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E-Zine full of R/C and General Hobby related information.
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Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/All-About-Fun-Hobbies-
Games/166406400079562 We‟re updating our face book page regularly so be sure and go to our Facebook page and like us so you can get in on any deals or sales early. The face book page is also up-dated with how to videos and promotions.
All About Fun
Hobbies Forum http://
allaboutfunhobbies.com/hp_smf/index.php All About Fun Hobbies forum is an R/C forum where we can all come together and ask questions and share knowl-edge. Not to mention great stories. The forum has a members section only. In that section we are listing upcom-ing deals, sales and promo-tions before they happen. So by signing up for the forum and being an active member you will get first dibs at sav-ing money.
R/C Race Track
Update We are now officially an-
nouncing the opening of the Euless Raceway R/C Race
Track. As of Sunday July 10th 2011 the track will be setup
and open to the public free of
charge to use all day long from 12am to 6pm.
We have changed the
jumps and brought them
lower with more even transition
in a more off road style jump.
We added a table top with pass through and a small jump near
the end. Right now we are in the process of building some
trying out some triples or rough whoopties. The pass-through‟s
will be used at a later date in a new track configuration.
when the weather breaks and
it‟s cooler, we will start having actual races the races will be
held from possibly 4pm till 7 or 8pm. Until the racing catches
on will be doing races with a referee spotter. Races will be
$5 per entry per class. If and when the races catch on we will
switch over to a transponder system and the race entry will
be $15 for initial entry and $10 per additional entry. Your entry
fees cover the rental of your transponder. You will be wel-
come to purchase a trans-
ponder also. Only 2.4Ghz ra-
dios will be allowed to race.
“What kind of track and where could we possibly even
have a track with no field?” , you ask
Well we built a track out of
PVC pipe that we set up every Sunday morning in the parking
lot in front of the store. None of the other businesses on our
end of the building are open on Sundays so we have the whole
one end of the parking lot to
our selves all day. So we
thought, why not give YOU
GUYS a place to bring your
kids, run your cars, have fun and maybe share some tips
and tricks you have picked up in your hobby travels or
just share some stories about back in the day of the Grass-
hopper and Lunch Bucket. At the moment it‟s run
what you brung, So bring whatever you have and lets
race. The only thing we ask
is that you be courteous of others on the track. Not only will you be able to
use the track for free but we will have some R/c cars to demo. There’s no charge and
you get 5 minutes to try out one of the cars we have ready to go
If you have any questions please feel free to email, call
817-494-2647 or stop by All About Fun Hobbies & Games
415N. Main St., Euless, Tx 76039 and ask
What’s New, HOT
& Going Fast!!! Turnigy 5200mah 30-40C 2S Hardcase Lipo $39.98
Turnigy 4000mah 30-40C 2S Hardcase Lipo $34.99
Turnigy 3800mah 30-40C 2S Hardcase Lipo $29.99
FS-GT3B Digital 3ch 10 Model Memory 2.4ghz TX & RX W/LCD $58.33
Losi Ten SCTE 4x4 Short Course Rolling Chassis With Aluminum Chassis $299.99
All About Fun Hobbies & Games
Events and What’s New!!!!
Hobby Shop
News 8/15/2011
Volume 1, Issue 3
Home
Understanding
Gear Selection
2
Understanding
Gear Selection
3
R/C Car Setup Tips
For Racing
3
R/C Car Setup Tips
For Racing
4
Team Losi TLR TEN
SCTE 4x4 Short
Course Roller
5
Electrix Boost
Buggy
6
How to Build Plas-
tic Models - Tips,
techniques, and
tricks
7
How to Build Plas-
tic Models - Tips,
techniques, and
tricks
8
INSIDE THIS ISSUE:
All About
Fun Hobbies
& Games
Understanding Gear Selection
HOBBY SHOP NEWS Page 2
What is the best set-up for my truck? How fast will it go?
These are questions that have haunted me for nearly 10 years. I
have been running 1/10 scale R/C trucks off and on, without a real
good understanding of how to properly set it up. To me, it was FM ( friggin magic). What pinion
should I use? What if I change the spur gear? It was all trial and error that resulted in several melted mo-
tors, blown ESC‟s and damaged batteries.
But I have found the answer! And it is good!
