0860 10 50 50www.mapstudio.co.za R O A D A T L A S

PERFECT FOR THE FIRST TIME VISITOR E COLOUR PHOTOS DETAILED CONTINUOUS MAP SECTION E STREET MAPS

TOURIST AREAS E SITES E PLACE NAMES INDEX CONTACT INFO E SMALL TOWNS E RESERVES

NATIONAL PARKS E ROUTE PLANNER ACTIVITIES E HOT SPOTS E HISTORY

GPS CO-ORDINATES

NEW INCLUDESGPS CO-ORDINATES

SINCE 1958Qual

ity M

aps

www.mapstudio.co.za

T R A V E L

1st Edition © Map Studio™ 2009All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape,

mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the Copyright owner.

Map Studio and the MapStudio device are trademarked to New Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd

Cover image supplied by IMAGES OF AFRICA www.imagesofafrica.co.za

Ian Michler

ISBN 978-1-77026-030-6

9 781770 260306

MOZAMBIQUE

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3

INTRODUCTION 4General 6Parks and Reserves 8History 10Activities 12Getting Around 14

TOURIST REGIONS 16

MAPUTO REGION 18Highlights 20Maputo 22Maputaland 24Maputo Bay & South 26Maputo Elephant Reserve 28Bilene 30Chokwe & Surrounds 31

SOUTHERN REGION 32Xai-Xai & Praia do Xai-Xai 34Great Limpopo TransfrontierReserve 36Zinave & Banhine National Parks 38Inhambane & Surrounds 40Vilankulo 42Inhambane Coast & Tofo 43Bazaruto Archipelago 44

CENTRAL REGION 46Beira 48Beira Corridor 49Gorongosa National Park 50Tete 52Zambezi Delta 53Quelimane 54Quelimane & Surrounds 55Gili Reserve 56Nampula 57Cuamba 59Mozambique Island 60

NORTHERN REGION 62Pemba 64Ibo 65Mocímboa da Praia 66Quirimba Archipelago 67Quirimba Archipelago South 68Quirimba Archipelago North 70Niassa Reserve 72Lichinga Area 74

MAIN MAP PAGES 76

INDEX 107RESOURCES 109

Mozambique flag

Contents Contents Contents ContentMOZAMBIQUE

44

WHAT THE ISLANDS OFFER•Ilha do BazarutoCan be visited by twin-engined aircraft orboat; Bazaruto Lodge and Indigo Bay Hoteloffer sheer style and island luxury; the faroldo Bazaruto still flashes its warning signalsout to sea.

•Ilha de BenguerraA tract of indigenous dune forest promisessuperlative birdwatching and a series of brack-water lakes in which crocodiles secretly lurk is surrounded by beautiful shifting dunes that change colour with thelight. Benguerra Island and Marlin Lodge– the latter built of Mozambicanhardwoods and elevated on stilts – will ensure sweet dreams.

•Ilha de MagaruqueCatch a dhow to here or take a ski-boat transfer. Stroll on deserted beaches, or snorkel or scuba dive in the deep channelthat runs offshore a short swim from the beach. Low tide exposes a multitude of pansy shells (one endemic to Mozambique)and dolphins surf along the coastline.

•Ilha de Santa CarolinaBoats ferry visitors from Vilankulos and Inhassoro to this isolated place of intensenatural beauty. The hotel here is not operational so island visitors need to carrya plentiful supply of water.

FISHINGMarlin fishing(prime season is Oct–Dec)Black, blue and striped marlinLarge gamefish(Apr/May–Aug/Sep)Sailfish, giant kingfish, wahoo, king mackerel,dorado, bonitoSmaller gamefish(year-round)King mackerel, bonito, trevally, queenmackerelRock & surf fishing(evening high tide)Kingfish, bonito, bonefish, garsNote: Tag and release fishing is the usualpolicy.

