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I S S U E 2B Y
E S S E N T I A L I S T
T U R I N , L O S A N G E L E S , B A S Q U E C O U N T R Y , S I N G A P O R E
C O A S T A L B E A U T Y
S C O T L A N D , S A N S E B A S T I Á N
L O N D O N
J O A N N E W E I R
The Destinations
On Our Radar
Checking In / Dining Out
Capital City
The Globalite Interview
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1 0“I am always inspired by the outdoor markets,
the restaurants and what we learn from the people we meet along the way.”
J O A N N E W E I R
C O A S T A L C U R R E N C YThree of our favorite coastlines revealed.
C O A S T A L B E A U T Y
Beach hopping and swimming with turtles in CuraçaoT H E C A R I B B E A N
By Mayssam Samaha
Curaçao, located about 60-km off the coast of Venezuela in the southernmost part of the Caribbean, is the largest of ABC chain of islands that also includes Aruba and Bonaire. All three islands are constituent countries of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Curaçao’s colorful capital Willemstad is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with over 700 protected buildings. The city is famous for its Dutch Colonial architecture characterized by gabled roofs with curved eaves, candy-colored walls, red-tiled roofs and narrow façades. It has all the charm of Amsterdam with the added bonus of an average year-round temperature of 28ºC. The Dutch influence is always present, from Willemstad’s stunning architecture to the kroketten served in restaurants and all the way through to the local Papiamentu language, a mixture of Dutch, English and Spanish.
Curaçao has many assets, least of which is its stunning coast. While the east coast of the island is rugged, wild and comprised of jagged cliffs, its west coast is replete with gorgeous coves crowned with ravishing fine sand beaches kissed by shimmering turquoise water. These
It’s summer! For many, this means lots of time
perched on sandy (or rocky) shores basking in
the beauty of the seaside, and so for our summer
edition we are looking closely at three of our favorite
coastlines: California, Cornwall, and Curaçao. While
the California Coast remains legendary thanks in
part to the scenic Highway 1 drive, Cornwall has a
discreet beauty that has drawn artists and surfers to
its shores for over a century, and Curaçao, which has
kept a lower-profile among other Caribbean islands,
is emerging as one of the more intriguing places for
serious beach hopping and swimming with turtles.
beaches are all fairly close to one another, which makes it easy to spend a day (or more) beach hopping and picking a perfect spot to call your own for a few hours.
Most of Curaçao’s nicer beaches are located north of Willemstad with a few exceptions. Southeast of the capital is Mambo Beach, one of the island’s most popular beaches. The Mambo strip combines restaurants, shopping and entertainment with a beautiful stretch of beach. It’s Curaçao’s most dynamic and animated waterfront and reminiscent of Miami’s South Beach.
A little further south is Tugboat Beach, a calmer expanse of sand with a snack shack attached and a charming hippie-vibe. Tugboat Beach is famous for the shipwreck that has been taken over by a rich marine life and has become a snorkelling and diving destination.
Driving northwest from Willemstad, you’ll encounter a dozen or so lovely coves. Any one of them would make a fine spot to spend the day. Most of these beaches are equipped with facilities, including food, bathrooms and a dive center. A few do stand out with unique features that make them even more special. Playa Porto Mari has a rehabilitated double reef that’s a pleasure to snorkel around. It also counts wild pigs among its beach goers. Playa Jeremi is a wild stretch of sand
with no facilities whatsoever, except for a few umbrellas. This makes it one of the most relaxing beaches on the coast. Playa Lagun is a beautiful deep cove surrounded by rocky cliffs. Colorful fishing boats are scattered on the small beach, which lends so much charm to this calm cove.
