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Gobi the African Flower Camel Heidi Bears Designs © 2016

Page 1

Gobi the African Flower

Camel Crochet Pattern A Heidi Bears Design Pattern © Heidi Bears 2016

I have permission from the designers of this African Flower Crochet Hexagon to design patterns using the African Flower Hexagon

motif, and to sell these patterns.

You are welcome to sell any nished camels, made by yourself. Please respect the pattern itself, including instructions, words,

photographs, diagrams and the actual construction of the camel, and do not share, copy, post or distribute in any way, electronic or

other that will infringe my right as the author and creator of this pattern. Please do not use the actual camel pattern to modify and/

or alter in any way to create or design and sell derivative patterns, including using a dierent hexagonal / polygonal motif to make

a camel like Gobi. Thank you for respecting the hard work that has gone into designing this pattern. I hope you will love makingyour own herd of camels!

Please add a credit link to any nished items that you are selling, linking to my Ravelry pattern shop: http://www.ravelry.com/de-

signers/heidi-bears

Your nished item tag should state that this African Flower camel is made from a Heidi Bears Design pattern. NO mass production

is allowed.

I have written this pattern with all the kinds of crocheters that may want to make a little camel, in mind. Crocheters have dierent

abilities to follow patterns…some folks have visual spatial concerns, some are able to follow text better and some are newbies who

need a bit of extra help. The pattern has been written in the best way I know, to address these diering skill levels. If this patterncontains more than what you need, especially if you are an experienced crocheter, please bear with the detail…someone else may

nd it helpful.




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Gobi the Camel is the 21st of my patterns that makes use of the African Flower hexagon crochet mo -

tif and variations thereof, joined in a specic order to make a recognizable 3D item. Gobi is an excel-

lent stash buster project, as you only need to use very small amounts of leftover sock yarn to make

a motif. If you follow the steps carefully, paying attention to ensure you have joined a motif correctly

before moving on to the next step, you’ll manage ne in making your own little camel :)

So, let’s take a look at the important points and how to start making your adorable Gobi!

:: Steps to making your own camel :: 1. NB: First read the whole pattern through properly, so you have a good overview. I cannot

emphasize this enough!

2. Make sure you know how to crochet the African Flower hexagon crochet motif. I have includ -

ed both written and charted instructions for the African Flower hexagon in this pattern. If you are a

visual learner, you can see a step by step photo tutorial on my blog:

http://heidibearscreative.blogspot.com/2010/05/african-ower-hexagon-crochet-tutorial.html

3. Make sure you are able to crochet an African Flower pentagon, heptagon, square and trian -

gle. For clarity: the pentagon has ve petals and ve sides and the heptagon has seven petals and

seven sides and so on…. The dierence is simply the number of “petal” repeats that you crochet…pentagons, triangles, squares and heptagons are therefore equally easy to crochet. I have included

written and charted instructions in this pattern on how to crochet an African Flower Pentagon (as well

as all the other motifs). I have also posted a fully explained pentagon tutorial, on my blog, which can

be found here:

http://heidibearscreative.blogspot.com/2011/09/african-ower-penatgon-tutorial.html

4. Make sure you have gone through and practiced the join-as-you-go technique. This has been

explained and illustrated at the end of the pattern in a section titled “Appendix : Joining Tutorials”.

Since the joining method is really very important to the success of the project, I strongly suggest that

you practice joining on scrap yarn motifs before starting the project. If you would prefer to sew your

motifs together, you won’t need to practice the join-as-you-go technique, but will need to be con-

dent in your neat sewing ability. I have not included instructions on how to sew stu together…there

are plenty resources available on the internet…

5. Either choose your yarn for this project or use the sock yarn that you have left over from other

projects. Make all the required motifs for your camel, BUT only up to Round 4 of the African Flower

motif if you are doing a join-as-you-go method (JAYG), or the full motif up to Round 5 if you are sew-

ing up the motifs.




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: : Materials Requirements : :The camel that was crocheted for this pattern, was made using sock weight/ngering/#1

weight yarn. Using this weight yarn will give you a camel measuring approximately 30cm mea-

sured from tail to nose, and approximately 20cm from the top of the back to the feet.

ALL OF THE CROCHET STITCHES USED IN THIS PATTERN ARE BASED ON AMERICAN

CROCHET TERMS

Sock weight / Fingering weight yarn/ #1 in colors of your choice... this little camel is a

great stash busting project as you can use small amounts of sock yarn for each motif, and the

more colourful the prettier. Although I can’t tell you how much yardage of each color I used I

can tell you that the total weight of yarn for the camel was around 150g (unstued).The yardage for the sock yarn I used is around 320m/100g (350yds/100g). It is a superwash

merino yarn, but you can use any alternative ngering weight yarn you like…I suggest that ani-

mal bre yarns would be preferable, as they have more stretch, making the stung and shap-

ing of the camel easier. Try to use a yarn with a similar yardage per 100g. If you use a heavier

weight yarn and a larger hook, the camel will be bigger than the one made in sock yarn, and

you will obviously need more polyester stufng.

