Tambour, aari, zalakdosi, resht, rashti and tambour are a few of the many names used to refer to embroidery done with a sharpened hook in such a way that the pattern is executed with a chain stitch

An Overview of Hook Embroidery 1By Safiya bint Suleiman al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath

An Overview of Hook Embroidery

Tambour, aari, zalakdosi, resht, rashti and tambour are a few of the many names used to refer to embroidery done with a sharpened hook in such a way that the pattern is executed with a chain stitch. This technique is used either by itself or with other stitches and techniques such as appliqu on a variety of ground fabrics from transparent gauze to canvas, felt and leather. It is used on clothing, household goods such as cushion covers, wall hangings, and floor coverings, to decorative horse trappings. It can be dated as early as the 7th century CE to the current day.Background and History -

Hook embroidery can be dated to as early as the 7th century CE in Central Asia and Persia.

Silk damask with embroidered ducks, Central Asia, 7th8th century Textiles from the regions along the Silk Road play an important role in the newly furnished permanent exhibition. This red silk was woven in China and embroidered in Central Asia with stylised duck motifs that may be traced back to Persian prototypes, thus documenting the exchange of goods and motifs between east and west. Abegg-Stiftung, CH-3132 Riggisberg (photo: Christoph von Virg)

By the 9th century CE it can be found in Egypt, in pieces thought to be imported from Persia or made in Egypt for import to the Persian market.Base fabric: linenEmbroidery: wool & cottonStitch chain stitchTissus d'Egypte, Temoins du Monde Arabe VIIIe-XVe siecles, Collection Bouvier, Muse d'art et d'histoire Fribourg, Genve and Institut du monde arabe, Paris. 1993.

Fig. 175-177 pp. 277-280

Egypt - 12th Century CE

Base fabric: linenEmbroidery: wool & cottonStitch chain stitch with woven stitch backgroundingTissus d'Egypte, Temoins du Monde Arabe VIIIe-XVe siecles, Collection Bouvier, Muse d'art et d'histoire Fribourg, Genve and Institut du monde arabe, Paris. 1993.

Fig. 178 p. 281

In the 16th century, in the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, his chronicler Abu al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote in the famous Ain-i-Akbari: "His majesty (Akbar) pays much attention to various stuffs; hence Irani, Ottoman, and Mongolian articles of wear are in much abundance especially textiles embroidered in the patterns of Nakshi, Saadi, Chikhan, Ari, Zardozi, Wasli, Gota and Kohra. The imperial workshops in the towns of Lahore, Agra, Fatehpur and Ahmedabad turn out many masterpieces of workmanship in fabrics, and the figures and patterns, knots and variety of fashions which now prevail astonish even the most experienced travelers. Taste for fine material has since become general, and the drapery of embroidered fabrics used at feasts surpasses every description."

In the 16th century made its way into northern India with the Mughal invaders, both as a fabric embroidery and as embroidery and appliqu on leather called mochi bharat. Saudi Aramco World: Mughal Maal, July-August 2011

As a technique used in Central Asia and Persia, hook embroidery is used in horse trappings, wall and floor coverings, and tent panels. It is still used today in the making of suzanis, made by the nomadic peoples of central Asian.

Traditional 19th Century Persian Saddle cover and detail showing use of hook embroidery with appliqu.

Silk on wool

Persian Rugs: Notes on Resht Textiles, Barry OConnell, http://www.persiancarpetguide.com/sw-asia/Rugs/Persian/Resht/Resht.htm. Accessed: 3-1-14

Metropolitan Museum of Art Heilbrun Timeline of Art History - http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/10/wai/ho_10.33.1.htmAccessed: 4-5-09

Young prince Gujarat 19th C. - Zardosi

Namba traditional felted carpet Kashmir

Hand embroidery Aari Kaam using colorful dyed threads andthe aari needle is carried out if the Namda is a traditional one. There are also examples of somebeautifully crafted carpets by stitching the pieces of old worn out Namdas together, with appliqutechnique.

In central Asia, hook embroidery is worked into traditional wall hangins and furniture covers called suzanis. Often worked in combination with appliqu and couching, it can be done on a large frame or in-hand.

Expansion of trade with Europe beginning in the 17th century brought the technique to Europe through much of the 19th century.

Madame Pompadour at her tambour frame.

