National Safe Boating Council

STUDENT TRAINING MANUALFirst Edition — 2013

OpenWater BoatControl

Tim

othy Delgado, courtesy of the C

onnecticut Departm

ent of Energy and E

nvironmental P

rotection

Acknowledgements

Development of a concise manual like the Open Water Boat Control Student Training Manual is not an easy or quick endeavor. The team of National Safe Boating Council (NSBC) Instructors who spearheaded this program’s development was guided by the design and methodology of the Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control Manual and training program. The bar was set high from that previous, successful work. I believe they have surpassed that prior effort.

Open Water Boat Control focuses on the set of critical skills needed by a boat operator to proceed away from the comparative lower risk of protected water and venture into open water to open the throttle and cruise safely and efficiently. Determination of the needed skill sets was not simple.The authors’ approach to boat control on open water is combined with a solid understanding of boat design, propulsion and environmental conditions that influence boat handling coupled with proper decision-making for the novice boater. Each skill was studied, practiced, and observed with the goal to create a logical, easy-to-follow learning progression.

I wish to acknowledge and thank the team of NSBC instructors and trainers who made this program happen. Team leader Emily King (NSBC Training Director), Doug Golding, Betsy Woods and Captain Jeff Gunn were the writers. They were assisted by some of the finest instructors inthe United States, including Captain Ed Huntsman, Captain Jim Battye and Cindy Bellar.The significant contributions of these instructors have gone beyond those of subject matter experts.Each has a deep dedication and commitment to safer and enjoyable boating. Their commitment is seen in this new approach to instruction for on-water skills. I also thank Debbie Huntsman, Designer/Illustrator; Ruthie Marlenée, Editor; Sheila Chappell, NSBC Office Manager; and Fred Messmann, NSBC Deputy Director, who also helped to edit and proof the manual.

A special thanks to our Technical Grant Manager, Mr. Mike Baron, U.S. Coast Guard Headquarters (Washington D.C.), and to the U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety Division Office of Auxiliaryand Boating Safety for the administering grant support from the Sport Fish Restoration and Boating Trust Fund, which funded development of the Open Water Boat Control Student Training Manual. Finally, a huge thank you goes to the men and women of the Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Watercraft, Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, Connecticut Department of Energy and Environmental Protection and the Arizona Fish and Game Department for support with on-water sites and boats. Their contributions, feedback, and insight as pilot training agencies served to greatly advance this program. We hope their contributions will be returned to them in the advancement and refinement of safe boat operation in their areas of oversight and protection.

A special note: This manual is a working document and will be updated as the program grows and technology changes to stay on the cutting edge of training. I am sure the individuals identified above will insist on it! On behalf of boaters nationwide, thanks to each of you, and all others who helped in producing the NSBC Open Water Boat Control program.

Virgil Chambers, Executive Director National Safe Boating Council

TABLE OF CONTENTS

BEFORE YOU BEGIN Arrows and Wakes in Graphics 1 Purpose 2 Student Prerequisites 2 Responsibility 2 Proper Lookout 2 Safe Speed 2 Risk of Collision 3 Action to Avoid Collision 3 Environmental Awareness 3 Equipment 3 Terminology 3 Disclaimer 3

Basic Hull Design and Performance 4 Directional Thrust 4 Pivot Point 4 Transition from Displacement to Planing Mode 5 Transition from Planing to Displacement Mode 5 Recognize Minimum Planing RPM 5

Boat Trim 6 Engine Trim 6 Trim Tabs 6 Porpoising 7 Chine Walking 7

Steering the Boat 8 Steering Straight on Plane 8 Gradual Turns on Plane 8 Sharp Turns on Plane 9 Avoidance Turns 10

Stopping Under Control 11 Coasting Stop from Plane 11 Urgency Stop from Plane 12 Emergency Stop from Plane 12

PERFORMANCE

TRIM

TURNS

STOPS

BOAT HANDLING IN WAKES AND WAVES

BOAT HANDLING IN WIND

Crossing Wakes and Waves 13

Weathervane Effect 14 Ferrying and Ferry Angle in Wind 14 Holding Station in Wind 15BOAT

HANDLING IN CURRENT

Current Terms 16 Ferrying and Ferry Angle in Current 16 Holding Station in Current 17EMERGENCIES AND

RESCUES Retrieving a Person from Overboard 18 Heavy Weather 19GLOSSARY OF

BOATING TERMS AND PHRASES

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

A Message from the

Executive Director

This Open Water Boat Control Student Training Manual is the guide for the second segment of the National Safe Boating Council’s boat operator training program. Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control is the initial training that should be successfully completed before embarking on the skills and maneuvers discussed in this manual. It is not because the skills in the second segment are more difficult, because they are not. It is because the close-quarters training provides the fundamental knowledge of how a boat operates. These skills are carried out through this next phase under safe, competent boat operation and control.

In this second segment, the operator is out in the open water under calm conditions. An understanding of equipment, terminology, and basic operator preparedness is discussed and reviewed. The concepts of safe operation are applied with the theoretical knowledge of boat control along with theU.S. Inland Navigation Rules governing how one responds to other boats on the open water.This training, unlike the Close-Quarters Boat Control, permits the student to operate beyond the slow/idle speed. Wind and current still affect the boat’s operation and should be accounted for during some of the skills presented. Remember, the same principles apply as they did inClose-Quarters Boat Control. New topics such as boat and engine trim, minimum planing revolutions per minute (RPM), maneuvers while on plane, avoidance turns and crossing wakes and waves will be properly demonstrated and accomplished. When correctly practiced and applied,the skills covered in this manual combined with those learned in the Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control will give you the basics for being a safe and responsible boat operator.

Safe and enjoyable boating,

Virgil Chambers Executive DirectorNational Safe Boating Council

throttle at idle RPM

throttle at displacement RPM (above idle)

boat in planing mode and throttle is being reduced for maneuvers or turns

throttle at planing RPM

wake in plowing

Throttle direction setting arrows in graphics Arrow(s) at the stern of the boat show(s) the direction in which the propulsion and steering wheel are acting on the stern. An arrow pointing aft indicates reverse gear; if pointing forward, forward gear. Arrows do not indicate the direction the boat is moving because engine(s) can be in reverse while a boat is making headway. Absence of an arrow means neutral.

reverse gear forward gear

neutral

Steering direction setting arrows in graphics Arrow(s) at the stern of the boat also indicate(s) the propulsion and steering setting and turns as gradual or sharp.

gradual (wide) turn(in displacement)

sharp (tight) turn(in displacement)

gradual turn(planing)

sharp turn(planing reducing RPM)

Wakes provide further information on the boat state and speed.

wake in displacement turning in displacement

wake in planing turning(planing reducing RPM)

making neither headway or sternway

Wind arrows in graphics Arrows representing the wind direction are labeled as such and show the direction of the wind’s travel. The arrows always point downwind, to leeward.

Current arrows in graphicsArrows representing the direction of the current in the water.

Ferry arrows in graphicsArrows representing the ferry direction of the boat over the water.

WIND

WIND

Arrows and Wakes in Graphics

Throttle revolutions per minute (RPM) setting arrows in graphics

1

Before You Begin Wakes in graphics

Risk of CollisionEvery boat/vessel shall use all available means appropriate to the prevailing circumstances and conditions to determine if risk of collision exists. If in doubt, such risk shall exist.

Action to Avoid CollisionAny action taken to avoid collision shall be positive, made in ample time and with due regard to good seamanship. Any alteration of course or speed shall be substantial to be readily apparent to another boat/vessel observing visually or by radar. Action taken shall result in passing at a safe distance. If necessary to avoid collision, a boat/vessel shall slacken speed, stop or reverse.

