Marker Making

Definition of Marker : Marker is a part of a paper on which the patterns of all parts of the garments are drawn so that garments can be made by using minimum quantity of fabric.

Marker width is normally equal to the minimum width of the fabric. Marker length depends on no. of patterns of garments used for making a marker. Marker length depends on some other factor.

1. No. of garments produced by a lay of a spread.2. Length of the cutting table.3. Production planning.

Marker Efficiency:

More the efficiency of the marker, less the loss of fabric. The price of a garments depends mostly on the fabric. So increasing marker efficiency will increase the profit. That’s why marker efficiency is very important.

Factor Effecting Marker Efficiency :

a. Marker Maker: Marker efficiency depends on the knowledge, experience, dedication and honesty of the Marker maker.

b. Size of the garments: If no. of the size of the pattern include in a marker, the marker efficiency increase.

c. Marker Length: Increase in marker length will increase marker efficiency.

d. Pattern Engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased by changing the pattern design or dividing the pattern in small parts.

Area of the patterns X 100 Area of the marker

e. Quality of fabric: Symmetric fabric (looks alike from all side) increases the marker efficiency, on the other hand asymmetric fabric (Stripes, Check) decrease the marker efficiency.

f. Marker Making: There are two ways of making marker, Manual and computerized. Computerized system has increased efficiency but it required more time. Experienced marker maker can produce efficient marker in a short time.

g. Marker width: Marker width depends on fabric width. Increasing marker width will increase marker efficiency.

h. Type of garments: Large pattern sizes in a marker decrease the efficiency. On the other hand Small pattern sizes will increase marker efficiency.

Constraints of Marker Making:

a. Grain Line: Grain line is pointed in every pattern. Grain line points the warp of the fabric.

b. Quality of fabric: Symmetric fabric looks alike from all side but asymmetric fabric looks different. That’s why pattern making of symmetric fabric is easy but pattern making of asymmetric fabric is difficult.

c. Garments Design: The garments which contain special type of design (Such as mirror image) need special care in marker making.

d. Cutting quality:e. Production Planning

Methods of Marker making

After making the pattern, Marker is made. At first marker width is fixed, The minimum fabric width is the marker width. Normally white paper or newsprint paper is used for making marker. At first large pattern are fixed then small patterns are used to fill the gap. There are two process for making marker,

1. Manual marker making a. Using full size pattern b. Using small pattern2. Computerized marker making

Manual Marker Making:

1. Using Full Size Pattern: In this type of marker making, the maker use full size of pattern. The pattern made by hard paper is set on the marker and adjust to increase efficiency. This process is useful for short length marker.

2. Using small Pattern:a. Full size patterns are reduced in 1/5 scale by using pantograph.b. The dimensions of marker table is normally 2 mtr X 50 cmc. The picture of the marker is taken by using a camera.d. The are of the marker covered by the pattern is determined by

the Planimeter. Then marker efficiency is also determined.e. By watching the small and efficient small pattern manual

marker, full size marker can e produced.

Computer Control Marker Making:

1. Production pattern is first save in computer memory. Scanning system is normally used for this.

2. After saving the patterns, grade rule is used for making all size patterns.

3. Some computer uses such program that they own can make marker. This is known as automatic marker making. But it is a slow process.

4. When Marker maker uses computer to make marker by himself, then it is known as interactive marker making. In this system the computer screen contain two parallel horizontal lines that gives the marker width. At the left corner of the two lines there is a vertical line, which indicates the start of the marker.

5. The quality of computer control marker is better than manual marker. In computer control marker as much as copy can be possible. But it is a costly process. Almost 2% fabric savings can be done by computer control marker system.

Method of Drawing and Duplicating a marker:

Normally marker is drawn on white paper. Marker paper is set on the fabric by using pin or gum. While cutting the fabric the marker also cut, so that it is good to keep copies of the marker.

Process:1. Hand drawing on to the paper: Pattern is set on to the marker. then

marker is prepared by using thin pencil.

Machinaries of marker duplicating: a. Carbon duplicating method: Use Carbon paper between two

marker. 6 to 8 marker can be produced at a time.b. Spirit duplicating: Use office duplicating machines. 40-45

marker can be produced at a time.c. Photographic Method: Main marker can be duplicated by light

sensitive paper using ultraviolet light. The marker become visible by treating with ammonia vapour.

d. Perforated marker: At first pattern is set and drawn the marker. Then perforation is done in marker papers by using punch needle.

2. Computerised marking: