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7/31/2019 Introduction to Marine Science (G5405)
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BASIC OCEANOGRAPHY
1Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory
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What is Oceanography
The scientific study of the ocean and itsinhabitants
Major Sub disciplines Marine geology & geophysics Chemical oceanography Physical oceanography Biological oceanography and marine
biology Ocean Engineering
Marine policy and laws 2
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1. Physical Oceanography
or marine physics, studies the ocean's
physical attributes including temperature-salinitystructure, mixing, waves, internal waves, tides
and currents. Of particular interest is thebehaviour of sound (acoustical oceanography),
light (optical oceanography) and radio waves inthe ocean.
3Diploma in Idustrial LaboratoryTechnology Yr 2,2009
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_surface_wavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tidehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_currenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustical_oceanographyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustical_oceanographyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_currenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tidehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_surface_wave7/31/2019 Introduction to Marine Science (G5405)
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Major Oceans
The three major oceans are :1._______-largest, deepest, coldest, least salty.2.__________- second largest, shallow, warm,
salty.3. _________- intermediate in depth,temperature, and salinity.
The _______Ocean near the north pole, and the____________ Ocean near the south polecontain vast expanses of sea ice.
Pacific
Atlantic
Indian
ArcticAntarctic
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Methods of Studying the Ocean
The Topex/Poseidon_____________ orbits 1331km above the Earth, gathering information aboutthe oceans.
_____________ maps ocean floor topographyby timing how long it takes sound waves tobounce off the ocean floor.
Underwater vessels called _________________investigate the deepest ocean trenches.
satellite
Sonar
submersibles
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Sonar (also called echo-sounding)
Sound waves travelhow fast in seawater?
How deep is thewater if it takes tenseconds for the sound
wave to go from shipto ocean floor andback to ship?
1,454 m/s
7,270 m
Calculation: (10 s times 1,454 m/s divided by 2 ) 6
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The picture below is of a _____________.submersible
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Salinity
The amount of salt per unit water is known as salinity.
The average salinity of seawater is _____ ppt. Therefore, forevery 1,000 ml water, there are ___ grams of dissolved salts.
The most abundant salt in seawater is ________, butthere are many other salts present in the form of ions.
Near the equator salinity is __________ than average due to___________________.
Near the poles salinity is __________ than average due to_______________.
In the Mediterranean the salinity is __________thanaverage due to __________.
NaCl
35
35
lowergreater precipitation
lower
melting sea ice
higher
evaporation8Diploma in Idustrial LaboratoryTechnology Yr 2,2009
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The salinityhere would
likely be:
A. 35 ppt
B. 34 ppt
C. 36 ppt
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Colorful Seawater
What makes the oceanwater in the picture tothe left different colors?
Why would a shrimp thatappears bright red at thesurface appear black at
greater depths, and whymight this be beneficial?
differences in depth
Longer (red) wavelengths areabsorbed before reachingdeep water. Shrimp can hide
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Label the three ocean layers in the diagram below.
Surface layer
Thermocline
Bottom layer
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Label the wave diagram below with the followingterms: wavelength, waveheight, trough, crest
Ocean Movements
trough
crest
wavelength
waveheight
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0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 4 8 12 16 20 24
Semidiurnal
Mixed
Diurnal
Tides
Label the keywith thecorrect tide
cycle names:
semidiurnal
mixed
diurnal
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Match the following terms totheir correct letter in the
diagram:
A
B
C
D
E
D
F
G
H
Island
Continental shelf
Continental slope
Abyssal plain
Seamount
Continental rise
Trench
Guyot
Seafloor Topography
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
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Listed below are some of the major surface currents. The forcewhich generates these currents is ____________.wind
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Review Questions1. What is the average salinity of seawater?
2. What is the deepest area of the seafloor?3. What is the largest ocean?
4. Why is the ocean blue?
5. What is the force responsible for surface currents?
6. What causes density currents?
7. What causes tides?
8. List the 3 tidal patterns.
9. What is the highest part of a wave called?
10.Name the ocean that borders Virginia.
