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Huhn Solutions ns300L repair kit, Ed Yuhaus aka Haze (Haze is his user name here on the forums) Here are some pointers for those who will embark upon this repair by themselves. It is possible. You must have experience with tools in general and have a mechanical mind. You need: Drill, ns300l repair kit, time, money (under a grand very very easily possible, and a garage would be a blessing, because I did mine in the middle of winter season in front driveway. elements upon exposed engine block etc… PLUS THE SATISFACTION OF ACTUALLY STARTING THE RESTORED ENGINE AND WATCHING YOUR EFFORTS ACTUALLY WORK and knowing that the RESTORATION WAS EFFECTIVE IS a blessing. My engine is running stroooong! Its been two years since this “camry head surgery" I still want toyota to take responsibility of this event. It costed me money time and stress. Lets get together and do something! contact me. [email protected]. we need someone that has legal insight and knowledge to lead this. GBGL (God bless good luck lol!) • To think about ◦ What is best fluid for aluminum? ▪ Used moly dee form Jim hauser ◦ Do you want to replace valve seals? ▪ Couldnt do it sorry ◦ Questions about procedure ▪ pg. 6 section 5.

Huhn Solutions repair kit, 2004 toyota camry head bolt failure,

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these are just notes regarding the repair and tips on how to make your experience better. THERE ARE AN INSANE AMOUNT OF EXACT SAME CASES. DID TOYOTA EVER TAKE RESPONSIBILITY AND TAKE CARE OF THE OWNERS WHO WENT THROUGH THIS CRAP?? ID LIKE SOME COMPENSATION.ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO THIS IS WHAT I DID TO FIX THE "PULLED THREADS" OF THE 2AZFE ALUMINUM ENGINE BLOCK HEAD BOLT HOLES. THE CATASTROPHIC FAILURE ALMOST ALWAYS HAPPENS AT AROUND 100K. THIS ENGINE USES A PLASTIC INTAKE MANIFOLD. IN AN ATTEMPT TO INSULATE AND PROTECT THE PLASTIC INTAKE MANIFOLD FROM MELTING, DUE TO THE HEAT PRODUCED BY THE ALUMINUM 2AZFE ENGINE BLOCK, TOYOTA MADE A VERY BAD DECISION TO USE A THICK FOAM RUBBER INSULATOR THAT WAS SQUEEZE FITTED IN POSITION AND MADE LARGE TOUCHING CONTACT TO ENGINE BLOCK. THIS AREA OF THE ENGINE BLOCK WHICH IS MADE FROM ALUMINUM COULD NOT COOL ITSELF LIKE THE REST OF THE BLOCK AND AFTER SO MANY ENGINE CYCLES THIS AREA OF THE BLOCK BECAME OVERHEATED AND WEAKENED. THE HEAD BOLT HOLES IN THIS AREA EVENTUALLY BECOME BRITTLE AND THEN FAIL TO HOLD THE TORQUE SEQUENCE OF THE HEADBOLTS, WHICH ARE SQUEEZING THE HEADGASKET NICE AND TIGHT AND HOLDING EVERYTHING TOGETHER. THE USUALLY 3, NOW COMPROMISED AND FAILED HEAD BOLT HOLES CANNOT PROVIDE THE HOLD REQUIRED TO KEEP THE HEAD GASKET AND EVERYTHING ELSE IN PROPER RUNNING ORDER. AND ON AND ON AND ON. SYMPTOMS- VERY FAINT BUT NOTICEABLE GURGLING, RUSHING WATER NOISE DURING STARTUP ENGINE WARMING AND WHEN PRESSING THROTTLE GAS PEDAL. (MINE SOUNDED LIKE RUSTLING MOVING LEAVES BEING WOOSHED AROUND UNDER THE ENGINE AS I PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL DURING STARTUP OF MY ENGINE......)ALSO THE VERY TALE TELL SIGN OF COOLANT LOSS WITHOUT ANY INDICATORS SHOWING WHERE THE COOLANT LOSS IS TAKING PLACE. IN OTHER WORDS, YOU LOSING CURRENT BUT AFTER TRYING TO FIND A DRIP, YOU JUST DONT EVER FIND ONE. BUT YOU LOSING COOLANT!GUESS WHERE THE COOLANT IS LEAKING/GOING? THAT FOAM RUBBER INSULATOR IS ACTING AS A SPONGE AND IS ABSORBING YOU SLOW COOLANT LEAK, WHICH IS OCCURRING RIGHT WHERE THE OVERHEATED HEAD BOLT HOLES ARE LOCATED, LEAKING PAST THE FAILED HEADGASKET INTERFACE!TOYOTA, IM STARTING TO HAVE FLASHBACKS AND AM STARTING TO GET UPSET AND STRESSED OUT AGAIN. I BETTER GO. TOYOTA, YOU BETTER PAY ME BACK FOR THIS REPAIR OR SOMETHING!