BIRDLIFE(+/-164 different species)Green coucalGreen pigeonPurple-banded and black sunbirdOlive bee-eaterMannikinParadise fly-catcherBartailed godwitWhimbrelCrab plover

BAZARUTO NATIONAL PARKParadise lost, nirvana … the powdery feelof sand between your toes, the shadows ofwhispering palms playing out on whitebeaches, aquamarine-cerulean water lappingthe shore – this is what fills your visionwhen you trip onto one of the five islandsmaking up the archipelago. The largest isBazaruto – some 30km (18 miles) by roughly3km (2 miles) – and the tiniest Bangué. In-between, Benguerra, Magaruque and SantaCarolina (or Paradise Island) can all bevisited.In 2000 the Bazaruto National Park officiallyconsisted of a 150km2 marine parkencompassing Benguerra, Magaruque andBangué islands, together with a 5km (3-mile) buffer zone around them. Bazarutoand Santa Carolina were listed as specialvigilance zones, although plans were afootto incorporate these into the national parkin the future. The focus, in the meanwhile,is on allowing tourist development thatbenefits the islanders but also protects theecology of the region and preserves selectedcoral reefs.Park entry tickets must be purchased beforevisiting – try the Vilankulos WWF office orany registered tour operator. A small fee ispayable if you arrive on your own boat; nocamping allowed on the islands.

Bazaruto Archipelago Bazaruto Arc

Lighthouse on Bazaruto Island

45

19 2

Crocodiles

Two MileReef

PansyIsland

Dhows

Guniça Dunes

Complexo SalemaMufundisse Chibique

Pestana BazarutoIsland Lodge

Vilanculos Beach Lodge

Zenguelema (Park HQ)

Benguela Island Lodge

Azura Lodge

Marlin Lodge

Casa Josef & Tina

BazarutoLighthouse

Dona Ana

Ba

za

ru

to

Ar

ch

ip

el

ag

o

Hotel Seta

Indigo BayIsland Resort

H

H

H

Ponta Inhassoro

Ponta Tondo

Ponta Dom Carlos

Ponta Estone

PontaGuniça

PontaGoane

Ponta Gengareme

Ilha de Santa Carolina(Paradise Island)

Ilha do Bazaruto

PontaNhangosse

Ponta Pangaia

Ponta Múlideza

Ponta Chilola

Ponta Inhangondo

Ponta Chuambo

Ponta Dundo

Ponta Muanha

Ponta Chinhongue

Ponta Cúbuê Ponta Cheringomo

Ilha deBenguerra

Ponta Comuine

Ponta Duvini

Ponta Chué

Ilha deMagaruque

Ponta Dundo

CaboBazaruto

Ilha deBangué

BazarutoNational Park

SÓ

VE

ICU

LOS

TO

DO

-TE

RR

EN

O

LagoaNhassasse

LagoaLergue

Cana

l De

Moç

ambi

que

Bábè Marsh

Indigo Bay

Inhassoro

Chuambo

Vilankulo

I n h a m b a n eI n h a m b a n eI n h a m b a n e

EN

1E

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BAIA PARAISO,BLUE WATERS

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NOT TO SCALE

Archipelago Bazaruto Archipelago Baza

46

BazarutoIsland

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102

EN6

EN1

EN1

EN1

EN4

GorongosaNational

ParkGa

Gam

ZinaveNational Park

Reserva de Maputo(Maputo Elephant Reserve)

GreatLimpopo

TransfrontierReserve

BanhineNational

Park

Espungabera

Pontado Ouro

Macarretane

Milange

LisulaCassacatiza

Canxixe

Gorongosa

Chicualacuala MaboteVilankulo

Inhambane

Xai-Xai

52

50

48Beira

MAPUTO

Changara

Zóbuè

Namaacha

Lichinga

Cóbuè

Chimoio

Panhame

Mo

Inhamitanga

Tete

Tourist region maps

Point of interest

Chapter opener maps

42

46

CRY ME A RIVERRiver of legend and intrepid exploration, theZambezi neatly bisects the country into twohalves: the more popular and, today, much-visited southern region (due to its accessibilityfrom both Zimbabwe and South Africa) andthe remoter and sometimes impenetrablenorthern region, influenced more by Malawiand Tanzania. Mozambique’s destructive2001 floods, which prevented the Caia ferryfrom running for weeks, have reinforced theZambezi’s uncanny knack for creatingformidable barriers to movement into thenorth. Flowing dead centre as it does acrossthis sector of the country, this powerfulwaterway is kingpin of the Central Region.