The highlight of beach hopping in Curaçao is making it to Playa Piskado, towards the island’s most northwestern tip. Playa Piskado is a fishing port and doesn’t qualify as Curaçao’s prettiest stretch of white sand. It might even look ordinary at first glance but it’s far from that. It’s the only beach on the island where you are guaranteed to see and swim with sea turtles attracted by scraps of fish and octopus discarded in the water by the fishermen cleaning their catch. Playa Piskado might be a bit more crowded than other beaches, with many tourists heading there to swim with the turtles. If you’re patient enough, you can wait for the crowd to thin out before diving in. Otherwise, look for the straggler turtle. There are usually one or two independent beings doing their own thing and swimming away from their peers. Join them in their peaceful marine ballet and observe as their flippers cut through the waters like bird’s wings while they effortlessly glide through the crystalline waters. It’s the best kind of R&R anyone could hope for while on vacation and will surely be the highlight of your trip to Curaçao.
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In the Footsteps of ArtistsC O R N W A L L , U K
By Giselle Whiteaker
Cornwall––or Kernow, as it’s known in Cornish––was once reliant on mining, fishing and farming. Following in the footsteps of artists who have been drawn to its rugged shores since the early 19th century, this pretty English county is now a center of creativity. Fresh seafood, breathtaking beaches, quaint fishing villages, and lush sub-tropical gardens are just some of the peninsula’s appeal. A hint of sunshine finds British people flocking to the beaches. In Cornwall, they are spoiled for choice.
The westernmost county is defined by its magnificent coastline, with over 300 miles of dunes, cliffs, coves and harbors. The coastal walks here are sublime, with the South West Coast Path stretching some 630 miles and it’s a mecca for surfers, who head to popular Newquay or the breaks elsewhere on Cornwall’s 200-odd beaches.
Perched on the Atlantic Coast, the tiny fishing village of Port Isaac is a picture-perfect introduction to Cornwall. Narrow streets lined with whitewashed cottages wend through the village, heading to the harbor where local fishermen land their daily catch. Follow the cliff-top path to Port Gaverne less than two miles away, browse the galleries in the village, or catch the Fisherman’s Friends, a shanty group, singing in the harbor on summer evenings.
A half hour’s drive away is Padstow, where celebrity chefs like Paul Ainsworth and Rick Stein have set up shop. As well as being a foodie favorite, it’s a charming working fishing port. Surrounded by seven golden beaches, it’s also the start and end point for the Camel Cycle Trail, a disused railway line turned cycle path that runs between Wenfordbridge, Bodmin, Wadebridge and Padstow.
Another hour along the peninsula is the quintessential British seaside town of St. Ives. It should be compulsory to consume a cream tea here; the scones
slathered with jam and clotted Cornish cream. This tiny town with big views is the epicenter of arts, with the Tate St Ives gallery overlooking the ocean and the Barbara Hepworth Gallery celebrating the life and works of the sculptor in the gardens and studios in which she created much of her work. St. Ives in season is bustling, so consider staying at nearby Carbis Bay for a more peaceful setting.
More outdoor art can be found at Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens, in a sheltered valley overlooking St Michael’s Mount. Large-scale exotic and sub-tropical planting within the gardens provides the backdrop for an evolving program of contemporary artwork. Should the views inspire, St Michael’s Mount is a mere half hour’s drive away. Separated from the town of Marazion by the sea, the castle-topped island is a brief stroll over the causeway or a boat ride, depending on the tide.
Yet another hour along the coast, atop a cliff, is the Minack Theatre, a unique open-air amphitheater that puts on a full program of drama, musicals and opera every summer. Even without the acting, the venue is spectacular, offering similar views to Land’s End, without the distraction of family-fun themed attractions.
Heading up the South Coast on the return journey, the Eden Project is one of Cornwall’s most well-known attractions. The iconic dome-shaped biomes nestled in a crater house the
largest rainforest in captivity, and a plethora of plants, exhibitions and artworks. After an afternoon here, the hilly, seaside village of Polperro is the ideal spot to replenish the soul. Tiny fisherman’s cottages cling to the hills, tumbling towards the harbor, its beauty belying its history as a smuggler village.
