Introduction - Pearson Schools and FE Colleges | Pearson ... · Unit GH17 Colour hair using a ... This Unit applies to both hairdressing and barbering learners at Level 3. ... The

Unit GH17

Colour hair using a variety of techniques

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Introduction This Unit is about combining, adapting and personalising a range of colouring and lightening techniques to achieve a variety of fashion effects in a way that complements a style for men or woman. The use of weaving, slicing and block colouring techniques is required, as is the ability to carry out a full head and regrowth application of lightener. The ability to restore depth and tone, neutralise colour tone and colour resistant hair is also required.

This Unit applies to both hairdressing and barbering learners at Level 3.

The main outcomes of the Unit are:

1 Maintain effective and safe methods of working when colouring and lightening hair. 2 Prepare for colouring and lightening hair. 3 Creatively colour and lighten hair. 4 Lighten hair. 5 Resolve basic colouring problems. 6 Provide aftercare advice.

How are learners assessed? In order to prove competence, learners must demonstrate their skills successfully on at least six separate occasions; one must be a full head application using a lightener or partial head (covering at least 30% of the head), one must be a regrowth application using a lightener, one must be to resolve a basic colouring problem, two must be of creative colouring effects using two or more colours on one head and one must be of creating colouring effects using one lightener and at least one colour on the head.

Any one of the above must include the use of a toner.

Learners must show evidence that they have:

• used all the types of products • questioned clients on all the areas of contra-indication • carried out all the tests • considered all the factors • used all the colouring and lightening effects • used two of the three lightener application techniques • used two of the three colour correction products (however, the learners must prove they

have the necessary knowledge, understanding and skills to be able to perform competently in all areas in the range)

• used all the colour correction techniques • given all the necessary aftercare advice.

Simulation must not be used for any performance evidence within this Unit.

Unit GH17



Overview of resources Resources Notes Links to

Key Skills Links to Functional Skills

Link to Level 3 Student Book

PowerPoint presentations GH17.PP1 Melanin and pheomelanin

This PowerPoint presentation explains the differences between melanin and pheomelanin. It also shows how different natural hair colours are made up. There are questions at the end of the presentation to test the learners’ understanding.

English Level 2 – Reading, Speaking and Listening

pp 148, 150–151

GH17.PP2 The effects of different colouring products on the hair

This PowerPoint presentation describes the effects of different colouring products on the hair.

English Level 2 – Reading

pp 149–151

GH17.PP3 The pH of colouring products

This PowerPoint presentation involves the learners in correctly identifying the pH value of different colouring products.


pp 158–159

GH17.PP4 The colour star

This PowerPoint presentation introduces the colour star as a useful tool when exploring complementary colours and colour correction.


p 160

GH17.PP5 Step-by-step block colour and slicing techniques

Step-by-step photos from the Level 3 Student Book. English Level 2 – Reading

pp 153–154

Unit GH17



Resources Notes Links to Key Skills

Links to Functional Skills


GH17.PP6 Step-by-step weaving and slicing

Step-by-step photos from the Level 3 Student Book. English Level 2 – Reading

pp 155–156

Activity sheets GH17.A1 Health and safety when colouring: crossword

The learners have a crossword to complete that should be revision from Level 2 and relates to salon and legal requirements. An answer sheet is provided for this activity.

English Level 2 – Reading and Writing

pp 145–146

GH17.A2 Working safely and hygienically when colouring hair

Another activity that should be predominantly revision from Level 2. Use in conjunction with GH17.A1 Activity sheet 1. This will highlight any weak areas. An answer sheet is provided for this activity.


pp 145–146

GH17.A3 Mixing and measuring following manufacturer’s instructions

This activity gives the learner information on how to measure hydrogen peroxide. There is then an activity looking at their knowledge of mixing ratios for specific products. The answers will be individual to each manufacturer.

App of Num Level 1

Mathematics Level 1

p 151

GH17.A4 Pre-service testing: case studies

Case studies are given covering the pre-service tests required for this unit. For each the learners are required to give a detailed answer.

Comms Level 2


pp 142–145

Unit GH17






GH17.A5 Problem solving: case studies

These case studies are designed to allow the learners to apply their knowledge of colouring problems, their causes and remedies.

Comms Level 2


pp 159–160, 162

GH17.A6 Advising your client on hair maintenance and management: case studies

These case studies are designed to allow the learners to apply their knowledge of the aftercare advice they should be giving to the client after a colouring service. It may also help to remind them what advice they should be giving!

Comms Level 2


pp 163–164

GH17.A7 Working with hydrogen peroxide

This activity starts by explaining the purpose of hydrogen peroxide in relation to the colouring service and how it works. There is then an example of diluting hydrogen peroxide, followed by some calculations for the learners to complete. An answer sheet is provided for this activity.

App of Num Level 1

Mathematics Level 1

pp 151

GH17.A8 Why the factors in the range will affect the choice of product and / or application techniques

This activity may begin as a group discussion, in small groups, where the learners need to think about how each of the factors will affect the colouring process. They can then complete this linking lines activity to check whether their answers are correct. An answer sheet is provided for this activity.

English Level 2 – Speaking and Listening

pp 143–144

Unit GH17






GH17.A9 Oxidation and lightening hair

This gapped handout covers what oxidation means and also information regarding use of lightening products, e.g. the importance of the correct sequence of application, the problems that can arise from over-lapping etc. An answer sheet is provided for this activity.


pp 150–151, 161

GH17.A10 Contra-indications and how to assess the problem

This linking lines activity requires learners to focus on how they would identify various contraindications. An answer sheet is provided for this activity.


pp 141–142, 146–147

GH17.A11 Pre-lightening and pre-pigmentation: case studies

This activity requires learners to explain the purpose of the lightening curve and how it may be used when pre-lightening hair and pre-pigmenting hair. The learners then have case studies to carry out relating to the above to confirm their understanding of the subject. An answer sheet is provided for this activity.


p 161

GH17.A12 Using colour to emphasise style

There are four examples of hairstyles and the learners have to decide where the focal point of the hairstyle is, and therefore where the colour should be placed, what colours should be used and the method of colouring that would give the desired effect.

Comms Level 2


GH17.A13 Pre-pigmenting hair: an experiment

The learners will need four swatches of hair (pre-lightened to a base 10). They will then pre-pigment three of the swatches with different pre-pigmenting colours using the traditional method. The fourth swatch will be coloured using the correct depth with additional warm tones. They will then compare the results. Use this activity in conjunction with GH17.A11 Activity sheet 11 to clearly illustrate the importance of using the lightening curve to choose the correct undertone to use when pre-pigmenting hair.

English Level 2 – Reading, Speaking and Listening

p 161

Unit GH17






GH17.A14 Role play

The learners will need to work in groups of three. One member of the group will be the client, one the stylist and one an observer with a checklist. The client has a picture that you should provide and that must not be shown to the stylist. The stylist needs to carry out a thorough and effective consultation to find out the exact requirements of the client. The observer should use the checklist to make sure that the stylist is covering all the necessary points (the stylist should see the checklist before the role play so they know what will be checked for).