Environmental AwarenessFun on the water depends on weather and water conditions. A boater learns through experiences to observe the changes in the wind, clouds, waves and current. As skills progress, the boater will be able to handle more challenging conditions. A boater always needs to be aware of any changing conditions.

This course is to be conducted during daylight hours in normal, calm conditions, as well as in light-to-gentle breeze conditions. Water conditions should be preferably calm but depending on the boat and students, the training may be conducted in choppy conditions.

EquipmentBoats to be used in this course must be wheel-steered, stern-drive (I/O) or outboard powered, with either single or twin engines, and ideally of center-console design.The boat should be in the range of 18–26 feet in length. The boat needs to have enough seating and standing area for a minimum of four students and one instructor when underway. The boat should have an engine stop lanyard or an emergency stop switch.

Gear shifting and throttle functions should be combined in one lever for each engine. All of the boat’s mechanical systems must be working properly. Trim tabs and engine(s) position(s) will be taught in the course as applicable.

TerminologyDescriptions of the skills in this course utilize a high degree of accuracy in terminology. To prevent confusion, the student must have a complete understanding of the terminology used throughout the text and on the water.

The glossary provides many definitions of terms used throughout the manual. Words shown in italic bold are included in the glossary.

The following is a review of terms from the Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control that will also be used in this course. The following terms describe the gear that the boat is in, not necessarily the direction of movement for the boat.Forward Reverse Neutral Headway Sternway

in forward gear in reverse gear out of gearmoving forward through the water moving backward through the water

Below are more terms used throughout this course.

Heading the direction the boat is traveling

Maximum Displacement RPMthe upper end of displacement mode. It is the point just before the bow starts to rise slightly and begins plowing.

Minimum Planing RPMthe lower end of planing mode. It is the point just on plane when the boat levels off and before speed increases. The throttle must be reduced to maintain this desired speed. If the throttle is reduced too much, the boat will lose speed, the bow will rise, and the boat will have missed the desired speed, and may return to plowing mode.

DisclaimerThis course and text use certain techniques to keep the novice safe while skill and experience are gained. To a degree, the techniques are subjective, due in part to the wide range of factors influencing boat handling. Boat design is a major factor. Discovering how a specific boat performs can only be accomplished on the water.Therefore, a disclaimer is warranted. This content cannot guarantee a positive outcome; thus it carries no warranty, expressed or implied.

INTRODUCTION TO OPEN WATER BOAT CONTROL

2 3

PurposeThis course is intended to train a boat operator to control a boat in normal daytime, calm open water “cruising”situations. It builds upon the step-by-step skills the student learned in the Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control Course. This course provides instruction of basic boat control skills, primarily through hands-on training on the water with a certified instructor. It will enable the novice and even the experienced boater to gain confidence and to have safer and more enjoyable boating experiences.

The goal of this manual is to introduce the basic boat handling concepts along with terminology to augment and reinforce the on-water training. The student boater can study this information prior to actual instruction. Thismanual can also be used on the water to clarify instruction through its illustrations. This manual is not intended to teach skills without the assistance of an instructor.

The best way to learn boat control is through instruction, study and actual hands-on experience. This course will provide the step-by-step skills and then have you, the student, apply them to actual maneuvers. First, the skills will be conducted in displacement mode. As student proficiency is developed, the skills will then be performed in planing mode. Each boat is different, so part of the exploration will be to find the boat’s ideal cruising speed for the skills in this course. This ideal cruising speed is when the boat levels off on plane and speed begins to increase. The throttle must be reduced to reach the cruising speed. If the throttle is reduced too much, the boat will lose speed and the bow will rise. The point on plane where the bow levels off and before it increases speed will be called the minimum planing RPM for this training course. For this training course, the skills will be performed at the minimum planing RPM — no faster.

Student PrerequisitesStudents must have completed a National Safe Boating Council (NSBC) Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control Course prior to this training course. They must also have completed a National Association of State Boating Law Administrators (NASBLA)-approved basic boating safety course as well as meet the legal requirements of the state where the course is being conducted.

Students must have a good theoretical knowledge of basic boating practices. The U.S. Inland Navigation Rules will be complied with at all times and students will apply the Steering and Sailing Rules as they meet boats throughout this training course. They will also need to be familiar with aids to navigation and adhere to the meaning and regulatory instructions of these aids.

ResponsibilityOpen bodies of water are gateways to various boating activities, including cruising, water skiing, tubing, PWCs, paddling, etc. Nothing will exonerate any vessel,operator, owner, master or crew from the consequences of complying with the U.S. Inland Navigation Rules, or of neglecting any required precaution by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances of the case.

In complying with the rules, due regard shall be given to all dangers of navigation and collision and to any special circumstances, including the limits of the vessels involved, which may make a departure from these rules necessary to avoid immediate danger.

Proper LookoutEvery boat shall, at all times, maintain a proper look-out by sight and hearing as well as by all available means appropriate in the prevailing circumstances and conditions so as to make a full appraisal of the situation and the risk of collision.

This skill involves a constant awareness of other boats and potential hazards in the environment. The operator must continuously make 360 degree scans of the area and pay most attention in the direction the boat is travelling. This monitoring of boats, hazards, water conditions and weather is called situational awareness. The studentshall maintain this situational awareness and constantly evaluate all contacts to ensure risk of collision does not occur. This is necessary as our boat or other boats may change course and/or speed at any time that shall require the student to take action to avoid collision. This action is a determination of whether our boat is the stand-on or give-way vessel. This skill is an ongoing process from beginning to the end of the voyage.

Safe SpeedBoating varies during the different days of the week with the number of boats on the waterway, daytime versus nighttime, the presence of background light at night, visibility including fog, calm versus waves, the stopping and turning abilities of your boat, and the draft in relation to the depth of the water. All these factors must be taken into account in determining a safe speed. Even during the course, minimum planning RPM may be too fast for the current conditions. Adjustments will be made for each boat to proceed at a safe speed so that it can take proper and effective action to avoid collision and be stopped within a distance appropriate to the prevailing circumstances and conditions.

Boat hulls have many different designs and are usually built for a specific purpose or type of operation. These hull types include displacement hulls, semi-displacement hulls and planing hulls. Displacement hulls are large hulls with a lot of draft and are designed for slow speeds and carrying large loads for cargo or passengers. It takes a smaller engine or engines to power it up to its maximum speed, usually no greater than ten to fifteen knots.

This manual is designed to address the characteristics and operation of planing hull boats. Planing hulls are designed with a flatter bottom with a vee forward. With sufficient power and at a fast speed, the hull will ride up or planeon the water. Planing hulls need a lot of power and speed to get the boat up out of the water and on plane. Semi- displacement hulls are a combination of the displacement and planing hulls, and can make better speed than a displacement hull but will never plane.

All boats, regardless of hull design, are in displacement mode at slow speeds. The Close-Quarters Boat Control course covered all skills in displacement mode. This Open Water course will cover both displacement and planing and the transition to and from each mode.

Directional ThrustIn the Open Water course, we will be using boats which are powered by outboard engines or inboard/outboard (I/O) engines for propulsion. In a conventional inboard powered boat, the propeller is fixed on the shaft and relies on rudder action to turn the boat. On an outboard or I/O, the propeller is mounted on the bottom of the lower unit. The entire outboard or the lower unit of an I/O swings right or left as the steering wheel is turned. The lower units of outboards and I/O’s are designed as foils and act as rudders helping to turn the boat. When all power is taken off and the boat is in neutral, the boat will maintain steering by rudder control as long as there is residual headway or sternway.

