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Content
Acknowledgement
About The Scheme
Objective Of Scheme
Component Of Scheme
Craft Knowledge: Staple Embroidery Craft
Aims of Project
Sourcing
Design Segment
Product Development
Venue Of Workshop
Investigation Snaps
Sketches Of Prototype
Photograph Of Prototype
List Of Prototype
Costing
Designers View
Design Development
Conclusion
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Performance cum Achievement Report
Designer Profile
Acknowledgment
My sincere thanks to all persons who were involved and made this workshop successful
and without their proper support and guidance journey could not be fruitful.I am
thankful to O/o DC Handicraft for its mega project in various stages and feels grateful
for this design and technical development workshop. It comes as a launching pad for
the artisans to set the traditional skill on the right track.
And last but not the least I want to give special thanks to the artisans of
SUKHNAGARI STAPLE EMBROIDERYIC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA
BUDGAM, (J&K) for their lively attitude towards their commitment for learning the
craft and workshop.
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ABOUT THE SCHEME.
It is a model project of the office of Development Commissioner Handicraft, Ministry of
Textile, Govt. of India for self sustain development of handicrafts through community
empowerment. The vision is establishment of a vibrant and member control community
based enterprises with the overriding objectives to enable artisans to take up economicactivities for sustainable development through a collection mode. Under the project
artisans are empowered to become active entrepreneurs-cum-primary stake holders in
the process of development linking them to domestic and overseas market.
AmbedkarHastshilpVikasYojna aims at promoting Indian handicrafts by developing
artisans clusters into professionally managed and self reliant community enterprise on
the principles of affective member participation and mutual cooperation. The thrust of
the scheme is on a projected need based integrated approach for craft persons landing
their empowerment
The main objective of the scheme -
To organize artisans cluster into Self Help Groups or co-operative societies with a
view to enabling them to take up economic activity for sustainable development
through a collective mode.
To empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary stake
holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible platform for
easy access to domestic and overseas markets.
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To upgrade artisans skill through appropriate design and technology intervention
to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and equipment to produce value
added items.
To provide adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and productivity
and to enable artisans access to a larger market segments, both domestic &
international.
To ensure effective collective participation of all members involved in production
and marketing process for optimal growth in human resources, production, business
and income.
The components of the scheme
Social: development awareness on self help and community participative
organization of self help groups empowerment of women through TAC,
inculcation of leadership qualities, organizations behavior and management,
formation of economical viable enterprise.
Technological: increasing productivity, product and design development,
standardization of product, technological up gradation for capacity building,
quality control measures with well defined specification, effective packaging, and
networking through IT.
Marketing: Assimilation of market intelligence, product identification as per
market segmentation, appropriate market and product mix, building up of
business enterprise, relationship management of assisting market outlets, test
marketing through financial exhibition/fairs, effective publicity through
appropriate media mix.
Financial: pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and credit and
external through financial institution and funding organization).Welfare: Health
package insurance, group insurance, work shed, housing-cum-work shed,
functional literacy and health nutrition and sanitation, communal harmony.
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Craft Knowledge: Staple Embroidery Craft
Staple Embroidery Craftis often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides
of the fabric each side having a different color. There is no wrong side. The same design
is produced in different colors on both sides. This is purely hand based embroidery
done with needle, thereby called Staple Embroidery Craft. Since its cost of making isquite high so it is comparatively costlier. But saying that one cannot take away the real
ethnic look and quality of embroidery that this type has. This type of embroidery is
more thin and clear as it is done by hand. Full credit goes to Kashmir art and artists
who make this tough task look easy and cope up with high production quantity demand
in time. This art true lies in them.
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Process:-
The Staple Embroidery Craft refers to a type of hand embroidery, traditionally doneonpashmina hand woven woolen, Tosha fabric. It employs extremely finestitches applied
very close to each other creating intricatepatterns. The stitches are executed using
coloured threads and afine steel needle.While there are many different stitches used for
rendering thesepatterns, the Staple Embroidery Craft predominantly employs thestitchwhich is a kind of fine couching stitch with a reinforcing stitch laidover it. Also
uses the darn stitch and stem stitch. The button holestitch, herring bone stitch, chain
stitch, satin stitch and knotstitches are also used but in limited proportions. This
embroiderycraft from Kashmir is distinctive because of the predominant useof this
stitch, both in the outlining and the filling up of themotif and even in the rendering of
petals and leaves.
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The Staple Embroidery Craftis traditionally used to ornament eitherthe edges with
trailing borders, or placed on the front panels orsometimes the entire surfaceofkurtas, with small buties and netlikepatterns. In fact, the Jamawar is a type of highly
elaborate, alloverpattern where the ground colour of the pashmina fabric is notvisible
at all. The typical motifs used in such high value embroideryare traditional almond
motifs (badamdaar) or floral patterns of Iris orrose motifs.