English Level 2 – Speaking and Listening

p 141

GH17.A15 The effects of light and artificial lighting on the appearance of hair colour

The learners should read the information given very carefully. They should then answer the questions to check their understanding.


Fact sheet GH17.F1 Colouring resistant hair

This fact sheet looks at why resistant hair is resistant and how to pre-soften it in order to ensure a good result.


p 160

Additional resource Interactive knowledge check

Interactive quiz covering learning from Unit GH17 for revision purposes, designed to be completed individually by learners (e.g. via a VLE).

pp 139–167

Unit GH17



Scheme of work Sessions* Learning Outcomes Activities and resources Links to

Key Skills

1

Introduce the Unit with salon and legal requirements and how to work safely, effectively and hygienically when colouring hair.

GH17.A1 Activity sheet 1: Health and safety when colouring: crossword

Comms Level 2

Use question and answer to test the learners’ knowledge, then use the crossword and gapped handout to assess. This should be revision from Level 2

GH17.A2 Activity sheet 2: Working safely and hygienically when colouring hair

Recap pre-service testing then use the activity to allow the learners to apply their knowledge in a range of different circumstances.

GH17.A4 Activity sheet 4: Pre-service testing: case studies

2

Introduce colour. Use the PowerPoint presentation to explain the different types of colouring products and their effects on the hair shaft.

GH17.PP2 PowerPoint 2: The effects of different colouring products on the hair.

Comms Level 2

Look at the range of questions that should be asked to ensure a thorough consultation, and then ask the learners to role play.

GH17.A14 Activity sheet 14: Role play

Discuss the kinds of contra-indications of which the learners should be aware. Use the activity to check their understanding.

GH17.A10 Activity sheet 10: Contra-indications and how to assess the problem

Discuss the importance of colour placement and what constitutes the focal point of a hairstyle. Using the four pictures (or you may choose you own), the learners need to decide where the focal point of the style is, then where to place the colour, what colour to use and which technique they would use.

GH17.A12 Activity sheet 12 : Using colour to emphasise style

Unit GH17



Sessions* Learning Outcomes Activities and resources Links to Key Skills

3

Use the PowerPoint to discuss melanin and pheomelanin and how they make up the natural colour of the hair. There are questions at the end to ensure the learners understand.

GH17.PP1 PowerPoint 1: Melanin and pheomelanin

Comms Level 2

Carry out this activity as an experiment if you have access to white lights and coloured filters. There are questions at the end of the activity to check the learners understanding.

GH17.A15 Activity sheet 15: The effects of light and artificial lighting on the appearance of hair colour

Discuss in small groups how each of the factors affects the colouring service. Then use the activity to check the learners’ understanding.

GH17.A8 Activity sheet 8: Why the factors in the range will affect the choice of product or application technique

Discuss hydrogen peroxide, how it’s made up and its uses. Go through the example of diluting hydrogen peroxide, and then ask the learners to complete the diluting task.

GH17.A7 Activity sheet 7: Working with hydrogen peroxide

Discuss the different colouring products used in the learners’ centre and their mixing ratios. Give the important information about hydrogen peroxide preparations. There are some questions for the learners to answer regarding mixing ratios (these will be specific to the product range used in your centre).

GH17.A3 Activity sheet 3: Mixing and measuring following manufacturer’s instructions

Unit GH17




4

Discuss the reasons for pre-lightening hair, and then discuss the uses of the lightening curve. Then explain how the lightening curve can be used to determine the correct undertones when pre-pigmenting.

GH17.A11 Activity sheet 11: Pre-lightening and pre-pigmentation: case studies

Comms Level 2

Use this practical activity to show the results of pre-pigmenting using red, copper and gold, so the learners can compare the results. They will also need to colour a hair sample by adding the additional warmth to the desired shade (1 step re-colouring).

GH17.A13 Activity sheet 13: Pre-pigmenting hair: an experiment. Use in conjunction with activity 11.

Use the PowerPoint presentation to explain primary and secondary colours and how complimentary colours can be used to neutralise unwanted tone.

GH17.PP4 PowerPoint 4: The colour star

Use this gapped handout as a whole class activity discussed throughout or as an individual activity, depending on the learners’ ability.

GH17.A9 Activity sheet 9: Oxidation and lightening hair

Use this fact sheet to give the necessary information on what makes hair resistant and how to pre-soften resistant hair.

GH17.F1 Fact sheet 1: Colouring resistant hair

5

Carry out pH testing of the range of colouring products used in the centre and record their results. Use this PowerPoint presentation to consolidate their results.

GH17.PP3 PowerPoint 3: The pH of colouring products

Comms Level 2 Use these case studies to get the learners to use their

knowledge of colour to determine why the problems have occurred and how to remedy them. The last scenario would need to be referred to a colour specialist for a colour correction service

GH17.A5 Activity sheet 5: Problem solving: case studies

Unit GH17




6 Make the learners think about the advice they should be giving to clients in a variety of contexts to ensure their colouring skills are maximised.

GH17.A6 Activity sheet 6: Advising your client on hair maintenance and management: case studies

* NB 1 session = 2 hours

Unit GH17



GH17.A1 Activity sheet 1 Health and safety when colouring: crossword To complete the following crossword, answer the clues about salon and legal requirements to help you work safely and hygienically when colouring hair.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

Unit GH17



Across

2 It's important to check all electrical equipment before use to ensure it's _ _ _ _ to use. (4)

7 You must be compliant with this legislation when completing your client record cards. (4, 10, 3)

10 You should be standing with your feet shoulder’s width apart with your back straight to avoid this. (6)

12 Poor personal hygiene will cause _ _ _ _ _ _ _ to your clients. (7)

13 Your clients should wear one of these to protect their clothes. (4)

14 If you are mixing powder bleach that isn't of the 'dust free' variety, you should be wearing one of these. (4)

15 You should be wearing one of these to protect your clothes when working with colouring and lightening products. (5)

16 Scissors and other metal tools should be sterilised in one of these. (9)

Down

1 Wearing gloves when working with colour will help to prevent this. (10)

3 When questioning your clients about contra-indications, you should record their responses in case of _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _. (5, 6)

4 If you find any faulty electrical equipment you must label it as faulty, remove from use and report to the relevant person under this piece of legislation. (11, 2, 4, 3)

5 If your tools and equipment are close to hand, it will enable you to work in this way. (11)

6 This should be good when you are mixing and applying colouring products to prevent respiratory problems. (11)

8 You should always be complying with health and safely, as this will promote a _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _. (12, 5)

9 Your tools and equipment should be sterilised to prevent this. (5, 9)

11 This piece of legislation relates to the way you store, handle, use and dispose of colouring and lightening products. (1, 1, 1, 1, 1)

Unit GH17



GH17.A1 Activity sheet 1 – solution Health and safety when colouring: crossword To complete the following crossword, answer the clues about salon and legal requirements to help you work safely and hygienically when colouring hair.