35 ppt
trench
Pacific
shorter wavelengths not absorbed
wind
differences in temperature andsalinity
gravity of the sun and moon
diurnal, semidiurnal, mixed
crest
Atlantic
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2. Chemical oceanography,
or marine chemistry, is the study of thechemistry of the ocean and its chemicalinteraction with the atmosphere
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_oceanographyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemistryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemistryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_oceanography7/31/2019 Introduction to Marine Science (G5405)
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3.Biological oceanography:
or marine biology, is the study of the
plants, animals and microbes (biota) ofthe oceans and their ecological interaction
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Ocean Water and
Ocean Life
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Composition of seawater
Seawater consists of about 3.5% (byweight) dissolved minerals
Salinity Total amount of solid material dissolved in
water
Typically expressed in parts-per-thousand()
Average salinity is 35
Major constituent is sodium chloride 20Diploma in Idustrial LaboratoryTechnology Yr 2,2009
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Relative proportions of waterand dissolved components in
seawater
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Composition of seawater
Sources of sea salts
Chemical weathering of rocks
Outgassing gases from volcanic eruptions
Processes affecting seawater salinity
Variations in salinity are a consequence of
changes in the water content of thesolution
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Composition of seawater
Processes affecting seawater salinity
Processes that decrease salinity (add
water) Precipitation Runoff from land Icebergs melting Sea ice melting
Processes that increase salinity (removewater)
Evaporation 23Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory
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Composition of seawater
Processes affecting seawater salinity
Surface salinity in the open ocean ranges
from 33 to 38
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Ocean temperature
Surface water temperature varies withthe amount of solar radiation received
Lower surface temperatures are found inhigh-latitude regions
Higher temperatures found in low-latitude
regions
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Ocean temperature
Temperature variation with depth
Low-latitudes
High temperature at the surface Rapid decrease in temperature with depth
(thermocline)
High-latitudes
Cooler surface temperatures No rapid change in temperature with depth
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Variations in ocean watertemperature with depth
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Ocean temperature
Ocean temperature over time
The unique thermal properties of seawater
make it resistant to temperature changes Global warming could eventually influence
ocean temperatures
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Variations in the oceans
surface tem-perature and
salinity with latitude
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Ocean density
Density is mass per unit volume - howheavy something is for its size
Determines the waters vertical positionin the ocean
Factors affecting seawater density
Salinity
Temperature - the greatest influence
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Ocean density
Variations with depth
Low-latitudes
Low density at the surface Density increases rapidly with depth
(pycnocline) because of colder water
High-latitudes
High-density (cold) water at the surface Little change in density with depth
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Variations in ocean waterdensity with depth
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Ocean density
Ocean layering
Layered according to density
Three-layered structure Surface mixed zone
Sun-warmed zone
Zone of mixing
Shallow (300 meters)
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Ocean density
Ocean layering
Three-layered structure
Transition zone Between surface layer and deep zone Thermocline and pycnocline
Deep zone
Sunlight never reaches this zone Temperatures are just a few degrees above
freezing
Constant high-density water
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Layering in the ocean
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Ocean life
Marine environment is inhabited by awide variety of organisms
Most organisms live within the sunlightsurface waters (photosynthesis)
Classification of marine organisms
Plankton FloatersAlgae (phytoplankton)
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Ocean life
Classification of marine organisms
Plankton
Animals (zooplankton) Bacteria Most of Earths biomass
Nekton
All animals capable of moving independently ofthe ocean currents
They are unable to move throughout thebreath of the ocean
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Ocean life
Classification of marine organisms
Benthos
Bottom dwellersA great number of species exist on the shallow
coastal floor
Most live in perpetual darkness in deep water
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Ocean life
Marine life zones
Several factors are used to divide the
ocean into distinct marine life zonesAvailability of light
Photic (light) zone
Upper part of ocean
Sunlit
Euphotic zone is near the surface wherethe light is strong
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Ocean life
Marine life zones
Several factors are used to divide the
ocean into distinct marine life zonesAvailability of light
Aphotic (without light) zone
Deep ocean
No sunlight
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Ocean life
Marine life zones
Several factors are used to divide the
ocean into distinct marine life zones Distance from shore
Intertidal zone area where land and oceanmeet and overlap
Neritic zone seaward from the low tideline, the continental shelf out to the shelfbreak
Oceanic zone beyond the continental shelf
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Ocean life
Marine life zones Several factors are used to divide the
ocean into distinct marine life zones Water depth Pelagic zone open ocean of any depth