Aims of Project
The aims and object of the trust to carry out the development of Handicraft and undersuch activities to give encouragement to the so much weaker, poor, needy disregard and
down trodden peoples and to increase their life style. And to carry out their own life by
himself and to increase their development self defense Trust and encouragement so that
they can get the target of their development (sustainable development) and they can
found stability. It is always found that un-necessary expenses are to be carried out
regarding the sequences and traditions which occasion carried out by the people,
religious programs, marriages and other Type occasion program then they can collect
much more amount (thrift and credit) and such amount can use in the development
works and can get the sustainable development.
Scheme sectioned by Government of India, Ministry of Textiles, and Office of the
Development Commissioner (Handicraft), New Delhi is organized by SUKHNAGARI
STAPLE EMBROIDERYIC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K)After the
base line survey within these area carried out and during the group meeting, discussion
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and after visit of this region it is found from the talking with main people of this region
that even after having good knowledge many people regarding Handicraft specially
Staple Embroidery Craft, the peoples of this region are engaged in preparing the
products which are in demand for the domestic market. By the analysis of survey it is
very much hard make the development of Handicraft, provide the training, guidance
and energetic circumstances tools and techniques with new design developments
,equipment has been provided during the workshop. For the high quality it is necessary
the training and guidance and exertion. For the successful conducting of the Design
Workshop with the experience of trust and with the support of group working this trust
has carried out awareness of the public and encouraged to the people.
Sourcing
Fabric, Embellishments, material sourcing was an important task. The already existingFabric base used by the organization.
Better quality Fabric, threads that are smooth and have a softer & smoother appeal was
introduced to the organization. Needles, tracingsheets, Brush that must be used for
embellishment was also sourced. Most of these come from Delhi and Jammu where
there is a great manufacturing setup.
Some samples were also purchased from the showrooms of the two markets forcomparison and to educate the workers of the organization towards understanding
quality of design aesthetics, quality of workmanship, quality of Needle Work &
finishing l as well.
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The markets visited were DC Cloth Market, GandhinagarWool Market& New Wool
Market. The other markets visited were Vijay Market (Premnagar), Gangyal,
VivekanandaChowk, Satwari market and Nanak Nagar.
The directions for design ideations were then frozen.
An important step towards ideation was to first develop a sizing pattern for new
embroidered products so that they could be taken forward for easy production later
and also to grade them to different larger or smaller sizes. Simultaneously, new designs
were sketched, traced and put together for development.
Design Segment
The products developed can be categorized into the following:
A Based on markets:
i) Lower to mid marketproducts ii) Up market products
B Based on utility
I) Accessories ii) Home products
Above were the parameters for all ideations. Designs were divided catering to both the
markets and can be distinguished categorically based on design aesthetics and the
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amount & quality of work. This would directly relate to pricing, as price for raw
material and CMT of different products has been calculated accordingly.
Also, each product line has been designed as a collection, but only one prototype sample
has been realized. This has given the artisans a wide range of product portfolio and
based on their test marketing, they can be taken forward for SS/12 and AW/13.
Apart from the styles based on technique & product, they also are being suggested for
various market types as follows:
Ai / Bi (lower-mid Mkt product - Apparel Accessories)
Ai / Bii (lower-mid Mkt product - Home Product)
Aii / Bi (Upper Mkt Product - Apparel Accessories)
Aii / Bii (Upper Mkt Product - Home Product)
This has been done purely to focus on retail presentation of each product.
Product Development
Fabric:
Tosha
Wollenwool
Other Fabrics
Techniques:
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Tracing Work
Stitching Work
Embellishment Work
Materials Used:
Needles, pencil, threads in different colors, brush, sezer
Detailing Directions:
Simple Clean
Minimal
Products:
Assorted Single
With Some Coordinate
Venue of the Workshop : -
Village KawoosaKhalisa, J&K(India ).
The Clusters in the Area have been engaged with handicraft activity and have been
producing Quality goods and have been sincerely going on with this vacation. Technical
Guidance were to been offered. The almost Villages in Srinagar have cultural
background so it was easy to work with the villagers regarding design and technical
development workshop. Villages are Connectivity to the main town . But The
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Craftsman are suffering from difficulties of raw material and being the victims of
middleman ship. The new generation is getting away from the craft because of lack of
proper guidance about the craft and its growing future.
Date of the Workshop 6thSept. 2012 20thSept.2012 ( total days 15)
Photograph Of Workshop
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Investigation Snaps
Mr. Altaf Hussain (Deputy Director-DCH), Mr. Nissar ( Secretary Of Ngo- SukhnagAri Staple Embroidery Ic Ltd, Nowpora Kawoosa Budgam, (J&K)) With Designer
Praveen Chauhan and artisans where all the prototypes were checked and appreciated.
