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7/27/2019 AppliqueBasics_101311
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* nterweavetth.om
Applqué a fun way to add a lttle extra
pzzazz to a ewng projet or to update an
extng garment or home déor tem. To get
you tarted, here are a few ommonly ued
tehnque for preparng and attahng applqué.
Raw-EdgeMethodThis appliqué method is quick and easy, resulting in a raw-
edge finish. It’s great for creating an organic and slightly
frayed look with woven fabrics. It’s also a great method touse with felt, faux suede, and similar fabrics that don’t fray
at cut edges.
You will need: Paper-backed fusible web (if the project calls for it or
you’d like to use it)
Pins or basting glue (if you’re not using fusible web)
Craft/paper scissors
Fabric shears
Embroidery scissors
Pencil
Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp
Coordinating thread or embroidery floss (for handsewing)or coordinating thread for machine sewing
Thimble (optional)
Remember that any time you’re transferring a template to
the wrong side of the fabric (or onto the paper side of the
fusible web) the final appliqué will be the reverse of the
traced appliqué.
1Trace the template onto the paper side of the
paper-backed fusible web (or trace the template onto
the wrong side of the fabric or as directed by the project
instructions).
2 Rough cut the shape from the fusible web, leaving a
margin of about ¼" (6 mm) around the shape (if you’re
not using fusible web, simply cut the shape along the drawn
lines). Following manufacturer’s instructions, adhere the
fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric and let it cool.
Then, cut the shape along the drawn lines.
3Remove the paper backing and place the shape, right
side up, onto the background fabric. Adhere the shape
to the background fabric as before (if you’re not using fusible
web, use pins or basting glue to secure the shape in place on
the background fabric).
4
Stitch the shape in place around the edges, using
a machine stitch, such as a straight stitch, zigzag,blanket stitch, satin stitch, or other decorative stitch (refer
to your sewing machine manual for assistance). Alterna-
tively, sew the appliqué in place using your favorite hand
embroidery stitch, such as a blanket stitch, running stitch,
or backstitch.
Freezer-Paper(orTemplate-Plastic)andStarchMethodThis method creates a neat turned-under edge for the ap-
pliqué. The starch gives a crisp edge that stays in place as
you stitch the appliqué to the background fabric.
You will need:
Freezer-paper (or heat-resistant template plastic) Craft/paper scissors Fabric shears Embroidery scissors Spray starch Small paintbrush Fabric-marking pen or tailor’s chalk Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp Lightweight cotton or silk thread Thimble (optional)
appliqué bAsics
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
figure 4
7/27/2019 AppliqueBasics_101311
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* nterweavetth.om
1 Layer two pieces of freezer paper, with the shiny side
of one piece facing the paper side of the second piece;
press together with a hot dry iron. Trace your templates
onto the paper side of the freezer paper; if you have multiple
shapes, leave at least ¼" (6 mm) between each. (If you’re us-
ing template plastic, simply trace the shapes onto the plastic
with a permanent marker.) Cut out each shape along the
traced lines with your craft/paper scissors.
2Press the shiny side of the freezer paper template to
the wrong side of the chosen fabric, leaving at least
½" (1.3 cm) between shapes. (If you’re using template plastic,
use a fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk to trace the tem-
plate onto the wrong side of the fabric.) Cut out each shape,
leaving scant ¼" (6 mm) seam allowances around each
(figure1). (If you’re using template plastic, place the template
onto the wrong side of the cut shape, centering it to leave the
¼" [6 mm] seam allowances free.)
3 Using the embroidery scissors, clip into the seam
allowance at any concave curves and points (clippingalmost to the template or drawn lines;figure2). You may also
clip the convex curves if it will make it easier for you to fold
under the seam allowance neatly.
4 Spray a small amount of starch into the cap from the
starch can. Use the paintbrush or a finger to brush
starch onto the seam allowance, moistening the fabric but not
the freezer paper.
5Press the seam allowances over the freezer paper (or
template plastic), using the tip of the iron to wrap the
seam allowances closely around the template and pressing
until the starch is dry and the seam allowances are secure
(figure3). When pressing around convex curves, form smallpleats in the fabric with the iron as you press around the
template to make a smooth curve. If the edges aren’t smooth,
simply remoisten the seam allowances with starch, reshape,
and press. To press points neatly, press the point first, then
press the fabric on either side over it.
6When the fabric has cooled, remove the template
(peel the freezer paper gently from the fabric), and
press again to set the shape (figure4). The paper template
has enough “wax” to be used more than once. You’re ready
to stitch the appliqué. Use the standard hand-appliqué stitch
for a neat, nearly invisible finish. Note that where appliqués
overlap, the lower piece does not need to be sewn.
Needle-TurnMethodRequiring minimal preparation for a turned-under edge, this
method starts with the appliqué edges left raw. You then turn
the edges under as you stitch the appliqué in place.
figure 5
figure 6
You will need: Pins or basting glue Fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk Fabric shears Embroidery scissors Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp
Lightweight cotton or silk thread Thimble (optional)
1 Trace the template onto the right side of the chosen
fabric, using a fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk. Cut
out the shape a scant ¼" (6 mm) from the traced line.
2 Using the embroidery scissors, clip into the seam allow-
ance at any concave curves and points (you may also clip
the convex curves if doing so will make it easier for you to fold
under the seam allowance neatly; figure5).
3 Pin or glue-baste the appliqué to the background fabric,
overlapping pieces as necessary or directed. (To glue-
baste, use small dots of glue on the wrong side of the appliqué,
about ¼" [6 mm] from the drawn line, to secure the appliqué tothe background fabric.)
4Use the standard hand-appliqué stitch for a neat,
nearly invisible finish. As you sew, use the needle to
sweep under the seam allowance just ahead of your stitching
(figure6). Make sure the traced line isn’t visible. Note that
where appliqués overlap, the lower piece does not need to be
sewn or turned under.
appliqué bAsics