Benthic zone includes any sea-bottomsurface
Abyssal zone a subdivision of the benthiczone
Deep
Extremely high water pressure
Low temperatures 42Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory
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Ocean life
Marine life zones
Several factors are used to divide the
ocean into distinct marine life zones Water depth
Abyssal zone a subdivision of the benthiczone
No sunlight
Sparse life
Food sources include decaying particlesfrom above, large fragments falling, and
hydrothermal vents 43Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory
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Marine life zones
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Oceanic Productivity
Related to primary productivity
The amount of carbon fixed by organisms
through the synthesis of organic matter Sources of energy
Photosynthesis (solar radiation) Chemosynthesis (chemical reactions)
Influenced by
Availability of nutrientsAmount of solar radiation
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Oceanic Productivity
Related to primary productivity
Most abundant marine life exists where
there is ample Nutrients Good sunlight
Productivity in polar oceans Because of nutrients rising from deeper
water, high-latitude surface waters havehigh nutrient concentrations
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Oceanic Productivity
Productivity in polar oceans
Low solar energy limits photosynthetic
productivityProductivity in tropical oceans
Low in the open ocean
Thermocline eliminates the supply ofnutrients from deeper waters below
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An example of productivity inpolar oceans (Barents Sea)
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Productivity in tropical
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Productivity in tropicaloceans
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Oceanic Productivity
Productivity in temperate oceans
Winter
Low productivity Days are short and sun angle is low
Spring
Spring bloom of phytoplankton is quicklydepleted
Productivity is limited
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Oceanic Productivity
Productivity in temperate oceans Summer
Strong thermocline develops so surface
nutrients are not replaced from below Phytoplankton population remains relatively low
Fall Thermocline breaks down and nutrients return
to the surface Short-lived fall bloom of phytoplankton
Highest overall productivity occurs intemperate regions
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Productivity in temperate
oceans(Northern Hemisphere)
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Oceanic feedingrelationships
Main oceanic producers
Marine algae
Plants Bacteria
Bacteria-like archaea
Only a small percentage of the energytaken in at any level is passed on to thenext
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Oceanic feedingrelationships
Trophic levels
Chemical energy stored in the mass of the
oceans algae is transferred to the animalcommunity mostly through feeding
Each feeding stage is called a trophic level
Transfer of energy between trophiclevels is very inefficient (about 2%)
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Ecosystem energy flowand efficiency
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Oceanic feedingrelationships
Food chains and food webs
Food chain - a sequence of organisms
through which energy is transferred Food web
Involves feeding on a number of differentanimals
Animals that feed through a food web ratherthan a food chain are more likely to survive
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Comparison between a foodchain and a food web
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4.Marine Geology:The Ocean Floor
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Geography of oceans
Marine Geology
The sea floor
Continental margins
Ocean basin floor
Ocean ridges
Seafloor sediments
Resources
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The vast world ocean
Earth is often referred to as the blueplanet
Seventy-one percent of Earths surface isrepresented by oceans and marginal seas
Continents and islands comprise theremaining 29
Northern Hemisphere is called the landhemisphere, and the SouthernHemisphere the water hemisphere
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Views of the
Northern andSouthernhemispheres
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The vast world ocean
Four main ocean basins
Pacific Ocean - the largest and has the
greatest depthAtlantic Ocean about half the size of the
Pacific and not quite as deep
Indian Ocean slightly smaller than theAtlantic, largely a southern Hemispherebody
Arctic Ocean about 7 percent the size of
the Pacific 62Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory
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Th f E th
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The oceans of Earth
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Mapping the ocean floor
Bathymetry measurement of oceandepths and the charting of the shape or
topography of the ocean floorEcho sounder (also referred to as
sonar)
Invented in the 1920s Primary instrument for measuring depth
Reflects sound from ocean floor
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Echo sounder andmultibeam sonar
Figure 13.4 A 65Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory
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Mapping the ocean floor
Multibeam sonar
Employs and array of sound sources and
listening devices Obtains a profile of a narrow strip of
seafloor
Measuring the shape of the oceansurface from space
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Mapping the ocean floor
Three major topographic units of theocean floor
Continental margins Ocean basin floor
Mid-ocean ridge
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Major topographic divisionsof the North Atlantic Ocean
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Continental margins
Passive continental margins
Found along most coastal areas that
surround the Atlantic Ocean Not associated with plate boundaries
Experience little volcanism and Few earthquakes
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Continental margins