Crochet Hook 1.75mm

If you are planning to make your camel in a heavier weight yarn, adjust your hook size accord-

ingly…however, use the smallest hook size possible for the weight of yarn that you can manage.

Note that the hook size recommended by the yarn manufacturer would not be the correct size

to use for this project…Since the camel is stued, your stitch density will need to be tighter than

usual to prevent the stung from popping out. Make a test motif in your chosen yarn and hook

to see which would be the best size to use.

Polyester toy stung Haemostats (optional for stung)

Scissors Tapestry Needle used for sewing in ends Sewing Pins

Sewing needle Long tapestry needle

Eyes (plastic safety eyes or glass wire-looped eyes). PLEASE NOTE THAT ATTACHED EYES ARE

NOT RECOMMENDED FOR TOYS CREATED FOR CHILDREN! They can be a suocation hazard. If

you are making this toy for a child, rather embroider the eyes using embroidery thread! I would

still suggest sculpting the eye sockets before embroidering the eyes…it adds a lovely realistic

element. I have used 9mm wire looped glass eyes. These can easily be sourced from sellers

on eBay and Etsy.




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: : Skills Requirements : :Basic Crocheting Skills: Chain stitch (ch) , Single Crochet (sc), Double Crochet (dc), Slip Stitch

(sl st), joining a chain to make a ring, joining in a new color

Join-as-you-go motif joining: This pattern will require that you join the crocheted motifs each

stitch to each stitch. This is necessary to prevent the stung popping out of the camel. It is

imperative that you are condent in your join-as-you-go ability. The method I use is explained

in the Appendix pages found at the end of the pattern. These tutorials are illustrated by using

motif chart illustrations with explanatory notes. This cuts down on printing

However, if you are scared witless by the thought of doing a join-as-you-go joining method,

all is not lost…you can simply make all your motifs in full (including Round 5), then sew them

together. The order of motif placement and the number of sides needing to be joined stays

exactly the same whether you join-as-you-go or sew up.

Basic sewing skills Sewing the ears to the head.

Number of Motifs Required for Gobi

Hexagons = 24 Pentagons = 15

Heptagon = 2 Triangle = 1

Square = 2

TOTAL REQUIRED MOTIFS: 44




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: : General Tips : :There are a few tips that you will want to know, to make your life easier, when making Gobi.

Please read these tips through several times so you are really ofay with them.

NOTE: The heptagons are SUPPOSED TO CURL. This is part of the design intent … you are

not doing anything wrong! It will work out in the end…promise! The triangle and squares are

also not totally at motifs, but “cup” into a semi-rounded shape…this is also ok!

I strongly recommend that you work through the Joining Tutorial...because Gobi is stued, you

will need to join the African Flower motifs, stitch to stitch, so that the stung doesn’t pop out.

Although this is really easy once you get the hang of it, if you aren’t careful in having the cor-

rect stitch number etc, you will have a nightmare joining motifs, and more than likely give up in

despair! I want to be sure that you are a happy camel creator, so please take the time to be a

joining superstar!

If you prefer, you can make the motifs as required and sew them up with yarn and needle in -

stead.

TIP 1: ROUND 4: When you crochet Round 4 of the African Flower Hexagon, ie the round of

sc’s on the outer edge of the ower petals, (in the photos on page 8, the apricot colored sc’s),

make sure that you end up with SEVEN sc’s between the long dc stitches. In order for you to

easily join the motifs, each stitch to each stitch, you will have to have the correct number of

outer sc’s separated by long dc’s.

TIP 2: ROUND 5: When you crochet Round 5 of the African Flower motif (in the photos on

pg 8, seen as the outermost round in cream colored yarn), make sure that you have NINE dc’s

separated by the chain stitches as shown. NOTE that dc number 9 of a “9dc repeat”, and dc

number 1 of the next along “9dc repeat” (of round 5), are made into THE SAME sc space below

of round 4. This point is what I have arbitrarily called the APEX of the ower petal.

TIP 3: JOINING-AS-YOU-GO PROCESS: When you join one motif to another, the motif you

are joining TO, will ALWAYS have all its Rounds completed, ie Round 5 will always have been

crocheted. The motif you are joining (ie the one you are ADDING/JOINING to the other), will

only have been crocheted up to Round 4. The join-as-you-go process creates Round 5 of this

motif. So when you see an instruction like “Join a hexagon on three sides”, it means that you

need to take a hexagon that has been crocheted only up to Round 4, and crochet Round 5 as

you join to the other motifs. A “side” will always be the distance between two ower apices,

ie you will start your joining at one chain space point, and work to the next chain space. This means that all motifs that are being joined will have a small part of Round 5 at the begin -

ning that is unjoined (photo below). This does not apply to motifs that are joined ON ALL SIDES,

only to motifs that are joined on less than ALL SIDES.




