JAG QA Technical Seminar ( 0307 )

Prepared by : Raymond Chong ( JIL QA / Tech Team )Prepared by : Raymond Chong ( JIL QA / Tech Team ) 11

AgendaAgenda1.1. Introduction of Sample RequirementIntroduction of Sample Requirement2.2. GSP ( Graded Set Patterns ) PackageGSP ( Graded Set Patterns ) Package3.3. JAG Pattern ( Base Size & GSP )JAG Pattern ( Base Size & GSP )4.4. Trims Requirement ( Interlining / Zipper / Thread etc. )Trims Requirement ( Interlining / Zipper / Thread etc. )5.5. Pre-Production Sample ( PPS )Pre-Production Sample ( PPS )6.6. Jump Size Set SampleJump Size Set Sample7.7. Pilot SamplePilot Sample8.8. Size Set Sample ( SSS )Size Set Sample ( SSS )9.9. TOP Sample ( TOP )TOP Sample ( TOP )10.10. Mini-QA CenterMini-QA Center11.11. Question & Answer ( Q&A )Question & Answer ( Q&A )


Pro-Production Sample ( PPS )Pro-Production Sample ( PPS ) Jump Size Set SampleJump Size Set Sample Pilot SamplePilot Sample Size Set Sample ( SSS )Size Set Sample ( SSS ) TOP SampleTOP Sample Shipment SampleShipment Sample


GSP package is for PPS making, which package GSP package is for PPS making, which package is received by JIL merchandising team passing is received by JIL merchandising team passing to vendor directly.to vendor directly.

Vendor should immediately notify Vendor should immediately notify JIL JIL Merchandising TeamMerchandising Team if any of below items is if any of below items is missing from GSP package.missing from GSP package.


GSP package should include following :--GSP package should include following :--

2 sets base size pattern, 2 sets base size pattern, Match Marker for matching layout, Match Marker for matching layout, Graded set patterns ( GSP ),Graded set patterns ( GSP ), Production spec sheet with Production spec sheet with completed stampcompleted stamp

on top page,on top page, Original sample ( Sew-by sample ).Original sample ( Sew-by sample ).


Production spec sheet with Production spec sheet with Completed StampCompleted Stamp for PPS for PPS making.making.


Vendor should check with Vendor should check with JIL Tech TeamJIL Tech Team if if they have any questions regarding all they have any questions regarding all technical issues :--technical issues :--

JAG original pattern VS size spec, JAG original pattern VS size spec, Pattern layout VS Mini Marker, Pattern layout VS Mini Marker, Spec Sheet details,Spec Sheet details, Sewing construction,Sewing construction, Measurement etc.Measurement etc.


Enquiry on PPS MakingEnquiry on PPS Making

If vendor / factory comes across any technical issue If vendor / factory comes across any technical issue during PPS making, please address to JIL Tech Team during PPS making, please address to JIL Tech Team ( Raymond Chong / Felix Ma ) by e-mail :-( Raymond Chong / Felix Ma ) by e-mail :-

Raymond Chong – Raymond Chong – [email protected]@jil.com.hk

Felix Ma – Felix Ma – [email protected]@jil.com.hk


2 Sets Base Size Pattern2 Sets Base Size Pattern

( 1 for vendor / factory, 1 for JIL office )( 1 for vendor / factory, 1 for JIL office )

GSP ( Graded Set Patterns )GSP ( Graded Set Patterns )Hard-copy / Soft-copy by E-mail – for vendor / factoryHard-copy / Soft-copy by E-mail – for vendor / factory

PS : PS : NONO alteration / adjustment on JAG pattern is allowed, alteration / adjustment on JAG pattern is allowed, unless any authorization from JAG office is obtained.unless any authorization from JAG office is obtained.


If vendor feels that pattern adjustment is need to If vendor feels that pattern adjustment is need to be made for shrinkage, or make better fit, or be made for shrinkage, or make better fit, or construction change for their production line fit-construction change for their production line fit-in appropriately etc.in appropriately etc.

Then, a separate PPS, or mock-up should be Then, a separate PPS, or mock-up should be made and sent with vendor adjusted tracing made and sent with vendor adjusted tracing along with original PPS for JIL Tech Team along with original PPS for JIL Tech Team review. review. Any variances should be noted on Any variances should be noted on vendor PPS checklist reportvendor PPS checklist report..


Matching Marker :--Matching Marker :--

Matching marker will be sending to vendor / factory Matching marker will be sending to vendor / factory for PPS making, and vendor must return the matching for PPS making, and vendor must return the matching marker to JIL HK for PPS review.marker to JIL HK for PPS review.

