end trm doc

8/13/2019 end trm doc

1/73

1


2/73

2

Abstract

Pre-production is the area where all the sampling, testing and sourcing is done. Studies

show that Pre-production stage itself takes almost 60% time of the total order. The costinvolved in the stages of Pre-Production is almost three times that of the bulk production.

The product development stage involves the trend research anticipating through the ideas

of development of prototypes, setting the base range for the product. It also comprises of

the fabric selection from fabric fairs and assortment of newly developed fabrics from the

supplier.

This project deals with three key areas of pre production i.e. fabric management, the

delays that occur at the pre production stage and lead time in the stages of Pre-

Production. The data taken here covers 15 different styles at the pre production stage andone style at the production stage. The lead time for the production depends critically on

the time taken for sourcing of raw materials, mainly fabric. The lead time varies as and

when there are delays in the TNA. Most of the times, there are delays in the TNA due to

late delivery of fabric to the involved factory. The planned lead time is the pre advised

time proposed by the merchandiser in the TNA whereas the actual lead time is the

extension of dates which occur in the TNA after delays happening in the development of

the style.

The delays at this stage are the extensions which merchants ask the buyer to give beyond

the planned schedule.

To save this time and to meet the required in store dates for the season, the best thing to

be done is to manage the pre production activities in a better way. Reducing the non-

value added activities will reduce the delays thus making the entire supply chain more

efficient and agile. Instructing the vendors correctly and organising a vendor assurance

study before giving the order to any vendor would be beneficial. Also, the vendors here

have to understand their responsibilities and their part in meeting the timely delivery.

While in the production stage, operator training would be the best method so as to

improve the efficiency and quality which the manufacturing industry of today strives for

the most. Also, presence of an Industrial engineer is very important for the correctplanning and implementation at the time of bulk production.

These measures, if followed meticulously, would surely help meeting the deadlines

placed by the buyer, thus making our stores ready for the season on time.


3/73

3

Certificate

This is to certify thatthis Project Report titled FABRICMANAGEMENT, THEIR DELAYS AND LEAD TIME ANALYSIS" is basedon my original research work, conducted under the guidance of Dr.D.Samuel Wesley and Mr. T. Murugan towards partialfulfillment of therequirement for award of the Bachelors Degree in FashionTechnology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of FashionTechnology, Chennai.

No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material,

wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.

Signature of Author/Researchers


4/73

4

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to my guide Dr.

D. Samuel Wesley and Mr. T.Murugan for their exemplary guidance, monitoring and

constant encouragement throughout the course of this thesis. The blessing, help and

guidance given by them time to time shall carry me a long way in the journey of life on

which I am about to embark.

I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to my Company Mentor

Mr. Anurag Oberoi (Team leader Ann Taylor LOFT Casual bottoms and Ann Taylor

Dress, Triburg, for his cordial support, valuable information and guidance, which helped

me in completing this task through various stages.

I am obliged to staff members of Triburg for the valuable information provided by themin their respective fields. I am grateful for their cooperation during the period of my

assignment.


5/73

5

CONTENTS

Sl. No. Description Page no.

Acknowledgement

Chapter 1

Introduction 8

Background 10

Objective 9

Scope of study 10

Expected benefits 10

Company profile 11


6/73

6


Chapter 2

Research methodology 13

Research process 13

Chapter 3

Product development 23

Chapter 4

Delay analysis 35

Chapter 5

Lead time analysis 47


7/73

7


Chapter 6

Conclusions 68

Developing action plan 70

Limitations & future prospect of project 71

Annexure 72


8/73

8

Chapter 1: An Introduction


9/73

9

OBJECTIVES:

Primary Objectives:

1. To find out reasons for delay at pre-production stage.

2. Understanding the work culture of different departments.

3. Providing probable solutions to the delays.

4. To find the difference between the actual lead time and theAnd the planned lead time.

5. To reduce lead time of operations by combining different operations.

Secondary Objectives:

1. Understanding the concept & dynamics of delay in Pre-production.

2. To understand the various aspects in Apparel manufacturing which cause delays in pre-production activities.

Research topic: Fabric management, their delays and lead time analysis

Research Problem: A study on causes for delays in pre-production activities of

garment manufacturing.

Research objectives:

To analyse the extent of delays To determine the extent of pre production delays To identify potential areas causing frequent delays To determine factors those can be controllable To determine if there is some difference in the actual and planned lead time.


10/73

10

BACKGROUND:

Evolving consumer preferences whose awareness level of trends, fashion consciousness,

disposable income and consumerism is at all time high. This much consumer awareness

wants different merchandise at even shorter intervals complimented with greater

shopping experience, which is inducing product lifecycles to shrink dramatically.

Pre-production delays are the extension of days beyond standard and planned schedule

for the activities starting from order enquiry to all approvals required for bulk production.

These delays increases the lead time even more than the standard one and hence to

survive in the global competitiveness is more difficult for the global manufacturers.

NEED FOR THE STUDY:

Pre production networks are unique for every single enterprise, every single buyer and

even for every single order. In case of absence of standardized process network,

preproduction activities are highly prone to delays in the process.

SCOPE OF THE STUDY :

It will help us to get a view of process flow of production at pre-production.

Make company proactive in approach to forsee kind of delivery schedule and get insight

of delays. Establish framework for the set of activities required for excluding the delay

element.