Just as Italy stands tiptoe to the south, Cornwall shakes its leg to the west, and like a ripe Italian wine, Cornwall is guaranteed to leave you wanting more.
“Fresh seafood, breathtaking beaches, quaint fishing villages, and lush sub-tropical gardens are just some of the peninsula’s appeal.”
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Driving California’s Highway 1 Discovery Route C A L I F O R N I A , U S A
By Fran Endicott Miller
California’s Highway 1 Discovery Route zigs and zags from Big Sur in the north to Santa Barbara in the south, its 101 miles meandering through wine country, along rugged coastline, and past expansive beaches. Remarkable for its beauty and the variety of its charming towns, Highway 1 is California’s road less travelled. Open space and little traffic reveal the low key, laid-back side of California long thought lost and gone forever. But it’s real, and it’s spectacular.
Jump-on the route at any point and find quaint hotels and restaurants, wine tasting rooms, bike paths, boutique shopping, farmer’s markets, whale watching, and cool California surf culture. Ten destinations provide a plethora of options: from north to south - Ragged Point, San Simeon, Cambria, Cayucos, Los Osos, Avila Beach, Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande Valley, Oceano, and Nipomo. To drive straight through takes about 4.5 hours. But give yourself a few days to fully absorb the boho California vibes. For an especially revitalizing retreat, make it a solo sojourn; there’s nothing quite as relaxing as marching to the beat of one’s own drummer.
Some highlights:
San Simeon is a Highway 1 must. Book a tour of Hearst Castle where the display of William Randolph Hearst’s immense wealth continues to stupefy and the coastal views astound. Travel by bus to the top of Hearst’s ‘Enchanted Hill’ and tour the main house with its world class art collection, opulent swimming pools, and lush gardens. Later, head south to quaint Cambria and explore its miles of beachfront boardwalk. Hit its mountain trails on horseback; Covells California Clydesdales provide spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. Then beeline to Main St. for the legendary Olallieberry pie at iconic Linn’s Restaurant.
Next stop, the historic beach town of Cayucos. Check-in at charming Cass House, a five room inn located in the former home of the small seaside community’s founder, lovingly restored by owner Traci Hozie. (Reserve room 4 for its large terrace overlooking the Pacific.) Traci and her sister Christa also own Brown Butter Cookie Company, one of Cayucos’ main attractions located just a few steps down the street. (Stop-in for samples.)
Continuing south, detour to Los Osos and Baywood Park, nestled along the south shore of Morro Bay; its National Estuary is one of the best preserved in California and is home to more than 250 bird species.
Carmel
Shingled houses and an abundance of art galleries give Carmel something of an old English town feel, even if the vibe here is very much putting on the ritz, California- style.Top-down convertibles cruise the length of Ocean Ave while pedestrians tend their perfectly groomed dogs on the immaculate sidewalks.
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Other highlights
Big Sur
Big Sur. The name alone is evocative. There’s something magical, mythical, about this 90-mile tract of Californian coast, a byword for a pristine, clean-aired medley of maritime landscapes; white- sand coves and craggy, precipitous cliffs that fall into the crashing Pacific from the soaring Santa Lucia mountains and dense Ventana wilderness beyond them. Big Sur has achieved iconic status not only forits spectacular natural beauty but for its cultural and spiritual identity. Although the completion of the highway in 1937 ensured it was no longer isolated (San Francisco is three hours to the north, Los Angeles five hours to the south), Big Sur still feels like a bohemian enclave, secluded from the real world.
Next destination: Avila Beach. This idyllic seaside enclave features not only surf and sand, but also lush greenery, a golf course, and an epic bike path, best explored via electric bike. Reach ultimate vantage points with ease via the exhilarating power boost. Afterward, soak your muscles at Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort where 23 private hot tubs dot the oak tree-canopied hillside, each bubbling with naturally heated mineral spring water.