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Artisans showing their work and getting feedback from the
officials
PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-01
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
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DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-02
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-04
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
Dress
Material
SASE/PC/12-05
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-06
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
Dress
Material
SASE/PC/12-07
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-08
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
Dress
Material
SASE/PC/12-09
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-10
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Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial SASE/PC/12-11
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-12
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
DressMaterial
SASE/PC/12-13
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
Muflar SASE/PC/12-14
Photographs of the prototypes
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PRODUCT PRODUCTCODE
Muflar SASE/PC/12-15
Photographs of the prototypes
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LIST OF THE PROTOTYPES
DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP
IN STAPLE EMBROIDERY CRAFTCRAFT, DATED-06-09-2012 to 20-09-2012
PRODUCT NAME PRODUCT CODE PRICE/PCS. SIZES PAIR
01 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-01
1175/-
4.5 mtr 02
02 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-02
1175/-
4.5 mtr 02
03 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-03
1150/-
4.5 mtr 02
04 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-04 950/- 4.5 mtr 02
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05 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-05
1025/-
4.5 mtr 02
06 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-06
1250/-
4.5 mtr 02
07 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-07950/-
4.5 mtr 02
08 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-08
1150/-
4.5 mtr 02
09 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-09
950/-
4.5 mtr 02
10 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-10
1200/-
4.5 mtr 02
11 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-11
1250/-
4.5 mtr 02
12 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-12950/-
4.5 mtr 02
13 Dress Material SASE/PC/12-13
1150/-
4.5 mtr 02
14 Muflar SASE/PC/12-14
750/-
83x21 02
15 Muflar SASE/PC/12-15
800/-
83x21 02
TOTAL AMOUNT 15875/- Per Set
Costing
The costing for each product has been calculated with the following parameters :
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Raw Material Cost: Fabric,Threads,Needles,
Trim Cost: Embelishments ,Colurs
Stitching Cost : Sampling, Cutting & Making
Overheads : Stationary, Tracing Sheets, Conveyance &Expanses
The cost of each samples has been calculated Sept.arately.
Design Devlopment
Lower & Middle Markets:
Contonment Market, Satwari,Sanjay Nagar Market, and all adjoining areas.The
products sold are mostly apparel products comprising majorly of women accesories
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which are price sensitive and are never displayed as collections or as ensembles. The
assortments are mixed and carry a lot of variety. These are mostly picked from
wholesale dealers and sold at many stores. There is no individual identity in the store in
these areas. Similar products with similar price structure are available in all the stores
and there seems to be an aesthetic monotony & retard. The embellishment carried on
these apparel products is heavy. Nevertheless, design intervention could playa crucial
role in improving the quality and the aesthetic appeal of the products which do have a
potential without really disturbing the existing market, it's consumer base and
demands.The products are mostly in Cotton,Shiffon etc. with strong Nice Deisgns. .
The price ranges from Rs750/- to 1250/- (MRP)
The Upper Market:
Link Road, Gandhi Nagar, GoleMarket,RaghunathBazar.The product range includes
womensaccessories , mensaccessories , home furnishing items which are mostly Indian
and some western looks using hand crafted techniques.Stores like Bandhej(Satwari),Parijat (Nanak chowk), Raghunath Bazar (Yougal Sons), Vanza (specialists in
Hand Embroidery, MG Road), RamaKrishna, Coverups (Fun Republic) and other
small boutiques in Gandhi Nagar areas sell traditional Indian & Western decorative
pieces.
Conclusion
The 30 artisans has been proactive in it'scarft (Staple Embroidery Craft) sponsored byMinistry Of Textiles (Handicrafts),Govt. Of India,New Delhi has helped them towards
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looking at new concepts, better quality, new fabrics and material. The enthusiasm and
initiative taking strengths of the women help in executing the development of the
prototype.
The artisans could participated in many exhibitions and also explore the domestic retail
and export markets. Orders could easily be taken for working of Staple Embroidery
Craftspecially.
A step towards their own retailing at multibranded outlets in J&K has been forwarded
by identifying stores nd has a positive future. The Women folk regularly meet once in a
month & share the information.
The 15 days workshop Organised by SUKHNAGARI STAPLE EMBROIDERYIC
LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K).which keep their products or also
give sustainable orders for the good impression of the artisans.
Thanks.