EXPECTED BENEFITS:

Reduce delays in shipment

Reduction in lead-time (if possible)

LOCATION: TRIBURG , Udhyog vihar sector 20, Gurgaon


11/73

11

Company Profile: (An introduction)

Triburg is the Largest Apparel Sourcing company in South Asia with offices in 5countries. It supplies US $500 Million in merchandise for global customers (American

Eagle, Armani Exchange, DKNY, Ann Taylor etc.)Product mix ranges from Apparel toHome Furnishings.

Triburg is the number one buying office in the Indian subcontinent with years ofexperience in the Indian sub-continent with over 29 years of experience in the sourcingbusiness. Triburg is the only company in india with expertise in providing a completeproduct range in textile apparel, leather apparel, shoes , bags and home productsincluding soft lines and hard lines.

In 1979, two young technocrats decided to give a new meaning to apparel sourcing insouth asia, they targeted their entrepreneurial drive at becoming a market leading

enterprise. With their hands on approach, a personal commitment to responsibility,meeting customer needs proactively and delivering world-class quality on time, thatvision became a reality. They grew from strength to strength, picking and training theirgrowing team with the same basic values. Their motto is the mission statement which isepitomized in all their 3 regional offices(Dubai, Srilanka and india) and their 22 branchand liaison offices spread over Asia and the United States.

Delays:

Delay means retarding detention and postponement of set of event and activities and toput off them to future time.It is unplanned deferment of a scheduled activity because of something or occurrence thatimpede its commencement or continuation. It has time associated cost effects on a contactwhich may be measured in term of time money or a combination thereof. As far asapparel industry is concerned Deviation from quoted lead is referred to as detentionDelays occur due to several reasons and these can occur at various stages of product andhence broadlyMain causes for the delay can be classified as:-

1) Technical Problem

2) Employee related Problem3) System related Problem


12/73

12

1) Technical Problem :These problems are incurred due to some problem in making out the use of technology

effectively and efficiently. Poor utilization of capacities also lead to delay as it would

result to piling up of work which would stand pending until the earlier loads are

completed.

2) Employee related Problem :The garmenting activities are primarily people driven functions and employee play a very

important role. There are several reasons under this category also some of them are

miscommunication, wrong interpretation of the information and work get affected as all

activities are interdependent on each other.

3) System related Problem :This is mainly related to the process activities and the way entire system works. This

includes the time taken in documentation, inter-departmental communication, the release

of orders, flow of work, processes followed. The system is unique to every company and

it is way the various functions are executed. And developing a system to work is very

difficult.


13/73

13

Methodology

Step I: Define the problem and the research objectives

Research problem: A study on causes for delays in pre production activities and fabric

management before the fabric ex mill date.

Research objectives:

1. To analyze the extent of delays in executing the orders.

2. To determine the extent of pre-production delays in overall delays.

3. To determine the potential areas causing frequent delays.

4. To determine factors those can be controllable, to avoid delays.

Step II: Develop the research plan:

Designing a research plan calls for decisions on data sources, choice of research design,research approaches, research instruments, sampling plan and contact methods.

Data Sources:In this research, both secondary as well as primary data will be used.Also help is taken from Internet, magazines and newspapers that helps in getting latestinformation about the happenings in this sector.The Secondary data also includes Process flow charts, process parameters, andprocedures. The primary data consists of survey of various people involved in relatedactivities and Queries from company employees to understand the process better.


14/73

14

Research Design:

Research design is the plan, structure and strategy of investigation conceived so as toobtain answers to research questions and to control variance. A research design specifiesthe methods and procedures for constructing a particular study.In this research, the design is Descriptive research.

Descriptive research:

It can be defined as fact finding with adequate interpretations. Fact finding would involvejust data gathering. In descriptive research more is involved in the form of reflectivethinking. Reflective thinking relates the facts gathered to the objectives and theassumptions of the study. It involves observing things with out influencing them.The Descriptive research focuses on the factors, which help to understand the various

causes for delays in related activities.

Step III: Collect the information :

Information collection from the various people involved in production over a period of

time is a major task for me in carrying out my research work. On the basis of the proper

existing systems assigned for each activity in the organisation there was freedom for

collecting data directly or interviewing concerned persons.

Step IV: Analyze the information

The data had been segregated manually and the analysis work has been done with thehelp of MS.Excel. The data on Orders which primarily got delayed in Pre-productionstage have been analyzed on the basis of the following parameters:

Sample submissions Quality problems Lab dips


15/73

15

LITERATURE REVIEW:

The sourcing decision does not merely depend on the cost of manufacturing andshipping. Additional cost implications of lead-time, inventory, supplier performance,and customer service level are also to be considered. These parameters are furtherreflected in the inflexibility costs of using suppliers that are inflexible an unresponsiveto changes in demand (before, during and after a product selling season) that lead to adisproportionate level of demand amplification across a longer supply network and anumber of considerable cost implications. In other words retailers that are unable torespond to sudden market changes will experience vast losses in terms of finalmarkdowns and missed sales opportunities.[1]

Trims and fabric can cause problems for both designers and manufacturers if designersplan their production badly and misjudge the lead times for delivery of fabric and allother components (buttons, zips, labels etc.) When placing an order, time also needs tobe factored in for additional processes such as sending patterns out for grading.