The big advantage of directed thrust is the high-pressure discharge current directed to one side of the boat pushing the stern of the boat into a turn with much greater efficiency. This directed thrust provides extremely effective directional control when powering ahead or astern. With the wheel centered and in forward gear, the boat will steer straight because the directed thrust is aimed straight astern. As the wheel is turned in forward gear, the stern is pushed to the right or left as a result of the thrust being directed in either direction. If you want to make a right turn, turn the wheel to the right. The lower unit angles towards the right side of the transom and the directed thrust pushes the stern to the left.

As the stern moves to the left, the bow then turns to the right with the stern swinging rapidly to the left, and the bow moving much slower to the right. It is best to monitor the amount of your turn by observing the stern movement.

In reverse gear, the stern is pulled to the right or left.In reverse, directional thrust is not as powerful as forward because of the inefficiency of the propeller in reverse.That being said, directed thrust in reverse does pull the stern in the desired direction much more efficiently than an inboard powered boat.If we want to back to the right, turn the wheel right and shift into reverse. The directed thrust of the propeller in reverse will pull the stern to the right. The stern will move slowly to the right, but be aware of the rapid swing of the bow to the left. Keep it in control.

The increased efficiency and relative ease of maneuvering using directed thrust from an outboard or I/O has attributed to the overwhelming popularity of these engines instead of the old straight inboard engine with a fixed prop and rudder.Pivot PointAs a boat turns, it pivots on its axis which will be located along the centerlineof the boat somewhere between the bow and stern. The pivot point location will vary in boats depending on hull design,trim, water conditions and boat speed. When a boat is in forward gear and making headway, or moving ahead, the typical pivot point is about one third back from the bow.

When in reverse gear and having sternway, the pivot point moves aft to a spot somewhere one third to one quarter from the stern. As the boat turns around the pivot point in forward gear, the stern travels more quickly and in a much larger radius than the bow. It is advisable to watch the stern as the boat progresses through the turn. In reverse, the pivot point moves well aft as the directed thrust pulls the stern either right or left. Keep a sharp eye on the bow as it will swing quickly and can easily get out of control.

The pivot point may move aft as a boat transitions from displacement speed to planing speed. As the boat comes onto a plane, as much as one third of the forward hull may ride above the water and the pivot point may be as far back as the middle of the boat on center line. At high speed,the combination of directed thrust and a lot of rudder effect from the lower unit can cause a lot of turning inertia and the boat may slide sideways. If this happens, slow down.Trimming the boat by adjusting load or using trim tabs may also have an effect on the pivot point. Take your time in getting the feel of your boat. Don’t use any more speed or turn of the wheel than necessary. While underway, observe proper seamanship and safety at all times.Transition FromDisplacement to Planing Mode

Handling a planing hull in displacement mode requires minimal throttle to power the boat forward. When it is time to transition from displacement to planing mode, ensure the boat and all occupants are ready for the increase in speed. Announce “coming up” so all can hear and “hold on.” Situational awareness must be maintained at all times while underway. With one hand on the wheel and onehand on the throttle, increase power briskly and smoothly while steering straight. If too much power is applied and the propeller cavitates, slow down and try again. As power increases, the bow will rise as the hull attempts to climb over the bow wave. As the boat enters planing mode,the speed will increase and the boat will level out. The throttle may now be reduced to bring the boat to its desired cruising speed. If the throttle is reduced too much, the boat will lose speed and the bow will begin to rise, plowing through the water. Speed will need to be increased again to get back to planing speed.

Transition FromPlaning to Displacement ModeWhen it is time to come down off plane back to displacement mode, announce loud enough for all to hear “coming down.” With one hand on the wheel and the other on the throttle, reduce throttle slowly and smoothly while steering straight. The boat will lose speed, thebow will begin to rise and the stern will drop. Continue to reduce speed until you have reached idle speed while maintaining bow control. The stern will rise as the stern wave passes under the boat from stern to bow. The boat has now resumed displacement mode. Do not slow downtoo quickly as there will be rapid deceleration and the sternwake may cause flooding by coming over low transoms.

Recognize Minimum Planing RPMFor most planing boats, the ideal cruising speed for optimum fuel efficiency and comfort is just above the point wherethe boat levels out on plane. Boat engine(s) and trim tabs are adjusted to find that smooth and comfortable ride, if applicable. Speed is also dependent on the environment and weather conditions. Cruising speed will need to be adjusted while assessing factors such as boat traffic, visibility, wind, current, hazards, etc. For the purposes of this course, theNSBC uses the term minimum planing RPM for the highest speed that students will be learning and performing the skills without adjusting motor trim or trim tabs. Engine trim and trim tabs’ adjustments will be learned later on in the course.The minimum planing RPM is the moment when the boat levels out on plane and the throttle is reduced until just before the boat starts to return to plowing and displacement mode. The throttle is increased just enough to keep the boat on level plane. This speed is the lower end of planing mode.

Performance

Basic Hull Design and Performance

Displacement mode

4 5

Plowing mode Planing mode

Trim

Boat TrimThe safe and efficient operation of a boat requires that the boat be in balance or boat trim. Trim means that asthe boat sits in the water, it is level from bow to stern and side-to-side. The boat will not operate efficiently and may be unsafe if the bow or stern is too low, or if the boat lists to one side. A boat sitting in the water with its load of fuel and installed equipment is designed to be in trim.As people, supplies and gear are loaded, the boat may become unlevel, or “out of trim.” Before departing, all the gear and supplies must be evenly distributed and properly stowed to ensure the boat regains trim.

Passengers and crew may need to be moved around to a comfortable and safe place to balance the boat to ensure trim and stability. Passengers shall not be seated in a dangerous place such as bow or gunwale riding to achieve trim. Other weight should be moved instead. This process needs tobe monitored during the trip and adjusted as necessary to ensure trim is maintained. As fuel is burned and food and beverages are consumed, the load will lighten. Passengers will move around, so trimming the boat is an ongoing process and must be maintained accordingly.

Engine TrimFurther trimming of the boat may also require raising and lowering the outboard engine or outdrive on an inboard/ outboard engine. Engine trim is the angle of the motor in relation to the hull. The ideal trim angle is the one in which the boat rides level, with most of the hull on the surface instead of plowing through the water. The optimal trim setting will vary depending on many factors including speed, hull design, weight and balance, and conditions on the water (wind and waves).

Most boats have a tilt/trim switch used to raise and lower the engine or outdrive. The tilt function is a small electric or hydraulic motor which raises the engine up out of the water, or lowers the engine into the water. This enables the engine to be moved up or down for servicing or taking the boat out of the water. Once the engine is lowered into the water with the tilt/trim switch, it should be actuated until the lower unit is all the way down into the lowered position. The sound of the electric motor will change in

pitch when it is all the way down. While the boat is being operated in slow speed, displacement mode, the trim should be all the way down or trimmed in. You may want to consider raising the engine or trimming out if the water is very shallow, but be sure to lower the unit, or trim in before increasing the throttle.

When you are in open water and it is safe to increase speed and go up onto plane, follow the directions of going up onto plane as described in this manual. Keeping your engine trimmed in will bring the boat onto plane quicker, especially with a heavy load. Keeping trimmed in will also give a softer ride in choppy waters because the bow is down and the vee hull in the bow cuts the chop. Once you are on plane at your desired speed and the water is calm, you may raise or trim out the engine using the tilt/ trim switch. The bow will rise and the RPM’s will increase untilthe boat finds its most efficient trim angle. Trimming out too much will cause the bow to rise excessively, and may cause the boat to bounce or porpoise. Further trimming out will cause the RPM’s to drop and the propeller will cavitate.The boat will lose speed, plow and go off plane. If this happens, trim back in until the boat rides smoothly and efficiently.To review, when on plane, adjusting the propeller closer to the transom or trimming in, raises the transom and pushes the bow down. Trimming out or adjusting the propeller away from the transom, lowers the stern and raises the bow.