Check-in at the oceanfront Avila Lighthouse Suites where spacious, beach-themed suites feature patios or balconies with ocean views. Here, you’re within walking distance of the quaint surf shops and restaurants lining Front Street, where splendid sunsets are served with California fresh seafood.
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Bavel, Los AngelesLocated in LA’s downtown arts district, Bavel is a Middle Eastern restaurant run by chefs, Ori Menashe and Genevive Gergis. The food is a reflection of their roots in Israeli, Moroccan, Turkish and Egyptian cultures, with flavors that are sensory and mouth-watering. The large, light-filled space was once a typical warehouse which has been transformed by opening it up and mixing traditional Middle Eastern design elements with bright, contemporary, Los Angeles style.
Villa Cerruti, Turin
Italian businessman, Francesco Federico Cerruti,
was a legendary collector of art and objects, most
of which were immaculately installed in his villa
just outside of Turin, Italy. After his passing in
2015 and with the help of the contemporary art
museum, Castello di Rivoli, the villa has been
beautifully restored and opened to the public.
A hidden trove of sumptuous objects, ceramics,
carpets, and paintings decorate this secret villa
that few ever visited even during his lifetime.
Chillida Leku, Basque CountryA lifelong dream of Basque sculptor, Eduardo Chillada, was to see his sculptures out in the landscape for people to walk around and enjoy. After many years of renovation, the Chillada Leku museum and sculpture park are now open. Located in the Zabalaga countryside outside of San Sebastian, the traditional country house and the vast green fields connect his art with his life and offers an in-depth look at this prominent artist.
Raffles, SingaporeWe are looking forward to the re-opening, expected in August, of this historic luxury hotel that first opened its doors in 1887. Home to the most famous cocktail, the Singapore Sling, the hotel’s Long Bar, will sit in its original space, replete with heavy wooden bar. The hotel has taken pains to retain its heritage and original character in design details, while stepping up to the plate for the 21st century traveler.
T U R I N · L O S A N G E L E S · B A S Q U E C O U N T R Y · S I N G A P O R EI S S U E 2 T H E B E L L H O PB Y
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©Zabalaga Leku. San Sebastián, VEGAP, 2019. Sucesión de Eduardo Chillida y Hauser & Wirth. Foto Mikel Chillida Photo: Jenny ZarinsPhoto: Dylan + Jenni
Guns, Golf, and a Gorgeous Playground at GleneaglesBy Mike MacEacheran
Often it is the places that are the hardest to get to in Scotland that are the most rewarding. Gleneagles is the glorious exception to this rule. It is almost as if it has been placed at the country’s mythic heart—an hour from Edinburgh or Glasgow, less that from Dundee and nearby Stirling. In less than 60-minutes, you’ll get memories that’ll last a lifetime and experience sights and sounds that’ll always bring you back to this exceptional place.
People have a habit of seeing Scotland as it is in postcards, all nostalgic, romantic and heathery. But in reality, away from the gorse and glens, it’s contemporary, modern and packed top-to-toe with swagger. This singular property in Perthshire, with 232 intimate bedrooms and 26 luxurious suites, manages to be both. A baronial countryside estate, opened nearly a century ago in 1924 by the former Caledonian Railway Company, Gleneagles has its own narrative, sidestepping the tartan twee of so many of its rivals to deliver a compendium of muddy boots experiences married with a zeitgeist-defining spa, a glam-as-Gatsby speakeasy and three exquisite restaurants, each more experimental than the last. The genial staff, dressed in
tweed, brogues and—in some cases—mighty fine Highland beards, add a flash of Brooklyn hipster, too.