Question 1: What size spur gear should I run? What about the pin-
ion gear? Well……. When selecting the spur
gear and pinion gear size, you need to understand that there is a direct
ratio between the tire circumfer-ence (referred to as roll-out) and the final drive
ratio. That ratio, in most cases, should be
as should be as close to 1 to 1 as possible. 1 to 1? What? By a 1 to 1 ratio, I
am referring to one revolution of the tire to one revolution of the motor. In
doing so, we do our best to main-tain the overall efficiency of the
motor by keeping it in the „Sweet Spot‟. Here‟s how it works. We‟ll use my
RC10T3 as the example vehicle. The first thing to consider is the diameter of your
tire. It is used to calculate the roll-out of the
tire. Multiply the diameter of the tire by pi. ( Ex: 3.25”xpi=10.2101”) Now,
you need to consider the final drive ratio of
your drive train. Begin by dividing the number of teeth on the spur
gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear. This will give you your exter-
nal drive ratio. ( Ex: 87/19=4.5789). Now
multiply your external drive ratio with your transmission gear ratio ( Ex:
2.4x4.5789=10.9893 ). This is your final drive ratio.
Now, what do we do with these
numbers? Subtract the final drive ratio from the roll-out of the tire . (Ex: 10.2101-
10.9893= -0.77926) Redo the calculation adding another tooth on the pinion : ( Ex:
87/20= 4.35 ( drive ratio )x2.4 ( transmission gear ratio )=
10.44 ( final drive ratio ) Then subtract the final drive ratio ( 10.44 ) from the roll-out (
10.2101 ) ( Ex: 10.2101-10.44= -0.230).
So, what is this formula telling us? In order to maintain the 1:1 ratio
between your roll-out and your final drive ratio, you need to select a gearing
combination that is as close to a 0 margin as possible. In this case, the -0.230
is the optimal choice, since it as close to 0 as we can get, without
going over. How do we know this works? We
can check our overall efficiency by dividing the roll-out by the final drive ratio. In
this case, the 10.2101 roll-out, and the
10.44:1 final drive ratio means that we have less than a 3% total loss in
efficiency. In other words, the tire turns 0.977 times, for every 1
revolution of the motor. Generally, it is
best for your motor to gear your vehicle within a + or - 10% margin. ( In the
case of this formula, +1 to -1 is an acceptable
margin.) Overgearing a vehicle will add
to the speed of the vehicle, but it does so at a tremendous cost. The addi-
tional strain placed on the mo-tor by the shorter
gearing, will cause tremendous heat build up as the motor struggles to reach its
peak RPM. Undergearing a ve-hicle can be just as damaging. Since the motor will
operate at it‟s peak RPM almost exclusively, it will accelerate
the wear of the components and dramatically shorten it‟s service life.
This formula works best with 1/10 scale vehicles running
stock to mid-modified motors. ( 27 turn to around 12
turn motors ). However, hotter motors 12 turn and lower may require you
to reduce the margin by as much as -1 to combat heat build-up. But never gear your
vehicle below an overall efficiency of 90%.
We hav simplified this equa-sion, by adding a Gear Wizard
Calculator. All you need to do is add the right entries, and the calculator does the math for
you!
GEAR WIZARD Question 2: How fast will it
go? Well, we have half the equation already. Using the
circumference of the tire divide that by the final drive ratio. ( Ex:
10.2101/10.44=.977797) multiply that number by the maximum working rpm that your motor is
capable of. Most motors are rated at XXX RPM, XXX rpm/volt, or XXXk/v. With the peak RPM rating,
simply use that number, unless you are using a higher voltage cell.
For RPM/v (k/v) you simply multi-ply its number of RPM/volt by the number of volts supplied to the
motor. I have a Trinity Jade 15 turn motor. It is rated for 28,500 rpm. @ 7.2 volts. ( Ex:
.977797*28500= 27,867.2145 inches per minute )
Convert that sum to feet per min-ute by dividing by 12 ( 12 inches in a foot) ( Ex: 27,867.2145
/12=2322.2678 feet per minute ). Now multiply your feet per minute by 60 minutes ( Ex: 2322.2678
*60= 139,336.0725 feet per hour ). Now divide your feet per hour by
5280 ( the number of feet in a mile ). ( Ex: 2322.2678 /5280= 26.389 miles per hour ). Keep in mind that
this number is entirely theoretical and is affected by the age of your motor, condition and charge of
your battery, friction and or slip from your tires etc. Despite this, it
is a pretty good estimate of just how fast you can go with a given motor!