1

D

2

S

A

F

E

3

L

R 4

E 5

E

E

M

L

F 6

V

G

A

E

F

E 7

D

A

T

A 8

P

R

O

T

E

C

T

I

O

N

A 9

C

T

L

R

I

T

C

T

R

A

O

T

R

I

I

O

C

F

I

I

E

L

S

T

E

S

C

N

A

S

I

S

I

T

T

I

O

S

T

L

I

N

N 10

I

N

J

U

R

Y

Y

O

F 11

C

O

A

N

E 12

O

F

F

E

N

C

E

T

C

S

A

W

T

H

L 13

G

O

W

N

I

H

I

R

O

14

M

A

S

K

K 15

A

P

R

O

N

A

A

G

C

E 16

A

U

T

O

C

L

A

V

E

Unit GH17



GH17.A2 Activity sheet 2 Working safely and hygienically when colouring hair The following gapped handout relates to salon and legal requirements for working safely and hygienically when colouring hair. The missing words are in the box below.

continued

respiratory system prepared

ventilated skin test gown

towel plastic cape

dermatitis

recorded

autoclave

Personal Protective Equipment at Work

gloves hair condition

action hands chemical

legal

jar

cross-infection

Your client should be properly for the colouring or

lightening service. It is essential that the client has had a

24–48 hours prior to each application (although you

should check the manufacturer’s instructions as some may vary). Even if

the client is having a lightener applied, it is most likely that a toner will be

applied afterwards and therefore the skin test is essential.

As a minimum, the client should be wearing a ,

and to ensure

their clothes are fully covered.

It is important that you wear the protective equipment given to you by

your employer, as this ensures they are fulfilling their obligations under

the

regulations.

inhalation professional image

Unit GH17



You, the stylist, should be wearing and an apron to

protect your and clothes. The gloves will help to

prevent . If you are working with powder bleach, you

should wear a mask to prevent of the powder, as this

may cause damage to the tissues of the mouth and nose and also

damage the . Powder bleach should

always be mixed and used in a well area.

Your work area should be set up prior to the service and maintained

throughout as this will promote a . All

your tools and equipment should be cleaned and sterilised prior to every

client to prevent . You should be using the most

appropriate method of sterilising for each specific tool you use. The type

of steriliser you use may be an , a UV cabinet or a

.

Carrying out pre-service tests on your client’s hair means you can make

an informed decision as to whether the

is good enough to continue with the service. This is

good practice and shows you take your health and safety responsibilities

seriously.

You should also remember to question your clients about any

contra-indications they may have had to prior chemical treatments. The

answers to these questions should be on the client

record card for future stylist to refer to and also in case the client takes

!

Unit GH17



GH17.A2 Activity sheet 2 – solution Working safely and hygienically when colouring hair The following gapped handout relates to salon and legal requirements for working safely and hygienically when colouring hair.

continued

respiratory system prepared

ventilated skin test gown

towel plastic cape

dermatitis

recorded

autoclave

Personal Protective Equipment at Work

gloves hair condition

action hands chemical

legal

jar

cross-infection

Your client should be properly for the colouring or

lightening service. It is essential that the client has had a

24–48 hours prior to each application (although you

should check the manufacturer’s instructions as some may vary). Even if

the client is having a lightener applied, it is most likely that a toner will be

applied afterwards and therefore the skin test is essential.

As a minimum, the client should be wearing a ,

and to ensure

their clothes are fully covered.

It is important that you wear the protective equipment given to you by

your employer, as this ensures they are fulfilling their obligations under

the

regulations.

prepared

skin test

towel

gown

plastic cape

Personal Protective Equipment

at Work

inhalation professional image

Unit GH17



You, the stylist, should be wearing and an apron to

protect your and clothes. The gloves will help to

prevent . If you are working with powder bleach, you

should wear a mask to prevent of the powder, as this

may cause damage to the tissues of the mouth and nose and also

damage the . Powder bleach should

always be mixed and used in a well area.

Your work area should be set up prior to the service and maintained

throughout as this will promote a . All

your tools and equipment should be cleaned and sterilised prior to every

client to prevent . You should be using the most

appropriate method of sterilising for each specific tool you use. The type

of steriliser you use may be an , a UV cabinet or a

.

Carrying out pre-service tests on your client’s hair means you can make

an informed decision as to whether the

is good enough to continue with the service. This is

good practice and shows you take your health and safety responsibilities

seriously.

You should also remember to question your clients about any

contra-indications they may have had to prior chemical treatments. The

answers to these questions should be on the client

record card for future stylist to refer to and also in case the client takes

!

gloves

hands

inhalation

dermatitis

respiratory system

recorded

autoclave

ventilated

professional image

cross-infection

chemical jar

hair

condition

legal action

Unit GH17



GH17.A3 Activity sheet 3 Mixing and measuring following manufacturer’s instructions When mixing colours, you must ensure you are following the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure you get the best result.

When measuring hydrogen peroxide, you can either weigh the developer or measure it in a cylinder. If using a cylinder, you must measure at eye level.

You also need a knowledge of mixing ratios. Look at the colouring products that you use in your workplace and read the manufacturer’s instructions. Now work out what ratio of colour to developer is required (how much developer you will need) in the following scenarios.

1 The permanent colour tube is half full. 2 The permanent colour tube is three-quarters full. 3 The permanent colour tube is a quarter full. 4 The quasi-colour tube is half full. 5 The measuring cylinder has 30 mls of powder bleach in it.

Unit GH17



GH17.A4 Activity sheet 4 Pre-service testing: case studies Read each case study and answer the questions below.

Client 1 Client 1 arrived at the salon for a colour correction service; she wanted her highly lightened hair returned to its natural colour. During the consultation you dampened the hair and gently pulled it. The hair stretched but didn’t return to its original length.

1 Why was this test carried out?

2 What do the results of the test tell you about the client’s hair?

3 What information would you record on the client’s record card?

4 How would the results of the test affect the service?

Client 2 Client 2 arrived at the salon for a colour service. She wanted copper panels of colour in her hair and the remainder coloured chocolate brown. When you checked her record card you realised the client hadn’t had a skin test.

1 Should you proceed with the colouring service?

2 State your reasons for the answer you have given to the question above.

Unit GH17



3 How would the results of this test affect the service?

4 What information would you record on the client’s record card?

5 What are the manufacturer’s instructions for the colouring products you use in the salon? If you’re not sure, go and find out. Note your findings below.

Client 3 Client 3 came into the salon for a full head lightening service. She had a skin test several days ago and there was no reaction. During the consultation the client told you that she had recently coloured her hair at home but had no idea what the name of the product was that she had used.

1 What tests would you need to carry out and why?

2 How could the results of each test affect the service?

3 If these tests aren’t carried out, what may happen?

4 What information should be recorded on the client’s record card?

Unit GH17



Client 4 Client 4 arrived at the salon for a colouring service. Her hair was naturally light brown with long layers, and she wanted some lightened panels through. Her hair was naturally curly but she used the straightening irons every day.

1 What tests should you carry out prior to the service?

2 How could the results of each test affect the service?

3 If these tests aren’t carried out, what may happen?

4 What information should be recorded on the client’s record card?

Unit GH17



GH17.A5 Activity sheet 5 Problem solving: case studies This activity sheet investigates some of the types of problems that may occur during colouring and how to remedy them.