Passive continental margins
Features comprising a passive continental
margin Continental shelf
Flooded extension of the continent
Varies greatly in width
Gently sloping
Contains oil and important mineral deposits
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Continental margins
Passive continental margins
Features comprising a passive continental
margin Continental shelf
Some areas are mantled by extensive glacialdeposits
Most consist of thick accumulations ofshallow-water sediments
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Continental margins
Passive continental margins
Features comprising a passive continental
margin Continental slope
Marks the seaward edge of the continentalshelf
Relatively steep structure Boundary between continental crust and
oceanic crust
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Continental margins
Passive continental margins
Features comprising a passive continental
margin Submarine canyons and turbidity currents
Submarine canyons
Deep, steep-sided valleys cut into the
continental slope Some are seaward extensions of river
valleys
Most appear to have been eroded by
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Continental margins
Passive continental margins
Features comprising a passive continental
margin Submarine canyons and turbidity currents
Turbidity currents
Downslope movements of dense,
sediment-laden water Deposits are called turbidites
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Turbidity currents
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Turbidity currents
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Continental margins
Passive continental margins Features comprising a passive continental
margin Continental rise
Found in regions where trenches are absent
Continental slope merges into a moregradual incline the continental rise
Thick accumulation of sediment
At the base of the continental slopeturbidity currents that follow submarinecanyons deposit sediment that forms deep-
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Features of a passive
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Features of a passivecontinental margin
Figure 13.9 77Diploma in Idustrial Laboratory
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Continental margins
Active continental margins
Continental slope descends abruptly into a
deep-ocean trench Located primarily around the Pacific Ocean
Accumulations of deformed sediment andscraps of ocean crust form accretionarywedges
Some subduction zones have little or noaccumulation of sediments
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Ocean basin floor
Deep-ocean trenches
Long, relatively narrow features
Deepest parts of ocean Most are located in the Pacific Ocean
Sites where moving lithospheric plates
plunge into the mantleAssociated with volcanic activity
Volcanic islands arcs Continental volcanic arcs
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An active continental
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margin
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Ocean basin floor
Abyssal plains
Likely the most level places on Earth
Sites of thick accumulations of sediment Found in all oceans
Seamounts and guyots
Isolated volcanic peaks Many form near oceanic ridges
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Ocean basin floor
Seamounts and guyots May emerge as an island
May sink and form flat-topped seamountscalled guyots or tablemounts
Mid-ocean ridge Characterized by
An elevated position Extensive faulting Numerous volcanic structures that have
developed on newly formed crust
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Ocean basin floor
Mid-ocean ridge
Interconnected ridge system is the longest
topographic feature on Earths surface Over 70,000 kilometers (43,000 miles) in
length
Twenty-three percent of Earths surface
Winds through all major oceansAlong the axis of some segments are deep
downfaulted structures called rift valleys
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Ocean basin floor
Mid-ocean ridge
Consist of layer upon layer of basaltic rocks
that have been faulted and uplifted Mid-Atlantic Ridge has been studied more
thoroughly than any other ridge system
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Seafloor sediments
Ocean floor is mantled with sediment
Sources
Turbidity currents Sediment that slowly settles to the bottom
from above
Thickness varies Thickest in trenches accumulations may
approach 10 kilometers
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Seafloor sediments
Thickness varies
Pacific Ocean about 600 meters or less
Atlantic Ocean from 500 to 1000 metersthick
Mud is the most common sediment on
the deep-ocean floor
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Seafloor sediments
Types of seafloor sediments
Terrigenous sediment
Material weathered from continental rocksVirtually every part of the ocean receives some Fine particles remain suspended for a long time Oxidation often produces red and brown
colored sediments
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Seafloor sediments
Types of seafloor sediments
Biogenous sediment
Shells and skeletons of marine animals andplants Most common are calcareous oozes produced
from microscopic organisms that inhabit warm
surface waters Siliceous oozes composed of skeletons ofdiatoms and radiolarians
Phosphate rich materials derived from the
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Seafloor sediments
Types of seafloor sediments
Hydrogenous sediment
Minerals that crystallize directly from seawater Most common types include Manganese nodules
Calcium carbonates
Metal sulfides
Evaporites
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Distribution of marine
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Distribution of marinesediments
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Seafloor sediments
Distribution
Coarse terrigenous deposits dominate
continental margin areas Fine-grained terrigenous material is
common in deeper areas of the oceanbasin
Hydrogenous sediment comprises only asmall portion of deposits in the ocean
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Resources from the seafloor
Energy resources
Oil and gas
Gas hydratesOther resources
Sand and gravel
Evaporative salts Manganese nodules