Incomplete or poorly timed delivery of components to factories can cause a lot ofproduction problems. Designers sometimes assume that because factories have thefabric and patterns, they will be able to start work, but factories will not usually startwork until all of the components have been delivered. Trims often have just as longorder lead times as fabrics, which many designers who are just starting out don't seemto be aware of. Sometimes, what seems like the smallest part of the garment - forexample the sizing or composition label - can delay the finishing of a garment byweeks.[2]

In satisfying the need for effective service performance the manufacturer must ensurethat the correct customer order quantity is produced and supplied to the requiredquality and at the agreed delivery date through the supply chain. By paying attention toall sources of waste for both innovative and functional products the enterprise willwork towards meeting or exceeding the customers expectations. However, the

objective of efficiency of the manufacturing facility is derived from a productionorientation of an enterprise where its core focus is geared to internal productionperformance measures of manufacturing product at a rate greater than the norm. Thecompletion of specific customers requirements for order quantity is of a secondary

importance. The objective of effectiveness however is derived from a customeroriented manufacturing enterprise where the prime objective is to service the customerorder requirements explicitly. This potential conflict of interest from satisfying the
http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-1http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-1http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-2http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-2http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-2http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-1


16/73

16

operating units demands and the customers expectations needs to be reconciled bythe short term shop floor planning and control system.[3]

For any designer in todays world, a key to success is having access to a reliable and

professional manufacturer or production unit. But many young or new designers are

struggling to find manufacturers who have the skills and facilities to make their

product. The high-end designer fashion industry (which includes both designers andmanufacturers), is small and specialist. As a result, information tends to be

shared in a very informal way, often by word-of-mouth. In fact, some designers are

reluctant to share their 'good' manufacturers for fear that it might affect their own

production. This means that it can be

hard to get the right names and contacts for manufacturers unless you are already

established. Designers are often forced to draw upon

their own informal networks as there is no reliable source of information.

Part of the problem is that manufacturers don't generally devote time to marketing

themselves, due to lack of time, low levels of IT skills and a lack of available finance.

Together, these factors make it difficult for emerging designers to find manufacturers,

except through referrals.[4]

All the business activities should try to operate efficiently. However, this is

particularly important for a growing business. In any market, a business needs to be atleast as efficient as its main competitors in order to be able to compete and survive inthe long-term. A more efficient business will produce lower cost goods thancompetitors and may generate more profit possibly at lower prices Increasingefficiency will also boost the capacity of a business, assuming there is no change in thenumber of inputs employed. The capacity of a firm refers to how much a business canproduce during a specific period of time.[5]
http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-3http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-3http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-3http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-4http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-4http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-5http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-5http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-5http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-5http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-4http://www.answers.com/topic/deployment-flowchart#cite_note-3


17/73

17

ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN PRE-PRODUCTION

Today's garment merchandisers have to move with frequent changes in demand and thedeveloping technologies utilized in manufacturing and production. To find out customer

requirements, they regularly visit retail outlets, and come up with latest updates from

frontline staff. In order to keep an eye on developments in sourcing, site visits are made

every week to mainland factories to meet suppliers and study production. In garment

merchandising, there is no specific rule, so its important to be able to think on one's feet.

The main procedures of merchandisers are as followed:

1)Understanding Sample Order

Merchandiser has to understand the buyers requirementsafter receiving specification in

the sample order. In many cases, there are modifications pertaining to the specifications

in the order to dispatch on time and the right quality. He has to talk with the in-house

veterans on the execution problems of sample orders, as the right information is required

in decision making.

2)Managing order route card and production timetable

Merchandiser has to manage every single production schedule and order route card that

helps to follow-up the execution in the planned way. It is expected to be acknowledged of

the various descriptions like: design, no. of modules, no. of operators, how many

processes, and date of dispatch, quantity, output capacity, and deadlines in the schedules.

The sub-ordinates are normally assigned to follow-up with execution of the plan.

Merchandiser plans the activities depending on the essentials or non-essentials, and top

priority are given to the most essential tasks. This is customary that the essential activities

are handled personally or with the support of junior merchandisers/sub-ordinates. In a

daily schedule, merchandiser has to carry-out and categorize which is the most significant

and urgent task. The activity that has to be focused with full attention to sweep-off non-

essential activities and have to be to be corrected by prioritizing to meet the deadlines.


18/73


19/73

19

6)Communicating with associated people and buyer

It is essential to communicate with the buyers regarding the order. It is expected to give

some time to the buyer to read the sent messages. Merchandiser should go through the

messages received from the buyer and reply on time. In many cases, merchandisers have

to provide order status to the buyers. Also, merchandiser has to communicate with the

people that are in-house, vendors, contractors and job-workers.

Only through the right communication can one meet deadline for the concerned orders.

Apart from the above mention procedures, merchandiser has to assign subordinates to

help him in the order execution, and direct the procedures. He has to revise his knowledge

from time-to-time to know current market trends. To record preferences for all the

planned activities, use daily or time log systems. The Merchandiser should find out exactreasons for time consumption. It is necessary to keep record of time value and keeping it

safe, as it is going to be shared with concerned parties/buyers. It is certain that

merchandising jobs need huge time planning.

In Apparel sector there are 2 types of Merchandise, One is Woven merchandise ( Such as

Shirt , Pant , Blouse etc ) & the other one is Knit merchandise ( Circular Knit :- Tee shirt ,

Polo shirt ,Fashion knit like Sweater Etc ) . For quoting a price, merchandiser must

calculate fabric consumption first, because fabric price cover more than 60 % of that

quoted Price.