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TIP 4: JOINING-AS-YOU-GO: If you nd the joining-as-you-go too dicult, then make up the

completed motifs for each body part and sew them together using spare yarn and a tapestry

needle.

TIP 5: 9dc REPEAT: When you are joining sides of motifs to each other, you will essential-

ly be matching petal apex to petal apex (that is why you need to be sure that you have 9 dc

between each petal apex...ie matching and joining 9dc’s to 9dc’s on the joined sides). Where

I have indicated the sides of motifs to be joined, I am using colored lines to show which sides

correspond to each other. Remember that the lines will run from petal apex to petal apex

(sometimes it is hard to illustrate exactly the beginning and end of the side to be joined, be-

cause the crocheted work tends to naturally curl, so the work and therefore the photos can be

a bit distorted...), and that this distance is what is called a “side”.

TIP 6: ALWAYS WORK WITH THE RIGHT SIDE FACING YOU: I have photographed the work

from the RIGHT SIDE, up to the point where it has become impractical to keep the work at

for photographing...because you are creating a 3D shaped body and head, your work will curl

up naturally after adding several motifs. The motifs are ALWAYS added/joined with their right

sides facing you, If you look down at the work when starting to add a new motif, you will be

crocheting in an ANTICLOCKWISE direction, starting the joining round at the point indicated in

the photographs/illustrations by a pink arrow. If you have worked through the joining tutorial,

you will have a clearer understanding of this tip.

In the photo on the left, the blue arrow shows

the starting stitches of Round 5 (cream yarn)

of the ‘joining motif”. The rst point at which

you will join to the motif shown by the crochetchart (ie, the completed motif), is at the petal

“apex”, which is where the two dc’s of Round

5 have their “feet” sitting in the same stitch

space. In doing this you also “create” a pet-

al apex on the “joining motif”, ie joining petal

apex to petal apex. The purple curve and red

dot show a slip stitch into the chain space of

the opposite motif, after which you make the

second dc of the “joining motif” petal apex. The

pink arrow indicates the “joining motif” petal

apex point.




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TIP 7: CROCHET HOOK QUALITY: I strongly recommend that you use good quality crochet

hooks. Your hooks MUST have good deep throats, or you might struggle with crocheting the

smaller motifs. As Gobi is a stued animal, the motif stitch density has to be tight, to prevent

the stung popping out. Unfortunately this means that your crochet will be quite tight, and if

your hooks don’t have good throats, you will struggle to pull the yarn through motif stitches.

TIP 8: MOTIF SIZE: The exact size of each motif is not as important as that your tension

should be the same over time as you crochet. Remember, the yarn and hook stay the same,

the only variable for motif size is your tension. For reference, my completed hexagons mea-

sure around 5.5cm from point to point when using the recommended yarn and hook.

TIP 9: COLOR VARIATIONS: I have made Gobi in a variety of colors, but the sky is the limit…

choose your own color combinations, the making process remains the same.

TIP 10: STUFFING: In some of the photos I have stued Gobi partly, mostly to show the mo -

tifs more clearly for reference purposes…this does not mean you need to stu your camel as

well…only stu him when the pattern instructs you to do so…

TIP 11: ORIENTATION: When I talk of Gobi’s left and right or left and right -hand sides, I use

the terms as anatomically correct, ie if you are looking directly at Gobi’s tail end, standing

right behind him, all motifs on the right hand side are “Right side / Right-hand side” motifs,

and all motifs on the left side are “Left side / Left-hand side” motifs.

TIP 12: TURNING THE CORNER: Some of the motifs are joined along three sides to each oth-

er, eg a foot or leg…here are some photos that will help you “turn the corner” so to speak…

The numbers are the order of steps you take when turning the corner.




Page 8

:: Making your Camel: Illustration Meanings ::Gobi is worked initially from the legs up, then we’ll make his sides, then work from the

bum forwards towards the head. In the instructions that follow, I have used the fol-

lowing illustration keys to indicate certain things…please be sure you know what each

of these things show…it will make it easier for you to follow the pattern

Bright Pink Arrows: These pink arrows always show the point on the work, where

you will start joining your next motif. Remember that a joining side is the distance

between the chain space {dc, ch, dc} at a petal apex to the next-along chain

space {dc, ch, dc} of a petal apex. So the pink arrow will always point to the chain

space at a petal apex.

