Djs Very Basic Brewers Guide

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Deej ays

Ver y Basic

Br ewers Guide

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Why this text? Because I think brewing beer is simple and fun and if it were presented in away that makes it sound simple and fun more people might be willing to try it. Many of thegreat books published on home brewing are pretty technical in nature and strike fear in thehearts of timid would be home brewers.

My theory is this start simple by brewing a basic ale and see how simple it can be, andonce youve done it a few times you can get as technical or complicated as you want. Mostpeople Ive talked to dont want to get technical they just want to make a good brew that

they can enjoy with their friends and families and maybe even save a few bucks.

So what is beer? Very basically - beer is a fermented beverage made by introducing yeast tosugar. The yeast eats the sugar so that it may grow and multiply. The bi-product of thisconsumption is ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide. Sounds simple doesnt it? Well it really is,so lets get started!

The first thing you need to learn before you start brewing your own beer is this

Sanitize everything!Brewing beer is pretty simple, but we always fear the unknown dont we? The mostimportant facet of home brewing is cleanliness! Everything has to be washed thoroughly,and sanitized completely contamination from surface or air born bacteria is a big problem.

That being said, Im going to introduce you to the simplest form of homebrewing maltextract brewing. There are numerous local stores and websites throughout the world fromwhich you can purchase your supplies. Putting a little thought into you mail order purchasescan save you a lot of money on shipping.

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Table of Contents

I nt r oduct ion.................................................................................................................................5

How Do I get Started ? ................................................................................................5

Batch Sizes..................................................................................................................5

Brewing Methods......................................................................................................... 6

Fer ment ing Cont ainer s ..............................................................................................................7

Mini Homebrew Kits (2.5 gallon Sized)........................................................................7The Beer Machine.................................................................................................................7Mr. Beer ................................................................................................................................8

Large Sized Fermenters (3 to 10 Gallon sized) ....................................................... 10

The Simple Food Grade Bucket Fermenter ........................................................................10Coopers Micro Brew Kit ......................................................................................................12The Glass / Plastic Carboy Fermenter ................................................................................13

Conical Fer menter s...................................................................................................................14Stainless Steel Conical Fermenters ....................................................................................14PVC Conical Fermneters ....................................................................................................15

Ot her Brewing Equipment .......................................................................................................17

Basic Br ewing I ngredient s......................................................................................................18

Malts..........................................................................................................................18Malted Grains......................................................................................................................18

Specialty Grains ..................................................................................................................18Liquid Malt Extracts.............................................................................................................18Dry Malt Extracts.................................................................................................................19

Hops ..........................................................................................................................19

Yeast .........................................................................................................................19

Hydr ometer Readings............................................................................................................. 20

What is a hydrometer?...............................................................................................20How To Use a Hydrometer..................................................................................................20

The Pre-Brewing St eps ...........................................................................................................21

Sanitizers................................................................................................................... 21

Water Preparation .....................................................................................................22

Brewing Your Fir st Ext r act Beer ......................................................................................... 23

Brewing an All Extract Wort....................................................................................... 23

Brewing Extract with Steeped Grains and Hops....................................................... 24

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Brewing Your Fir st All -Grain Beer ....................................................................................... 25

The Mash...................................................................................................................25

Back To Extract Brewing ...........................................................................................26

Calculat ing % Alcohol .............................................................................................................. 28% Alcohol by Volume ..........................................................................................................28

% Alcohol by Weight ...........................................................................................................28

Pr epar ing t o Bot t le Your Beer .............................................................................................. 29

I have a Hydrometer! .................................................................................................29

I dont have a Hydrometer ......................................................................................... 29

What do I need to Bottle my Beer?............................................................................ 29

Pr iming t he Beer .......................................................................................................................31Bottle Priming......................................................................................................................31Bulk Priming ........................................................................................................................31

I t s Bot t ling Time! ................................................................................................................... 33

Bottling Your Beer ..................................................................................................... 33Racking From A Fermenter With A Spigot ........................................................................33Racking From a Carboy ......................................................................................................33Bottle Conditioning..............................................................................................................33Chilling and Drinking ...........................................................................................................33

Appendix .................................................................................................................................... 34

Grains, Extracts & Sugars .........................................................................................35

Hops ..........................................................................................................................43

Spices, Flavors & Finings .......................................................................................... 46

Yeast Statistics .......................................................................................................... 50

Beer Style Statistics With Commercial Examples...................................................... 54

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I nt r oduct ion

How Do I get Started ?The simplest way to get started is to purchase a Homebrew Starter Kit. There are several

types of starter kits available, varying in size and level of simplicity. Some kits includeeverything but the pot to cook it in and others include almost nothing, so make sure youknow whats included in you kit to avoid disappointment. Dont worry! Ill take you through itstep by step

Batch SizesOne of the first things you may want to consider is size. How much beer do you normallydrink at a time? Is one case of beer enough? Do you have frequent get-togethers where youmay want several cases on hand? Lets do some basic math first.

From the table below you can see just how much beer can be made using the various sizedkits available.

Basic Beer Bottling Calculations

Batch Size in Gallons 1 2.5 3 5 5.5 6 10

Beer Produced in Ounces 128 320 384 640 704 768 1280

Number of 8 oz. Bottles 16 40 48 80 88 96 160

Number of 12 oz. Bottles 11 27 32 53 59 64 107Number of 16 oz. Bottles 8 20 24 40 44 48 80

Number of 20 oz. Bottles 6 16 19 32 35 38 64

Keep in mind that in general the bigger the batch size the bigger the equipment necessaryto make it and the more space needed to store the equipment and the finished beer. Thatbeing said, it also stands to reason that it takes longer to brew larger batches. So if you livein a small apartment, have limited storage or refrigerator space you may want to stick tosmaller equipment and brew more frequently.

It takes an average of one or two weeks to ferment the beer and one or two weeks tocondition the beer before you drink it. Some recipes can take as much as a month just toferment and several months to condition, but these are exceptional brews and not commonvery common.

Once you get started brewing you may find you need find reasons not to brew!

