DT NotesStephanie Ling

Fashion Design

Properties of Merino Wool

PROPERTY WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? WHAT CLOTHING WOULD THIS PROPERTY BE GOOD FOR?

SOFT Merino fibres are extremely fine, enabling them to bend far more than traditional, coarser wool fibres. This makes Merino wool feel soft and luxuriously gentle next to your skin

Sheets

ELASTIC Natural elasticity helps Merino garments stretch with you and return to their original shape.

Jumper, Sweaters, Pants, leggings, tops

BREATHABLE Merino fibres can absorb large quantities of moisture vapour then move it away to evaporate into the air. So Merino clothing is extremely breathable and less prone to clamminess.

Daywear, tops, jumpers, sportswear

WARM AND COOL

In contrast to synthetics, Merino is an active fibre that reacts to changes in body temperature. So it helps you stay warm when the weather is cold, and cool when the weather is hot.

Sportswear, because when you work out you get hot.

STATIC RESISTANT

Because Merino can absorb moisture vapour, it tends not to create static electricity, helping it to drape beautifully and be less likely to cling uncomfortably to your body than other fabrics.

Dresses, tanks, jumpers

ODOUR RESISTANT

Can absorb moisture vapour, which means less sweat on your body. Merino absorbs the odours from sweat, which are released during washing.

Sportswear, daywear, tops, jumpers

STAIN RESISTANT

Merino fibres have a natural protective outer layer that prevents stains from being absorbed. And because Merino tends not to generate static, it attracts less dust and lint.

Dresses, jumpers, work clothes,

MACHINE WASHABLE

Recent innovations mean many Merino garments can now be machine-washed and tumble dried. It's very elastic too so requires less ironing than other fabrics

School uniforms, because you don't want to hand wash them.

ANTI-WRINKLE Merino fibre returns to its natural shape after being handled or folded giving Merino garments a natural resistance to wrinkles.

Dresses, formal wear, suits

FIRE RESISTANT You are safer in Merino because it is flame retardant, doesn't melt and stick to the skin, and even self-extinguishes when the source of flame is removed.

Fire fighter uniforms

A NATURAL BARRIER TO UV

Merino is much better at protecting you from UV radiation than most synthetics and cotton. So the whole family will be safer wearing it on sunny days.

Outer clothing, eg. T-shirts that you wear in summer.

HEALTHY Regulates body temperatures and heart rate to improve sleep.

Sleepwear

NATURAL Merino is grown year-round by Australia's 70 million Merino sheep, consuming a simple blend of water, air, sunshine and grass.

Trans seasonal clothing - wear the wool all year round.

BIODEGRADABLE

When Merino fibre is disposed of, it will naturally decompose in soil in a matter of years, slowly releasing valuable nutrients back into the earth.

Underwear, towels

RENEWABLE Every year Australian Merino sheep produce a new fleece, making Merino a completely renewable fibre source.

All clothing - good for the environment.

SLEEK AND ELEGANT (excellent handle and drape)

Merino benefits from what designers call excellent handle and drape. To the wearer this means clothes that effortlessly, elegantly and beautifully follow the form of the body.

Gowns, camisoles

COLOURFUL (colourfast)

When Merino clothing is dyed it is colourfast; and newly developed colouring techniques give designers full scope for their creativity.

Summer clothing

FASHIONABLE Australian Merino is lively and flexible, coming in a wide choice of textures, weaves and weights. It can be woven or knitted and worn in every season.

All fashion! The more variety of weave and texture gives designers more options.

EASY TO TAILOR

Merino is a delight to tailor. It cuts cleanly, doesn't fray and isn't marked by pins. It also responds instantly to ironing and won't crush with handling.

Tailored suits, pleated clothing

EASY TO TAILOR

Merino fabric can be permanently set by the use of temperature and moisture, giving designers the freedom to create a wide range of shapes and styles.

Tailored pants or pleated skirt.

INNOVATIVE Clothing designers can choose from a range of innovative treatments that allow them to create unique textures and finishes on Merino garments.