So, the key to speed and longevity is a high rpm motor coupled to a
properly geared drive train. It will make for many a happy afternoon
of backyard bashing with your truck!
R/C Car Setup Tips for Racing
HOBBY SHOP NEWS Page 3
properly set up your car I would recommend: Camber gauge
Ride height gauge
X-Acto
Spring spacers
All of the tools to
lengthen/shorten your shocks OK, now that you have found a flat surface set the car down as you would on the track less the body, (weighted). Next, set your ride height, you do this by adding spring spacers to
your shocks. If you are running a B4 Buggy for example, run your ride height anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Keep in mind that different cars may require a different ride height to work prop-erly. Also, it's usually best on the B4 to set the ride height to the same level front and rear! When you settle the cars suspension on the flat surface, you
should be able to lift up on the front of the car and there should be some down travel. Same thing with the rear. If you don't have down travel then re check the length of your shocks and ride height and try again. Also, if you don't have any down travel, setting the car's tweak (which will be dis-cussed later) will require a different method.
Adjusting your camber. This should be fairly self-explanatory. Basically, don't run positive camber ever, and only run up to 3
RC Car Setup Tips For
Racing
First off, all cars are different. These are some basic rules that all cars need, but as far as the actual setup goes, different cars react differently to the same adjustments. Also, all tracks are different, Conditions
are different, and driving styles are different. Basics (1) One thing to do that all pro racers do today is not only build the car, but take time with it. They make sure that everything is moving freely. For example, pop off the shock and make sure that all of the sus-pension arms are moving freely. Also, take off the steer-ing linkage and make sure the
steering is free. Another good thing to do is make sure that your drive train is free. If not, it is fairly easy to clean it out. A) You could have dirt in the pulleys. B.) The belt could be too tight. C.) The bearings
could be gritty and cause lots of friction, D.) Drive cups could have dirt in them, the list goes on! Also, another important thing is to make sure that nei-ther belts or drive shafts are coming in contact with your
electronics or any wires. This can save you money and frus-tration. Preparing (2) Preparing for race day is a very important thing. If you are like
me, you don't want to be set-ting tweak at the track. The first thing to do is pull out a new or slightly used set of tires that you KNOW are going to be straight. Slap them on the car and find a VERY flat surface. To
degrees negative camber. On the B4, it is always safe to run around 1 degree. Set the car down on the table and settle the suspen-sion. Do this by tapping on the front of the car a few times and do the same to the rear. Next, get down so
the car's chassis is at eye level. Say that you are go-ing to be looking at the back of the car. Place the x-acto in the center of the chassis and lift up. What happens? Does one wheel leave the ground before the other? Are they the same? Well, if they are the same go to the front of the car and do the same thing. If not , which wheel lifts first, right or left? Say the right
wheel lifts first, you can do 2 things: lengthen the right shock, or shorten the left shock. Get the idea? Do this until both wheels leave the ground at the same time. Then check the front if you haven't already done so. Do the same thing to the front now. Then check the rear again to make sure that any of your adjustments from the front didn't effect the rear. This can kind of be a
see-saw for a while. Ok, now that the tweak is set, along with the camber and ride height you are pretty much done. At the track (3) Personally I have never been to a race where there are NO racers that are will-ing to share information. So
R/C Car Setup Tips For Racing Continued
HOBBY SHOP NEWS Page 4
ask your buddies or some-one who is pitted near you what the tire is for the day. Go ahead and try it, do you like it? No? Yes? Has an awkward feel? I have learned that tires are probably the most impor-tant thing at a race. If you don't have the tire that eve-
ryone seems to like lately, don't expect your car to be off the hook! Another thing that only does good is PRACTICE! I can't say this enough. Track time is an-other thing probably more valuable then anything! Now that I have that straight, how does the car work? What setup works? Also, try all of the tires you have if you have the time. Ok, I know I said earlier
that I don't like doing work at the track but if your car needs it (which it might) you are going to have to break down and spend a little time. If the car is tweaked, re set the tweak, if the tires suck, try other tires, get the idea? Now, as far as the car steering is concerned, this is a whole other matter. First off, Dual Rate is probably the one thing that I use most on my
radio. If the car has too much steering, all you have to do is turn down the dual rate! If the car doesn't have enough steering, turn up the DR. Ideally, you want to find the right balance. This means that the car steers into the turn just as you want it too, and comes out
of the turn just as you want it to. Say the car has a push going into the turn, and has kind of an over-steer coming out of the turn. In this situation, put one of your smallest shock shims in both of the rear shocks. This will raise the rear ride height and give
you more bite in the rear coming out of the turn, and more bite in the front going into the turn. If the car does the opposite (over-steers going into the turn and under-steers coming out), then put 2 of your smallest shims in both of the front shocks. Do this until you find the right bal-ance.
