Chapter 1: Philosophy and Fundamental Principles

Chapter 10:Coastal ProcessesGEO 101: Introduction to Environmental GeologyEnvironmental GeologyChapter 10Five Fundamental ConceptsIncreasing human populationThe concept of sustainability Earth as a system Hazardous Earth processes Scientific knowledge and values

Chapter 5 ObjectivesTo understand :Wave terminologyComponents of beachSand transport at the beach4. Rip currentsCoastal erosionShoreline protectionHuman activities and their effectsThe effects of hurricanesWavesSize of waves depend on:Velocity of windDuration of windDistance that wind blows across the surface, or fetch

What happens to wave as it approaches shore?

Shape?Speed?Why?

Wave RefractionWhy?-bending of waves

Longshore CurrentsA current of water and moving sediment that develops in the surf zone as he result of waves that strike the land at an angle.

Long Beach NYLongshoreCurrent

Rip currentsA seaward flow of water in a confined narrow zone from a beach to beyond the breaker zone.

Parts of the Beach

Beach erosionBeach budget inventory of sources and losses of sediment to a particular stretch of coastline.

Erosion Factors

Engineering StructuresHard stabilization engineering structures to protect a shoreline from waves

Soft stabilization adding sand o a beach (beach nourishment)

Managed retreat living with beach erosion with perhaps a mixture of hard and soft stabilization

Controversy

Beach Nourishment

The Atlantic Coast

The Gulf Coast

The Great Lakes

Hurricanes

Storm Surge

How do I prepare for a hurricane?BEFORE

DURING A WATCH

DURING A WARNING

AFTER

E-lines and E-zonesBased on erosion rates

Hawaii Erosion Zones:http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/coasts/erosion

Fire Island

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41Case Study # 1: Cape Hatteras

Case # 2 Montauk Point

1800s Montauk

Montauk Today

Montauk BluffsErosion

What should we do? Create a quick 5 minute presentation you have 30 minutes!Introduction Slide (Take home Message)Site DescriptionYour PlanWhy your plan is greatConclusion Slide (Take home message)