Blouses, skirts, tops, pants

Parts of a Pattern1. Pattern piece diagram

Silhouettes of all pattern pieces in envelope, r all garments and all versions of each. Key similar one at right explains which pieces to use for which style.

2. Cutting GuidesRecommended layouts, given for different views, several fabric widths and the pattern's entire size range, illustration.

3. Sewing instructionsStep-by-step directions for constructing parts of garment in proper order; accompanying sketches illustrate technique.

Pattern Symbols

Fabric TermsWoven fabric refers to fabric which has been constructed by interlacing yarns at right angles

Warp refers to the vertical yarns that run the length of the fabricWeft refers to the horizontal filling yarns

Knitted fabric refers to material where a yarn is interlooped to form the fabric. In general these fabrics have some degree of stretch.

Wales refers to the column of loops in the lengthwise direction of a knit fabric.Course refers to the crosswise row of loops which is usually seen on the reverse side of knit fabrics.

Non-woven fabric refers to material which is formed by the intermeshing, fusing or bonding of fibres together. It is used as interfacing, wadding, insulation or padding. Interfacing is a specialised woven or nonwoven fabric which is placed between the outer fabric of an article and the facing to provide support, shape and stability. Lining is an inner fabric layer which provides a smooth inner finish, assist in shape retention. Lining is also used with sheer fabrics. Notions are the extra items required to complete a project, they can include button, zippers, press-studs, thread, lace, braids binding and the like. Selvedge is the narrow edge along the lengthwise direction of a fabric that, in general, does not fray. Grain is the direction in which the yarns in a woven fabric run. The lengthwise grain is referred to as the straight grain and is important when laying out patterns. True bias is the diagonal direction of the fabric which is at a 45 angle to the straight grain. Nap is fabric that has direction with a texture, pattern or print.

Folding FabricGenerally, fabric is folded lengthwise, that is the fabric is folded in half with the selvedges together.

Crosswise folded fabric is often used when pattern pieces are large.

Single thickness layouts are used when there is only one pattern piece required. A centrefold layout is used when there are a number of narrow pattern pieces to be cut on the fold. To lay your fabric out you will need to fold each selvedge into the centre of your fabric. Measure to make sure you have folded both sides equally.

Pinning and Cutting Keep the fabric flat on the table. Place all pattern pieces onto the fabric before pinning and cutting. Pin horizontally to, and inside the cutting line and diagonally at the corners of the pattern

about 10cm apart. Use long handle dressmaking shears. Cut with steady, long even cuts. Place on hand on the pattern and fabric while cutting. Do not move the fabric while cutting. Use the point of the scissors to cut notches outwards. Check that you have cut the correct number of pieces. Save the fabric scraps until you have completed the project. You may find that you need

them for samples or tests or if a problem arises.

Construction Techniques Baste - tack with long, loose stitches in preparation for sewing (temporary stitches) Machine stitch - straight stitch - width 0, length 2.5 Top stich - stitching parallel to the edge of a garment to give it a tailored edge Trim corners - trimming the corners of adjoining pieces to reduce bulk in the garment Press - ironing the material to sit the right way Interface - an internal material to provide strength Darts - parts in a garment to be taken in for better fit Seam allowance - the 1-2cm extra on a template to allow for seam when sewing pieces

together

The Design Process

Project Proposal Design Situation – Identifying a need and opportunity. Factors Influencing the Design – inspiration and existing products. Criteria for Success – checklist and guide to evaluate initial designs. Areas of Investigation – areas to be considered and investigated during the development of

the project. Helps identify and describe the areas to be considered from software, design styles and application of materials, tools and techniques that need to be investigated for your project to proceed.

Creative Statement – presents your ideas and innovations to viewers.

Project Management Time Plan – organises and provides a guide for time limits for each step of the design

process. Action Plan – organises when each step needs to be commenced.

Project Development Ideas – initial designs and ideas show the progression to the final idea. Final Idea – the completed design with clear annotations of construction methods.

Project Evaluation Criteria for Success – criteria evaluation ensures all requirements are met. Form & Function – evaluation of the product ensures the form and function are as proposed.

Project Solution Tools – tools required for production of design. Materials – materials needed for design production. Techniques – techniques needed to learn for design production.