The landscape—all undulating hills, grouse-inhabited moorlands and three championship golf courses—lends itself to this sort of dress code. One morning, rifles are half-cocked for deer stalking and game bird shooting, the next the horses are saddled for a trot around the estate, taking in views of Auchterarder’s Highlands-in-miniature hills. Perhaps the weather calls for a field craft lesson handling Labradors at the UK’s only gun dog school, or a 4WD safari at speed over gullies to god-knows-where. No: today you fancy 18-holes on the PGA Centenary Course (this is where the Ryder Cup was born, after all), followed by a champagne cream tea and soothe-and-soak in the spa’s labyrinth of steam rooms and gently fizzing pools. Later, over whisky-barrel smoked lobster at two Michelin Star wonder Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, the only doubt in your mind is whether to extend your stay.
The genius of Gleneagles is in how every encounter comes with a generous pinch of Scottish hospitality and humor, creating the sense that you’re not just a guest, but part of the estate’s extended family. When you finally leave, which you will, regrettably, the overriding impression is a place of subtle beauty and refined service. Your heart will be full to bursting, but that’s why you’ll one day be back.
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A Wine Lover’s Guide to San SebastiánBy Marti Buckley
San Sebastián is often hailed as a foodie’s paradise, but the truth is the wine pairings can be even more exciting than the pintxos. Nestled between the Rioja region and Basque txakoli vineyards, it’s a true destination for those looking to drink some of the world’s best reds and a unique fizzy white.
W H E R E T O W O R S H I P / T H E W I N E M E C C A From the outside, Rekondo looks like any other Basque farmhouse-turned-restaurant on the mountainside. Until, that is, you are handed their 250-page wine menu. What began as a private collection of a retired bullfighter grew and grew to include some of Spain’s best wines, rare wines from across the world, and incredible vintages (the sheer number of ’64 Riojas on the menu is enough to make you punchdrunk by proximity). Ask the sommelier Martín to let you pop down to the cellar, named one of Europe’s top five by Wall Street Journal.
W H E R E T O S H O P / B E S T W I N E S H O P It’s what is down deep that counts, and never has that been more true than in GOÑI ardoteka. Do not miss Nerea Goñi’s wine shop, a small ardoteka (vinoteca in Basque)
Wine has been a staple since Roman times in
northern Spain. Rioja, just an hour from San
Sebastián, has spent the last century positioning
itself as one of the world’s wine superpowers. The
Basques also have a unique local wine, txakoli,
which over recent decades has gone from rough
and tumble table wine to a respected bottle of wine,
usually white and often delicately carbonic. San
Sebastián may be a foodie mecca, but rest assured
it has more than its fair share of must-visit watering
holes.
on the fringes of San Sebastián’s old town. Upstairs the shelves hold all the best national Spanish wines, and tastings that take you across Spain’s wine regions by the glass are for hire. The jewels, however, are hidden downstairs, where there is a cave that holds specialty bottles and vintages, from a 1914 Tondonia to a 1982 Château Mouton Rothschild (yours for €4000)—and everything in between.
W H E R E T O T A S T E / T H E M O S T E X C I T I N G T A S T I N G I N T O W N Vega Sicilia, located on the edge of the Ribera del Duero region, has a reputation for making some of Spain’s (and the world’s) best wines. So cozy up to Mimo San Sebastián’s wooden tasting table in their cooking school under the Hotel María Cristina and taste not one but six bottles from this world-famous bodega. Led by sommelier Tito Lázaro, the Vega Sicilia Tasting gives big bang for your #winegoals buck.
W H E R E T O D R I N K & S N A C K / B E S T P A I R I N G S A N D S M A L L P L A T E S Can’t decide whether you’re shopping or snacking? The shelves of N. 06 are stocked with 200+ bottles that have one thing in common: they’re not easy to find anywhere else in town. Bottles curated by in-house sommelier Marcos Gomez spotted on a recent visit included Espadeiro, a wine with a 1,300 bottle production; and Gorrondona, a rare red txakoli. At the
tables in the back, you can enjoy your wine with a plate of cheese, anchovies or charcuterie, or sit down for a meal of sweetbreads or cauliflower steak. The wine-by-the-glass menu changes weekly.