NATURE ON THE REBOUNDMozambique’s central sector embraces threeconservation areas within its fold, the mostimportant of which is Gorongosa. Todaybattered and bruised from its civil-war roleas headquarters for the Rhodesian-backedRenamo resistance movement, it is mostheartening that in late 2007 an official wildlifecount showed an unusually high number ofungulate species (sable, hartebeest andoribi) and a surprisingly rich nocturnal-mammal life, including smaller carnivores.Gili is still wild and untamed (yet with greatpotential) and Marromeu, on the Zambezidelta, is receiving much attention for itsprolific waterbirds – although its previouslymuch-vaunted buffalo herds will take a whileto return to their original numbers.

A BRIDGE TOO FARTravel north across the Central Region iscontrolled by the vagaries of the Zambeziand the country’s long months of summerrain, mainly from November to April, whichtend to swell countless rivers and transformthe sandy, dusty, corrugated roads into anightmarish quagmire. Which is why nothingelse but a 4x4 is recommended to take youinto these parts. Your options of crossingthe Zambezi are few – the impressivesuspension bridge at the heat-pit of Tetetown, the converted (in 1998) railway bridgebetween Sena and Morrumbula (althoughvery bad tracks at either end make itquestionable) and the 22-ton vehicle ferriesat Caia, where it’s essential you sink lazilyinto Africa time. The good news is that 2009is the scheduled completion date for theconstruction of an US$85 million bridge.

Central Region Central Region Centr

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IN

DI

A

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OC

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rutond

MarromeuGame Reserve

GiliReserve

NiassaGame Reserve

Zambezi Delta

Mozambique

Angoche

Alto Molócuè

Pebane

Mecula

Marrupa

Negomano

Namuiranga

FernãoVeloso

Central Region 46

59

57

56

60

54

53

Nampula

Montepuezga

Cuamba

è

Mocímboada Praia

Pemba

Mueda

Mocuba

Quelimane

BEIRA … RELIVE THE MEMORIESThe two attractions most likely to catch theattention of travellers to this neck of theMozambican woods are the port city of Beira(despite these days being distinctly shabby)and the fascinating historical offshore isle,Ilha de Moçambique (yes, old, crumblingand ruined but oh, so slowly rising like aphoenix out of the ashes). ManyZimbabweans and maybe some SouthAfricans have fond memories of the goodold days in Beira, eating spicy pink prawnsat Johnny’s Place, dancing till dawn at theMoulin Rouge or sipping espresso and eatingsweet custard pastries on the European-feelcentral square. These old haunts still exist,though not in their original guise – yet Beiramay still shake off its shabby exterior, fluffout its tail feathers and glitter once more…

WORTH ITS WEIGHT IN CORAL RAGIts cultural and architectural heritage a fusionof Persian, Arabian, Indian, African andPortuguese flavours, Mozambique Islandenraptures most visitors. Dubbed Africa’s‘meeting point of civilisations’, it does,however, present stark contrasts betweenmodern and old. There is great charm in thecenturies-old architecture but there is alsogreat poverty in the island’s village, BarrioMakúti, where the local people live in scruffythatch-and-reed huts, draw fresh water dailyfrom the old underground cisterns at theSan Sebastian fort, and use the beaches fortheir ablutions.

entral Region Central Region Central R

48

As Mozambique’s second largest city afterMaputo, Beira has definitely seen betterdays. In its heyday, before the civil war andindependence, it was a holiday mecca fortravellers from Rhodesia (Zimbabwe today)and South Africa. Then, its position at themouth of the Púngoè and Búzi rivers hadtransformed it into a busy ocean port,particularly since, for the British colony basedin Rhodesia, Beira was their closest harbourlink. Today drab, dirty and rundown, whatremains is a neglected port city. It has thepotential, though, to see a resurrection inthe future as its town centre resonates witha distinct Iberian-cum-European air and thelong curve of Macúti beach is as picturesqueas ever, with its landmark rusty shipwreck(the Macúti) and red-and-white bandedlighthouse, still in perfect nick.