Performance Cum Achievement Report
The Design and Technical Development Workshop was conducted on the Staple
Embroidery Craft from 6thSept. to 20thSept. 2012Organizedby SUKHNAGARI
STAPLE EMBROIDERYIC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K) after
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obtaining due approval from the office of the Development Commissioner
(Handicrafts). During the Project 30 artisans had participated.Mr.Praveen
Chauhanwere engaged as Designer. 15 (Fifteen) prototypes (02 sets) on Staple
Embroidery Craft were developed during the project and one set of prototype, as per
list enclosed and documents has been deposited with the Assistant Director O/o
Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), J&K and receipt obtained from the
Assistant Director O/o Development Commissioner (Handicrafts).
Designer Profile
Praveen Chauhan
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Empanelled Designer (NO-D-2/4(75)/DTW/ER/2010-11)O/o Development Commissioner (Handicraft)
Ministry Of Textile, (Govt.Of India).
Mobile no -09711923423, 09555525523E-mail [email protected]
PERSONAL PROFILE
A highly motivated individual with a passion for excellence and hardworking team player.
CAREER OBJECTIVE
Fashion Designer position with a dynamic fashion-forward company where I can apply my
unique combination of fashion design training and market knowledge and experience to
produce collections of fresh, beautiful, and marketable Design. As a result of studying and
working in the fashion industry, I am now ready to apply my formal education in design andfashion.
ACADEMIC QUALIFICATION
International Institute Of Fashion Designing. Pune, Maharastra
(B.Sc)
National Institute Of Fashion Technology Bangalore, Karnataka
A N S College (BIEC) Jahanabad, Bihar.
(12th Standard)
National Open School (CBSE) New Delhi.
(10th Standard)
WORK EXPERIENCE
Fashion Designer I worked as knitwear designer for high street knitwearsupplier. My role involves fashion trend researching, shapes and swatchesdesigning and sampling, technical specs, pattern cutting, yarns sourcing
Assistant Designer - collaboration for man and woman knitwears collections as
responsible for the graphics and technical drawings with Adobe Illustrator and
Photoshop. Database creation for the technical drawings of man knitwearcollections.
Stage on Fashion Design - ShahidAamir on back stage, where my models were
Katerinakaif,Anchal Kumar, Nikhil, Zulfi, Sahil, Jeniffor , Karan ,
RakeshBapat,Sayalibhagatetc for SUN CITY, Pune P.M.P.L (Export House) - I worked within a team of three the fashion knitwear
designers and was responsible for overall manufacturing technology. My roleinvolved communicating with manufactures, designing special knitting patterns tomeet style requirements and applying cutting theory.
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PROFFESIONAL EXPERIENCE
Design custom garments for clients.
Attend fashion shows and review garment magazines and manuals to analyze fashiontrends, predictions, and consumer preferences.
Sew together sections to form mockup or sample of garment or article, using sewing
equipment.
Direct and coordinate workers who draw and cut patterns, and construct sample or
finished garment.
Arrange for showing of sample garments at sales meetings or fashion shows.
Confer with sales and management executives, or clients regarding design ideas.
Examine sample garment on and off model, and modify design to achieve desired
effect.
Integrate findings of analysis and discussion, and personal taste and knowledge of
design, to originate design ideas.
Sketch rough and detailed drawings of apparel or accessories, and write
specifications, such as color scheme, construction, or material type.
Draw pattern for article designed, cut pattern, and cut material according to pattern,
using measuring and drawing instruments, and scissors.
RESPONSIBILITIES
Analyzed and researched fashion trends.
Obtained and reviewed samples of new textile products through attending trade
shows or visiting manufacturers.
Selected textiles including fabrics, fasteners and other materials.
Presented concepts to director and team.
Developed prototypes for fittings and adjustments.
Continuously developed new materials and techniques.
INDEPENDENT DESIGN PROJECT
Created a photograph essay titled Bharatas part of an assignment for B.A.G
Newsline Network Pvt. Ltd.
I have Designed Fest T-Shirt for tech-envision for CUSAT, Kerla university.
CURRENT DESIGN PROJECT Development going on for LAKME FASHION WEEK.
Development going on for VIBRANT FASHION WEEK.
SCHOLARSHIPS AND AWARDS
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Won Award for best Fashion designer in Pune Inter College Fashion Show.
Won First Prize in Annual Fashion Show Award ELIXIR in 2006 for INIFD
Won First Prize in Annual Fashion Show Award ELIXIR in 2007 for INIFD
Ranked 1st in a graphic design competition to redesign the logo and identity of YFE
(2009)
TECHNICAL SKILLS
MS Office
Corel Suit
Illustrator
Adobe Photoshop
PERSONAL DETAILS
Fathers Name Pramod Kumar Singh
Date of birth 1st Jan 1985
Languages Known Hindi, English
Marital Status Single
Religion Hindu
Nationality Indian
Date:
Place:
(PraveenChauhan)