As a Merchandiser, for any type of Garments Consumption calculation, first we have to

know what type of garments we are going to make. For that, we need to know the specific

parts name & the measurement of that particular garments parts. Measurement may be in

inch or in centimeter (Measurement in Inch for American order & Centimeter for

European order). For accurate measurement we need to make a Paper pattern or CAD

pattern first.

We all know every part of garments have its length & width measurement. Basically on

woven garments, we calculate the consumption in Yard/ Doz (2.54 Cm= 1 inch & 36 inch

= 1 Yds,). In that case we also need to know the Width of that particular fabric which we

are going to use. Now we will calculate each of the separate part based on this Length &

Width to have the total consumption, for this we can use Separate part formula as

below:-

(LENGTH X WIDTH) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width (suitable sewing

allowance with each length & width for each application is also to be considered).


20/73

20

After calculating the consumption of all the part this way, we have to add all that

separate parts consumption tighter ,then we add the wastage percentage based on the

fabric nature which we are going to use for that particular garments.

We can also workout the consumption of a bottom item by using the below Solid

formula for calculate consumption"

Solid formula for calculate required Fabric consumption / Doz :-

(Total LENGTH X Total WIDTH ) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width X36inch = (Total + 5 % Wastage) X 12 Pcs= Result in ..Yds / Doz .


21/73

21

Fabric/ trims management : TNA

+

+

IN STORE

DISTRIBUTION

CENTRE DC

(AC )AT

CONSOLIDATOR

(SEA OR AIR)

GARMENT BULK

X - FACTORY

PACKING FINISH

PACKING START

SEWING ENDS

FINISHING ENDS

FINISHING STARTS


22/73

22

CUTTING ENDS

CUTTINGSTARTS

FABRIC TRIMS

INHOUSE

FABRIC TRIMS

X- MILL

MILL STARTSDYEING FABRIC

FABRIC GREIGE

GO AHEAD

PROTO

SAMPLE

LAB DIPAPPROVALS

FIT APPROVAL


23/73

23

Chapter 2: Product development


24/73

24

Content of consecution of entire apparel PD to production and teams

involved

Event Clustered acts/Chief

actors

Brief act illustrations

Trend research Setting the base forPD process throughtrend research/ Trendresearcher

-Collection of trendinformation through idea tripand shopping frominternational market, shoppingfrom local market, fashion

publication , websites andfabric fairs.-Analysis of collected trendforecasts.-Setting seasonal theme andpreliminary planning forproduct range

Productdevelopment

Anticipation throughtesting ideas anddevelopingprototypes/

Product developers(Designer , productmanager, patternmaker, finishingexpert)

-Anticipation of product rangeand setting the base range.-Fabric selection developedfabrics from the suppliers.

based on the idea collectedfrom fabric fairs andassortment of newly developedfabrics from the suppliers.Pattern selection from thepattern bank and developmentof new pattern. Test for fabricshrinkage and effect on theproduct.- Select product colour, shade,detailing like embroidery,

labels, stitching and otherdetails.- Development 1st proto andcorrective 2nd or 3rd proto asper necessity. Salesmansamples

Actual productrange

Setting the productrange/Sales team

-Confirm the final productrange and development of


25/73

25

(product manager,sales representative)

salesman samples.-Sales meeting along with theproduct range catalogue andproduct price.-Sales forecasting andpotentiality of sales.-Transfer product developmentknowledge to the productionteam and check formanufacturability.


26/73

26

Fabric development:

Pd cycle 1

Suppliers responsibility during product development:

Fabric suppliers responsibilities during product development: Accept charges for sample yardage as part of the cost of doing business. Assume liability for failed garment test attributed to fabric problems. Assume liability for latent fabric defects. Review fabrication alternatives and pricing with Sourcing. After fabric and order commitment dates have been determined, confirm in

writing: price, sample yardage ship date and bulk ship date to Sourcing.


27/73

27

Confirm receipt of lab dips, strike-offs, handlooms and sample yardage requestsvia email to Sourcing within 24 hours of receipt.

Produce sample yardage and ship to specified location (Overseas Office/ garmentmanufacturer). If sample yardage will be late, the fabric supplier must notify theappropriate Sourcing Manager immediately in writing.

The delivery of lab dips is expected in 7-10 days, and sample yardage in 2-4weeks.

The Quality Approval Swatch is then passed on to the Sourcing Manager. The R&D testing of fabric is requested. The Fabric Merchandiser forwards the

testing report to the fabric supplier.

The fabric supplier also provides proposed care instructions.

Fabric trend process:

Fabric Director works with Trend Services in November for Spring and May forFall.

Fabric Director meets with Trend Directors to ensure alignment. Color/Fabric/Trend Directors: Initial Concept meeting to present early trend

direction to Design Directors and Product Development Teams.

Color/Fabric/Trend work sessions with each brand. Fabric Director gathers market intelligence from fabric suppliers. Fabric Director conducts video conference to convey trend direction to Fabric

Merchandisers and fabric suppliers .

Fabric Director meets with Sourcing to review development fabrics and countriesthat will be used to develop.

Fabric Director: Attend trade shows (sample any new directional fabric ideas);also travel Europe for fashion during Premiere Vision.

