Fabric and Cutting Instructions for 2 Place Mats:

Any 2—6-1/2” unfinished block

1/4 Yard Red Print fabric: Cut 1—2” x WOF strip Cut 1—3-1/2” x WOF strip Sub cut the strip into 2—3-1/2” x 12-1/2” rectangles and 2—3-1/2” squares

1/4 Yard White Stripe fabric: Cut 1—4” x WOF strip Sub cut a 3-1/2” x 12-1/2” unit from one end Sub cut the remaining strip in half to create 2—2” x 28-1/2” rectangles Cut 1—3-1/2” x WOF strip Sub cut the strip into 3—3-1/2” x 12-1/2” rectangles

1/2 Yard Black fabric: Cut 3—2” x WOF strips Cut 120” of Bias Binding

1/2 Yard of 40” Wide Backing Fabric

Note: WOF = width of fabric

Place Mats with Napkin Band & Silverware Pocket

Designed by Penny Haren

Finished Size: 12” x 18”

Piecing the Four-Patches1. Sew a red 2” x WOF strip and a black 2” x WOF strip together along the length of the fabric. Trim the

selvages from the ends of the strip set. Cut the strip set into 16—2”-wide segments for the four-patches. They should measure 2” x 3-1/2”.

2. Layer 2—2”-wide segments right sides together. Alternate the fabrics so the red is laying on the black and the black is laying on the red. Sew the segments together to form a four-patch. Make a total of 8 four-patches. The four-patches should measure 3-1/2” square.

Piecing the Rail Fence SashingsSew a black 2” x WOF strip and a white stripe 2” x 28-1/2” rectangle together along the length of the fabric to make a strip set. Trim the selvages from the ends of the strip set. Make a total of 2 strip sets. Cut each strip set into 4—6-1/2” segments for a total of 8 rail fence sashing units. The units should measure 3-1/2” x 6-1/2”.

Piecing the BlocksSew a rail fence sashing unit to opposite sides of the 2—6-1/2” blocks, aligning the white strip with the block. Sew a four-patch to opposite ends of the remaining 4 rail fence sashing units. Align the black and white fabrics and the red and black fabrics. Sew the pieced units to the remaining 2 sides of the blocks to make the place mat center.

Adding the Silverware Pocket1. Fold the red 3-1/2” x 12-1/2” strip in half, wrong sides together, so it measures 3-1/2” x 6-1/4”. Place the

folded strip on top of the white stripe 3-1/2” x 12-1/2” rectangle, matching the raw edges of the pocket to the bottom raw edges of the rectangle. Pin the fabrics together so they can be sewn to the place mat center as one unit. Make a total of 2 silverware pocket units.

2. Place the silverware pocket unit on the right edge of the place mat center, right sides together. The raw edge of the left side of the pocket will be caught in the seam. The right raw edge will be caught in the seam when the binding is attached. Sew and press the seam toward the place mat center.

3. Leave the pocket “flapping in the wind” so that the machine quilter can move it as she is quilting.

Adding the Napkin Holder1. Fold the red 3-1/2” square, right sides together, so it measures 1 ¾” x 3 ½”. Sew along the 3 ½” width of

the square to form a tube. Turn the tube right side out and press. Make a total of 2 tubes.

2. Place the tube 5 ½” up from the bottom edge of a white strip 3 ½” x 12 ½” rectangle. Match the raw edges of the napkin holder to the side raw edges of the white stripe fabric. Pin the fabrics together so they can be sewn to the place mat center as one unit. Make a total of 2 napkin holder units.

3. Place the napkin holder unit on the left edge of the block, right sides together. The right side raw edge of the tube will be caught in the seam. The left raw edge will be caught in the seam when the binding is attached. Press the seam toward the place mat center.

4. Leave the napkin holder “flapping in the wind” so the machine quilter can move it as she is quilting.

5. Layer the place mat top, batting and backing together. Quilt as desired. If you choose to curve the corners, a bias binding is recommended.

Curved CornersThe corners of these place mats were curved with the Creative Grids™ Curved Corner Cutter.

Do NOT cut this curve until AFTER the place mats are machine quilted. You may mark the curve on the place mats so the machine quilter knows where it will be trimmed later. It is easier for the machine quilter to attach a straight edge rather than a curved edge to the frame.