For each of the following case studies, decide:

1 What the problem is. 2 What has caused the problem. 3 How it can be remedied.

Write down your answers before checking them with your tutor.

Client 1 Client 1 has come into the salon for panels of blonde to be put into her hair. She wants them to be as light as possible. The client has previous colour in her hair but wants something to add interest. You carry out all the necessary pre-service tests and everything seems fine. You apply the colour and leave it to develop. When the development time is complete, you remove the colour. The hair colour is uneven along the length of the hair. The roots are light and the hair gradually gets darker along the hair shaft.

Problem:

Cause:

Remedy:

Client 2 Client 2 comes into the salon for foil highlights. She just wants to add a bit of interest to her dull hair. She has fine, silky soft hair. You carry out the foiling service and when you are blow-drying the hair you notice bands of colour at the roots area.

Problem:

Unit GH17



Cause:

Remedy:

Client 3 Client 3 has come into the salon for a regrowth colour application using high-lift ash blonde tint and some woven low-lights. When the colour is removed there are areas where the hair is lilac/grey.

Problem:

Cause:

Remedy:

Client 4 Client 4 comes into the salon for highlights. She wants her hair as light as possible, but she’s in a hurry, so wants the quickest option! You carry out highlights using a lightening product (bleach), and then develop it under heat to speed up the process. When you check the development, the hair is almost white and during the removal of the highlights, you realise the hair feels slimy. You carry out an elasticity test and the hair stretches, but doesn’t return to its original length.

Problem:

Unit GH17



Cause:

Remedy:

Client 5 Client 5 is a very trendy, mature client who has come to the salon for a full head colouring service which consists of panels of colour. She has had a combination of reds and a very dark chocolate brown colour. When you remove the colour, you notice that where the dark colour has been the skin still looks dark, and where the red colour was placed the scalp is very red.

Problem:

Cause:

Remedy:

Client 6 Client 6 has come into the salon for a regrowth service. The client has lightened (bleached) hair. You apply the colouring product and leave it to develop. You have referred to the client’s record card to see how long the colour should be developed; when the time is up you remove the colour. It looks slightly darker than usual, but blonde hair often does when wet, so you start to blow-dry the hair. After a few sections you realise the roots are considerably darker than the ends.

Problem:

Unit GH17



Cause:

Remedy:

Client 7 Client 7 comes into the salon for a full head application colouring service. The results of all the pre-service tests are good. During your consultation, you notice the hair around the front hairline is white and ‘twinkly’. You apply the colours to her hair and develop them according to the manufacturer’s instruction. When the development time is complete, you remove the colour and notice the areas around the front hair line haven’t been covered and her white hair is still visible.

Problem:

Cause:

Remedy:

Client 8 Client 8 arrives at the salon complaining that the blonde highlights she’d had yesterday look yellow and not the ‘clean’ blonde she had wanted.

Problem:

Unit GH17



Cause:

Remedy:

Client 9 Client 9 arrives at the salon for a colour correction service. After carrying out all the pre-service tests, you decide her hair is in good enough condition to continue. On closer inspection, you notice her hair has several bands of colour ranging from very dark brown to a warm dark blonde colour. She would like an even overall colour.

Problem:

Cause:

Remedy:

Unit GH17



GH17.A5 Activity sheet 5 – solution Problem solving: case studies This activity sheet investigates some of the types of problems that may occur during colouring and how to remedy them.

For each of the following case studies, decide:

1 What the problem is. 2 What has caused the problem. 3 How it can be remedied.

Write down your answers before checking them with your tutor.

Client 1 Client 1 has come into the salon for panels of blonde to be put into her hair. She wants them to be as light as possible. The client has previous colour in her hair but wants something to add interest. You carry out all the necessary pre-service tests and everything seems fine. You apply the colour and leave it to develop. When the development time is complete, you remove the colour. The hair colour is uneven along the length of the hair. The roots are light and the hair gradually gets darker along the hair shaft.

Problem:

Uneven colour result.

Cause:

Incorrect application technique / colour build-up – should have applied lightener to mid-lengths and

ends first, then roots last.

Remedy:

Re-apply lightening product to mid-lengths and ends (if hair condition allows).

Client 2 Client 2 comes into the salon for foil highlights. She just wants to add a bit of interest to her dull hair. She has fine, silky soft hair. You carry out the foiling service and when you are blow-drying the hair you notice bands of colour at the roots area.

Problem:

Product seepage.

Unit GH17



Cause:

Foils have slipped / product applied incorrectly.

Remedy:

Spot colour using client’s natural base.

Client 3 Client 3 has come into the salon for a regrowth colour application using high-lift ash blonde tint and some woven low-lights. When the colour is removed there are areas where the hair is lilac/grey.

Problem:

Overlapping.

Cause:

Depositing tone onto previously lightened hair.

Remedy:

Spot colour with powder bleach and water to remove the offending tone.

Client 4 Client 4 comes into the salon for highlights. She wants her hair as light as possible, but she’s in a hurry, so wants the quickest option! You carry out highlights using a lightening product (bleach), and then develop it under heat to speed up the process. When you check the development, the hair is almost white and during the removal of the highlights, you realise the hair feels slimy. You carry out an elasticity test and the hair stretches, but doesn’t return to its original length.

Problem:

Hair condition has deteriorated.

Unit GH17



Cause:

Over processed.

Remedy:

Apply deep penetrating / restructuring conditioner.

Client 5 Client 5 is a very trendy, mature client who has come to the salon for a full head colouring service which consists of panels of colour. She has had a combination of reds and a very dark chocolate brown colour. When you remove the colour, you notice that where the dark colour has been the skin still looks dark, and where the red colour was placed the scalp is very red.

Problem:

Skin staining.

Cause:

Poor application; barrier cream wasn’t applied to protect the skin; the incorrect method of colour

removal was used.

Remedy:

Use skin stain remover.

Client 6 Client 6 has come into the salon for a regrowth service. The client has lightened (bleached) hair. You apply the colouring product and leave it to develop. You have referred to the client’s record card to see how long the colour should be developed; when the time is up you remove the colour. It looks slightly darker than usual, but blonde hair often does when wet, so you start to blow-dry the hair. After a few sections you realise the roots are considerably darker than the ends.

Problem:

The colour has been under-processed.

Unit GH17



Cause:

The product wasn’t left on long enough; the wrong strength developer was used.

Remedy:

Test the hair to check its condition, if it’s ok then reapply using the correct strength developer

and make sure it has fully developed before removing.

Client 7 Client 7 comes into the salon for a full head application colouring service. The results of all the pre-service tests are good. During your consultation, you notice the hair around the front hairline is white and ‘twinkly’. You apply the colours to her hair and develop them according to the manufacturer’s instruction. When the development time is complete, you remove the colour and notice the areas around the front hair line haven’t been covered and her white hair is still visible.

Problem:

The hair is resistant to colour as the cuticles are tightly packed. This is easily identified by the

‘twinkly’ white hair.