Fabric development process:

Color palette is finalised Develop Fabric Menu. Designers select qualities to be sampled and prepare Product Packages to be given

to Sourcing.

Sourcing: Begins sending original fabrics for development to overseasoffices/fabric suppliers.

Handloom/Sample Yardage is requested.


28/73

28

Fashion Fabric Fair or Mill Week Sourcing will negotiate fabric price and nominate the garment manufacturer. Garment manufacturer will contact fabric supplier.

Mill evaluation:

A mill evaluation may be required. The request for evaluation will be made at thediscretion of buyer. The mill will be informed. If required, the evaluation will beconducted by the Sourcing / Quality department. This evaluation will review all aspectsof the mills ability to consistently produce high quality product based on formalized

quality programs.The mill evaluation includes the following:

1. Yarn Manufacturing

If the mill is vertical and produces yarn, a critical review of all quality programs toproduce a consistent yarn is conducted. Key areas of evaluation include testing of rawmaterials, blending and spinning. Color control should be completed at this time to verifyyarn properties.

2. Purchased Yarn

Does the mill check size and consistency of every shipment of yarn? Is uniformitychecked? Are waxes or lubricants controlled?

3. Knitting / Weaving

Review of all procedures to ensure accuracy of the fabric being produced

4. Greige goods inspection

Review of procedures to ensure accuracy of statistical controls, point systems and

proper records.

5. Dyeing / Finishing

It involves a thorough review of dyeing techniques, methods and procedural controls ofthe dyeing department. Written procedures and records are reviewed along with colorcontrols such as spectrophotometers, proper lighting and operator color vision testing.


29/73

29

6. Final Inspection

Review of the mills ability to ship consistently high quality piece goods and maintainrecords to be used for continuous improvement.

7. Lab Testing of Finished Goods

Review of all lab tests and procedures as outlined in the Lab Certification program listedin this manual. Recommendations are given to the management of the mill for correctiveaction. A mill may request a re-evaluation by providing an action plan to the Evaluatorwhichdescribes the improvements to be made and gives dates/timetable for improvements.

Identification of fabric defect:

Often Inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments. Theultimate solution, of course, is to provide actual examples or photographs of both majorand minor defects. This section provides a list of defects and explanations and simplifiesthe language and the judgments used in making visual fabric evaluations. The QualityControl Manager can provide this list to inspectors as a practical tool for achievinguniform inspection decisions.

Major and minor defects:

Major defects: A defect if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item tobe a second.

Minor defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be tremed a second eitherbecause of severity or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting it isnecessary to rate questionable defects as major since the inspector wont know where thedefect would occur on them.

Woven fabric defects:

Burl mark: When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, It is removed byburling tool. This will usually leave an open place in the fabric.


30/73


31/73

31

Warp slub as observed in #307049(color :latte) R.no-30162

Knot as observed in #307049(color :latte) R.no-30162


32/73

32

Crease mark as observed in #307049 (color: incense khaki)

Smash: caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.

Soiling filling or end: Dirty , oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or onpackagedyed yarn.

Spot mark: When the loom is stopped , the yarn elongates under tension ; Whenloom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.

Color evaluation procedure :

Solid Bulk Lab Dip Request

All Ann Taylor Solid Lab Dips are requested by an Ann Taylor representative. Eachrequest is processed on an Ann Taylor Bulk Lab Dip request form. This form contains allthe pertinent information needed by the Supplier in order to process the request.The following information must be included on each request form: Ann Taylor Requestor Ann Taylor Contact Fabric/Yarn quality

Season Division/Department Final approval date Color name Ann Taylor 4 digit color number 3 x 3 for all request made from a corporate standard


33/73

33

Solid Bulk Lab Dip Submittal

All Suppliers are required to follow the procedures when submitting bulk lab dips forAnn Taylor. All lab dips are to be attached to the Ann Taylor Lab Dip Submit form . Allof the information provided on the Ann Taylor Request form must be included on theAnn Taylor Lab Dip Submit form in addition to the following:

Supplier contact Supplier submit date Supplier lab dip number

All bulk lab dips are to be submitted as follows:

One color per submission No more than three variations of each color per submission

The lab dip submits should be prescreened by the mill All swatches must be a minimum of 2 x 2 in size. Ann Taylor has Colorists in certain overseas offices to prescreen all submits

before sending them to the Ann Taylor Home Office in New York for finalapproval by the NY Colorist.

Viewing Conditions and Procedures

All lab dips must be reviewed in a MacBeth light box & Procedures). Ann Taylor requires all of its light boxes to be calibrated by a certified MacBeth

engineer once a year.

Garment wash approval process:

This process encompasses denim, non denim and pigment programs. Directsuppliers/mills submit submission to appropriate triburg buying office merchandiser ,

who passes on the submission to the designer or product development manager . The

designer provides any standard and instruction on what needs to be achieved to establish

the wash standard. The adopted quality swatch is submitted for hand feel and general

appearance approval ; suppliers must submit before wash and after wash swatches for

comparison purposes. Washing details must be specified by the supplier.


34/73

34

Denim programs require to submit a light , medium and dark swatch for approval to

represent the range of shade band of the production. All production must fall within this

approved band.