Visitors of old will be sad to witness theabandoned crumbling edifices of the onetimeelegant Estoril and Dom Carlos hotels, butheartened to find that the Moulin Rougewith its trademark red windmill still exists,as does Clube Oceana on the beachfront –and even Johnny’s Place, once legendaryfor its platters of peri-peri prawns. Whereonce the Moulin Rouge hosted wild partyingand all-night dancing, today it’s a livelylunchtime venue for the locals and theirfamilies who eat at long communal tables,filling the place with noise and laughter.Pique Nique oozes class and is among Beira’sbest, while Clube Nautico on the shorelineturns out great seafood and chips. Torecapture the old Portuguese-style vibrations,head for the central square, Praça doMunicipio, and sip an espresso at a pavementcafé set beneath shady trees.

H

H

H H

H

H

H

Municipal Square

BusTerminal

Long DistanceBus Terminus

Clube Chinés

Observatory

RedCross

Portugal House

Bicos House

Ship Graveyard

PortugueseCultural Centre

ZimbabweanEmbassy

ShopriteSupermarket

BeiraRailway Station

Cinema

Cinema

Cinema

Library

Estação

Arcadia

Clube de Golfe

Clube Oceana

Military Zone(Zona Militar)

No Entry

Goto Market(T'Shungamoyo)

Cathedral of ourLady of the Rosary

Mercado doMaquinino

Infanta Sagres House

Praia Nova(New Beach)

Market

CentralMarket

A

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INDIAN OCEAN

Púng

oè

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MAPU

TO

SO

FALA

MOUZINHO DE

ALBUQUERQUE

AV. DE MAIO

SAMUEL MAGAIA

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CAP. P RAMOS

PADRE RM ASSUNCAO

MOUZINHO DE ALBUQUERQUE

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BASE N

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HIN

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A CASTILHO

CORREIRA DE BRITO

ARMANDO TIVANE

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ALVÃO EDUARDO MONDLANE

BAGAMOYO

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ARMANDO TIVANEALFREDO LAWLEY

CABO VERDE

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MATUES SANSÃO MUTEMBA

ANDRADE CORVO

A DO CANTO RESENDEMETICALSQUARE

TRABALHADORESSQUARE

DA QJMSQUARE

CONTINUADORESSQUARE

Maquinino

Doca deBarcos

Pequenos

Campo de Golfe

Cemetery

Savoy

MiramarHotel Grande

(Derelict)

HotelBeira

Mozambique

Infante Embaixador

EN6, DONDO, CHIMOIO,INCHOPE, ZIMBABWE

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Beira Beira Beira Beira Beira Beira B

49

v

MaquinioMarket

25 de JunhoCommercial School

Samora MachelSecondary School

Clubeda Beira

CAPITÃO PAIS RAMOS

FREI JOÃO MADEIRA

BRITO CAPELO

FERNÃO VELOSO

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ÃO

DA

NO

VA

JOAO QUIERO

GJU

NQ

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IRO

COM. C DA SILVA

L COELHO

T COELHO

ALFREDO LAWLEY

JOÃ

O S

EPU

LVED

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CC BRANCO

A HERCULANO

PERO DA COVILHÃ

PERO DA COVILHÃ

24 D

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ULH

O

SP

OR

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ALFREDO

LAWLEY

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OPES D

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ASTA

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24 D

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IVE

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CAPIT

ÃE

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AV. DE NAPULA

R PORTOAMÈLIA

JOÃO BATISTA IGREJA

B

DIAS

INDEPÉNDENCIASQUARE

AIR

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RT

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CÚ

TI

a Beira Corridor Beira Corridor Beira C50

25

Km

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1213

22 64

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2018

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28

82

37

62

29

30

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96

2060

70

45

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Exit Only (No Customs)