Once the PPS is approved by JAG office, matching Once the PPS is approved by JAG office, matching marker will be returned to vendor / factory marker will be returned to vendor / factory automatically.automatically.


Discrepancy DiscoveredDiscrepancy Discovered

Vendor must follow JAG original pattern for PPS Vendor must follow JAG original pattern for PPS making, and check the base size pattern & GSP making, and check the base size pattern & GSP measurements out to see any discrepancy / grading measurements out to see any discrepancy / grading against with the latest size spec. against with the latest size spec.

If any discrepancy is found, vendor should submit If any discrepancy is found, vendor should submit the the checklist form with full sizes GSP measurementschecklist form with full sizes GSP measurements along along with PPS, and write down the unreasonable issue ( E.g. with PPS, and write down the unreasonable issue ( E.g. discrepancy, or grading etc. ) for JIL Tech Team discrepancy, or grading etc. ) for JIL Tech Team reference for reviewing PPS.reference for reviewing PPS.


JAG Pattern / GSP ( Measurement ) :JAG Pattern / GSP ( Measurement ) :

Non-Washed ProgramNon-Washed Program : Just follow JAG Pattern : Just follow JAG Pattern for cutting, and use accurate seam allowance for for cutting, and use accurate seam allowance for sewing, and write down the discrepancy on the sewing, and write down the discrepancy on the checklist form when submitting PPS to JIL checklist form when submitting PPS to JIL office.office.

Washed ProgramWashed Program : There will be 2 sets sample : There will be 2 sets sample requested if vendor is not able to meet spec requested if vendor is not able to meet spec tolerance after making version A from JAG tolerance after making version A from JAG original pattern.original pattern.


• Washed ProgramWashed Program

Version A )Version A ) is to follow JAG Pattern exactly to cut, is to follow JAG Pattern exactly to cut, use accurate use accurate seam allowance as spec required to sew to sew and wash.and wash.


Version B )Version B ) is to adjust is to adjust proper fabric / washing proper fabric / washing shrinkage to meet / close shrinkage to meet / close to the size spec to the size spec requested.requested.

However, the silhouette / However, the silhouette / shape of pattern shape of pattern must bemust be remained unchanged.remained unchanged.


( Version A & B ) 2 sets ( Version A & B ) 2 sets PPS for washed program is PPS for washed program is only for all labels handling only for all labels handling by JAG office of by JAG office of NY StudioNY Studio, , which the top of right corner which the top of right corner on the spec sheet has on the spec sheet has indicated indicated NY1NY1 or or NY2NY2 . .


For all labels handling by For all labels handling by Bristol JAG officeBristol JAG office, , PPS for washed program must be adjusted PPS for washed program must be adjusted according to fabric / washing shrinkage to close according to fabric / washing shrinkage to close to spec by 1 set ( 4 samples ) only.to spec by 1 set ( 4 samples ) only.

The spec sheet will indicate NY3, NY4, BR1 The spec sheet will indicate NY3, NY4, BR1 etc.etc.

PS : However, the JAG pattern silhouette / PS : However, the JAG pattern silhouette / shape shape must be remained unchangedmust be remained unchanged, just , just enlarged / or reduced.enlarged / or reduced.


All Wet Processing Garments must have a copy All Wet Processing Garments must have a copy of the of the PPS information sheetPPS information sheet attached to them for attached to them for JAG / JIL QA review PPS.JAG / JIL QA review PPS.

For the set PPS making according to vendor For the set PPS making according to vendor adjustment, vendor must submit the adjustment, vendor must submit the Tracing Tracing together along when sending 2 sets of PPS.together along when sending 2 sets of PPS.

All PPS must have All PPS must have a hangtaga hangtag attached to them attached to them with the with the style numberstyle number and and vendor namevendor name listed. listed. For EDI of Replenishment and Key Item styles, For EDI of Replenishment and Key Item styles, the group number must also be listed.the group number must also be listed.


For EDI of Replenishment and Key Item Styles : --For EDI of Replenishment and Key Item Styles : --

Once PPS from the initial group has been approved, Once PPS from the initial group has been approved, a PPS is not required for each additional group as a PPS is not required for each additional group as long as the groups are continuous. Other groups long as the groups are continuous. Other groups may be “ Auto-approved “ as an add-on.may be “ Auto-approved “ as an add-on.