Colored lines: Colored lines on motifs are used to show which sides will be joined

together with JAYG or sewing. So for example, sides bearing green lines are joined

together etc…remember that a side is always the distance from a chain space at a

petal apex to a chain space at a petal apex, so a colored line will always indicate this

distance, even if it doesn’t look like that in a photo.

Black Numbers: Black numbers show what the motif is … so a “6” means that the

motif is a hexagon as it has six sides. This may seem like an obvious thing , but some-

times the photos may not be showing the whole motif, and a number can help orient

you in where things are. If the number is black, it means that the photo is taken withthe RIGHT (as opposed to wrong) side of the motif showing / facing you.




Page 9

Red Numbers: Red numbers show what the motif is in the same way as the black

numbers (see above), EXCEPT, that they indicate the WRONG side of the motif (as

opposed to the right side). Sometimes in photos you will be facing the wrong side be-

cause the work has curled or assumed a non-at shape…again, this is to help you with

orientation and the placement of the motifs.

ONE BIG THING TO REMEMBER: When you JAYG, you will ALWAYS be facing the

RIGHT (as opposed to wrong) side of the motif you ARE JOINING TO! Read the tips

section again at the beginning of the pattern if you need to for further clarication on

this

Black Lines: The black lines are used to show where the joining sides lie after a

motif has been joined. It helps you to orient the work and the motifs visually, as the ar-chitecture of the work may look dierent once the motif has been joined as compared

to the how the “unjoined” area looks.

Black lines may also be used to show “un-joined” sides of a motif.

In some of the photos I have placed a paper card behind the work for clarity’s sake…

this lessens the distraction from the parts of the work that are not relevant to the cur-

rent instructions.




Page 10

African Flower Hexagon Crochet Motif Instructions

Round 1: Ch5 and join with slip stitch to form a ring. Ch3 (counts as rst dc), 1 dc in ring, ch1. Then, make * 2 dc

in ring, ch1 *. Repeat from * to * 4 times more, slip stitch join to third chain of beginning “ch3” of the round. Cut

yarn and pull through. (6 sets of 2dc’s separated by chain stitches).

Round 2: Join next color in the ch1 space (just to the right of the previous round’s ch3 beginning) and ch3

(counts as rst dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space).Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain

space. Repeat this in each of the next 4 chain spaces. Join with slip stitch to third chain of beginning “ch3” of the

round. (6 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc] )

Round 3: Continue with the same colour. Slip stitch into the chain space in the middle of the rst cluster of the

previous round. Ch3 (counts as rst dc). Make 6 dc in same chain space (total of 7 dc’s). Make 7 dc’s into the

chain space of the next cluster. Repeat 4 more times, so that each cluster has 7 dc’s in its chain space. Join

with slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning “ch3” of the round. Cut yarn and pull through. (6 sets of 7

dc’s).

Round 4: Join new colour in the slip stitch of previous round’s end, and ch1 (counts as a sc). Make one sc intoeach of the dc’s of the cluster (this makes 7 sc including the ch1). Make one long dc (between clusters) that

extends down into round 2 of the ower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters. * Sc into each of the 7 dc

stitches of the next cluster. Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the ower,

so that it separates the round 2 clusters. * Repeat from* to * four more times. Slip stitch to the beginning of the

round “ch1” stitch. Cut yarn and pull through. (42 sc and 6 long dc)

Round 5: Join next colour to the slip stitch at the end of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as rst dc). Make one

dc into each of the next 2 sc’s, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the “apex” of the ower petal). Then

make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round’s “long dc” stitch. * Make one

dc into each of the next petal’s rst three sc stitches, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the “apex”

of the petal), then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round’s long dc

stitch. * Repeat from * to * four more times. Slip stitch to the third chain of the “ch3” of the beginning of the

round. Cut yarn and pull through. (You should have nine “dc” stitches between each petal apex, separated by a

chain stitch, so 54 dc in all).




Page 11

African Flower Pentagon Crochet Motif Instructions



yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (5 sets of 2dc’s separated by chain stitches).

Round 2: Join next color in the ch1 space (just to the right of the previous round’s ch3 beginning) and ch3(counts as rst dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space).

Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain

space. Repeat this in each of the next 3 chain spaces. Join with slip stitch to third chain of beginning “ch3” of the

round. (5 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc] )

Round 3: Continue with the same color. Slip stitch into the chain space in the middle of the rst cluster of the


chain space of the next cluster. Repeat 3 more times, so that each cluster has 7 dc’s in its chain space. Join with

slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning “ch3”. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (5 sets of 7 dc’s).