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Huhn Solutions ns300L repair kit, Ed Yuhaus aka Haze (Haze is his user name here on the forums)Here are some pointers for those who will embark upon this repair by themselves. It is possible. You must have experience with tools in general and have a mechanical mind.You need: Drill, ns300l repair kit, time, money (under a grand very very easily possible, and a garage would be a blessing, because I did mine in the middle of winter season in front driveway. elements upon exposed engine block etc PLUS THE SATISFACTION OF ACTUALLY STARTING THE RESTORED ENGINE AND WATCHING YOUR EFFORTS ACTUALLY WORK and knowing that the RESTORATION WAS EFFECTIVE IS a blessing.My engine is running stroooong! Its been two years since this camry head surgery"I still want toyota to take responsibility of this event. It costed me money time and stress. Lets get together and do something! contact me. [email protected]. we need someone that has legal insight and knowledge to lead this.GBGL (God bless good luck lol!) To think about What is best fluid for aluminum? Used moly dee form Jim hauser Do you want to replace valve seals? Couldnt do it sorry Questions about procedure pg. 6 section 5. Can I blow the chips out with tap still inside hole or do I remove tapcompletely? Remove the tap praise God you got that over with. However you reallydidnt pay attention to the instructions about threading to about 3 14 to 3 12 inches deep. Maybe because youtube video guy was all about the welded extension? Do I keep the foam rubber INSULATOR which is one of the components that led to this failure, or not? yes To purchase HEAD BOLTS Contact cleaner Harbor freight Blowgun with long nozzle. Ask Huhn if the drill bit bushing is supposed to be protruding.- COOLANT- HEAD GASKET INSERTSAir ratchet.Smaller torque wrench.E5 socket set pitts item # 68017 $7.99 Oil separatorregulatorwheel puller 12.99air hoseDRY ERASE BOARD MARKERSSHARPIE PAINT MARKER SILVER AND RED GOLD To do Ask Hauser for a tap wrench. Ask Hauser if I need to lubricate aluminum for drilling or tapping. If I can avoid fluid during tapping I can avoid having to clean out hole with brake cleaner? Ask Hauser how a bottom tap works.GO AHEAD AND NOTE DOWN ALL THE BOLT TORQUES FOR FASTERREASSEMBLY.Note to anyone trying this- cover the entire engine area like wires and everything around the block when drilling and tapping. Tapping fluid and wd40 got everywhere and I had to clean up the engine hood and other areas that could have easily been covered first, prior to tapping with the molly d and wd 40!!!! I suggest this for the main engine area. Take a bed sheet, cut out a tight rectangular opening somewhere around the center of bed sheet. This opening will go over the engine block and whatever else is connected and IT SHOULD BE TIGHT..- THIS bed sheet will then be opened and secured or taped spread out, so that everything in that engine bay is covered by the bed sheet, with only the engine block exposed (via the opening you made in the middle somewhere.)- This simple drop cloth will totally be a wise thing to do because when you start tapping the head, you will be using moly d and wd40 to lubricate the tap and to spray out the ships that will accumulate during the hole tapping procedure. It took me about an hour and 20 minutes for each hole, drilling it with jig, and tapping and and cleaning hole. IT TOOK ME 1 HR AND 20 MINUTES, NO BREAK, DRILLING AND TAPPING , FOR EACH HOLE!!! THEN U STILL HAVE TO LOCTITE AND INSERT THE INSERT AT A SPECIFIED DEPTH! CONSISTS OF applying high temp loctite with paintbrush into newly threaded hole and getting the steel threaded inserts to slowly travel and find its new home at the bottom of your newly threaded hole!!! I think an hour, IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN AN HOUR JUST TO DRILL AND THREAD HOLE, NOT INCLUDING LOCTITING THE INSERT. I CANT REMEMBER RIGHT NOW BUT ANYWAYS. - I didnt use a bed sheet and wish I did. tapping fluid and grease from wd40 and metal chips were BLOWN OUT OF HOLES AND WERE thrown all over the place and I had to clean everything up!! A bed sheet would have cAught most of this mess, but I seriously thought that it wasnt going to be that much of a mess. But guess what? ITS MESSY! MOLY D IS ESP