If there has been a break in production between If there has been a break in production between groups ( two months or more ), JAG will not accept groups ( two months or more ), JAG will not accept as add-on. New PPS must be submitted again.as add-on. New PPS must be submitted again.


PS : PS : JAG NY officeJAG NY office has to be notified before has to be notified before vendor begins each group. This is because vendor begins each group. This is because sometimes patterns have been revised between sometimes patterns have been revised between the groups, and JAG NY office needs to make the groups, and JAG NY office needs to make sure vendor will proceed with the correct sure vendor will proceed with the correct pattern, and in that case JAG may request a pattern, and in that case JAG may request a new PPS based on the new pattern. Also, there new PPS based on the new pattern. Also, there are some circumstances where JAG might are some circumstances where JAG might need to request a Size Set, or TOP. Another need to request a Size Set, or TOP. Another reason why JAG have to be notified is, so JAG reason why JAG have to be notified is, so JAG can sign off each group in LDM.can sign off each group in LDM.


JAG nominate suppliersJAG nominate suppliers

Interlining – PCC / VileneInterlining – PCC / Vilene

Zipper – YKK / Talon / YNC / Zipper – YKK / Talon / YNC / GenmoreGenmore

Button / Snap – AGH, other nominatedButton / Snap – AGH, other nominated

Thread – A&E / Coats / GunzetalThread – A&E / Coats / Gunzetal


InterliningInterlining

No No substitution / available quality is allowed, substitution / available quality is allowed, or can be used on PPS / SSS / TOP and bulk or can be used on PPS / SSS / TOP and bulk production.production.

Any problem of the interlining as JAG Any problem of the interlining as JAG assigned, vendor must raise up during PPS assigned, vendor must raise up during PPS submission, and submit interlining test report submission, and submit interlining test report with any alterative for JAG office review and with any alterative for JAG office review and final approval.final approval.


ZipperZipper

Local zipper is Local zipper is notnot allowed for production use, allowed for production use, and JIL does not prefer to use sub-quality and JIL does not prefer to use sub-quality zipper for PPS making.zipper for PPS making.

PS : Any zipper with claw top metal stopper PS : Any zipper with claw top metal stopper must be avoid for production, or insert the must be avoid for production, or insert the stopper into the waistband invisibly.stopper into the waistband invisibly.


ButtonButton

Button ( including Size ) must be according to spec Button ( including Size ) must be according to spec required for using in bulk.required for using in bulk.

Button tacking :--Button tacking :--

All button must be “ 11 “ tacking, except Jones All button must be “ 11 “ tacking, except Jones Signature to be “ X Cross “ only. Button must be Signature to be “ X Cross “ only. Button must be wrapped for size 24L or up.wrapped for size 24L or up.


ThreadThread

No No sub-quality / local thread can be used for sub-quality / local thread can be used for production.production.

Vendor must follow latest spec sheet for using Vendor must follow latest spec sheet for using specific thread stated ( e.g. Polycore, Tex size specific thread stated ( e.g. Polycore, Tex size etc. ) on PPS as well.etc. ) on PPS as well.


Thread color ( including top stitching, inside Thread color ( including top stitching, inside garment overlocking, button-hole etc. ) should garment overlocking, button-hole etc. ) should be DTM to ground color of self fabric, unless be DTM to ground color of self fabric, unless specific required on spec.specific required on spec.

PS : For complete guide for thread using, please PS : For complete guide for thread using, please refer the updated refer the updated Thread, Machinery & S.P.I. Thread, Machinery & S.P.I. StandardsStandards from JAG issued. from JAG issued.


Trims ApprovalTrims Approval

Vendor should submit all trimmings to JIL Vendor should submit all trimmings to JIL merchandising team for approval prior to merchandising team for approval prior to ordering.ordering.

PS : Thread type for PS : Thread type for blind stitchblind stitch is classified is classified for light & heavy weight fabric. Any fabric for light & heavy weight fabric. Any fabric less than 2.6 oz must be using 200/2 multi-less than 2.6 oz must be using 200/2 multi-filament. Any change will be commented filament. Any change will be commented given from JIL tech team during PPS approval.given from JIL tech team during PPS approval.


Introduction :--Introduction :--

The requirement of PPS is to ensure vendor / The requirement of PPS is to ensure vendor / factory well understood the constructions as factory well understood the constructions as specification sheet required for constructing specification sheet required for constructing sample for production.sample for production.

If there is matching required, vendor / factory If there is matching required, vendor / factory must follow the layout requirement as JAG must follow the layout requirement as JAG matching marker on the PPS for approval.matching marker on the PPS for approval.