Tambour Work Embroidery, 1730-1840 - There is only one stitch to master in tambour embroidery. Instead of a needle, very fine, sharp hook is punched through a tightly stretched fabric to catch a fine thread from beneath and draw it up, creating a linked, chain

like stitch. The name "tambour work" comes from the way the fabric is held taut between two round, fitted hoops, resembling the head of a small drum, or tambour. (Demonstrating tambour work, left, Janea Whitacre, mantua-maker from Colonial Williamsburg.)

1810-20 Regency Period Tambour work - detail

Techniques and Materials -

The ground fabric is stretch tightly over a frame sometimes a slate frame, sometimes a round frame giving it an appearance something like a drum or tambourine, hence its European term tambour from the French meaning hand-held drum. On fine fabrics the embroidery was executed with a fine iron hook very similar to a crochet hook. When worked on stiff materials the work was held in the hand rather than stretched on a frame and the needle was held in an awl handle. The work is stretch tightly on a frame. It can either be a square frame, such as a slate frame or a round one. In either case it should be externally supported as the work is done with one hand holding the hook above and the other below holding the thread.

Traditional aari hooks are made of iron and wrapped in cord for more comfort and a better grip.

Tambour hooks are set into a handle similar to a pin vise. The hook is lined up with the tightening screw to allow the user to see how the hook is oriented.

The basic tambour stitch is fairly simple. The thread is held below the work and draw theough the fabric with the hook. As the hook is inserted in the fabric, give a slight twist to the hook to be sure the thread is completely secured in the hook before it is drawn through.

A Mochi hook or Cobblers Hook is used for work on heavier materials such as heavy canvas of leather. It is held in the palm like an awl while the work is held in the hand rather than stretched on a frame. A finger guard is worn on the under hand to prevent the awl damaging the fingers.

Notes on the Use of the Hook in Indian Embroidery, Irwin, John and Hanish, Barbara, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, Vol 53 (1970) , http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb70_em1.pdf, Accessed: 3-1-14

A Gallery of Vintage and Modern Tambour Hooks

Georgian Faux Ivory Lace Tambour Hook Circa Early to mid 1800s

Antique Dutch Hallmarked Sterling Silver Tambour Set w 3 Crochet Hooks - Circa 1860

Agate Handled Crochet Hook - English - Circa 1870

Nine Assorted Tambour / Crochet Hooks 1800s

Contemporary Ivory Tambour Hooks by artist Phillip A. Montgomery

Bibliography The Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, welcomes visitors from late April to early November-February 7, 2014 Abegg-Stiftung, CH-3132 Riggisberg (photo: Christoph von Virg), http://www.hali.com/news/the-abegg-stiftung-reopens-new-permanent-exhibition/, Accessed: 2-27-14

The Abegg-Stiftung Museum, http://www.abegg-stiftung.ch/e/museum/sonderaus/2011/text.html, accessed. 2-28-14Artistic Fingers Blog, Anita, http://artisticfingers.blogspot.com/

Roxane Farabi Shazadeh, The History of Persian Embroidery, http://www.scapersianu.com/Class%20Notes/Persian%20Embroidery.pdf Accessed: 3-1-14

Europes Asian Centuries: Trading Eurasia 1600-1830, Interview with Kasan and Juma Sangar, University of Warwick, http://www2.warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/oralhistoryproject/resources/kasamsangar/ Accessed: 3-1-14

Contemporary Uzbek Suzanis, Marla Mallett, Marla Mallett: Textiles and Tribal Oriental Rugs, http://www.marlamallett.com/suzanis.htm, Accessed 3-1-14Metropolitan Museum of Art Heilbrun Timeline of Art History - Hanging, 19th centuryIran (Rasht), http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/10/wai/ho_10.33.1.htmAccessed: 4-5-09

Naik, Shailaja D., Traditional Embroideries of India, South Asia Books (December 1996)

Notes on the Use of the Hook in Indian Embroidery, Irwin, John and Hanish, Barbara, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, Vol 53 (1970) , http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb70_em1.pdf, Accessed: 3-1-14Persian Rugs: Notes on Resht Textiles, Barry OConnell, http://www.persiancarpetguide.com/sw-asia/Rugs/Persian/Resht/Resht.htm. Accessed: 3-1-14

Saudi Aramco World: Mughal Maal, https://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/201104/mughal.maal.htm, July-August 2011"Splendid Suzanis" written by Caroline Stone (appeared on pages 6-13 on the July/August 2003 print edition of Saudi Aramco World.Tissus d'Egypte, Temoins du Monde Arabe VIIIe-XVe siecles, Collection Bouvier, Muse d'art et d'histoire Fribourg, Genve and Institut du monde arabe, Paris. 1993

Using the Mochi Hook