Round 4: Join new colour in the slip stitch of previous round’s end, and ch1 (counts as a sc). Make one sc into

each of the dc’s of the cluster (this makes 7 sc including the ch1). Make one long dc (between clusters) that



so that it separates the round 2 clusters. * Repeat from* to * three more times. Slip stitch to the beginning of

the round “ch1” stitch. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (35 sc and 5 long dc)






stitch. * . Repeat from * to * three more times. Slip stitch to the third chain of the “ch3” of the beginning of the

round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (You should have nine “dc” stitches between each petal apex,

separated by a chain stitch, so 45 dc in all).




Page 12

African Flower Heptagon Crochet Motif Instructions



yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (7 sets of 2dc’s separated by chain stitches).

Round 2: Join next color in the ch1 space (just to the right of the previous round’s ch3 beginning) and ch3

(counts as rst dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space).Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain

space. Repeat this in each of the next 5 chain spaces. Join with a slip stitch to third chain of beginning “ch3” of

the round. (7 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc] )



chain space of the next cluster. Repeat 5 more times, so that each cluster has 7 dc’s in its chain space. Join

with slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning “ch3” of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (7

sets of 7 dc’s).





so that it separates the round 2 clusters. * Repeat from* to * ve more times. Slip stitch to the beginning of the

round “ch1” stitch. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (49 sc and 7 long dc)




dc into each of the next petal’s rst three sc stitches, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the “apex”of the petal), then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round’s long

dc stitch. * Repeat from * to * ve more times. Slip stitch to the third chain of the “ch3” of the beginning of the

round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (You should have nine “dc” stitches between each petal apex,

separated by a chain stitch, so 63 dc in all).




Page 13

African Flower Square Crochet Motif Instructions

NOTE: There are two square motifs used in the making of Gobi. You can use one or more colors, whatever

appeals to you. I have drafted the chart so that each round is a dierent color, making it easier to read as

well as indicating where you can change colors, if desired.

The square has only 4 rounds instead of 5. If you are using the JAYG method, make the square only up to

round 3 before starting the JAYG, which creates Round 4 (the nal round).

Round 1: Ch5 and join with a slip stitch to make a ring. Ch3 (counts as rst dc), then make 1dc into the ring, ch1.

Make * 4 dc into ring, ch1. * Repeat from * to * twice more. Make 2 dc into ring and join with a slip stitch to the

third chain of the “ch3” of the beginning of the round. (4 sets of 4dc’s separated by chain stitches)

Round 2: If you choose, you can join a new color yarn. Ch3 into a chain space of Round 1. If you choose not to

change colors, rst slip stitch into the next along chain space, then Ch3 (counts as rst dc). Make 7 dc into thissame chain space. Make 8dc’s into each of the three remaining chain spaces of Round 1. Join with a slip stitch

to the third chain of the “Ch3” beginning of Round 1. (4 clusters of 8 dc’s)

Round 3: Join a new color if you wish. Ch1 into the slip stitch of the previous round. Sc into each of the seven

dc’s of this cluster. Sc into each of the 8 dc’s of the next cluster. Repeat for the remaining two clusters. Join with

a slip stitch to the ch1 at the beginning of the round. (4 sets of 8 sc’s)

Round 4: Join a new color yarn to the slip stitch of round 3. Ch3 (counts as rst dc). Make a dc into each of the

next four sc stitches.Ch1, then * make a dc into the same sc space as the previous dc. Make a dc into each

of the next eight sc’s from Round 3. Ch1. * Repeat from * to * two times more. Make a dc into the same sc

space as the previous dc . Make a dc into each of the next three sc stitches of Round 3. Join with a slip stitch to

the third chain of the “ch3” at the beginning of the round. (4 sets of 9 dc’s separated by 4 chain stitches, ie four

“9dc repeats”)




Page 14

African Flower Triangle Crochet Motif Instructions

Round 1: Chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Ch3 (counts as rst dc). Then make a dc into the ring.

Ch1. Make 2dc into the ring. Ch1. Make 2 dc into the ring. Ch1. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain of the “Ch3”

at the beginning of the round. (3 sets of 2 dc’s separated by chain stitches). Cut yarn and pull through.

Round 2: Join the next color in a ch1 space. Ch3 (counts as rst dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then

ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space). Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make

the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain space. Repeat this in the next (and last) chain space… Join with a slip

stitch to third chain of beginning “ch3” of the round. (3 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc] )



chain space of the next cluster. Repeat once more in the last cluster, so that each cluster has 7 dc’s in its chain

space. Join with slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning “ch3” of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leav-

ing a tail. (3 sets of 7 dc’s).





so that it separates the round 2 clusters. * Repeat from* to * once more. Slip stitch to the beginning of the round

“ch1” stitch. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (21 sc and 3 long dc).






stitch. * Repeat from * to * once more. Slip stitch to the third chain of the “ch3” of the beginning of the round. Cut

yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (You should have nine “dc” stitches between each petal apex, separated bya chain stitch, so 27 dc in all).