Trim TabsIn addition to the engine or lower unit trim/tilt function for trimming the boat, trim tabs are another method of finetuning the trim and ride of a boat. They provide lift in order to compensate for changes in speed, weight distribution and water conditions. Trim tabs are stainless steel flaps or planes that are mounted on the transom. The tabs are adjusted up and down by a hydraulic power unit which is controlled from two switches at the boat’s helm console.In the up position, the tabs are in line with the bottom of the hull and have little or no effect. When the tabs are lowered, the water pressure on the tabs’ surface creates upward pressure. This raises the stern and lowers the bow. This results in better speed with lower RPM and increased fuel efficiency. Trim tabs will also trim out the boat both fore-and-aft and side-to-side. The tabs may be used to correct a small list on either side. If the port side is higher because of a heavier load on the starboard side, the port side may be lowered by extending the starboard trim tab. This is a nice feature to help trim the boat side-to-side, but the prudent skipper should redistribute weight within

Trim tabs and engine trim/tilt are great tools in helping to keep your boat balanced, efficient and, most of all, safe. Using one system or both together is unique to the boat on which it is installed. Thorough training and practice is needed to learn the operation and effects these systems have on that particular boat. Remember, boat loading,weight and sea conditions will have an ever-changing effect on how boats handle, and how they need to be trimmed. It is important to understand these tools, and use them to your advantage.

PorpoisingPorpoising is a continual, rhythmic up and down bouncing motion of the bow. It is not caused by wave action or choppy seas. It is a result of trimming out your outboard or lower unit raising the bow too high. The lower unit should be lowered back down or trimmed in, which will lower the bow and stop the bouncing. The trim tabs may also be used to lower the bow to stop porpoising. It may also be corrected by proper trimming of the passengers and gear in the boat, ensuring good balance and stability. This trimming of the boat by moving passengers and gear should be completed before getting underway and should be observed and corrected throughout the trip.

Chine WalkingA chine is the edge of the boat’s hull where the sides meet the bottom of the boat. When a boat is operating at a fast speed in planing mode, much of the forward part of the hull may be out of the water. The boat is actually riding on the

flatter aft section of the hull with only a small part of the hull in the water. In this situation, the boat is very sensitive to steering and a small turn of the wheel will have a quick and sharp response to a change in the boat’s direction.As speed increases, the boat may start a rhythmical roll from side-to-side (chine-to-chine).

The operator’s reaction is to quickly steer the boat back to its original heading. The boat may get very difficult to steer as it swings back and forth and rolls from side-to-side causing loss of control, and possibly spinning out into a capsize. This veering back and forth is called chine walking. The boat may roll or fall off to one side away from its original balanced position. If the turn and roll is severe enough, the boat may slide and list to the outside of the turn and expose the chine to the water resulting in a violent deceleration to that side of the boat. The sudden sliding out of control or rapid deceleration from catching a chine may result in ejecting passengers or the operator, and possibly even tripping the boat and causing it to roll over and capsize.

Chine walking may be caused by sloppy helm control, choppy surface conditions, improper trim or too much play in the steering cables. Chine walking must be correctedor stopped before it gets out of control and causes an accident. Methods to stop chine walking are making slow, continuous, properly timed steering corrections. If that doesn’t work, then slow down gradually, never rapidly;or try trimming the boat using engine tilt/trim or trim tabs. Have your mechanic check to see if the steering cables are tight. Slack in cables or low hydraulic steering fluid may cause sloppy steering resulting in poor wheel control.

In this course, we will operate at minimum planing RPM and chine walking should not be a problem. However, please know, at higher speeds most boats are prone to chine walking and can quickly cause a dangerous situation.

Raised trim tabs have little effect

Lowered trim tabs raise the stern and lower the bow

Level In Out the boat to keep the boat balanced and in trim.

6 7

Steering The BoatSteering a boat is drastically different than steering a car. This is quite evident when watching a new boater trying to operatea boat. The natural reaction is to treat the boat like a car which steers from the front, with the back following through the turn. The boater may soon realize that the stern is swinging out of control and impacting piers, and other boats. A good example of this is when the rear of a car slides while turning on ice. With a little training, the operator learns that a boat actually steers from the stern.This topic is briefly covered in the Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control Student Training Manual.A boat is steered by using a rudder.The propeller generates a high-pressure discharge current which flows across the rudder. When the rudder is centered or amidships, the boat will steer straight.As the wheel is turned, the rudder also turns deflecting the discharge current. This deflection causes the stern of the boat to swing in the desired direction, turning the boat either right or left. The more the wheel is turned, the more the rudder isturned increasing rudder surface area for the discharge current to push on, increasing the tightness of the turn. As throttle is increased, the discharge current or thrust is also increased resulting in more water running across the rudder, thereby increasing the speed of the turn. This method has been used for centuries and works for both power and sail boats.Steering Straight on PlaneWhile underway, observe proper seamanship and safety at all times. Operating in open water on plane intensifies the boat’s response to steering adjustments. The operator mustbe alert to any changes in heading that might require a quick response. The response must be prompt and minimal.With the left hand on wheel, steer straight. The right hand will be free to assist with steering and increase or decrease throttle as needed to maintain minimum planing RPM. Keep the left hand in one place on the wheel to determine how far to turn the wheel

back to center to straighten out for steering straight (as shown in graphic on the left). While steering straight, keep your focus on your distant object while keeping a proper lookout all around and with occasional glances to the gauges.

Continue practicing by aiming for different distant objects. While practicing, occasionally take the boat intentionally off course by turning the wheel slightly toward port (left) or starboard (right), and then straighten out again on your object. With practice, any tendency to over-steer will diminish.

Gradual Turns on PlaneWhile operating on plane, there is minimal lag timeto steering response.A boater will need to be able to make gradualturns to avoid other boats, objects or hazards on a lake. Small movements in steering result in immediate action.The faster the boat moves through the water, the greater the forces are on the propulsion unit. Every boat is different,so it is important to become familiar with the boat’s handling characteristics.

Gradual Turns Steps are: (graphic on previous page)• Steering straight on plane at a distant object.

Select another distant object about 30 degrees off the bow or using dead ahead as 12:00 according to a clock.A 30 degree change is 11:00 to port or 1:00 to starboard according to the hands of a clock;

• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear, ready passengers, announce “turning” and then steer gradually to aim at the new target. Steer straight at the new target;

• Perform proper lookout and ensure all is clear. Announce “turning” and steer gradually back to previous target making a 30 degree turn in the opposite direction;

• As proficiency is developed, repeat sequence to 60 degree turns, which is a course change to port of 10:00 according to a clock or to starboard at 2:00. Then to 90 degrees, 120 degrees, 150 degrees and 180 degrees.

Gradual turns are slow and wide and require minimal throttle adjustments. Steering should be smooth with little over or under steering. The boat should not slide or cavitate during course alterations. Be sure to maintain a proper lookout throughout this maneuver. Practice doing turns both to the starboard and port all the way to 180 degree turns.

Sharp Turns on PlaneIt’s important to learn your boat’s handling and performance characteristics. Cavitation from too sharp and quick a turn can result in loss of propulsion and control. You must maintain a firm grip on the steering wheel, position your feet shoulder width apart, brace yourself and adjust your balance to the momentum the boat will create. Announce to your passengers to maintain a firm grip, brace and balance before attempting these maneuvers.

Sharp turns may be used for many reasons such as avoiding an obstruction in the water, or just to retrieve an object blown out of the boat, such as a hat. A sharp turn would also be used to quickly return to a passenger who fell overboard. This will be discussed further in the man overboard (MOB) recovery section of this manual. They may also be needed to make course adjustmentson a busy boat traffic day. Practice the turns by starting with your wide gradual turns and make them tighter and tighter.