Hopefully this helps and if you
have any questions / com-ments feel free to post them on the forum at http://allaboutfunhobbies.com/hp_smf/i
ndex.php
1. FUNCTIONAL MUD FLAPS WITH LOSI
LOGO
2. OVERSIZED 12MM ANODIZED,
THREADED SHOCKS
3. 12MM WHEEL HEXES
4. SECURE BATTERY STRAPS
5. BATTERY TRAY ACCEPTS MULTIPLE
TYPES AND SIZES OF PACKS
6. HEAVY-DUTY, 4MM TIE RODS WITH
CAPTURED ENDS
7. BEAD-
LOCK-
STYLE SCT
WHEELS WITH
RINGS
8. FRONT
AND REAR SWAY
BARS IN-CLUDED
9. ECLIPSE™
SHORT COURSE
TRUCK TIRES
10.SECURE
RADIO
BOX TO PROTECT
THE RE-CEIVER
11.SIMPLE
ADJUST, ALUMI-
NUM MO-TOR
MOUNT LIGHTWEIGHT BLACK ANODIZED ALUMI-
NUM CHASSIS
Features: Lightweight Black Anodized Alumi-
num Chassis Precision formed and machined from 3mm
thick premium aluminum alloy, the TEN-
SCTE's chassis
provides a
rock-solid
foundation for
unbeatable
strength and
stability. The
chassis plate features a
black anodized
coating for
increased durability and resistance to the
elements. 4MM Tie Rods With Captured Ends We've de-
signed the TEN
-SCTEs tie
rods with cap-
tured ends to
stand up to
extreme im-
pacts and vir-
tually any
terrain you'll
encounter. Captured rod ends prevent
accidental disconnection and
keep the suspension solid and
reliable. Simple Adjust Motor Mounts The TEN-SCTE's motor mount
design is
based
upon the
TLR race-
oriented
8IGHT-E
motor
mount
design. A
single
screw will
allow for quick adjustments and
motor removal for maintenance
and cleaning.
Anodized Threaded Shocks
The TEN-SCTE's
big-bore, 12mm
machined alumi-
num shock bod-
ies are blue
anodized for smooth opera-
tion and wear
resistance.
Threaded shock
collars offer easy yet
precise adjustment of pre-load and ride
height. Shock pistons and bladders are
specifically designed for the TEN-SCTE's
chassis design and weight provides opti-
mum ride and handling. Losi Exclusive Eclipse Short Course
Tire and Beadlock-Style Wheels The black wheels
with simulated
beadlock rings
ensure power is
transferred to
the ground in
style, while the
Eclipse SCTs
provide plenty
of traction on
multiple surface
types.
Required to Complete ARR Kit
550-sized Brushless System Such as
the Castle Mamba Max Pro esc and
4600KX Motor Combo, SV2 System or
Novak Havok Spec 13 Turn Sensored
1/10-scale Steering Servo
2S LiPo Battery Pack and Charger
2-channel Radio System
Polycarbonate Paint
Priced Right around $299.99 for the
TLR TEN SCTE 4x4 Short Course ARR
makes the SCTE a huge winner for any type of racing Competition.
Team Losi TLR TEN SCTE 4x4 Short Course Roller
HOBBY SHOP NEWS Page 5
The Boost buggy rounds out the Elec-trix RC line up. It’s dependable and race friendly chassis is sure to be a hit with buggy fans worldwide. Taking cues from more expensive racing rigs, the Boost is still an Electrix RC vehicle through and through. Built to last with the durability you come to expect, it is des-tined to be a solid addition to the Electrix RC lineup. Each Electrix vehicle is fully ready to run, complete with all batteries
needed, including the AA’s. As with all Electrix RC vehicles, you always get oil filled shocks, full ball bear-ings, fully painted and
decaled bodies plus a nylon compos-ite chassis built with the beginning user in mind.
