Farmhouse Sand and Water Table

8/6/2019 Farmhouse Sand and Water Table

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Farmhouse Sand and Water Table ©2011 Jenny Pickering

For individual home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes

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An original design for bumble&bean by Jenny Pickering

www.bumbleandbean.blogspot.com

This is simply the best toy that has ever come into our home.

It's a sensory delightIt allows for completely open-ended playIt fits in a narrow space

It's simpleIt's beautifulIt's built to last

It's inexpensiveIt will absolutely enrich your life

I love it so much I want you to have your own, too!

With simple tools and an afternoon, you can build this simple sand andwater table for the little ones in your life and enjoy it for years to come.

Good luck!





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Estimated Project Cost: $40-$60

Shopping List1 - 1x2 board, 8' long (we used pine ~$4, could use whitewood ~$2.50)1 - 1x2 board, 4' long (we used pine ~$2.50, could use whitewood ~$1.75)

2 - 1x3 boards, 6' long (we used pine ~$5.25/ea, could use whitewood~$2/ea)2 - 2x2s, 3' long (we used oak, ~$7.75/ea, could use whitewood ~$4/ea)

We chose pine 1x2s and 1x3s for the nice, crisp edges, but whitewoodwould work just fine. The whitewood 2x2s in our local Blue store were allterribly warped, so we splurged for the oak 2x2s which we found near the

craft boards. I'm so glad we did. With so little lumber needed for thisproject, going with better looking boards really made a difference.

Kreg 1-1/4" course thread screws (~$4 for 100)

1 - can spray primer 1-2 - cans spray paint

1 - can spray sealer

2 - Sterilite 28-qt. underbed storage bins with white lids - at W*mart for ~$6

(approx. 6" high x 16" wide x 23" long) Target has similar Sterilite bins withblue lids, but their measurements are slightly different and may not fitthese table measurements. Feel free to use whatever bins you have and

just adjust the measurements to fit.

1 - 50lb. bag of play sand, available at both Blue and Orange (~$5)

A 50lb. bag of play sand will fill one bin about three quarters of the wayup, which is perfect. More than that and all the sand ends up on theground! In our research, we found there was some concern over the silicacontent of the play sand. If you are worried, Orange has a "silica free"

play sand for about the same price as Blue's regular old play sand. Weopted for the regular stuff.





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Toolstape measure

pencilspeed squaremiter saw or miter box

Kreg Jigdrillwood gluesafety glasses

Using the Kreg Jig will definitely make this project easier to assemble,much sturdier in the long run, and more finished looking since all the screw

holes will be hidden. But if you don’t have a Kreg Jig, can’t borrow one,or can’t invest $100 in one right now, the Kreg Jr. would do the trick at amuch lower price. In a pinch, you could use standard screws, but you will

need to adjust the plan for this. You’ll also want to pre-drill your holes (toavoid splitting the wood), use wood glue (for a stronger hold) and oncethe table is assembled, fill the screw holes with wood filler, let dry and sandbefore priming and painting.

Cut ListA) 2 - 1x2 @ 48" (long sides of top frame)

B) 3 - 1x2 @ 14 5/8" (short sides and middle brace of top frame)C) 4 - 2x2 @ 18" (legs)D) 2- 1x3 @ 44" (long side of table skirt)

E) 2 - 1x3 @ 13 5/8"

General Instructions:

Please read through the entire plan before beginning this project. It is alsoadvisable to review the Getting Started Section at ana-white.com. Takeall necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a cleanlevel surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards.

Check for square after each step. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help ifyou need it. Good luck!





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Dimensions: 18 ¾” high x 48” wide x 17 5/8” deep

Step 1: Top Frame

Drill two pocket holes in each end of boards B. Glue and attach with Kregscrews.





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Step 2: Two Legs and Short Side of Skirt

Drill two pocket holes in the end of one board D. Glue and attach it to a

leg (C) with Kreg screws. The side of the D board with the pocket holesshould be 1/2" from the corner of the leg, as shown above. This side ofboard D (with the pocket holes) will face the inside of the table.

Step 3: All four legs and Short Side of Skirt

On the other end of the same board D (the side not attached to a legyet), drill two pocket holes on the inside face. Glue and attach to a leg

(C) with Kreg screws - making sure the D board is 1/2" from the insidecorner of the leg. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the remaining D board andtwo C legs.





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Step 4: Long Side of Table Skirt

Use Kreg Jig to drill two pocket holes in one end of an E board (44" 1x3).

Glue and attach it to one of the legs, 1/2" from the inside corner of theleg, as shown above. This side of board E (with the pocket holes) will facethe inside of the table.

Step 5: Four sides of Table Skirt and Four Legs

On the other end of the same E board (the side not attached to a legyet), use Kreg Jig to drill two pocket holes on the inside face. Glue andattach to a leg (C) with Kreg screws - making sure the E board is 1/2" from

the inside corner of the leg. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the remaining Eboard, until you have the legs and skirt fully adjoined, pictured above.





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Step 6: Joining the Legs and Skirt to the Top Frame

With the underside of the Top Frame (the side with all the pocket holes)

facing UP on a sturdy flat surface, place adjoined Legs and Skirt upside-down on top of the Top Frame, as shown. Mark placement of pocketholes on the inside of the skirt, using the diagram as a reference, and use

the Kreg Jig to drill pocket holes (16 total). Place the Legs and Skirt back on the Top Frame, glue and attach them using Kreg screws.





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Step 7: Finishing

Since it’s going to have lots of contact with water, it’s important to finish it

well. We used two light coats of spray primer, 2-3 light coats of a highquality spray paint, and two light coats of a high quality sealant. I prefer to use spray paint on furniture, because I feel like I get a smoother, more

polished finish. The trick is to go light on each coat of paint to avoid dripsand bubbles, and to sand with a very fine sanding block between coats. Iwas originally going to fill the pocket holes with little dowels, but once we

got the bins in, we didn't notice the pocket holes any more.

b b buuummm b b b llleee&&& b b b eeeaaannn





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Step 8: Let the fun begin!

bumble&bean






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A note about the lids, in case you are adjusting the measurements to suit

your own bins:

To make sure your lids can seal tightly, you will want to take your

measurements for the bin from under the tiny (but strong) supports under the lip of the bin. This will ensure your bin rests on those supports (insteadof the lip of the bin) so there is room for the lid to snap under the lip.


lip

room for lid to snap

tiny support restingon frame

Documents

Farmhouse Sand and Water Table