When the turns become so sharp that the hull begins to slide or the propeller starts to cavitate, then the limit of sharp turns has been reached and a decrease in the throttle must be applied to make the turns sharper and more efficient. The turns may cause the boat to naturally decrease speed. The really sharp turns require a decrease in the throttle by the operator to safely perform the task and once the turn is complete, to increase the throttle back to minimum planing RPM. Both hands on the wheel may be needed to complete this skill because of the plowing effect and the force of water against boat and propeller. The goal is to safely carve the turn without the boat sliding or cavitating.

Sharp Turns Steps are:• Steering straight on plane at a distant object. Select

another distant object about 30 degrees off the bow. Using dead ahead as 12:00 according to the hands of a clock, a 30 degree change is 11:00 to port or 1:00 to starboard;

• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear, ready passengers, announce “turning,” reduce the throttle(if needed) and then steer quickly to aim at the new target. Return to minimum planing RPM and steer straight at the new target;

Turns

Distant Object 60° off the bow

Distant Object Dead Ahead

To performa sharp turn, ensure course is clear of boatsand hazards and all passengers are ready. Announce “turning,” reduce throttle if needed, change course andaim for distant object. As proficiency is increased, gradually increase the sharpness of the turns.

Distant Object 60° off the bow

Distant Object Dead Ahead

To perform a gradual turn,look all around you, checking that course is clear of boatsand hazards. Make sure all passengers are ready. Announce “turning,” change course and aim for distant object.Steer straight toward the object.

Distant Object

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Stops

Stopping Under ControlWe have learned that boats do not have brakes, just another reason we don’t drive them like a car. All boats when underway gather momentum and that momentum may be hard to slow or stop depending on the hull design, draft, speed and environmental conditions. A displacement hull pushes water which continuously wants to slow the boat; however a large, heavy ship has a lot of momentum and may take a lot of power in reverse to stop. A large ship at cruising speed may take up to seven miles to come to a complete stop; you don’t want to get in its way!

A small boat may be slowed or stopped by decreasing throttle, shifting into neutral or even shifting into reverse and adding throttle if necessary. A simple decrease in throttle may slow the boat’s headway enough for most situations. In an urgency stop, we will have to stop all headway as quickly as we can, shifting into reverse and using a good amount of throttle to affect our stop. If you need to slow or stop while in planing mode, just the action of coming off plane and transitioning to displacement mode will quickly slow the boat as it settles down into the water. Try to get into the mindset of using only as much power as needed to get the job done.

Coasting Stop from PlaneThis stop is a slow, comfortable easy stop when there is no urgency or reason to stop quickly. The most common situation for this stop is slowing down near a bend or blind spot in a river or channel to wait on boating traffic or approaching a no wake zone. In this course, the coasting stop will be used when changing boat operators. While onplane and steering straight, reduce the throttle to idle speed gradually and then shift into neutral. Allow the boat to coast, paying attention to how the boat reacts. The larger the boat— the more distance is needed to stop. If heading into the wind or current, less distance is needed to stop.Steering may be reduced or lost when decreasing the throttle too quickly. While coasting in neutral, steer straight with rudder effect only. Finish the maneuver with a standard stop.Coasting Stop Steps are: (graphic on right)• Steering straight in planing mode at minimum

planing RPM, perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear;

• Make sure passengers are ready, announce “coming down,” decrease the throttle to idle speed and then shift into neutral;

• Continue coasting in neutral and keeping bow straight by steering with rudder effect only;

• Shift into reverse idle speed to complete stop, and steer to keep the bow straight;

• Use boater’s eye to determine the instant the boat is stopped and shift into neutral.

• Perform proper lookout and ensure all is clear, ready passengers, announce “turning,” reduce the throttle (if needed) and steer quickly back to previous target making a 30 degree turn in the opposite direction; return to minimum planing RPM;

• As proficiency is developed, repeat sequence to 60 degree turns — that is a course change to port at 10:00 or to starboard at 2:00. Then to 90 degrees, 120 degrees, 150 degrees and 180 degrees. Be prepared to decrease the throttle at 90 degrees, 120 degrees, 150 degrees and 180 degrees to make these sharper turns and then return to minimum planing RPM when new heading has been attained.

The pinwheel maneuver can be practiced by turning in large circles to the starboard or port at determinedminimum planing RPMs, and slowly making the circles tighter and tighter. Decrease the throttle as needed.

Figure 8s are another way to practice turns as well as crossing waves and wakes. (Refer to crossing wakes and waves section in this manual.)

Avoidance TurnsAn avoidance turn is used when the boat operator sees an object or other hazard in the water dead ahead and must take action to miss this object. This action allows the boat to miss the object thus preventing a collision from occurring.This maneuver is a series of turns that prevents the boat from hitting the object by moving the hull away from the object.We must remember that when we turn the boat, the pivot point is forward and the stern swings away from the direction of the turn. The action of this first turn away from the object will steer the bow away, but will swing the stern towards the object.Now, there is a good chance the object will be impacted by the hull or worse yet, will be hit by the lower unit and prop.This action is typical of a novice boater thinking that he will just turn away from the object. This first turn must immediately be followed up by an aggressive turn in the opposite direction which will shift the stern’s direction away from the object.The two turns should be about 45 degrees with the second turn following the first turn very quickly. The actual amount ofwheel that should be turned is dependent on the steering system on that particular boat — how many turns the steering has lock to lock. This maneuver, if performed correctly, will prevent any contact with an object. When looking behind you, the wakewill look like you just did an “S” turn.

This skill will be practiced slowly and only as the student gains proficiency will the maneuver be performed at minimum planing RPM and closer to the floating object. Do not exceed minimum planing RPM!

Avoidance Turn Steps are:• Steering straight at minimum planing RPM, an object

is observed dead ahead (floating object is placed by the instructor — such as a small buoy or Type IV PFD);

• Determine if object is too close for a stopping maneuver;

• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear, announce to passengers to “hold on”;

• Announce “turning” and swerve the bow to anapproximate 45 degree turn away from the object when the boat is within 6 boat lengths from the object;

• When the boat has turned approximately 45 degrees away from the object, immediately turn the wheel back towards the object. This will swing the stern away from the object. Do not change the speed at any time during this maneuver;

• Practice this turn from both port and starboard directions;

• As proficiency is gained, practice at closer distances.

Turns

To perform a coasting stop, announce “coming down.”

Decrease the throttle to idle speed.

Shift into neutral. Continue coasting several seconds keeping bow straight until stern wave passes.

Shift to reverse idle to complete stop.

Use boater’s eye to assure boat has stopped. Shift into neutral.

To perform an avoidance turn, announce “hold on” then “turning.”

Swerve the bow about 45° away from the object.

Immediately turn the wheel back towards the object. This will swing the stern away.

10 11

To cross a large wake, ensure course is clear of boats and hazards. Ready passengers, announce “wake.”

Reduce throttle. Adjust course to cross at a 45 degree angle. When clear, return to course and speed.

This stop is for stopping the boat more quickly than the coasting stop while still keeping the bow straight. The most common situation for this stop may be when a hazard is in the water dead ahead and boat traffic is on the side which prevents steering around the hazard. While steering straight, quickly decrease the throttle to idle and then neutral.