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Brewing MethodsThere are many methods and variations used to brew beer from the simplest extract brewingto the more complicated All-Grain brewing. Ill explain in more detail later but for now, thereare basically 4 types, heres a brief run down of what they are and what each means:

Extract Brewing Kind of like making condensed soup. Put water in the pot, pour inthe concentrated beer malt and away you go. You still have the option of addingadditional ingredients, to make a special recipe but thats basically it. When youpurchase a beer extract kit you usually get a can of condensed malt syrup in the styleor your choice with the hops already added, maybe a can of plain malt syrup andsometimes the yeast. * Note the concentrate may be in the form of a powder.

Extracts with Steeped Grains - Same as the extract above but you add a few ouncesof crushed malt grains you steep in a small muslin bag like making tea. Not a wholelot more effort but a big difference in taste for some beer styles.

Partial Mash In one pot boil water. Put specialty grains in a muslin bag, place in asecond small pot of water, bring water up to 170F turn off heat and let it steep liketea for about 20 minutes then remove the bag. When the water in the big pot boilsadd extracts and the tea from the small pot. Add hops as needed.

All-Grain This is the most complicated of the four and takes some extra equipment.This is how beer has been made for thousands of years. You need a mash tun tosoak to grains in and two large pots, one to add the water to the mash tun and one tocollect the water from the mash tun. The basic process is to add the grains to themash tun, allow the water to be filtered through the grains to extract the sugars andboil the collected sugar water down to make an extract then its just like extract

brewing.

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Fer ment ing Cont ainer s

Mini Homebrew Kits (2.5 gallon Sized)There are several types of beer brewing kits available from the more traditional bucket and

carboy to the newer self contained keg fermenters. If you not sure about how much youlllike brewing, you are short on space or you dont expect to make more than a few gallons ata time, I recommend the self contained fermenting kits such as Mr. Beer or Beer Machine.

Ill go over several types to give you an idea of whats available and to help you choose theone thats right for you. Ill try to list an average price per unit you can use these informationfor comparison purposes.

The Beer Machine

The simplest type of Mini Brew system is the Beer Machine. This is aself- contained single step unit which allows you to brew 2.6 gallonbatches of beer. I have seen this unit at Wal-Mart at Christmas timeand I believe it can be purchased at the As Seen On TV stores foraround $129.

A friend of mine who just return from Iraq said they had these in thebarracks. I have not personally used this unit, but I do know people who do and they seemhappy with it.

According to the instructions you just pour water into the airtight Beer Machine cask, pour inone of the prepackaged Beer Mixes, seal the cask, leave the Beer Machine out at roomtemperature for 3 to 5 days, then move it into your refrigerator for 4 to 5 days. It uses smallCO2 cartridges (like the ones used in paintball) to add carbonation to the beer in the cask.Beer may be dispensed from the cask.

There are four different casks available and 18 different beer mixes to try. To see theavailable products for the Beer Machine go to: http://www.beermachine.com/index.html

Other Equipment Needed for The Beer Machine Fermenter

The Brewery Upgr ade Kit

If you want to bottle your beer youll need this kit it comes with a BottlingPlatform, Filler, and Nineteen re-usable 500ml bottles and caps. $25

I dont see why you cant just buy a short length of tubing for this

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Mr . Beer

A more traditional yet small sized brewing system. I actually gotstarted brewing with the Mr. Beer brew system. I love the little kegfermenters! They are easy to use and easy to clean. Its just a littlePVC container with a spigot and a cap. The cap threads have little

cuts down them to let excess CO2 bleed out if needed, so an airlock isnot needed. Each keg produces about 2.5 gallons of beer. This is a

great size for testing the waters or experimenting with different malt extracts, hops, steepedgrains and even mini mash recipes.

There are a few different packaging variations of this kit. The Deluxe Kit comes with the keg,the ingredients in make one batch of beer sanitizer and plastic bottle caps for $30 . ThePremium Kit also comes with eight, one liter PET bottles as well $40.

Mr. Beer sold replacement kegs a while back online for only $15 and I bought three more ofthem for a total of 5 kegs. A 2.5 gallon batch of extract based beer only takes about two

hours to brew start to finish. With 5 kegs I can try a new recipe every other night if I am soinclined. I did say I love them right?

The Mr. Beer company also sells ingredients sized just for the kegs which allow you to makeall sorts of beers, ciders and even rootbeer, but you are not limited to buying just theirproducts. They even have a monthly brewing club. If you go to their website you can find lookover products and over 200 easy to brew recipes. http://www.mrbeer.com

How Do I brew Using Mr. Beer?The basic Mr. Beer recipes goes like this. Set a pot on the stove with about 2 gallons ofwater and boil it. Set one gallon aside to cool and save it for later.

If you are using a Mr. Beer product called Booster add it to the water pot before the boiland dissolve it, then bring the water to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the can of extractand stir until completely mixed. This is called wort.

Cool the wort down to 130 F before putting it into the keg. Add water until the water levelreaches the 8.5 quart mark on the keg and stir vigorously. If you have a wire whisk whip it upto a good froth air at this point is good for the yeast, it is called aerating the wort.

When temperature is down to 70 to 90 F sprinkle yeast on top of wort in keg and wait for 5

minutes. After 5 minutes mix it in well making sure NOT to cause a lot of bubbles. Once theyeast is in the wort aeration is not a good thing.

Place the cover on the keg and let it sit in a cool (68 to 76 F) dark place for 7 to 10 days(or more) until bubbles stop forming. It may take as much as a full day before you start tosee bubbles forming on top of the wort. These bubbles/foam are called krausen. Do Notopen the keg again until its time to bottle!

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This was a simple Mr. Beer extract brew. You can also do mini mash brew and small batchAll-Grain brews just make sure the wort is down to 130 F before putting it into the keg.

Other Equipment Needed for Mr. Beer FermenterAdhesive Thermometer

Sticks on the side of your fermenter so youcan watch your temperature. $2

TubingAlthough not required a short length of tubing for bottling is helpful and keeps fromintroducing air to your brew.

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Large Sized Fermenters (3 to 10 Gallon sized)The Simple Food Gr ade Bucket Ferment er

This is the simplest of the traditional brew fermenters. They can bepurchased completely assembled for about $20 or you can do it yourself.Its not hard to make and you may already have the parts laying around thehouse.

Do you have a restaurant you frequent? Maybe you could ask them it theythrow away their white food buckets? A lot of stuff comes in these buckets,pickles, pancake mixes, iced tea mixes, sea food you name it! They come insizes from about 55 gallons to 1 gallon. Youll want at least one (two is

better) 5 gallon size. Dont forget the lids!