All styles require a PPS for approval, unless they All styles require a PPS for approval, unless they meet meet ALLALL of the following criteria :-- of the following criteria :--

Made in the same factory as previouslyMade in the same factory as previously Using the same pattern previouslyUsing the same pattern previously Non-match fabricsNon-match fabrics Production must be continuous with no more Production must be continuous with no more

than a two months break in productionthan a two months break in production Under 20,000 unitsUnder 20,000 units


PPS SubmissionPPS Submission

When vendor / factory submits the PPS to JIL When vendor / factory submits the PPS to JIL HK office, HK office, Four identical samplesFour identical samples is required. is required.

PS : Any of listed below information is missing / PS : Any of listed below information is missing / late submission will cause PPS review delayed late submission will cause PPS review delayed for sure.for sure.


Sew-by / original sample, Sew-by / original sample, Latest spec sheet,Latest spec sheet, Mini marker,Mini marker, JIL official checklist form & full sizes GSP JIL official checklist form & full sizes GSP

measurement checklist,measurement checklist, Washing information sheet.,Washing information sheet., Base size JAG original pattern, ( matching marker for Base size JAG original pattern, ( matching marker for

layout matching requirement etc. )layout matching requirement etc. ) Factory tracing ( for Factory tracing ( for SignatureSignature, , SportSport, , JeansJeans and and

StudioStudio and and laterlater CountryCountry & & Easy SpiritEasy Spirit etc. ). etc. ).


Matching / Layout :-- Matching / Layout :--

Must follow JAG matching marker for Must follow JAG matching marker for making PPS ( making PPS ( especially for plaid / stripeespecially for plaid / stripe ) ) for JAG approval.for JAG approval.

PS : Once the matching / layout have been PS : Once the matching / layout have been changed by JAG required during PPS changed by JAG required during PPS approval, JPEG would be requested for approval, JPEG would be requested for sending JIL QA / Technical for follow-up.sending JIL QA / Technical for follow-up.


Sample Yardage :--Sample Yardage :--

PPS yardage PPS yardage must bemust be in the same fabric QUALITY as in the same fabric QUALITY as the bulk fabric. It can be in a sub-color or a sub-print the bulk fabric. It can be in a sub-color or a sub-print if the fabric if the fabric does notdoes not require matching. require matching.

If vendor use substitute fabric, if bulk fabric is not If vendor use substitute fabric, if bulk fabric is not available. Substitute preference would be :-available. Substitute preference would be :-

Same quality bulk from another order,Same quality bulk from another order, Dups yardage,Dups yardage, Available yardage from another seasonAvailable yardage from another season


If fabric / yardage, trims ( button, snap or If fabric / yardage, trims ( button, snap or zipper ) and labels etc. on the PPS is not zipper ) and labels etc. on the PPS is not actual bulk for production, then it must be actual bulk for production, then it must be listed as sub-quality / available on vendor listed as sub-quality / available on vendor PPS checklist report.PPS checklist report.

PS : Again, interlining cannot be sub-quality. PS : Again, interlining cannot be sub-quality. Local zipper cannot be accepted. Thread type Local zipper cannot be accepted. Thread type must be used as what spec specified.must be used as what spec specified.


Spec Sheet ( Technical Package ) : --Spec Sheet ( Technical Package ) : --

All the constructions on the PPS must be All the constructions on the PPS must be followed the latest spec sheet ( technical followed the latest spec sheet ( technical package ) for making.package ) for making.

Any suggestion must be submitted another Any suggestion must be submitted another PPS or Mock-up sample for JAG final review PPS or Mock-up sample for JAG final review and approval.and approval.


Jump size set is required once PPS is approved Jump size set is required once PPS is approved by JAG office.by JAG office.

Actually, this is vendor responsibility to Actually, this is vendor responsibility to ensure JAG patterns grading is matched with ensure JAG patterns grading is matched with the size spec before production starting, the size spec before production starting, especially for the washed program garment in especially for the washed program garment in shrinkage built-in.shrinkage built-in.


Vendor should raise up any issue to tech team Vendor should raise up any issue to tech team at this moment on the JAG GSP against with at this moment on the JAG GSP against with size spec.size spec.

Jones QA will take a look on the jump size set Jones QA will take a look on the jump size set sample, if they are around the factory.sample, if they are around the factory.

However, again, this is definitely However, again, this is definitely notnot Jones Jones QA responsibility to hold the production until QA responsibility to hold the production until jump size set sample approvaljump size set sample approval..


