Introduction to Marine Science (G5405)

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    BASIC OCEANOGRAPHY

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    Technology Yr 2,2009

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    What is Oceanography

    The scientific study of the ocean and itsinhabitants

    Major Sub disciplines Marine geology & geophysics Chemical oceanography Physical oceanography Biological oceanography and marine

    biology Ocean Engineering

    Marine policy and laws 2

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    1. Physical Oceanography

    or marine physics, studies the ocean's

    physical attributes including temperature-salinitystructure, mixing, waves, internal waves, tides

    and currents. Of particular interest is thebehaviour of sound (acoustical oceanography),

    light (optical oceanography) and radio waves inthe ocean.

    3Diploma in Idustrial LaboratoryTechnology Yr 2,2009

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_surface_wavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tidehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_currenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustical_oceanographyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustical_oceanographyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_currenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tidehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_surface_wave
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    Major Oceans

    The three major oceans are :1._______-largest, deepest, coldest, least salty.2.__________- second largest, shallow, warm,

    salty.3. _________- intermediate in depth,temperature, and salinity.

    The _______Ocean near the north pole, and the____________ Ocean near the south polecontain vast expanses of sea ice.

    Pacific

    Atlantic

    Indian

    ArcticAntarctic

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    Methods of Studying the Ocean

    The Topex/Poseidon_____________ orbits 1331km above the Earth, gathering information aboutthe oceans.

    _____________ maps ocean floor topographyby timing how long it takes sound waves tobounce off the ocean floor.

    Underwater vessels called _________________investigate the deepest ocean trenches.

    satellite

    Sonar

    submersibles

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    Sonar (also called echo-sounding)

    Sound waves travelhow fast in seawater?

    How deep is thewater if it takes tenseconds for the sound

    wave to go from shipto ocean floor andback to ship?

    1,454 m/s

    7,270 m

    Calculation: (10 s times 1,454 m/s divided by 2 ) 6

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    The picture below is of a _____________.submersible

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    Salinity

    The amount of salt per unit water is known as salinity.

    The average salinity of seawater is _____ ppt. Therefore, forevery 1,000 ml water, there are ___ grams of dissolved salts.

    The most abundant salt in seawater is ________, butthere are many other salts present in the form of ions.

    Near the equator salinity is __________ than average due to___________________.

    Near the poles salinity is __________ than average due to_______________.

    In the Mediterranean the salinity is __________thanaverage due to __________.

    NaCl

    35

    35

    lowergreater precipitation

    lower

    melting sea ice

    higher

    evaporation8Diploma in Idustrial LaboratoryTechnology Yr 2,2009

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    The salinityhere would

    likely be:

    A. 35 ppt

    B. 34 ppt

    C. 36 ppt

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    Colorful Seawater

    What makes the oceanwater in the picture tothe left different colors?

    Why would a shrimp thatappears bright red at thesurface appear black at

    greater depths, and whymight this be beneficial?

    differences in depth

    Longer (red) wavelengths areabsorbed before reachingdeep water. Shrimp can hide

    and not become a meal. 10Diploma in Idustrial LaboratoryTechnology Yr 2,2009

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    Label the three ocean layers in the diagram below.

    Surface layer

    Thermocline

    Bottom layer

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    Label the wave diagram below with the followingterms: wavelength, waveheight, trough, crest

    Ocean Movements

    trough

    crest

    wavelength

    waveheight

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    0

    5

    10

    15

    20

    25

    30

    0 4 8 12 16 20 24

    Semidiurnal

    Mixed

    Diurnal

    Tides

    Label the keywith thecorrect tide

    cycle names:

    semidiurnal

    mixed

    diurnal

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    Match the following terms totheir correct letter in the

    diagram:

    A

    B

    C

    D

    E

    D

    F

    G

    H

    Island

    Continental shelf

    Continental slope

    Abyssal plain

    Seamount

    Continental rise

    Trench

    Guyot

    Seafloor Topography

    A.

    B.

    C.

    D.

    E.

    F.

    G.

    H.

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    Listed below are some of the major surface currents. The forcewhich generates these currents is ____________.wind

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    Review Questions1. What is the average salinity of seawater?

    2. What is the deepest area of the seafloor?3. What is the largest ocean?

    4. Why is the ocean blue?

    5. What is the force responsible for surface currents?

    6. What causes density currents?

    7. What causes tides?

    8. List the 3 tidal patterns.

    9. What is the highest part of a wave called?

    10.Name the ocean that borders Virginia.