Look around you might get them for free. I got one free from a lunch counter at work. Then

one day I went by one by favorite Chinese Supermarket and they had at least 50 of thesethings sitting out back. I asked the woman in the store if I could have one and she sold meone for$3. I would have paid at least $6.50 just for the shipping so I was still ahead.

Other Equipment Needed for Bucket FermenterAir Locks

The next thing we need to do to convert this bucket into a beer fermenter is to addan airlock. Whats an airlock? An airlock is just a simple little device which allows

excess gas to escape the bucket but doesnt let any germ carrying air back in. Howdoes it do that? I did say it was simple right? Inside the main body that looks like apill bottle there is a little tube which is inserted into the bucket with a bit stillextended into the body. The little bottle is partly filled with water and a small cap isplaced on top. As the gas from the bucket tries to escape it lifts the cap and goesout the top making bubbles in the airlock. $1

3-pieceAirlock

Another type of air lock is the S type. Its called this because its shaped like theletter S. It work like the drain trap in your sink. $1

They both work fine which one you chose is up to you. I prefer the 3 piece air lock

because on occasion you might need a blow-offtube and one can easily beinserted into the cap of the 3-piece unit.

bucket lidpurpose. n butnot push

Airlock Gr

S typeairlock

ommet or Rubber Stopper The Airlocks slip into a hole drilled into theusing a airlock grommet which is a rubber stopper made for this

. Make sure the hole in the lid is small enough to slip the grommet ithrough. $2

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Blow-Off Tube Some brews will be extra active fermenters and blow off the top of youairlock. When this happens you simply add an extra length of tubing either into you bucket orinto you airlock and place that in another bucket or container to catch the foam and gasesthat escape. Just remember to cover the end of the tubing with water so germs and bacteriawont enter your brew!

SpigotsAs with everything else there are many spigot types available. It can beplastic, brass or stainless steel. The cheapest and simplest is shown on theright. They go for about $3. I like this style best because it has a taperedspout making it easy to slip hoses on and off and doesnt required you holdit to pour the liquid out. Turn it and it stays on until you turn it off.

Here is what the completed fermenting bucket looks like. That was easy nowwasnt it?

Adhesive ThermometerSticks on the side of your fermenter so you can watchyour temperature.

Pail Opening ToolBuckets are a pain to open, make it easier with this tool

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Cooper s Micro Brew Kit

Coopers Micro Brew Kit consists of:

A plastic 30 litre ( makes up to 6 gallons) fermenter with lid , 1 1 kg CSRBrewing Sugar, a Hydrometer, Sediment Reducer, Plastic Spoon, "Little

Bottler" tube and bottling valve, a Tap, an Airlock, Airlock grommet,Thermometer, 30 740ml PET bottles and caps, 1 Bag of Carbonationdrops an Instruction booklet an Instructional Video, 1 1.7kg CoopersHome Brew Lager Concentrate - pretty complete package! I can not attest

to the quality of the components but it is certainly all you need to get stated except the potto boil water in - I have not personally used this kit but it looks like a nice kit. $70

Coopers Brewery of Australia has been around since 1862. They have sixteen beer kitsthat come with malt, hops and yeast all you add is an additional (2.2 lb) of fermentable toproduce 5 gallons of really good beer. I can recommend the Brewmaster Series beer kits the IPA was really very good!

Other Equipment Needed for Coopers Micro BrewNothing

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The Glass / Plast ic Car boy Ferment er

Glass carboys are the most tradition method of fermenting beer or wine.Today they are also made of plastic. They come in sizes from 3.5 gallons($16) to 6.5 gallons ($25). They are very popular but very slippery and heavy

(especially when full) and explode when dropped!

Carboy Handle This is slipped over the mouth of the carboyto give you a better grip for moving or lifting. I do not considerthis an option. These things really explode when dropped! $5

Carboy cap Used to attach hoses, airlocks and blow-off tubes or rackingcanes to the carboy. $3

You can also just use a drilled rubber stopper but this is more convenient.

You will also need one of the airlocks shown earlier in the bucket fermenter section ofthe guide.

Other Equipment Needed for Carboy FermenterAdhesive Thermometer

Sticks on the side of your fermenter so youcan watch your temperature.

TubingFood grade tubing, used for transferring the wort or beer from one container toanother.

SiphonThis is used to get the beer out of the fermenter and into your bottles or kegs

Carboy BrushA necessity for cleaning inside of carboys

Racking Cane, Tubing and Bottle FillerFor Moving Wort from carboy to Brew Bucket

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Conical Fer ment ers

Commercial breweries and micro breweries generally use huge conical fermenters. Conicalfermenters make brewing amazingly easy (especially on your back). No lifting heavy bucketsor carboys, no need to transfer to a secondary fermenter to clarify your beer. One container

does it all! The most common conical fermenters are made of stainless steel or copper,needless to say they are VERY expensive but they also come in PVC

The steeply angled bottom (about 60 degrees) allows all of the trub and spent yeast fall to thebottom. The trub can be dumped out using the lower ball valves for cleaner, clearer beer. Itis also good for capturing the yeast for reuse later. The upper ball valve is used to removeyour beer above the trub line so you could simply leave the old yeast in there and add newwort to start a whole new batch of beer!

St ainless St eel Conical Fer ment ers

A 7 gallon stainless steel conical fermenter like the one the left by Blichmanngoes for about $500. Not exactly in the beginners price range. Legextensions to get the fermenter off the floor go for around $65.

Other Equipment Needed for the Stainless Steel Conical FermenterAdhesive Thermometer

Sticks on the side of your fermenter so youcan watch your temperature.


Carboy BrushA necessity for cleaning inside of fermenter

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PVC Conical Fer mnet er s

The V-VesselAnother style of conical fermenter and one that I use iscalled the V-Vessel. The V-Vessel System consist of the

unit itself (looks like a big light bulb) with the collectioncapsule, bracket and mounting accessories, cleaningbrush, rubber bung and airlock, an extra female couplerwith a tubing adapter and 5 ft of tubing.