Pilot sample is mandatory to require for 2 labels Pilot sample is mandatory to require for 2 labels below after jump size set is finished :--below after jump size set is finished :--

Jones SignatureJones Signature Nine WestNine West

Sample should be pulled out from 1Sample should be pulled out from 1stst pilot of pilot of production by Jones QA and sending to JIL Tech production by Jones QA and sending to JIL Tech Team for review immediately.Team for review immediately.


Size set sample is required for all labels listed Size set sample is required for all labels listed below :--below :--

Jones SignatureJones Signature Jones SportJones Sport Jones JeansJones Jeans Jones StudioJones Studio Jones Country ( Petite – Fall ‘2004 )Jones Country ( Petite – Fall ‘2004 ) Easy Spirit ( Fall ‘2004 )Easy Spirit ( Fall ‘2004 )


Size set sample submission :--Size set sample submission :--

Size set sample submission is almost the same as Size set sample submission is almost the same as PPS, vendor must checked all points as final approval PPS, vendor must checked all points as final approval PPS comments along with SSS.PPS comments along with SSS.

Latest spec sheet, checklist form, washing info. and Latest spec sheet, checklist form, washing info. and factory tracing must be required.factory tracing must be required.

PS : Missing any listed above will caused delayed SSS PS : Missing any listed above will caused delayed SSS review.review.


TOP sample is required for 2 reasons below :--TOP sample is required for 2 reasons below :--

Order quantity most than 5,000 pcs.Order quantity most than 5,000 pcs. Size set sample is still not satisfactory by Size set sample is still not satisfactory by

JAG office.JAG office.

PS : Vendor / factory must take fully responsibility for PS : Vendor / factory must take fully responsibility for bulk production quality issue, if TOP missing when bulk production quality issue, if TOP missing when required by JAG officerequired by JAG office


Mini QA Center is a certified program ( factory QA Mini QA Center is a certified program ( factory QA training ) by JIL HK office. It is an ultimate goal of JIL training ) by JIL HK office. It is an ultimate goal of JIL QA / Tech Team in the coming future. QA / Tech Team in the coming future.

Also, it helps both Jones and Also, it helps both Jones and its business partners ( vendors its business partners ( vendors / factories ) by training / factories ) by training program definitely for sure.program definitely for sure.


Advantage for vendor / factory :--Advantage for vendor / factory :--

Help the factory to help themselves -- Factory Help the factory to help themselves -- Factory QA Training ( Certified program by JIL HK )QA Training ( Certified program by JIL HK )

Set up Mini QA Center inside the factory to Set up Mini QA Center inside the factory to conduct quality monitoring / inspection on conduct quality monitoring / inspection on behalf of JIL QA.behalf of JIL QA.

Create the sense of Quality concept between Create the sense of Quality concept between Factory Management & workers.Factory Management & workers.


Advantage for Jones :--Advantage for Jones :--

• Prevent Quality issue at the last minute.Prevent Quality issue at the last minute.

• Safe-guard standard and on-time delivery.Safe-guard standard and on-time delivery.

• Reduce JIL QC / QA traveling time and Reduce JIL QC / QA traveling time and expenses.expenses.

• Consistent quality standard goods from long-Consistent quality standard goods from long-term business partners ( vendors / factories )term business partners ( vendors / factories )


A ccessoryIn sp ec tion

W ash in gTes tin g Q A

P ress in gP ack in g Q A

F ab ric & D ye L o tIn sp ec tion

In -lin e R ovin gQ A

F in a l S ta tionQ A

A Q LF in a l A u d it

S ew in gQ A

F ac to ry Q A C h ie f

Mini QA Center Organization ChartMini QA Center Organization Chart


Mini QA Center ProceduresMini QA Center Procedures

Production FlowProduction Flow QA functionQA function

Raw MaterialRaw Material Fabric InspectionFabric Inspection (4 Point System)(4 Point System)Accessory InspectionAccessory Inspection

CuttingCutting Spreading & CuttingSpreading & Cutting

WashingWashing QA Measurement & Outlook AppearanceQA Measurement & Outlook Appearance

In-line QAIn-line QASewing Line Sewing Line Final QAFinal QA

AQL QAAQL QA

Pressing & PackingPressing & Packing Pressing & Packing QAPressing & Packing QA

Fty Final AuditFty Final Audit Check Packed QtyCheck Packed QtyFinal InspectionFinal Inspection


Question & Answer SectionQuestion & Answer Section

Documents

JAG QA Technical Seminar ( 0307 )