Page 15

:: Making the Legs and Belly ::You’ll start by making all four of Gobi’s legs. Each leg is made up of two pentagons and two

hexagons. First we’ll join the pentagons to each other and then add the hexagons.

Complete a pentagon up to round 5. Take a second pentagon that has been made up to

Round 4 and join it to the completed pentagon along THREE SIDES as shown on the left be -

low. In the photo below right, you can see the three joined sides.

The two pentagons form

a little “pocket” when

opened up.

Open up the pocket, so

that you can only see half

of each of the pentagons

(photo far left). Join a hexa-

gon to the “V”-shaped area

between the two pentagons

as shown, along two sides.

Your work should look like

this now (photo left).

Turn the leg over so that you are facing the wrong side of the hexagon (photo above far left).

Next, join a hexagon to the leg, along four sides (photo above middle). Once joined, the leg

should look like this (photo above far right).




Page 16

Make another three legs in the same way (1st photo from the left above). Fold the four legs in such

a way that only half of each of the pentagons can be seen, and one whole hexagon on each leg is

visible (2nd photo above). The next two motifs you join, will form the belly of the camel. First, join apentagon along two sides (3rd photo) as shown. Your work should now look like this (4th photo). The

black lines show the two sides that were joined.

Now join the second pentagon of the belly, in

the following way:

Join the rst side to the other belly penta -

gon, along one side only (photo far left), then

crochet one un-joined side, then join along

two sides (one side is joined to one leg hexa-

gon and the other side is joined to the other

leg hexagon), then nish the remainder of the

round without joining.

Your work now looks like this (photo left).

For the next series of steps we’ll be working only on the Left-hand side of the body.

Using polyester stung, stu each of the legs and place on your work surface, as if Gobi was stand-

ing (photo above far left). Join a hexagon to each of the left-hand side legs, along two sides (middle

photo above), to the “V”-shaped areas between the hexagons.

Once joined, the left hand side of the body should look like this (photo above far right).




Page 17

Next, join a hexagon to the area between the two previously-joined hexagons, as shown above left,

along four sides. Note that the second and third sides are joined to the belly pentagons.

The next step is to join a hexagon to the work, along two sides as shown above left.

The last motif to add on this side of the body, is a hexagon. Join it along three sides as shown above

left. Note that the rst side is joined ot the hexagon you added in the previous step. Your work shouldnow look like this (photo above right).




Page 18

Turn the work so that you are facing the wrong

sides of all the motifs you added in the previous

section.

We’ll be adding motifs in exactly the same wayas previously to this side of the body (the Right-

hand side).

Join a hexagon to each of the

right-hand side legs, along

two sides (photo far left), to

the “V”-shaped areas between

the hexagons.

Once joined, the right hand

side of the body should look

like this (photo left).

Next, join a hexagon to the area

between the two previous-

ly-joined hexagons, as shown

far left, along four sides. Note

that the second and third sides

are joined to the belly penta-

gons.

The next step is to join

a hexagon to the work,

along two sides as

shown far left.

Once joined, your work

should look like this

(photo left).




Page 19

The last motif to add on this side of the body, is a hexagon. Join it along three sides as shown above

left. Note that the rst side is joined to the hexagon you added in the previous step. Your work should

now look like this (photo above right).

In the next series of steps, we’ll be adding motifs from the bum end of Gobi, working our way to the

front of the body.

Turn the work so that you are facing the bum end (photo above far left). Join a pentagon to the bum,

along four sides as shown in the photo above middle. Once joined, the work will look like this (photo

above far right).

Next, join a hexagon to the bum end as shown in the 1st photo above, along ve sides. Once joined,

the work looks like this (2nd photo). Now join a pentagon, along three sides as seen in the 3rd pho -

to above. In the 4th photo, this pentagon has been joined and the black lines show the three joined

sides.




Page 20

Well done! The next series of motifs will be added to the front of the body. There are four motifs left

to add to the body before we start making the neck. Turn the work so that you are facing the front

end of the body. Use the photo below far left for guidance in orientation.

The rst motif to add is a pentagon, which will be joined to the front right-hand side of the body (pho -to above middle), along three sides as shown. Once joined, the work will look like this (photo above

far right).

Turn the work slightly so that you can see a little more of the left-hand side of it (1st photo above).

Join a pentagon as shown above in the middle, along four sides.

Stuffing Now is the time to stu the body partly. Even stung is very important for the nal overall shape of

your camel, and there is an art to it. Start with small tufts of stung, and top up the stung in the

hind legs. Make sure that the legs are equally stued, shape and rmness being considered. Now

add small tufts of stung to the body, again being careful to distribute the stung evenly between

the left and right hand sides of the body. Stu the hump moderately rmly, and evenly. Now continue

to stu the rest of the body, always using small bits of stung and not big handfuls.