The picture on the left shows how Its designed to hangon a wall but I have mine setup on a stand made ofsome scrap angle iron and rebar (right picture). I usethe extra female coupler and tubing adapter for r(its hanging over the stand).

acking

The collection capsule is used for removing trub and yeast I use a jar.When I reclaim the yeast I use mason jars to store it in so why wash an extra container?This thing is great! I wish I had more than one! I bought this on sale for $99 at Christmastime the regular price is $149.

Other Equipment Needed for the V-Vessel Conical Fermenter

Adhesive ThermometerSticks on the side of your fermenter so youcan watch your temperature.



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MiniBrew Conical FermenterSimilar to the V-Vessels are the MiniBrew polyethylene plastic conicalfermenters. They come in 6.5 gallon, 8 gallon, 15 gallon, 25 gallon and 40gallon sizes. WOW!

One of the things I wished the V-vessel had was a bigger mouth openingso I could actually stick my arm in it for cleaning. The MiniBrew has it!What is also has is a second valve port for draining your brew from abovethe yeast and trub. I have not used this product however I have got to sayIve had to convince myself more than once that I really dont have roomfor another conical. The price of the 6.5 gallon unit is $120.

Other Equipment Needed for the MiniBrew Conical Fermenter

Adhesive ThermometerSticks on the side of your fermenter so youcan watch your temperature.

TubingFood grade tubing, used for transferring the wort or beer from one container to

another.


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Ot her Br ewing Equipment

There are several other things you need for brewing besides a fermenting vessel! I willmention some of them here:

Bottle BrushUsed to scrub out beer bottles.HydrometerUsed for testing the specific gravity of the wort. Here is a close up of hydrometer scale.

FunnelFunnels come in all shapes and sizes get one with a large mouth to make pouring easy.

Large PotFor brewing wort in. See page 5 for sizes. Its really handy to have onewith a spigot on it. Aluminum pots are acceptable. Stainless steel isbest. This is easy to make by adding a brass ball valve, gasketand a nutted nipple. I also have a nylon barbed fitting which threadsinto the ball valve on the outside to add tubing for racking the wort.

Musslin bags or Cheese ClothUsed for addig grains or hops to the wort. Maybe be reused until they self destruct. Somepeople use nylon stockings for this purpose.

All-Grain EquipmentMash Tun Made from a 10 Gallon Rubbermaid cooler - $30

Replace spigotAdded nylon threaded TAdded nylon threaded barb fittings at ends of TAdded Stainless Steel braid to barbed fittings

Added Stainless steel hose clamps to hold braid onTubing for the end of the spigot

Turkey Fryer KitIf your stove is not commercial grade you will need a turkey cooker and propane tank tocook wort over about 3 gallons.

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Basic Br ewing I ngr edient s

To get a better idea of what you will use to brew beer I think now is a good time to talk aboutsome of the ingredients. Because there is little difference between Extract Brewing andExtract with Steeped Grain Brewing I will add the specialty grain ingredients here.

MaltsBeer is a malted beverage so lets take a minute to talk a bit about what malts are. Maltscome in three basic forms:

Malt ed GrainsMalted grain is made from barley, wheat or rye. It is soaked until it sprouts then it is drainedand dried. This process harnesses natural enzymes a process that releases fermentablesugars, and develops the flavors in beer.It is then kiln dried using hot air. Different

temperatures and combinations of air or lack of it produce different styles of grains. Maltedgrains come in over a hundred varieties.

Specialt y Gr ainsSpecialty grains are grains which do not have to be mashed. The starches have beenconverted to sugars in the kilning process so they can be steeped in a bag like a tea. Theycontrol the color, body and flavor of our beer.All Crystal Malts, Chocolate Malt, Black PatentMalt, Cara-Pils or Dextrin Malt, Roasted Barley Malt, Victory (Biscuit) Malt, BelgianAromatic, Belgian Biscuit Malt, Belgian Caramunich, Belgian Caravienne , Belgian Special B,Canadian Honey Malt, German Rauch (Smoked) Malt, German Karaffe Malt, Scottish PeatSmoked Malt, Special Roast are specialty grains.Liquid Malt Ext r act sKnown as LMEs - made from mashing the grains then boiling the liquid into a concentratedsyrup. LMEs come in two forms Unhopped and Hopped. LMEs usually come in cans orplastic jars if purchased in bulk.

Unhopped liquid Malt Extracts - are a concentrate made from a base malt grain withno other flavors or hops added. Some companes refer to this form as UMEs orULMEs. They usually come in Extra Light, Light, Pale, Amber, Dark and Wheat.

Hopped liquid Malt Extracts also called HMEs. HLMEs or beer mixes, are LMEswhich have hops added and sometimes other grains for flavor. They come in everystyle of beer that can be made. You usually have to buy at least one can of UME andone can of HME per batch of extract beer.

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Dr y Malt Ext r act sKnown as DMEs a dry malt powder or spray. Same as LMEs but in powdered form. DMEsweighs less, lasts longer and is easier to handle. Come in Extra Light, Light, Amber, Dark,Extra Dark, Wheat, barley and wheat, Rice, and Barley and Rice.

HopsHops are actually a flower, green in color with yellow lupulin glands down between thepetals. Hops are used for preserving the beer and the essential oils also add flavor andaroma to balance the sweetness of the malt. Come in two forms: Leaf hops and palletizedhops.

Hops come in Cascade, Willamette, Northern Brewer, Fuggles, Horizon, Kent Goldings,Chinook, Tettnanger, Perle, Hallertaur, Centennial, Columbus, Brewers Gold, Mount Hood,Nugget, Saaz, Sterling, German Spalt, Cluster, Challenger, Cyrstal, Eroica, Liberty, StyrianGoldings, Galena, Bullion, Amarillo, Olympic, Magnum, Target, and Hersbrucker varieties to

name a few.

YeastThe yeast cells consume simple sugars and produce a bi-product of carbon dioxide andalcohol. There are two main types of yeast, ale and lager. Ale yeasts like the warmertemperatures between 60-70F, while lager yeasts work best at temperatures of 50- 65Feven as low as 40F.

Yeast also come in two forms Liquid and dry. The liquid yeasts come in any variety of beerstyles and is said to be superior by the brewing experts. They average between $5 and $7.