It is important to avoid the stern wave from coming over the transom of the boat when you are quickly decreasing throttle to forward idle. Look behind the boat for the stern wave. If your transom is lower than the wave, increase throttle to allow the wave to dissipate before decreasing throttleback to forward idle. When the stern wave has safely passed underneath the boat, shift into neutral and finish the stop.Caution must be observed to ensure the stern wave passes underneath the boat. If the transom is low, this wave could swamp the boat and may result in a stability issue, or at least wet feet. The stern wave may also cause the boat to surge forward and the boat may veer off course. Coast in neutral, steering straight with rudder effect only and count to five.

Center the wheel and shift into reverse and increase the throttle until stopped. Maintain bow control. (Be aware of stern wave.) Steering may be reduced or lost when decreasing the throttle too quickly.

Urgency Stop Steps are: (graphic on bottom left)• Steering straight in planing mode at minimum planing

RPM, perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear;• Make sure passengers are ready, announce

“coming down,” quickly decrease the throttle to idle;

• Watch the stern wave, add throttle as needed to avoid the stern wave swamping the boat. When the stern wave has safely passed, shift into neutral;

• Steering straight with rudder effect only, count to five;

• Shift into reverse and increase the throttle. Steer to keep the bow straight;

• Use boater’s eye to determine the instant the boat is stopped and shift into neutral.Emergency Stop from Plane

An emergency stop is performed only when unexpected circumstances demand immediate action. This skill will be practiced slowly at first. As the student gains proficiency, the maneuver will be performed at minimum planing RPM and closer to the floating object. Do not exceed minimum planing RPM! At minimum planing RPM while steering straight, an object is observed in the water. Turn the bow sharply 90 degrees away from the object and immediately decrease the throttle to forward idle. Observe and avoid the stern wave and then shift into neutral. Care should be takenwhile performing this maneuver — not only the risk of losing steering control exists, but also the possibility of having the boat’s stern wave come over the transom, swamping the boat.

Stops

Urgency Stop from Plane

Boat Handling in Waves and Wakes

To perform an emergency stop, announce “hold on,” “turning” and “coming down.” Turn the bow 90° away from the object.

Immediately decrease throttle toforward idle.

Watch the stern wave and avoid before shifting into neutral.

Emergency Stop Steps are: (graphic on bottom right, previous page)• Steering straight at minimum planing RPM, an object

is observed dead ahead;• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear;

announce to passengers to “hold on”;• Announce “turning and coming down” then turn

the bow sharply 90 degrees away from the object;• Immediately decrease the throttle rapidly to forward

idle. Note: be sure to pay attention to decreasing the throttle to avoid the potential of accidentally putting it into neutral or reverse gear!

• Observe and avoid the stern wave by increasing throttle to allow wave to dissipate and safely pass underneath the boat. Decrease throttle back to forward idle and then shift into neutral;

• Assess distance of the boat to the object;• Practice this turn from both port and starboard;• As proficiency is gained, practice at closer distances.

Crossing Wakes and WavesA boat operator needs to be aware of waves created by boats (wakes) and waves created by the wind. Gentle breezes create ripples in the water. As winds get stronger, they will create small, closely spaced waves on small bodies of water commonly referred to as chop. As wind continues to get stronger, waves will begin to crest or curl over. Learning how to approach waves takes practice and experience.Operating in open water, a boat operator will encounter waves and wakes from other boats that vary in size.Crossing wakes head-on or on the beam is not the best practice for the boat or for passengers. Large yachts, barges and commercial vessels typically produce a very large wake. A boat operator must avoid crossing a large wake at a high rate of speed so as not to launch the boat into the air and put all passengers and the boat in serious danger.

Steps to cross a large wake are: (graphic below)• Steering straight at minimum planing

RPM, a large wake is observed ahead;• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is

clear, ready passengers and announce “wake”;• Steer to cross at a 45 degree angle and decrease

throttle;• When clear of wake(s), perform lookout and return

to course and minimum planing RPMs.Steps to cross small or moderate wakes are:• Steering straight at minimum planing

RPM, a moderate wake is observed ahead;• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is

clear, ready passengers and announce “wake”;• Steer to cross at a slight angle (less than 45 degrees)

and adjust throttle if needed;• When clear of wake(s), perform lookout and return

to course and minimum planing RPMs.

1

2

3

4

5

Shift to reverse and increase throttle. Steer to keep bow straight.

12 13

To perform an urgency stop, announce “coming down.”

Quickly decrease the throttle to idle speed.

Watch the stern wave andavoid before shifting into neutral.

Shift into neutral. Count to five.

Use boater’s eye to assure boat has stopped. Shift into neutral.

WINDWIND

Ferry to port — stern-to-wind:Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear long enough to offset leeway.

WIND WIND

Ferry to starboard — stern-to-wind:Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear long enough to offset leeway.

WIND WIND WIND WIND

Boat Handling in Wind hold position (prevent leeway) and maintain an effective ferry

14 15

The ferrying stern-to-wind skill should not be performed if waves are large enough to splash aboard over the stern. This course presumes a larger boat with adequate freeboard astern, and operating in calm to light breeze conditions.Any amount of water coming aboard over the transom must be avoided. If this is occurring, then the conditions of wind and waves are too great! Do not ferry stern-to-wind.

Ferry to starboard — bow-to-wind:Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear long enough to maintain steering and offset leeway.

Ferry to port — bow-to-wind:Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear long enough to maintain steering and offset leeway.

Weathervane EffectWind pushes a drifting boat’s bow faster than the stern. The bow of a drifting boat will swing downwind while the stern will lie closer to the wind. This is called the weathervane effect.

As a boat drifts downwind, the boat’s drag through the water slows it down. At the stern, the drag of the engine (outdrive and prop) may cause the stern to drift more slowly than the bow. Also, the stern is heavier than the bow and sits lower in the water. The bow has less to drag through the water and, depending on hull design, may also have greater windage. The wind, therefore, blows the bow more quickly than the stern.

When putting the stern to-the-wind, the weathervane effect assists. When putting the bow to-the-wind, you must work against the weathervane effect.

It is important to note that in open water with waves, putting the stern to the wind may cause waves to wash over the stern, swamping the boat. The amount of wind and waves a boat can safely take on the stern will vary by boat design.

Ferrying and Ferry Angle in WindFerrying is a technique that uses the wind (or current) as an advantage to help move a boat sideways. Understanding the forces involved in ferrying is important to avoid fighting against these forces.

Positioning a boat at an angle to the wind causes the wind to hit the side of the boat. The resulting wind pressure (windage) on the side of the boat pushes the boat sideways. Wind on the port side pushes the boat to starboard, and wind on the starboard pushes the boat to port. Engines are used to

angle. The angle of the boat is very important. Too little angle causes the technique to be ineffective. Too much angle causes loss of steering control and becomes a leeway drift.Steps to ferry to starboard — bow-to-wind are:(graphic bottom left)• Determine wind direction and position the boat bow-to-

wind (near a fixed object and the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);

• Ferry to starboard: set the wheel to the right (angle the boat between 30-45 degrees), shift into forward;

• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired ferry angle with the wind slightly on the port side and steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;

• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to offset leeway;

• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement: steer bow back into the wind using some wheel to the left, shift into forward until bow-to-wind.

Steps to ferry to port — bow-to-wind are:(graphic below)• Determine wind direction and position the boat bow-to-

wind (near a fixed object and the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);

• Ferry to port: set the wheel to the left (angle the boat between 30-45 degrees), shift into forward;

• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired ferry angle with the wind slightly on the starboard side and steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;

• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to offset leeway;

• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement: steer bow back into the wind using some wheel to the right, shift into forward until bow-to-wind.