Cause:

The wrong type of colour or developer was used; the hair wasn’t pre-softened.

Remedy:

Pre-soften the hair prior to the colouring application.

Client 8 Client 8 arrives at the salon complaining that the blonde highlights she’d had yesterday look yellow and not the ‘clean’ blonde she had wanted.

Problem:

Unwanted yellow tones.

Unit GH17



Cause:

Wrong colour choice; not taken natural hair colour into consideration.

Remedy:

Apply a violet/silver toner to ‘clean’ up the blonde.

Remember violet is opposite yellow on the colour star.

Client 9 Client 9 arrives at the salon for a colour correction service. After carrying out all the pre-service tests, you decide her hair is in good enough condition to continue. On closer inspection, you notice her hair has several bands of colour ranging from very dark brown to a warm dark blonde colour. She would like an even overall colour.

Problem:

Banding.

Cause:

Incorrect colour applications and/or colour choices.

Remedy:

Refer to colour technician who specialises in colour correction work as each colour correction will

need to be individually approached!

Unit GH17



GH17.A7 Activity sheet 7 – solution Working with hydrogen peroxide Now answer the following questions about diluting hydrogen peroxide.

1 If you only have 9% hydrogen peroxide in the salon and need 6%, what ratio of hydrogen peroxide to water would you need?

9 = 3 Two parts H2O2 to 1 part water 6 2


12 = 4 One part H2O2 to 3 parts water 3 1

3 If you only have 18% hydrogen peroxide in the salon and you need 12%, what ratio of hydrogen peroxide to water would you need?

18 = 6 = 3 Two parts H2O2 to 1 part water 12 4 2





Unit GH17



GH17.A6 Activity sheet 6 Advising your client on hair maintenance and management: case studies Read each of the following case studies and decide what advice you will give each client relating to how they can maintain and manage their hair. The information should include:

• The correct shampoo and conditioner for home use. • The importance of following the manufacturer’s instructions. • How their lifestyle can affect the durability of the colour. • How to avoid colour fade. • The effects of heated styling equipment on the hair. • When to re-book (how long the service will last before it needs to be re-done). • Any other relevant advice.

Client 1 Client 1 has very porous hair. She has undergone a colour correction service to restore the depth and tone. She wants to try and maintain the colour and condition of her hair, as she finds the colour fades very quickly, especially when she goes on holiday.

What advice should you give her?

Unit GH17



Client 2 Client 2 has short, fine hair. She has had a full head lightening service and toner as this gives her hair the illusion of being thicker! She swims at the local baths every morning before she goes to work.


Client 3 Client 3 has naturally curly hair with high and low lights. She hates her curly hair and consequently straightens it every morning before work. Her hair is very dry and porous even though she has it trimmed every 6 weeks.


Unit GH17



GH17.A7 Activity sheet 7 Working with hydrogen peroxide Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the oxidising agent most commonly used in the hairdressing industry. It is an essential part of the colouring process because bleach (lightening products), permanent and quasi-permanent colours need it to work.

Hydrogen peroxide is a colourless and odourless liquid that looks very like water. The difference is that hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) has an extra atom of oxygen compared with water (H2O). It is because of this extra atom of oxygen that hydrogen peroxide is classed as an unstable substance (one that is easily broken down).

Hydrogen peroxide water + oxygen

(H2O2) (H2O) + (O)

Diluting hydrogen peroxide There may be occasions when the salon may not have the correct strength of oxidant in stock. Diluting hydrogen peroxide with water may readily solve this problem; however, it is only possible to dilute liquid hydrogen peroxide and not cream hydrogen peroxide.

For example, if you have 12% liquid hydrogen peroxide and need 9%:

12 = 4 9 3

The easiest way to calculate this is to look at the top number (in this instance 4) and draw a circle and divide it into that many segments. Then look at the bottom number (in this instance 3) and shade that many of the segments – this tells you how many of them should be hydrogen peroxide. The un-shaded areas indicate the parts of water.

So, looking at the calculation above, the answer would be 3 parts H2O2 to 1 part water.

Unit GH17



Now answer the following questions about diluting hydrogen peroxide.






Unit GH17



GH17.A8 Activity sheet 8 Why the factors in the range will affect the choice of product and/or application techniques Match the correct reason with the correct factor. Then check your answers with your tutor.

Factors How and why they may influence your choice of product and application technique

Temperature

Existing colour of hair

Hair condition

Test results

Strength of hydrogen peroxide

Hair length

Hair density

Hair cut

Percentage of white hair

Skin tone

This will help to determine the type of colouring product used and strength of developer needed to achieve the desired result.

This may affect the time needed to complete the service and the amount of product needed, thus affecting the price of the service.

Chose warm colours for peachy coloured skin and cool colours for pink coloured skin.

This may affect your development times and possibly your method of application.

This will determine the type of colour and strength of developer you use.

These will determine whether the colour service can go ahead.

This may affect the thickness of your weaves or slices. Also the time and cost of the service.

Any colouring service should enhance this.

This will determine how much lift can be obtained and also ensure a good coverage on white hair.

A warm salon may speed up the process whilst a cold salon may slow it down. When doing a full head lightening service it may affect your sequence of application.

Unit GH17



GH17.A8 Activity sheet 8 – solution Why the factors in the range will affect the choice of product and/or application techniques Match the correct reason with the correct factor. Then check your answers with your tutor.

Factors How and why they may influence your choice of product and application technique

Temperature

Existing colour of hair

Hair condition

Test results

Strength of hydrogen peroxide

Hair length

Hair density

Hair cut

Percentage of white hair

Skin tone

This will help to determine the type of colouring product used and strength of developer needed to achieve the desired result.

This may affect the time needed to complete the service and the amount of product needed, thus affecting the price of the service.

Chose warm colours for peachy coloured skin and cool colours for pink coloured skin.

This may affect your development times and possibly your method of application.

This will determine the type of colour and strength of developer you use.

These will determine whether the colour service can go ahead.

This may affect the thickness of your weaves or slices. Also the time and cost of the service.

Any colouring service should enhance this.

This will determine how much lift can be obtained and also ensure a good coverage on white hair.

A warm salon may speed up the process whilst a cold salon may slow it down. When doing a full head lightening service it may affect your sequence of application.

Unit GH17



GH17.A9 Activity sheet 9 Oxidation and lightening hair Fill in the missing words in the gapped text. The words you need are in the box below. On completion, check your answers with your tutor.

continued

root glare demarcation oxygen

overlap methodical way

neutralising even coverage

development

over-sensitised

darkest

4.5–5.5 mid-lengths anti-oxidant conditioner

ends body

Oxidation is the term used to describe the loss of hydrogen or gain of

oxygen. In hairdressing terms, we use oxidation to describe any service

that requires to make it work, e.g. colouring, bleaching

(lightening) and during the perming process. This

oxygen comes from hydrogen peroxide.

When carrying out a bleaching (lightening) service, you should start your

application where the hair is ; this is because the hair

should take longer to develop.

If you are carrying out a full head lightening service you should start your

application on the as the hair is most resistant here.