True ready to run
vehicle with everything included
ROAR and IF-
MAR legal
Wheels are a
stylish dish type with ribbed front tires and square pin rear tires
Super low
slung body available in 2 color schemes (Blue – ECX3000, Orange ECX3100)
The chas-
sis is a narrow design with rolled edges to reduce drag
and hanging up on irregular sur-faces.
Universal
slider type drive shafts
Transmis-
sion has an ad-justable slipper clutch
4 Oil filled
adjustable shocks provides great handling
2WD Transmission with gear
differen-tial makes it reliable and effi-cient Custom battery strap with easy to use thumb clips
Review We are in love with this car. We’ve been testing this car out for the last three weeks. It’s excellent!!! The Car The car comes with everything you need to get going, literally right out of the box. Charger, Battery, Batteries for the remote, the car and the remote. We put the car to the paces up against B4 buggies, Losi buggies, T4s and a host of other cars. It per-formed way beyond our expecta-tions. While it wasn’t the fastest car on the track it certainly was among the most consistent as far as han-dling and jumping. Durability is be-yond what you would expect from a RTR in the price range of $129.99.
It took every bump, bang and smash we threw at it and came out
with no broken bones. Bang for buck this buggy far exceeds anything we could have hoped for. Priced Right around
$129.99 for the Boost Buggy makes it a huge
winner for any type of racing Competition.
Electrix Boost Buggy Page 6
Type: 2WD Buggy
Scale: 1/10
Length: 15.8 in (401mm)
Width: 9.75in (248mm)
Wheelbase: 11.2 in (284mm)
Weight: 3.44 lb (1560g)
Motor or Engine: Dynamite® 20-Turn
Motor
Speed Control: Dynamite® ESC
Shock Type: Coil over Oil-Filled
Shocks
Body: Orange
Minimum Age Recom-
mendation: 14 years
How to Build Plastic
Models - Tips, tech-
niques, and tricks Here are tips and techniques that will help you make plastic models suc-
cessfully and that look great. Plastic model making can be a very reward-
ing hobby but it takes some patience and there are a few things you should
know in order for your models to come out looking as realistic as possi-
ble.
Some Useful Tools - The tools you use can make a very
big difference in how your model goes together and how it eventually
looks, not to mention it can reduce
the frustration level during the build-
ing. Here are some recommended tools that I use. Think creatively
when it comes to tools. I have impro-vised all
kinds of different
tools in-cluding
small pieces of
wire, cot-ton swabs
and more. As
you are working on your model you will come up with great ideas on tools
that you could use or even make.
Here are some of the tools that I use when making models from left to
right:
Sand paper & Emory Boards
Dental pick
Micro files
Side cutters
Magnifying Glass
Deburring tool (Red handle)
Hobby Knife (Yellow handle)
Needle nose pliers (Orange han-
dle)
Awl
Scissors
Shown also are a parts holder
with magnifying glass and model cement
Rubber Bands/Clothes pins (not
shown)
As with all plastic models. There are
several things that come inside the box.
You should inspect everything carefully to make sure nothing is missing. This
model comes with several sprues with parts, an assembly procedure booklet
and a small sheet of stickers (decals) that you will
apply to the model when it
is done.
You should inspect eve-rything and make sure nothing is missing from the kit. You should also read over the whole assembly process. This is impor-tant because the assembly of parts can be affected by future parts. Gluing a part in place might need to be changed a little bit because of a part you will place in a later step.
After inspecting and reading everything you should gently and carefully wash the plastic sprues in warm soapy water. Rinse them all off and let them air dry. This will make a difference in how the paint and decals adhere to the plastic.
It is a good idea to figure out your painting scheme before you build the model and to paint some of the smaller parts while they are still on the sprue. This will give you a much higher level of detail. And
painting some parts are they are glue into the model can be very difficult. They can be difficult to reach with a brush or painting them can cause paint to run over into
other parts. Once these parts are cut from the sprue you can touch them up a bit before gluing them into place.
Painting from the
cap. This is a nice way to get small
amounts of paint.