Dry yeast is more limited in styles but Ive had great luck with several dry yeast brands andinconsistent results with the expensive liquid yeasts. One of the best yeasts Ive ever used isthe Superior Dry Lager yeast which sells for around $1.25. It always works perfectly nomatter what the brew or temperature whether I am making ale or lager! Other good dry yeastis Coopers Ale Yeast $1.25 and Nottingham Ale yeast $1.75.

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Hydr omet er Readings

What is a hydrometer?According to Wikipedia: A hydrometer is an instrument used for determiningthe specific gravity of liquids. It is usually made of glass and consists of acylindrical stem and a bulb weighted with mercury or shot to make it floatupright. The liquid is poured into a tall jar, and the hydrometer is gentlylowered into the liquid until it floats freely.

The point where the surface ofthe liquid touches the stem ofthe hydrometer is noted.Hydrometers usually contain apaper scale inside the stem, so

that the specific gravity (ordensity) can be read directly ingrams per cubic centimeter.

How To Use a Hydr omet er

1. Fill the glass cylinder with a wort sample.

2. Put the hydrometer with the bulb end down. Itwill bob up and down in the sample. Note thatthe sample may overflow from the cylinder.

3. Assure that the hydrometer is not in contactwith the sides of the cylinder and take thereading. Note temperature of the wort sample.

4. We need to correct for temperature by usingthe chart on the right.

The original gravity will be higher because of the sugar in it.The final gravity will be lower because most of the sugarshave fermented out and been converted to alcohol!

HydrometerTemperature Corrections

Example:The temperature of our wort is:100 F, your specific gravity reading (SG)Is 1.040, the Delta G value from the chartis .0061. Round this number off to thesame number of decimal places or .006add that number to the original reading of

1.40 Your corrected specific gravityreading would be 1.046.T C Delta G T F T C Delta G T F

0 -0.0007 32 25 0.0021 77

1 -0.0008 33.8 26 0.0023 78.8

2 -0.0008 35.6 27 0.0026 80.6

3 -0.0009 37.4 28 0.0029 82.4

4 -0.0009 39.2 29 0.0032 84.2

5 -0.0009 41 30 0.0035 86

6 -0.0008 42.8 31 0.0038 87.8

7 -0.0008 44.6 32 0.0041 89.6

8 -0.0007 46.4 33 0.0044 91.49 -0.0007 48.2 34 0.0047 93.2

10 -0.0006 50 35 0.0051 95

11 -0.0005 51.8 36 0.0054 96.8

12 -0.0004 53.6 37 0.0058 98.6

13 -0.0003 55.4 38 0.0061 100.4

14 -0.0001 57.2 39 0.0065 102.2

15 0 59 40 0.0069 104

16 0.0002 60.8 41 0.0073 105.8

17 0.0003 62.6 42 0.0077 107.6

18 0.0005 64.4 43 0.0081 109.4

19 0.0007 66.2 44 0.0085 111.2

20 0.0009 68 45 0.0089 113

21 0.0011 69.8 46 0.0093 114.8

22 0.0013 71.6 47 0.0097 116.6

23 0.0016 73.4 48 0.0102 118.4

24 0.0018 75.2 49 0.0106 120.2

Ta eOn the lower part

ke reading her

of the liquid.

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The Pr e-Brewing St eps

SanitizersWash and sanitize everything before you start! What is everything? The kegs, the covers, thebottles, the spoons you use stir, mix and measure with, the caps, the thermometer, thehydrometer, the counter top, the stove top anything that is used to make or that comes incontact with your brew or brew equipment! It will be handy to have a plate or somethingsanitized to lay your tools down on and keep a small container of sanitizer available for useas you go along. I have an old pretzel container I keep full of sanitizer and after usinganything I rinse it in the sink and throw it back in the sanitizer jug.

There are many types of sanitizer available just be sure to use them according to thedirections provided on the label of the sanitizer you are using . Here is an alphabetical list ofwhats available:

B-BriteIt removes unwanted contaminates on contact and will not transfer contamination.A rinse with cool water is required. One eight ounce tub will make 20 gallons of sanitizingsolution (one tablespoon per gallon of water).

C-BriteA no rinse sanitizer in an easy to use pack that is sufficient for producing a 2 gallons ofsanitizing solution. Ideal if on well water or if rinsing is not desired.

IodophorAn excellent no-rinse sanitizer. Great for bottling, or any time a rinse is impractical. Requires2 minute contact time. The most popular sanitizer among brewpubs & microbreweries.Iodine base sanitizers can cause stains.

Star SanAn excellent no-rinse sanitizer. Lacks the odor normally associated with iodine basedsanitizers. Great for bottling, or any time a rinse is impractical. Requires 2 minute contacttime. Iodine base sanitizers can cause stains.

One StepOxygen based with a favorable cleaning powder and sanitizes on contact. Environmentallyfriendly. No rinsing required. Eight ounce bag will make 20 gallons of sanitizing solution(one tablespoon per gallon of water). I use One Step sanitizer all of the time its easy to usegoes a long way is inexpensive and doe not contain iodine so there is no staining.

Note: if you have iodine sensitivities or allergies or are sensitive or allergic to shellfish(which is generally an indication of an iodine sensitivity or allergy) do not use iodine based

sanitizers!

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Water PreparationIf you have chlorinated water, boil the water you are going to use in your brewing, this is willhelp get rid of the of the chlorine taste. Many people will only use well water, bottled wateror filtered water when brewing. Ive tried bottled, filtered and tap water. As long as I boil thewater before I brew I dont taste a difference when using tap water in the final product.

Some people dont pre-boil their water its not required.

I really love to brew! Sometimes To save time I will boil the water I will be using on the daybefore I brew if I plan on brewing a 5 gallon all-grain brew during the work week.

Dial Thermometer

Monitor the temperature of you wort. The metal clip to attaches to thelip of the kettle. Should read from 0 to 220F

Collect all your ingredients and lets get brewing!

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Br ewing Your Fir st Ext r act Beer

Okay Everythings cleaned, sanitized and gathered up for your first extract brewing sessionway to go! These instruction will work no matter which fermenter type you choose.

What size batch are you brewing? Select the pot size according to the batch size you will bebrewing from the table below.