When the colour starts to lighten you should mix up a fresh bowl of

colour and apply it to the of the hair. This is because

the ends of the hair will be more porous than the mid-lengths. If the hair

is very short you can apply it straight through from the mid-lengths to the

ends.

Unit GH17



Once the ends have lifted a few shades, mix up another fresh bowl of

colour and apply it to the root area. This is because the roots will develop

quickest due to heat from the .

You should also adopt this sequence of application when carrying out a

full head red colour, as this will prevent .

A regrowth application should again start where the hair is darkest and

the lightening product should only be applied to the regrowth area. If you

the colour onto the previously lightened hair, that hair

will be become . However, you must make sure your

application goes right up to the line as failure to do this

will result in small dark ‘spots’ on the hair.

You must make sure your sectioning patterns are good and your

application is thorough as this will help you to work in a

and ensure an .

The bleach should be removed using tepid water and a gentle massage

to ensure the scalp is not irritated. You must make sure all the colouring

product has been removed to prevent irritation. After this an

should be used to restore the pH

value back to , to add moisture and to prevent further

taking place.

Unit GH17



GH17.A9 Activity sheet 9 – solution Oxidation and lightening hair Fill in the missing words in the gapped text. The words you need are in the box below. On completion, check your answers with your tutor.

continued

root glare demarcation oxygen

overlap methodical way

neutralising even coverage

development

over-sensitised

darkest

4.5–5.5 mid-lengths anti-oxidant conditioner

ends body

Oxidation is the term used to describe the loss of hydrogen or gain of

oxygen. In hairdressing terms, we use oxidation to describe any service

that requires to make it work, e.g. colouring, bleaching

(lightening) and during the perming process. This

oxygen comes from hydrogen peroxide.

When carrying out a bleaching (lightening) service, you should start your

application where the hair is ; this is because the hair

should take longer to develop.

If you are carrying out a full head lightening service you should start your

application on the as the hair is most resistant here.

When the colour starts to lighten you should mix up a fresh bowl of

colour and apply it to the of the hair. This is because

the ends of the hair will be more porous than the mid-lengths. If the hair

is very short you can apply it straight through from the mid-lengths to the

ends.

neutralising

oxygen

darkest

mid-lengths

ends

Unit GH17



Once the ends have lifted a few shades, mix up another fresh bowl of

colour and apply it to the root area. This is because the roots will develop

quickest due to heat from the .

You should also adopt this sequence of application when carrying out a

full head red colour, as this will prevent .

A regrowth application should again start where the hair is darkest and

the lightening product should only be applied to the regrowth area. If you

the colour onto the previously lightened hair, that hair

will be become . However, you must make sure your

application goes right up to the line as failure to do this

will result in small dark ‘spots’ on the hair.

You must make sure your sectioning patterns are good and your

application is thorough as this will help you to work in a

and ensure an .

The bleach should be removed using tepid water and a gentle massage

to ensure the scalp is not irritated. You must make sure all the colouring

product has been removed to prevent irritation. After this an

should be used to restore the pH

value back to , to add moisture and to prevent further

taking place.

body

root glare

demarcation

overlap

over-sensitised

way

methodical

coverage even

conditioner anti-oxidant

4.5–5.5

development

Unit GH17



GH17.A10 Activity sheet 10 Contra-indications and how to assess the problem Match each explanation of how to assess the problem to the correct contra-indication. Check your answers with your tutor.

Contra-indications How to assess the problem

Skin sensitivities

History of previous allergic reaction to hair colouring products

Other known allergies

Skin disorders

Incompatible products

Medical advice or instructions

Evident hair damage

Ask the client during consultation if they have any medical issues that could prove to be problematic. If necessary, ask for notification from their GP.

Ask the client during consultation and look at previous record card information.

Ask the client about any home colouring products they may have used in between visits. Carry out an incompatibility test on the hair.

Thoroughly check the skin and scalp before starting the colouring service.

Carry out a skin test prior to the service.

Carry out elasticity and porosity tests prior to the service.

Ask the client during consultation and record any known allergies.

Unit GH17



GH17.A10 Activity sheet 10 – solution Contra-indications and how to assess the problem – solution Match each explanation of how to assess the problem to the correct contra-indication. Check your answers with your tutor.

Contra-indications How to assess the problem

Skin sensitivities

History of previous allergic reaction to hair colouring products

Other known allergies

Skin disorders

Incompatible products

Medical advice or instructions

Evident hair damage

Ask the client during consultation if they have any medical issues that could prove to be problematic. If necessary, ask for notification from their GP.

Ask the client during consultation and look at previous record card information.

Ask the client about any home colouring products they may have used in between visits. Carry out an incompatibility test on the hair.

Thoroughly check the skin and scalp before starting the colouring service.

Carry out a skin test prior to the service.

Carry out elasticity and porosity tests prior to the service.

Ask the client during consultation and record any known allergies.

Unit GH17



GH17.A11 Activity sheet 11 Pre-lightening and pre-pigmentation: case studies

The lightening curve may be used when pre-lightening is necessary, e.g. you cannot achieve the desired colour using tint, and also when the hair requires pre-pigmenting.

It is essential that you have the correct undertones to achieve the desired result.

Complete the following case studies, identifying the correct undertones for each.

Client 1 A client with the depth of a 4 (dark brown) wants light copper highlights. Where on the lightening curve would you need to pre-lighten the hair to, to achieve the correct undertones?

Client 2 A client with the depth of a 3 (very dark brown) wants warm blonde highlights. Where on the lightening curve would you need to pre-lighten the hair to, to achieve the correct undertones?

Client 3 A client with lightened hair to the depth of a 9 (very light blonde) wants to go back to her natural colour, light brown (5). What colour would you need to use to pre-pigment the hair to achieve the correct result?

Client 4 A client with lightened hair to the depth of a 10 (lightest blonde) wants to go slightly darker, to the depth of an 8 (light blonde). What colour would you need to use to pre-pigment the hair to achieve the correct result?

Unit GH17



GH17.A11 Activity sheet 11 – solution Pre-lightening and pre-pigmentation: case studies

The lightening curve may be used when pre-lightening is necessary, e.g. you cannot achieve the desired colour using tint, and also when the hair requires pre-pigmenting.

It is essential that you have the correct undertones to achieve the desired result.

Complete the following case studies, identifying the correct undertones for each.

Client 1 A client with the depth of a 4 (dark brown) wants light copper highlights. Where on the lightening curve would you need to pre-lighten the hair to, to achieve the correct undertones?

Orange

Client 2 A client with the depth of a 3 (very dark brown) wants warm blonde highlights. Where on the lightening curve would you need to pre-lighten the hair to, to achieve the correct undertones?

Yellow

Client 3 A client with lightened hair to the depth of a 9 (very light blonde) wants to go back to her natural colour, light brown (5). What colour would you need to use to pre-pigment the hair to achieve the correct result?

Red

Client 4 A client with lightened hair to the depth of a 10 (lightest blonde) wants to go slightly darker, to the depth of an 8 (light blonde). What colour would you need to use to pre-pigment the hair to achieve the correct result?