MESSY!!!!!!! IT TAKES QUITE A LONG TIME TO DO THESE HOLES. PLUS REMEMBER, YOUR DOING TEN HOLES!!! - DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME AROUND AND IN THE END YOULL HAVE SAVED TIME DURING CLEANUP.. - COVER YOUR UNDER HOOD AS WELL OR TAKE OFF THE HOOD ALL TOGETHER DURING THIS REPAIR! THE GREASY SPATTER FROM HAVING TO BLOW OUT THE 10 HOLES FREQUESNTLY DURING THE DRILLING AND TAPPING PROCESS SPLASHES UPWARD AND WILL UGLY YOUR UNDER HOOD.bolt protrusion out of head with washer- 3.936 - usable threads on head bolt- 2.8add 12 to answer1.636 minimum insert depthNorm called and said the he would set the insert at a depth of 1.5 to 1.75 and be done with it, compared to my idea of setting it at 2 depth with a snug fit at the bottom of threads. He said that the loctite will hold it. Norm said that the shallower depth of threads to hold bolt down also resultS in less torque required thats why we do it at 52 ft. lbs.PERHAPS you could HAVE focused better for this procedure DISENGAGED. However, I dont know if you wouldve been motivated to go and do the damn thing, in the cold, 10 holes drilling and tapping that take 1 hr and 20 minutes to do each with no break. YOU WERE CARELESS WITH THINGS. POWER STERING PUMP, INSERT DEPTH, EXTENSION THAT YOU HAD HAUSER MAKE, INSERT THAT WAS STILL IN HOLE WHEN YOU TRIED TO CONTINUE TAPPING IT, IPOD MISPLACED BUT WAS IN JACKET, IPOD CHARGER THAT WAS LEFT AROUND LIKE IT WASNT FRAGILE BUT THE HEADPHONE JACK WAS STEPPED ON AND THE GOT BROKE. WASHING THE CAMRY AND YOU SCRATCHED IT WITH NOZZLE, CLAMPING LIGHT AND YOU DENTED HOOD, TRYING TO REMOVE AND UNDERSTAND WINDSHIELD WIPER REPLACEMENT AND YOU CLOSED OPENED HOOD WHILE SIPERS WERE STILL OUT, ETC ETC. ````FOR THE FORUMHello friends. I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and especially thank Ed Yuhaus aka Haze (Haze is his user name here on the forums) for being so kind as to offer me his Huhn Solutions ns300L repair kit to use to repair my Camry! All I had to do was buy the inserts. Here are some pointers for those who will embark upon this repair by themselves.Use brand new Toyota head bolts (and washers if you desire). This will ensure smooth consistent torquing all around. The old head bolts are stretched and dont torque the same, but maybe they would still work. But just do it right.Understand the insert depth and try to get all the inserts threaded and positioned to that same depth. This includes running the bottom tap to that same depth as well. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO THREAD ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF YOUR HOLE ON THIS ENGINE. I HAVE A 2004 2AZFE.When you drill and tap these holes cover everything around the block with a large old blanket or bed sheet. Just throw the sheet in there and cover your wires, firewall, radiator, and the left and right sides as well. This will keep all debris and spatter from making things worst than they are.I used MOLY D cutting fluid lubricant and it worked so nicely. I highly recommend it. its darkish greenish in color and very sticky but results in an easily tapped and beautifully threaded holeUse Permatex HIGH TEMP threadlocker red fluid, not the gel. Part Number 27200 10ml. bottleDont be bashful on the loctite, get insert threads completely covered. PAY ATTENTION AND don't get it onthe inside of insert.WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR TIMING COVER OFF, DO YOURSELF A FAVOR ANDREPLACE THAT CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SEAL THAT IS ON THE TIMING COVER. IT IS EASY TO DO WITH THE COVER OFF AND IT ONLY COSTS $10.50 AT YOUR TOYOTA DEALERSHIP. Orielly charged me 20 for a seal that didnt look as legit as the toyota ones. Toyota seals have these little lines along the entire inner lip/seal that I believe influence the oil to move away and out of seal as the crankshaft spins. AND plus, THESE LINES ALSO ARE HELPING THE OIL STAY INSIDE OF YOUR TIMING BELT COVER AS WELL!!!!!!!!! I couldnt believe the Toyota part was that much less expensive than________.!!!! $10.50 vs $20. ultra high quality exact match of original component vs branded orielly component that was totally different than original toyota component! (crankshaft oil seal!) THANKYOU JESUS.Take the hood off it would make things easier to work with.