Non denim and pigment programs require the supplier to submit lab dips before wash and

after wash. Lab dips should be washed in the same condition as the future production.The solid color approval form and lab dips are to be used , indicating clearly that it is a

garment wash program in the product description field of the approval form. Lab dips will

be submitted to the appropriate buying house merchandiser who can pass the lab dips on

the appropriate color team to match to the indicated standard.


35/73

35

Chapter 3 : Delay analysis


36/73

36

Delay analysis:

Reason of

delay

Factors responsible Suggested measure Example

Lab dip Not matching thedesired shade;Communicationlapses

Proper suppliertraining

Unmatched labdips as per thegiven instructions(flare occurrence)

Approvaldelays

Rejections,Incomplete &improper submission

Usage of correctcomposition offabric and colors

Rejection ofsample yardageor bulk

Quality

problems

Priorities for

selected suppliers

Nip impression of

padding mangle isto be checked

Gsm variation,

Seam puckering,csv

Changes inspecification

Fit sample approvedwith remarks

Changes should bebrought in Preproduction sample

Revision intechpacks


37/73

37

Fish bone diagram:

1) Lab dips

sl. No. reasonno. ofcases

as apercentage

1 man 6 100

2 machine 3 50

3 material 2 33.33

4 method 1 16.66

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

man machine material method

Series1


38/73

38

These delays result from problems related to the prints and colors not matching the specified

standards and merchandise not getting the desired hand feel.

Print and color related problems: - These problems arise when the supplier is not able to achieve

specified prints and colors. The supplier gets the Lap dips and strike offs approved but are

somehow unable to get the same quality in bulk.


39/73

39

2) Approval delays:

sl.No. reason

no. ofcases

as apercentage

1 man 3 27.27

2 machine 4 36.363 method 2 18.18

4 material 2 18.18

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

man machine method material

Series1


40/73

40

The second biggest problem which is not allowing the various departments to plan and perform

according to their capacities is the problem of approvals i.e. at various stages the departments

especially embroidery, printing, knitting and dyeing have to wait for the various approvals.

Although there is no permanent solution to this problem we can only work to minimize the loss

due to this problem.


41/73


42/73

42

If the pickup after the Padding mangle is not same throughout the width of the fabric then thedifference in depth within the width of the fabric is observed. Due to which centre to selvedgevariation is observed. The ways to keep a check on csv is to see that the pick up % in left, middle& right position of the fabric after the padding mangle and the nip impression of the paddingmangle is to be checked periodically.


43/73

43

4) Changes in specification:

sl.no. reasonno. ofcases

as apercentage

1 man 2 28.57

2 machine 0 0

3 method 3 42.85

4 material 2 28.57

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

man machine method material

Series1


44/73

44

It was found that primarily there was change in specifications because there was no standardsbeing set up for the fit and specification of even basic styles like Ann taylor loft casual bottoms

and tops.

There are times when the merchandisers sent the sample on old specification instead of getting

new specifications and hence again resubmission happens. Sometimes changed specification are

not being sent and only comments are sent by the merchandisers and hence they are unable to

understand and develop sample according to new specification. So again in this condition

resubmission of sample is required is required.

These specification changes are the major contributor to the delay in pre-production of particularstyle example location of logos and pocket positions etc.


45/73

45

Root Cause Identification

In each of the areas below, indicate any factors that contributed to the delay in treatment:

Contributing

Factors

If YES, what contributed to

this factor being an issue?

Is this a

root cause

of the

event?

If YES, is

an action

plan

indicated?

YES NO YES NO YES NO

Shade not matching

Poor Supplier training for

building lab dips

Inappropriate

submissions.

Flare occurence

Priorities for

selected suppliers

Fabric pickup is not same after

padding mangle

(color distribution is not same)

Fit sample approved

with remarks

Minor changes to be brought in

later sampling stages


46/73


47/73

47

Chapter 4: Lead Time Analysis


48/73

48

Lead Time Analysis:

Lead time and timely deliveries

Meeting the delivery on time is the most important factor in today market to have good

reputation and existence with good market share in this competitive world. To keep abreast

with the dynamic market conditions these days one need to be able to get more of the

fastest selling merchandise on sale during season whilst its appeal lasts and

correspondingly eliminate lines which are not popular and become drain on resources. The

main areas of concern are

Merchandise development Communication System compatibility Long delivery time

Export market is such where there is lot of innovation in styles and particularly fashion

market which very dynamic and shorter run of production are increasing day by day.

What make situation more difficult is the interdependence of the activities and it is not at

all surprising that the time taken to get goods from concept to market place is often

longer than the selling season itself.

The maximum amount of time spend is in preproduction activities.

These activities include the process of procuring yarn and fabric, getting the samples

made and getting them approved by the buyers. The actual garmenting process does not


49/73


50/73

50

Durations in production and pre production

sl.no Style number total leadtime

pre productionduration(1)

productionduaration(2)