Yellow / Gold

Unit GH17



GH17.A12 Activity sheet 12 Using colour to emphasise style For each of the following looks, decide where the focal point of the style is and think about the different ways you would emphasise it.

1 What colour and strength of developer would you use? 2 Where would you place the colour? 3 What tools and equipment would you use?

A B

D C

Unit GH17



GH17.A13 Activity sheet 13 Pre-pigmenting hair: an experiment This activity will help you to understand the importance of choosing the correct colour to use when pre-pigmenting hair and also show you how to attain the right results using a one-step method. Your client’s target shade is dark golden blonde.

1 Lighten (using bleach) 4 swatches of hair.

2 Pre-pigment 3 of the swatches using a different colour e.g. 1 using red, 1 using copper and 1 using gold, save 1 until later. You can use semi-permanent, quasi-permanent or permanent colour to do this.

3 Wrap each individual swatch in foil and develop following the manufacturer’s instructions.

4 When development is complete, rinse the pre-pigmentation colour from the hair.

5 Dry each swatch, and then apply the dark golden blonde permanent colour mixed with 6% developer and leave for the recommended time.

6 When the development time is complete, remove the colour and dry each swatch.

7 Colour the last swatch with a much warmer dark blonde colour, leave to develop, remove the colour and dry.

8 Compare the results. You should see a noticeable difference in the results you achieve.

Unit GH17



GH17.A14 Activity sheet 14 Role play Working in groups of three, decide who will take on the following roles:

• client • stylist • observer.

The client has a picture of the required result of the colouring service (this is not to be shown to the stylist).

The stylist is to carry out a thorough and effective consultation to find out the exact requirements of the client. A record card must be completed to indicate how the result will be achieved. The stylist should also ask the necessary questions and record any answers given by the client.

The observer should use the following checklist to make sure that the stylist covers all the necessary points, to ensure the correct outcome of the service. The stylist should see the observer’s checklist prior to the consultation, so that he or she knows what the observer will be checking for.

Observer checklist Did the stylist: Tick if carried out 1 Ask open questions during the consultation?

2 Ask closed questions when necessary?

3 Show good listening skills?

4 Use positive body language throughout?

5 Ask and record answers to questions relating to contra-indications?

6 Check that the tests were carried out and record the results?

7 Check the client’s hair porosity and elasticity?

8 Assess the client’s hair texture and density?

9 Discuss the client’s lifestyle/the manageability of the style?

10 Consider hairstyle when exploring possible options?

11 Account for the client’s skin tone and facial features?

12 Consider the client’s natural hair colour and percentage of white hair?

13 Establish any previous chemical history?

14 Assess the length of the client’s hair?

15 Record the client’s requirements (both colour and technique)?

16 Record the type of hair colour chosen?

17 Record the strength of hydrogen peroxide to use?

18 Give aftercare advice to the client?

Unit GH17



GH17.A15 Activity sheet 15 The effects of light and artificial lighting on the appearance of hair colour Natural light Natural daylight is often referred to as ‘white light’. This is because when you combine the seven colours that make up the visible spectrum (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet) the light that is produced is white.

We see the colour of an object because light rays are either reflected from the surface of the object or absorbed by it.

• When all colours are reflected from an object’s surface, it appears white. • When all colours are absorbed by the object’s surface, it appears black. • When we see an actual colour (e.g. red), this is because the colour we see is reflected

from the object’s surface and the other colours of the spectrum are absorbed by it.

For example, if you wear white on a hot day it helps you to keep cool because the sun’s light is reflected away from the white colour. When you wear black on a hot day, the sun’s heat is absorbed and you feel hotter!

Natural light is the best type of light for showing a ‘true colour’, so it is the best light for carrying out colouring work.

Artificial light Artificial light may not contain all the colours of the visible spectrum and therefore may not be classed as ‘white light’. This means that artificial light can change the colour we see – it may not be a true indication of the colour itself.

Now try this out in pairs! Under artificial light, look closely at the colour of your colleague’s hair. Then go outside (during the day) and see if the colour looks the same. The difference that you see in the hair colour will depend on the type of artificial lighting that you use in the salon or classroom.

Unit GH17



Questions 1 Name the seven colours that make up the visible spectrum.

2 Why do some objects or surfaces appear black?

3 Why do some objects or surfaces appear white?

4 What happens to light to enable us to see specific colours, for example, red?

5 What is the best light for carrying out colour work? Why?

6 State how artificial light can influence the results of colouring work.

Unit GH17



GH17.F1 Fact sheet 1 Colouring resistant hair

Resistant hair generally has more layers of cuticle scales than normal hair. The cuticles are tightly packed thus making it more difficult for colouring products to penetrate.

The photos above clearly indicate how easily colouring products can enter the hair with raised cuticles.

If you are working with resistant hair, you may need to pre-soften it prior to colouring, as this will open the cuticles, allowing the colouring products to penetrate.

1 Apply neat 3% hydrogen peroxide to the affected areas – cream hydrogen peroxide is easier to work with as it doesn’t run.

2 Dry the hydrogen peroxide into the hair. 3 Proceed with the normal colouring service.

The combination of hydrogen peroxide and heat will open the cuticles.

Unit GH17Colour hair using a variety of techniques

© Pearson Education 2009Printing and photocopying permitted

GH17 – Colour hair using a variety of techniques

Melanin and pheomelanin



Melanin and pheomelaninAll natural hair colour is made up of varying proportions of black, brown, red and yellow colour pigments found within the cortex of the hair.There are two main types of hair pigment:

• Melanin – brown and black hair pigments

• Pheomelanin – red and yellow hair pigments



Melanin and pheomelaninAll natural hair colour depends on the distribution of these two colour pigments.

Varying proportions of these pigments will produce different hair shades.



Black hairBlack hair contains a large percentage of black pigments, some brown and also a few red and yellowpigments.



Red hairRed hair is primarily made up of red pigments, with a few yellow and brown pigments and possibly, depending on the darkness of the hair, some black pigments.



Blonde hairBlonde hair contains mostly yellow pigments with possibly a few brown and black pigments. If the hair is a warm blonde there will also be some red pigments present.



White hairWhite hair contains no pigment granules at all.

Remember, when looking at a client’s natural hair colour there may be quite a difference in colour across the scalp. You may also notice in very dark hair the presence of individual hairs that are quite red!



Choosing a hair colourThe amount of melanin and pheomelanin found in a client’s hair must be considered when choosing a hair colour.

You will need to decide:• Whether you will be able to achieve the target shade,

i.e. is the natural base colour suitable for the desired result?



Choosing a hair colour• Which products to use to achieve the target shade,

i.e. will a quasi-permanent colour give the desired result or will you have to resort to permanent colour? When lightening hair, can you achieve the required amount of lift from a high-lift tint or will it be necessary to use bleach?

• Which strength of hydrogen peroxide to use to achieve the required amount of lift.



Questions1. Name the black and brown pigments found in the

hair.2. Name the red and yellow pigments found in the hair.3. What makes hair white? 4. In which part of the hair would you find the colour

pigments? 5. Which pigments would you expect to find in brown

hair? 6. When choosing hair colour, why is it essential to

consider the amount of natural colour pigment found in your client’s hair?