W H I C H B O D E G A / T H E B O D E G A T O V I S I T The closest D.O. is Getariako Txakoliña, whose signature wine is the effervescent, slightly saline white wine known as txakoli. Head to the heartland and visit Bodega Txakoli Rezabal, whose owners Ander and Mireya gave up music careers to make wine on the edge of a mountain overlooking the sea. Tour the bodega to learn how this unique wine is made, and finish off tasting their txakoli, rosé, and sparkling wine with pintxo pairings and world-class views.
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Photo: José Manuel Bielsa / Rekondo
Already a locus of rich architectural, political, and artistic history for centuries, England’s capital boasts a vibrant new multi-culti energy that’s put it at center stage for all things contemporary, from experimental theater to world-beating restaurants. In short, not your mother’s London anymore.
Anja Mutic explores London’s South Bank neighborhood and reports back on why this is one of the city’s most exciting neighborhoods right now.
South Bank, London’s Latest Hotbed of CreativityBy Anja Mutic
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craftsmen and makers to create site-specific works, like jesmonite-cast side tables by Malgorzata Bany, a trio of portraits by Helen Gørill, including one of Shakespeare with a skateboard, and the whimsical mural with tiles hand-painted by illustrator and ceramicist Laura Carlin on the walls of Art|Yard restaurant and bar.
Creativity extends far beyond art at South Bank––right into your cocktail glass, no less. In the iconic venue overlooking the Thames on the ground floor of Sea Containers London hotel, the brand-new Lyaness bar, from the award-winning Mr Lyan and team, stirs cocktails with offbeat ingredients (like aromatized milk wine and king monkey nut). Book for afternoon tea or a weekend outing when house DJs spin rock, funk and disco, to sip on a spicy Snap Crackle Bellini or an uplifting Morning Glory Fizz in the electric-blue interiors.
Make a beeline for another newcomer to the blossoming local scene, Vinegar Yard, a former car park turned food & culture hub near London Bridge. The street food stalls churn out tasty treats like naanwiches and Indian-inspired burgers, container pop-up shops hawk vintage bric-a-brac, the open-air bar has local beer on tap and a massive outdoor garden offers stellar views of the Shard. There’s a flea market on weekends and a train carriage art installation curated by Benj Scrimgeour, founder of nearby Flat
Throughout history, Londoners have seen the south bank of the Thames as an industrial wasteland once known for brothels, bear-baiting and bawdy entertainment. It was a place to pass on your way to somewhere else. Then a cultural revival swept South Bank with the opening of Tate Modern, and the boom kept going. Now there are countless reasons to venture beyond the art behemoth and the riverside walkway and dive deeper into this thriving district on the Thames.
Weaving art indelibly into its DNA, Bankside Hotel, a slick 161-room hotel opened in 2018 steps from the riverfront, in a six-story building designed by award-winning architect
Ian Simpson. The Maker in Residence program curated by Contemporary Collective invites emerging artists to create and display their work at the Makers Hub, on the hotel’s ground floor with direct access onto a communal courtyard. The rotating cast of resident artists features some of the most promising talent in the art world, such as Ernesto Romano, who is slated to do an interactive workshop on how to apply Swarovski crystals to a print in July. Dayna Lee of Los Angeles’ Powerstrip Studio, a film set art director-turned-hotel designer used the “art school without the dust” theme to guide her vision of the interiors, with eclectic midcentury design at its heart. Lee invited several British
Iron Square, another revamped food & fun market worth visiting.