Border Hours06:00 – 18:00

H

Drift(Low-water

Crossing only)

WeighBridge

OdzaniFalls

h

Cultural Centre

HotSprings

Rock Paintings

10 Tonne Ferry

ChinizviaForest

1214 m

2436 m

Dokodoko

Monte Binga214

213

EN6214

431

216

441

EN6

EN1A9

Barragem deChicamba Real

Revué

Muda

Púngoè

Chimanimani NP

GorongosaNP

Cashel

Watsomba

Nyanyadzi

Stapleford

Rotanda

Tsetsserra

Chicamba

Mavita

Dombe

Inchope

Nhamatanda

Nova Almada Buzi

Dondo

Semacueza

Macuácua

RioSavane

ManicaBandua

MuanzaManica

Bandula

Nova Vanduzi

Gondola

Nota

Chitengo

GorongosaMavonde

CasaMsika Bué

Maria

Penhalonga

Revué

Muda

Chimanimani

Chimoio

Mutare

Beira

M O Z A M B I Q U EM O Z A M B I Q U EM O Z A M B I Q U E

Z I M B A B W EZ I M B A B W EZ I M B A B W E

COMACHE, GURO, TETE CAIA

CHIBOMA

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Lighthouse in Beira

50

GETTING THERETo make your bookings or garner updatedinformation on Gorongosa, visit their officesin Beira at the Predio Infante de Sagro(Manhica Freight building).Leaving Beira, a more adventurous backroute to Gorongosa is via a right-turn atDondo onto the EN213 (signpost saysCheringoma). Know that adventure comeswith downright difficult roads – the routeto Muanza is very bad, and during the rains,definitely negotiable with 4x4 only; turn leftat Muanza to get to Chitengo Camp (theonly facilities in the park). Alternatively,continuing north to Inhaminga, then turningleft, takes you to Mt Gorongosa. For thesafe option, stay on the EN6, rememberingthe testing stretch to Tica. After Inchope,turn right onto the resurfaced N1 (relief!) –but be wary of the 100kph (60mph) speedlimit, which often drops to 80kph (50mph).Some 45km (30 miles) further, turn right toParque Nacional da Gorongosa onto a decentsingle gravel road, driving another 11km(7 miles) to the main gate. After bookingin, Chitengo Camp is 17km (10 miles) away.

PANS, GRASSLAND & SAVANNAHSituated at the southern end of the GreatEast African Rift Valley, the 4000km2 (1544sq miles) park comprises the valley floorinterrupted in places by various surroundingplateaus, while rivers flowing from MtGorongosa (1862m/6109ft) ensure the manypans brim over. The Púnguè River definespart of the park’s southern border. Mainlysavannah with some forest-woodland, therest of the park is grassland interspersedwith clumps of acacia. For much of the year,about one-fifth of this grassland is flooded(the park is closed Nov–Apr due to therains). Sep–Oct is a popular time to visit.This well-watered habitat is nirvana for birds– which is why, according to the park, thereare over 400 different species.

CHITENGO SAFARI CAMPRecent extensive renovations (which areongoing) have produced nine new air-conditioned thatched rondavels (or cabanas),with mosquito nets and ensuite toilets.These are served by a bar and restaurant,whose three meals focus on ‘authenticMozambican’ cuisine. Future plans arefocusing on another restaurant, bar and poolwith inspiring views across a pan visited bywild animals.