% time in preproduction

1 307982-sum 130 76 54 58.5

2 303123-spr 174 102 72 58.623 297032-spr 129 87 42 67.44

4 301693-spr 162 91 71 56.17

5 298509-spr 174 102 72 58.72

6 313876-fall 148 79 69 53.37

7 308947-fall 92 57 35 61.95

8 307068-fall 114 58 56 50.87

9 303123-fall 140 100 40 71.42

10 311698-prefall

90 37 53 41.11

11 314628-hol 151 101 50 66.88

12 307753-fall 119 74 45 62.18

13 307756-fall 140 95 45 67.85

14 314239-fall 162 117 45 72.22

15 308220-fall 111 66 45 59.45

Average 82.8 52.93 60.45


51/73

51

61%

39%

percentage time spent in 1 & 2

1

2

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Series2

Series1


52/73

52

Planned vs Actual lead time

sl No. style no. Actual lead time

Planned lead

time Difference

13079282-sum 153 130 23

2 303123-spr 174 150 24

3 297032-spr 129 119 10

4 301693-spr 162 151 11

5 298509-spr 174 165 9

6 313876-fall 148 136 12

7 308947-fall 109 92 17

8 307068-fall 100 114 149 303123-fall 140 125 15

10311698-

prefall 90 90 0

11 314628-hol 151 146 5

12 307753-fall 150 119 31

13 307756-fall 118 140 22

14 314239-fall 162 156 6

15 308220-fall 109 111 2

137.9333333 129.6 201

Interpretation: As it can be seen that mean actual lead time is higher than mean planned lead

time, so it can be said that there is significant difference between the planned and the actual

lead time.

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Series1

Series2


53/73

53

Reducing lead time in the production stage of style # 307753

Operation bulletin of style #307753

sl. No. Operation Machine Sam Remarks

CUTTING SECTION

1 Block cutting Straight knife

2 Fusing at Fusing m/c

3 Fusing panel recut Band knife

4 Fix cutting rest all panel Straight knife

5 Notch should be as per the pattern Table

6 Cutting check as per pattern Table

7 Issue cutting Table

SEWING SECTION

NECK FACING

1 Side seam of neck facing A 0.6 COMBINE 1 , 3

2 Side joint neck facing C 0.48 COMBINE 2 , 7

3 Serge neck facing A 0.58 COMBINE 1 , 3

4 Hem neck facing C 0.82 COMBINE 4 , 5 , 9

5 Mark the neck facing 0.62

SLEEVE


54/73

54

6 Join the sides of sleeve C 0.52

7 o/l sides of sleeve A 0.38 COMBINE 2 , 7

8 Serge the sleeve open A 0.88

9 Press the sleeve open for blind hem 0.88 COMBINE 4 , 5 , 9

10 Hem at sleeve opening B 1.38

UPPER BODY

11 Mark the front for lace attatch 0.62

12 Attatch lace at front body C 0.62 SHARE 12 , 15

13 Finish lace attatch at front body C 0.68

14 Attatch the front yoke to upper body C 0.72 COMBINE 14 , 17

15 O/l the front yoke joint A 0.62 SHARE 12 , 15

16 Attatch back yoke D 0.8817 O/l at back yoke A 0.68 COMBINE 14 , 17

18 Match front upper body to back upper body 0.52

19 Serge at shoulder A 0.82

20 Shoulder attatch C 0.58

Match the neck facing 0.52

21 Attatch neck facing C 1.12

22 Back stitch at neck facing attatch C 0.92

23 Sew side seam C 0.86

24 O/l at side seam attatch A 0.62

25 Match sleeve to upper body 0.52

26 Attatch sleeve C 1.25

27 O/l at sleeve attatch A 0.78 SHARE 27 , 33

28 Sew gather at waist line D 0.88

29 Side joint waist band C 0.76

30 Crease the waist band and mark 0.92

31 Attatch waist band C 1.28

SHELL SKIRT

33 Sew back darts D 0.85 SHARE 27 , 33

34 Sew pleat at front waist line D 0.88 SHARE 34 , 41

35 Serge at centre back A 0.78

36 Attatch centre back C 0.68 SHARE 36 , 39

37 Bottom serge A 0.78

38 Sew the side seam C 0.88

39 O/l at side seam A 0.68 SHARE 36 , 39

40 Press the bottom hem 0.92

41 Bottom hem B 1.32 SHARE 34 , 41

ASSEMBLY


55/73

55

42 Match upper body to lower body 0.52

43 Attatch upper body and lower body C 1.28 COMBINE 43,51

44 Finish waist band with crack stitch C 1.78 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47

45 Serge at zip open A 0.78

46 Attatch zip at centre back C 1.28 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47

47 Finish zipper end and top C 0.78 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47

48 Top stitch at zipper attatch C 1.02 COMBINE 49 , 48

49 Tack zipper at bottom C 0.32 COMBINE 48 , 49

50 Make and attatch main label at neck facing C 0.85

51 W/c lable attatch C 0.45 COMBINE 43,51

FINISHING

Marking for button attatch and button hole CButton watch C

Button hole making C 1.33

Spotting (if reqd) C 3.02

Thread cutting C 0.84

General checking C 1.14

Ironing D 0.42

Measurement checking D

Folding and packing D

MACHINE SUMMARY

Type of m/c NO.s

3 thread overlock(A) 8

Blind hem chain(B) 2

SNLS 17

SNLS - UBT(D) 6

TOTAL 33


56/73

56

Observations acquired after combining several operations:

Sl.

No. Operations combined

total

sam

observed

value1 Side seam of neck facing

1.18 0.7743 Serge neck facing

Total sam when operations are performed individually= 1.18

Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.774

Savings = 0.406

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

total sam observed value

Series1

Series2


57/73

57

Sl.


Total

sam

Observed

value4 Hem neck facing

2.32 1.704

5 Mark the neck facing

9 Press the sleeve open for blind hem

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 2.32


Savings = 0.616

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5


Series1

Series2


58/73


59/73

59

Sl.


