Jan and Cleo in Khutse. Special thanks to Jan and Ron, and to my three girls Marina, Carlota and Valentina: Os quiero con todo mi corazon.

Trent Holden & Kate MorganThere are some huge thank yous to give out for the help we received while researching. First up thanks to Joy in Victoria Falls, and Kim in Livingstone for all your assistance in getting some of the nitty gritty stuff down pat. The Seremwe brothers, James and George, for all their guidance and assistance.

Sally Wynn for her unparalleled knowledge of Kariba and around, Choice Mushunje from Zimbabwe Parks, Gordon Adams, Ann Bruce and Jane High from the east, and Val from Bulawayo. Thanks also to all the travellers we met, including John and Linda Hutton for all the suggestions. Finally huge thanks to the production team, particularly Will Gourlay, Glenn van der Knijff and coor-dinating author Alan Murphy.

Richard WatersMy special thanks to Rob and Lindsay McConaghy and their excellent team who provided specialist advice every step of the way; Chris Badger, Zane, and Emma and Chris; Gaye Russell, Kate Webb and my Malawian pal Gareth Watson for keeping me company. Thanks also to James Lightfoot for his valuable help. Finally my gratitude to the people of Malawi who remain in adver-sity among the most decent I’ve ever met.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate Map Data Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

Cover photograph: Lion in fynbos (fine bush) field, South Africa, Hoberman Collection/Corbis©

THIS BOOKThis 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Southern Africa guidebook was researched and written by Alan Murphy (coordinating author), Kate Armstrong, Lucy Corne, Mary Fitzpatrick, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden and Kate Morgan, and Richard Waters. David Lukas wrote the text that formed the basis of the Wildlife chapter and Jane Cornwell wrote the Music in Southern Africa chapter. The previous edition was also coordinated by Alan Murphy.This guidebook was commis-sioned in Lonely Planet’s Mel-

bourne office, and produced by the following:Commissioning Editor Glenn van der KnijffCoordinating Editors Alison Ridgway, Saralinda TurnerCoordinating Cartogra-pher Brendan StreagerCoordinating Layout Designer Carol JacksonManaging Editors Barbara Delissen, Brigitte EllemorManaging Cartographers Alison Lyall, Adrian PersogliaManaging Layout Designer Chris GirdlerAssisting Editors Sarah Bai-ley, Andrew Bain, Penny Cordner, Kate Daly, Andrea Dobbin, Kate

Kiely, Susan Paterson, Erin Richards, Luna Soo, Ross Taylor, Jeanette WallAssisting Cartographers Xavier Di Toro, Jolyon Philcox, Peter ShieldsCover Research Naomi ParkerInternal Image Research David Nelson Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic

Thanks to Frank Deim, Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Annelies Mertens, Trent Paton, Kerrianne Southway, Joseph Spanti, Gerard Walker

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’