This makes it easier to redistribute the stung from the outside using a double pointed needle if

necessary… Make sure to leave enough “room” for you to still be able to crochet the neck and chest

motifs.




Page 21

Next, join a pentagon to the front part of the body, along four sides (1st photo above). Once

joined, the body looks like this (2nd photo).

Lastly, join a heptagon to the front of the body, along ve sides as shown above in the 3rd and

4th photos.

Right! You’re ready to start making the neck.

The rst motif is joined to the area between

the front leg hexagons. Join a hexagon

along two sides to this area (photo far left).

The rst side is joined to the right-hand leg

hexagon and the second side is joined to

the left-hand leg hexagon.

Turn the work so that you are facing the Right-Hand side of the body (photo above far left).

Join a square to the right hand side of the neck area, along three sides (middle photo above).

The rst side is joined to the heptagon, the second side is joined to the hexagon lying above the

right front leg and the last side is joined to the hexagon you added in the previous step. Your workshould look like this now (photo above right).




Page 22

Turn the work to face the Left-Hand side of the neck and body (photo above far left). You’ll join

a square to this side of the neck as you did for the other side. Join the square along three sides

as shown in the photo above middle. Your work should look like this now (photo above far right).

Stu the remainder of the body up to the front of the chest, making sure the front legs are

evenly and symmetrically shaped.

The next step is to join a hexagon to the neck area on the Right-Hand side of the body. Join the

hexagon along two sides as shown above in the middle. The rst side is joined to the square

and the second side is joined to the hexagon between the front legs.

Turn the work so that you are facing the Left-Hand side of the neck and body (photo above

far left). Join a hexagon to this sides of the neck along four sides as seen in the middle above.

The rst and fourth sides are joined to the hexagon you added in the previous step. The sec-

ond side is joined to the hexagon between the front legs. Your work should look like this now

(photo above far right).




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Face the front of the neck (photo above far left). Note the “V”-shaped area between the two

neck hexagons on the lower aspect. Join a heptagon to these two sides as shown in the 2nd

photo above from the left. Once joined, and if you view the heptagon from the underside of the

neck, the completed heptagon looks like this (3rd photo above). Viewed from the top of the

neck, it looks like this (4th photo above).

The second last motif to join is a hexagon. Join this along four sides to the front of the neck, starting

the rst joining side on the heptagon at the left hand side of the neck (photo above far left).

Continue to join the third and fourth sides to the right-hand side of the neck (photo above far right).

The fourth side is joined to the heptagon.

Stu the remainder of the neck and head. There is only one more motif to join, then the body is done.

Face the top of the neck.

Join a hexagon to the top of the neck along

four sides as shown in the photo far left. The

rst side and the fourth sides are joined to

the heptagon you added in the previous step.

Your work should look like this now (photo

left).

Stu the neck from where it attaches to the

body, up until the hexagon/heptagon junc-

tion.




Page 24

Join a triangle to the end of the head, along ALL SIDES. When you have about a half an inch of

joining to do still, carefully stu the nose, making sure not to lose your stitches. Complete the last

bit of JAYG.

Your camel head should now look like this (photo above right).

Well done! Gobi has a body and head!

I have deliberately made funny, cartoon-like ears for Gobi, because, after all, camels are funny-look-

ing creatures!

Requirements: Small amount of yarn in the color of your choice, 1.75 mm hook

Ears (make 2)

R1: Start with a Magic Ring (MR). Make 6 sc into MR

R2: (Do not join round with a slip stitch…crochet in a spiral). Make 2 sc’s in each sc around (12)

R3: *Sc into the rst stitch, then 2 sc in next stitch, rep from * 5 more times (ie, six repeats in total) (18)

R4-9: Sc 18 (one sc into each stitch).

Squash the ear at. Keeping the two bottom edges together, fold ear in half along the bottom edges.Using the yarn tail, sew the edges together. This keeps the ear in a cupped shape.

Use the photos above as a guide for placement of ears. Use the tail of yarn to sew the ears to the

head as seen.

:: Making and Attaching the Ears ::




Page 25

Wind your yarn around the short side of an A5 notebook (or any other small book you might have

lying around) several times. Remove carefully (photo above left). Cut through so that you have

equal lengths of yarn lying together (middle photo above). Take a tapestry needle and thread the

two ends of a length of spare yarn through it. Place the tail yarn bundle through the loop of the

spare yarn (photo above right).

Insert the tapestry needle through two dc stitches at the base of the hexagon above the bum

pentagon (1st photo above from the left). Carefully pull the spare yarn (don’t stab yourself with

the needle!) dragging the tail threads underneath the two dc stitches.