    35 ppt

    trench

    Pacific

    shorter wavelengths not absorbed

    wind

    differences in temperature andsalinity

    gravity of the sun and moon

    diurnal, semidiurnal, mixed

    crest

    Atlantic

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    2. Chemical oceanography,

    or marine chemistry, is the study of thechemistry of the ocean and its chemicalinteraction with the atmosphere

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    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_oceanographyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemistryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemistryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_oceanography
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    3.Biological oceanography:

    or marine biology, is the study of the

    plants, animals and microbes (biota) ofthe oceans and their ecological interaction

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    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_biologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biota_(ecology)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biota_(ecology)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_biologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_biology
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    Ocean Water and

    Ocean Life

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    Composition of seawater

    Seawater consists of about 3.5% (byweight) dissolved minerals

    Salinity Total amount of solid material dissolved in

    water

    Typically expressed in parts-per-thousand()

    Average salinity is 35

    Major constituent is sodium chloride 20Diploma in Idustrial LaboratoryTechnology Yr 2,2009

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    Relative proportions of waterand dissolved components in

    seawater

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    Composition of seawater

    Sources of sea salts

    Chemical weathering of rocks

    Outgassing gases from volcanic eruptions

    Processes affecting seawater salinity

    Variations in salinity are a consequence of

    changes in the water content of thesolution

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    Composition of seawater

    Processes affecting seawater salinity

    Processes that decrease salinity (add

    water) Precipitation Runoff from land Icebergs melting Sea ice melting

    Processes that increase salinity (removewater)

    Evaporation 23Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory

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    Composition of seawater

    Processes affecting seawater salinity

    Surface salinity in the open ocean ranges

    from 33 to 38

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    Ocean temperature

    Surface water temperature varies withthe amount of solar radiation received

    Lower surface temperatures are found inhigh-latitude regions

    Higher temperatures found in low-latitude

    regions

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    Ocean temperature

    Temperature variation with depth

    Low-latitudes

    High temperature at the surface Rapid decrease in temperature with depth

    (thermocline)

    High-latitudes

    Cooler surface temperatures No rapid change in temperature with depth

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    Variations in ocean watertemperature with depth

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    Ocean temperature

    Ocean temperature over time

    The unique thermal properties of seawater

    make it resistant to temperature changes Global warming could eventually influence

    ocean temperatures

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    Variations in the oceans

    surface tem-perature and

    salinity with latitude

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    Ocean density

    Density is mass per unit volume - howheavy something is for its size

    Determines the waters vertical positionin the ocean

    Factors affecting seawater density

    Salinity

    Temperature - the greatest influence

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    Ocean density

    Variations with depth

    Low-latitudes

    Low density at the surface Density increases rapidly with depth

    (pycnocline) because of colder water

    High-latitudes

    High-density (cold) water at the surface Little change in density with depth

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    Variations in ocean waterdensity with depth

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    Ocean density

    Ocean layering

    Layered according to density

    Three-layered structure Surface mixed zone

    Sun-warmed zone

    Zone of mixing

    Shallow (300 meters)

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    Ocean density

    Ocean layering

    Three-layered structure

    Transition zone Between surface layer and deep zone Thermocline and pycnocline

    Deep zone

    Sunlight never reaches this zone Temperatures are just a few degrees above

    freezing

    Constant high-density water

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    Layering in the ocean

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    Ocean life

    Marine environment is inhabited by awide variety of organisms

    Most organisms live within the sunlightsurface waters (photosynthesis)

    Classification of marine organisms

    Plankton FloatersAlgae (phytoplankton)

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    Ocean life

    Classification of marine organisms

    Plankton

    Animals (zooplankton) Bacteria Most of Earths biomass

    Nekton

    All animals capable of moving independently ofthe ocean currents

    They are unable to move throughout thebreath of the ocean

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    Ocean life

    Classification of marine organisms

    Benthos

    Bottom dwellersA great number of species exist on the shallow

    coastal floor

    Most live in perpetual darkness in deep water

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    Ocean life

    Marine life zones

    Several factors are used to divide the

    ocean into distinct marine life zonesAvailability of light

    Photic (light) zone

    Upper part of ocean

    Sunlit

    Euphotic zone is near the surface wherethe light is strong

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    Ocean life

    Marine life zones

    Several factors are used to divide the

    ocean into distinct marine life zonesAvailability of light

    Aphotic (without light) zone

    Deep ocean

    No sunlight

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    Ocean life

    Marine life zones

    Several factors are used to divide the

    ocean into distinct marine life zones Distance from shore

    Intertidal zone area where land and oceanmeet and overlap

    Neritic zone seaward from the low tideline, the continental shelf out to the shelfbreak

    Oceanic zone beyond the continental shelf

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    Ocean life

    Marine life zones Several factors are used to divide the

    ocean into distinct marine life zones Water depth Pelagic zone open ocean of any depth