Steps to ferry to port — stern-to-wind are:(graphic below)• Determine wind direction and use weathervane

effect to position the boat stern-to-wind; (This maneuvershould be started near a fixed object; the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);

• Ferry to port: set the wheel to the left (angle the boat between 30–45 degrees), shift into reverse;

• Stay in reverse long enough to acquire the desired ferry angle with the wind slightly on the starboard side and steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;

• Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to offset leeway;

• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:pull stern back into the wind using some wheel to the right, shift into reverse until stern-to-wind.

Steps to ferry to starboard — stern-to-wind are:(graphic below)• Determine wind direction and use weathervane effect

to position the boat stern-to-wind (maneuver should bestarted near a fixed object; the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);

• Ferry to starboard: set the wheel to the right (angle the boat between 30–45 degrees), shift into reverse;

• Stay in reverse long enough to acquire the desired ferry angle with the wind slightly on the port side and steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;

• Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to offset leeway;

• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:pull stern back into the wind using some wheel to the left, shift into reverse until stern-to-wind.

Holding Station in WindHolding station in the wind means staying in the same position over the bottom, despite what the wind is doing to the boat. This skill is basically the same as ferrying except the intent is to avoid moving sideways while also avoiding downwind movement. The challenge is to use ferrying skills to keep the ferry angle so minimal that the boat does not inadvertently ferry off station.

Steps to holding station — bow-to-wind are:(graphic on next page)• Determine wind direction and position the

boat bow-to-wind;• Hold station for several minutes maintaining

boat alignment with wind direction, avoid ferrying;

• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to allow steering to maintain course and offset leeway;

• Maintain a proper lookout.

Steps to ferry to port — bow-to-current are:(graphic below)• Determine current direction and position the boat

bow- to-current (maneuver should be started near a fixed object; the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);

• Ferry to port: set the wheel to the left (angle the boat up to 30 degrees in strong current and up to 45 degrees in light current), shift into forward;

• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired ferry angle with the current slightly on the starboard side and steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;

• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to offset current;

• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:steer bow back into the current using some wheel to the right, shift into forward until bow-to-current.

Boat Handling in Current

Holding Station in CurrentHolding station in the current means staying in the same position over the bottom, despite what the current is doing to the boat. This skill is basically the same as ferrying except the intent is to avoid moving sideways while also avoiding down-current movement. The challenge is to use ferrying skills to keep the ferry angle so minimal that the boat does not inadvertently ferry off station.

Steps to holding station — bow-to-current are:(graphic below)• Determine current direction and position the

boat bow-to-current;• Hold station for several minutes maintaining

boat alignment with current direction, avoid ferrying;

• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to offset current;

• Maintain a proper lookout.

Warning: Holding station with your stern to five knots of current is just like backing up at five knots with no current. Most boat’s sterns are not designed to withstand the current piling up on their transom. This piling up of water will cause flooding with possible swamping or capsizing. A boat’s bow is designed to ride up and slice through waves and currents. This makes bow-to-current ferrying and holding station very easy to perform with better control.

Boat Handling in Wind

Boat Handling in Current

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Steps to holding station, stern-to-wind:(graphic on right)• Determine wind direction and use weathervane effect

to position the boat stern-to-wind;• Hold station for several minutes maintaining

boat alignment with wind direction, avoid ferrying;

• Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to allow steering to maintain course and offset leeway;

• Maintain a proper lookout.The holding station, stern-to-wind skill should not be performed if waves are large enough to splash aboard over the stern. This course presumes a larger boat with adequate freeboard astern, and operating incalm to light breeze conditions. Any amount of water coming aboard over the transom must be avoided.If this is occurring, then the conditions of wind and waves are too great!

Holding station bow-to-wind: shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear long enough to allow steering and offset leeway.

Holding station stern-to- wind: shift between reverse and neutral, staying ingear long enough to allow steering and offset leeway.

WIND WIND

Current is the flow of water. In a straight section of river,the current is generally strongest where the water is deepest, and weakens toward the shore, as the bottom rises to impede it. Near shore, weak countercurrents may flow. Current strengthens where shorelines bottleneck (Venturi effect).

Current TermsSet — the direction of a current’s flowDrift — the speed of a current’s flow

(one knot = one nautical mile per hour)

Ferrying in CurrentSteps to ferry to starboard — bow-to-current are:(graphic on right)• Determine current direction and position the boat

bow- to-current (maneuver should be started near a fixed object; the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);

• Ferry to starboard: set the wheel to the right (angle the boat up to 30 degrees in strong current and up to 45 degrees in light current), shift into forward;

• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired

ferry angle with the current slightly on the port side and steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;

• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just long enough to offset current;

• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:steer bow back into the current using some wheel to the left, shift into forward until bow-to-current.

MAN OVERBOARD! STARBOARD!

HOLD ON! TURNING!

ABEAM. STARBOARD.

40’.

10’.

5’.

GOT HIM. MOTOR OFF!

Emergencies and Rescues

Retrieving a Person From OverboardBeing able to rescue yourself and others is a fundamental boating skill in any on-water program. The same should apply to on-water powerboating courses. Having the proper rescue equipment on board and practicing how to use it is very important before any emergency occurs.

In the case of a person falling overboard, the priority is to get the boat back to the person as quickly as possible.Coordination among everyone on the boat is important to a successful rescue. Someone shouts “man-overboard port, starboard or astern” while simultaneously throwing aType IV PFD to the person. Keeping a visual on the person and pointing to the person in the water is a big aid to the boat operator. While all of these things are occurring, the boat operator calls out “hold on, turning,” decreases the throttle and turns sharply toward the person in the water.A simple reduced speed turn to circle back to the person is the quickest and most reliable.

An active person is able to assist with getting back on board the boat. Various boarding systems can be used such as a ladder, makeshift ladder or a line cleated at the bow and stern that reaches the water level where a person can walk up the line towards the bow of the boat. Assist the person as they climb on board the boat. Retrieve the Type IV PFD.

While approaching the person in the water, stay about 10 feet away at idle speed. With calm to light wind conditions, the boat can be pointed either bow-to-wind or stern-to-wind and holding station abeam to the person.Throw a line or reach with a boat pole to the active person. When the active person makes good contact with the line or pole, immediately shut off the engine(s) and pull the person to the boat.

A passive or unconscious person is beyond the scope of this training course because the operator or a crew member may need to enter the water to assist the person. Additional training and equipment is needed to perform these typesof rescues. Summon help by issuing a MAYDAY call on channel 16 VHF radio or dial 911 on a cell phone depending on the location and body of water.

18 19

Retrieving a person overboard steps are:(graphic on previous page)• Shout “man-overboard port, starboard or astern”

and throw a Type IV PFD to the person then point to the person in the water (these duties can be done by different crew members);

• Simultaneously, the boat operator will performproper lookout and if all is clear, ready passengers by announcing “turning” and decrease the throttle while turning sharply toward the overboard person;

• Approach the person 10 feet away at idle speed and hold station abeam to the person;

• Throw a line or reach with a pole to the person.When the person overboard has a firm grip on the line or pole, shut off engine(s);

• Pull person to the boat while setting up boarding system;

• Assist the person onboard the boat.

Heavy WeatherAs a rule, a prudent mariner should check the weather for the area prior to departure and periodically during the voyage.Trips should be postponed or canceled if the predicted weather and sea conditions are dangerous. The size, design and seaworthiness of the vessel should be determinedif planning to venture out in spite of the weather. More important is the training and experience of the crew and safety of any passengers or guests. Brief the crew on the situation to prepare them for what is expected. Assign duties, keep them occupied and get as much rest as possible when not on watch. Restrict movement around the boat, especially outside. Rig safety lines and harnesses for use on deck.