Once you are ready
to start building the model you
should cut the
parts from the
sprue with either side cutters or a
hobby knife. (I prefer the hobby
knife) This will help you keep the shapes exactly as they are intended
without distortion or breakage.
Once the part is removed from the
sprue you will see it has a small burr
on it where it was attached. You
should carefully file this down with
a micro file or small piece of very
fine sandpaper.
I really like the parts holder with mag-nifying glass. It
holds the piece while you work
on it. In this pic-ture I am gluing
the track to the tank. Having two
free hands makes a big difference.
Plastic model ce-
ment really works well and it usually
only takes 5-10 sec-onds of holding it
before you can re-lease it but some-
times using a rubber band (or clothes pins) to hold large
parts together can really help.
MORE TIPS - This sounds funny but you should
keep your hands clean and wash them frequently while working on your plas-
tic model. The oils from your fingers can affect the parts and particularly
the paint on any parts.
-Dry fit pieces as often as possible before gluing them and take a look.
Will this part be affected by future parts? Does it fit exactly as you think it
will fit? Do you have the orientation correct? I have glued in way too many
pieces only to realize I had it wrong and had to take it back out.
- Applying decals: This can be very
tricky but follow the instructions that
How to Build Plastic Models - Tips, techniques, and
tricks
Page 7
Welcome to All About Fun hobbies and games, where it’s all about the fun. We are a
family owned and operated full line hobby shop. We are excited to meet new people and hopefully we can grow with you in your hobby interests.
The Hobby Shop News is geared towards keeping you and us in-formed of the changes in our hobby interests. This will be the first is-sue and we will send one issue a month out. As it grows we will add more content and more pages covering more than just R/c. So Stay tuned.
All About Fun Hobbies & Games Specializes in Nitro and electric re-
mote control Cars, Trucks, Airplanes, Helicopters and even boats. We
also carry plastic models, Die cast, Airsoft pellet guns and accesso-
ries, model rockets, slot cars, Woodland Scenic landscaping supplies,
Scene-O-Rama School project supplies, and accessories, science &
education sets, even fish & aquarium supplies and much more. If
you’re not finding what you think you should be on the website, call
817-494-2647, email [email protected] or better yet
come on by and say hi.
You can mix paints to get custom
colors, just be sure to mix enough to
complete the project because it can be almost impossible to remix an-
other batch and match the color ex-actly.
Paint the smaller or more difficult to
reach parts while they are still on the
sprue
Consider priming the parts and model
with a gray colored primer. This will
make a significant difference in how the final paint takes to plastic and
how the model ends up looking ( primer is particularly good when you
will be painting light colors over dark plastic).
Two Techniques for getting professional looking painting 1. use a technique called
washing. This is where you let the paint dry then you wash on a very wet layer of
black and swish it around with the brush. because it is so wet it settles down into
the cracks and looks really good. 2. Dry brushing: This is where you put paint on
your brush then wipe it off. This gives you a very dry brush, now brush this gently
over the surface and over high spots on the model. It will leave small traces of the
come with the model. Typically you cut out the decal and then soak it in water
for 20 seconds then slide it right onto the
model. I always use a pair of tweezers to
hold the paper and a dental tool to gently
slide the decal onto
the model. Then I
use a very small piece of paper towel to pat it dry. Decals
can be difficult to move once they are in
place so try to slide it right into its proper position.
PAINTING TIPS Painting is something that can make or
break your model. A good paint job makes all the difference in the world and
a bad paint job can ruin a well built model. Here are some tips:
Keep a wide variety of paintbrush
sizes and use them all.
Paint your strokes in one direction.
It will dry with a better brushless
look
new color paint on the high surfaces. These two techniques take some practice but are
worth it.
Custom Mixing your own colors: This is one of the best ways you can get your model or
miniature to look very
realistic. It
takes a bit of
practice to mix colors
well but it is
worth the time and effort. I used the tops of old milk
jugs to mix my colors .
We’re here for you. Save More / Play More
by shopping with All About Fun Hobbies and Games!
How to Build Plastic Models - Tips, techniques, and tricks
Continued
415 N. Main St Suite 105
Euless, Tx 76039
Phone: 817-494-2647
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.allaboutfunhobbies.com
Ebay: allaboutfunhobbies
Where it’s all about the FUN!!!!
ALL ABOUT FUN
HOBBIES & GAMES
Visit us on the web @
www.allaboutfunhobbies.com