Pop into the recently unveiled Science Gallery London in London Bridge, to catch performances, live experiments and open discussions, all with science at their core. The next exhibit (free), DARK MATTER: 95% of the Universe is Missing (June 6–August 26) combines art, physics and philosophy to shed light on our universe. Among the highlights, perpetually changing liquid crystal paintings by Agnieszka Kurant morph according to the ‘energy’ of social media feeds around the globe. Another exhibit you can’t skip is “Olafur Eliasson: In Real Life” at Tate Modern (July 11, 2019–Jan 5, 2020), a major retrospective of the Danish-Icelandic artist’s work, including Your Blind Passenger installation that invites visitors to navigate a tunnel of thick colored fog.
Come sundown head to the Roof Garden atop Queen Elizabeth Hall in Southbank Centre, where you can unwind among wildflowers and fruit trees to gorgeous vistas of London’s skyline. To wrap up with a barbecue bonanza right on the Thames, head to the BBQ Club, a South Bank pop-up where chef Jimmy Gracia serves interactive six-course dinners (book ahead) featuring dishes like DIY Whiskey smoked trout, duo of lamb cutlets & lamb ribs, and sticky pineapple & coconut panna cotta.
“Come sundown head to the Roof Garden atop Queen Elizabeth Hall in Southbank Centre, where you can unwind among wildflowers and fruit trees to gorgeous vistas of London’s skyline.”A N J A M U T I C
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Photo: Hydon Perrior
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3 Photo: Morley Von Sternberg
1 BBQ Club
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3 Southbank Centre
4 Lyaness Bar
5 Tate Modern
6 Bankside Hotel
C A P I T A L C I T Y · L O N D O N - S O U T H B A N KI S S U E 2 T H E B E L L H O PB Y
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San Francisco is a global
culinary capital—from its
incredibly innovative and diverse
restaurant scene led by some
of the most creative chefs to its
access to fresh, locally sourced
ingredients. So who better to
ask about experiencing San
Francisco through its food than
Essentialist Globalite, renowned
chef, James Beard Award-
winning cookbook author and
international cooking teacher,
Joanne Weir? Here she reveals
her ideal Sunday, favorite new
chefs, and the city’s best farmer’s
markets.
By Blaire Dessent
Why San Francisco? How did this California city become your home? What do you love about it?
I grew up in New England and right after college, I made my first trip to San Francisco. I immediately fell in love. New England was old and cold and settled in its way but California… I loved the relaxed lifestyle, the food, proximity to the wine country and especially the people. I moved to San Francisco and never looked back.
What is one of your favorite San Fran neighborhoods and why?
I love Fillmore. It’s my neighborhood, Lower Pacific Heights. I discovered it on my trip when you could get an apartment for $500.00 which was a lot then. I loved that my neighborhood had a hardware store, a stationary store and a wine bar. Transitional at best, there were only a few restaurants. Now the Fillmore has some of the best in the city. All I need to do is walk 2 blocks and I can have the best Italian, Indian, Vietnamese and modern Middle Eastern.
What is your go-to restaurant for a great, easy meal with friends/family?
I love sitting at the bar at Out the Door which has the best Vietnamese food. This is my neighborhood go-to! I also love Octavia for the deviled eggs. It’s not your mother’s deviled egg!
Essentialist Globalite, Joanne Weir on food, wine, and why she loves San Francisco
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attraction to Mexico and its cuisine
I have written 16 cookbooks about the Mediterranean and my 17th book was about tequila cocktails and food including tequila. I was on a restaurant friend’s yacht off the coast of Mexico and handed him my book as a little gift. He told me he made the best margaritas. I challenged him by making mine. I won the competition and he asked if I would open a Mexican restaurant with him. I had had two margaritas by then and said yes. Thus, Copita was born!
watch and don’t forget to order some ceviche and cool off with a margarita.
What is a favorite farmer’s market or resource for fresh produce and ingredients for you?
I’m a farmer’s market junkie. I love the Sunday one on Clement Street. Only two blocks long but it’s manageable, excellent produce and always fun! I like the one at Fort Mason on Sunday and on Saturday, the best is at the Ferry Plaza. You can not only buy incredible produce but you can also have a delicious breakfast or lunch from one of the stands.