Know the boat and its equipment, especially its capabilities and limitations. Know where all equipment is and how to use it. Have the proper survival and lifesaving gear appropriate for the area and body of water. File a float plan. Have reliable

communications to call for help, like a marine VHF radio; not just a cell phone! Check that the distress signals, flares,are not expired and know how to use them. Is there an EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) onboard?Have a means to let someone know there is trouble and help is needed. Be able to take the search out of search and rescue!

There are many times when boaters just get caught in a changing weather pattern and it goes from bad to worse. What advice is there for them to survive the situation and get to port safely? Many books have been written about this and it would be impossible to even begin to cover that in this brief manual. To start, make sure everyone’s life jacket is securely fitted!

Trim the boat by distributing weight to ensure stability. Refer to the section in this manual covering boat trim. Close and double check that all hatches, ports and vents are water tight. Keep the water on the outside. Check the bilges and pump them dry. Secure all equipment and gear in a safe place where it will not slide or fly around. Ensure all deck gear such as small boats, kayaks or anything else topside is tied down with no chance for movement.Even the slightest bit of slack in a line will cause the object to shift with the rolling and pitching of the boat. This uncontrolled movement will shock load the line or strap until it breaks and the object gets loose. This may cause injury, extensive damage and may affect stability. The boat should always be ready for sea.

Every boat should have a good strong anchor that is sufficient for the size of the boat. It should be secured to the deck or in a forward locker readily available for deployment. The anchor should have a length of chainattached (equal to or greater than the length of the boat), and strong anchor line that is at least 7 to 10 times the depth of the water, when practical. Practice anchoring, it’s an art! Don’t just drop and pray it won’t drag. A sea anchor is a great device to help keep the boat in control if power is lost, as well as to position the boat’s bow to-the-wind and seas.

During bad weather, the simple and common sense rule in boating is just don’t go! History has shown that boaterssometimes don’t follow this basic concept, and go charging off to sea in conditions that a responsible boat operator has no business being in. So, be smart, don’t depart!

Glossary of Boating Terms and Phrases Abeam — Beside the boat, out to one side.

Avoidance (“S”) Turn — A series of turns used to avoid an object in the water directly ahead of you while underway at minimum planing speed. When completed correctly, the wake will resemble an “S.”

Boat Trim — The proper balance and stability of the boat when fully loaded with people and gear. Trim should be achieved by stowing all gear and placing passengers so the boat sits naturally without listing to either side. The bow and stern should sit naturally, not too high or low.

Cavitation — The sudden formation of tiny air or exhaust gas bubbles in the water caused by the rotation of the propeller resulting in a decrease in efficiency and an increase in engine RPM. This may cause loss of, or asignificant reduction in propulsion and potential damage to the prop. This is also known as ventilation.

Chine — The intersection of the hull where the sides meet the bottom.

Chop or Choppy — Short, steep waves, making for a rough, uncomfortable ride.

COLREGS or Rules of the Road — A general term used for the regulations governing vessels used to preventcollisions. The rules are officially called The International Regulations for the Prevention of Collisions at Sea (COLREGS) and the U.S. Inland Navigation Rules. They include application, steering and sailing rules, lighting, and sound signals.

Displacement Mode — A vessel at stop or moving at slow speed through the water with nearly all of the bottom of the hull in the water.

Directed Thrust — A means of steering a boat by turning to port or starboard and the discharge current created by the propeller “thrusts” the boat in that direction. The high pressure discharge current produced by the propeller is directed by turning the outboard engine or lower unit of an inboard/outboard with the steering wheel. This results in pushing the stern, quickly and effectively bringing the boat into a turn.

Emergency Stop — Designed to stop the boat quickly to avoid hitting an object in the water directly ahead of the boat while underway at planing speed. When sighting the object immediately ahead, turn sharply 90 degrees right or left, then quickly decrease the throttle to idle speed, then neutral.

Engine Stop Lanyard — A safety switch or lanyard with one end attached to the operator while underway and the other end connected to a switch mounted by the helm that activates the starting system. If the operator is ejected or the switch becomes disconnected, the engine will shut off. NSBC training operations require a safety switch or lanyard to be used while underway.

Ferry or Ferrying — A boating maneuver that allows the boat to travel sideways without gaining headway orlosing sternway. Angle the bow or stern of the boat into the wind or current towards the direction desired. By applying power and employing the correct angle to current or wind the boat will travel sideways.

Figure 8s — A maneuver to gain skill in making turns, adjusting throttle and crossing waves and wakes. Begin the figure 8 at minimum planing RPM and steer the boat into a big shape of an “8.” Each figure 8 will be smaller than the last “8.” As the “8s” get smaller, you will need to decrease throttle and adjust throttle to cross the wakes that you have created and to prevent cavitation. Stop the maneuver when the water gets too choppy, the engine cavitates or the turns are so tight the gunnels are at the waterline.Give-Way Vessel — The vessel that must take action in a crossing or overtaking situation. The give-way vessel must alter course and or speed to avoid a collision.

Heading — The direction the boat is travelling, may be given in compass degrees.

Helm — The boat’s wheel or other steering gear. A boat’s steering station.

Holding Station — A boating maneuver to keep the boat stationary allowing the air and water to flow by it. By applying enough power to counter the wind or current, the boat will remain in one place staying stationary.

Inboard/Outboard — A combination design where the boat has the engine installed in the hull like an inboard powered boat, and the drive unit outside the transom like an outboard engine.

Leeway — The downwind drift of a boat through the water. Sideways drift of a boat caused by the wind.

Maximum Displacement RPM — The engine RPM at the upper end of displacement mode. It is the point just before the bow starts to rise and the boat begins plowing.

Minimum Planing RPM — The lower end of planing mode. It is the point just on plane when the boat levels off and before speed increases. Throttle should be adjusted to maintain this desired speed. If throttle is reduced too much, the boat will lose speed and the bow will rise, returning to plowing mode.

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MOB — Acronym for man overboard.

Pinwheel — A maneuver to discover the turning capabilities of your boat. Begin the pinwheel at minimum planing RPM and make large gradual circles either clockwise or counterclockwise. Each circle will be smaller than the last circle. As the circles get smaller and smaller, you will need to decrease RPMs to prevent sliding and cavitation. Stop the maneuver when the water gets too choppy, the engine cavitates or the turns are so tight the gunnels are at the waterline.

Pivot Point — As a boat turns, it pivots on a specific point which is located along the centerline of the boat somewhere between the bow and stern. The pivot point location will vary in boats depending on hull design, trim, and water conditions and boat speed. When a boat is in forward gear making headway, the typical pivot point is about one third back from the bow.

Planing Mode or On Plane — When a boat reaches enough speed to overcome the bow wave and ride up on the water with much of the forward hull out of the water.

Stand-On Vessel — The stand-on vessel shall maintain course and speed in order for the give-way vessel to properly predict its track and take the appropriate action to avoid collision.

Stern Wave — A vertical disturbance of water from the boat’s wake that is moving toward the stern. Whenstopping the boat, care must be taken to ensure this wave does not come over the transom.

Tilt/Trim Switch — A switch, at the helm, usually found on the engine shift handle which raises and lowers the outboard engine or lower unit on an inboard/outboard.This is used to raise the engine out of the water for servicing or to put the boat on a trailer. It may also be used to trim the bow up or down for better trim and efficiency.Transom — The horizontal panel at the back of the boat.

Trim Tabs — Metal flaps or planes that are mounted on the transom, and are adjusted up and down by a switch at the helm console. Trim tabs help trim the boat side-to-side or by bringing the bow down.

Venturi Effect —The phenomenon that occurs when a fluid is forced through a narrow section, resulting in a pressure decrease and a velocity increase.

Wake — The track of disturbed water created by a moving boat.

Weathervane effect — The tendency of the bow of a drifting boat to turn and point downwind.

© 2013 National Safe Boating Council