FROM THE OLD…Civil conflict and Gorongosa’s unlucky roleas Renamo’s headquarters succeeded inshutting down the park in 1983 (it officiallyreopened in 1995). The devastating factstands that the park’s large mammal numberswere reduced by as much as 95%. All thatremained of the building structures werecrumbling bullet-riddled walls and a sadlyderelict pool. The Casa dos Leões ruins,once a kiosk and viewing point, thrilledvisitors with its promises of lion lolling lazilyin the grasslands, while the imposing two-storey restaurant and bar at Mira Hipo –today the shell of a viewing platform – haddiners watching hippo submerging andresurfacing in ‘hippo lake’.

Gorongosa National Park Gorongosa

MonteGorongosa

1862m

40

20

17

9

22

29

29

69

13

30

GorongosaNational Park(Closed due toflooding, from

November 31 to April 30)

Drift (Low-waterCrossing Only)

Dry Season Crossing Only

Entrance

SENA

CH

IMO

IOS

AV

E

BEIRA

Chitengo

Bué Maria

Muda

Nota

Gorongosa

Inchope

Nhamadzi

Tica

Cruzado

Nhamatanda

CandaVanduzi

EN6

215

N

20

10

Km

Mi

30

Chitengo Camp

51

TO THE NEWEnormously reassuring and uplifting newscomes from a series of wildlife surveysundertaken in late 2007 by the GorongosaRestoration Project. These included aerialcounts and night surveys, so that nocturnalspecies got a look-in too. The results: anamazing recovery of many ungulate species.Gorongosa unbelievably supports some ofthe best numbers of sable antelope,Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and oribi (191 atlast count); 507 waterbuck were recorded,plenty of bushbuck and reedbuck, and thefirst sighting of steenbok since the 1950s.Elephant (300 were tallied in 2007), hippoand prolific crocodile also made theirappearance, while African buffalo and bluewildebeest have been reintroduced. Themuch sadder statistics centre on thecarnivores – hyena, jackal, and lion – presentbut not in great number, while Selous zebrahas all but disappeared. Nocturnal carnivoresspotted and ticked off include African civet,large spotted genet and serval.

osa National Park Gorongosa Nationa

20

1817

9

22

AcampamentoEntranceGate

Drift (Low-waterCrossing Only)

Lion HouseLago Urema

Buffalo

Elephant

LagoaMareze

LagoaNhamichindo

LagoaNhansato

LagoaDo Paraiso

LagoaNhamutengo

Ure

ma

Pú

ngoè

Mucombeze

Missicadzi

Púngoè

Vund

uzi

Mucoza

GorongosaNational Park

(Closed due to flooding,from November 31 to April 30)

INC

HO

PE

NHAMATANDA

MUERA

Picada de UremaBué Maria

Nota

Gorongosa

Casa dos Leoes

Miradoure de Sungue

Mira Hippo

Chitengo

N

20

10

Km

Mi

34° 4' 29" E18° 40' 41" S

34° 6' 6" E19° 0' 7" S

EN1

215

Gorongosa National Park

0860 10 50 50www.mapstudio.co.za R O A D A T L A S

PERFECT FOR THE FIRST TIME VISITOR E COLOUR PHOTOS DETAILED CONTINUOUS MAP SECTION E STREET MAPS

TOURIST AREAS E SITES E PLACE NAMES INDEX CONTACT INFO E SMALL TOWNS E RESERVES

NATIONAL PARKS E ROUTE PLANNER ACTIVITIES E HOT SPOTS E HISTORY

GPS CO-ORDINATES

NEW INCLUDESGPS CO-ORDINATES

SINCE 1958Qual

ity M

aps

www.mapstudio.co.za

T R A V E L

1st Edition © Map Studio™ 2009All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape,

mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the Copyright owner.

Map Studio and the MapStudio device are trademarked to New Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd

Cover image supplied by IMAGES OF AFRICA www.imagesofafrica.co.za

Ian Michler

ISBN 978-1-77026-030-6

9 781770 260306

MOZAMBIQUE

RO

AD

AT

LA

S M

OZ

AM

BIQ

UE