How has travel inspired your creativity in the kitchen?
I am crazy about travel, food and wine. Put the three together and I’m in heaven. I rent villas in Italy, Greece, Morocco, Spain and the south of France and like-minded food enthusiasts spend a week with me cooking, going on excursions together visiting restaurants. It’s my favorite thing that I do. I am always inspired by the outdoor markets, the restaurants and what we learn from the people we meet along the way. The best part is that I learn right along with them. Did I mention that I love my job?
Copita, your Sausalito-based restaurant and tequila bar, serves seasonal Mexican food to rave reviews. Tell us about your
Who are some of the up & coming chefs in the city who are making you take notice?
Oh, there are way too many! I still love some of the old standbys like Ravi Kapur at Liholiho, Mourad at Mourad, Laura and Sayat at Noosh, Kokkari, Melissa Perillo at Octavia, Laurence Jossel at Nopa, and the brand-new Angler.
How would your perfect Sunday in San Francisco unfold?
A perfect Sunday for me would be shopping at the Clement Street farmer’s market and picking up some things for dinner. The afternoon might include a bike ride through the Presidio so I don’t feel guilty about the special Sunday night supper I’m going to cook up. Of course, that includes opening a great bottle of wine.
If someone was going to San Francisco and wanted to experience it through its food, what would be a few essential things you would say they had to taste and/or places they have to visit?
Definitely go to the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s market on Saturday morning. Not to be missed! Also go to La Taqueria for a delicious grilled burrito, one of their specialties. Of course, a Mexican Negro Modelo is a must to go alongside. Or you can take the ferry over to Sausalito and visit me at Copita, my modern Mexican restaurant. Sit outside, people
What’s a new destination on your travel radar that you are looking to visit soon?
I’m filming along the Danube on a river ship with AMA Waterways for my next TV series called Plates & Places and I’m beyond excited about seeing this part of the world, one that I’ve never seen before.
“I am crazy about travel, food and wine. Put the three together and I’m in heaven. ”J O A N N E W E I R
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5 . A N J A M U T I CAnja Mutic is an award-winning travel writer who splits time between Croatia and New York. Having lived, worked and traveled on all continents except Antartica, Anja writes for publications like The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, AFAR and National Geographic Traveler.
2 . G I S E L L E W H I T E A K E RGiselle Whiteaker is the editor of a portfolio of lifestyle and property publications in the UK, and writes regularly on travel and food. She has contributed to publications including The Ritz, Luxury Briefing, St George and Ad Astra’s Lifestyle. She is Australian and has lived in Japan, South Korea, the United Arab Emirates and Vietnam, now calling London home. Her travel goal is to visit every US state—she has two remaining..
4 . M I K E M A C E A C H E R A NMike MacEacheran is a Scottish freelance writer and guidebook author who regularly contributes to Conde Nast Traveler, The Wall Street Journal, Sunday Times Travel, The Guardian, The Observer, Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, The Independent, BBC Travel and The Globe & Mail. He has travelled to 107 countries and lives in Edinburgh.
1 . F R A N E N D I C O T T M I L L E RFran Endicott Miller is a freelance feature writer for varied publications such as 65/57 Magazine, Napa Valley Life Magazine, LuxuryTravelMagazine.com, Walnut Creek Magazine, and Diablo Magazine. With a focus on travel, dining, and wine, she traverses California in search of hotels, restaurants, and experiences that exude sense-of-place. She prides herself on unveiling and lyrically capturing the heart of each of her stories.
3 . M A Y S S A M S A M A H AMayssam is a food and travel writer and blogger based in Montreal. From the latest coffee shop down the street to the trendiest restaurant across the planet, her wanderlust spirit is never satiated. Nothing brings her more joy than sharing her latest discoveries, culinary or otherwise, especially when they happen to be in her hometown of Montreal.
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