    Benthic zone includes any sea-bottomsurface

    Abyssal zone a subdivision of the benthiczone

    Deep

    Extremely high water pressure

    Low temperatures 42Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory

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    Ocean life

    Marine life zones

    Several factors are used to divide the

    ocean into distinct marine life zones Water depth

    Abyssal zone a subdivision of the benthiczone

    No sunlight

    Sparse life

    Food sources include decaying particlesfrom above, large fragments falling, and

    hydrothermal vents 43Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory

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    Marine life zones

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    Oceanic Productivity

    Related to primary productivity

    The amount of carbon fixed by organisms

    through the synthesis of organic matter Sources of energy

    Photosynthesis (solar radiation) Chemosynthesis (chemical reactions)

    Influenced by

    Availability of nutrientsAmount of solar radiation

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    Oceanic Productivity

    Related to primary productivity

    Most abundant marine life exists where

    there is ample Nutrients Good sunlight

    Productivity in polar oceans Because of nutrients rising from deeper

    water, high-latitude surface waters havehigh nutrient concentrations

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    Oceanic Productivity

    Productivity in polar oceans

    Low solar energy limits photosynthetic

    productivityProductivity in tropical oceans

    Low in the open ocean

    Thermocline eliminates the supply ofnutrients from deeper waters below

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    An example of productivity inpolar oceans (Barents Sea)

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    Productivity in tropical

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    Productivity in tropicaloceans

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    Oceanic Productivity

    Productivity in temperate oceans

    Winter

    Low productivity Days are short and sun angle is low

    Spring

    Spring bloom of phytoplankton is quicklydepleted

    Productivity is limited

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    Oceanic Productivity

    Productivity in temperate oceans Summer

    Strong thermocline develops so surface

    nutrients are not replaced from below Phytoplankton population remains relatively low

    Fall Thermocline breaks down and nutrients return

    to the surface Short-lived fall bloom of phytoplankton

    Highest overall productivity occurs intemperate regions

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    Productivity in temperate

    oceans(Northern Hemisphere)

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    Oceanic feedingrelationships

    Main oceanic producers

    Marine algae

    Plants Bacteria

    Bacteria-like archaea

    Only a small percentage of the energytaken in at any level is passed on to thenext

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    Oceanic feedingrelationships

    Trophic levels

    Chemical energy stored in the mass of the

    oceans algae is transferred to the animalcommunity mostly through feeding

    Each feeding stage is called a trophic level

    Transfer of energy between trophiclevels is very inefficient (about 2%)

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    Ecosystem energy flowand efficiency

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    Oceanic feedingrelationships

    Food chains and food webs

    Food chain - a sequence of organisms

    through which energy is transferred Food web

    Involves feeding on a number of differentanimals

    Animals that feed through a food web ratherthan a food chain are more likely to survive

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    Comparison between a foodchain and a food web

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    4.Marine Geology:The Ocean Floor

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    Geography of oceans

    Marine Geology

    The sea floor

    Continental margins

    Ocean basin floor

    Ocean ridges

    Seafloor sediments

    Resources

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    The vast world ocean

    Earth is often referred to as the blueplanet

    Seventy-one percent of Earths surface isrepresented by oceans and marginal seas

    Continents and islands comprise theremaining 29

    Northern Hemisphere is called the landhemisphere, and the SouthernHemisphere the water hemisphere

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    Views of the

    Northern andSouthernhemispheres

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    The vast world ocean

    Four main ocean basins

    Pacific Ocean - the largest and has the

    greatest depthAtlantic Ocean about half the size of the

    Pacific and not quite as deep

    Indian Ocean slightly smaller than theAtlantic, largely a southern Hemispherebody

    Arctic Ocean about 7 percent the size of

    the Pacific 62Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory

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    Th f E th

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    The oceans of Earth

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    Mapping the ocean floor

    Bathymetry measurement of oceandepths and the charting of the shape or

    topography of the ocean floorEcho sounder (also referred to as

    sonar)

    Invented in the 1920s Primary instrument for measuring depth

    Reflects sound from ocean floor

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    Echo sounder andmultibeam sonar

    Figure 13.4 A 65Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory

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    Mapping the ocean floor

    Multibeam sonar

    Employs and array of sound sources and

    listening devices Obtains a profile of a narrow strip of

    seafloor

    Measuring the shape of the oceansurface from space

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    Mapping the ocean floor

    Three major topographic units of theocean floor

    Continental margins Ocean basin floor

    Mid-ocean ridge

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    Major topographic divisionsof the North Atlantic Ocean