Pot Sizes (in quar t s)Batch Size in Gallons 1 2.5 3 5 5.5 6 10

Minimum Pot Size 4 10 12 20 24 24 40

Brewing an All Extract WortFor our example we will produce a 5 gallon batch of beer, for a 2.5 gallon batch just reduce

the ingredients by half.

1. Boil 2 gallons of water set it aside and let it cool to room temperature covered.

2. Place 3 gallons of water in a pot turn on the heat.

3. When the water begins to boil turn off the heat and add all extracts and stir well todissolve - you dont want it to stick to the bottom this mixture is called Wort.

4. Once the extracts are dissolved turn the heat back on to boil the wort for 30 minutes.Stir frequently.

NOTE: Once wort begins to foam (Hot Break) watch carefully to prevent boiling over! If it looks like itsgoing to boil over turn off heat briefly or blow on the foam.

5. Turn off the heat cool down to 70 - 90F as quickly as possible by placing pot in asink or tub filled with cold water, or a snow bank stirring constantly or if you have one use awort chiller.

6. When the temperature is down to 70 - 90F aerate the wort by stirring up quickly orusing a wire whisk. Yeast needs oxygen in the wort before its added.

7. Take a hydrometer reading if you have one and record this number correcting fortemperature. Drink the wort from the hydrometer test tube. Never pour this back into thebeer. Make notes on your readings and what youve tasted for later. It will be really sweet!

8. When there are plenty of bubbles in the wort add the yeast now stir gently you dontwant to add air to the wort once the yeast has been added. Let it sit for 10 minutes.

9. Transfer wort to your fermenter of choice being careful to leave as much of the sedimentand trub behind as you can.

10. Place Air lock on ferementer (if there is one)

11. Place fermenter in a place where it will be out of the sunlight and undisturbed forseveral days to a few weeks depending on the recipe. In about 24 hours you should seebubbling in the airlock. Keep an eye on the temperatures!

12. Clean up!

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Brewing Extract with Steeped Grains and HopsFor our example we will produce a 5 gallon batch of beer, for a 2.5 gallon batch just reducethe ingredients by half.

1. Boil 2 gallons of water set it aside and let it cool to room temperature covered.

2. Place 3 gallons of water in a pot turn on the heat.

3. Place grains in the muslin bag tie a knot in it and steep the grains

swirling them around until the temperature reaches 165F. Do not let

water get above 170F before removing grains or it will leave an offtaste in your beer!

4. Remove grains

5. When the water begins to boil turn off the heat and add all extractsand stir well to dissolve - you dont want it to stick to the bottom this mixture is calledWort.

6. Once the extracts are dissolved turn the heat back on to boil the wort. Stir frequently.

NOTE: Once wort begins to foam (Hot Break) watch carefully to prevent boiling over! If it looks like itsgoing to boil over turn off heat briefly or blow on the foam.

7. If you have bittering hops place them in a clean muslin bag tie a knot in it and add themnow. Boil Bittering hops for 55 minutes.

8. If you have aroma or finishing hops add for the last 5 minutes of the boil.

9. Turn off the heat cool down to 70 - 90F as quickly as possible by placing pot in asink or tub filled with cold water, or a snow bank stirring constantly. If you have one use awort chiller.

10. When the temperature is down to 70 - 90F aerate the wort by stirring up quickly orwhip it using a wire whisk. Yeast needs oxygen in the wort before its added.

11. Take a hydrometer reading if you have one and record this number correcting fortemperature. Drink the wort from the hydrometer test tube. Never pour this back into thebeer. Make notes on your readings and what youve tasted for later. It will be really sweet!


12. Transfer wort to your fermenter of choice being careful to leave as much of the sedimentand trub behind as you can.


14. Place fermenter in a place where it will be out of the sunlight and undisturbed forseveral days to a few weeks depending on the recipe. In about 24 hours you should see

bubbling in the airlock. Keep an eye on the temperatures!15. Clean up!

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Br ewing Your Fir st All-Gr ain Beer

All-Grain. The term sends shivers down the spines of those who are unaware of how simpleit really is. Youve probably read dozens of texts on the subject only to find it still remainsshrouded in mystery. If your like me when I first got started all the information available

spoke of this wizardry and how difficult it is - and for that reason I did not start brewing formany years after I got the urge to try.

Then I found Mr. Beer, which introduced me to extract brewing in small batches. My secondbatch of beer was a Coopers Brew Master Select kit with steeped grains. I just followed therecipe everything was in the kit!

Okay lets get rid of the fear this is easy, a bit more time consuming but easy! Here we go!

This will be for 5 gallons of beer assuming a few different grains and hops - so get out allyou equipment wash and sanitize everything!

If you dont have a grain mill order your grain pre-crushed.

To make it easy on your back place the boiling pot (HLT) on the stovewith tubing attached long enough to go into the Mash Tun, place theMash tun on a high chair or stool with tubing long enough to reach the bottom of thecollection pot and a collection pot for the Mash tun on a chair or the floor. It should looksomething like this if possible:

Stove

StoolChair

Pot

Mash

Tun

HLT

Lets Get Started!

The Mash1. Bring about 4 gallons of water up to about 160F

NOTE: Lets say we have a total of 8 pounds of grain we need about 1 quarts of water perpound of grain to put into the Mash Tun with the grain so thats 12 quarts of water (the 4gallons from step 1).

2. Pour a few gallons of hot tap water into you Mash Tun to warm it up and let it sit withthe lid on for about 5 minutes then dump it and put the lid back on.

3. Place all of the crushed grains into the Mash Tun.

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4. Slowly add the water to the grains to cover them by about an inch and stir them up tomake sure they arent stuck together and let them sit covered for one hour. The

temperature in the grain bed should be about 150F. This is called the Mash.

NOTE: Place a saucer or colander over the grain bed to keep from stirring up the grains.5. Add about 4 more gallons of water to the HLT and bring this

temperature up to about 170 F.

6. After an hour run about 2 quarts of water out of the Mash Tun intothe collection pot. This water will have a lot of grain particles in it.Thats normal! This is called the first runnings. Slowly pout thisback into the Mash Tun.

7. Pour another 2 quarts of water out from the Mash tun into thecollection pot. This should be cleaner than the first. Again slowlypour this back into the Mash Tun.

8. Continue to pour a few quarts Mash water at a time into thecollection pot until it runs clear. This may take only be once orcould take 3 or 4 tries.