Total

sam

Observed

value12 Attatch lace at front body

1.24 0.80615 O/l the front yoke joint



Savings = 0.434

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4


Series1

Series2


60/73

60

Sl.No. Operations combined

Totalsam

Observedvalue

14 Attatch the front yoke to upper body

1.4 0.92417 O/l at back yoke



Savings = 0.476

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6


Series1

Series2


61/73

61

Sl.


Total

sam

Observed

value27 O/l at sleeve attatch

1.63 1.03533 Sew back darts



Savings = 0.595

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8


Series1

Series2


62/73

62

Sl.


Total

sam

Observed

value34 Sew pleat at front waist line

2.2 1.27641 bottom hem



Savings = 0.924

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5


Series1

Series2


63/73

63

Sl.


Total

sam

Observed

value36 Attatch centre back

1.36 0.88439 O/l at side seam



Savings = 0.476

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6


Series1

Series2


64/73

64

Sl.


Total

sam

Observed

value44 Finish waist band with crack stitch

3.84 3.294

46 Attatch zip at centre back

47 Finish zipper end and top



Savings = 0.546

3

3.1

3.2

3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9


Series1

Series2


65/73

65

Sl.


Total

Sam

Observed

value48 Top stitch at zipper attatch

1.34 1.11649 Tack zipper at bottom



Savings = 0.224

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6


Series1

Series2


66/73

66

Sl.


Total

sam

Observed

value51 W/c lable attatch

1.73 1.41543 Attatch upper body and lower body



Savings = 0.315

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

2


Series1

Series2


67/73

67

Calculations:

Total sam without any combination or sharing = 41.14

Observed value after combining several operations together = 36.482

Total savings = 4.658

Total savings in terms of percentage = 11.32%


68/73

68

Conclusions :

A penny saved is a penny earned. The delay reduction and Control measures suggested herein

when implemented will result in limiting the huge amount of money that supplier pays

against delayed orders and will also increase On time delivery rate thus meeting the TNA and

In store dates. The Senior Merchandisers, Merchandiser and Product and Quality team were

asked to categorize the cause of delays into controllable and un-controllable delays

The actual lead time is higher than the planned lead time, so it can be said that there is

significant difference between the planned and the actual lead time which could be reduced if

the operators are trained properly as well as the vendors are instructed correctly. Everyone

has to understand their responsibility so that the job is done properly and timely.

Lead time reduction was seen possible in the pre production and production stages by

implementing several methods of combining , sharing and eliminating several activities

which brought control the lead time upto 11 % in the production of style no. #307753

Whereas after following the suggested measures based on the root cause analysis the

reduction of delays in some pre production activities were summed as :

Delay area Duration Duration after

following

measures

Percentage

reduction

Lab dips 7 days 4 days 40

Approval(sy) 15 days 10-12 days 26

Quality 20- 23 days 15-16 days 22


69/73

69

Results:

After combination of some operations in the operation bulletin the lead time wasreduced to 11 %.

time taken (in

minutes) difference

total sam 41.14

4.658

observed

value 36.48

After following the suggested measure from the improvement action plan the delaysoccurring in the approval of lab dips , sample yardage and quality issue wascontrolled to 40 % , 26% and 22% respectively.

Delay area Percentage reduction

Lab dips 40

Approval(sy) 26

Quality 22


70/73

70

Improvement Action Plan

Pre-production stage:

Strategies for

Improvement Measure(s) of Effectiveness Responsible Person(s)

Action item #1: Training seminars for workers Fabric supplier

Action item #2:Usage of correct composition of

fabric and colors

Fabric supplier

Action item #3:

Nip impression of padding mangle

is to be checked Dyeing mill

Action item #4:Changes should be brought in Pre

production sample Vendor


71/73

71

Limitations and scope for further study

A project when completes lays the foundation for another Research study, for nothingis ever perfect. The scope and limit of the project did not permit the implementation

of each suggested measure.

Many times it was very difficult to conduct in depth interviews since the departmentmerchandisers didnt have much time to devote.

Raw data collected was for two months available at Triburg centre of learning ,so allsuggestions and recommendations are applicable only to the said company.

Due to less exposure of the vendors side it allowed only a few days in a week to seekany kind of data collection.


72/73

72

REFERENCES :

1) http://www.equal-works.com/resources/contentfiles/307.pdf

2) http://www.nesta.org.uk/publications/toolkits/assets/features/case_study_trims_-_choice_procurement_and_timely_delivery

3) http://www.equal-works.com

A new market opportunity Johanna Bergvall-Forsberg

William Lee Innovation Centre

University of Manchester

4) http://www.nesta.org.uk/publications/toolkits/assets/features/case_study_-_finding_a_production_unitmanufacturer

5) http://www.tutor2u.net/business/gcse/production_efficiency_improvements.html.

6) Overview of the Indian garment industry By : M. K. Panthaki

7) http://www.docstoc.com/docs/87615939/Fabric-and-Garment-

Performance-Testing.

8)http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-production-

processes-in-garment-html.
http://www.equal-works.com/resources/contentfiles/307.pdfhttp://www.equal-works.com/http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-production-http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-production-http://www.equal-works.com/http://www.equal-works.com/resources/contentfiles/307.pdf


73/73

Annexures

Documents

end trm doc