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    Continental margins

    Passive continental margins

    Found along most coastal areas that

    surround the Atlantic Ocean Not associated with plate boundaries

    Experience little volcanism and Few earthquakes

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    Continental margins

    Passive continental margins

    Features comprising a passive continental

    margin Continental shelf

    Flooded extension of the continent

    Varies greatly in width

    Gently sloping

    Contains oil and important mineral deposits

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    Continental margins

    Passive continental margins

    Features comprising a passive continental

    margin Continental shelf

    Some areas are mantled by extensive glacialdeposits

    Most consist of thick accumulations ofshallow-water sediments

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    Continental margins

    Passive continental margins

    Features comprising a passive continental

    margin Continental slope

    Marks the seaward edge of the continentalshelf

    Relatively steep structure Boundary between continental crust and

    oceanic crust

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    Continental margins

    Passive continental margins

    Features comprising a passive continental

    margin Submarine canyons and turbidity currents

    Submarine canyons

    Deep, steep-sided valleys cut into the

    continental slope Some are seaward extensions of river

    valleys

    Most appear to have been eroded by

    turbidity currents 73Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory

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    Continental margins

    Passive continental margins

    Features comprising a passive continental

    margin Submarine canyons and turbidity currents

    Turbidity currents

    Downslope movements of dense,

    sediment-laden water Deposits are called turbidites

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    Turbidity currents

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    Turbidity currents

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    Continental margins

    Passive continental margins Features comprising a passive continental

    margin Continental rise

    Found in regions where trenches are absent

    Continental slope merges into a moregradual incline the continental rise

    Thick accumulation of sediment

    At the base of the continental slopeturbidity currents that follow submarinecanyons deposit sediment that forms deep-

    sea fans 76Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory

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    Features of a passive

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    Features of a passivecontinental margin

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    Continental margins

    Active continental margins

    Continental slope descends abruptly into a

    deep-ocean trench Located primarily around the Pacific Ocean

    Accumulations of deformed sediment andscraps of ocean crust form accretionarywedges

    Some subduction zones have little or noaccumulation of sediments

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    Ocean basin floor

    Deep-ocean trenches

    Long, relatively narrow features

    Deepest parts of ocean Most are located in the Pacific Ocean

    Sites where moving lithospheric plates

    plunge into the mantleAssociated with volcanic activity

    Volcanic islands arcs Continental volcanic arcs

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    An active continental

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    margin

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    Ocean basin floor

    Abyssal plains

    Likely the most level places on Earth

    Sites of thick accumulations of sediment Found in all oceans

    Seamounts and guyots

    Isolated volcanic peaks Many form near oceanic ridges

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    Ocean basin floor

    Seamounts and guyots May emerge as an island

    May sink and form flat-topped seamountscalled guyots or tablemounts

    Mid-ocean ridge Characterized by

    An elevated position Extensive faulting Numerous volcanic structures that have

    developed on newly formed crust

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    Ocean basin floor

    Mid-ocean ridge

    Interconnected ridge system is the longest

    topographic feature on Earths surface Over 70,000 kilometers (43,000 miles) in

    length

    Twenty-three percent of Earths surface

    Winds through all major oceansAlong the axis of some segments are deep

    downfaulted structures called rift valleys

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    Ocean basin floor

    Mid-ocean ridge

    Consist of layer upon layer of basaltic rocks

    that have been faulted and uplifted Mid-Atlantic Ridge has been studied more

    thoroughly than any other ridge system

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    Seafloor sediments

    Ocean floor is mantled with sediment

    Sources

    Turbidity currents Sediment that slowly settles to the bottom

    from above

    Thickness varies Thickest in trenches accumulations may

    approach 10 kilometers

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    Seafloor sediments

    Thickness varies

    Pacific Ocean about 600 meters or less

    Atlantic Ocean from 500 to 1000 metersthick

    Mud is the most common sediment on

    the deep-ocean floor

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    Seafloor sediments

    Types of seafloor sediments

    Terrigenous sediment

    Material weathered from continental rocksVirtually every part of the ocean receives some Fine particles remain suspended for a long time Oxidation often produces red and brown

    colored sediments

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    Seafloor sediments

    Types of seafloor sediments

    Biogenous sediment

    Shells and skeletons of marine animals andplants Most common are calcareous oozes produced

    from microscopic organisms that inhabit warm

    surface waters Siliceous oozes composed of skeletons ofdiatoms and radiolarians

    Phosphate rich materials derived from the

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    Seafloor sediments

    Types of seafloor sediments

    Hydrogenous sediment

    Minerals that crystallize directly from seawater Most common types include Manganese nodules

    Calcium carbonates

    Metal sulfides

    Evaporites

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    Distribution of marine

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    Distribution of marinesediments

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    Seafloor sediments

    Distribution

    Coarse terrigenous deposits dominate

    continental margin areas Fine-grained terrigenous material is

    common in deeper areas of the oceanbasin

    Hydrogenous sediment comprises only asmall portion of deposits in the ocean

    There are a few places where very little

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    Resources from the seafloor

    Energy resources

    Oil and gas

    Gas hydratesOther resources

    Sand and gravel

    Evaporative salts Manganese nodules