Once all the threads have cleared the two dc stitches, arrange tail threads so that equal lengthslie on either side of the dc stitches (2nd photo above). Separate the tail threads into three little

bundles and plait (3rd photo above). Take spare yarn (same color as the tail), tie a strong knot

around the end of the tail and sew through the tail several times to secure the plait. Make sure

you have sewn through at least 5 or 6 times. Tie a strong knot. Make a little bow. Snip the tail

ends to tidy (4th photo above).

Voila! Tail done :)

:: Making and Attaching the Tail ::




Page 26

:: Sculpting the eye sockets and attaching the eyes ::The single best bit of advice that I can give you in making this little camel, is to take the time to

sculpt the eye sockets…it really is easy and quick to do and adds a realistic look to Gobi’s face that

triples the cuteness factor!

Take a length of yarn around a meter long (around a yard) and fold in half so that the two ends areplaced together (1st photo above). Thread these two ends into the eye of a long tapestry needle or doll

making needle. Insert the needle at the left eye area (2nd photo above) and push the needle all the

way through the head, exiting at the right eye area (3rd photo). Pull the yarn through the head, leaving

a small loop at the left eye as seen in the 4th photo above. Now re-insert the needle into the right eye

area (5th photo above) just next to where your needle exited, and push across the head back to the left

eye area, again exiting slightly adjacent to where you initially inserted the needle, putting the needle

through the yarn loop (5th photo above).

Pull up the yarn gently, and you will see the eye sockets indent (1st photo above). Don’t pull too hard

or the eyes will be placed too close together.

Thread the needle through the wire loop of the glass eye. Re-insert the needle into the centre of the

left eye area and push through the head to the right eye centre (2nd photo above). Before you pull

the yarn all the way through, use pointed nose pliers to pinch the wire loop narrower (this allows it to

be pulled into the head more easily). Give a gentle tug on the yarn to “sink” the eye into the head.

Repeat the process for the right eye…thread the needle and yarn through the right eye wire loop,

re-insert the needle into the same hole that the needle exited from, and again, pinch the wire loop

narrower (4th photo above), and push the needle all the way to the left eye, exiting under the left eye,

just to the side of where the wire loop sits. Give a gentle tug on the yarn and see the right eye “sink”

into the head. Make a triple stitch under the left eye to anchor the yarn and snip. The eyes are done!




Page 27

:: APPENDIX : JOINING TUTORIALS ::JOINING TWO MOTIFS ON ONE SIDE

NOTE: Slip stitches are made into the space BETWEEN the dc stitches of the motif you are joining

to, NOT into the actual dc stitch!

“Join Motif “

Now slip stitch join to the space (3) on the

opposite motif, which lies right next to where

you slip stitch joined before. Make the next

dc (4, pink) as you usually would on the “join

motif”. Continue in this manner, alternating be-

tween slip stitch joining to the opposite motif

and crocheting a stitch on the “join motif” The

numbers will guide you step wise.

When you join a motif stitch for stitch, to

another motif on one side only, you need

to start crocheting Round 5 of the “join

motif” at the usual point, which is where

your Ch3 starts the round. Work as usu-

al up until the rst dc of the [dc,ch,dc in

same space] set, and make ONLY the rst

dc of this set. This is the dc in red, with an

asterisk. DO NOT crochet a chain stitch…

instead join to the other motif’s ower

apex chain space (1) using a slip stitch

(shown by a red oval dot). Now crochet a

dc (2, lime green) into the same space on

the “join motif” as the previously made dc

(red*).




Page 28

:: JOINING A MOTIF ON TWO OR MORE SIDES ::

“ MOTIF A ”“ MOTIF B ”

Joining a motif to two other motifs “A” and “B” (which would already be joined to each other), involves

exactly the same process as joining on one side. Proceed as per the instructions for joining on one

side only, up until the point where you have made the rst dc of the second set of [dc,ch,dc] of the

“Join Motif”, (marked 18, red). Now slip stich join into the Motif “A” ower apex chain space (19). Next,

instead of crocheting the green dc (21) on the “Join Motif”, FIRST SLIP STITCH JOIN TO THE ower

apex chain space of “Motif B” (20). Now you crochet the green dc (21) on the “Join Motif”. This means

you have joined on two slip stitch points at a multi-point intersection, making the joins strong and

even. Continue as before joining on the second side (the black numbered steps will guide you).

So what do you do if you have to join a motif to 3 or even 4 sides, meaning you have 3 or 4 ower

apex chain space points all together? Remember the rule…when you get to a ower apex chain spacemulti-point, you slip stitch join INTO EACH OF THEM, from one to the next, to the next and so on,

until you have slip stitch joined ALL OF THEM…then you crochet the second dc of the [dc,ch,dc] set.

Join Motif




:: JOINING A MOTIF TO OTHER MOTIFS ON ALL SIDES ::

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