9. Once the Mash water runs fairly free of particles open the spigot atiny bit to let the mash water slowly drip into the collection pot at the same timeslowly open the spigot of the HLT and let it run into the Mash Tun. This should takeabout an hour to complete so just a trickle will do!

NOTE: As the water passes through the grains it takes with it the sugars which willbecome the wort. The more water that passes through the lighter the color of the run off.10. Once all the water has passed through the grain checkthe specific gravity of the final

runoff .It should be between 1.010 and 1.000. If you dont have a hydrometer justlook to see that its really light compared to the earlierrunnings.

NOTE: Now the Mashing is done and all the sugars (extracts) arecollected. The rest is just extract brewing.

Back To Extract Brewing1. Bring the wort to a boil. You should have collected about 6

gallons of extract. You will lose about a gallon during the boil. Ifyou dont have 5 gallons add water to bringit up to 5 gallons.

2. If you have bittering hops place them in a clean muslin bag tiea knot in it and add them now. Boil Bittering hops for 55minutes.

3. If you have aroma or finishing hops add for the last 5 minutes of the boil.

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4. Turn off the heat cool down to 70 - 90F as quickly as possible by placing pot in asink or tub filled with cold water, or a snow bank stirring constantly. If you have oneuse a wort chiller.

5. When the temperature is down to 70 - 90F aerate the wort by stirring up quickly orwhip it using a wire whisk. Yeast needs oxygen in the wort before its added.

6. Take a hydrometer reading if you have one and record this number correcting for

temperature. Drink the wort from the hydrometer test tube. Never pour this back intothe beer. Make notes on your readings and what youve tasted for later. It will bereally sweet!


8. Transfer wort to your fermenter of choice being careful to leave as much of thesediment and trub behind as you can.


10. Place fermenter in a place where it will be out of the sunlight and undisturbed forseveral days to a few weeks depending on the recipe. In about 24 hours you should

see bubbling in the airlock. Keep an eye on the temperatures!11. Clean up!

Now that wasnt to hard was it?

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Calculat ing % Alcohol

So why do we want to know this? Who cares anyway? We can use these numbers tocaculate how much alcohol is in our beer!

Most states regulate how much alcohol is allowed to be present in the beer within itsboarders. Thats why in one state the same brand of beer maybe be higher or lower inalcohol content or not available at all. That stinks but thats the law, however these laws donot apply to Homebrewed beer! Yippie!

Here are two basic methods for calculating % alcohol in beer, the percentage of alcohol byvolume (ABV) and the percentage of alcohol by weight (ABW). We need to retrieve the notewe made of the original gravity (O.G.) when we finished brewing. Then just before we bottlewe take another reading the final gravity (F.G.). Some people call this the terminal gravity(T.G.).

% Alcohol by VolumeTo calculate the percentage of alcohol by volume we take our original gravity and subtractour final gravity, multiple that by 1.333, then multiply that by 100.

Calculating % Alcohol by Volume (%ABV)(O.G. F.G.) x 1.333 x 100

% Alcohol by WeightTo calculate the percentage of alcohol by weight we take our original gravity and subtractour final gravity, multiply that by 105.

Calculating % Alcohol by Weight (%ABW)(O.G. F.G.) x 105

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Pr epar ing t o Bot t le Your Beer

How do you know when the beer is ready to bottle? There are a few ways depending onwhether or not you have a hydrometer.

I have a Hydrometer!If you have a hydrometer you can take a specific gravity reading and compare it to the recipereadings. Most recipes will list the original gravity and the final gravity that was achievedwhen the recipe was designed. If it is not listed you can go to this website, type in theingredients and it will calculate it for you. http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/ Use thisto determine your final gravity.

After about a week, maybe two, depending on your recipe, your beer will be ready to bottle.The beer will nearly stop fermenting, you wont see anyor very few bubbles in the airlock.

Note: Recipes that have a lot of fermentables or fruit can take up to a month so be patient.

If the airlock is happily bubbling away let it sit for a few more days. Just watch it. As long assomething is happening in there its still working. The alcohol acts like a preservative sodont worry if you gone over by a few days. I know a guy that had a good batch of brew thatforgot it for over a month! I wouldnt push it though.

I dont have a HydrometerIf the air lock hasnt bubbled up more than once every few minutes you could taste it. Doesit taste really sweet? Compare the flavors from the day you brewed it until now. If its reallysweet wait a few more days. If it taste about right but flat (dont panic its not carbonated

yet) its probably ready to bottle.

What do I need to Bottle my Beer?Well first you need bottles and lots of them! Before bottling collect the number of bottles andcaps you will need (see chart on page 5) . Wash thoroughly and scrub with a bottle brush,then sanitize them.

Place metal caps in boiling water, but not plastic caps used for PET bottles. Turn the heat off

first before adding PET bottle caps so you dont melt them. When the cap is hot it sealsbetter.

You can use PET bottles with re-useable plastic caps or glass crown top bottles with acapper. Ive heard several people claim that PET bottles wont keep long because they leakair and your beer will loose carbonation. I have some beer bottled in PET bottles that havebeen bottled over a year and they are fine. Hot caps seal better!

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What is a PET Bottle?PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate, a plastic resin and a form of polyester.Basically any bottle that at one time held a carbonated beverage can be washed,sanitized and re-used along with the caps. They can also be purchased in browncolored bottles like the one on the right, which is better for you beer because itblocks UV light which can ruin your beer.I dont usually leave my beer in the sun doyou? Some people claim clear and green glass bottles leave a funny taste in yourbeer, Ive never found this to be true.

I bottle at least two beers from every batch in clear glass bottles so I can evaluate what Ihave. I evaluate its color, clarity, yeast remnants etc. These I save in brown paper linedboxes and drink it on its anniversary date a year after I brewed it. If you think it was good afew weeks after you brewed it let one sit a year!

Whats a Crown Top Bottle?Unfortunately, many of our beers today come in twist off caps. You can notre-use these with a hand capper. The old style bottle that require a bottleopener are crown tops. You can get them from a recycler or your localbeverage store or get your friends to save them for you. See photo on right.

For glass bottles you need a capper and lots of caps. I use the one on theleft. Its called a universal capper and costs about $12.

