HOW TO MAKE A TOY CLIMBING ORANGUTAN by Roberto Lou ma

Figure 1 Figure 2

1 introduction This is my own version of a well known ingenious folk toy, which apparently originated in Eastern Europe. The classic version is simply a wooden cutout, usually with human or animal figure and about six inches tall, which climbs up a double cord when pulling down the cord ends alternately, see Figure 1. My version is more sophisticated and also has a human or animal figure, but with an innovative contribution: I have articulated the head, arms, forearms and legs, thus achieving a more interesting and realistic climbing action, Figure 2. By Christmas of 2009, I built several prototypes following this concept, with figures of chimpanzees and orangutans. Videos of these were eventually uploaded to youtube (rlouma channel).

For the present project, I have chosen the figure of an orangutan. To facilitate construction, most components are cut from 3/8” thick solid wood or plywood, and have simple rectangular shapes. Measurements are given in inches, for the reason that in Guatemala, lumber is commercialized and labored in that dimensional. Those accustomed to the metric system must make the appropriate conversions. Figure 3 shows the basic sketch for the project. Figure 4 shows most of the components; a detailed description of each is given in Section 2.

Figure 3 Figure 4

2 DESCRIPTION OF COMPONENTS With reference to Figures 3 and 4: HEAD: one 3/8"x 2¼" x 2½" rectangle. Round off the corners and drill a 5/16” diameter hole, centered one inch above the bottom edge. EARS: two ¼"x 5/8" x 1¼" rectangles. Glue one to each side of the head and round off the free corners.

EYE CIRCLES: two ¼" thick slices of 7/8” dowel. EYES: two ½” diameter wooden plugs. Paint on them black circles by way of eye pupils. Other options: plastic eyes, etc. MUZZLE: half of a 1¾" diameter wooden ball. Make a saw cut to simulate the mouth and two punch marks for nostrils. The ball half may be replaced by a wooden disc of the same diameter and 3/8” thick. ARMS: one 3/8" x 1" x 5½" rectangle. Drill a 5/16” diameter central hole. Drill two 3/16” diameter holes at a distance of one inch from the ends and with an inclination of 60º as shown in Figure 7, for the climbing cord. Drill 3/32” diameter pilot holes at 3/8" from the ends, for the #6 x ¾” screws that articulate arms to forearms. FOREARMS: two 3/8"x 7/8" x 3¾" rectangles. Drill in each forearm one hole 3/16"diameter at half inch from one end, for the screws that articulate them to the arms. HANDS: two 3/8" x 1" x 11/8" rectangles. Drill to each hand a 3/16" diameter hole at 3/8" from one end for the passage of the climbing cord, as shown in Figure 7. ARMS AND HEAD PIVOT: one 1¾” length of 5/16" diameter dowel. It is glued to the back of the head and articulates the head and arms to the torso. BODY: two 3/8" x 3" x 4½” rectangles. Drill 21/64" diameter holes centered at a distance of half an inch from the top and bottom edges. BODY SPACER: one 7/16"x 1¼" x 1¼" square. LEGS: two 3/8"x 1" x 2" rectangles. Optionally, bevel the lower ends 45º, to give inclination to the feet. LEGS SPACER: one 3/8"x 1 x 2" rectangle. Drill a central 5/16” hole for the legs pivot. FEET: two 3/8"x 1¼" x 1½" rectangles. LEGS PIVOT: one 1¼” length of 5/16" diameter dowel.

3 FITTING COMPONENTS TOGETHER HEAD: glue the ears to the sides of the head. The features are modeled by gluing the muzzle, eyes circles and eyes as shown in Figures 5. Then glue the pivot into the hole in the back of the head.

Figure 5 Figure 6 BODY: glue the spacer on the exact center of one of the two main parts of the torso, see Figure 6. Glue the other piece on top, making sure that both are perfectly aligned. Check the alignment by inserting the pivots in the corresponding holes. The pivots must be able to rotate freely. UPPER LIMBS: glue the hands to the forearms, as shown in Figure 7. Attach forearms to the ends of the arms with No.6 x 3/4" screws led by the pilot holes, Figure 8. The forearms should be able to rotate freely.

Figure 7 Figure 8

LOWER LIMBS: glue the legs to the spacer and then glue the feet to the lower ends thereof, see Figure 5.

4 FINAL ASSEMBLY OF THE ORANGUTAN To complete the assembly of the orangutan, place the arms in the space between the two body pieces, matching the holes and inserting the head pivot through them, thus unifying the movement of the head and arms. Do likewise with the legs. See Figure 9. The pivots should be able to rotate freely in the body holes and have a press fit in the central holes of the arms and of the legs spacer respectively. Figure 10 shows the completed orangutan. Optionally, paint the orangutan, see Figure 15.

Figure 9 Figure 10

5 CLIMBING CORD Materials, see Figure 11:

A wooden piece 3/8” x ¾” x 6” with five 3/16” holes: one centered, two at ½” from the ends and two in between. This is the toggle bar. Nine feet of 1/8" diameter synthetic fiber cord, such as nylon or polypropylene. Two large wooden beads to serve as handles. A screw hook to hang the toy.

Fold the cord in half and insert the fold through the center hole of the toggle bar, so it extends in a loop of about three inches, see Figure 12. Then thread the cord through the other holes as shown Figure 13, also through the holes in the hands and arms of the orangutan, and through the beads. Tie a knot at each end of the cord and another knot seven inches above, see Figure 14.

Figure 11 Figure 12 Figure 13

Figure 14 Figure 15

6 OPERATION Install the screw hook in the ceiling, the lintel of a door, the branch of a tree or other suitable place, and hang the orangutan by the cord loop. Now, pull down the handles alternately while keeping the cord moderately taut and the orangutan will climb. To bring him down, simply loosen the tension on the cord.

7 ENDNOTE This toy is an original idea and design of the author. Free use of the presented material is permitted, provided due credit is given. Roberto Lou Ma Guatemala, Mayo de 2013

Climbers of different design: the figure shows a bear and a koala, in

addition to several monkeys