The effects of different colouring products on the hair



Colouring productsYou will be looking at the effects of the following colouring products on the hair:• Temporary colour• Semi-permanent colour• Quasi-permanent colour• Permanent colour• Bleach.



Temporary colour• Large colour molecules

coat the hair cuticle.• There is no penetration

of the hair cortex.• The colour will last for

only 1 or 2 washes.



Semi-permanent colour• Small colour molecules

are deposited into the hair cuticle and the outer edge of the hair cortex.

• The colour will last for between 6 to 8 washes.

• If the hair is unevenly porous, the result may be patchy.

Small molecules are deposited into the cuticle and outer edge of the cortex



Quasi-permanent colour• The quasi-permanent colour is

mixed with a low-volume oxidant (1:2 ratio).

• Different sized colour molecules enter the cortex and are oxidised by the oxidant.

• Because the oxidant is mild, the colour molecules do not become very large and are gradually lost each time the hair is shampooed.

• The colour is designed to fade over a period of 12 weeks.



Permanent colour – part 1• The permament colour is

mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

• The strength of the hydrogen peroxide used varies depending on the desired result (3, 6, 9 or 12%).

• When mixed with hydrogen peroxide, the small colourless molecules penetrate the hair cuticle and the hair cortex.



Permanent colour – part 2• The hydrogen peroxide begins to

break down into water and oxygen.

• The oxygen from the hydrogen peroxide joins together with and oxidises the small colourless molecules.

• The oxidised molecules swell to form large, colour molecules.

• The large colour molecules are unable to pass back through the hair cuticle and become trapped within the hair cortex.

Small colourless molecules mixed with oxidant penetrate the cuticle, into the cortex

Small molecules swell and become larger due to the nascent oxygen



The hair prior to bleachingBleaching is the process of changing the natural colour pigments in the hair so they become colourless.The natural hair pigments are melanin and pheomelanin.Melanin pigments are black and brown.Pheomelanin pigments are red and yellow.

Natural colour pigment



The hair after bleachingThe bleach penetrates the hair cortex and oxidises the natural colour pigment so that it becomes colourless.For example, brown melanin pigments are changed to colourless oxymelanin.

Colourless oxymelanin




The pH of colouring products



Introducing the pH scale

• The pH value indicates the level of acidity or alkalinity within a product.

• Litmus paper will turn red in products that are acidic.• Litmus paper will turn blue in products that are alkaline.

8 – 9.7Bleach

6.8 – 9QQuasi-permanent colour

6.8 Semi-permanent colour

4 Stabilised hydrogen peroxide

7.5 – 9.5 Permanent colour



pH values and their effect on the hairThe pH value of colouring products is an important point to consider because:• Acidic products are kinder to the hair since they help

to close the cuticles.• Mildly alkaline products will open the hair cuticles,

allowing colour to penetrate the hair more easily.• Highly alkaline products are very damaging to the

hair since they will break up the hair structure.You must always consider the pH of the products you use and the potential damage they may cause to your client’s hair.



The pH value of different colouring products

What is the pH value of the following colouring products? Think about each one.• Hydrogen peroxide• Semi-permanent colour• Quasi-permanent colour• Permanent colour• BleachYou will now find out what the pH values are.



The pH value of stabilised hydrogen peroxide

4 Stabilised hydrogen peroxide



The pH value of semi-permanent colour

6.8 Semi-permanent colour



The pH value of permanent colour7.5 – 9.5

Permanent colour



The pH value of quasi-permanent colour

6.8 – 9QQuasi-permanent colour



The pH value of bleach

8 – 9.7Bleach



Treating hair after the colouring processMost hair colouring products are alkaline and open the cuticles, therefore…an anti-oxidant conditioner must be used after the colour has been shampooed off the hair.An anti-oxidant conditioner will:• return the hair to its normal pH of 4.5 – 5.5 (slightly

acidic)• add moisture to the hair• stop further oxidation taking place (since this will

damage the hair)• close the cuticles.




The colour star



The primary coloursThe primary colours are:

RED YELLOW BLUE



The secondary colours: OrangeThe secondary colours are achieved by combing TWO of the primary colours.When you take the primary colour RED……and add the primary colour YELLOW……you get the secondary colour ORANGE.



The secondary colours: GreenThe secondary colours are achieved by combing TWO of the primary colours.When you take the primary colour BLUE……and add the primary colour YELLOW……you get the secondary colour GREEN.



The secondary colours: VioletThe secondary colours are achieved by combing TWO of the primary colours.When you take the primary colour RED……and add the primary colour BLUE……you get the secondary colour VIOLET.



The colour starThe colour star is used to show the range of primary and secondary colours.• Warm colours range

from RED through ORANGE (Copper) to YELLOW (Gold)

• Cool colours range from GREEN through BLUE to VIOLET



Complementary coloursComplementary colours are those colours that fall on opposite sides of the colour star.• RED and GREEN• YELLOW and

VIOLET• BLUE and ORANGEComplementary colours neutralise each other.



Colour correctionYou must know the principles of the colour star when carrying out a colour correction service.• Use complementary (opposite) colours to neutralise

unwanted tones. For example, violet will neutraliseunwanted yellow (gold).

• There are shampoos available to neutralise unwanted colour tone.

• However, you must remember to consider the intensity of the colour.



Considering colour intensitySome keys to good practice when carrying out a colour correction service are:• Take care not to use a darker or more vibrant colour

than is necessary.• Assess the depth of the client’s hair colour and use a

slightly lighter depth.• Make sure that the intensity of the tone is the same.

For example, neutralise nicotine staining on white hair with a silver colour rather than a more intense violet.




Step-by-step block colour and slicing techniques



Step 1Before the service.



Step 2Section hair into triangular sections and secure.



Step 3Leave the front hairline out of the sectioning pattern.



Step 4Apply colour to the back section and isolate using wraps.



Step 5Apply back to back slices (permanent colour).



Step 6Apply back to back slices (lightening product).



Step 7Complete the slices and mask off with wraps and foil.



Step 8Development time can be reduced with the use of a climazone.



Step 9Remove dark areas first to prevent colour bleed.



Step 10Apply toner at the backwash basin.



Step 11The finished look.



Step 12The finished look.




Step-by-step weaving and slicing



Step 1Before the service –the hair was pre-lightened.



Step 2Section from above the left eye to the nape on the right-hand side of the head in a horseshoe pattern.



Step 3Section hair on the opposite side into a triangular section leaving the hairline out.



Step 4Place back to back slices in the foil following the curved section.



Step 5Complete the curved section.



Step 6Begin to work through the triangular section using a woven and slicing technique in a diagonal pattern.



Step 7Apply the product.



Step 8Complete the triangular section.



Step 9The effect of the pink, purple and blue weaves.

Documents

Introduction - Pearson Schools and FE Colleges | Pearson ... · Unit GH17 Colour hair using a ... This Unit applies to both hairdressing and barbering learners at Level 3. ... The