Metal Bottle Caps come in bags either by the pound or the gross. I buythese at $1.20 a gross from Quality Wine and Ale I think they are cute!http://www.homebrewit.com/aisle/2060

Okay Ive got my bottles and caps washed and sanitized what next? Well priming the beer ofcourse!

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Pr iming t he Beer

Before you can bottle you need to prime the beer. We can do this with just about any sugarbut corn sugar is about the best. Some sugars like table sugar are inconsistent and cancause off flavors in your beer. DME can be used as well but its more expensive and why not

save that for another batch of beer?

What is priming? Priming is just adding more sugar to the beer so the yeast will eat it andcreate CO2 that it will carbonate the beer based on the table below:

Corn Sugar for 5 Gallons = 13 1/2 TablespoonsBottle Size Priming Sugar

7 oz. .35 Teaspoon

12 oz. 3/4 Teaspoon each

1 liter/quart 2 1/2 Teaspoons each

16 oz. 1 Teaspoon each2 liter 1 1/2 Tablespoons each

22 oz. 1 1/2 Teaspoons each

Like everything else there is more than one way to do this.

Bot t le Pr iming

To bottle prime you scoop the appropriate amount of sugar into each and every bottle thenpour in the beer into the bottle and swish it around a bit.

Bulk Pr imingTo bulk prime you simply measure out the total corn sugar required to prime all of the beer(see chart above) then and 2/3 cups of boiling water priming the whole batch of beer at atone time. To do this follow the instructions below:

Boil the water, remove it from the heat and then dissolve the corn sugar in the water.Cover the pot and let the sugar syrup cool to room temperature. Once this sugarmixture has cooled add it to the fermenter and stir slowly using a sanitized spoon,taking care not to stir it up to much.

NOTE: If you are using a brew bucket to transfer the beer from a carboy to the brew bucketdont prime until you are ready to rack the beer from the brew bucket to the bottles.

The most accurate way to calculate your priming sugar is to use a nomograph. A nomographeliminates the need to do any calculations you just draw a line or place a straightedge orruler on the mark for the temperature of your beer, and the volumes of CO2 required forthat style of beer. The place where the line crosses the sugar line is how much sugar youneed to prime 5 gallons of that specific beer. This method is much more accurate because it

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takes into consideration the temperature, and the style of the beer you have brewed. Atlower temperatures, the beer can dissolve more CO2, so the colder the beer the better.

Please note: Temperatures are listed in degrees Fahrenheit (F) and sugar is measured inounces (oz.).

Volumes of CO2 RequiredAccording To Beer Style

Beer Style Volumes CO2

British-Style Ales 1.5 - 2.0

Porter, Stout 1.7 - 2.3

Belgian Ales 1.9 - 2.4European Lagers 2.2 - 2.7

American Ales & Lagers 2.2 - 2.7

Lambic 2.4 - 2.8

Fruit Lambic 3.0 - 4.5

German Wheat Beer 3.3 - 4.5

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I t s Bot t ling Time!

Bottling Your BeerOnce again you will need to transfer your beer - this is known as racking. This time we will

rack into bottles. How you do this depends on the type of fermenter you have.

Racking From A Ferment er Wit h A Spigot

If your fermenter has a spigot its easy. Just put a bit sanitized tubing on the spigot run thetubing to the bottom of the bottle open the spigot and fill up the bottle trying not to get anyair in. Set the cap on top of the bottle but dont cap it yet. If you let it sit a until you fill all ofthe bottles it will create CO2 and expel any air out of the bottle keeping your beer fresherlonger.

Racking From a CarboyIf you are using a carboy you will need a clean, sanitized racking cane, tubing, bottle fillerand brew bucket. You place the racking cane in the carboy and place it up on the table, putthe bucket on a chair below the carboy and put the tubing in the bucket. Release the clampon the hose and transfer the beer into the bucket keeping the tubing submerged to preventsplashing.

Add the bottle filler to the racking cane and close the clamp. Put the brew bucket on thetable and the bottles on the chair. When your ready push the bottle filler into the bottom ofthe bottle and fill. When you release the pressur on the bottle filler it will stop the flow ofbeer. Set the cap on top of the bottle but dont cap it yet. If you let it sit a until you fill all ofthe bottles it will create CO2 and expel any air out of the bottle keeping your beer fresherlonger.

Bot t le Condit ioningOnce all the beer is bottled you need to crimp the caps and let it sit in a cool place out ofsunlight to condition for a week to 10 days. For some beers it is suggested that youcondition for up to a month so check the recipes instructions on this. In general, the longeryou condition the beer better it tastes.

Chill ing and Drinking

After the necessary conditioning period put your beer in the refrigerator for a few days to aweek and enjoy!

Congratulations -Youve made you first homebrewed beer! Now wasnt that simple?

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Appendix

Ive added a few handy reference tables to aid you in your brewing. Let me explain whatthese tables can do for you and why I added them.

Grains, Extracts & Sugars

This table will help you determine the type of malt, what form in comes in, (I.e. grain, LME orDME), where the malt originates from, the potential color contribution to your beer, whetheror not it must be mashed (no means you can steep it) , the average specific gravity it willattain, the maximum amount you should use per batch of beer, and a brief description ofwhat it should be used for.

Hops

This table will help you determine the type of Hop, what its used for (Aroma or bittering), thepercent of alpha acids which may be obtained, what beers it should be used in, emergencysubstitutions if you run out and a description of its flavors.

Spices, Flavors & Finings

This table will help you determine the type, quantity per 5 gallon batch of beer, when to addit and for how long, what its used for and a brief description of its use.

Yeast Statistics

This table will help you determine the Brand Name with item number, the type and form itcomes in, the flocculation and attenuation which should be achieved, the minimum andmaximum temperature for use.

Beer Style Statistics With Commercial ExamplesThere are many different styles given to a beer that describes its overall character andorigin. Reading these charts can sometimes be confusing. Maybe you like a particular brandof beer but you dont know the style this table is for you. It combines all the specifics ofthe beer style and includes commercial example of that style to help you decide what youmay want to brew.

Clink . .

Ahhhhh

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Grains, Extracts & Sugars

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Hops

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Spices, Flavors & Finings

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Yeast Statistics

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Beer Style Statistics With Commercial Examples

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Documents

Djs Very Basic Brewers Guide